New to the January Sale:
Serafin: Seriously Classy Gevrey
Top Pinot Noir from Burgundy and Oregon
High Scoring Rhone Gems, North and South
Value Champagne, Discounted Further
A Bevy of German Riesling
One of the Best Values in Barbaresco
New Year/New Sales
Serafin: Seriously Classy Gevrey
In an arena as competitive as Gevrey-Chambertin, where celebrity names like Rousseau and Dugat make some of the world’s finest wine, a small estate could easily be overlooked. Perhaps this provides the incentive that keeps Christian Serafin’s Pinots among the village’s best. Besides organic viticulture, low yields, and old vines, Serafin sticks to an idiosyncratic recipe in the cellar: total destemming, long cuvaisons, new and lightly used barrels. The wines exude terroir. Their richness and concentration beg cellaring, and the magic of the Cote de Nuits rewards such patience. This is serious Burgundy
We’ve got a wide range of Serafin bottlings from Gevrey, Chambolle, and Morey, regional to village to Premier Cru, in several different vintages—and to make them even better, we’re putting most of their wines in the January Sale at unreal prices. These are wines that belong in any Burgundy lover’s cellar, especially for these sorts of prices. If you want to see them on our webstore, you can click here or click here to see all the wines in our January Sale.
In Stock Now:
Serafin Pere & Fils Les Baudes, Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru 2011 750ML ($149.95) Was $99, Now $89 January Sale Special, 3 bottles in stock now
Stephen Tanzer 92 points “Bright, moderately saturated red. Spicy aromas of blackberry, licorice and violet. Tight and serious in the mouth, with dark berry and violet pastille flavors accompanied by strong coffee/mocha torrefaction. At once feminine and firm, finishing with sound tannins and acids. Very different in style from the Gevreys here.” ST
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Stephen Tanzer-Vinous 92 points “Healthy dark red. Superripe black cherry, blueberry and menthol on the nose. Rich, creamy and sweet, in a rather powerful style for this cuvée, but with a medicinal minerality energizing the mid-plate. Finishes with substantial but suave tannins that will require patience.”ST
The next best price is $114.94
Stephen Tanzer 88-90 points “Medium red. Smoky strawberry and a whiff of gibier on the nose. The palate shows an almost liqueur-like sweetness to the creamy flavors of red fruits, coffee and mocha. Sappy acidity and substantial tannins give shape to this lush village wine.” ST
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Stephen Tanzer 93 points “Moderately saturated medium red. Very reticent but pure aromas of redcurrant, dark cherry, earth, leather and spices. A dense, nicely balanced midweight, with ripe acidity giving shape to the cherry, licorice and espresso flavors. Firmly tannic but with plenty of thickness of texture to support its backbone. Finishes chewy and long but youthfully tight, with lovely aromatic persistence. I’d hold this until 2020.” ST
Stephen Tanzer–Vinous 92-94 points “Good bright, deep red. Reticent aromas of black cherry, minerals, mint and menthol. Densely packed, fresh and energetic, showing a strong spice character to its black cherry and mineral flavors. Has the thickness of texture to carry its tannins. Finishes spicy and long, with a lingering note of chocolatey oak. From a crop level of 38 hectoliters per hectare: Serafin made four barrels, compared to a normal five.” ST
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Wine Advocate 93 points “The 2014 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers has a lifted bouquet, very well defined with blackcurrant, black cherry, undergrowth and cold black tea aromas that gain intensity on the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, fine acidity, the oak neatly integrated here and allowing the terroir to show through on the clean, precise, minerally finish. This is just a lovely Gevrey-Chambertin from Serafin.”
Stephen Tanzer–Vinous 92 points “(this fruit is always picked at the end, noted winemaker Frédérique Bachotet): Bright, dark red-ruby. Very ripe cherry and chocolate scents. Wonderfully rich, deep wine with a restrained sweetness and noteworthy density to its flavors of redcurrant, spices and saline minerality. The terroir really speaks here. The long finish features lingering earth tones.”
Antonio Galloni 90-92 points “One of the real gems in this range, the Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes wraps around the palate with gorgeous depth and dimension. Violets, cloves and menthol meld into a core of dark fruit. The vintage has given the Vieilles Vignes an extra bit of volume that is hugely appealing. All the elements fall into place effortlessly. This voluptuous Gevrey should offer a wide window of fabulous drinking.” AG
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The next best price is $134.99
Wine Advocate 91-93 points “The 2012 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Corbeaux comes from 0.45-hectares of vines planted in 1968 by Christian’s father adjacent to Mazis-Chambertin. It has a precocious bouquet compared to the Vieilles Vignes, with scents of mulberry, dark plum and luscious black fruit that are tightly controlled. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly grainy entry. This is showing the oak a little more than the Vieilles Vignes at the moment, but there is sufficient concentration to absorb that with time. The linear finish, crisp and taut, bodes well for the future.” WA
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Stephen Tanzer 91 (+?) points “Moderately saturated medium red. Black cherry, raspberry and a whiff of meat on the nose, lifted by pungent pepper and blood orange treble notes. Less open than the village wine, showing lovely spicy lift to the flavors of red fruits and flowers. Juicy, elegant Gevrey with serious length and lingering spice character.” ST
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Wine Advocate 91-93 points “The 2012 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Fonteny comes from 0.33-hectares of vine planted in 1965. It has a somehow more “languid” bouquet, demonstrated a touch more fruit compared to the Corbeaux, the fruit erring more to red than black. The palate is rounded and velvety smooth on the entry with vibrant cassis and blackcurrant fruit, fine tannins and impressive presence towards the finish that continues long after the wine has departed. Excellent.” WA
Burghound 90-93 points –Outstanding — “Here too there is mild reduction which renders the nose difficult to assess in depth though again the underlying fruit appears to be ripe. There is excellent volume, power and a taut muscularity to the concentrated and mineral-tinged medium weight flavors that culminate in an austere, backward and highly persistent finish. This is very old school in style and will require ample patience for it to develop, yet will be well worth the wait.”BH
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The next best price is $134
Stephen Tanzer 91-93 points “Deep, spicy aromas of black cherry, violet, menthol and espresso. Densely packed and sappy, with a liqueur-like ripeness to the flavors of black cherry and mint. A rather rectilinear wine with a serious spine of dusty tannins that will require some aging. In a more structured, masculine style in 2012, like the Gevrey Vieilles Vignes and the Cazetiers.” ST
New to the January Sale
Top Pinot Noir from Burgundy and Oregon
Burghound 88 points “Here too there is a touch of herbal tea to the spicy nose of earth, red berries and sauvage hints. There is fine mid-palate density with obviously ripe supporting structure shaping the big and rich flavors that are very Nuits in basic character. This muscular and mildly austere effort should reward 7 to 9 years of cellar time.”
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The next best price is $64.79
Burghound 90-92 points “A completely different aromatic expression is present here with its spicy and perfumed nose of black raspberry, red cherry and plum. As one might reasonably expect there is a more refined mouth feel to the mineral-inflected medium-bodied flavors that display a hint of austerity on the balanced and lingering finish. Beaux Bruns is often a rather butch Chambolle and this example is consistent with that tendency.” BH
Antonio Galloni 95 points “Faiveley’s 2011 Corton Clos des Corton is a fitting conclusion to this great night of wine and food. Intensely saline and pointed, the 2011 impresses for its pure energy and tension. The flavors are vibrant and impeccably delineated in a Burgundy that is all about finesse. This is a great showing from the Clos des Corton.” AG
Stephen Tanzer 94 points “Medium red. Ineffable nose and palate offer red fruits, minerals, spices and flowers, complicated by game, earth and leather. Sweet, concentrated and very intense, boasting outstanding density and a fine-grained texture, with salty minerality giving the wine a weightless impression that’s remarkable considering its density. A strong tannic spine and brisk acidity energize and draw out the finish of this sharply delineated, pristine grand cru.” ST
Stephen Tanzer 92-94 points “Palish medium red. Medicinal red cherry, minerals, crushed stone, violet, rose petal and white pepper on the noble nose. Wonderfully silky and pure, with ineffable flavors of red fruits, spices, flowers and minerals. This is wonderfully delicate, and not a fleshy wine, yet saturates every square millimeter of the palate with flavor. The long, sweet, rising finish offers terrific cut and floral lift. Should make a worthy successor to the outstanding 2007, which also transcends its village. Hervet says that this will be bottled by hand, without filtration.”ST
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Burghound 94 points “Deep ruby. An intensely floral nose is composed of cool but ripe red pinot, dark currant and plenty of pungent earth scents. There is more size, weight, power and concentration to the imposingly constructed flavors that are both supported and shaped by the tightly wound and extremely firm tannins, all wrapped in a mouth coating and hugely persistent finish. This displays terrific potential but it is a robust wine to buy only if you have the wherewithal and patience to wait.”
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The next best price is $218
John Gilman 94+ points “Vineyards such as Bonnes-Mares really have taken advantage of the elegant side of the 2011 vintage, and this is doubly true of this stunning wine from Maison Jadot. The deep, sappy and simply gorgeous nose wafts from the glass in a mélange of black cherries, dark berries, woodsmoke, game, espresso, fresh herbs, stunningly complex soil tones and cedar. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and quite plush on the attack, with great mid-palate depth, laser-like focus, ripe, firm tannins and simply stunning length and grip on the still very young finish. Profound juice….94+”
Stephen Tanzer 93 points “Bright, deep red. Initially explosive aromas and flavors of cherry, menthol, incense and spices subsided in favor of blueberry, crushed stone and peppermint tea: very Bonnes-Mares! Wonderfully silky and scented in the mouth, displaying very good breadth but a light touch. Finishes with a broad, fine dusting of tannins and excellent length and lift. A compellingly perfumed and pure wine: am I greedy for wanting the flesh and sweetness of a warmer year?” ST
John Gilman 94+ points “Like the 2012 Echézeaux, the Clos Vougeot from Mongeard-Mugneret is supremely elegant out of the blocks this year. The superb bouquet is a mix of red plums, cocoa, cherries, gamebirds, a touch of nutskin, woodsmoke, a fine base of soil and spicy new wood. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, pure and complex with a sappy core of fruit, excellent focus and balance, velvety tannins and great style and grace on the long and youthfully complex finish. A great bottle of Clos Vougeot in the making. 2025-2075.” JG
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
Antonio Galloni 97 points “The 2008 Musigny Vieilles Vignes is a wine I could smell all day. The explosive bouquet literally jumps from the glass, followed by deep, beautifully delineated layers of fruit. This shows terrific concentration and depth, dazzling finesse, and a nicely pointed, direct finish. It is an eternal wine.”
Burghound 96 points “This is also quite reserved at present with an elegant, airy, cool and pure nose that is kaleidoscopically complex as it offers red currant, plum, black cherry and a panoply of floral and spice notes, in particular violet and anise, before marrying seamlessly into mineral-driven and alluring big-bodied flavors that explode on the powerful and almost painfully intense finish that delivers genuinely stunning length. I love the way Musigny can so effortlessly combine a silky palate impression with serious muscle. This should be quite impressive in time though note that it will need a minimum of 18 to 25 years of cellar time.”Averaen Meredith Mitchell Vineyard Pinot Noir, McMinnville 2016 750ML ($49.95) Was $36, Now $33 January Sale Special
Josh Raynolds 92 points “(20% whole clusters and 50% new French oak) Lurid red. Blackberry and boysenberry aromas are complicated by suggestions of cola and candied violet, and a smoky mineral note lends nervy lift. Incisive dark berry and bitter cherry flavors slowly gain flesh and become sweeter in the midpalate. Impressively precise and energetic, delivering strong finishing thrust and dusty, building tannins that make a late appearance.”
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The next best price is $46.99
Not all of the wines in the January Sale are Pinot Noir! Check out these brilliant bottles from the Northern and Southern Rhone, all with a bundle of points and at prices that will make you want to buy a bundle of each of them. If you want to see all 95+ wines in the January Sale, just click here to view the entire list on our web store.
In Stock Now:
M. Chapoutier Ermitage Le Pavillon, Rhone 2013 750ML ($249.95) Was $219, Now $189 January Sale Special
Wine Advocate 98+ points “The star of the show in 2013 is the 2013 Ermitage le Pavillon. Coming from the west and eastern edges of the Bessards lieu-dit and aged in 30% new French oak, its sensational black/blue color is followed by the awesome bouquet of cassis, smoked earth, graphite and caramelized meats that could come from no other terroir in the world. Full-bodied, massive, dense, sexy and with a liquid rock-like character that comes out with time in the glass, it has sweet tannin and a blockbuster finish that keeps you coming back to the glass. It needs 5-6 years of cellaring and will have 30-40 years of more of ultimate longevity.”
Josh Raynolds 96 points “Saturated ruby. Pungent, spice- and mineral-accented aromas of dark fruits, candied violet and licorice pick up a peppery topnote in the glass. Sappy, incisive and pure, offering vivacious, deeply concentrated black raspberry and boysenberry flavors and a spicy topnote. The endless finish shows superb clarity and power, harmonious tannins and a strong mineral quality.”
Wine Spectator 96 points “Racy and tightly coiled in feel, with a bright iron spine and tangy sanguine and pepper notes amid the core of cassis, bitter cherry and damson plum fruit. Shows terrific cut and precision. Minerality courses through the finish. Best from 2019 through 2030
Jeb Dunnuck 97 points “The finest vintage to date, the 2015 Gigondas Le Clos des Tourelles comes from a tiny vineyard located just inside the village of Gigondas. Incorporating a touch of Syrah, this Grenache dominated beauty reveals a deep ruby/purple color as well as off the chart notes of black raspberries, black cherries, pepper, garrigue, and tons of that classic Gigondas spice. I wrote “Wow” more than once in my notes and this full-bodied 2015 has ultra-fine tannin, perfect balance, and a stacked mid-palate. Give bottles 2-3 years and drink over the following 15+ years.”
Jeb Dunnuck 95 points “The 2015 Vinsobres Les Hauts De Julien comes from the Vinsobres region, which is a cooler terroir located in the northern part of the southern Rhône. Based largely on very old vine Syrah blended with Grenache, it offers a vibrant purple color as well as a sensational bouquet of blueberries, cracked pepper, violets, lavender, and exotic spices. Incredibly textured, full-bodied, deep, and opulent, with awesome purity of fruit, it’s another sensational vintage for this cuvée that would pass undetected in a blind lineup of top Cornas. Drink it anytime over the coming decade.”
New to the January Sale
Value Champagne, Discounted Further
These great Champagne picks have always been some of our favorites (and favorite values). We’re offering you even better deals on these beautiful bubbles through the end of January—perfect for stocking up for the year. (We all need to have a house Champagne, right?) If you want to see these wines and all of their January Sale peers, you can click here to view them in our web store.
Thierry Triolet Carte Noire Brut, Champagne NV 750ML ($44.95) Was $33, Now $29 January Sale Special
Josh Raynolds–Vinous 90 points “(90% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Noir; 10 g/l dosage): Light yellow. Vibrant, mineral-accented aromas of fresh citrus and orchard fruits, with suave floral and candied ginger notes adding complexity. Fleshy and broad on entry, then tighter in the mid-palate, offering juicy green apple and orange zest flavors and a touch of white pepper. Closes silky and smoky, with good clarity and length.”
Josh Raynolds–Vinous 91 points “Pale gold. Intense citrus and orchard fruit aromas are complicated by notes of honeysuckle, tarragon and iodine. Chewy tangerine and pear skin flavors become silkier and spicier with aeration. Shows a seductive floral quality on the clinging finish, which features a dusty mineral nuance and a touch of buttered toast.”
Importer note “The Dumont Brut NV is a blend of 90% Pinot Noir and 10% Chardonnay. The grapes from their vineyard have qualities that seem less aggressive and more sumptuous than those from the northern districts. In addition, vinification of whole berries at low temperatures enhances this quality of soft elegance. The NV is a blend of vintages typically between two and five years old. It is aged for two years on the lees before disgorgement. Dosage is 9 grams.”
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New to the January Sale
A Bevy of German Riesling
Wine Advocate 91+ points “Carob and toasted nuts inflect baked apple and vanilla on the nose of Selbachs’ block-picked 2011 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Rotlay, which comes to the palate expansive, creamy, and buoyant (at 8.5% alcohol), its apple joined by almost overripe Persian melon. Hints of pip and botrytis bitterness add interest, but there is not the subtle interaction of flavors or the layer of primary juiciness that rendered the corresponding Anrecht bottling so memorable, but instead a more dominantly honeyed, soothingly rich personality. This long-finishing beauty may well – as its author suggests – just need some time to reveal its multiple layers.”
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Wine Advocate 92 points “The 2015 Riesling Kirchberg ‘VDP Grosse Lage’ opens with a generous and warm, ripe Riesling aroma intertwined with some herbal and iron lemon flavors on the clear and elegant nose. This is a full-bodied, charming, finessed and elegant wine with fine tannin structure and a dry and persistent finish. Still young, the Kirchberg will benefit from further bottle aging.”
Mosel Fine Wines 92+ points “This wine is rather reduced but offers a gorgeously flowery nose of pear and Provence herbs. It proves superbly elegant on the palate where grip and saltiness define the aromatics. Great multi-layered complexity already comes through in the long and airy finish. This is still very primary and in need of bottle age to balance out but this beauty will easily turn into the most complete and elegant expression of Kirchberg we have taste to date. This is hugely impressive and has even some upside potential. 2018-2025.”
Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 91 points “The 2016 Riesling Kirchberg ‘VDP Grosse Lage’ is super ripe and flinty on the nose, with caramelly aromas. Pure, fresh and mineral, with a fine, mineral structure and lingering salinity, this is a tensioned Riesling with good phenolic structure.”
Wine Spectator 96 points “Candied citrus, jujube, sweet spice and quince paste aromas and flavors mark this sweet, bracing Riesling, which is light on its feet and resonates on the finish with a mouthwatering feel and echoes of citrus. Best from 2012 through 2045.”
Wine Advocate 95 points “Lowenstein’s 2007 Winninger Uhlen Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule Roth Lay (as in the corresponding dry wines, the letter “R” is prominent on the label of this A.P.#9) benefits from counterpoint and collaboration among bright citrus, rich pit fruit essences, and the honey of botrytis. For all of its enormous sheer ripeness and concentration, this retains a striking sense of delicacy. A snappy, spicy, pungent streak – taken together with vivid, diverse pit fruits and citrus – serves for exhilaration in a finish of memorable length and energy, with a vivid impression of crushed stone one hardly expects in a wine of such sweetness and prominent botrytization. There seems to be something of a personality role reversal at work this year, because the corresponding Rottgen Auslese is cool and refined whereas this Uhlen displays more of the piquancy and (as French growers might say) nervosite that I associate with Rottgen. But then, botrytis is always something of a wild card, so that a wine like this is profoundly and unpredictably influenced by the precise microclimatic conditions for and differences in the nature of that fungus. No doubt this too will be worth following for two or more decades.”
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Wine Advocate 93 points “Lowenstein’s 2010 Winninger Uhlen Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule Roth Lay – destined for auction – displays an almost sweaty aromatic alliance of salinity and musky pungency, along with nose-prickling lemon rind such as one might expect from an Eiswein. Suggestions of marigold and narcissus add to the exotic, pungent muskiness on display here. Fig and peach preserves; pear drops; marzipan and salted caramel intensely mark the palate, while zesty, musky, and saline mineral impingement serve for strikingly persistent stimulation. Despite its lower (7.5%) alcohol, though, this comes off not only as more viscous but also less buoyant (let alone “uncannily” so) than its Rottgen counterpart. That wine is an example of botrytis performing its magic and leaving nary a fingerprint behind, whereas here, prints are quite evident, even if fascinatingly smudge-free. This compellingly complex concentrate will not be everybody’s cup of nobly rotten Riesling, but ought to merit at least the better part of two decades attention.”
Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 93 points “The 2016 Riesling Röttgen ‘VDP Grosse Lage’ is pure and flinty on the nose, with bright fruit and mineral aromas on the nose. On the palate, this is a piquant, fresh and well structured as well as intense and persistent Riesling with cacao flavors in the finish. Terribly fresh and piquant, this is a remarkable Riesling. Tasted February 2018.”
David Schildknecht – Vinous 89 points “A penetrating and unusual aromatic mélange features zesty grapefruit, gooseberry, lemon peel, dill and musky floral perfume. Full-bodied and glycerol-rich, this finishes with strongly alkaline and stony undertones as well as fruit pit piquancy and fenugreek pungency, its tart elements contributing slight edginess but also undeniable invigoration. This is serious stuff for an intro-level wine, even if “serious” also implies a certain lack of charm. I suspect that bottle development will provide further fascination.”
“The 2015er Trocken Schieferterrassen is made from the Estate’s holdings in Winningen (Domgarten, Brückstück and Hamm) and Kobern (Fahrberg and Weissenberg) as well as from declassified fruit from its “cru” vineyards. It offers a gorgeous nose of marzipan, herbs and spices. The wine is delicately baroque and full of character on the palate as ripe yellow fruits are nicely complemented by spicy herbs and a hint of tartness in the finish. 2018-2025” –Mosel Fine Wines
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Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 89 points “The 2016 Riesling “Schieferterrassen” is ripe and flinty on the nose, spicy and piquant, with lingering salinity and intense fruit on the palate. Tensioned and stimulating, with good ripeness, but a lush and elegant wine.”
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Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 93+ points “The 2016 Riesling Uhlen B ‘VDP Grosse Lage’ is pure, fresh and rich at the same time, with flinty aromas on the nose. Full-bodied, precise and piquant on the palate, this is an elegant, fresh and salty Riesling with a lot of tension and length. Powerful. Long.”
Mosel Fine Wines 92 points “This offers a gorgeous nose of candied grapefruit zest, some star fruit, ripe pear and apple, all wrapped into the telltale classy touch of fine spices and herbs so typical of the Estate. The wine is medium-bodied on the palate and leaves a beautifully pure, spicy and mineral-loaded feel in the long and delicately powerful finish. This is a gorgeous wine in the making with a hint of power and nice saltiness in the after-taste.”
Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 93 points “From a slate soil with 10% chalk, the 2016 Riesling Uhlen L ‘VDP Grosse Lage’ shows licorice, flinty and bright fruit aromas on the nose. Juicy, piquant and tensioned on the palate, this is an intense and complex Riesling with lush and intense fruit. The finish is long and promising. Tasted February 2018.”
Mosel Fine Wines 92+ points “This offers a stunning even if still rather reduced nose of pear, grapefruit, start fruit, ginger and smoky elements. The wine is beautifully balanced on the palate, where creamy fruits are nicely wrapped into a hint of acidity and some superb mineral and herby elements. The delicately powerful after-taste oozes refinement, under-toned freshness and multi-layered complexity. This is a gorgeous Uhlen L in the making and one with great upside potential as the wine gains in elegance at maturity.”
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Wine Advocate 95-97 points “Tasted from the barrel and still dusty in its ripe golden color, the 2015 Riesling Uhlen R ‘VDP Grosse Lage’ (which is always bottled late) combines super ripe, rich and intense tropical fruit aromas (pineapples) with the spicy flavors of red (iron-rich) slate. The palate, however, is stunningly pure and finessed, highly elegant and almost light whereas the finish is very long, full of salt, grip and tension. A great promise!”
Mosel Fine Wines 94 points “This delivers an stunning nose with great depth, cool aromatics and finesse as notes of spices, mint, dried herbs, white peach, citrus peel and smoke and flowery elements emerge from the glass. The wine starts on the cool and fresh side on the palate, and only gradually develops its structure and intensity as it unfolds. It offers great length and intensity without ever being overpowering. The after-taste is just subtly and delicately tart. This dry Riesling is quite a tour de force and amply confirms our initial high expectations from cask (see Issue No 32 for the initial tasting note). 2022-2035.”
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Wine Advocate 91 points “The 2015 Riesling Von Blauem Schiefer opens with a beautifully clear and slatey bouquet of perfectly ripe Riesling flavors. The wine is round, piquant and salty on the palate, reveals picture book finesse and transparency and is extremely stimulating in its dry but perfectly balanced finish. The aftertaste is pretty long and already complex. If you are looking for a picture book wine of the terraced Lower Mosel, this is the one you have to taste. Thirteen percent of alcohol can hardly taste lighter and more stimulating.”
David Schildknecht – Vinous 90 points “Scents of fennel and basil along with intimations of crushed stone set the stage for a relatively cool, restrained set of flavors. Yet the palate is richly textured, lush and expansive. Piquant and incisive notes of lemon peel and mustard seed offer invigoration on a soothingly yet stimulatingly sustained finish suffused with cooling green herbs and vividly underlain with wet stone. The primary sources for this “blue slate” bottling are nowadays the Weisenberg and Fahrberg, immediately upstream from the Uhlen (which is divided between the communes of Winningen and Kobern), along with vineyards in Klotten, a good 20 miles upstream from Kobern, that are farmed by the family of a former Heymann-Löwenstein stagiaire.”
Wine Advocate 93 points “Very clear, discreet and refined on the nose – where the 2013 Eitelsbacher Karthauserhofberg Riesling GG displays fine stone and fruit aromas of lemons and green apples. Lean and vital but also intense, rich and juicy on the palate, this is a lovely pure, straightforward, piquant and very salty expression of the Karthäuserhofberg terroir and the 2013 vintage. This long-distance runner has more fruit intensity than the Edition and reveals a very fine raciness and a complex finish with lingering lemon aromas.” WA
John Gilman 93+ points “The 2013 Grosses Gewächs is showing as beautifully this year as it did a year ago, wafting from the glass in a salty constellation of tart pear, pink grapefruit, plenty of smokiness, dried flowers, a touch of lemongrass and lovely slate-driven salinity. On the palate the wine is pure, fullish and absolutely seamless, with fine youthful complexity, a lovely core, bright acids and a very long, refined and racy finish. This is a touch lower in alcohol than the 2014 version (11.5 versus twelve percent), but is just a tad more tightly-knit and complete. A fine bottle in the making. 2020-2050. 93+.”
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The next best price is $64.95
Grapelive 93 points “Deep, golden and mature in character, the opulent and beautiful 2004 Münsterer DautenpflänzerSpatlese from Kruger-Rumpf is in a wonderful window. It may just be the peak period for this vintage with layers of apricot, quince jelly, candied pineapple, marmalade notes and vinous textural charm along with nice salinity, mineral, rose led florals and light earthy and petrol fume notes in a classic Nahe Riesling. In recent years I’ve been lucky enough to have been able to re-visit some 2004’s and they have really blossomed, losing the year’s awkward form, going from an almost an ugly duckling into a swan in bottle with age. This is especially true in some late releases by Schlossgut Diel and this Weingut Kruger-Rumpf Münsterer Dautenpflänzer Spatlese, both of which can still be found if you look, a well worth it exercise. The VDP Grosse Lage (Grand Cru) Münsterer Dautenpflänzer, a tiny parcel within Kapellenberg, is set on quartzite and loess-clay based soils, which in my humble opinion highlights fruit detail and brings out a yellow fruit profile along with crystal clear mineral intensity with this wine bringing out baked peach core on the palate with hints of honey, fig and liquid stone. Georg Rumpf is moving towards organic in most of the vines with his vineyards being farmed to sustainable practices with hand harvesting employed to ensure that only optimally ripe grapes are selected. There is intense attention to detail here. I was here at harvest in 2016 and saw the team in action as well as the vines, which are steep and well cared for. Rumpf goes for native (spontaneously with ambient yeast) on the cru trockens (dry) and fruity (off-dry and sweeter) Rieslings and he uses large old stuckfass (oak casks) with extended lees aging. This all adds to the wines purity, extract and concentrated depth. This such a steal, I highly recommend searching for a few bottles, drink now.”
Terry Theise notes “Pittersberg is the other of the top Crus, and this site is more classic and less mischievous than its neighbor. Stefan refers only to “slate” and very often the wine smells just like Mosel wine – in fact just like Graacher Himmelreich. “In parts dusty loam over slate,” according to the textbook. Pittersberg is related to the Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg, which is just over the Rhine less than two miles north, though without the Taunus-quartzite of the Rheingau site. Diel’s great Pittermännchen is also on slate; I’m sure the similar names are not coincidence. Pittersberg gives firm, nutty Rieslings.”
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John Gilman 91-92 points ‘The 2014 Ayler Kupp Kabinett from Florian Lauer is really a lovely and quite classic example of this Prädikat, with lovely acidity and minerality providing a fine filigree to the wine and a nice sense of reserve out of the blocks as well. The very classy nose wafts from the glass in a mix of green apple, tart orange, slate, lovely smokiness and a touch of dried flowers in the upper register. On the palate the wine is medium-bodied, pure and focused, with a good core, bright acids, a nice touch of sweetness on the attack and lovely length and grip on the elegant and nascently complex finish. This is quite approachable now, but still a touch primary, and I would be inclined to give it at least a few years in the cellar to develop its secondary layers of complexity. 2019-2035+.” JG
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New to the January Sale
Ca’ del Baio
One of the Best Values in Barbaresco
Ca’ del Baio ‘Autinbej’, Barbaresco DOCG 2015 750ML ($34.95) $28 January Sale Special
Case-12 Ca’ del Baio ‘Autinbej’, Barbaresco DOCG 2015 750ML ($419.95) $299 January Sale Special (that’s only $24.92/bottle!)
James Suckling 94 points “Sweet berry and cherry aromas with hints of flowers following through to a full body, with lots of fruit and chewy tannins. A long and rich finish. Needs four to five years of bottle age. Try in 2022.”
Wine Spectator 93 points “A briny mineral note in the aroma signals this high-tension red. There is ample fruit and flesh on the palate, with cherry, strawberry, stone and white pepper flavors. Tightens up again on the finish. Best from 2021 through 2038.”
Wine Spectator 94 points “This red combines beautiful cherry, strawberry and floral aromas and flavors with a firm, dense structure in an aerial style, with fleeting accents of tar, mineral and underbrush leading to a racy finish. Best from 2022 through 2040.”
James Suckling 93 points “Complex aromas of tea, berries, bark and sweet tobacco follow through to a full body with chewy and dusty tannins. A long and flavorful finish. Tannic. Needs to soften. Try in 2020.”
January Sale Roundup