Weekend VinopolPick 5-7-21

Cameron Winery ‘Giovanni’ Pinot Blanc, Dundee Hills 2019 750ML ($21.95) $17.70 special, 27 bottles in stock now
Grapelive 90 points “Fast becoming one of my favorite white wines in Oregon, the Cameron Giovanni made exclusively from Pinot Blanc delivers smooth layers of apple driven fruits, brisk citrus, peach flesh, mineral tones, wet stone, as well as a touch of honey, herbs and white flowers. This vintage is zesty and has a bit more acidity than the last two or three versions. [It] feels a touch lighter in style, but still very compelling and gains a nice textural form with air. It shines for its varietal character and freshness, making it a good summer white and impeccable with a range of food and cuisine choices, including creamy soft cheeses, shell fish and herb crusted or lemon chicken dishes. As I have been saying for a while now, Pinot Blanc is becoming one of the best white grape expressions in Oregon, especially this one, as well as the very stylish versions crafted by Ken Wright and the talented Kelley Fox, both of which come from the coastal range side of the Willamette Valley, like the famed Freedom Hill Vineyard on marine sedimentary soils, while Cameron’s comes from the red hills of Dundee on the classic volcanic Jory soils, that gives a unique individual character with a touch of spice and that mineral streak. The Cameron Pinot Bianco (Blanc) or “Giovanni” as winemaker John Paul calls it, is fermented in cool stainless steel tanks, which, the winery notes, typically is from 3 different lots of estate grown grapes that are from non-irrigated vines with appropriately chosen cultures of aromatic yeasts, and bottled early after a short 6 to 8 months in its exuberant youth, to preserve vitality, usually in the early spring, after harvest. John Paul, who’s Cameron Winery is one of best known and admired Pinot Noir producers in the Dundee Hills AVA of Oregon’s Willamette Valley, has been influenced and inspired by the winemakers of northern Italy, especially the wines of Friuli, Alto Adige and Piedmont regions. In this case he brings a little bit of the Dolomites to us with his Giovanni. It shows the beautiful crisp details and mineral charm of some the top producers there, like Manincor and Terlano. The Italian style lineup at Cameron (what they call Cameronis) includes a fabulous Nebbiolo, that will certainly surprise and impress the Barolo and Barbaresco drinkers out there with its purity and classic Langhe personality, plus a collection of whites, including this 100% Pinot Blanc and the Friuli style Fruliano blend of Friulano, Pinot Bianc, Pinot Grigio and Auxerrois along with a small touch of Moscato, as well as the skin contact ‘Ramato’” coppery Pinot Grigio. All of these are fantastic values and intriguing wines.”

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Also In Stock Now from Cameron Winery: 

Cameron Winery ‘Giovanni’ Pinot Blanc, Dundee 2020 750ML ($21.95) $17 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Winery note “Our 2020 Giovanni Pinot blanc is an indicator of what an incredible vintage 2020 is going to be.  It’s really really good this year and at $18 bottle, we may just drink it all ourselves.  With fruit from the fabulous Abbey Ridge and Bellevue Cross Vineyards, Giovanni opens with aromas of lychee, Anjou pear, lemon curd and citrus blossom.  Elements of peaches and cream are center stage on the palate, with yellow grapefruit and a briny minerality in the wings.  Its piquant acidity makes it pair with almost anything.”

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Cameron Winery Abbey Ridge Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills 2017 750ML ($79.95) $66 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Cameron Winery Abbey Ridge Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills 2017 1.5L ($199.95) $179 special, 1 magnum in stock now
Winery note “The 2017 Abbey Ridge Pinot noir has aromas of cherry, pomegranate, cranberry and spiced oranges mingling with straw, ginger and as always rose petals.  A higher percentage of Pommard in this year’s blend introduces flavors of cracked pepper, black olive and salumi.  The front to back of the palate is seamless, with soft tannins, bright lively acidity, a long lingering finish and perfect moderate alcohol of 12.8%.  At over 40 years of age, Abbey Ridge is one of the oldest and best vineyards in the state of Oregon.”
VinopolNote: Abbey Ridge is one of the most hallowed sites in the Willamette Valley.  Planted in 1975, the Pinot Noir here is own rooted and at one of the highest elevations in the Dundee Hills.  The elevation and classic Jory soils give the wine an intense personality—high toned, elegant and tensile, with good power and a strong voice.  This bottling has been one of the defining Oregon Pinots since John Paul started making it.

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Cameron Winery ‘Arley’s Leap’ Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills 2018 750ML ($59.95) $49 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
VinopolNote “Deep and concentrated. This wine pulls at you. It’s no surprise that John Paul announced to us that it is his favorite wine of the vintage.”
Winery note “Arley’s leap harkens from a block of Pinot noir planted in 1990 at Abbey Ridge Vineyard. The eponymous hero was Bill and Julia Wayne’s old dog Arley, who survived a jump from a second story balcony when startled by a cat.”

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Domaine Forey is one of those “overnight success after 25 years” types of Burgundy domains. The wines have been stunning for years, but exist in a (blessed) medium place of collectability—quantities are extremely scarce because of the size of the domaine, but somehow they aren’t yet a “name” in the sense of a Coche or Roumier.  The result is that we actually get to offer the wines to you, however briefly.

We’re expecting the wines disappear quickly, but it’s remarkable for wines of this quality and rarity to even be offered on the newsletter like this. The 2018 vintage is, of course, a great year and more importantly it’s a year that plays into the style of the house.  These look to be monumental wines that have Forey’s usual power, coupled with a sense of refinement and polish that’s been growing over the last 7-10 years here.

Because of the scarcity of these wines, we recommend heading directly to our online store to purchase them. Email and phone orders will not be processed until we open for business on Saturday morning, and wines may sell out.

Arriving May 14th:

Regis Forey Echezeaux Grand Cru 2018 750ML ($249.95) $219 pre-arrival special
Three bottles available
Rosenthal Note “Forey owns 0.3 hectares in this exalted cru, in the climats of Les Treux and Clos Saint-Denis, flanked by the grand cru Grands-Echezeaux to the north and Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots to the south. All but a small recently replanted portion of the holdings are between 40 and 65 years old, and Forey always wrests a wine of refined power from these old vines. 70% whole clusters.”

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Regis Forey Clos Vougeot Grand Cru 2018 750ML ($249.95) $219 pre-arrival special
Three bottles available
Rosenthal Note “Clos de Vougeot is the defensive lineman to the Echezeaux’s running back—massively scaled and more squarely built. Regis works a third of a hectare of 40-to-45-year-old vines here, and this is, appropriately, the densest and most currently inscrutable wine of the lineup. Still, at its core is a certain elegance, which imbues this broad-shouldered wine with a real sense of refinement. 60% whole clusters.”

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Regis Forey NSG Les Perrieres 1er Cru 2018 750ML ($149.95) $119 pre-arrival special
Three bottles available
Rosenthal Note “Regis works a 0.42-hectare parcel of 75-to-80-year-old vines in this vaunted cru, and this 2018 —vinified with 30% whole clusters—is an immediate leap forward in complexity from the previous wines. All its elements present with greater force: juicier fruit, firmer yet more fully enrobed tannins, and a more intense earth-mineral interplay.”

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Regis Forey Morey St Denis 1er Cru 2018 750ML ($119.95) $99 pre-arrival special
Two bottles available
Rosenthal Note “From small holdings in the premier crus Clos Baulet and Les Blanchards, Forey’s Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru—made with 50% whole clusters—exudes pure energy, offering tangy red fruits, fine-grained tannins, and intense minerality. The classic note of savory Morey earth is present but understated, marrying wonderfully with the wine’s stem-inflected overlay of spice.”

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John Gilman’s classical palate is the reason that we treasure his newsletter, A View from the Cellar. He’s recently reviewed a number of our favorite “new Spanish” wines—bottles that emphasize freshness, elegance and terroir-driven personality. From crisp Galician whites to hearty bottles of Graciano from Navarra, there’s something for everyone in this set of wines.


Alberto Nanclares Albarino 2019 750ML ($49.95) $39 special, 12 bottles in stock now
John Gilman 93 points “The Alberto Nanclares bottling from Nanclares y Prieto is produced from pergola-trained vines, ranging from thirty to sixty years of age, all planted on granitic soils interspersed with sand. The wine is fermented and raised for a bit more than a year, half in an old French oak tina and the other half in stainless steel, with fine lees in both vessels. The 2019 bottling is gorgeous on both the nose and palate, with the bouquet offering up a vibrant and complex blend of lemon, green apple, discreet notes of beeswax, ocean breeze, granitic minerality, gentle leesy tones and a delicate topnote of white flowers. On the palate the wine is bright, full-bodied and rock solid at the core, with superb mineral drive and cut, snappy acids and a very long, complex and saline finish. This is superb Albariño! 2021-2035.”

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Alberto Nanclares Albarino Soverribas 2019 750ML ($59.95) $49 special, 12 bottles in stock now
John Gilman 93+ points “The Soverribas bottling from Alberto Nanclares and Silvia Prieto is a single vineyard wine, from a parcel of thirty-plus year-old, pergola-trained vines in the vineyard of Paraje Manzaniña. The wine is raised on its fine lees entirely in 2200 liter, ten year-old French oak tina for one year and then given additional bottle aging in the cellars prior to release. The 2019 Soverribas is a beautiful wine, with the more floral aspect of Meaño Albariño quite evident on the nose, which wafts from the glass in a mix of fresh lime, bread fruit, beautifully complex minerality, citrus blossoms, white flowers, a hint of leesy tones and incipient notes of beeswax. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and tightly-knit, with a lovely core of fruit, excellent mineral drive, fine focus and grip and a long, complex and very promising finish. This is more reserved out of the blocks than the 2019 Alberto Nanclares bottling and I would be inclined to give this another year or two in the cellar and let it really blossom. It is going to be superb. 2023-2040.”

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Alberto Nanclares Albarino A Grana 2019 750ML ($69.95) $59 special, 12 bottles in stock now
John Gilman 94 points “The Albariño “A Graña” bottling from Nanclares y Prieto Viticultores is a single vineyard cuvée produced from an old vine parcel planted on sand and granite soils. The wine is fermented in an eight hundred liter chestnut cask and a two hundred liter stainless steel tank. The wine spends eleven months on its fine lees, with weekly battonage for the first three months, prior to bottling without fining or filtration. The 2019 A Graña delivers crystalline precision in its bouquet of lemon, green apple, breadfruit, wet stone minerality, menthol, dried flowers and a hint of Chablis-like straw tones in the upper register. On the palate the wine is bright, fullbodied, complex and racy, with a lovely core, superb mineral drive and cut, laser-like focus and a long, still quite youthful finish. This is a beautiful bottle of Albariño in the making, but it really deserves a couple of years in the cellar to allow its secondary layers to emerge. 2023-2035.”

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Envinate Palo Blanco Canary Islands 2019 750ML ($67.95) $50.90 special, 7 bottles in stock now
John Gilman 94 points “The Palo Blanco bottling from Envínate is a relatively new cuvée for them, hailing from Listán Blanco vines that are more than a century old, growing on black volcanic soils in the braided fashion of Cordon Trenzado. The wines are pressed whole cluster, fermented in cement vats, do not go through malo and then age in twenty-five hundred liter foudres prior to bottling. The 2019 Palo Blanco delivers an excellent aromatic constellation of lemon peel, breadfruit, a bit of briny ocean breeze, volcanic minerality, lemongrass and a whisper of lavender in the upper register. On the palate the wine is precise, full-bodied and zesty, with superb focus and grip, a lovely core of fruit, outstanding mineral drive and a long, complex and very classy finish. This is stunning juice! 2021-2040+.”

Envinate ‘Benje,’ Canary Islands 2019 750ML ($39.95) $29 special, 12 bottles in stock now
Envinate ‘Benje,’ Canary Islands 2019 1.5L ($99.95) $79 special, 6 bottles in stock now
John Gilman 92 points “The 2019 Benje Tinto from Envínate is composed from its customary blend of Listán Prieto and Tintilla, sourced from several parcels all growing at one thousand meters of elevation. Each parcel is picked and fermented separately, before blending for malo and aging in older Burgundy barrels. The wine offers up a superb aromatic constellation of bitter cherry, green peppercorns, a very complex base of volcanic minerality, chicory, a wisp of tree bark, a fine array of botanicals and a smoky topnote. On the palate the wine is pure, fullish and tangy, with lovely intensity of flavor, fine soil signature and grip, modest tannins and a long, complex and promising finish. This is quite approachable today, but still fairly primary in personality and some bottle age will reveal more complexity. 2021-2050.”

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Envinate ‘Migan’ Tinto Vinos Atlanticos Tinto, Canary Islands 2019 750ML ($67.95) $51.90 special, 9 bottles in stock now
John Gilman 93+ points “The 2019 Migan Tinto from Envínate is composed from two different parcels of Listán Negro, with both vineyards grown in the traditional Cordon Trenzado of braiding the vines as they grow along the ground. The grapes are foot-trodden, with each parcel vinified separately prior to blending for malo in a combination of two hundred and twenty-five and six hundred liter, older French casks for eleven months of elevage. The bouquet wafts from the glass in a beautiful blend of sweet dark berries, bitter cherry, tree bark, gentle meaty tones, espresso, a gorgeous base of soil and a gentle topnote of botanicals. On the palate the wine is deep, fullbodied and transparent in personality, with a fine core, ripe tannins, bright acids and a long, soildriven and nascently complex finish. This is going to be outstanding, but it needs some bottle age to soften up those backend tannins a bit more and allow its layers of complexity to properly blossom. 2027-2055+.”

Envinate ‘Lousas’ Vinas de Aldea, Ribeira Sacra 2019 750ML ($49.95) $39 special, 20 bottles in stock now
Envinate ‘Lousas’ Vinas de Aldea, Ribeira Sacra 2019 1.5L ($99.95) $85 special, only 3 magnums available
John Gilman 93 points “The 2019 Viñas de Aldea from Envínate is a stunning young bottle of (primarily) Mencía in the making. This is Envínate’s blended bottling, made from various old-vine parcels planted on slate, with some of the parcels including five to ten percent of other local varieties co-planted in among the Mencía. The grapes are foot-trodden, fermented with indigenous yeasts, includes roughly half whole clusters and is raised in older casks for eleven months prior to bottling. The 2019 Viñas de Aldea offers up a pure and nascently complex bouquet of sweet dark berries, pomegranate, tree bark, espresso, a beautiful base of slate, graphite and a touch of sweet herb tones in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, ripe and tangy, with a superb core and mineral drive, ripe, buried tannins and a long, youthfully complex and perfectly balanced finish. This is more structured out of the blocks than the last couple of vintages have been at a similar stage of evolution, indicating the great aging potential of the 2019 vintage in Ribeira Sacra. It is certainly drinkable out of the blocks, but in this vintage, I would strongly suggest giving this beautiful wine three to five years in the cellar and really allow it to blossom properly, as it really is a bit more tannic out of the blocks than is customary. Great juice in the making. 2026-2060+.”

Daterra Lorenzo Portela Vento Ribeira Sacra 2018 750ML ($39.95) $31.90 special, 33 bottles in stock now
John Gilman 93 points “The Portela Do Vento Tinto is composed of a blend of Mencía and Garnacha Tintorera, selected from several different vineyard parcels in both Quiroga and Amandi. The grapes are mostly destemmed and fermented in stainless steel tanks, prior to racking to five hundred liter, used demi-muids for ten months of elevage. The 2018 Portela Do Vento comes in at a svelte twelve percent alcohol and delivers a beautiful, black fruity bouquet of cassis, dark berries, tree bark, coffee bean, slate, cigar smoke and just a touch of upper register botanicals. On the palate the wine is precise, full-bodied and tangy, with a lovely core of fruit, excellent slate undertow, fine-grained tannins and a long, complex, palate-staining and focused finish. This is pure, light on its feet and excellent! 2023-2045+.”

Viña Zorzal Graciano, Navarra 2018 750ml ($19.95) $16 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Case-6 Viña Zorzal Graciano, Navarra 2018 750ml ($119.95) $85 special (that’s only $14.67/bottle!) 
John Gilman 89 points “The 2019 Graciano from the Sanz brothers’ Viña Zorzal is aged in French oak casks, with twenty-five percent of the cuvée undergoing malolactic fermentation in barrels. This vintage comes in at 13.5 percent octane and delivers a beautifully precise and complex nose of red and black cherries, smoked meats, a fine base of soil, woodsmoke and just a touch of fresh herb tones in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and very well-balanced, with a fine core of fruit, good soil undertow, moderate tannins and a long, nascently complex and focused finish. It is already quite tasty, but I would suspect that more complexity will emerge with a bit of bottle age. This is very good juice and an excellent value! 2021-2035.”

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Nearly perfect Brunello for well under $100 per bottle.
La Fortuna Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG, Tuscany 2012 750ML ($119.95) $89 special, 36+ bottles in stock
Case-6 La Fortuna Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG, Tuscany 2012 750ML ($699.95) $515 special (that’s only $85.83/bottle!)
Wine Spectator 97 points “Perfumed, with wild herb aromas and a subtle mix of strawberry and cherry fruit. Vibrant and dense, with fine acidity driving the long finish. Though elegant, there is intensity and fine energy on the aftertaste. Best from 2022 through 2028.”

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“This wine’s Beaux Freres bloodline is very clear to see”
Sequitur Pinot Noir, Ribbon Ridge 2014 750ML ($119.95) $79 special, 19 bottles in stock now
Josh Raynolds–Vinous 94 points “Limpid ruby-red. Smoky, mineral-accented aromas of black raspberry, cherry cola and incense carry a strong spicecake overtone. Stains the palate with sappy red berry liqueur, spicecake and floral pastille flavors that are lifted and given definition and tension by juicy acidity. At once rich and nervy, with no excess fat but showing excellent depth and intensity of flavor. Finishes with sexy notes of candied violet and smoky Indian spices and superb, gently tannic persistence. This wine’s Beaux Freres bloodline is very clear to see.”
Wine Spectator 94 points “Broad and spicy, open-textured and generous, with ripe plum and currant flavors, shaded by pepper, sage and coffee notes as the finish sails past fine-grained tannins. Completely harmonious and made to age. Drink now through 2024.”

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One of the best buys in the Northern Rhone, at an even lower price.
Delas Frères Saint-Joseph Francois de Tournon, Rhône 2015 750ML ($44.95) $28 Subscriber Special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Case-6 Delas Frères Saint-Joseph Francois de Tournon, Rhône 2015 750ML ($279.95) $156 Subscriber Special (that’s only $26/bottle!)
Wine Advocate 93 points “Inky and concentrated, the 2015 Saint-Joseph Francois de Tournon is no easy-drinking Saint-Joseph. It’s smoky, herbal and ashy all at once, yet it’s buoyed by ample black cherry fruit and vibrant acidity. This medium to full-bodied Syrah has plenty of tannins, but they’re ultimately silky and most apparent on the long, licorice-tinged finish. This is approachable now but should be even better in 3 years and should drink well for at least another 10 after that.”
Jeb Dunnuck 93 points “Both Saint Joseph releases are brilliant in 2015. The 2015 Saint Joseph François De Tournon comes vines around Tournon, Mauves, Saint-Jean-de-Muzols, and Vion, and is always destemmed and aged in 30% new barrels. This full-bodied, rounded, sexy beauty shows the power and fruit of the vintage. With classic notes of black and blue fruits, violets, incense and pepper, drink this textured, expansive, terrific Saint Joseph over the coming 10-15 years.”

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The next lowest listed price is $39.99

A star of the excellent 2016 Barolo vintage.
G.D. Vajra ‘Coste di Rose’, Barolo DOCG 2016 750ML ($79.95) $59 special, 30 bottles in stock now
Wine Spectator 95 points “Dusty cherry, black currant, eucalyptus and hay aromas and flavors highlight this energetic red. There is purity to the beam of fruit, and while the structure is muscular, the lasting impression is of sweet fruit. Best from 2023 through 2045.”

Tignanello-style Tuscan at a Tuesday-night price.
Caiarossa ‘Pergolaia’ Toscana IGT 2016 750ML ($29.95) $26 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Wine Spectator 94 points “Flavors of black cherry and blackberry stand up to the dense tannins in this fresh, deep and intense red, but this is equally about the vibrant acidity driving the fruit, wild herb nuances and spice-infused aftertaste. Sangiovese with Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Best from 2022 through 2040. 4,700 cases made, 1,200 cases imported.”

A best value from the immaculate 2016 vintage in Bordeaux.
Château Lilian Ladouys, Saint-Estèphe 2016 750ML ($41.95) $36 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Case-6 Château Lilian Ladouys, Saint-Estèphe 2016 750ML ($239.95) $206 special (that’s only $34.33/bottle!)
James Suckling 93 points “The blueberry and blackberry aromas are certainly attractive here. Full-bodied and dense with a very velvety texture and a long, generous finish of ripe fruit and spice. Drink from 2022.”
Jeb Dunnuck 92 points “A perennial overachiever, the 2016 Château Lilian Ladouys brings the goods in 2016 and has a complex, medium to full-bodied, character-filled style to go with loads of blue fruits, incense, dried herbs, and a hint of violets. A blend of 62% Merlot, 32% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 6% Petit Verdot all raised in 30% new barrels, this charming, front end-loaded effort is well worth seeking out. It should keep for 10-15 years.”
Neal Martin – Vinous 92 points “This is the third time I have tasted the 2016 Lilian Ladouys in bottle. It retains a very intense blackberry and boysenberry bouquet laced with minerals, but displays a little more amplitude than it did in August. The tightly knit palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin and still shows the graphite seam that I remarked upon previously. There is a little more persistence now, hence the slightly higher score. Good potential.”

 

ETA May 14th

Chateau Les Mesclances “Faustine” La Londe Rose Côtes De Provence 2020 750ML ($39.95) $34.50 pre-arrival special
Rosenthal Wine note ““Faustine” Côtes de Provence La Londe Rosé The lone wine from the exceptional La Londe sub-appellation, Faustine receives the greatest care at vinification, with a full 15 hours of maceration for the Grenache, along with a saignée of Mourvedre and Syrah. Explosive aromas overlay a complex and noble structure that show clearly why this wine is a cut above the classic Cotes de Provence character.”

Les Mesclances Romane Rose Côtes De Provence 2020 750ML ($27.95) $24 pre-arrival special
Rosenthal Wine note ““Romane” Côtes de Provence Rosé From 20 year-old vines at the base of the hill overlooking the estate, the Romane is made up of 70% Grenache, along with Cinsault and Mourvedre, the latter of which provides a point of amertume (a fresh, bitter note) and a salinity that quickly draws one back to the wine. The Grenache spends a few hours macerating with the skins, providing an extra layer of depth and structure to this classic wine.”

Les Mesclances St Honorat Rose Côtes De Provence 2020 750ML ($29.95) $26 pre-arrival special

Chateau Simone Palette Rose 2019 750ML ($79.95) $69 pre-arrival special
Rosenthal Wine note “Chateau Simone Palette Rosé: The Château Simone Rosé is a wine that belies the notion that rosés are simple wines to be drunk up young. We have indulged ourselves with 10-year old Château Simone Rosé and have marveled at the tenacity, vibrancy and complexity of this very serious wine. The blend is identical to the rouge: 45% Grenache, 30% Mourvèdre, 5% Cinsault, 20% Syrah, Castet, Manosquin, Carignan, Muscat Noir & Blanc. Aged in barrel, it is powerful and age-worthy with a steely character and a grey-tinted aura to the faded rose-petal robe. We import, on average, 1500 bottles per annum for the US market.”

Chateau Soucherie Rose de Loire L’Astree 2020 ($25.95) $21.90 pre-arrival special
Rosenthal Wine note “Rosé de Loire: This dry, mineral-driven Rosé is produced from Grolleau (70%) and Gamay (30%). The vines are planted to clay, sandstone and schist soils. The wine is a product of the direct press method of vinification and the elevage is in cuve with bottling occurring usually in April of the spring following harvest. We purchase approximately 7800 bottles for the US market.”