New Arrivals
Chris Gorman is a wine industry lifer who has been turning out some of the most sought after wines from Washington State since 2002. Done in a full bodied, take no prisoners style, Gorman makes wines for lovers of Washington wines. The “Old Scratch” is labeled as a GSM, but could be labeled as a Syrah, as it makes up 90% of the blend and hews to the Gorman style that made the winery famous.
The Old Scratch is made up of fruit from some of the finest vineyards in Washington–Klipsun, Boushey, Lonesome Springs and Kiona, and has all of the love and care that Gorman puts into their higher end Syrahs. They only made 550 cases of this beauty and at this price, it’ll disappear pretty quickly.
Gorman Winery Old Scratch GSM, Columbia Valley 2015 750ML ($31.95) $28 special
Wine Spectator 93 points “Lively and full of personality, with raspberry, smoked pepper and orange peel aromas that open to zesty, layered red plum and licorice flavors that move at a snappy pace toward the finish. Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre. Drink now through 2024.—T.F.”
#42 Wine of the Year Wine Spectator Top 100 2017
Colene Clemens Dopp Creek Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley 2014 750ML ($39.95) $24 special
Wine Spectator 91 points “Firm and focused, with cinnamon notes floating around red berry and floral flavors, finishing with gentle persistence against lively acidity and fine tannins. Best from 2018 through 2022. 3,100 cases made.”
Terry Theise note “Base of 2014, it’s 75% CH, 13% PN and 10% still red PN. Disg 12/2016, this is a sheer version of this dewy-fruited being, all class and spring water purity. It’s as pretty as strawberries you never forgot because they were so divine.”
Stephen Tanzer 93+ points “Bright pale yellow. Penetrating mineral aromas of crushed stone and oyster shell, with a hint of ripe grapefruit in the background. Wonderfully juicy and vibrant if youthfully taut, offering uncanny intensity and tactility for the vintage. Finishes saline and extremely long, with notes of lime, oatmeal and powdered stone. This palate-staining wine left my salivary glands quivering. Dauvissat does a vendange entier, practically no debourbage and almost no stirring of the lees.”
Wine Advocate 92 points “Tasted blind at the Burgundy 2011 horizontal tasting in Beaune. I must confess that Dauvissat’s 2011 Chablis 1er Cru La Fôrets completely caught me out, but his wines are notoriously difficult to taste blind when young. The nose is a moody old bugger, like trying to wake up your snoozing grandpa in his comfy chair. Rather than a lack of intensity, I just think this is stubborn and backward. The palate has a twist of bitter lemon on the entry and this is where the action is, with touches of white pepper and dried herbs infusing the finish that still seems insulted that it would be assessed blind. The ignominy! Having forwarded by desultory mark, naturally the wine opens and begins to motor.”
Burghound 92 points “A beautifully layered nose features plenty of classic Chablis character on the notes of ripe citrus, sea breeze, dried flowers, quinine and mineral reduction. The punchy medium-bodied flavors are built on a base of minerality that adds lift to the tension-filled finish that coats the mouth with acid buffering dry extract. This is still relatively tight but not so much that it couldn’t be enjoyed if decanted for 30 minutes first – that said I would be inclined to allow this to sit in a cool cellar for another 3 to 5 years as it’s clear that it’s still on the way up. Tasted twice this year with similar results.”
Dauvissat-Camus La Forest, Chablis Premier Cru 2010 750ML ($134.95) $119 special
Antonio Galloni 94 points “Vincent Dauvissat’s 2010 Chablis La Forest, which we ordered by the half-bottle, was superb. Just as fabulous as I remembered it, the 2010 captured the essence of the vintage in its combination of intense fruit and equally vibrant acidity. With time in the glass the 2010 seemed to become more mineral, tense and focused. What a beautiful wine.”
Wine Advocate 94 points “There is something elusive about the 2010 Chablis La Forest, but a serious core of fruit lies behind the feminine, sensual bouquet. White peaches, mint, jasmine and crushed rocks are layered into the sleek, silky finish. Once again, the Forest is all about understatement and class. This is another superb, incisive 2010 from Dauvissat. I also tasted the 2002, which is just entering its early maturity. As delicious as it is, I don’t expect the 2002 Forest to be extremely long lived by the estate’s standards. Anticipated maturity: 2015+. ”
Burghound 93 points “Outstanding – This is also beautifully perfumed with pretty notes of ripe but cool and airy aromas that are comprised largely of classic Chablis scents. The broad-shouldered flavors are impressively rich and possess excellent volume on the intensely mineral, bone dry and explosive finish that goes on and on. I very much like the balance and this has everything it needs to age successfully for years if desired. Terrific.”
Wine Advocate 92 points “The 2010 Chablis Sechets is all about intensity. In this vintage, the Sechets impresses for its persistence and multi-dimensional personality. The slightly angular contours typical of the wine are present, but there is so much fruit that they are barely perceptible. An attractive, spiced note adds complexity on the finish. I also tasted the 1993, which was flat-out stunning, with many fine years of drinking still left. I only wished I owned it. Anticipated maturity: 2013.”
Burghound 92 points “Outstanding – An elegant and extremely pure nose of citrus, stone and sea breeze where the latter two elements also characterize the rich, full-bodied and solidly well-concentrated flavors that are blessed with an abundance of dry extract that confers a textured quality to the seductive and saline-infused finish that displays impeccable balance. Despite the impressive size and weight this is actually quite fine; indeed I would even go so far as to call this a wine of finesse.”
Importer note: 30 year old vines grown in deep clay soil. Thierry Glantenay has taken over at his family domaine and is now producing exquisite, ethereal Volnay and full, powerful Pommard from many of the best terroirs. They farm their own vines and make their own wines ensuring the best available quality. Across the board these wines are precise, focused and reflective of their underlying terroir, with great sappiness and depth in the mid-palates, coupled with brilliant structural integrity that makes them, to me, amongst the finest wines made in the southern half of Burgundy.
VinopolNote: From 80+ year old vines, farmed sustainably. Les Beaux-Monts is a premier cru vineyard that is just north of Richbourg and above Suchots and Echezeaux. The Desaunay-Bissey vines are some of the oldest in the vineyard and represent an outstanding value for Vosne premier cru.
VinopolNote: From 80+ year old vines, farmed sustainably. The bulk of the holdings of the estate are in the village of Vosne and the wines show the touch of someone who has lots of experience with these wines. A really superb villages level Vosne.
Importer note: 55 year old vines grown in clay-limestone soils. 100% whole cluster fermentation from vines trained on the old Cordon Royat system. Herbicides are never used [in the vineyard] and the soils are regularly ploughed. Minimal use of sulphur. Elevage is in oak, 20% new.
VinopolNote: 50%Pinot Noir, 50% Gamay from the hillsides of Burgundy. This represents the entry level wine from the domaine and is a delicious vin de soif that drinks especially well in 2015.
Robert Parker 96 points “Dense purple, with classic notes of cedar and lead pencil shavings as well as gobs of back currants and licorice, the wine has a full-bodied mouthfeel with fabulous precision and density. It also possesses a long, silky finish with moderately high tannins, but they are ripe and well-integrated. The wood is clearly pushed to the background in this dense, full-bodied Pauillac, which should drink beautifully for 30+ years.”
Chateau Viella Tradition, Madiran 2015 750ML ($17.95) $14 special
Case-12 Chateau Viella Tradition, Madiran 2015 750ML ($169.95) $144 special (that’s only $12/bottle!)
Vinopolnote “60% Tannat, 40% Cabernet Franc. This wine is a better behaved than most of the wines we’ve tasted from Madiran, with rich and ripe black cherry and plum fruit plus a touch of earth. Though it screams for cassoulet or something rich, this would also be a great wine to drink outside with grilled foods.”
Wine Spectator 95 points “This is dreamy, with creamed melon, pear and green fig flavors gliding along, framed by light
brioche and meringue flavors. The long finish just lets the fruit hang beautifully. Offers refined opulence. Drink now through 2022.”
Wine Advocate 93 points “The outstanding 2001 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Barberini (a blend of 40% Grenache, 40% Syrah, and 20% Mourvedre aged 24 months in 40% small barrels and 60% neutral wood foudres) boasts an inky/ruby/purple color in addition to a big, sweet nose of creme de cassis, melted licorice, graphite, smoke, and truffles. Full-bodied, lush, and expansively flavored, with tremendous purity as well as density, this brilliant 2001 is already starting to strut its stuff.”
Antonio Galloni 96 points “The 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Collezione Privata is superb. A delicate, nuanced wine in this vintage, the Cabernet Sauvignon speaks in hushed tones. Silky tannins and highly expressive aromatics add to an impression of total finesse. In many vintages, the Cabernet can be quite big, but not in 2013. This is a brilliant showing from Isole and proprietor Paolo De Marchi.”
The average price nationally is $72
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 92 points “Darkly saturated and rich in personality, the 2012 Brunello di Montalcino offers an immediate and approachable expression of the grape. Your palate yearns for succulent bistecca alla fiorentina with roasted potatoes on the side—all of it drenched in olive oil. That’s because the wine is so upfront and soft even at this young stage in its evolution. This Brunello is soft in texture and mouthfeel, yet it offers loads of chewy fruit and enough bright acidity to pair with whatever you have on the menu tonight.”
Calabretta ‘Cappuccio’ Rosso Terre Siciliane IGT, Sicily 2013 750ML ($39.95) $33 special
Importer note “Since the winery’s founding in 1900, the Calabretta family has farmed and produced wines from Etna’s ancient indigenous varieties—including Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio—in the mountain’s unique noble vineyards. Historically, the family had sold its wine in sfuso or in barrel to restaurants and to private customers, many of whom travelled long distances to pick up their wine. But in 1997, third and fourth-generation father and son Massimo and Massimiliano Calabretta decided to bottle their best wine under their own label to ensure the winemaking traditions of their family and Etna would not be lost.”
Mosel Fine Wines 89 points “The 2016er Riesling Trocken is made from young vines and declassified fruit in the Hofberg and fermented in stainless steel. It delivers a gorgeous and nicely undercooled nose of greengage, white peach and pear with a great touch of ginger and white flowers to boot. The wine proves gorgeously smooth and elegant on the palate and leaves a stunning feel of refinement in the finish. This wine cruises far above the usual standards of a “mere” Estate wine! Now-2026”
“My fave! It’s the GG with the nerd glasses. Threads and skeins and capillaries of nuance; herbs, mineral…interior beauty. A wine of wet gray trees, and the air is moist with all the green of the woods. Cerebral need not mean bloodless; this wine is enthralling in its intricate Gregorian purity.”–Terry Theise
Grapelive 95 points “One of my favorite Rieslings of the 2016 vintage so far is Spreitzer’s dense Jesuitegarten Alte Reben. Think of it as a more generous GG with a touch of off-dry lustiness with a rich character and amazing focus! From vines not far from the Rhein on a mix of loess, sand and gravel, the Jesuitegarten benefits from an almost lake effect. This site sits near the river’s widest point and its vines ripen earlier here, making for opulent Rieslings, but still with vibrant acidity and crystalline minerality. Less fruity than the Kabinett and Spatlese, the Alte Reben Jesuitegarten feels dry on the palate, but has what I call lush intensity with an almost full body feel. As Terry Theise says, it’s chewy, and it drinks like a red wine with the massive extract and structure adding a counter weight to the lavish fruit core. Regardless of what this wine is labeled, it’s a Grand Cru class white with gorgeous detail and length. This Riesling is beautiful, curvy and tom boy like, just think of Scarlett Johansson in a glass. The 2016 Spreitzer Feinherb Jesuitegarten Alte Reben is riveting from start to finish with a heady bouquet of spring flowers, sea shore and citrus which leads to a textured palate of green apple, mango, pineapple, lime sorbet, apricot and white cherry fruits with hints of saline/brine, wet stones, spiced herbal tea, verbena, sweet melon flesh, rosewater and lingering tangerine. This open and stylish Riesling delivers a rush of elegant pleasure and should go decades. This is super impressive and a value. If you’ve not had Spreitzer in recent vintages you are missing out. My visit to the winery last fall was mind-blowing and while I thought 2015 raised their game to the next level, these 2016 wines take it even further. Andreas and Bernd are killing it! Imported by Terry Theise and Skurnik Wines, these 2016 Spreitzer’s are coming online as I speak, but with the GG’s coming later in the year, these are seriously awesome Rieslings, especially this Jesuitegarten Feinherb.”
Terry Theise note “On the rich side of the designation, but this obdurately solid wine needs it. This is Rheingau at its chewiest, and so dignified it is almost haughty. It smells like violets but isn’t “flowery.” The kind of wine we find impressive.”
The next best price is $34.80
Terry Theise note “A Theise exclusive! (Similar to the wines I get from Catoir and Diel.) It’s a dry-enough Riesling at an attractive price, and it’s fine old-school Mosel, and a lot more joy is about to arrive on your doorstep. And I know this because every single prototype-blend we tasted was good. That is rare, and shows the quality of the base wine.”
Mosel Fine Wines 92+ points “This offers a gorgeous nose of pear, earthy spices and some citrusy grapefruit elements in the background. The wine proves gorgeously well balanced on the palate, where a delicately smooth side is nicely wrapped into zesty acidity. The finish is all about pear-infused fruit purity and finesse and one is left with a great mouth-watering playfulness in the after-taste. This could ultimately exceed our expectations if the fresher side takes the upper hand at maturity. 2026-2041”
Weingut Willi Schaefer Graacher Himmerlreich Riesling Kabinett, Mosel 2016 750ML ($37.95) $33 special
Mosel Fine Wines 90+ points “This offers a gorgeous nose of melon, herbs and spices, with a citrusy and peachy element only lurking in the background at this (early) stage. The wine proves nicely playful and delicately zesty on the palate and leaves a nice feel in the hugely complex and elegant finish. This only needs time to develop its full potential. It could ultimately exceed our expectations if the fresher side takes the upper hand at maturity. 2026-2041.”
Weingut Willi Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spatlese #10, Mosel 2016 750ML ($44.95) $39 special
Mosel Fine Wines 92 points “This offers a gorgeous nose of pear, candied lemon, spices and herbs. The wine proves gorgeously elegant and pure on the palate. Unlike in other vintages, the fruity side of the Domprobst is already present and adds to the wine’s early charm. The finish is all about silk, finesse and delicacy. This gorgeously light Spätlese is all about elegance. 2026-2041”
Terry Theise note: “As always this wine is civil, genial, smart and delicious; the ’15 shows less dust and more sweet fruit than some vintages.”
The average price is $26
Case-12 Rotllan Torra Crianza, Priorat DOCa 2013 750ML ($249.95) $199 special (that’s only $16.58/bottle!)
Vinopolnote: Rotllan Torra has been turning out some of our favorite wines from Priorat for a few years now and they’re unparalleled in their combination of affordability and deliciousness. Just as importantly, they don’t seem to sacrifice their identity—these wines taste like Priorat, not some generic spoofy international red. Roughly one-third each Cabernet Sauvignon, Garnacha and Carignan, it’s a wine equally at home with a roast chicken as it is by itself after a long day.
AKA German January Clearance Sale
We’ve offered a bunch of great deals on some German Riesling this month, from basic, QbA estate wines to epic Grosses Gewächs bottlings. The wines of Germany represent some of the best deals in the world of fine wine at their normal prices, so this makes them—extra deals? Seriously, the quality levels here do not match the prices, in any way, shape or form. This is just a selection of all the wines we’ve put on sale, just head to our website, www.vinopoliswineshop.com, to see all our great prices on German wines.
Newly Added Clearance Wines:
Weingut Hirsch Kammerner Grub Gruner Veltliner Erste OTW Lage Reserve, Kamptal 2013 750ML ($59.95) Was $49, Now $39 special
Weingut Hirsch Kammerner Grub Gruner Veltliner Erste OTW Lage Reserve, Kamptal 2013 1.5L ($119.95) Was $99, Now $89 special
David Schildknecht–Vinous 91 points “After following this pithy, piquant, tightly coiled and firm yet lees-inflected bottling for a year, it seems to clearly be the Hirsch 2013 that has the farthest to travel before it reveals its full potential. Burly tobacco and black tea convey a smoky aura that intriguingly complements flavors of roasted beet root, apple and kohlrabi. The finish is impressively gripping and stony if as yet slightly undifferentiated.”
Terry Theise notes “This is a heat-trap in the declivity between the Gaisberg and Heiligenstein hills, and it gives a very meaty wine, often too meaty for me. Gobelsburg offers it also, and I show you maybe one in three vintages. This one is a big, dense boulder of minerality, stocky and brooding. It has some of the power of the 2003 Lamm, and is loaded with brown-bread and sorghum. More Wachau than Kamptal, but curiously compelling.”
Wine & Spirits Magazine 91 points “Kirchenstuck is named for the church (kirche) that fronts it, but it could just as well be kirschenstuck (cherry-piece), this is so redolent of pale red berries. It falls toward the lighter end of Auslese, the sugar more rounding than sweetening, with salty mineral and rose petal notes confirming the delicacy. Try it with pork dusted with sumac or other richly spiced dishes.”
Terry Theise note “Savagely fine vineyard fragrance, a city made of cherry blossom. The palate is literally stunning in the ferocity of its terroir, endlessly salty and flowery, already expressive and integrated, and lashing and electric… Every year for the last fifteen or more, this wine has been a masterpiece, and I can think of few if any parallels in the wine world—or in my wine world—of such sustained stellar performance year after year.”
Weingut Eugen Muller Forster Kirchenstuck Riesling Auslese, Pfalz 2012 500ML ($34.95) Was $29, Now $24 special
Terry Theise: “Every year for the last fifteen or more, this wine has been a masterpiece, and I can think of few if any parallels in the wine world- or in my wine world- of such sustained stellar performance year after year. 2011 is and remains a masterpiece of the exotic flowery style, “a city made of cherry blossom” as I wrote last year. Bearing in mind that these wines are never very sweet, this one is more typical for the “Auslese” idiom. The 2012, though, is a swollen subterranean wave of mineral. You start at OMG and end with WTF, because even in the context of so many great years this is singular and amazing. Fantastically salty and cherry-blossomy, with obdurate length and deeply embedded mineral.”
VinopolNote on Urziger Wurzgarten: The Urziger Wurzgarten, or ‘spice garden’ is an intensely steep, iron-rich red slate vineyard. Though it’s located right next to the Erdener vineyards, the Ürziger wines are vastly different: the volcanic soils and favorable drainage lead to an earthy, spice-laden, tropical fruit-tinged wine.
Wine Advocate 92 points “The 2014 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese indicates a higher proportion of botrytis, which delivers a rich and concentrated, yet very clear fruit with coffee bean and ripe pip aromas. Very elegant and finely piquant on the palate, this is a nicely succulent and perfectly balanced Spätlese with a long, salty finish–and a good complexity and structure. I would recommend drinking this excellent Sonnenuhr no earlier than 2021.”
Wine Advocate 94+ points “The 2014 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Rotlay offers a superbly clear and concentrated bouquet with tropical fruit aromas (mango, pineapples) and fine botrytis. Picked with 110° Oechsle, this is a sweet, piquant, highly elegant and refined Riesling with a lingering purity and salinity, as well as the repetition of the tropical fruit aromas of the nose. With great finesse and concentration, this is quite noble and expressive Riesling.”
The next best price is $44.20
The average price is $46
Wine Advocate 93 points “Located next to the Goldloch the 2012 Dorsheimer Burgberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs comes from a 3.8 ha vineyard where Diel holds 1.8 hectares. The quartzite of the soil shines through here on the nose as on the palate and makes this a really great, precise, mineral and unique Riesling with some similarities to the Schloss Johannisberg Rieslings which are also grown on quartzite. The aroma is very pure, coolish and earthy in its flintiness and there is also a refreshing dash of lime juice. The purity is also to be found on the palate which is breathtakingly elegant but also firm and leading to a stimulatingly salty and persistent finish. This is Riesling for terroir fetishists and the aging potential should be terrific here. This wine is so full of tension that I almost can’t go to the next wine…”RP
Stephen Tanzer 91 points “($81) Tropical fruit, persimmon and lemon oil on the nose, with a floral twist. Intense, full-bodied papaya fruit is highlighted by flinty minerality. Rich and concentrated on the finish. A bit youthfully closed today, but with excellent potential.” ST
Wine Advocate 94+ points “Even the 2013 Dhroner Hofberg Riesling Spätlese remains a mineral and flinty wine, but offers more fruit intensity and ripeness than the Kabinett. Very elegant and full of finesse this Riesling combines sweetness and intensity with salinity and piquancy and finishes as a lovely precise and persistent Spätlese with honey and grapefruit notes in the aftertaste. One of the stellar Spätlesen of the 2013 vintage in the Mosel valley!” RP
Importer notes: “SAAR, baby! Barely sweet, fervidly slatey, sleek and crisp but long and suavely mineral. Delicious, interesting, refreshing, blue slate and green apple, honest and perfect, modest and tactful, but not humble! Too vivid to be humble.”
Wine Advocate 94 points “Bright in color the two-starred 7.5% alcohol 2013 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese ** is an intensely (noble) sweet and creamy-textured selection, which was picked on November 1 and is made for future generations. Very sweet and dense on the palate it still has to become more wine-y but the wine has definitely talent.” WA
Wine Advocate 94 points “Sourced from a special parcel in the Oestrich Lenchen cru the 2013 Oestricher Rosengarten Riesling trocken GG is not just named after roses, it also smells like roses, along with perfectly ripened Riesling berries. Citrus colored with greenish hues, this wine shows a lovely purity, subtlety and elegance on the nose even though the grapes were highly ripe when picked. The precision and cool minerality on the palate is nevertheless fascinating, intense, sappy, salty and beautifully balanced. This is a luscious and frisky Riesling of great elegance and an alluring fruitiness. ”
Terry Theise notes:“Two bits of news: one, the Rosengarten is now officially a GG—up till now the designation was approved pending the final decision. And two, it’s now “GG” everywhere (instead of “Erstes Gewächs” in the Rheingau alone). It would be hard to imagine two more opposite wines. Rosengarten is all about fruit and yumminess. Even in ’13, though it’s angular out of the gate, the finish is suave and juicy, and the whole thing’s like a herb-and-fruit smoothie. ”
Wine Advocate 93 points “Juicy white peach and its kernel, crabapple and its pit, tartly and piquantly mark the Donnhoff 2011 Norheimer Dellchen Riesling Grosses Gewachs, which displays a shimmering sense of transparency to vibrant crystalline and stony (as well as the aforementioned piquant) nuances. Saliva-inducing saline savor and an invigorating sense of piquancy and tactile mineral impingement render the finish here profound and provocative (above all, of the next sip!). I would look for at least a decade of stimulation.”
Wine Advocate 92 points “The citrus/golden-colored 2015 Forster Riesling is dense, clear and aromatic on the nose and shows flinty aromas along with ripe Riesling flavors. Very vital and pure on the palate, the wine reveals a great grip and tension. Its power comes from the depth, not from the alcohol. The finish is long, complex and very salty, revealing a pure, concentrated and firmly-structured baby Riesling. This has great expression and talents. The finish and aftertaste reveal some refreshing white and lemony aromas; it does not have the rich and opulent stone fruit flavor you often find in Pfalz, as well as in Forst Rieslings. The finish is long, pure, salty and enormously vital.”
Wine Advocate 91 points “The golden/yellow-colored 2015 Deidesheimer Leinhöhle Riesling (AP 1416) has an intense nose with pretty ripe, but also refreshing and slightly greenish fruit aromas with sur-lie characteristics. Round and elegant on the palate, this is a balanced, fruit-intense and well-structured Riesling with nice concentration and a long, intense finish. Pretty accessible already, but also with tension. This is a very well-made Riesling from a warmer terroir in a warm vintage. The acidity is ripe and well integrated, and the creamy texture and long lees aging make this a pretty Burgundian Riesling, with 13.5% alcohol.”
Wine Advocate 93 points “The 2015 Deidesheimer Mäusehöhle Riesling (AP 2216) opens with a pure and refreshing, rather coolish aroma (compared to the Leinshöhle) of ripe yellow fruits intertwined with stony aromas. Round, fresh and elegant on the palate, this full-bodied and well-balanced Riesling is tightly woven, but fine and very mineral. It displays ripe yellow apple flavors in the finish, as well as nice and stimulating grip. The finish is pure and salty, really vitalizing in its freshness and clarity. According to the label, this is 12.5% alcohol.”
Wine Advocate 92 points “The intensely citrus-yellow 2015 Forster Musenhang Riesling (AP 2416) shows a clear, aromatic, and slightly flinty nose with ripe pip fruit and refreshing lemon; there are even green paprika and apple flavors on the intense and elegant nose. This Musenhang is medium-bodied, clear, fresh and racy on the palate. It is a straight and mineral, edgy and merciless Riesling with no ornaments, no meat and no charm. But it does have a lot of freshness, raciness and character. This is probably not a wine for the U.S. market, whereas Wikings would probably die for it. Great finesse and purity here, this is an old-school Riesling from the pre-global warming area. Some would say it is unripe, while other would say it’s just ripe. I’d say: the ripeness is at maximum, but I like it due to its refreshing and mineral expression. This Riesling is 12.5% alcohol.”
Wine Advocate 95 points “The tremendously deep bouquet of Pichler’s 2013 Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Kellerberg is precise, vegetal and flinty/cool. The wine is a noble, rich, highly elegant and terroir-driven Wachauer signature wine, which reveals its overwhelming power and great expression only in its finish and long, persistent aftertaste. This is, again, an icon wine of the Wachau and the 2013 vintage. A must buy, if you can afford it.”
David Schildknecht–Vinous 94 points “Smoky Szechuan and Madagascar peppers pungently announce site typicity in the nose, along with high-toned intimations of pit-inflected white peach and Mirabelle that subsequently flood the glycerol-rich, almost plush palate. The richness of fruit here, also incorporating very ripe muskmelon, is contrasted and cut with citrus rind piquancy allied to stony and peppery inflections that follow into a forcefully sustained but in no way rough or warm finish, the alcohol here having ended up at just under 14%”
Wine Advocate 94 points “Like the Liebenberg from weathered granite and gneiss soils, but in a higher and cooler spot, the 2015 Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Dürnsteiner Kellerberg opens with an intense and herbal-flavored, rather spicy and stony bouquet of ripe and concentrated bright fruits. Full-bodied, ripe and piquant on the palate, this is a rich and powerful, well-concentrated and elegant Kellerberg with a rich extract and a long and persistent finish. The 2015 should be cellared for at least another 3-5 years.”
Wine Advocate 94 points “Lucas Pichler’s monumental 2013 Grüner Veltliner Smaragd M opens with an ultra-ripe, concentrated and slightly speck-y yet still precise and even mineral-scented bouquet on the nose. Very rich and intense on the palate, this elegant, full-bodied, densely textured and powerful Veltliner from late-harvested grapes reveals an aromatic and juicy fruit core along with a stunningly vibrant acidity that gives structure, length and a lifting as well as lingering salinity and piquancy. Maracuya and other tropical fruit flavors dominate the aromatic aftertaste. Although I have no experience with matured samples of this Austrian icon Veltliner, I suspect it has an aging potential of 5-10 years and should be cellared at least for another 2 or 3 years.”
David Schildknecht–Vinous 93 points “Made with fruit from Loibenberg (a 50% share), Kellerberg, Liebenberg, with a small bit of Kollmütz, this installment of “M” enjoyed the longest pre-fermentation skin contact of any Pichler 2013, and was raised in a new large oval, then moved to tank shortly before bottling, which is when I last tasted it. Its impressive features include imposing richness of peach, melon and pineapple; an expansive and flatteringly creamy palate; high-toned inner-mouth allusions to almond extract; peach kernel piquancy; and pronounced smokiness and stoniness that suggest a mingling of Szechuan peppercorn, black tea and ash. The bright, Riesling-like juiciness characteristic of so many Grüner Veltliners from this vintage is absent here. But the finish of this static, statuesque wine (recall that “M,” after all, stands here for “monumental”) glows persistently in its evocation of peach kernel and pepper.”
Wine Advocate 94-95 points “The 2015 Grüner Veltliner Smaragd M is a selection of the ripest (overripe) grapes from the Loibenberg, Kellerberg and Liebenberg. Harvested in the last week of November and macerated for 20 to 24 hours, this is a rich and creamy textured yet elegant and vibrantly fresh Veltliner monument with finesse and purity and a long and tension-filled finish. Great salinity and concentration. An elegant and expressive wine for XXL drinkers.”
Falstaff 97 points “Bright green yellow. Fine exotic fruit bruet, delicate according to blood orange, dark mineral, facet rich. Very complex and concentrated, close-knit, finely underpinned acid structure, dark mineral, will remain for a long time, a long-distance runner and great promises of the future. [translated from German]”
David Schildknecht–Vinous 97 points “Succulent white peach and Persian melon are tinged more subtly than usual for this bottling with Madagascar and Szechuan peppercorns, black tea and crushed stone. There is hauntingly bittersweet floral perfume wafting through this entire performance, almost as though some Achleiten or Heiligenstein got loose in the fermenter. A high-toned suggestion of almond extract adds to the sweet impression of fruitiness (despite analytical dryness); and a mandarin orange note adds aromatic as well as brightly juicy allure in perfect harmony with a seductively creamy texture. Piquancy of peach kernel lends stimulating counterpoint and engenders a glowingly persistent finish. The combination of pit fruit, citrus and floral aromatics with complex peppery notes left in the empty glass is head-turning. This is as refined a Kellerberg Riesling as it has been my pleasure to experience. What’s more, it represents the first time I can recall using the word “buoyant” to describe one–and that for a wine picked in the last week of November!”
Wine Advocate 95 points “From the estate’s parade vineyard, the 2013 Riesling Smaragd Dürnsteiner Kellerberg displays a very rich and intense aroma of super-ripe and concentrated Riesling berries. Rich and powerful, but also precise, impressively concentrated and piquant on the palate, this well-balanced and highly elegant Riesling with its lemon and orange aftertaste is another signature wine of both the Wachau and the 2013 vintage. It’s aging potential should be terrific. A serious, tension-filled Riesling of great expression, which I highly recommend.”
John Gilman 91-92 points ‘The 2014 Ayler Kupp Kabinett from Florian Lauer is really a lovely and quite classic example of this Prädikat, with lovely acidity and minerality providing a fine filigree to the wine and a nice sense of reserve out of the blocks as well. The very classy nose wafts from the glass in a mix of green apple, tart orange, slate, lovely smokiness and a touch of dried flowers in the upper register. On the palate the wine is medium-bodied, pure and focused, with a good core, bright acids, a nice touch of sweetness on the attack and lovely length and grip on the elegant and nascently complex finish. This is quite approachable now, but still a touch primary, and I would be inclined to give it at least a few years in the cellar to develop its secondary layers of complexity. 2019-2035+.” JG
Wine Advocate 93 points “The 2015 Burg Layer Schlossberg Riesling Spätlese was auctioned in Bad Kreuznach in September 2016. Sourced from vines that are less than 30 years old, it opens with a very clear, ripe and almost tropical fruit aroma intertwined with delicate, flinty notes from the reddish/silvery slatey clay soils. This is another reductive styled, racy, piquant and finesse-full Riesling with tropical fruit aromas, some toasted speck and date flavors. Its combination of finesse and lush fruit texture reminds me of red slate Rieslings from the Mosel such as Ürziger Würzgarten or the red slate parts of the Pünderich Marienburg. The finish is full of tension and grip. A gorgeous Spätlese of which 400 liters have been produced.”
Mosel Fine Wines 92 points “Made from a 25-year-old parcel and harvested at 94° Oechsle, this delivers a nice set of fruity and juicy aromatics including yellow peach, quince star anise, rose water and grapefruit juice. The wine starts off on the light side on the palate but creamy fruits paired with rich Auslese GK styled sweetness quickly take over before some pear, pineapple and peach lead the way to a juicy and creamy long finish. This is a nicely creamy and clean Auslese GK styled Riesling. 2022-2035”
Wine Advocate 93 points “Bottled with 8% alcohol, the 2014 Zeltinger Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese Anrecht (erroneously designated as Spätlese instead of Auslese) opens with a super ripe and intense, stunningly bright and clear bouquet of very fine Riesling flavors; there are apple and pip aromas due to a higher proportion of golden and green grapes, and a lesser proportion of botrytis, due to the higher altitude of the Anrecht plot. There is so much finesse and piquancy in this juicy, elegant and well concentrated Riesling, which reveals a long and complex finish, as well as great finesse.”
David Schildknecht–Vinous 93 points “This product of block-picking (as opposed to selective picking) conveys a sense of ripeness and botrytization that could as easily have been captured in the word “Auslese.” Candied lemon, mint and anise mingle in the nose with suggestions of the quince, apple and Persian melon that come to dominate on a lush and expansive yet animatedly juicy palate. A hint of white raisin testifies delectably to the share of shriveled berries. Sweaty salinity lends mouthwatering intrigue while the fruit retains an invigoratingly tangy edge in a finish that readily stimulates the desire to take the next seductive, by no means overly sweet sip.”
The average price is $38
Wine Advocate 92 points “Warm and intense on the nose, ripe and concentrated white fruit aromas open the 2015 Riesling Smaragd Loibner Loibenberg, which is pure and citric on the nose and very inviting. Pure, fresh and piquant on the palate, this is rather coolish and stunningly lean and pure Loibenberg compared to the corresponding Grüner Veltliner. Lucas believes that Riesling has eventually stopped the ripening process during the vegetation period. This 2015 has grip and tension and a rather coolish character.”
Wine Spectator 92 points “A concentrated, peach-flavored white, with accents of honey, anise and apple exuding ripeness, while citrusy acidity reigns everything in. Stretches out lazily on the finish. Drink now through 2020.”
Now it’s even lower!
The next best price is $55
Terry Theise notes: “It means the virgin-vintage, the first crop from young vines. And it’s what the Germans would call Feinherb, and it’s what any sane person would call irresistible! A potion of iris and lavender, spicy and penetrating; very long, seductively earthy, like a really profound Nahe Spätlese, almost the 5-spice and wildflower of Dönnhoff’s Felsenberg.”
Now it’s even lower!
The next best price is $53.99
#1 in Our Hearts
“Readers will find much to admire in these new releases from Krug. Specifically, the Grande Cuvee 164eme Edition is off the charts. Chef de Caves Eric Lebel and his team deserve all the recognition they will surely receive for this superb Champagne. Krug’s decision to give consumers technical information on their wines, most notably the multi-vintage Grande Cuvee, is one of the very best decisions this historic house has ever made.” –Antonio Galloni
Krug Grande Cuvee 164eme Edition Brut, Champagne NV 750ML ($199.95) $169 special, 22 bottles in stock now
Antonio Galloni 97 points “Krug’s NV Grand Cuvée 164 Edition is a total knockout. Based on the 2008 vintage, the 164th Edition shows all the crystalline tension and energy that is such a signature of the year. At times, the 164 reminds me of the 2008 vins clairs I tasted after harvest. The flavors are brisk, delineated and pulsing with energy, while the more oxidative notes that are such a signature of Krug Champagnes are not especially evident. A wine of total pedigree and class, the 164 reminds me of some of the great Grand Cuvées of the 1960s and 1970s I have been lucky to taste over the years. No Champagne lover will want to be without this spectacular, captivating wine. All that said, readers should be patient, as the 164 is painfully young, austere and in need of serious cellaring.”
Mind for Mencia
Raul Perez has emerged as one of the most exciting Spanish winemakers of the last few years. He’s done it in an interesting way: not by making over-the-top big fruit and oak bombs, but rather by honing in on the terroirs in Galicia, a relatively unromantic vinicultural region. Until the late 1990’s, when his mentor Alvaro Palacios started the Petalos/Descendientes project, most of the wines in the region were sold locally, often to pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago.
Since then, a number of new wineries have popped up, but most of them are in the Palacios mold—made from around the warm, Mediterranean-climate village of Corullon. Perez, on the other hand, has walked a different path and focuses on wines made from Atlantic-influence climates in villages like Villadecanes or Cacabelos. As a result, the wines tend to be impressive, but in an introspective, earthy way.
Winemaking plays a part in that, as well. Perez prefers indigenous yeasts, neutral vessels and a lot of whole-cluster fermentation in his wine. Citing the (unlikely) influence of Bartolo Mascarello, he performs a long post-fermentation maceration on his wines as well, which give the wines powerful, yet elegant, structures that complement food exceptionally well. When you roll all of this together, you understand why Perez is making waves—these are unique and exceptional wines that show off terroirs previously unexplored by serious winemakers.
Raul Perez Prieto Picudo Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y Leon 2011 750ML ($59.95) $49 special, 32 bottles in stock now
Grapelive 96 points “The rare Prieto Picudo is an odd varietal with high acid, high tannin and slightly oval shaped with a pointy tip, it’s native and almost only found here in Tierra de Leon, the name means beaked, hence the name, Raul Perez’s is from a high elevation old vine site on sandy clay soils with river rocks, making for a unique wine that has an almost Nebbiolo or Ramisco like flavor profile. This extraordinary red, from vines planted in 1900 in the village of Pajares de los Oteros at about 900 feet above sea level, was fermented whole cluster in chestnut wood vats with a cool 60 day maceration and then raised for about 60 months in French barriques, this long elevage adding to the wine’s refinement and mature character. The 2011 Prieto Picudo, from 111 year old vines when harvested, is a brilliant ruby/dark red color with herb and floral notes on the nose with mineral tones as well as a slight earthy/spice and kirsch note before opening to a medium full palate of racy red fruits including brambly forest berry, cherry, plum and mulberry plus dried flowers, peppercorns, grilled fennel and light cedar. The texture is fantastic and mouth filling with satiny feel, this is mind-blowing stuff with great depth and layers of pleasure, but with firm tannins and glowing vibrancy making this wine really pop, lingering distilled strawberry, salty stones, sweet tobacco leaf and baking spice. This is one of the coolest wines I’ve tried this year, again it reminds me somewhat of Lessona DOC, Nebbiolo based reds that spend 4 to 5 years in cask, of the upper Piedmonte area. The fruit is ripe and polished, this is very much a classic Perez wine, it was great to taste it with the winemaker himself, you could see just how thrilled he was with this Prieto Picudo and his passion was thick in the air, and I think this wine has potential to age another decade, I hope to get a chance to see how it evolves. Wow.”
Wine Advocate 95+ points “There is a new Ultreia bottling, the 2014 Ultreia El Rapolao, from a vineyard that now sees five or six different bottlings, sourced from their old vineyards that used to go to the Vizcaína bottling. This is really pretty, with intense floral aromas, spices, a touch of earth and something herbal. The palate is medium-bodied with refined tannins, great balance and a tasty, long, sapid, almost salty finish. There were some 600 bottles produced. it was bottled in January 2017. Outstanding.”
Raul Perez Ultreia Saint Jacques, Bierzo 2015 750ML ($21.95) $17.80 special, 13 bottles in stock now
#51 Wine of the Year – Wine Spectator Top 100 2017
Wine Advocate 93 points “The 2015 Ultreia St Jacques is the entry-level red for the Ultreia range and is amazingly good for the price. Produced from old vines, this is a serious wine, with juicy fruit, a fine palate and good freshness for the conditions of the year. They have included new vineyards that they have been working for the last four or five years, so they are able to bottle a little bit more wine. This is a great value.”
Grapelive 93 points “It was a great honor to meet and taste with Raul Perez, one of Spain’s most heroic and influential winemakers (also known as the godfather of Mencia). Perez has mentored many rising stars, including Pedro Rodriguez and Veronica Ortega, whose wines I recently discovered and who is still working with him. Raul Perez’s lineup was mind-blowing and lived up to my huge expectations in every way. I was wildly thrilled with each and every one of these offerings, especially this new Ultra Saint Jacques Bierzo Tinto that delivers wonderful depth and complexity at a price that makes it a bargain by any standards. [It is] made from mainly from Mencia, but with some inter planted Bastardo (thought to be Trousseau) and Garnacha Tintorera (Alicante Bouschet) coming off vines that average about 75 years old. This dark and ripe vintage shows an almost Northern Rhone-like character and has an earthy/savory/spicy edge like a lighter Cornas. This was fermented with native yeasts, about 80% whole cluster in large oak cask with long macerations lasting between 2 and 5 months and then aged in mixed vessels including some cement, as well as 225L and 500L oak. [It was bottled] unfined and unfiltered. It’s pretty in detail with violet/floral tones, peppercorn and a medium body that flows with sweet tannins. It shows vibrant but smooth acidity, and flinty mineral elements as well as a core of loganberry, plum, candied cherry and tart currant fruits as well as salted black licorice, lavender, pipe tobacco, shale stones, earthy charms and a hint of cinnamon. This 2015 is lovely stuff that drinks very well right now and should prove pleasing for 3 to 5 years. For this price you’ll want a case!”
Wine Spectator 91 points “Smoke, forest floor and mineral notes mingle in this savory red. Lively acidity and light, firm tannins give grip to the polished texture. Cherry and floral accents sing through the finish. Energetic. Drink now through 2023. 1,200 cases imported.”
Wine Advocate 96 points “The 2014 Ultreia de Valtuille was very open and expressive, impressive too, with notes of freshness, blood orange, red cherries and also flowers (violets, lilies) and an earthy touch. It’s elegant and complex, with very fine tannins and a velvety sensation. As with all the reds, the oak is unnoticeable, perfectly integrated and folded into the wine.”
Raul Perez Ultreia de Paluezas, Bierzo 2014 750ML ($79.95) $66 special, 8 bottles in stock now
Wine Advocate 97 points “The 2014 Ultreia de Paluezas is a true rarity as the vines are planted on limestone soils, which are scarce in Bierzo, and the wine is really different, with a note of wet chalk that is not present in any other wine here. It has a very elegant palate, medium-bodied with very fine tannins and a velvety texture, with an earthy, limestone touch. It ends with a very tasty finish, and an almost salty sensation. There are only 300 bottles of this, as they could only produce one barrel of it. It was bottled in January 2017.”
At Great Prices
The line of great Brunello keeps growing longer—it seems as though prices for the best wines of Tuscan keep getting lower every day. We’ve got two incredible deals, on wines from excellent vintages, in the pipeline. These two, from great producers, seemed too good to pass up and they’ll be arriving over the next few months. Snag them while you can and drink them over the next decade.
Arriving ETA February 2nd:
Canalicchio Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Tuscany 2012 750ML ($59.95) $32.50 pre-arrival special
Canalicchio Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Tuscany 2012 375ML ($29.95) $18 pre-arrival special
Case-6 Canalicchio Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Tuscany 2012 750ML ($319.95) $179 pre-arrival special (that’s only $29.83/bottle!)
International Wine Report 93 points “The 2012 Canalicchio is a beautifully crafted, refined Brunello which spent more than 24 months in medium-large Slavonia oak casks. It slowly opens with aromas of dried cherries ans plums woven together with walnuts, tobacco, leather, dried spices and hints of balsamic. Medium-bodied and firm, with a fine grained tannins and lovely balance leading to the ultra-long, chewy finish. Today this is still a bit austere and will require a few years of additional bottle age before it becomes fully accessible. (Best 2020-2029) – February, 2017 (JD).”
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 92 points “The 2012 Brunello di Montalcino shows excellent continuity with past vintages and underlines a house style that is specific to this estate. This is a nuanced and delicate expression of Sangiovese that delivers grace and power. It walks a fine line between these two opposites. The bouquet is redolent of wild berry, red currant, grilled herb, wild mushroom and underbrush. I gave the 2011 vintage the same score, although the differences between the two wines are pronounced. The 2011 vintage shows the warm climate with more directness, whereas this edition offers more subtle depth and finesse. Both wines are most appropriate for near or medium-term drinking.”
Ian D’Agata-Vinous 92 points “Lively bright red. Primary aromas of raspberry, cherry cola and crushed rocks. At once sweet and austere, with juicy, very pure, red berry flavours, this is rather light in weight with a gentle texture in the typical Franco Pacenti style. Finishes minerally and long with vibrant violet nuances. This ought to blossom nicely given a few years in the cellar.”
The average price is $39
Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Tuscany 2010 750ML ($49.95) $39 pre-arrival special
Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Tuscany 2010 1.5L ($99.95) $79 pre-arrival special
James Suckling 95 points “So much dried-lemon and orange-peel character here. Wet leaf, wet earth, stone and lightly smoked meat. Full body, integrated tannins and a savory, tangy finish. Fleshy and yummy. Fabulous deal. Drink or hold on release.” JS
Antonio Galloni 93 points “Bright red cherries, plums, smoke, tobacco, flowers, cedar and spices are all beautifully delineated in the 2010 Brunello di Montalcino. Vibrant and lifted throughout, the 2010 captures the freshness of the vintage in spades. Already soft and accessible, the 2010 can be enjoyed now or cellared for a decade or so.” AG
Wine Advocate 92 points “Caparzo’s 2010 Brunello di Montalcino is a lush and voluptuous wine with soft cherry aromas at the front of spice, dark chocolate and toasted almond. The wine is more approachable in style with a drinking window that can offer pleasure to those too impatient to wait. The tannins are also more evolved and integrated for a more gentle approach. The finish is marked by an evident touch of vanilla from the oak.” WA
This is the lowest listed price for a magnum in the USA today!
Thanks for reading!