Weekend VinopolPick 6-25-21

Challenges Tempier for as the best in Provence, at 2/3rds of the price.
Chateau Pradeaux Bandol Rose 2020 750ML ($37.95) $31.90 special
Rosenthal Wine note “The Bandol Rosé from Pradeaux is perhaps the most serious wine in this category. Robust, rich, and complex with an ability to age gracefully, this wine is based on Cinsault (50%) and Mourvèdre (50%), taking its slight orange tint from the latter cépage. The younger vines of the domaine (average age: 25 years) are utilized to produce a rare rosé with staying power and exceptional complexity. The Rosé is vinified by a direct pressing for 24 hours followed by fermentation in cement tanks at a controlled temperature of 18 degrees Celsius for about 15 days; the malo-lactic fermentation is blocked and the wine is usually bottled in mid-April of the following year. We import approximately 600 cases (7200 bottles) annually of this exceptional wine.”

The newest vintage of our best-selling Bandol returns!
Domaine de la Bastide Blanche Bandol Rose 2020 750ML ($31.95) $26 special
Case-12 Domaine de la Bastide Blanche Bandol Rose 2020 750ML ($359.95) $288 special (that’s only $24/bottle!)
Weygandt-Metzler Import note “Mourvedre, Grenache, Cinsault, Clairette. Organic. Clay, limestone & cailloux. Tasting note: Dense cherry and raspberry fruit with citrus and stone flavors. Full body with a perfectly balanced and long finish.”

A classic Provencal bottle that’s perfectly refreshing and delicate.
Chateau du Seuil Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence Rose 2020 750ML ($21.95) $19 special
Skurnik Wines note “The Château du Seuil sits on the Puyricard plateau at an altitude between 350 and 450 meters, the highest site in Aix-en-Provence. Its towers date to the 13th and 16th century and it is classified on the list of French historic monuments. While the estate’s grounds cover nearly 340 hectares, only 62 hectares are planted to vines while another portion is dedicated to olive oil production. Owners Agnès et Robert Daussu are completely renovating the old Château and updating the cellar, as well as converting to organic farming. Sitting on an ancient fault line, the terroir is incredibly complex: clay, chalk, and rocks, with layers of iron-laden calcaire, and big galet. The vineyards benefit from the dry hot climate which is moderated by the Mistral wind. Enologist Pierre Guerin, who works also at Chateau Peyrassol, vinifies and ages the wine in tank. 30% Syrah, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Grenache, 15% Cinsault. From the highest vineyards in Aix-en-Provence. 35+ year old vines. 350-500m altitude. Clay-limestone soil. Direct press rosé. Fermented and aged in tank.”

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A value star from one of the most beloved rosé producers in the shop.
Peyrassol ‘La Croix’ Rose 2020 750ML ($19.95) $16 special
Importer note “Beautiful pale pink in color, with distinct bluish hues. This expressive blend opens immediately with notes of small red fruits carried on a savory undertone of garrigue. There is a refreshing touch of greenness on the palate which gives this fresh, lively wine its truly thirst-quenching character. An accessible blend in the true style of Provençal rosé: delicate with flavors of white fruit and a hint of minerality. Varietal Composition: 50% Grenache, 40% Cinsault, 10% Syrah. With a long history of producing Provençal wines, the Commanderie de Peyrassol has broadened its offering using fruit from its IGP classified vineyards around the Coudonnier area and completed with sourcings from local partnerships. The winery produces this rosé with the goal of creating a more accessible wine with a focus on quality and freshness.”

It’s hard to be too effusive about the values that Marietta is turning out these days.
Marietta Cellars ‘Roman’ Estate Grown Zinfandel 2019 750ML ($24.98) $18.75 special
Erin Brooks-Wine Advocate 95 points “The 2019 Román Zinfandel (blended with 4% Barbera and 2% Petite Sirah) has a medium ruby-purple color and gregarious scents of candied peach, wild berry preserves, orange peel and tar. The palate is deeply fruited but light on its feet with bright freshness and loads of perfume on the long finish.”

Not quite a new arrival—this gets in next week—but a fantastic Rhone blend.
Marietta Cellars ‘Christo’ Rhone Blend 2018 750ML ($24.95) $18.75 pre-arrival special, ETA Tuesday
Erin Brooks-Wine Advocate 95 points “The 2018 Christo is made up of 60% Syrah, 24% Grenache, 12% Petite Sirah and 4% Viognier. Vibrant ruby-purple in color, the nose offers pure scents of crushed red, black and blue berries, tobacco, violets, tar and smoked meats. The palate is full-bodied and packed full of perfectly ripe, juicy fruit, with a grainy frame and loads of uplift on the finish.”

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Savart has a distinctive style, and this perfectly captures his rich-but-bright Champagnes at a great price.
Savart L’Ouverture Blanc de Noirs Premier Cru Brut, Champagne NV 750ML ($59.95) $49 special
Case-12 Savart L’Ouverture Blanc de Noirs Premier Cru Brut, Champagne NV ($599.95) $529 special
John Gilman 91+ points “The l’Ouverture cuvée from Monsieur Savart is composed entirely from pinot noir grown in the village of Écueil, with half of the vins clairs barrel-fermented and raised in cask and the other in tank. Only the reserve wines that go into the blend have gone through malo for this wine, which is aged under cork, rather than crown cap prior to disgorgement. This release was disgorged in September of 2020 and finished with a dosage of seven grams per liter. It offers up a lovely nose of white peach, apple, patissière, chalky soil tones and a nice touch of orange zest in the upper register. On the palate the wine is crisp, full-bodied and complex, with a fine core, good mineral drive, frothy mousse and lovely focus and balance on the long and youthful finish. This is a lovely bottle that will be even better with a few years in the cellar. 2021-2040+.”
Disgorged February 2021

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Alary has been one of the value stars of the Rhone, and this bottling is one of their best.
Domaine Alary Cairanne La Font d’Estevenas 2018 750ML ($34.95) $26 special
Joe Czerwinski-Wine Advocate 93-95 points “Normally a 50-50 blend of Grenache and Syrah, the 2018 Cairanne L’Estevenas continues the successful run for this cuvée, even though it might be more like 60% Syrah. The volume produced was about half of normal. It combines peppery-herbal notes with violets and blueberries on the nose, then adds raspberries on the medium to full-bodied palate. Supple and almost creamy in texture, it finishes with terrific length and vitality. Tasted twice (once blind), with consistent notes.”

R. Usseglio continues to be one of the best—and most overlooked—producers in Chateauneuf.
Raymond Usseglio & Fils Chateauneuf-du-Pape Cuvee Girard 2018 ($49.95) $36 special
Joe Czerwinski-Wine Advocate 93 points “The 2018 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Girard hadn’t been blended when I visited the estate last year, so this bottled sample was my first look at the cuvée for the American importer. It closely mirrors the regular bottling, but typically includes a bit more old-vine Grenache. The nose is similar, offering up hints of dried spices, earth and black cherries, but the feel on the full-bodied palate is richer and more enveloping, with a creamy-velvety texture that flows seamlessly onto the long, plush finish.”
Jeb Dunnuck 93 points “A custom cuvée put together by their importer, the 2018 Châteauneuf Du Pape Cuvée Girard from Raymond Usseglio generally includes slightly more Mourvèdre but, by and large, normally tracks the base cuvée pretty closely. Deep ruby/purple, with a meaty, powerful bouquet of black raspberries, ground pepper, cured meats, and flowery garrigue, this beauty is medium to full-bodied and has a wonderful, supple mouthfeel, silky tannins and a great finish. I actually like it a little more than the base cuvée, but it should age similarly, with a solid 10-12 years or more of prime drinking.”

Dal Forno Romano Amarone 2011 750ML ($419.95) $369 pre-arrival special
Decanter 99 points “The strongest wine in my selection, yet this magnificent Amarone’s alcohol is barely visible thanks to its astonishing depth, texture and sumptuousness. Pressed black fruits seep with fruit essences; smoke and cinders; herbal complexities; teasing floral notes, all engraved into a palate that expresses creamy finesse but without a trace of superfluous fat, heat or obviousness. Beautifully crafted, as dignified as any grand Barolo.”
Ian D’Agata-Vinous 95+ points “Fully saturated ruby. Very deep, intense aromas of blackcurrant, plums macerated in alcohol, soy sauce, coffee and underbrush on the complex nose. Rich, dense and balanced, with nicely focused flavors of dark berries and aromatic herbs that have a noteworthy savory tang. The long finish features repeating hints of soy sauce, espresso and underbrush. Dal Forno’s is the recognized master of a uniquely powerful, ripe, and concentrated style of Amarone.”

Dal Forno Romano Amarone 2012 750ML ($419.95) $319 pre-arrival special
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 96 points “The 2012 Amarone della Valpolicella Monte Lodoletta is a beautifully complete wine, even at this young stage in its life. You feel the youth of the wine in the tightness of the tannins and in the finely knit texture of its concentrated flavor profile. The big surprise is the wine’s fresh acidity that has been carefully safeguarded despite the heat of the vintage and the drying process so deftly executed at this landmark estate. The wine shows no sign of oxidation or evolution, not yet. There is intricate fruit layering with cherry, blackberry, spice and mesquite delivered with such precision, that level of detail defies the very bold and opulent essence of the wine. It has only just started its evolutionary journey.”
Decanter 96 points “Romano Dal Forno took control of his family’s 25ha in 1980, aged 22, quickly turning to Amarone maestro Giuseppe Quintarelli for advice and tutorship. Dal Forno focussed on a dramatic reduction of yields, replacing the oxidation-prone Molinara grape with the rare Oseleta, and set about introducing a system of manual sorting to remove less than perfect grapes. It takes nine vines to create one bottle of Dal Forno’s Amarone, with a drying period of three months leading to 15 days of fermentation in temperature-controlled steel tanks. Ageing takes place in new oak for 36 months, followed by another 24 months in bottle. It’s a blend of 60% Corvina, 20% Rondinella, 10% Croatina and 10% Oseleta. Michael Garner: Exuberant, dense and chewy with peppery black fruit flavours, while showing some delicacy of aroma. Intense and will develop further, perhaps offering more power than grace. Andrew Jefford: It’s not showy on the nose but is super-attractive, and it just grows more so the more time you spend with it. On the palate it’s rich, deep, magnificently tannic and long – an absolutely unbridled Amarone, yet at the same time of extraordinary resonance, authority and subtlety. An Amarone masterclass! Monty Waldin: Its evident concentration really comes through on the palate, with a mix of smooth and slightly more savoury, drier tannins that mingle amicably under some ripely sweet red fruit, while finishing with a distinct brightness.”
Eric Guido-Vinous 96 points “There is a massive amount of pleasure to be found in the 2012 Amarone della Valpolicella Monte Lodoletta. It blends elegance with power while contrasting rich dark fruits against sweet herbal tones and spices to create a seductive expression from start to finish. Cherry and plum sauce, lavender, mint and sage can all be found upon first pour, yet it’s the developing notes of rum cake, mocha and licorice that complete the picture perfectly. This is velvety and pliant in texture yet not weighty, all balanced by juicy acids, tart fruits and just a hint of grippy tannins. Dark chocolate mixed with salty minerals under an air of sweet violet florals resonates throughout the finale. All of that said, the endnote here is remarkably fresh, as the 2012 never becomes tiring. This is firing on all cylinders yet with medium-term cellaring potential – but good luck keeping your hands off of it today.”
Wine Spectator 95 points “A velvety, full-bodied version, loaded with blackberry coulis, baked black cherry and tar-tinged smoke flavors that ripple across the palate. Offers lovely accents of dried mint, tobacco, iron and anise that echo on the firm finish. A powerhouse, with plenty in reserve. Best from 2022 through 2032. 250 cases imported. — AN”

Dal Forno Romano Valpolicella Superiore Vertical 11/12/13 CS-6 750ML ($699.95) $599 special
Mixed case: 2x 2011, 2x 2012, 2x 2013. No substitutions.
Reviews for 2011 vintage:
Decanter 96 points “This wine is a blend of 70 per cent Corvina with 20 per cent Rondinella and just 5 per cent each of Croatina and Oseleta.  It’s deep black-red in colour, and is dark and forceful, sombre yet voluptuous in aroma: a harmonious weave of black chocolate, sloe and elderberry, with the years in oak bringing a cedary refinement.  On the palate, it’s a vault of a wine: deep, dark and roomy, packed with earthy refinements and black-fruited echoes, both severe yet soft and enticing too.  The tannins are ample yet fine-grained, the acidity delicate and sustaining.  I wrote about the ‘crocodilian’ character of grand Veneto dried-fruit reds wine back in April, but the teeth are polished ivory here.  This is horizon-altering ‘Valpolicella’ which would perform outstandingly in any Amarone tasting.”
Ian D’Agata-Vinous 95+ points “Fully saturated ruby. Very deep, intense aromas of blackcurrant, plums macerated in alcohol, soy sauce, coffee and underbrush on the complex nose. Rich, dense and balanced, with nicely focused flavors of dark berries and aromatic herbs that have a noteworthy savory tang. The long finish features repeating hints of soy sauce, espresso and underbrush. Dal Forno’s is the recognized master of a uniquely powerful, ripe, and concentrated style of Amarone.”
Reviews for 2013 vintage:
Decanter 97 points “From one of the most iconic wineries in the Orientale, this is aged for two years in oak and a further three in bottle. A proper meditation wine, great with game, strong cheeses or a cigar. It has a huge nose of stewed red fruits, ethereal bramble forest fruits and blackberry jam. Generous, with spicy, bitter cherry-stone freshness. Full-bodied with a rich, intense, spicy undertone.”
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 95 points “This is a terrific wine that stood out—and stood tall—despite the fact that it was tasted alongside some of Dal Forno’s most important vintages of the top-shelf Amarone. If that’s not a full-on recommendation, I don’t know what is. The 2013 Valpolicella Superiore Monte Lodoletta oozes forth with thick concentration and an inky black color. The mouthfeel is thick and impenetrable, and the senses are treated to a long succession of black fruit, tar, spice, smoke, mesquite and barbecue flavors. The wine is full-bodied and very opulent, but it carries that massive intensity with grace and precision. This Valpolicella Superiore is very nicely done.”

Casanova di Neri Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2016 750ML ($69.95) $59 special
Jeb Dunnuck 95 points “The 2016 Brunello di Montalcino has compelling aromatics of cherry liqueur, sweet licorice, cedar, and forested earth. The palate is crystalline and full-bodied, with red plum skin and warming spice. There is a lot to love here, as this wine casts a large net for its versatility. Enjoy some now and lay some down, this is a great value. Drink 2021-2026.”
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 94 points “The Casanova di Neri 2016 Brunello di Montalcino (or the so-called “white label” Brunello) takes a minute or two to open, and like all these new releases from the Neri family, you’re best off opening your bottle five hours before serving them. This classic expression displays raspberry, tar, hazelnut, dried fig, asphalt and some crushed chalk. The wine is streamlined and compact in terms of mouthfeel, giving us an accessible Brunello from a benchmark Montalcino estate.”
Eric Guido-Vinous 94 points “Casanova di Neri’s 2016 Brunello di Montalcino is a wine of pleasurable contrasts but also massive structure. Ripe dark fruits and autumnal spices offset savory herbs and hints of animal musk. It enters the mouth silky, cooling and lifted, with a noticeable inner sweetness to its polished cherry/berry flavors, but it then sways more toward inner earth, minerals and grippy tannins. The 2016 urges you to take another sip, as there’s so much upfront appeal; yet each time you do, it reminds you once again that it’s a painfully young Brunello in need of cellaring. That said, the potential here is incredibly high.”

Weingut Willi Schaefer Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spatlese 2019 750ML ($54.95) $45 special
Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 94 points “The 2019 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese is precise, fresh and pure on the nose that displays notes grated lemon rind and crushed stones. Round, piquant and juicy on the palate, this is an utterly refined yet sustainable and firmly structured Spätlese with dense and vibrating fresh Riesling fruit whose sweetness is well-compensated by mineral grip, salinity and tension. 7.5% alcohol. Tasted from AP 08 20 in June 2010.”

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Emanuel Darnaud has been one of our favorite surprises of the past few years. Relatively new to Vinopolis, this small producer makes spectacular reds from the Northern Rhône -wines that have become some of our best deals when in stock. From top to bottom, the Darnaud wines over-perform, with density, power and drinkability. The stellar 2018 vintage just arrived, and highlights the power and richness that the vintage is known for. These are some of the best values in the entire Rhone, and have a deserved following for a good reason!

Winery Note: The story begins in 2001 with 1.5 hectares of vines on a tenant smallholding in the Crozes-Hermitage appellation district, just south of the small town of Tain l’Hermitage. Year by year, the estate has acquired new lands which today occupy 15 hectares divided among the municipalities of La Roche-de-Glun, Pont-de-l’Isère, and Mercurol (0.25 hectares of these growing Crozes-Hermitage Blanc).
Since the very beginning, Emmanuel has made a point of separating out the production from each land parcel for winemaking to keep the emphasis on each terrain’s subtlety and live expression. His ideal is to strike a perfect balance, requiring the utmost care during the grape harvest. The soils are worked and the output is limited. The grapes are picked manually and grouped by parcel. The harvest is partially destalked and placed in fermentation vats for 15–20 days. The wine is brought to a finish in wood containers, mostly casks but also wooden vats or huge oak barrels called “demi muids”.

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Emmanuel Darnaud Crozes-Hermitage Mise en Bouche 2018 750ML ($24.95) $21.90 special 
Joe Czerwinski-Wine Advocate 91 points “The medium to full-bodied 2018 Crozes Hermitage Mis en Bouche is delightfully gulpable stuff, bursting with scents of violets, cracked pepper and mixed berries, then supple and charming on the palate, with a fine, silky finish. Drink it with abandon over the next five years.”
Jeb Dunnuck 91 points “The 2018 Crozes-Hermitage Mise En Bouche shows the supple, elegant style of the vintage beautifully. Rocking notes of black raspberries, spiced plums, incense, and peppery herbs all emerge from this medium to full-bodied, rounded, sexy Crozes Hermitage. With no hard edges, ripe, supple tannins, and plenty of mid-palate depth, I’d be happy to have bottles in the cellar. It’s ideal for drinking over the coming 7-8 years.”
Josh Raynolds-Vinous 91 points “Deep, vivid ruby. Ripe red berries, candied flowers and a spicy nuance on the perfumed nose and in the mouth. In a forward, juicy style, showing no rough edges and revealing a peppery nuance on the gently tannic, nicely persistent finish.”

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Emmanuel Darnaud Crozes-Hermitage Les Trois Chenes 2018 750ML ($31.95) $28 special
Joe Czerwinski-Wine Advocate 93 points “The remarkable thing about Darnaud’s 2018 Crozes Hermitage Les Trois Chênes is how unforced it feels, showing great amplitude and length while at the same time remaining silky and elegant. Hints of violets and blueberries emerge on the nose of this full-bodied effort. Expansive and enveloping yet effortless, it should drink well for a decade or so.”
Jeb Dunnuck 93 points “Looking first at the 2018 Crozes-Hermitage Les Trois Chênes, this can be thought of as the entry-level release from this great estate and comes from a mix of different terroirs as well as young and old vines. Its deep purple hue is followed by a meaty, spicy, complex Crozes that delivers serious intensity in its black and blue fruits as well as its floral and mineral-laced aromas and flavors. Beautifully balanced, it’s a wine that gains richness and depth with time in the glass, offering ripe tannins and remarkable purity of fruit. It’s ideal for enjoying over the coming 10-12 years.”
Wine Enthusiast 93 points “Editor’s Choice. Voluminous yet fresh, this full-bodied Syrah highlights ripe, perfumed plum and blackberry flavors shaded by graphite, cedar and crushed peppercorns. Matured in a mix of concrete and large-format oak barrels, it’s a supple, pure-fruited red edged by fine, silky tannins and a spicy licorice finish. It drinks beautifully in youth but should hold through 2028. -Anna Lee C. Iijima”
Wine Spectator 92 points “Mouthfilling with its gush of dark plum and boysenberry compote flavors, this still has a racy back end, with licorice snap and apple wood notes kicking in through the finish, but it’s powered primarily by its gorgeous fruit. Drink now through 2026. 3,000 cases made, 250 cases imported.  –JM”

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Emmanuel Darnaud Crozes-Hermitage Au Fil du Temps 2018 750ML ($59.95) $49 special
Joe Czerwinski-Wine Advocate 94 points “Marked by intense aromas of licorice and seared beefsteak, Darnaud’s 2018 Crozes Hermitage Au Fil du Temps backs those up with notes of blueberries and black olives. Full-bodied, richly concentrated and tannic—but supple and ripe—with a bright, refreshing and lengthy finish, it’s a beauty of a Crozes to drink over the next decade.”
Jeb Dunnuck 94 points “More chocolatey black and blue fruits, violets, damp earth, and bouquet garni-like notes emerge from the 2018 Crozes-Hermitage Au Fil Du Temps. This rich, powerful, full-bodied Crozes shows the classic balance, elegance, and purity that are present in all of Emmanuel’s wines. With plenty of mid-palate depth, ripe, mouth-coating tannins, and outstanding length, this brilliant effort will keep for 10-15 years.”
Wine Spectator 94 points “On the exotic side, with a mix of açaí, blueberry and boysenberry reduction flavors entwined with licorice root and singed alder notes. Everything knits wonderfully through the finish, letting the fruit drip while the background notes flicker. Drink now through 2028. 210 cases made, 40 cases imported.  –JM”

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Emmanuel Darnaud Saint Joseph La Dardouille 2018 750ML ($59.95) $45 special
Joe Czerwinski-Wine Advocate 96 points “Every bit as good as I thought it was from barrel, the monumental 2018 Saint Joseph La Dardouille is one of the best Saint Josephs to have ever crossed this taster’s lips—certainly in the Top 10. Hints of cedar accent deep notes of blackberry liqueur, underlain by a bed of crushed granite. Full-bodied, richly concentrated and textured, it’s a prodigious effort that must be tasted to be believed. Despite the size and extract, there’s a sense of cool restraint and even a bit of refreshment on the lengthy finish. Give it another year or two; it should drink well for at least a decade beyond that.”
Jeb Dunnuck 95 points “The Saint Joseph release from Darnaud, the 2018 Saint Joseph Lieu Dit La Dardouille comes from a well-known lieu-dit located in the southern part of the appellation. More cassis, violets, gunflint, and gamey notions emerge from this beauty. Medium to full-bodied, it has a classic Saint Joseph focused, mineral-laced style, fabulous purity, and a great finish. This brilliant 2018 can be drunk any time over the coming 15 years or more.”

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