A Vinopolis Il Poggione Sale
Featured New Arrival: Domaine d’Henri Chablis
Winery Cellared 2008 de Voguë Musigny
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The Rosés of Sancerre
First Offer: 2017 Delas Condrieu
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If you’re unfamiliar with the wines of Il Poggione, let’s catch you up quickly. They are a classic Brunello Brunello producer working with very traditional methods in the subzone of Sant’Angelo in Colle, a region that tends to produce wines with big, bold personality. Whereas some of Il Poggione’s neighbors take this natural abundance and add plenty of new wood and extraction, the attitude at Il Poggione is much more minimalist. The resulting wines are both crowd pleasing (rich fruit, up front aromatics) and intellectually stimulating (age-worthy, not obstructed by new oak) in way that is nearly unique in Brunello outside of names that trade for significantly more money per bottle.
The combination of classical proportions and attention grabbing power and complexity is extremely rare in a wine, especially at these sorts of prices. They are truly Great Brunello, along with names like Biondi-Santi, Soldera, Saliciutti, etc. except at half (or less) the price of its peer group. That combo, and our pricing, is what makes Il Poggione a contradiction in the best way—a traditional Brunello that’s often approachable young. An ageworthy wine that doesn’t have to be aged. A collectible wine that you can afford to buy in quantity (and afford to actually drink).
In Stock Now:
Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Tuscany 2013 750ML ($89.95) Was $69, Now $61.90 special
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 96 points “The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino lives up to the impeccable reputation garnered by this estate over the years. This is a profound and beautifully rendered Sangiovese that delivers bold and luscious fruit quality with black cherry and spicy plum at the start. The bouquet follows through with mild oak notes of smoke, tar and toasted nut. There is another aromatic component that includes crushed stone and dried herb or mint. This Brunello shows elegant evolution in the glass and promises a very long aging future ahead. Some 200,000 bottles were made, so it should be easy to locate this excellent wine.”
Ian D’Agata – Vinous 95 points “Bright red. Pure, refined red cherry and wild strawberry aromas and flavors complicated by sweet spices and aromatic herbs. Deep and multilayered, the wine boasts polished tannins and a harmonious acid spine that lifts and extends the red fruit on the long, suave finish. An essence of Sant’Angelo in Colle with bigger body and palate weight than, for example, the Brunellos of Montosoli, but still sleek and refined as the best wines of Sant’Angelo in Colle can be. The cool-climate-styled 2013 vintage is precisely the type of year in which Il Poggione excels: this lovely, focused wine is the best classico Brunello from Il Poggione in years. Superb.”
Wine Advocate 95+ points “Il Poggione is a Brunello superstar and a vintage like this reveals every reason why that affirmation is true. From the second the 2012 Brunello di Montalcino pours into the glass, you know you are in for something special. The wine is darkly saturated and rich in appearance. Absent are those slightly amber or browning hues you often get with Sangiovese in a hot vintage. Nor does the wine show flat or tired characteristics. Instead, the quality of fruit is vibrant and rich. This is a healthy, generous and exuberant Brunello with dark density and succulent fruit flavors that are followed by integrated spice and tobacco. The balance is impressive and one thing you get here is fresh acidity. This is not to be underestimated, because the acidity quota in the 2012 vintage across the appellation is not as high or evident as usual. This is one of the year’s best Brunellos.”
Ian D’Agata – Vinous 93+ points “Good full red. Medicinal red cherry, raspberry, sweet spices and mint on the fresh, precise nose. Bright and sweet, with a penetrating, austere quality to its flavors of red fruits, minerals and medicinal herbs. Harmonious acidity nicely frames the pure, long, youthfully tight finish. Lovely young Brunello that will repay cellaring.”
Now it’s even lower!
Featured New Arrival
Domaine d’Henri Chablis
The wines he’s making are some of the most beautiful in Burgundy, with rippling minerality, electric tension and pretty fruit framing the palate. They are classically Chablisienne in the best ways, practically the distilled essence of the region. We’ve been selling (and sold out) of a number before restocking today. These are wines that are essential for white Burgundy lovers—a benchmark producer without the collectible pricing.
In Stock Now:
Le Domaine d’Henri Chablis Saint Pierre, Burgundy 2017 750ML ($29.95) $26 special
Winery Note “The combination of the Kimmeridgian soils that are so typical of the appellation, and a continental climate allow the Chardonnay grape to produce this fine, elegant and racy Chablis, with a distinct minerality. Made from vines planted in 1988, 1989 and 2001 and vinified uniquely in stainless steel tanks, this is a great example of grapes harvested at full maturity. Marked by a beautiful acidity, this Chablis can be drunk as soon as its first year, but will continue to improve for 5 to 7 years.”
Importer Note “From two hillside parcels located in the Troëmes section of the 1er Cru Beauroy vineyard on the left bank of the Serein river, this gorgeous wine shows notes of citrus and pears with tinges of mineral. This vineyard tends to be a little warmer than many in Chablis and thus possesses plenty of richness in the mouth. This richness is balanced by elegant, fresh acidity and a very persistent finish. Although fairly fruit forward in its youth, this wine will age gracefully for at least 10 years, if stored correctly. Drink with richer seafood dishes, fowl and mushrooms.”
Decanter 92 points “Stern mineral nose with herbal notes. Fresh, lean and intense, the palate is a bit one-dimensional but it’s concentrated and lively. Zesty and long. Drinking Window 2018 – 2026.”
Grapelive 93 points “A new project by famed Chablis master Michel Laroche with his kids the Le Domaine d’Henri is really worth checking out, especially for the quality to price ratio to be found on their Premier Cru offerings, like this stylish Fourchaume 2016 bottling. The Le Domaine d’Henri estate is a historic property in Chablis…This 2016 delivers classic cooly/steely crisp layers of lemon/lime, green apple, fleshy pear and spicy flinty wet rock, a touch of hazelnut and white flowers. This is racy Chardonnay, but gains more and more texture in the glass, making it great with food, especially sea food, though also great with Burgundian soft cheeses. The Le Domaine d’Henri wines are handcrafted using, as they put it, minimum intervention, with their Premier Cru grapes being harvested by hand only and are then carefully sorted on a vibrating table in order to ensure that only the best quality fruit goes into the gentle pneumatic press, with the wine being fermented using “pied de cuve”… the wines get between 10 to 35% of barrel aging, with almost no new oak being used in any given year…The domaine believes that minerality is the signature of Chablis and the winemaking here is managed accordingly to showcase that, but there is also no doubt that with Premier Cru concentration these wines show richness and palate impact.”
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Winery Cellared 2008 Musigny
No second hand bottles!
Domaine Comte Georges de Vogue Musigny Grand Cru ‘Cuvee Vieilles Vignes’ 2008 750ML ($799.95) $645 special
Antonio Galloni 97 points “The 2008 Musigny Vieilles Vignes is a wine I could smell all day. The explosive bouquet literally jumps from the glass, followed by deep, beautifully delineated layers of fruit. This shows terrific concentration and depth, dazzling finesse, and a nicely pointed, direct finish. It is an eternal wine.”
John Gilman 97 points “At this point in the festivities, I could not believe what I had been tasting, and then the Musigny comes along and takes everything up yet another level. This is a simply profound bottle of Musigny in the making, as the wine soars from the glass in a hauntingly pure and complex blend of cherries, pomegranate, blood orange, wild strawberries, a glorious base of complex soil tones, citrus zest, a touch of spicy oak and a faint topnote of woodsmoke on the breeze. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, long and very intensely flavored, with a great core, perfect focus and balance, ripe, silky tannins and stunning length and grip on the dancing finish. Just a great Musigny. (Drink between 2020-2070).”
Burghound 96 points “Don’t Miss! This is also quite reserved at present with an elegant, airy, cool and pure nose that is kaleidoscopically complex as it offers red currant, plum, black cherry and a panoply of floral and spice notes, in particular violet and anise, before marrying seamlessly into mineral-driven and alluring big-bodied flavors that explode on the powerful and almost painfully intense finish that delivers genuinely stunning length. I love the way Musigny can so effortlessly combine a silky palate impression with serious muscle. This should be quite impressive in time though note that it will need a minimum of 18 to 25 years of cellar time.”
Jancis Robinson 19/20 points “The produce of the vines more than 25 years old goes into this (as opposed to the younger-vine Chambolle Premier Cru). Very dense and introvert. Not nearly as expressive in November 2009 as the domaine’s Bonnes Mares. Extremely serious, ambitious wine. An intriguing floral note that took me straight back to the smell of my grandmother’s flower arrangements. Rich, powerful attack on the palate. Wonderful precision. Sinewy. Then great nuances. This wine has such finesse! Yet it is dense and muscular too and just races away on the palate. Sweetness of fruit at the beginning and then absolutely dry and correct on the finish. Neat, reserved but clearly very special indeed. 19/20 points (JR).”
Beringer Vineyards Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley 2009 750ML ($159.95) $99 special
Stephen Tanzer – Vinous 93 points “Full, bright ruby. Pungent scents of blackberry, cassis, licorice and bitter chocolate are complemented by a note of crystallized berries. Juicy, savory and intense, conveying a strong impression of spine without any obvious dryness. The wine’s dark berry and licorice flavors show a sexy subtle sweetness, along with salty minerality and an element of peppery lift. This classically dry, sharply delineated, penetrating wine finishes with firm but refined tannins and lovely rising violet perfume. Youthful and gripping, it displays the energy of the vintage’s better examples and should go on in a cool cellar for another two decades. (14.4% alcohol) [Reviewed July ’19]”
Antonio Galloni 93 points “The 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve is a beautifully balanced wine. Firm yet well-integrated tannins frame a core of dark red berries, flowers, mint, spices and licorice. The Reserve shows lovely inner perfume and mid-palate juiciness. It should drink well with a minimum of cellaring. The main vineyards in the 2009 are Home (37%), Lampyridae (23%), Vogt (14%), Chabot (11%) and Rancho del Oso (9%). Each lot was aged separately for about two years before the final blend was assembled.”
The next best price is $109
The average listed price is $128
Domaine Chandon de Briailles Corton-Bressandes Grand Cru, Cote de Beaune 2015 750ML ($199.95) $119 special
Burghound 92-95 points “Sweet Spot. A markedly ripe yet elegant nose that consists of rose petal, plum liqueur, lilac, spice and wet stone aromas is trimmed in enough wood to notice. The very rich, intense and wonderfully vibrant big-bodied flavors evidence obvious minerality on the mouth coating and impressively long finish. This is a big and refined effort that is very much built-to-age so patience required.”
The next best price is $159
The average listed price is $169
Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Kabinett, Mosel 2016 750ML ($31.95) $24 special
Case-12 Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Kabinett, Mosel 2016 750ML ($289.95) $249 special (that’s only $20.75/bottle!)
Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 92 points “Opening with nice reduction but precise and ripe fruit as well as crunchy slate aromas on the nose, the 2016 Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Kabinett is pure and flinty, well-structured and quite aristocratic (though a frivolous aristocrat), with a firm structure, lush fruit and a lovely lightness and buoyancy. Very stimulating and mouthwatering, but it’s far too young to appreciate the full complexity it will deliver in a couple of years. Salty, grippy and fruity—just a perfect Kabinett.”
Stuart Pigott – jamessuckling. com 91 points “Super-fresh and vibrant with a cool, mineral-herbal personality and a very clean, long finish. You could drink it any time during the next decade, but why wait?”
Mosel Fine Wines 90+ points “The 2016er Zeltinger Schlossberg Kabinett was harvested at 86-87° Oechsle. It develops a slightly ripe nose of pear puree, herbs and spices. The wine is nicely playful and delicately infused with herbs on the palate and leaves a juicy feel in the direct and elegant finish. This is still reduced and will need some time to develop its full potential. 2026-2041.”
David Schildknecht – Vinous 90 points “This is another delicate, slightly loose 2016 but one brimming with juicy fresh pear and apple, consummately refreshing and full of charm. Apple blossom and smoky black tea share aromatic billing with intimations of the lively fruitiness to come. The subtly sweet finish gains invigoration from an incisive hint of cress, and proves admirably transparent to smoky and stony nuances.”
Cordero di Montezemolo Monfalletto, Barolo DOCG 2014 750ML ($49.95) $33 special
James Suckling 93 points “A little lift with woody and floral aromas here. The base line red cherries run from nose to palate seamlessly. There’s also an attractive, compressed density to the tannins here. Good polish. This is promising. Try from 2022.”
Antonio Galloni 92 points “The 2014 Barolo Monfalletto is a powerful, deep wine, especially considering that it was bottled not long before this tasting. A somber, dark Barolo, the 2014 is laced with the essence of black cherry, spice, leather and underbrush. Although not massively tannic, it is inward, closed and also unusually potent. I would give it at least a few years to be at its best. The 2014 is a decidedly serious Monfalletto that speaks in a baritone register.”
Wine Enthusiast 92 points “Intense aromas of raspberry compote, forest floor, eucalyptus and oak-driven spice drive the nose on this fragrant red. On the firm, youthfully austere palate, assertive, fine-grained tannins provide support for Marasca cherry, licorice, mint and a note of French oak. Drink 2021–2026.”
Decanter 92 points “From this long established La Morra estate comes this imposing wine, heralded by its intense and pungent sour cherry nose. It’s rich, broad and fleshy, highly concentrated and spicy, showing admirable force and power without being aggressive. Despite the grip on the long finish, there’s a soft core of fruit at the heart of the wine.”
The next best price is $39.98
The average listed price is $48
Mayacamas Vineyards Chardonnay, Mount Veeder 2016 750ML ($59.95) $49 special
Antonio Galloni 95 points “The 2016 Chardonnay is fabulous. A vivid, textured wine, the 2016 possesses remarkable finesse and intensity in all of its dimensions. Lemon oil and white flowers are amped up by the natural intensity of these old vines. The 2016 was fermented and aged in neutral oak, with no malolactic fermentation. Mayacamas is setting a new standard for what California Chardonnay can be. Don’t miss it.”
Wine Enthusiast 95 points “Editor’s Choice. From the mighty dry-farmed site within the secluded appellation, this incredible wine is expressive in tones of flint, fig, pear and lemon peel, with lasting acidity that brightens and freshens the palate. Medium bodied, it’s soft in feel yet structured, balanced and complex.”
New Arrivals
Oregon
Ian D’Agata-Vinous 91 points “Luminous straw. Delicate spicy nuances and sweet apple and pear aromas on the inviting nose. Then flavors similar to the aromas, and above-average acidity for a wine made with so much Auxerrois (this is a blend of 80% Auxerrois and 20% Pinot Blanc). Unlike Trimbach’s 2017 Sylvaner, this is made for the most part with bought grapes (though Pierre Trimbach told me he would like to limit the bought grapes to 50% of the total). No matter – it’s an outstanding Auxerrois wine.”
“Lying outside the village of Le Beausset, the La Migoua vineyard is the highest elevation site of the three and sits at 270 meters above sea level; it consists of diverse clay and limestone soils. Possessing the smallest amount of Mourvèdre (~55%) and the most Grenache, this cuvee is always slightly less powerful and rich than the other two single vineyards, yet is always the most perfumed and complex.” –Jeb Dunnuck [no reviews for the 2016 vintage]
Importer Note “50% Mourvèdre, 20% Grenache, 26% Cinsault, 4% Syrah from 40+ year old vines on clay and limestone soils. Destemmed, fermented with indigenous yeasts and then aged 18-20 months in large oak foudres.”
Wine Spectator 97 points “Rose, cherry and spice aromas introduce this light-bodied, saturated version. The flavors add wild strawberry, incense and kirsch notes, while remaining persistent on the kaleidoscopic finish. Feels tense now, yet should develop nicely over time. A mineral element lingers. Best from 2023 through 2045.”
70% Friulano, 15% Malvasia Istriana, 15% Ribolla Gialla.
Importer note “Situated just a stone’s throw away from the Slovenian border, Edi Keber’s 10 hectares of vineyards grow on the classic “ponka” soil, a stony, friable marl that gives the wines remarkable weight and body. Extremely poor, the “ponka” naturally stresses the vines which produce very small quantities of grapes and provide a distinctive minerality, typical of the Collio region. Keber’s first bottled wines date back to 1957, although his family, originally from Vienna, has made wine for 350 years. Edi deeply believes in the unique character of the Collio terroir and his objective is to make, starting with the 2008 vintage, only one white wine that will embody the tradition of the Collio by blending the three varieties that have been grown in the area since before the two great wars: Friulano, providing for body and structure, Malvasia Istriana to impart the aromatic component and Ribolla Gialla for its acidity. Edi’s young son, Kristian, follows his father’s maverick footsteps helping in every aspect of the production. The grapes are picked at their highest possible maturity levels and are then fermented and matured in old cement vats, which according to Edi, add an element of “soul” to the wine as opposed to the sterility of stainless steel. Keber’s wines are deep, intense, long-lived, where generous fruit and terroir blend seamlessly. The total production is 60.000 bottles.”
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 97 points “There is slightly more structure to the 2015 Barolo Ginestra Casa Maté than to the Gavarini Chiniera of the same vintage, and the only differences here are the soils and that this fruit is harvested about ten days later. It’s a pretty fascinating demonstration of the power of the single vineyard. The Gavarini Chiniera parcel offers slightly sandier soils, whereas this site is composed of more clay. In rainy years, the Gavarini Chiniera vineyard drains more effectively, whereas the Ginestra’s soil retains more moisture in the hot and dry vintages. As a result, in vintages such as this one, Ginestra shows a more compact nature and, in general, provides more impact and more structure. This is a very robust expression, extremely linear and tight. The Ginestra Casa Maté narrowly wins this round. It’s another beautiful Barolo.”
Antonio Galloni 96 points “Grasso’s 2015 Barolo Ginestra Casa Matè is a dense, full-bodied Barolo that is going to need at least a few years to start unwinding. Dark fruit and a host of mentholated, balsamic notes all run through the 2015. Broad shoulders and tons of depth give the wine its distinctive feel. The Ginestra Casa Matè is usually more expressive at this stage than it is today. Time in the glass soften some of the edges, but the 2015 is a wine to cellar and then drink for the next 20-30 years. There is so much to look forward to.”
James Suckling 96 points “Complex aromas of figs, ripe strawberries and fresh mushrooms. Full body, firm and tight tannins with a solid core of fruit and a long, linear finish. Great length. Drink in 2024.”
James Suckling 98 points “Extremely perfumed, showing lots of rose, lavender and dark-berry character. Full body with intense density and chewiness that gives the wine great structure. Lots of flavor and focus at the finish. Needs five to six years to finish. Drink in 2024.”
Antonio Galloni 97 points “The 2015 Barolo Gavarini Chiniera is ample, full-bodied and rich on the palate, and yet retains its explosive floral lift and brightness, two of the signatures that are such calling cards of Barolos from this Monforte site. A rush of sweet red cherry, blood orange, chalk, mint and rose petal build in a super-expressive Barolo that hits so many high notes effortlessly. The Gavarini Chiniera is one of the wines of the vintage. Don’t miss it.”
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 96 points “Gianluca Grasso did not make this wine in 2014, but in 2015, he found the vintage he was looking for. The 2015 Barolo Gavarini Chiniera is perfectly wonderful. The wine combines power with elegance, showing long determination as it wraps smoothly over the palate. The mature tannins are well integrated within a profound, ripe and round quality of dark fruit. That juicy and succulent core shows graceful notes of violet, licorice, cola, moist earth and white truffle. Grasso knew that this would be a great vintage and he nailed it.”
Importer Note “95% Nerello Mascalese & 5% Nerello Cappuccio aged partially in large botti and partially in stainless steel. . Practicing Organic. The current bottling is a blend of 2005, 2008, 2013, 2014 and 2016! Sourced from a mix of young and old vines. Cala Cala means “Gulp, Gulp” says Massimiliano, meaning you should gulp this one down because it’s so tasty!”
Calabretta Nerello Mascalese Vigne Vecchie, Sicilia IGT 2010 750ML ($34.95) $31.90 special
Ian D’Agata 94 points “Bright red. A funky note clears with aeration to showcase very pretty strawberry, red cherry and violet aromas and flavors, complicated by hints of fresh ginger, white pepper and lemon peel. Finishes long and perfumed with outstanding juicy cut and with suave, polished tannins.”
Stuart Pigott – jamessuckling .com 96 points“Super peachy with great brilliance and refinement. This is a great Spätlese that’s dry enough for the finest lobster dish, but it is also powerful enough to cope with the spiciest curry. The very long finish keeps pumping out fruit and minerals. Drink or hold.”
Stephan Reinhardt – Wine Advocate 92 points “From a warm, older vineyard (up to 70 years old) inside the Hofberg, the 2017 Riesling Feinherb “in der Sängerei” is concentrated and aromatic on the fine, spicy, herbal nose. Lush and elegant, this is a mouth-filling, fresh, salty-piquant and slatey Riesling with its 20 grams of residual sugar perfectly absorbed by the crunchy minerals. This is a juicy, round and sexy Riesling that already drinks perfectly well. Tasted in April 2019.”
Terry Theise ” A cadaster parcel within the Hofberg, this has often been a beloved wine for me. This ’17 is quite serious, in the vintage way, not as suave as usual but with a different kind of grip and length. Half was lost to frost, so there’s just one Fuder, of an earnest, dark-toned mineral wine, with a pointed acidity that sucks up every one of the 25g/l RS.”
Merkelbach Urziger Wurzgarten Spatlese #9 Urgluck, Mosel 2017 750ML ($39.95) $29 special
Mosel Fine Wines 93 points “The 2017er Ürziger Würzgarten Spätlese “Urglück” was harvested at a whopping 96° Oechsle, i.e. well into Auslese category. It delivers a captivating and elegant nose of flowers, minty herbs and candied grapefruit. These are joined by riper scents of whipped cream and vineyard peach as the wine gains from airing in the glass. This delightful Auslese in all but name shows quite some creamy and ripe fruits on the palate yet remains at all time very delicate and refined. A touch of exotic fruits and honey make for a smooth and juicy feel in the long finish. A hint of zest comes through in the after-taste. This is a gorgeous Auslese-style wine in the making! 2027-2047.”
Wine Spectator 92 points “Offers aromas of quince and honey, with the quince note continuing on the palate and combining with nervy citrus accents. Very suave and smooth, showing enough acidity for balance and dense flavors that carry through the finish. Drink now through 2031. 90 cases imported.”
Terry Theise note “Probably the masterpiece of their vintage, but not an “easy” wine. Extreme sassafrass, and very stony, but a hyssop-y spice trails along a subtle vein of fruit. Mosel at its most masculine, but hugely impressive, with its serious “resting face.””
Mosel Fine Wines 93 points “The 2018er Euchariusberg Kabinett AP 12 (known internally as “Kugel Peter”) was harvested at 87° Oechsle on 50 year-old grafted vines in the prime Gross Schock sector of the vineyard which was classified in the highest category on the old taxation maps, and was fermented down to barely fruity-styled levels of residual sugar (approx. 45 g/l). It delivers a very pure and flowery nose of citrus, grapefruit, peach, smoke, almond and mint. The wine is beautifully pure yet complex on the juicy palate. Some racy, almost Eiswein-induced, acidity gives a lot of zesty notes and tension to the finish. This racy Kabinett will please lovers of sweet-sour fruity-styled expressions of the style. 2023-2033+.”
Mosel Fine Wines 94 points “The 2018er Niedermennig Herrenberg Spätlese Feinherb AP 03 (known internally as “Palm, Meyer”) comes from 60-70 year-old vines in the south-facing Langenberg sector of the vineyard, and was fermented down to 33 g/l of residual sugar. It offers a superb nose made of orange blossom, apricot, yellow peach and greengage, all lifted up by some minty and spicy elements. The wine coats the palate with juicy yellow fruits combined to a ripe yet racy acidity. The finish is full of herbal notes, spices and zest, which give the wine great tension and focus. There is a feeling of power and intensity in the smoky after-taste. 2023-2038”
Mosel Fine Wines 93 points “The 2018er Niedermenniger Sonnenberg [Spatlese] Trocken (known internally as “Muny, Kleiner Klaus”) was harvested early on 60-70 year-old vines in the Unter den Röderchen and Beim Hasenbirnbaum sectors of the vineyard. It delivers great fresh notes of almond, smoke, dried flowers and minty herbs on the nose. The wine starts off on the zesty and pure side before it develops more presence and intensity on the palate. The long and intense finish is superbly zesty, clean and precise. This beautiful dry Riesling is all about finesse and steely Saar. 2023-2033”
Jeb Dunnuck 97 points “Seeing the same élevage as the 2016, the 2015 Vatan offers a slightly more saturated color as well as smoking good notes of blackcurrants, smoked earth, melted licorice, violets, and dark chocolate. Fabulous on the palate as well, with full-bodied richness, flawless balance, ripe tannins, and a great, great finish, it’s a primordial baby at the moment, yet this thrilling wine could compete with wine costing 3-4 times the price.”
Case-12 Sierra Salinas Casa Mira, Alicante 2016 750ML ($249.95) $175 special (that’s only $14.83/bottle!)
Jeb Dunnuck 93 points “Also 100% Monastrell but a selection of old, head-trained vines, the 2016 Mira Salinas was brought up in a mix of new, once-, and twice-used barrels. Its deep ruby/plum color is followed by a Bandol-like bouquet of smoked black fruits, earth, meat, and spice. It’s rich, medium to full-bodied, has beautiful fruit, good acidity, and plenty of tannins, and it’s a classic, balanced Monastrell that more than over-delivers at the price. These are custom cuvées for Jorge Ordonez that are only brought into the US.”
Josh Raynolds 95 points “Vivid ruby. An expansive, seductively perfumed bouquet of ripe red/blue fruits, pot-pourri, exotic spices and cola, along with an intense mineral overtone. Concentrated yet vibrant in character, showing superb definition and mineral lift to the sweet raspberry, boysenberry, cola, spicecake and violet pastille flavors. Shows alluring sweetness and powerful thrust on the youthfully tannic finish, which hangs on with outstanding clarity and mineral-driven persistence. (All whole clusters and neutral French oak.)”
Josh Raynolds 90 points “(aged for six months in one to three year old French oak barrels) Inky ruby. Pungent black and blue fruits, licorice, vanilla and cola scents are complemented by a smoky nuance that builds in the glass. Chewy and focused on the palate, offering concentrated bitter cherry and cassis flavors that are lifted and braced by a spine of juicy acidity. The smoke and cherry notes echo on the youthfully tannic finish, which shows sharp delineation and strong persistence. For the price point this is quite a serious wine, and one that will reward some patience.”
Jeb Dunnuck 90 points “Made from 100% Graciano aged in neutral oak, the 2016 Rio Madre offers a ripe bouquet of black cherries, blackberries, dried flowers, leather, and damp earth. Rich and nicely concentrated, it’s medium-bodied, well-balanced, and has a solid, layered texture as well as a great finish. It blossoms with time in the glass, has plenty of fruit and character, and is a rock-solid value.”
The Rosés of Sancerre
In Stock Now:
Lucien Crochet Sancerre Pinot Rose, Loire 2018 750ML ($34.95) $29 special
Importer Note “Indeed, the 2018 Sancerre Rosé—clocking in just shy of 14%–is deeper in color than usual, as well as more vinous and commanding on the palate. Pure Pinot Noir produced solely from direct-press juice and aged on its lees in stainless steel, this ’18 manages to carry its weight very well, with ultra-bracing acidity and a sense of lift on the nearly viscous palate. While this wine often drinks much like Crochet’s epic whites—steely and mineral, with enormous cut—one feels the Pinot Noir a bit more in this vintage, but it is ultimately a very interesting and delicious rosé”
Pascal et Nicolas Reverdy Sancerre Terre de Maimbray Rose, Loire 2018 750ML ($27.95) $24 special
Case-12 Pascal et Nicolas Reverdy Sancerre Terre de Maimbray Rose, Loire 2018 750ML ($299.95) $249 special (that’s only $20.75/bottle!)
Josh Raynolds – Vinous 92 points “Pale, shimmering pink. Vibrant, mineral-accented red currant, strawberry and blood orange aromas are complemented by a suave floral nuance. Shows impressive energy and precision on the palate, which displays intense citrus fruit, red berry and floral pastille flavors supported a bracing spine of dusty minerality. The floral note comes back strong on the bright, focused finish, which leaves a building mineral note behind.”
Raimbault Sancerre Rose, Loire 2018 750ML ($27.95) $24 special
Case-12 Raimbault Sancerre Rose, Loire 2018 750ML ($299.95) $249 special (that’s only $20.75/bottle!)
Domaine Andre Neveu Sancerre Le Grand Fricambault Rose, Loire 2018 750ML ($27.95) $24 special
Winery note “The colour of ripe redcurrants, with the faintest of hints of orange, perfectly limpid. The smell is delicate and the aromas reveal themselves more upon aeration. There are some lactic notes on the first nose, which then develops into aniseed and mint. The attack is round and supple. Overall it is soft and well balanced by a touch of tannin at the finish. The lingering finish shows spicy notes of pepper and thyme.”
2017 Delas Condrieu
Delas makes some of the most powerful, intense wines in the Northern Rhone at prices that make them one of the superior values in the region. Density and richness are a hallmark of both the reds and the whites—there are no shrinking violets in the lineup. The Condrieu, which we’re offering the new vintage of today, is all about the rich, opulent side of the AOC, with a thick mouthfeel and powerful aromatics.
For whatever reason, the market has yet to catch up to the quality coming out of Delas’ cellar. The Northern Rhone has turned into one of the hottest markets in the wine world, with many wineries getting expensive overnight. That hasn’t happened to Delas—yet. With the quality of recent vintages and the scores involved, we definitely see it happening soon, though, so if you love these wines now is the time to back up the truck.
Arriving ETA December:
Delas Freres Condrieu Clos Boucher, Rhone 2017 750ML ($99.95) $69 pre-arrival special
Case-6 Delas Freres Condrieu Clos Boucher, Rhone 2017 750ML ($599.95) $399 pre-arrival special (that’s only $66.50/bottle!)
Jeb Dunnuck 96 points “Slightly deeper and richer, the 2017 Condrieu Clos Boucher offers beautiful notes of tangerine, honeyed limes, citrus, and brioche. It’s another fresher, elegant Condrieu that has bright acidity, medium body, and sensational balance. It’s as drinkable as they come and one of the gems in the vintage.
“Owned by the Louis Roederer/Deutz Champagne firm, Delas Frères is another largely negotiate estate that is fashioning brilliant wines from throughout the Rhône Valley. The incredible quality has been led by Burgundian Jacques Grange, who joined Delas Frères in 1997, and he’s assisted by the talented Claire Darnaud. The 2015s, reviewed last year, are some of the finest wines ever from this estate (same league as the 2009s and 2010s). They’ve done a fine job in 2016, with the wines showing more elegant characters, missing the density or structure of a top year, yet offering balanced, very drinkable profiles. The 2017s should surpass the 2016s, but also have upfront charming characters. It’s worth noting that this estate has seen a progression in style since 2005, where the wines were more extracted and oaky, to the 2016s and 2017s today, which could be seen as more mid-weight and elegant.”
Delas Freres Condrieu Clos Boucher, Rhone 2016 750ML ($89.95) $79 special
Josh Raynolds-Vinous 95 points
Jeb Dunnuck 95 points “A step up, the bigger, richer 2016 Condrieu Clos Boucher is blockbuster stuff, offering serious notes of crushed rock, buttered citrus, orange blossom, and a smoky, meaty, mineral character that’s hard to describe. Possessing full-bodied richness, beautiful mid-palate concentration and a seamless texture, this beauty will be even better this time next year and keep for 4-6 years.”
The next best price is $94
Josh Raynolds–Vinous 94 points “Ruby-red. Very pungent, deep aromas of tobacco- and underbrush-laced red and blackcurrant. Powerful and rich, showing impressive sweetness to its potent cassis and blackberry flavors. Really stains the palate, finishing with exceptional purity and mineral tones. Whatever tannins are here (and you know there are plenty) are completely absorbed by the sheer fruit mass.”
Jeb Dunnuck 100 points “The top cuvée from Delas is the 2015 Hermitage Les Bessards, and it’s always 100% Syrah from the steep, broken granite soils of the Bessards lieu-dit. Aged 18 months in 30% new barrels, its purple/plum color is followed by a huge nose of blackcurrants, graphite, toasted spice, crushed rocks and saddle leather. Powerful, massively concentrated, and tannic, it has a broad, expansive, heavenly texture, a thick mid-palate (you could almost use a fork for this beauty), and a great finish. Despite the richness level, it stays balanced and graceful on the palate, and is never over the top or heavy. It’s a perfect Hermitage that will start to shine with 4-5 years of bottle age and keep for three decades or more. Bravo!”
Wine Enthusiast 96 points “Cellar Selection! There’s a striking balance here calibrating bold, almost muscular ripeness against an invigorating granite edge. This wine is plump and full bodied, full of supple blackberry and plum flavors balanced by pert acidity and taut, penetrating tannins. It should be in peak from 2020–2035 but hold further.”
Wine Advocate 95-97 points “The top cuvée is the 2015 Hermitage les Bessards, which comes from the middle to lower portion of the steep, granite hillside known as Bessards, unquestionably one of the best terroirs for Syrah in the world. Its inky purple color is followed by a full-bodied, rich, thrillingly concentrated red that has huge tannin, bright acidity and a solid mid-palate concentration. It still tastes like it just came from the press and will need to be forgotten for a decade. As normal, it’s completely destemmed and will see 18 months in 30% new oak.”
Josh Raynolds-Vinous 96 points “Inky ruby. A highly aromatic bouquet evokes candied black and blue fruits, along with complicating suggestions of smoky minerals, candied flowers, olive and vanilla. Deep, chewy and expansive in the mouth, offering impressively concentrated dark berry liqueur, fruitcake and salty olive flavors that are complicated by a hint of smoky minerality and a building floral pastille note. Distinctly rich and powerful but surprisingly graceful as well, showing noteworthy clarity and mineral-driven thrust on the strikingly long finish.”
Delas Freres Hermitage Domaine des Tourettes-Marquise de la Tourette, Rhone 2013 750ML ($119.95) $59 special
Jancis Robinson 18/20 points “Very dark purple indeed. Altogether broader and less focused than the Côte Rôties on the nose. Peppery and subtle. Very glossy, layered, complex and magnificent. I would reproach this only very slightly on the finish but it’s a pretty magnificent wine.”
Wine Advocate 94 points “One of the gems in the vintage is the 2013 Hermitage Domaine des Tourettes, which comes from both the Bessards and Grandes Vignes lieux-dits on Hermitage Hill. Completely destemmed, then vinified in stainless steel and concrete tanks, the wine is aged 18 months in 30% new French oak; it offers terrific notes of dark fruits, graphite and ample minerality in a full-bodied, layered, ripe profile. It’s more approachable than the Les Bessards, yet will still have three decades of longevity.”
The next best price is $79.97
The average listed price is $89
Wine Spectator 95 points “This is loaded with well-defined loganberry, blackberry and boysenberry pâte de fruit flavors, flecked with anise and black tea notes and carried by a fine iron streak that lingers wonderfully. A wine of cut, purity and precision. Best from 2020 through 2035. From France.”
Wine Advocate 94 points “A blend of Syrah grapes from several lieux-dits, including Les Bessards, the 2015 Hermitage Domaine des Tourettes is aged in new and second use barrels. It’s a dark, concentrated wine, meaty, rich and tannic but with a bright beam of cassis fruit that lifts it and gives it great definition and shape on the palate. Give this medium to full-bodied wine at least 5 years in the cellar and drink it over the next 15.”
Jeb Dunnuck 94 points “While the Les Bessards gets all the attention, the 2015 Hermitage Domaine Des Tourettes isn’t far behind and is unquestionably the value play. Beef blood, cassis, blackberry liqueur and loads of crushed rock nuances all emerge from this ripe, concentrated, full-bodied Hermitage that has a classic, structured profile. It’s well worth a case purchase and will keep for two to three decades. As always, this cuvée comes from two parcels, the lower part of the Bessards lieu-dit and the Les Grandes Vignes located at the highest point on Hermitage Hill. It’s completely destemmed and sees 16 months in 30% new French oak.”
Wine Enthusiast 94 points “Enticing hints of sweet spice, black pepper and bacon fat seduce on the nose of this rich but balanced Hermitage. Blackberry and cherry flavors are fresh and juicy but structured by firm tannins and brisk acidity. A polished wine already, it should intensify its savory, smoky complexities well through 2030.”
The average listed price is $87