A Special 48 Hour Sale
On Top Chateauneuf and Cult Sherry
One Last Dance With Ameztoi Rubentis
New Rosé Reviews from Vinous
First Offer: New Ulysse Collin
Francesco Rinaldi at Special Pre-Arrival Pricing
First Offer: 2018 Carl Loewen
On Two Top Chateauneufs + Equipo Navazos Sherries
In Stock Now:
Chateau de Vaudieu Chateauneuf-du-Pape Amiral G, Rhone, 2016 1.5L ($299.95) Was $249, Now $199 Weekend Sale Special
Jeb Dunnuck 99 points “The 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Amiral G. is based all on Grenache and comes from a single plot of very old Grenache vines (all rolled stone soils) that was destemmed and brought up in demi-muids. Just screaming “Grenache!” at the top of its lungs with its sweet bouquet of black raspberries, candied violets, baking spices, and crushed rock-like minerality, this beauty hits the palate with full-bodied richness and density, a weightless texture, no hard edges, and awesome length. It’s a sensational, borderline perfect wine that has everything you want from a bottle of wine. Give it a year or three, and it’s going to cruise for 15+.”
Wine Advocate 96 points “This exemplary estate, owned by Laurent Brechet, has been on a roll. The 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape Amiral G, 100% Grenache aged in demi-muids, is a full-bodied, lush wine jammed with complex notions of tree bark, cola, allspice, anise and plummy fruit. At 15.4% alcohol, there’s plenty of power, but the wine never seems warm or heavy, instead feeling rich and velvety on the palate and ending long and spicy. With just 5,000 bottles produced, it may be tough to find, but it will be worth the search.”
Josh Raynolds 95-97 points “Vivid ruby-red. Highly perfumed red berry liqueur, sandalwood and Asian spice aromas show outstanding clarity and pick up a sexy floral nuance with air. Silky, open-knit and juicy on the palate, offering intense, deeply concentrated raspberry preserve, cherry cola and floral pastille flavors and an exotic suggestion of five-spice powder. The floral quality repeats emphatically on a smooth, expansive, wonderfully persistent finish that shows just hint of fine-grained tannins. This wine exudes sex appeal and should be delicious soon after release, but it also has the depth and balance to carry it for years to come.”
Jeb Dunnuck 98-100 points “Incorporating 8% Mourvèdre, 12% Syrah and 5% other permitted variety, 60% destemmed, the 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Vieilles Vignes sports a deep, inky color as well as sensational notes of black currants, smoked meats, earth and crushed rocks. Deep, rich, unctuous and decadent, with huge extract and richness, yet never over the top or overripe, it’s a killer wine that’s going to flirt with perfection on release.”
Joe Czerwinski-Wine Advocate 97+ points “Time will tell if this wine equals the stellar 2015; it’s certainly very close in quality. The 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Vieilles Vignes is a blend of approximately 75% Grenache, 12% Mourvèdre, 8% Syrah and the rest other permitted varieties. Tarry and deep on the nose, it delivers waves of blackberries and black cherries on the palate, framing those flavors with plenty of richness, layers of silky tannins and a long, elegant finish.”
Wine Spectator 97 points “This is packed with plum, raspberry and blackberry confiture flavors that are youthfully wound up, while warm stone, anise, bay leaf, garrigue and tar notes fill in throughout. Dense but juicy, with a long, smoldering feel on the finish. Best from 2020 through 2040.”
Wine Advocate 98 points “Another very old wine from Navazos, the NV La Bota de Oloroso 78 “Bota NO” has the same origin as the Bota 14, also a Bota NO, but bottled ten years later with an estimated average age of around 70 years, from a solera belonging to Valdespino known as Añada 1809 that has not been bottled or sold for a very long time. The first 40 years it worked as a solera, but after that the barrels were not refreshed, and this is a single cask bottling. This is a beast of a wine, super concentrated and old, with all the signs of it, but still keeping its poise and a certain elegance within the powerful and concentrated style. The challenge for very old Oloroso is to keep the balance and this one manages it very well. This Oloroso is all about finesse. It’s a wine that has been untouched for decades. 1,100 half bottles produced.”
Luis Gutierrez-Wine Advocate 97 points “The new bottling many of us wait for every ten editions is now here in the shape of the NV La Bota de Manzanilla Pasada 80 Bota Punta. It’s bottled at 16.5% alcohol at an estimated average age of 15 years, the first ten years under flor and the subsequent five with the barrels fully topped up, following an oxidative (normal) aging. This is always a stratospheric wine, taken from the same few barrels—in this case the last one, the “bota punta”—and the character is similar with only small nuances. It was previously offered, from the very same cask, with the editions 20, 40, 50 and 60. This is still quite shy on the nose, but the palate is an explosion of concentration, flavors and minerality. It’s still quite biological, with the effect of the oxidation very subtle. The empty glass had amazing aromas of dried leaves, petrol, esparto and cheese rind. This should develop nicely in bottle. The benchmark Bota 30 from June 2011 is still going strong. Only 950 half-liter bottles produced.”
In Stock Now:
Ameztoi Rubentis Rosado, Getariako Txakolina 2018 750ML ($24.95) $21.90 special
91 points Josh Raynolds – Vinous “Shimmering orange-pink. High-pitched red currant, strawberry, orange zest and a bright mineral element on the incisive nose. Lithe and penetrating on the palate, offering intense red berry and citrus fruit flavors that pick up a sexy floral quality as the wine stretches out. Delivers a solid punch of flavor but comes off lithe, betraying no excess fat and finishing very long and precise, with a lingering suggestion of bitter citrus pith.”
We’ve increased our offerings in response to this (over 85 in stock right now) and Raynolds seems to sense that the market forces are definitely working for consumers, saying that “this is a good thing for wine lovers, as we are more spoiled for more choice than ever before.” Obviously, he continues that “It’s a double-edged sword, however, because just as there are more high-quality pink wines available, there are also a growing number of mediocre, mass-production examples, mostly from factory-style producers looking to cash in on the trend.”
We’ve worked hard to separate the wheat from the chaff and so when you head to the list of rosés in our webstore, you’ll see a lot of really excellent wines. There’s not really a dud in the bunch, but Raynolds recently reviewed a number of them, so we’ll highlight those today:
In Stock Now:
Domaines Ott Chateau Romassan Bandol Rose, Provence 2018 750ML ($59.95) $54.50 special
Case-6 Domaines Ott Chateau Romassan Bandol Rose, Provence 2018 750ML ($359.95) $299 special (that’s only $49.83/bottle!)
Josh Raynolds – Vinous 94 points “Brilliant onion skin. Highly perfumed, mineral-accented aromas of fresh red berries and citrus and pit fruits are complemented by a steadily building floral quality. Silky, focused and energetic on the palate, offering concentrated white peach, melon, strawberry and blood orange flavors that show sharp definition and impressive tension. Expands steadily on the extremely long, focused, mineral-driven finish, which leaves a suave floral note behind.”
Domaine Les Aphillanthes Cote du Rhone Rose, Rhone 2018 750ML ($17.95) $14 special
Case-12 Domaine Les Aphillanthes Cote du Rhone Rose, Rhone 2018 750ML ($189.95) $149 special (that’s only $12.42/bottle!)
Josh Raynolds – Vinous 90 points “Light vivid orange. Deeply perfumed raspberry, tangerine and candied rose scents are accompanied by a slowly building hint of succulent herbs. Broad and fleshy on the palate, offering bitter cherry and red berry preserve flavors and a refreshingly spicy touch of white pepper. Finishes velvety and long, displaying resonating florality and an energizing jolt of dusty minerals.”
Case-12 M Plouzeau Chinon Rive Gauche Rose, Loire 2018 750ML ($199.95) $149 special (that’s only $12.42/bottle!)
Josh Raynolds – Vinous 90 points “Shimmering orange-pink. Highly perfumed, mineral-accented strawberry and floral scents are complemented by a slowly building hint of orange zest. Dry and lively on the palate, offering bitter cherry and red berry flavors and a spicy touch of white pepper. Finishes clean and long, displaying repeating florality and a nervy touch of dusty minerals.”
Domaine Tempier Bandol Rose, Provence 2018 1.5L ($149.95) $119 special
Domaine Tempier Bandol Rose, Provence 2018 3L ($379.95) $349 special
Josh Raynolds – Vinous 93 points “Shimmering orange. Fresh pit fruit, red berry and floral qualities on the highly perfumed nose, along with suggestions of dusty minerals and orange zest. Juicy, focused and lithe on the palate, offering intense nectarine, red currant, strawberry and candied lavender flavors supported by a spine of juicy acidity. Shows outstanding clarity and mineral cut on a very long, sappy finish that strongly echoes the floral and pit fruit notes.”
Domaine de la Bastide Blanche Bandol Rose, Provence 2018 750ML ($27.95) $21.90 special
Case-12 Domaine de la Bastide Blanche Bandol Rose, Provence 2018 750ML ($259.95) $219 special (that’s only $18.25/bottle!)
Josh Raynolds – Vinous 92 points “Vivid orange-pink. Bright, minerally and focused on the highly perfumed nose, displaying fresh blood orange, strawberry and floral aromas that expand steadily with aeration. Energetic and chewy in the mouth, offering concentrated red berry, citrus fruit and honeysuckle flavors that show excellent depth and delineation. Closes taut and precise, displaying strong persistence and a resonating floral note.”
Pascal et Nicolas Reverdy Sancerre Terre de Maimbray Rose, Loire 2018 750ML ($27.95) $24 special
Case-12 Pascal et Nicolas Reverdy Sancerre Terre de Maimbray Rose, Loire 2018 750ML ($299.95) $249 special (that’s only $20.75/bottle!)
Josh Raynolds – Vinous 92 points “Pale, shimmering pink. Vibrant, mineral-accented red currant, strawberry and blood orange aromas are complemented by a suave floral nuance. Shows impressive energy and precision on the palate, which displays intense citrus fruit, red berry and floral pastille flavors supported a bracing spine of dusty minerality. The floral note comes back strong on the bright, focused finish, which leaves a building mineral note behind.”
Josh Raynolds – Vinous 94 Points “Light bright amber-hued orange. Mineral- and spice-accented red currant and cherry scents, joined by building herb and floral nuances. Shows noteworthy depth as well as energy to the bitter cherry, succulent herb, spicecake and blood orange flavors, which turn sweeter as the wine stretches out. Finishes extremely long and chewy, with resonating floral and red fruit character and a lingering suggestion of fennel. Aged for four years in neutral American oak barrels and racked twice a year.”
Chateau Gassier Cotes de Provence ‘Esprit Gassier’ Rose 2018 750ML ($21.95) $18 special
Case-12 Chateau Gassier Cotes de Provence ‘Esprit Gassier’ Rose 2018 750ML ($249.95) $196 special (that’s only $16.33/bottle!)
Josh Raynolds – Vinous 90 points “Vivid orange-pink. High-pitched strawberry, peach and jasmine scents are complemented by building floral and herb nuances. Silky and energetic on the palate, offering fresh red berry and pit fruit flavors and a hint of bitter orange pith. Finishes silky and precise, displaying very good persistence and a repeating floral note.”
Clos Cibonne Cotes de Provence Tibouren Cuvee Speciale des Vignettes Rose 2017 750ML ($37.95) $31.90 special
Josh Raynolds – Vinous 93 points “Vivid onion skin. Powerful red berry, pit fruit, blood orange and exotic floral qualities on the expansive, mineral- and spice-accented nose. Stains the palate with vibrant red currant, bitter cherry, orange pith and candied lavender flavors that steadily deepen on the back half, with no loss of energy. The mineral and floral notes drive a strikingly long, incisive finish that shows excellent delineation and lingering pit fruit character.”
Josh Raynolds – Vinous 92 points “Limpid, amber-hued orange. A highly complex bouquet evokes dried red berries, tangerine, peach, honey and pungent flowers, and a smoky mineral nuance builds in the glass. Dry and penetrating on the palate, offering intense red currant, strawberry, pit fruit marmalade and blood orange flavors that take on a spicy element on the back half. Manages to be both powerful and lithe, showing excellent clarity and minerally thrust on an impressively long, focused finish. Experience has proven to me just how ageworthy this iconic producer’s pink wine can be. Enjoy this one now, with some decanter time, or cellar it, with confidence, for at least another decade.”
Domaine Saint Damien Gigondas Rose, Rhone 2018 750ML ($27.95) $24 special
Josh Raynolds – Vinous 91 points “Limpid orange-pink. Bright and energetic on the nose, displaying fresh red berry and floral scents and subtle garrigue and mineral nuances. Silky, focused and lively in the mouth, offering zesty strawberry and bitter cherry flavors that deepen and pick up a hint of blood orange with aeration. The minerally note comes back strong on the finish, which lingers with impressive, floral-driven tenacity.”
Le Galantin Bandol Rose, Provence 2018 750ML ($21.95) $18 special
Josh Raynolds – Vinous 90 points “Vivid orange. Fresh red berries, citrus fruits and pungent flowers on the mineral-accented nose. Taut and energetic on the palate, offering bitter cherry, red currant and orange zest flavors that flesh out and turn sweeter with air. Shows impressive energy and nervy cut on the persistent finish, which leaves hints of lavender and fennel behind.”
Josh Raynolds – Vinous 90 points “Light glistening pink. High-pitched aromas of fresh strawberry and orange zest, along with hints of lavender and peach. Sappy and focused on the palate, offering nicely concentrated red berry and floral pastille flavors that deepen slowly on the back half. Finishes minerally and long, displaying noteworthy clarity and floral-tinged persistence.”
Josh Raynolds – Vinous 90 points “Glistening pink. Fresh red berries and pungent flowers and herbs on the fragrant nose. Juicy, mineral-laced strawberry, anise and floral pastille flavors show very good clarity, and a peppery quality emerges with air. A silky, expansive finish leaves warm red fruit and tangerine notes behind.”
Josh Raynolds – Vinous 90 points “Brilliant orange-pink. Pungent red currant, cherry and blood orange aromas are accompanied by suggestions of lavender and anise. Chewy and focused on the palate, offering bitter citrus pith and red berry flavors braced by a spine of juicy acidity. Smoothly blends power and finesse and finishes long and floral, with a mineral flourish adding snap and nervy cut.”
Josh Raynolds – Vinous 90 points “Light vivid orange. Spice- and mineral-tinged red berries, orange zest and a building floral quality on the perfumed nose. Juicy and seamless in texture, offering intense citrus fruit and red berry flavors that deepen steadily on the back half. The long, sappy finish leaves mineral- and spice-inflected raspberry and candied rose notes behind.”
Josh Raynolds – Vinous 89 points “Bright orange. Ripe red fruit, floral and herb scents, along with a subtle licorice note in the background. Broad and fleshy in style, offering warm raspberry and cherry preserve flavors that tighten up and turn spicier on the back half. Finishes smooth and gently sweet, with repeating spiciness and a hint of florality.”
New Wines from Ulysse Collin
“Winemaking as a rule here is as natural and non-interventionist as possible. All fermentation is carried out with indigenous yeasts, which can take a remarkably long time to complete: six to eight months is not at all unusual for Collin, and even when tasting vins clairs in June or July, they are typically still in the middle of their alcoholic fermentations. Both the fermentation and malolactic are carried out in three- to six-year old barriques, and the wine is neither fined nor filtered before bottling, which takes place in the fall after the harvest.” – Peter Liem, Champagneguide.net
Arriving Friday August 23rd:
Ulysse Collin ‘Les Enfers’ Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut, Champagne NV (2014) ($189.95) $159 pre-arrival special
90% 2014, 10% 2013
Antonio Galloni 94 points “The 2014 Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Les Enfers is a wine of tremendous breadth and staying power. Clay-rich soils in Congy yield a Champagne of real textural resonance. Apricot, orange peel, vanilla and tropical overtones infuse the 2014 with notable character. All the elements seem amplified in the Enfers, including a mousse that is a bit brawny. This release includes 10% reserve wines from 2013 and spent a total of 48 months on its lees. Olivier Collin has another lot in the cellar that will be released with 60 months on the lees. Dosage is 2.4 grams per liter.”
40% 2015, 60% Reserve wine
Antonio Galloni 94-95 points “The 2015 Extra-Brut Blanc de Blanc Les Pierrières is tense, vibrant and wonderfully focused. In this release, the Les Pierrières is 40% 2015 and 60% 2014 [if it is based 2015 why is there more 2014 %] juice that spent two years in oak, with the reserve wines no doubt contributing freshness and overall energy. Crushed rocks, citrus, white flowers and slate add striking layers of nuance. A slight touch of reduction adds character, but with less of an imprint than in some previous editions. Olivier Collin told me that he lowered the SO2 prior to bottling, which explains why this edition of the Pierrières is not as reduced as some of its predecessors have been. Dosage is 1.7 grams per liter.”
40% 2015, 60% Reserve wine
Antonio Galloni 95 points “The 2015 Extra-Brut Blanc de Noirs Les Maillons is ample, creamy and also incredibly inviting. More than anything else, the 2015 stands out for its textural sophistication and total class. Here too, the significant presence of 2014 reserve wines (60%) works beautifully in capturing an attractive interplay of fruit richness, savory complexity and layers of texture. Gorgeous Pinot aromatics and flavors meld together in this striking, effortless Champagne from Olivier Collin. Dosage is 2.4 grams per liter.”
100% 2015
First Offer
Francesco Rinaldi at Special Pre-Arrival Pricing
These are some thrilling wines that are always priced very attractively, an amazing feat considering the history and renown of the estate. They’re best known for their two cru bottlings, Cannubi and Brunate, which are from some of the most storied vineyards in all of Barolo, but don’t sleep on their Barolo normale. All three wines are extremely ageworthy, but the 2015’s seem to show a bit more flesh and early drinkability than usual.
We’re getting the collection of new Barolos, plus their super-value Dolcetto, this coming Friday (August 23rd) and we’re going to offer you even better pricing than usual, until the wines arrive. These prices disappear on the 24th, so if you know you’re going to buy them, grab them before they arrive and the prices go up.
Arriving Friday, August 23rd:
Francesco Rinaldi & Figli Cannubbio, Barolo DOCG 2015 750ML ($79.95) Will be $69, Now $59 pre-arrival special
Decanter 93 points “The source of this very traditional wine is Rinaldi’s 2.2ha holding in Cannubi Boschis. It can be a very structured wine, but in 2015 there’s greater opulence than usual. Tasted from cask, it displays heady juicy raspberry aromas, discreet but perfumed. It’s concentrated on the palate but also fresh and silky, combining lush textures with tension and drive thanks to welcome acidity on the persistent finish. Drinking Window 2021 – 2038.”
Importer Note “The other single vineyard bottling is the Cannubi, which is made from the single greatest vineyard in the village of Barolo, as well as one of the most famous individual crus in the entire region. Cannubi was the first vineyard name to be famous in the Barolo region, and to this day a bottle of 1752 Cannubi is still treasured by the wine-producing family of Manzone, and is considered the oldest, extant bottle of Barolo still in existence. The vineyard is most famous for the fabulously perfumed wines that it produces, for Cannubi is not the most powerful cru in Barolo, and much like Romanée-Conti in Burgundy, it is cherished for the fabulously complex aromatics and round, suave palate impression that it provides when fully mature. This is not to say that Luciano and Paula Rinaldi’s Cannubi is a delicate wine, for it is a deep, intensely-flavored and concentrated Barolo of great pedigree and elegance- once it is fully mature. Like the Rinaldi Brunate bottling, eight to ten years is required in top vintages, and the wine is really at its blazing best at age fifteen to twenty.”
Francesco Rinaldi & Figli Barolo Brunate, Barolo DOCG 2015 750ML ($79.95) Will be $59, Now $53.50 pre-arrival special
Importer Note “The two flagship bottlings at Francesco Rinaldi e Figli are the single cru Baroli, Brunate and Cannubi. Brunate is one of the greatest vineyards the Barolo region, lying on the border between La Morra and Barolo proper, with each village sharing the vineyard (though with the lion’s share lying within the village boundaries of La Morra). Wines from the Brunate vineyard are prized for their depth, power and brilliant balance, and the example from Francesco Rinaldi e Figli is one of the very greatest examples of Brunate made. In a great vintage it demands at least a decade to really begin to soften, and generally is not in full bloom until its twentieth birthday.”
Francesco Rinaldi & Figli Barolo DOCG, Piedmont 2015 750ML ($59.95) Will be $49, Now $45 pre-arrival special
Importer Note “Francesco Rinaldi e Figli makes two non-cru denominated bottlings, one of Barbaresco and one of Barolo, made from a blend of different parcels. The Barolo is made from vineyards in the towns of Barolo, Castiglione Faletto and La Morra…the standard Barolo bottling is aged for three years in large cask before it is bottled and made available for sale. Both wines are built for aging, and typically will be at their best from six to ten years out from the vintage. Like all of the wines from Giuseppe and Paola Rinaldi, they are beautiful, classic expressions of their underlying terroirs, with well-integrated tannins, tangy acids and beautiful complexity and balance. Both improve immeasurably if decanted an hour prior to serving.”
Importer Note “The lower level wines are superb examples of their genres, with impressive depth, complexity and classic structures…[like] he round, full-bodied and surprisingly serious Dolcetto d’Alba “Roussot” from vineyards located within the cru of Cannubi.”
2018 Carl Loewen
Carl Loewen took over the historic Schmitt-Wagner estate, with its extremely old vineyard holdings, and has elevated it to new heights, returning a slew of historic vineyards back to the esteem they were held to in the 1800’s. His wines are textural, rich and complex and often from old, ungrafted parcels within vineyards. 2018 continues the estate’s rise and plays into their strengths, as the power and richness inherent in the wines this year complement Loewen’s natural savoriness and acidity.
“This is one of the FIVE MOST INTERESTING ESTATES IN MY OFFERING, and among them it’s the one you know the least about. And that is gonna change. A couple decades ago an idealistic young couple realized there were great vineyards—not “good” or “interesting” vineyards, but truly great ones—along this stretch of the Mosel, and that no one knew of them because of the lack of a flagship estate. If J.J. Prüm had been a citizen of Leiwen and not of Wehlen, we’d be giving all that Sonnenuhr luv to Laurentiuslay and Ritsch. This is clear, and obvious. Karl was also convinced of the old Mosel verities; spontis in cask with no fussings or tweakings. When the estate Schmitt-Wagner had to fold its tent, as there were no children willing to carry it on, we were all very fortunate that Loewens could buy it. Carl now has every great site on this section of the Mosel (Longuicher Maximiner, Herrenberg Thörnicher Ritsch, Leiwener Laurentiuslay) They are every bit as important as Graacher Domprobst, Wehlener Sonnenuhr and Zeltinger Schlossberg, only you don’t know them, and therefore they COST LESS..” – Terry Theise
Arriving ETA December:
Weingut Carl Loewen ‘1896’ Herrenberg Riesling, Mosel 2018 750ML ($99.95) $79 pre-arrival special
Terry Theise note “[++] A wine of the ultimate interior, where weight doesn’t exist any more, yet where some core of life is stored, reposing, Waiting for you to arrive. It’s the culminated essence of slate-apple-balsam that is the outer skin of Mosel wine, but like Dönnhoff ’s Brücke can be, it’s also an ur-paradigm of Riesling ad of the souls who swim in its glowing green waters. The wine makes me think more than anything of Michi’s “Tradition” bottlings at Schloss Gobelsburg; it’s atmospheric and inferential; analog, soulful, more pealing, bell-like overtones, more poetic and secretive. Even in its animation it shows repose, and a complexity you don’t subdue, but simply and calmly allow it to guide you to the mystery. Here’s what Christopher had to say about this amazing wine: “Our Maximin Herrenberg, which was planted in 1896, is the oldest Riesling vineyard in the world of this dimension (more than 6,000 vines). Planted 1896. This is an incentive to us. I have asked myself over weeks: How did they produce wine in that period, in a time when Mosel Riesling was one of the most important wines of the world? In the Maximin Herrenberg we still have the single post training system with 10.000 vines per hectare, which was common in those days. No chemical fertilizer is used, everything, even the hardest work is done by hand. Never has the Maximin Herrenberg seen a machine! The adventure started in the harvest. The handpicked grapes were being transported to the trailer with the help of a hotte (a hotte is something like a rucksack, with which you can transport about 60kg of grapes in it; it was used before tractors made the vineyard work easier). The grapes, which were collected in a basket, were being stamped by foot, which had been common then. Through that procedure the maceration starts directly in the vineyard. On the evening of the picking day, the press process started. For the 1896 we used a very old wooden basket press, which we found in a small dusty corner at the lower section of the Mosel Valley and which we restored with a lot of love. Pressing was done by brawniness, the juice is guided without any sedimentation or pumping directly into the Fuder. The fermentation, of course, is spontaneous, without any added yeast. The result is a wine, which shows perfectly the strength of Riesling. It is a unique statement of consistency in a fast moving world. Due to the small scaled 1896 vineyard, we are just able to do one Fuder of the 1896 Riesling.” I mentioned an offside comment Michi Moosbrugger once made to me, that he wished he could make all his wines as he makes the “Tradition” bottlings, and I asked Christopher if he ever felt the same. Would he like to make all his wines as he makes this one? “Whether I would like to or not, it’s impossible both from a logistical standpoint, because it’s a lot of work in the middle of the harvest, and then also it wouldn’t work financially.” All of this is reasonable, and helps us to cherish the small volume of this vinous miracle even more. The ’18 starts with striking, euphoric aromas, beckoning and mysterious. How do we fathom the mysteries of time, of beauty, of the sighing, beating world, of all the things we sense but that disappear when we grope for them? On the far side of this unanswerable question, we get a glimpse of a breathing and seamless harmony, that exists to tell us there are moments when it all makes sense; it won’t answer your questions—but it all makes sense. That’s what this wine is like.”
Terry Theise note “This is vibrating and long, but like most of these it had a sour profile. But let me pause a second, to make a point. These wines weren’t bitter, nor did they have excess acidity. Those I find to be felt senses, whereas “sour” is something you taste. This wine was mint and mustard greens, like chewing on undressed dandelion greens. Fearing my palate was somehow distorted, we changed stemware (which didn’t help) and let the wine breathe (which helped somewhat).”
Terry Theise note “[++] This is the Loewen I know. The loveliest fragrance yet, and the first of these that feels like its destiny was to be dry. The parcel was planted in 1902, it’s above the parcel where the (upcoming) “1896” grows; steeper and stonier, and yet it has more fruit—which in this wine is all the difference. Lovers of Trimbach (or Kientzler, that racy un-seductive style) will be at home here. The wine is salty and adamant— but it knows how to sing.”
Terry Theise note “[(+)] This is a strong, green fellow; verbena and vetiver again; more juice in the mid palate but still a little rebuking, yet the scree and slate and herbs are prominent and the finish is taut and herbal, and one has reason for high hopes. An aside: as Loewens have enlarged their holding in Ritsch—which is a GREAT Mosel vineyard easily the equal of any site along the entire river—Christopher hinted at the possibility of an eventual wine with RS that wasn’t a botrytis Auslese. Even perhaps a Kabinett. When I jokingly asked “What about the Kabinett?” his mother chimed out “Kabinett? There will be no Ritsch Kabinett!” As though this would offend the Gods. I was startled, to say the least.”
Terry Theise note “An east-facing vineyard directly on the Mosel, offering slender and “blue” tasting wines. This ’18 is the brighter (almost grassier) face of slate; a tatsoi snap, and it was the first Mosel I tasted that showed ‘18’s phenols—is this a drought feature? The wine is rather a “study in slate,” and on that March day it felt a little strict.”
Weingut Carl Loewen Alte Reben Riesling Trocken, Mosel 2018 750ML ($27.95) $21.90 pre-arrival special
Terry Theise note “This is a cuvée of various plots between 50-70 years old, and you will note it doesn’t say “Trocken,” and that is because Loewens prefer not to have to wrestle the fermentation to get below the limit—bless them! They lose a commercially precious designation so as to let the wine do whatever it wants. This was unusual among Mosels I’d tasted up till then. Fluffier I texture but less fruit-forward than most. Vetiver aromas made me think of GV. The slate is “dark” and carbonized, like you’re biting into slate on a night with no moon.”
Terry Theise note “[+] The best vintage yet of this “bespoke” bottling for lil’ ol’ me. It’s fine, mineral and grassy, solid and salty, lyric and bright, with a little twang from the red slate. Everything works here, texture and character and interplay, and yet the harmony isn’t slack but instead finely taut.”
Terry Theise note “[+] Ungrafted vines planted in 1903. Do please note the price. Consider what the equivalent wine might cost you from France or Italy or Spain. Then consider why I sometimes get frustrated. This was just a week in bottle yet it was still spicy and expressive and angular and both vivid and deep, with a moderate minty sweetness.”
Terry Theise note “[+] Consistently and for many years one of the very GREAT wines in this offering, and among them, the least celebrated. Again, very old vines (at least 80, some over 100, all ungrafted) from an old terraced vineyard, because the wise citizens of Leiwen rejected the Flurbereinigung. Think Wehlener Sonnenuhr on steroids. (Or wait a minute; that’s Zeltinger Sonnenuhr. OK, think Zeltinger Sonnenuhr on steroids…) In essence this is weighty, extravagant fruit anchored to profound and almost chewy earthiness. The ’18 shows a little botrytis as all the clean grapes went into a dry “GG.” It’s a slim vintage, where even the deep flavors of dried apricots and butterscotch are more buoyant— if less profound—than usual, but it’s early days, the components are still waiting to knit, and the wine may well fill out. As it is, it’s wonderful!”
Terry Theise note “[++] This though is one shining gorgeous piece, and what a piece! As glorious, green and salty as it has ever been. Zero botrytis, fruit to the max, like a confiture of aloe vera and verbena.”