Saturday, January 16th 2016
Resonance Vineyard and Maison Louis Jadot; Featured New Arrival: Vega Sicilia; Dupont-Tisserandot and Gevry-Chambertain; Spanish Case Deals; Von Winning; Marcel Deiss and Alsace Wines
Jadot’s Résonance Vineyard
USA debut in February
Jacques Lardiere made his name as winemaker for Maison Louis Jadot for 42 years. He is arguably the most important winemaker and personality in Burgundy in the last 20+ years and oversaw the production of more than 140 different wines from more than 100 different classified appellations around Burgundy and Beaujolais.
His new focus is on crafting Pinot Noir from the Résonance Vineyard in the Yamhill-Carlton region of Oregon. This dry-farmed, bio-dynamic vineyard covers 32 acres (19 acres planted) and holds some of the oldest rootstocks (non-grafted) in the Willamette Valley. Planted in 1981 in a mix of sedimentary deposits and ancient basaltic soils the site ranges from 250-450 feet in elevation and is south/southwest facing.
Arriving Friday, February 5th
Résonance Vineyard Pinot Noir, Yamhill-Carlton 2013 750ML ($69.95) $59 pre-arrival special
Wine Spectator 93 points “Light and focused, showing distinctive subtlety. A layer of crinkly tannins underlies a pulsing core of mineral-accented cherry and red berry flavors, hinting at cinnamon as the finish lingers gently.” HS
This is the only listing in the USA today!
Just a reminder about our current shipping specials during this season:
We offer flat rate shipping on any size single order / single shipment
-to Oregon for $17,
-Washington & Idaho for $20,
-and California for $25
These rates do not apply to orders held in storage here for any reason.
Multiple orders consolidated into one shipment do not qualify for flat rate shipping.
New Weekend – New Arrivals
From Vega Sicilia
Vega Sicilia Unico Gran Reserva, Ribera del Duero 2007 750ML ($379.95) $249 special
Wine Advocate 95 points, Wine Spectator 94 points “This harmonious red is balanced and deep, offering ripe plum and currant flavors, with black pepper, tobacco, licorice and mineral accents. Delivers plenty of structure, with well-integrated tannins and lively acidity. The wine remains graceful through the long, spicy finish. Drink now through 2027. 6,500 cases made.”TM
Vega Sicilia Tinto Valbuena 5, Ribera del Duero 2010 750ML ($159.95) $108 special
Wine Advocate 96 points “Since the 2010 harvest, they ferment plot by plot, and it shows. This Valbuena has almost 100 components in it, smaller lots, all of them corresponding to a plot of vines. It has all the signs of being one of the best vintages ever for this second wine from Vega Sicilia, mostly Tempranillo but with 5% Merlot that matured five months in 20,000-liter oak vats, 18 months in new barriques (equal parts French and American oak), three months in used barrels and then five months in the vats again before being bottled in May 2013. 2010 seems to have the exuberance of the 2011 and the seriousness and elegance of 2009. It has the Burgundian philosophy of terroir, with all plots fermented and aged separately, giving each vineyard what it needs in terms of vinification and elevage resulting in something like 40 separate lots to blend. This wine has gained in precision and sharpness, and is very pure with delineated aromas and flavors. It is a world-class wine, possibly the best Valbuena ever.” WA
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
The average price is $147
Greatest Hits of Gevry-Chambertain:
Dupont-Tisserandot
Under the direction of Didier Chevillon, the domaine of Dupont-Tisserandot puts out beautiful, deeply concentrated, quintessentially-Gevreyesque wines. Across twenty hectares, they farm a broad range of 1er Cru vineyards including Lavaux St. Jacques,Cazetiers, and Mazis Chambertain. Since 2013, Faiveley has owned the domaine.
Strict pruning regiments, 50+ year old vines, and careful elevage all lend the wines a classical edge; grapes are hand-sorted, de-stemmed, and cold-soaked during the initial maceration period. The clay-limetone soils are regularly plowed and Chez Dupont only native yeast fermentation takes place. Wines are aged on the fine lees in the interest freshness and complexity; 100% new oak is employed for the Premier and Grand Crus bottlings.
What with their spice-laden, black-fruited flavor profiles with sweet tannin, stunning concentration and snappy freshness, the wines of Dupont-Tisserandot are a lovely example of the beauty existing within the world of Gevrey- Chambertain. Below, our aggregation of their wines from the pre-Faiveley era, available at the shop:
Dupont-Tisserandot Available Here Now
Domaine Dupont-Tisserandot Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru 2010 750ML ($149.95) $119 special, 4 bottles available
Burghound 93 points “(80% from Charmes proper with the balance from Mazoyères; the two parcels total .8 ha). The presence of the wood treatment is more visible on the exceptionally fresh and pure mix of wild red berry fruit aromas and pungent earth scents. There is excellent power to the rich and admirably concentrated medium-bodied flavors that possess outstanding complexity, intensity and drive, all wrapped in a balanced and seriously persistent finish. This will require at least 10 years of cellar time to really unfold and 12 to 15 is likely to be the sweet spot.”BH
This is the only listing in the USA today!
Domaine Dupont-Tisserandot Corton-Rognet Grand Cru 2010 750ML ($119.95) $89 special, 17 bottles available
Burghound 93 points “Strong oak aromas presently dominate the otherwise ripe red and dark berry fruit nose. There is good freshness and energy to the powerfully concentrated big-bodied flavors that are shaped by forceful and phenolically mature tannins that are buffered by the copious extract. This is an imposing wine, and very Corton in character, that possesses excellent depth and length on the moderately austere finish where about the only nit is a trace of backend warmth. This is also one to strongly consider as long as you’re prepared to cellar it for a minimum of 10 years.”BH
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
Domaine Dupont-Tisserandot Les Cazetieres, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru 2008 750ML ($99.95) $79 special, 15 bottles available
Wine Spectator 92 points “A dark, almost brooding red, whose plum, black cherry and black currant fruit is sweet and permeating. Rich and supple, this picks up spice and mineral notes as it glides to the long finish. Best from 2012 through 2024.” WS
This is the only listing in the USA today!
Domaine Dupont-Tisserandot Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Prieur 2010 750ML ($49.95) $33 special, 17 bottles available
Burghound 87-89 points “Discreet wood spice adds breadth to the very fresh cool red cherry and earth suffused nose that is in keeping with the vibrant, detailed and impressively pure mineral-laden flavors. I like the sense of underlying tension and balance on the lingering finish.”BH
This is the only listing in the USA today!
Gevrey in General?
Some Other Worthy Gevrey-Chambertains Available Now:
Domaine Rene Leclerc Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru 2010 750ML ($199.95) $149 special, 36+ bottles available
VinopolNote: Domaine Rene Leclerc was founded in 1962 and is owned and run by Rene and his son, Francois. Their passion is for wine of purity and balance, a hands-off style that allows the fruit to fully express the magnificent terroir of the region. The wines undergo cold soaks before a light and short pressing to extract only the best juice. What follows is a long, traditional fermentation in stainless steel tanks with natural yeasts. The Griotte Chambertin, their only Grand Cru bottling, is aged in vat for six months and then for 1 year in 50% new French oak. It is an excellent candidate for long term cellaring, a serious wine that expresses notes of red and black berries, chocolate, game and spice as it opens in the glass. The Domaine owns 9.5 hectares of vines and works the Griottes vineyard portion (the portion being owned by Domaine des Chezeaux) and leased to R. Leclerc long term or ‘en fermage’).
As well as making this wine under his own label, Leclerc bottles some to be sold under the label of the vineyard owner, Domain des Chezeaux. Here is a review of the Chezeaux bottling from Burgundy report.com: “Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is a fine advertisement for ‘Griotte’ with a very pretty core of shiny red fruit – more cranberry/redcurrant than cherry – relatively simple in its youthfulness, but lovely. A hint of cushioning to the texture and an understated lick of tannin too. The acidity, like the tannin, seems rather understated but bubbles through as the mid-palate intensity grows, and becomes more mouth-watering. Subtly long. This is a very pretty wine that is also very ‘young Griotte’ in terms of its beauty yet lack of complexity – a perfectly balanced wine to wait for.”
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
The next best price is $199
Geantet-Pansiot Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru 2008 750ML ($199.95) $179 special, 7 bottles available
Burghound 93 points “A reserved but fresh and very pretty nose of primarily red berries cut with hints of earth and oak that complements well the rich, full-bodied and powerful broad-schouldered flavors that are supported by a firm tannic spine and excellent dry extract levels that coat the palate on the beautifully long finish. This is head and shoulders above the rest of the range but note that patience will be required.”
This is the only listing in the USA today!
Geantet-Pansiot Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes 2010 750ML ($74.95) $59 special, 12 bottles available
Burghound 91 points “Gorgeously complex and lightly spiced nose serves up notes of violet, plum and plenty of pungent earth that is also reflected by the dense and serious medium-bodied flavors. There is excellent volume and concentration to the mid-palate that possesses impeccable phenolic ripeness, all wrapped in a seductive yet linear finish. This is very Gevrey in character with a brawny yet not overtly rustic mouth feel. Recommended.”BH
This is the only listing in the USA today!
Domaine Jacques Prieur Chambertin Grand Cru 2008 750ML ($399.95) $249 special, 2 bottles available
Burghound 92-94 points “This cool and equally fresh and restrained nose offers notably denser and much more complex aromas of red and blue pinot fruit, violets, earth and pungent minerality that is very much in keeping with the backward and ultra primary flavors that are firm, intense and precise, all wrapped in an austere, driving and powerful finish. This has everything it needs to amply reward long-term cellaring and it will need it.”BH
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
Domaine Joseph & Philippe Roty Clos Prieur Bas, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru 2010 750ML ($99.95) $89 special, 2 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 91 points “Good medium red. Perfumed aromas of redcurrant, coffee, licorice, earth and flowers. Plush, supple and broad but also boasts excellent inner-palate tension. The flavors of redcurrant, raspberry and smoke show a distinct animal quality. Very long on the aftertaste. This comes across as richer and more pliant from bottle than it did from barrel a year ago.” ST
Domaine Bart Chambertin Clos de Beze Grand Cru 2013 750ML ($199.95) $169 special, 2 bottles available
Burghound 92-94 points “An exuberantly spicy nose combines notes of plum, dark currant, violets and underbrush. There is terrific intensity and a lovely minerality to the ripe and well-delineated medium weight plus flavors that are shaped by firm but not hard tannins on the balanced, long and impressively complex finale. This should drink well after 8 to 10 years of bottle age though it is unlikely to reach its full peak until 12 to 15 years have passed.” BH
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
The next best price is $175.99
Laurent Ponsot ‘Domaine & Selection’ Le Chambertin Grand Cru 2009 750ML ($349.95) $319 special, 2 bottles available
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
The next best price is $349.98
Domaine Pierre Damoy Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru 2009 750ML ($219.95) $179 special, 6 bottles available
Wine Advocate 92 points “The 2009 Chapelle-Chambertin floats across the palate with delicate red berries, flowers and sweet spices. Highly expressive, perfumed aromatics are woven throughout, while silky tannins convey an impression of pure sensuality. I especially like the way the Chapelle freshens up in the glass, always a good sign for the future. Of the 2009s I tasted from bottle, the Chapelle is the one wine that appears a bit reticent today. Pierre Damoy’s 2009s have turned out magnificently. Damoy remains one of my favorite under-the-radar growers. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2029.” WA
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
The next best price is $230
Domaine Faiveley Chambertin Clos de Beze Grand Cru 2011 ($349.95) $239 special, 29 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 94 (+?) points “Medium red. Highly nuanced yet quite primary on the nose, offering scents of raspberry, underbrush, dried rose, ginger and smoky oak. Juicy, saline and quite dry, with dark berry and strawberry flavors complicated by an earthy perfume. Finishes with substantial dusty tannins and excellent length. With 24 hours in the recorked bottle, this beauty showed a silkier texture and chewy, deep flavors of raspberry and spices that saturate the palate without leaving any impression of weight. A great effort for the vintage.” ST
Louis Jadot Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru 2010 750ML ($219.95) $199 special, 7 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 95 points “Good full, medium red. Expressive, nuanced aromas of strawberry, raspberry, crushed stone, smoke and flowers. Glyceral yet light on its feet, with a suave, silky texture to its vibrant, savory red fruit, floral and mineral flavors. Not at all a superripe style: really perks up the palate and leaves the mouth refreshed on the very long, sweet/savory finish. This classy grand cru finishes with captivating perfumed lift.” ST
Louis Jadot Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru 2011 750ML ($219.95) $169 special, 5 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 95 points “Bright, full medium red. Knockout nose shows an almost candied character to the aromas of strawberry, cherry, dark berries, lavender, menthol and Indian spices. Dense, suave and juicy, with a distinctly silky texture to the broad flavors of red fruits, menthol and spices. Utterly seamless, suave, classically dry Chapelle with outstanding energy and definition. Still tight today but the wine’s fine-grained tannins and superb breadth and length suggest that it will make a great bottle a decade hence.” ST
Louis Jadot Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru 2009 750ML ($179.95) $119 special, 1 bottle available
Wine Advocate 90-92 points “The 2009 Charmes-Chambertin shows excellent suppleness in its round fruit. This is a generous, open style with good balance, even if the wine lacks the sheer excitement of the best selections here. Bright red fruits and flowers inform the open, accessible finish. The Charmes is made from purchased wine. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2027.”WA
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
The next best price is $143.20
Louis Jadot Gevrey-Chambertin 2010 750ML ($54.95) $39 special, 4 bottles available
John Gilman 89+ points “The 2010 Gevrey AC was also one of the last to finish up malo in the cellars this year, but the wine was showing very good potential. The nose is a fine mélange of black cherries, cassis, coffee bean, fresh herb tones, woodsmoke and black minerality. On the palate the wine is fullish, long and complete, with a fine core, moderate tannins and very good length and grip on the tangy finish. This too will get a ‘booster’ of de-classified premier cru barrels and will probably merit a 90+ point score once that takes place.”JG
Louis Jadot Gevrey-Chambertin 2011 750ML ($52.95) $41.90 special, 11 bottles available
John Gilman 90 points “The Jadot team vinified the Gevrey AC in its entirety and this too, is a very strong village wine in 2011. The deep, quite red fruity and superb nose jumps from the glass in a mix of cherries, blood orange, grilled meats, mustard seed, dark soil tones and cedar. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, complex and very soil-driven, with excellent focus and balance, fine-grained tannins and very good length and grip on the backend. Another excellent village wine, and this too will receive a chunk of premier crus into the final blend before bottling!” JG
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
The next best price is $54
Spanish Case Deals
Of the 129 different wines we offer in stock now on case discount, we offer 11 Spanish wines. Below are five of our best sellers – offering great value and great drinkability, including the newly reviewed Lopez de Heredia:
Case-12 R. Lopez de Heredia Vina Tondonia Reserva, Rioja DOCa 2003 750ML ($499.95) $359 special, 5 cases available (that’s only $29.92/bottle and the lowest listed price in the USA today!)
R. Lopez de Heredia Vina Tondonia Reserva, Rioja DOCa 2003 750ML ($47.95) $33 special, 36+ bottles available
Josh Raynolds–Vinous 92 points “Bright ruby-red. Ripe cherry, vanilla and floral pastilles on the smoky, oak-spiced nose. Sweet and supple on the palate, offering pliant red fruit and spicecake flavors with suave mocha and vanilla bean nuances. Quite lively and fresh for a wine from a hot vintage, and showing no excess fat. Finishes sweet, toasty and very long, with smooth tannins making a late appearance.”
Wine Spectator 91 points “Cigar box, cedar and balsamic notes frame cherry, raisin and licorice flavors in this lean, firm red. Displays grip and focus. A traditional style. Drink now through 2023.”
Case-12 Amarte Mas Albarino, Rias Baixas 2013 750ML ($169.95) $119 special, 5 cases available (that’s only $9.92/bottle!)
Amarte Mas Albarino, Rias Baixas 2013 750ML ($19.95) $11.90 special, 22 bottles available
Josh Raynolds–Vinous 89 points “Light yellow-gold. Lively citrus and orchard fruit scents are given depth by honey and a subtle leesiness. Supple and broad on entry, then more taut in the mid-palate, offering bitter quince and Meyer lemon flavors and a zesty kick of candied ginger. Closes spicy and tight, with good clarity, lift and cut.” JR
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
The next best price is $14.99
Case-12 Bodegas Borsao Tres Picos Garnacha, Campo de Borja 2013 750ML ($199.95) $149 special, 12 cases available (that’s only $12.42/bottle!)
Bodegas Borsao Tres Picos Garnacha, Campo de Borja 2013 750ML ($19.95) $14 special, 36+ bottles available
Josh Raynolds – Vinous 91 points “(half fermented in stainless steel and the other half in French oak, followed by ten months of aging in French oak): Vivid purple. Fresh cherry, blackberry and incense on the highly perfumed nose. Lush, sweet and broad on the palate, offering fleshy blueberry and floral pastille flavors that turn spicier with air. Closes on a sweet note of spicy oak, with supple tannins, very good tenacity and a touch of fruitcake.”
Case-12 Buil & Gine 17-XI, Montsant 2012 750ML ($199.95) $149 special, 3 cases available (that’s only $12.42/bottle!)
Buil & Gine 17-XI, Montsant 2012 750ML ($17.95) $14 special, 36+ bottles available
Wine Spectator 90 points “This focused red offers flavors of black cherry, kirsch, licorice, toast and mineral, with juicy acidity and well-integrated tannins. Features a nice balance of fruit and savory character. Garnacha, Cariñena and Tempranillo. Drink now through 2020. 2,500 cases made.”
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
Case-12 Bodegas Riojanas Monte Real Reserva, Rioja DOCa 2006 750Ml ($319.95) $219 special, 3 cases available (that’s only $18.25/bottle!)
Case-6 Bodegas Riojanas Monte Real Reserva, Rioja DOCa 2006 750ML ($179.95) $119 special, 6 six-packs available (that’s only $19.83/bottle!)
Bodegas Riojanas Monte Real Reserva, Rioja DOCa 2006 750ML ($29.95) $21.90 special, 29 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 92 points “(100% tempranillo; aged for 30 months in American oak): Ruby-red. Sexy smoke- and spice-accented red fruit and floral pastille scents show impressive clarity and energy. Smooth, sweet and expansive on the palate, offering intense cherry-cola and blackberry flavors and an exotic rose pastille quality. Closes very long and sweet, with sneaky tannins and lingering spiciness. These are far and away the freshest bottles from this historic bodega that I’ve ever tasted stateside.” ST
Von Winning – Pfalz
Since Von Winning Winery was founded in 1849, they have produced unique wines reflecting the best vineyards in Ruppertsberg, Deidesheim, and Forst. Leopold von Winning, son-in-law of Dr. Andreas Deinhard, dedicated his life to creating top quality wines with respect to the outstanding vineyards in the area. He meticulously raised the quality of the wines to a new level as a founding member of the VDP, an association of Germany’s premium wineries. His decision to work as close to nature as possible remains the ultimate goal of today’s young and ambitious team led by winemaker Stephan Attmann.
Attmann describes his winemaking as “not doing the wrong thing at the wrong time.” The estate’s premium wines are treated with a minimalist approach and with the highest respect in the cellar. Gentle clarification, a natural and spontaneous fermentation and the abandonment of fining agents create wines with a distinctive indigenous and very elegant style. Pumping the juice or wine is never necessary in the gravity flow winery, allowing for minimal, and gentle vinification.
Von Winning Wines Available Here Now
Von Winning – Dr. Deinhard Deidesheim Riesling Trocken, Pfalz 2014 1L ($19.95) $16 special, 24 one-liter bottles available
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
The average price is $19
Von Winning – Dr. Deinhard Deidesheim Forster Riesling “UK” Trocken 2014 750ML ($24.95) $21.90 special, 20 bottles available
Terry Theise notes “There’s some label silliness here, and when there’s label silliness the VDP can’t be far behind. “UK” stands for Ungeheuer Kabinett, but Forster Ungeheuer is a Grosses Gewâchs, see, and the VDP doesn’t want the name used for a “mere” dry Kabinett albeit the wine grew there, and only there. It’s a classic bullshit example of “marketing” logic that has the effect of denying important information to the drinker. The wine itself was the best in its class (“second” wines from classified sites), thicker, with the finest aroma, largest minerality, most balanced finish and most expressive Pfalz spiciness. It’s like getting the noodles with the black truffle sauce but without the shavings of black truffle on top. That would be the “GG.””
Von Winning Deidesheimer Estate Riesling, Pfalz 2014 750ML ($21.95) $18 special, 19 bottles available
Terry Theise notes “Riotous clone-90 aromas—this was a popular clone in the Pfalz about 40 years ago, giving almost Scheurebe-like exotics and passion-fruit scents—leading into a juice-bomb dry wine, addictive and just stupid-tasty. I thought it would be a simple palate cleanser, but nothing doing. So fruity the palate reads it “sweet” though it’s analytically very dry!”
This is the only listing in the USA today!
Von Winning Deidesheimer Paradiesgarten Riesling Trocken, Pfalz 2013 750ML ($34.95) $27 special, 30 bottles available
Terry Theise notes “Tasty, barley and cask-y notes behind a grainy delineated Riesling; less creamy than the ’12 and showing some of ’13’s more pointed edge, but it delivers length, clarity and some ineffable Pfalz-ness, and they tell me it will be smoother by the time its bottled.”
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
Von Winning Ruppertsberger Reiterpfad Riesling, Pfalz 2012 750ML ($44.95) $39 special, 6 bottles available
Terry Theise: “The appetizer for the main course(s) to follow. It isn’t mineral, but rather smoky, belly-rich and robust, corporeal and mouth-filling and butterscotchy, spicy and generous, and yet solid and refined even with its big open bones.”
This is the only listing in the USA today!
Von Winning Ungeheuer Riesling Grosses Gewachs Trocken, Pfalz 2014 750ML ($69.95) $49 special, 3 bottles available
Stephan Reinhardt – Wine Advocate 94 points “Deep, very clear and cool on the flinty and lemony nose, the 2014 Forster Ungeheuer Riesling trocken GG reveals lovely, spicy flavor and gets more and more intense with more aeration. Full-bodied, clear and elegant on the palate, this is a very intense and powerful wine with a very long, complex, very salty and tension-filled finish. This is a very intense and persistent but elegant grand cru worth crellaring by Riesling lovers. This wine should age for ten and more years.”
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
Von Winning Deidesheimer Langenmorgen Riesling Grosses Gewachs, Pfalz 2012 750ML ($69.95) $59 special, 9 bottles available
Terry Theise: “It’s the manly side of Pfalz Riesling, and we debate whether this is a Grand or just a Premier Cru; yet the wine is articulate, herbal and peppery, cedary and woodsy, long, studious and spicy, with an almost urgestein minerality, suave even while it’s rural, and gentle even as it prods with its leafy message.”
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
Von Winning Ungeheuer Riesling Grosses Gewachs Trocken, Pfalz 2013 750ML ($79.95) $59 special, 16 bottles available
Wine Advocate 94 points “At this early stage, the citrus colored 2013 Forster Ungeheuer Riesling trocken GG (with lime green reflections) seems to be von Winning’s most impressive Riesling of the vintage. Intense, ripe and piquant fruit aromas of limes and grapefruit on the nose lead to a very juicy and salty palate where an almost perfect amalgam of minerals and fruit juice gives a very elegantly structured, medium to full-bodied wine. Then comes a delicious finish followed by a persistent and piquant length. This is a great, bright and energetic wine, whereas the Pechstein and Kirchenstück are still very closed at the moment.” WA
Von Winning Deidesheimer Kalkofen Riesling Grosses Gewachs, Pfalz 2013 750ML ($99.95) $79 special, 11 bottles available
Wine Advocate 94 points “Bright and pale green in color, the 2013 Deidesheim Kalkofen Riesling trocken GG from predominantly old vines on limestone/marl soils offers noble upfront fruit aromas of nectarines and yellow plums. Medium to full-bodied it is the mixture of purity, piquancy, juiciness of ripe fruit and the lovely salty texture that makes the tightly woven Kalkofen one of the finest Rieslings of the 2013 vintage in Germany. Fermented in 500-liter barrels, it can age for ten or more years.” WA
Von Winning Kirchenstuck Riesling Grosses Gewachs, Pfalz 2014 750ML ($149.95) $106 special, 12 bottles available
Stephan Reinhardt – Wine Advocate 96 points “Crushed stones with a dash of lemon juice on the clear, precise, fresh and concentrated nose of the 2014 Forster Kirchenstück Riesling trocken GG lead to a full-bodied, intense, pure, very clear and salty wine with discreet power but great length and finesse. This is purity in its most complex and elegant expression. There is no richness of fruit and no alcohol that tries to impress you; everything here is terroir and subtle winemaking. The wine is cool and almost delicate, and much fresher and stimulating than a Kirchenstück used to be. This von Winning was bottled with less than 12% alcohol and one can surely discuss if a great Kirchenstück needs to have 13% or more of alcohol. The proud price of 140 United States dollars is even more than you have to pay for the prestigious Kirchenstück from Bürklin-Wolf.” SR
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
The average price is $121
Von Winning Wines Arriving January 28th
Von Winning Deidesheimer Paradiesgarten Riesling Trocken, Pfalz 2014 750ML ($31.95) $26 pre-arrival special, ETA January 28th
Stephan Reinhardt – Wine Advocate 89 points “From a cooler, east-facing vineyard on sandstone soils, the 2014 Deidesheimer Paradiesgarten Riesling Trocken shows a cool and clear, intensely fruity bouquet with coolish stony aromas. Finely intense and concentrated on the elegant palate, this is a finesse-full Riesling with a high aromatic intensity and a stimulatingly pure and salty finish. This is a straight and finely racy Buntsandstein classic; it is light and with a deliciously juicy fruit and salty finesse in the finish.”
This is the only listing in the USA today!
Von Winning – Dr. Deinhard Deidesheimer Herrgottsacker Riesling Kabinett Trocken, Pfalz 2014 750ML ($37.95) $28 pre-arrival special, ETA January 28th
Stephan Reinhardt – Wine Advocate 90 points “The 2014 Deidesheimer Hergottsacker Riesling trocken offers a very clear and lemon-fresh bouquet with lovely pure limestone but also crystalline flavors. Very clear and elegant on the palate, this is a finesse-full and vivacious Riesling; it has a very fine raciness and a lingering piquancy in the stimulatingly stringent finish. Medium-bodied, the wine is very well balanced by some grams of residual sugar and another sensual Riesling of the von Winning range. ” SR
This is the only listing in the USA today!
Von Winning – Dr. Deinhard Deidesheimer Grainhubel Riesling Grosses Gewachs Trocken, Pfalz 2014 750ML ($49.95) $39 pre-arrival special, ETA January 28th
Stephan Reinhardt – Wine Advocate 92 points “The 2014 Grainhübel Riesling trocken GG comes from one of the very rare south-facing hillsides in this part of the Mittelhaardt, and starts very intense and concentrated in its ripe, almost tropical fruit aromas that are counterpointed by an aristocratic coolness — due to the dusty stone flavors that indicate some chalky elements in this terroir. Full-bodied, juicy and very piquant with banana flavors, this is a very elegant and balanced Riesling like a fruit cocktail with passion fruit and mango flavors. The finish is long, salty, lovely and piquant. This is a very relaxed and almost rich Riesling for the hedonists among our readers.” SR
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
The next best price is $43.95
Von Winning Deidesheimer Kalkofen Riesling Grosses Gewachs, Pfalz 2014 750ML ($79.95) $59 pre-arrival special, ETA January 28th
Stephan Reinhardt – Wine Advocate 92+ points “The 2014 Deidesheim Kalkofen Riesling trocken GG comes from a plateau above the Grainhübel where the grapes ripen a few days later. The soil is chalky and marly, and delivers a rather discreet but very potent wine that needs more time to develop its talents. The 2014 shows a chalky, powdered nose with fresh lemon flavors and rather white fruit aromas. Full-bodied, very round and elegant on the palate, this is a well balanced Riesling with a Burgundian touch thanks to the stimulating, finesse-full salinity and the okay kiss that also gives this Riesling a very delicate tannin structure. I recommend to store this well structured and juicy wine for another three years.” SR
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Von Winning Deidesheimer Kieselberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs, Pfalz 2014 750ML ($79.95) $59 pre-arrival special, ETA January 28th
Stephan Reinhardt – Wine Advocate 93 points “The 2014 Deidesheimer Kieselberg Riesling GG offers a very deep, lovely, clear and complex, rather coolish and finely spicy bouquet. Full-bodied, pure and intense on the palate, the wine has stimulating citrus flavors, a slightly creamy/yeasty haze and a vital but ripe acidity. This is a highly elegant and pure, very refreshing, piquant and persistent Riesling of great finesse.” SR
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Von Winning Deidesheimer Langenmorgen Riesling Grosses Gewachs, Pfalz 2014 750ML ($79.95) $59 pre-arrival special, ETA January 28th
Stephan Reinhardt – Wine Advocate 93+ points “The 2014 Deidesheimer Langenmorgen Riesling trocken GG offers a very clear and pure, rather coolish and stony bouquet with white fruit flavors on the nose and a dash of lemon juice. Medium-bodied, pure and piquant on the palate, this is a very clear, elegant, vital and racy Riesling with a lot of Spiel, grip and a lingering, salty finish. Still young, I would store this wine for another 3-4 years.” SR
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The average price is $68
Von Winning Pechstein Riesling Grosses Gewachs, Pfalz 2014 750ML ($119.95) $86 pre-arrival special, ETA January 28th
Stephan Reinhardt – Wine Advocate 95 points “Very complex but also subtle and fresh in its purity and intensity, the 2014 Forster Pechstein Riesling trocken GG intertwines ripe but discreet fruit aromas with the stony basalt flavors form this prestigious vineyard. Full-bodied, pure, round and juicy, this is a nobly textured, piquant and very long Riesling; it has great power, tension and a very long and aromatic finish that displays ripe peach, as well as also some passion fruit aromas. The lingering and stimulating salinity is really characterizing this wine that will get even finer with age. ”
Marcel Deiss
& Alsace-at-Large
At the Summit of Mountain Wine
Alsace is isolated from the rest of France to the west by the Vosges mountain range and separated from Germany to the east by the Rhine River. Mountain-side vineyards typically contain sandstone and granite, while the plains are composed of clay, limestone and marlstone. The best sites are along the foothills and are south-west or south-east facing to receive the most sun.
White wine predominates in Alsace due to the cooler climate. Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris and Muscat are the most common single varietal wines produced. In Alsace, single varietal wines are labeled by grape variety. But varietal blends have a historic presence, and some of the vignerons are rebirthing these as the truest reflection of the best vineyards. There are three AOC appellations: Alsace, Alsace Grand Cru and Cremant d’Alsace (sparkling wines). The Alsace AOC was established in 1962. The Grand Cru regions were defined in 1975 and are made up of 51 vineyards. Yields, vineyard management, ripeness levels and taste are restricted.
Alsatian wines, like their German counterparts, can range from completely dry to sweet. Vendanges Tardives (VT) and Selection de Grains Nobles (SGN) are the two late harvest (sweet) designations. Gewurstraminer and Pinot Gris are the most common grapes used for these wines. They give notes of fig, apricots, warm spices and honey. VT wines are made from grapes harvested several weeks after the regular harvest. The grapes are allowed to raisin on the vine, concentrating sugars.
Bergheim, a small village in the center of Alsace, is home to Domaine Marcel Deiss. The Domaine was established in 1947, but the family had a history of grape-growing and winemaking in the region since the mid-18th century. Today it is overseen by Jean-Michel Deiss and the wine-maker is Marie-Hélène Cristofaro. They own 67 acres of vineyards on the foothills of 9 communes near Bergheim and produce 10,000 cases of wine a year.
Deiss is considered a rebel wine maker for the region. He focuses on terrior over specific grape varieties. He practices a methodology known as complantation. Complantation is the ancient method of planting a great diversity of vines at great density. His vines are planted at over 4,000 per acre. They are stressed to the point where they yield half the volume of wine per plant than is average for the region.
The roots of these vines must compete for water and nutrients, which forces them to grow deeper. Deiss believes these deep roots overcome the variation among vintages to truly reflect the terroir. Phylloxera, wars and the modern practice of planting popular international varieties has narrowed down grape varieties and and their various clones to a bare fraction of what was once present. To overcome this, Deiss has trumpeted field blends that he harvests and vinifies together. While one grape variety would only be one expression of the vineyard, the multiple varieties are able to come together to form an fuller picture of the terrior.
His vineyards have been biodynamic since 2003 and have been organic for decades. The wines are treated with the same respect for their integrity. The hand-harvested grapes are crushed gently and slowly. The wines are fermented slowly in closed wooden vats using only indigenous yeasts. The wines are aged on the lees for extended periods of time. The wines are bottled without fining or filtration. Deiss is revolutionary in that he bucks the tradition of single varietal wine to make terroir-driven wines from a blend of grapes even in Grand Cru sites. Doing such was not allowed under AOC laws until 2005.
Domaine Deiss produces three distinct styles of wine. The “Les Vins de Fruits” are wines meant to emphasize the grape varietal. These are labelled by varietal and may list a vineyard. The “Les Vins de Temps” wines emphasize the vintage and include their VT and SGN selections. The “Les Vins de Terroir” wines only list the vineyard and are meant to reflect the terrior of the location. Domaine Deiss has over 200 distinct vineyard sites. The Burg vineyard, featured below, is composed of Keuper marl and limestone. It has a southern exposure and yields in the Domaine’s words: “a powerful, complex and structured wine.”
Wines By Marcel Deiss Available Here Now
Domaine Marcel Deiss Altenberg de Bergheim, Alsace Grand Cru 2010 750ML ($119.95) $99 special, 10 bottles available
Wine Advocate & Stephen Tanzer 95 points “Like its 2011 counterpart, the Deiss 2010 Altenberg de Bergheim is strikingly floral, but tends toward bitter-sweet and elusive perfume of iris and lily-of-the-valley. The influence of quinine and black tea as well as a welcome suggestion of fresh peach and citrus juiciness serve as more effective counterpoint and push-back to the wine’s prominent sweetness than is the case with the 2011. A gorgeous sense of openness and levity prevails here, with quince and nut pastes subtly complimenting the prominent impression of liquid floral perfume on a silken and expansive palate, leading to a prodigious finish at once caressing as well as stimulating in its dynamic interaction of flower, fruit, and mouthwatering mineral salts…” WA
Domaine Marcel Deiss Grasberg 2010 750ML ($59.95) $49 special, 15 bottles available
Wine Advocate 93 points “Striking, high-toned aromas of maraschino, pistachio and mirabelle distillate in the Deiss 2010 Grasberg put me in mind of previous renditions from this site and field-blend that favors Riesling, Pinot Gris and Traminer variants. Tingling pineapple informs its firm yet lusciously juicy palate, leading to a long, supportively sweet finish featuring the invigorating interaction of chalk, white pepper, orange and lemon zests, and nut extracts with peach and pineapple. Look for this beauty to perform impressively through at least 2025.” WA
Domaine Marcel Deiss Huebuhl 2008 750ML ($59.95) $41.90 special (was $49), 18 bottles available
Wine Advocate & Stephen Tanzer 92 points “(pinot gris and muscat) Full orange-gold. Pungent, high-toned aromas of orange, spices and medicinal herbs; conveys a strong botrytis character. A very sweet, energetic fruit bomb in the mouth, with brisk acidity giving grip to the rather exotic flavors of tangerine, apricot, yellow peach, botanical herbs and spices. Big and broad but not heavy. Finishes long, tactile and slightly phenolic, showing its pinot gris side today.” ST
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The average price is $49
Domaine Marcel Deiss Riesling 2012 750ML ($29.95) $24 special, 23 bottles available
Ian D’agata — Vinous 89 points “Bright straw with a gold tinge. Peach, tea and spice on the forward nose. Rich, ripe and suave, with lovely tropical fruit flavors that persist nicely at the back, with a touch of alcoholic heat becoming apparent with aeration. The grapes for this wine are sourced from three main areas: Saint Hippolyte (on soils rich in granite and clay that yield wines with less acidity), Bergheim (slightly bigger, richer wines), and a few small plots between Riquewihr and Béblenheim. Mathieu Deiss told me that ‘when I first came to work at the estate, I thought why not join these grapes together rather than make single bottlings of each? It’s not as if we don’t have enough single-site wines, and besides, I didn’t think our clients were die-hard fans of the Saint Hippolyte or Bergheim wines themselves.’”
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Domaine Marcel Deiss Schoenenbourg, Alsace Grand Cru 2010 750ML ($119.95) $99 special, 12 bottles available
Wine Advocate & Stephen Tanzer 94 points “Fresh peach and citrus lusciously inform the Deiss 2010 Schoenenbourg, whose creamy texture and honeyed richness, are matched by vivacious juiciness. White pepper, chalk, quinine, and shimmering mineral matter offer invigoration and counterpoint in a sustained and dynamically complex finish. The sweetness here is supportive without remotely getting the upper hand, so that I can well imagine over the 20-25 years during which this beauty will deserve to be admired, its versatility at table will vary inversely with a diminishing sense of sweetness.” WA
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A Red Wine Available from M. Deiss
Domaine Marcel Deiss Burlenberg 2009 750ML ($49.95) $36 special (was $41.90), 3 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 92+ points “Bright ruby-red. Red cherry, raspberry syrup and fresh herbs on the perfumed nose. Creamy and tactile in the mouth, with pure, rich flavors of ripe red berries and cherry supported by fine-grained tannins. Turns slightly tighter, even a bit austere, on the very long finish, which features lingering smoke and iron notes. (Deiss told me he finds a taste of blood in this wine.) All this very impressive, mostly pinot noir red wine needs is a little time.” ID
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Other Great Alsatian Wines Available Here Now
Albert Boxler Riesling Brand, Alsace Grand Cru 2012 750ML ($89.95) $79 special, 3 bottles available
Vinopolnote: From 40 year old vines planted on granite soils; grapes are harvested by hand, fermented on native yeasts without fining; vinified in foudre.
Domaine Ostertag Pinot Gris Fronholz 2012 750ML ($59.95) $44 special, 6 bottles available
Ian D’Agata–Vinous 90 points “Pale straw-green. Captivating aromas and flavors fresh apple, pear compote and smoke. Juicy and rather sweet, but with lively acidity giving it a light touch. This long wine was aged for 15 months in new oak” ID
Domaine Ostertag Fronholz Riesling 2012 750ML ($49.95) $39 special, 9 bottles available
Ian D’Agata–Vinous 91 points “Bright pale yellow. Ripe but vibrant aromas of white peach and jasmine. Silky on entry, then round and ripe in the mid-palate, energized by lovely lemony cut. The sweet spice, resin and strawberry flavors show a tactile texture and an almost meaty quality and leave the taste buds vibrating. Displays the lift and verve of this vintage in spades. A great Fronholz.” ID
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The average price is $43
Domaine Ostertag Riesling Muenchberg, Alsace Grand Cru 2011 750ML ($69.95) $49 special, 17 bottles available
Wine Advocate 94 points “Ostertag’s 2011 Riesling Muenchberg mingles fresh, very ripe apple and pear with candied grapefruit and kumquat rinds, caramelized parsnip, caraway, and fresh ginger, all wreathed in peat-like and charred smokiness, and putting me in mind of a Riesling dosed with Gewurztraminer. There is an uncanny combination of body and high glycerol with brightness here, leading to a finish of exuberant juiciness, zesty cut, interactive complexity and formidable sheer grip. I would anticipate this meriting return visits though at least 2025.” WA
Domaine Ostertag Riesling Muenchberg, Alsace Grand Cru 2012 750ML ($69.95) $49 special, 2 bottles available
Ian D’Agata–Vinous 92 points “Gold-tinged straw. Deep, very pure nose hints at white peach, minerals and flowers. A noticeable step up in depth and complexity over the preceding Riesling samples, boasting impressive flavor intensity for such a refined wine. Finishes multilayered, deep and long. This should prove to be especially ageworthy. The Muenchberg features especially complex soil made up of a blend of sandstone and volcanic elements. According to Ostertag, this is an ideal amalgamation. “Wines made only on sandstone can be a little obvious, and those on volcanic soils a little austere,” he told me, “so the combination of the two usually makes for some really amazing wines.”” ID
Domaine Ostertag Pinot Noir Rouge ‘E 2013 750ML ($29.95) $27 special, 6 bottles available
Domaine Ostertag Pinot Noir Fronholz 2010 750ML ($49.95) $33 special, 8 bottles available
Importer note: Fronholz vineyard. Vines average 40+ years old, soil is White Sand, Quartz, Clay, Marl
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Domaine Ostertag Pinot Noir Fronholz 2012 750ML ($59.95) $44 special, 12 bottles available
Ian D’Agata—Vinous 90 points “Good medium red. Musky soil tones and raspberry on the nose. Supple, spicy and sweet, with sound underlying acidity contributing to much-needed lift to the somewhat syrupy red berry and red cherry flavors. Finishes bright and long. This is a really outstanding Alsace Pinot Noir, fresh and crisp despite its obvious ripeness of fruit. The yield was just 30 hectoliters per hectare, according to Ostertag.” ID
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The next best price is $52.20
Domaine Dirler-Cade Sylvaner Cuvee Vieilles Vignes 2013 750ML ($29.95) $26 special, 8 bottles available
Winery notes: “Originally from pieces of land on the Saering and Kessler Grand Cru (Heisse Wanne), this flavourful wine is full-bodied, unctuous and a deep mineral nature. A benchmark in terms of grape variety – 1.9 g/l of residual sugar – sun canopy crusted with nuts and croutons.”
Jean Sipp Riesling Vieilles Vignes 2008 750ML ($21.95) $18 special, 3 bottles available
Winery note “A Riesling already showing a very open nose with lemony hues. The intensity of the aromas is prolonged on the palate, which is revealed with a fine acidity, balanced and persistent, with a rich finish.”
Domaine Andre Kientzler Riesling 2013 750ML ($21.95) $18 special, 11 bottles available
“A fine bouquet enhances the delicately fruity mineral shades. The palate is tight, straightforward and pure. This sophisticated Riesling is structured by a chiseled acidity, giving dimension to the wine.”–Winemaker Notes
Have a wonderful weekend!