January 18, 2014
Heart of the Cote de Nuits
From Vosne-Romanee to Morey Saint Denis
Vosne Romanee
and Flagey- Echezeaux
Heading North from Nuits St Georges, Vosne-Romanee is a small commune in the Cote de Nuits district of Burgundy. Records suggest that Vosne certainly existed as a village in the sixth century though the spelling of ‘Vosne’ was often changed.The Abbey of Saint Vivant, which was founded in the 9th century, actually owned a large part of Vosne, including Flagey-Echezeaux which at that time had not yet been delineated.
The turmoil of the French Revolution would cause the demolition of the abbey, and a great amount of upheaval in the area. A wealthy family known as the Croonembourgs eventually came into possession of the vineyards that would eventually become Romanée-Conti. In this way the vineyards were preserved, and in 1866 La Romanée had become famous enough to be appended to the Vosne name. Since acquiring its AOC status in September of 1936 the village has been a known source of highest quality wines. Today, Vosne- Romanee has emerged as one of the best among all Pinot Noir wine villages in the Côte de Nuits.
While the villages of Vosne Romanee and Flagey -Echezeaux are entirely separate, the two sites are often grouped together due to proximity, with the commune-level and Premier Cru wines of Flagey- Echezeaux being sold under the appellation of its more-famous neighbor, Vosne-Romanee. Originally named Flagey, the village adopted the suffix Echezeaux in the late 19th century in honor of its prized vineyard. This name change was very much the fashion among Burgundy’s top wine villages at the time. Grands-Échezeaux and Échezeaux both date their Grands Crus AOC status from July 31, 1937. Like the Clos de Vougeot (from which they are separated only by a wall), they were founded by the famed monks of the abbey of Cîteaux, who spent most of the 12th century establishing many vineyards in Burgundy. Their name derives from chesaux, a word of Gallo-Roman origin meaning a group of dwellings. Similarly to Vougeot, Flagey-Echezeaux is unique for being almost entirely dominated by its two stellar Grand Crus, Echezeaux and Grands Echezeaux. There has never been a Flagey-Echezeaux appellation as such. Its non-Grand Cru wines are sold as Vosne-Romanee or under the generic regional appellation Bourgogne. Its famous Echezeaux and Grands Echezeaux Grand Cru sites are often mistakenly thought to be in Vosne-Romanee, adding to the already stellar reputation of this area.
The entire surface area of Vosne-Romanee’s Grand Cru vineyards is only 27 hectares, with the village of Flagey-Echezeaux in the plain between Vosne- Romanee and Vougeot. Often called the best winemaking village in the Côte de Nuits, the 6 Grands Crus of Vosne-Romanée (La Romanee, Romanee-Conti, La Grande Rue, La Tache, Richebourg, and Romanee-Saint-Vivant) and the 2 Grand Crus of Echezeaux and Grands Echezeaux are considered some of the best red wines, up there with the wines of first growth Bordeaux. Vosne-Romanee’s 14 Premier Crus are highly regarded as well, often said to be Grand Cru status worthy themselves, most noted of which are Aux Malconsorts, Les Suchots, and Beaux Monts.
The earth is characterized by exceptional purity, made up almost entirely of clay, interspersed occasionally with bits of limestone and pebbles. The gentle climate of the area produces wines that combine powerful flavor and silky elegance in a way that not many villages can rival.
The classic Vosne-Romanee wine has the perfect balance of weight, structure, elegance and longevity, Pinot Noir at the top of its form. Tasting notes often refer to a combination of tart red fruits and darker elements of undergrowth and smoke. These refined and well-blended aromas evolve beautifully with age. Often full bodied and voluptuous, the wine needs time in the bottle to develop structure and fleshy texture. Robust and powerful in their first years of life, after 25-35 years the Grands Crus showcase incredible purity and elegance of fruit that still has great concentration and flavor. The explosive perfume and extraordinary depth of flavor of these wines helps to make them some of the best in the world.
Stock List- All Here Now- Vosne Romanee
Chezeaux Vosne Romanee 2009 ($59.95) $49 special 10 bottles available
Jérôme Chezeaux’s approach is highly traditional, with gentle maceration to ease the colour and flavour from the grapes, then a long storage in oak barrels.
Dugat-Py Vosne-Romanee Vieilles Vignes 2009 ($249.95) $199 special 12 bottles available
Wine Advocate 90-93 points “… a sweet, sensual wine graced with exquisite depth in its spiced dark red fruit. Mineral notes add to a sense of thrust as the wine works its way through…”
Follin-Arbelet Romanee St Vivant 2009 ($499.95) $333 special 12 bottles available
Burghound 92-94 points “A ripe and exuberantly spicy nose also features an expansive range of fruit aromas that include red, blue and black berries plus plum nuances…”
Forey Vosne Romanee 2010 ($74.95) $59 special 4 bottles available
Burghound 88 points “There is lovely spice to the black pinot and red currant fruit nose that complements well the equally spicy, rich and solidly precise middle weight flavors…”
Jean Grivot Vosne Romanee 2009 ($69.95) $59 special 18 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 88-90 points “… Expressive aromas of raspberry, spices, flowers and minerals. Juicy and fruit-driven, with a suggestion of chocolatey ripeness lifted by flowers… ”
Jean Grivot Vosne Romanee Beaux Monts 2007 ($119.95) $99 special 3 bottles available
Wine Spectator 91 points “Offers a combination of sweet cherry, berry and mineral flavors, but this is also earthy in style….”
Jean Jacques Confuron Romanee St Vivant 2011 ($379.95) $299 special 6 bottles available
Burghound 91-94 points “A discreetly if broadly spicy nose of violets and black pinot fruit is quite cool and pure. There is a fine sense of focus to the silky-textured medium weight flavors…”
Jean Jacques Confuron Vosne Romanee Beaux-Monts 2010 ($149.95) $119 special 3 bottles available
Burghound 90-93 points “… velvety and highly seductive mouth feel before culminating in an extract-rich and impressively persistent finish. This too possesses excellent underlying material and should also age well but be approachable young.”
Leroy Vosne Romanee Les Beaux Monts 2009 ($999.95) $799 special 3 bottles available
Wine Advocate 96 points “… bursts from the glass with dazzling fruit that covers every inch of the palate. Sweet dark fruit, spices, tar and leather …”
Leroy Vosne Romanee Les Genaivrieres 2009 ($699.95) $599 special 2 bottles available
Wine Advocate 95+ points “.. Sweet crushed rose petal notes develop in the glass, weaving through the eternal finish. This is a gorgeous, fleshy wine graced with exquisite class… ”
Leroy Vosne Romanee Saint Vivant 2007 (1799.95) $1499 special 3 bottles available
Wine Advocate 95 points “Dark berries and dark, mossy, humus-rich forest floor; saline, crustacean-reduction, and oyster flesh mineral-animal savor; sweetly ripe raspberry..”
Louis Jadot Vosne-Romanee Beaux Monts 2009 ($129.95) $95 special 9 bottles available
Wine Advocate 91-93 points ” Sweet spices, licorice and goudron add complexity as this superb, explosive wine builds towards the finish. This is a fabulous effort from Jadot…”
Louis Jadot Vosne-Romanee Petit Monts 2011 ($129.95) $99 special 3 bottles available
Vosne-Romanée has 14 Premiers Crus and 7 Grands Crus, straddling between Vosne-Romanée and Flagey-Echézeaux. The grapes are fermented in vats for up to 4 weeks, and then the wine is matured for 15 months in oak barrels.
Louis Jadot Vosne-Romanee Suchots 2010 ($129.95) $99 special 4 bottles available
John Gilman 93+ points ” On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and very pure on the attack, with great complexity, a sappy core, a fine signature of soil, ripe tannins and exceptional length and grip on the laser-like finish…”
Louis Jadot Vosne-Romanee Suchots 2011 ($129.95) $99 special 12 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 91-94 points “(15% vendange entier): Good medium red. Soil-driven aromas of raspberry, minerals, mocha, pepper and chocolate. Very concentrated and complex …”
Louis Latour Romanee St Vivant Les Quatre Journaux 2001 ($229.95) $199 special 1 bottle available
“Les Quatre Journaux” is a magnificent plot of land situated at the South-West of Romanée Saint Vivant, a few meters from the Romanée-Conti vineyard. A “Journal” is an old Burgundian measurement corresponding to approximately 0.4 hectares (34,28 ares).
Noellat Romanee St Vivant 2007 1.5 Liter ($999.95) $799 special 6 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 93 points “Pungent, complex and weightless; a wonderfully lively, delicate wine with sneaky intensity and superb penetrating energy and lift. Finishes dry and understated. Suave rather than large…”
Roche de Bellene Vosne Romanee Malconsorts 2009 ($219.95) $189 special 2 cases available
Burghound 91-94 points “The earthy and relatively powerful big-bodied flavors possess excellent intensity and copious amounts of dry extract that coats the palate on the hugely long finish…”
Vincent Girardin Vosne Romanee Suchots 2009 ($119.95) $79 special 1 bottle available
Burghound 88-91 points “… excellent richness to the suave and velvety middle weight flavors that exude plenty of palate staining extract and an attractive mineral streak …”
Stock List- All Here Now- Flagey-Echezeaux
Domaine Dujac Echezeaux 2009 ($599.95) $319 special 3 bottles available
Wine Advocate 92-95 points “The 2009 Echezeaux (from one of the cooler sites in the vineyard) hovers on the palate in a weightless expression of grace and class. It is impeccably refined from start to finish…”
Faiveley Echezeaux 2006 ($149.95) $119 special 1 bottle available
Stephen Tanzer 91(+?) points “Medium bright red. Complex nose offers bitter cherry, redcurrant, licorice, spices, clove and flowers. Sweet but tight and serious, with lovely floral lift …”
Faiveley Echezeaux 2010 ($199.95) $133 special 3 cases available
Stephen Tanzer 92-95 points “Enters with intense raspberry and spices, then turns firm and floral in the middle, showing superb energy and sappiness to the primary red fruit and mineral flavors…”
Jean Grivot Echezeaux 2009 ($249.95) $219 special 8 bottles available
Burghound 95 points “An exuberantly spicy nose of wonderfully seductive black fruit liqueur aromas leads to rich, suave, pure and dense flavors that are a highly beguiling blend of finesse and power….”
Louis Jadot Echezeaux 2011 ($179.95) $139 special 6 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 90-92 points “Distinctly cool aromas of medicinal red fruits and peppery herbs. More saline than fruity on the palate, in a rather tightly wrapped style…”
Louis Jadot Grands Echezeaux 2009 ($319.95) $219 special 1 bottle available
Burghound 92-95 points “I quite like this as the linear finish displays excellent depth of material. For those who have the patience to wait, this should prove to be a superb effort in time.”
Louis Jadot Grands Echezeaux 2011 ($289.95) $239 special 3 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 92-95 points “Good bright medium red. Medicinal cherry liqueur, red licorice and spicy oak on the nose. Then penetrating and intense but suave, with lovely sappiness to the flavors of raspberry, cranberry and flowers…”
Jacques Prieur Echezeaux 2009 ($399.95) $289 special 6 bottles available
Burghound 92-94 points “… There is excellent volume to the rich, concentrated and velvet-textured big-bodied flavors that brim with dry extract on the balanced, deep and seriously persistent finish. This is an excellent Ech with plenty of aging potential.”
Vougeot
Clos de Vougeot vineyards with Chateau de Clos de Vougeot in the distance
The town of Vougeot is situated in the center of the Côte de Nuits directly north of Vosne-Romanée and southeast of Chambolle-Musigny. Vougeot only has one Grand Cru, but its fame more than makes up for the lack of diversity. Like Flagey-Echezeaux, Vougeot is almost entirely dominated by its Grand Cru, the Clos de Vougeot. Officially classified as a Grand Cru in 1937, this vineyard encompasses over 100 acres, and as such is the Côte de Nuits’ largest Grand Cru. The Vougeot village itself is only about a third of a square mile, so the majority of viable wine territory is within the walls of the Grand Cru.
The powerful abbey of Cîteaux established these vineyards in the 12th century, naming the land after the little river Vouge. There are about 18 sub-divided lieux-dits within the Clos de Vougeot, reflecting the fact that ownership of the land was historically divided between the Cistercian monks who planted the original vines, the Roman Catholic Church and the French crown. These divisions became less meaningful after, like many villages in this area, the appellation was torn apart by the French Revolution and subsequently sold off. Since Clos de Vougeot was established as an AOC in 1936, wines from this area have enjoyed a good reputation. The Clos is currently divided into over 100 plots, owned by more than 80 individuals from various families and domaines. For this reason, strict guidelines are instituted to maintain the quality of Clos de Vougeot wine; controlling such factors as vineyard management, maximum yield levels, and the natural sugar and alcohol content of the finished wine.
Clos de Vougeot vineyards on the upper slopes occupy shallow brown limestone soils, while the lower slopes are more dominated by clay and fine-textured marl. There are only four Premier Cru vineyards within Vougeot, located in a neat cluster to the west of Vougeot village, designated by the arrow-straight northern wall of the Clos. Much of their production is white; though wines labeled with the Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru are exclusively Pinot Noir. Masculine and powerful, the Pinot Noirs become rich and exotic after 5-10 years of bottle age. Today,Clos de Vougeot is most famous for the vast array of wines available from inside its historic walls and for being the current headquarters of the Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin, France’s most famous vinous brotherhood, an honor bestowed on Clos de Vougeot for its illustrious history and the magnificent wines produced there.
Stock list- All Here Now – Vougeot
Chateau de La Tour Vougeot Classique 2011 ($139.95) $109 special 6 bottles available
Burghound 91-94 points “Subtle wood influence sets off notably ripe and dense aromas of violets, plum, earth and various floral nuances. There is excellent richness and power to the big-bodied, intense and well-delineated …”
Chateau de La Tour Vougeot Vieilles Vignes 2011 ($219.95) $179 special 9 bottles available
Burghound 92-95 points “Deep ruby. There is more size, weight, power and concentration to the imposingly constructed flavors that are both supported and shaped by the tightly wound and extremely firm tannins, all wrapped in a mouth coating and hugely persistent finish…”
Chezeaux Clos de Vougeot 2009 ($149.95) $135 special 1 bottle available
Chezeaux Clos de Vougeot 2008 ($159.95) $135 special 6 bottles available
Wine Advocate 95 points “The 2008 Clos de Vougeot reveals notable intensity and power in its rich, textured fruit. There is plenty of structural heft as well, but the tannins are beautifully balanced by the fruit. This is a graceful, harmonious, totally satisfying wine. Anticipated maturity: 2024-2039.”
Anne Gros Clos de Vougeot Grand Maupertui 2010 ($269.95) $219 special 4 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 94(+?) points “Offers outstanding flavor intensity and verve, with strong acidity framing and energizing the cherry, floral and mineral flavors…”
D’Ardhuy Clos de Vougeot 2006 ($179.95) $149 special 2 bottles available
Burghound 91-94 points ‘DON’T MISS!’ “A floral and relatively expressive nose for a young Clos de Vougeot of earthy dark berry fruit aromas merges into powerful yet precise flavors that deliver a real sense of volume and drive on the long and superbly complex finish…”
D’Ardhuy Clos de Vougeot 2009 ($189.95) $149 special 2+ cases available
Burghound 94 points “… The rich, full-bodied and overtly muscular flavors possess outstanding size and weight before culminating in an extract-rich finish where the tannins are buried yet quite tactile. This offers simply knockout depth and despite the huge size, it is impeccably balanced…”
D’Ardhuy Clos de Vougeot 2010 ($149.95) $119 special 2 cases available
Burghound 92 points “… There is equally good intensity to the supple medium weight plus flavors that display good power and fine concentration on the balanced, long and moderately austere finish. This is very much a typical Clos de Vougeot that will need time to flesh out.”
Faiveley Clos de Vougeot 2006 1.5 Liter ($279.95) $219 special 1 bottle available
Burghound 92-95 points “Here the wood is decidedly more discreet with reserved and layered earthy and slightly animale red, blue and violet aromas that introduce delicious, intense and strikingly powerful flavors that are sleekly muscled and possess serious weight and length…”
Faiveley Clos de Vougeot 2010 ($179.95) $119 special 2 bottles available
Burghound 92-95 points “This is unusually elegant in 2010 with its refined nose of raspberry and earth though there are background notes of grilled meat and smoke. The supple, mouth coating and utterly delicious broad-shouldered flavors possess a silky texture…”
Faiveley Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru 2011 ($159.95) $136 special 12 bottles available
Burghound 92-94 points “An attractively complex and unusually refined nose speaks of red currant, kirsch, soft earth and a hint of wood spice. There is a refined mouth feel to the larger-scaled flavors thanks to the fine grain of the ripe and well-integrated tannins on the mildly austere and impressively long, indeed even explosive finish. This is terrific and the backend offers the same excellent depth the nose promises. Lovely stuff.”
Forey Clos de Vougeot 2006 ($199.95) $149 special 10 bottles available
Burghound 93 points “… elegant as the expressive nose features earthy dark berry fruit and floral aromas that are at present intensely animale in character that are in keeping with the robust, textured and impressively concentrated full-bodied flavors that also possess ample levels of dry extract.”
Forey Clos de Vougeot 2009 ($199.95) $149 special 1 bottle available
Burghound 91 points “This is very ripe with black cherry liqueur, plum, earth and violet aromas leading to opulent and impressively concentrated broad-shouldered flavors that culminate in a persistent finish…”
Jean Grivot Clos de Vougeot 2010 ($219.95) $179 special 2 bottles available
Wine Advocate 94-96 points “The 2010 Clos de Vougeot is another fabulous wine bursting with energy and a sense of urgency that is hard to capture with mere words. Freshly cut roses, crushed rocks and red berries come together beautifully in the glass…”
Jean Marc Millot Clos de Vougeot 2010 ($149.95) $133 special 1 bottle available
Burghoud 91-94 points “There is excellent intensity to the overtly muscular yet refined middle weight flavors that finish with plenty of the classic youthful Clos de Vougeot character…”
JJ Confuron Clos de Vougeot 2006 ($179.95) $119 special 1 bottle available
Burghound 92 points “… a complex mix of earthy dark berry fruit and game, mocha and chocolate hints that continue onto the strikingly rich and broad-shouldered flavors that are also suave yet powerful, all while retaining excellent focus and balance…”
JJ Confuron Clos de Vougeot 2008 ($179.95) $149 special 3 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 93 points “Good medium red with a hint of amber at the rim. Complex aromas of ripe cherry, menthol and wild herbs; very Clos de Vougeot. Silky-sweet, dense and energetic; sappy, fruit-driven wine with excellent stuffing…”
JJ Confuron Clos de Vougeot 2009 ($189.95) $149 special 2 bottles available
Burghound 91-94 points “A deft application of wood allows the pure and densely fruited nose of red pinot and violet aromas to shine through. The big-bodied and admirably concentrated flavors are underpinned by relatively fine tannins and notably less austerity than usual on the strikingly long finish…”
Le Moine Clos de Vougeot 2006 1.5 Liter ($449.95) $299 special 1 bottle available
Burghound 92 points “A relatively high-toned nose featuring notes of red berries, particularly currant and cranberry, is nuanced by spice, wood and earth undertones precedes round, rich and admirably full-bodied flavors that possess good depth and length on the lingering finish that combines both finesse and power.”
Louis Jadot Clos de Vougeot 2009 ($179.95) $119 special 6 bottles available
Wine Spectator 96 points “Displays enticing aromas of flowers, cherry, strawberry and spice, with a hint of leather and licorice in reserve and a long, long finish. A wall of tannins shuts this down-at least for now. The aromas are worth the price of admission. Best from 2016 through 2035. 300 cases imported.”
Louis Jadot Clos de Vougeot 2010 ($149.95) $119 special 7 bottles available
John Gilman 94+ points “…On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and very pure on the attack, with a rock solid core, ripe, fine-grained tannins, excellent focus and balance and stunning length and grip on the youthful and utterly complete finish.”
Louis Jadot Clos de Vougeot 2011 ($149.95) $119 special 12 bottles available
Burghound 89-92 points “A very toasty nose evidences a hint of tar on the mentholated nose both red and dark berry fruit and pungent earth aromas. There is good volume to the unusually supple, suave and smooth middle weight flavors …”
Prieur Clos de Vougeot 2009 ($299.95) $179 special 6 bottles available
Burghound 92-94 points “There is excellent density to the quite serious, brooding and concentrated medium weight plus flavors that exude plenty of dry extract that buffers the otherwise very firm yet fine tannins …”
T. Liger Belair Clos de Vougeot 2010 ($179.95) $149 special 11 bottles available
Burghound 94 points “… there is outstanding intensity to the energetic, pure and focused medium weight plus flavors that enjoy an abundance of tannin-buffering dry extract. The racy, linear and very firm finish is classically austere but seriously persistent. Impressive.”
Next up as we progress to the North in the Cote de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny is a tiny commune with a population of fewer than 400, but it enjoys a large, historic and widespread reputation for its high-quality wines. The village of Chambolle-Musigny has revolved around its wine business for centuries. The Musigny family, which gave its name to the appellation, is now extinct but held important posts at the court of the Dukes of Burgundy in the 14th century. The village was originally called simply Chambolle, a version of the word bouillant (bubbling), a reference to the torrents of water which flow down the local slopes after heavy rainfall. The appellation appropriated the name of its prized vineyard, Le Musigny, in 1882 – a custom of the time for many villages. The boundaries of the Musigny appellation were formally laid down on 16 April 1929, before the advent of the AOC system. Always held in Grand Cru status, the Chambolle-Musigny AOC was created in 1936, making it one of the oldest appellations of Burgundy. Since then, the village has enjoyed a solid history and a firm reputation for being always reliable and often outstanding.
Apart from its two Grand Crus (Le Musigny and the majority of Bonnes-Mares), the village has a respectable number of 24 Premier Cru vineyards, the most admired of which are Les Amoureuses, Les Fuees, and Les Baudes . The village of Chambolle-Musigny itself is located on the upper mid-slope of the Cote d’Or escarpment. Its vineyards lie to the east, on the mid-slopes below the village, stretching down towards the neighboring village of Vougeot. The climate in Chambolle-Musigny – as throughout the wider Cote d’Or department – is continental, with elevated seasonal temperature variation helping to establish balanced acids and sugars in the wines. The village produces almost exclusively red wines from Pinot Noir. A minute quantity of white wine is also made here, from Chardonnay grapes grown in the prestigious Le Musigny Grand Cru vineyard.
Two superb Grands Crus are grown here. Le Musigny ,which overlooks the Clos de Vougeot, has deep reds that evoke wild-rose and violet, as well as blackcurrant and raspberry. With age it develops further, producing a wonderfully balanced, tannic and complex wine. An unusual feature of the appellation is the .66 hectares of Chardonnay planted here. The only Grand Cru white produced in the Cote du Nuits, white Musigny is in a class of its own. Bonnes-Mares links its vineyards to those of Morey-Saint-Denis and produces exclusively red wines. Wines from Bonnes-Mares are heavier and more structured than their counterparts from the nearby Le Musigny climat, and are renowned for their cellaring potential rather than early consumption, though this may vary from producer to producer.
Quality is generally very high in Chambolle-Musigny. The classic Chambolle-Musigny wine is powerful, yet refined and perfumed, characterized by its balance of richness and elegance. Rich, fragrant and complex, it lines the palate with silk and lace. Its delicate but fleshy texture in no way detracts from its solid and durable structure. Often regarded as the most ‘feminine’ wine of the Côte de Nuits ; its intensity and delicacy express themselves with elegance and subtlety. These qualities make this very age-worthy wine also one of the most approachable of all the Cote du Nuits when consumed young.
Stock list- all here now- Chambolle Musigny
Digioia- Royer Chambolle Musigny 2010 ($69.95) $59 special 15 bottles available
Digioia- Royer Chambolle Musigny 2011 ($69.95) $59 special 2+ cases available
Denis Mortet Chambolle Musigny Beaux Bruns 2003 ($149.95) $119 special 1 bottle available
Burghound 89 points “A raspberry liqueur and spice nose leads to medium full flavors that are fresh, bright and snappy with plenty of sap and spice on the punchy, complex and wonderfully long if slightly warm finish…”
Denis Mortet Chambolle Musigny Beaux Bruns 2005 ($199.95) $149 special 1 bottle available
Burghound 89 points “Thick and concentrated earthy red pinot fruit aromas nuanced with leather, underbrush and even a touch of game lead to very rich, big-bodied flavors supported by firm and prominent yet very ripe tannins with excellent length. Classic Pommard in style.”
Faiveley Chambolle Musigny Les Fuees 2006 ($149.95) $119 special 2 bottles available
Burghound 91-94 points “An equally complex and refined nose that is stunning in its airy purity that the ethereal red, blue and rose petal aromas are lilting as they complement to perfection the superbly fresh and vibrant medium weight …”
Faiveley Chambolle Musigny Les Fuees 2009 ($199.95) $169 special 6 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 91-93 points “Bright red-ruby. Highly perfumed aromas of black raspberry, mocha and coffee. Very ripe on the palate but juicy, tight and gripping, with superb energy…”
Faiveley Chambolle Musigny Les Fuees 2010 ($179.95) $139 special 14 bottles available
Burghound 91-93 points “There is outstanding delineation to the more powerful, intense and mineral-inflected flavors where the firm but ripe tannins are almost completely buffered by the copious dry extract that really coats the palate on the balanced and strikingly persistent finish…”
Faiveley Chambolle-Musigny 2011 1er Cru Charmes 2011 ($99.95) $89 special 11 bottles available
Burghound 90 -92 points “This is notably more refined aromatically than the Beaux Bruns with a pure and relatively high-toned nose composed primarily of various red berries with hints of plum and violets. There is equally comparable refinement on the palate as the delicious and attractively precise flavors are supported by very fine grained tannins on the admirably persistent finish. Textbook.”
Faiveley Chambolle-Musigny 2011 1er Cru Combe d’Orveaux 2011 ($139.95) $119 special 11 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 91 -94 points “(25% vendange entier; the lieu-dit is Petit Musigny): Medium red. Raspberry, pungent smoky minerality and truffley underbrush on the perfumed nose. Juicy, tactile and saline, with musky red raspberry fruit complicated by crushed-stone minerality. Mounts impressively on the chewy aftertaste.”
Geantet-Pansiot Chambolle Musigny Les Baudes 2009 ($169.95) $139 special 17 bottles available
Burghound 93 points “… slightly riper if less floral nose merges into very rich and concentrated tautly muscular medium weight plus flavors that possess a textured mouth feel…”
Jacques Prieur Musigny 2008 ($479.95) $349 special 2 bottles available
Burghound 92-95 points “The spicy and densely fruited nose is stunningly elegant with breathtaking purity and is followed by rich, intense and powerful broad-scaled flavors that are naturally sweet and precise, all culminating in an explosive and highly persistent finish…”
Jacques Prieur Musigny 2009 ($499.95) $349 special 3 bottles available
Burghound 93-95 points “… easy to discern that the dark berry fruit is ripe and nuanced by plenty of spice notes that can also be found on the rich and palate staining velvety flavors that possess imposing size and …”
Jadot Chambolle Musigny 2010 ($59.95) $49 special 26 bottles available
Burghound 89-91 points “OUTSTANDING SELECTION” A very pure nose of wet stone, spice and an elegant mix of various wild red berries. There is good richness to the mouth coating flavors that possess excellent volume and surprisingly good power…”
Jadot Chambolle Musigny Les Baudes 2010 ($139.95) $69 special 12 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 91-94 points “Bright medium red. Captivating scents of red cherry, rose petal, coffee, menthol, crushed stone and wild herbs. Silky, suave and concentrated; like a red fruit cocktail in the mouth, complicated by minerals and wild herbs…”
Jadot Chambolle Musigny Les Fuees 2009 ($119.95) $84 special 4 bottles available
Wine Spectator 92 points “Supple and elegant, this raspberry- and currant-infused red has a vibrant structure lending support. Balanced and lithe, with a lingering aftertaste of fruit and mineral. Transmits its sense of place. Best from 2015 through 2028.”
Jadot Chambolle Musigny Les Fuees 2011 ($129.95) $99 special 6 bottles available
Burghound 90-92 points “Moderate wood frames a very pretty nose of high-toned raspberry, cherry and subtle menthol nuances. There is plenty of the characteristic minerality to the refined and attractively vibrant medium weight flavors…”
Jadot Le Musigny Grand Cru 2011 ($599.95) $479 special 3 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 94-97 points “Medium red. Reticent but pristine aromas of cranberry, raspberry and clove oil, plus an exhilarating suggestion of candied fruit. Superconcentrated, silky and utterly seamless; wonderfully spherical wine with great fruit intensity and …”
Jean Jacques Confuron Chambolle Musigny 2010 ($64.95) $55 special 9 bottles available
Burghound 87-90 points “A very pretty and perfumed nose features notes of raspberry, violets and cassis that are in keeping with the solidly ripe, rich and agreeably round flavors that possess good volume yet a delicate mouth feel, all wrapped in a broad and utterly delicious finish…”
Laurent Roumier Chambolle Musigny 2010 375ml ($39.95) $33 special 3 cases available
All of the wines in the Roumier repertoire are beautifully aromatic, with exceptional intensity and made in his quintessentially elegant style.
Pousse D’Or Chambolle Musigny Charmes 2009 ($149.95) $119 special 2 bottles available
Burghound 93 points ‘SWEET SPOT OUTSTANDING’ “… This is beautifully well-balanced and very Charmes as there is both a generosity and refinement to the seductive flavors and very firm finish.”
Pousse D’Or Chambolle Musigny Feusselotte 2009 ($179.95) $119 special 4 bottles available
Wine Advocate 94 points “… Here we find the femininity of Chambolle, but with an extra dimension of power and muscle to match. Crushed flowers and sweet spices add the final nuances on the subtle finish.”
Pousse D’Or Chambolle Musigny Groseilles 2009 ($119.95) $99 special 3 bottles available
Burghound 91 points ‘OUTSTANDING’ “… rich, round, fleshy and naturally sweet flavors that possess really lovely detail and fine overall balance and length. This is a classic Chambolle that is relatively forward in that it could be approached now if desired….”
T. Liger Belair Chambolle Musigny Les Gruenchers 2010 ($149.95) $99 special 3 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 90-92 points “Elegant, silky and sweet, offering lovely detail, excellent fruit intensity and a whiff of game. Finishes firm and floral. Liger-Belair told me he encourages some volatile acidity during elevage, working with very little sulfur dioxide but keeping a lot of CO2.”
Jadot Bonnes Mares 2010 ($339.95) $229 special 7 bottles available
Wine Advocate 94-96 points “The 2010 Bonnes- Mares bursts onto the palate with dark cherries, mint, flowers and graphite. This is another picture-perfect, representative wine that captures the essence of the white soils in this part of Bonnes Mares…”
Jadot Bonnes Mares 2011 ($279.95) $249 special 12 bottles available
Burghound 91-94 points “A moderately toasty nose fights somewhat with the spicy plum, cassis, warm earth and game suffused aromas. There is a plush mouth feel to the big-bodied and muscular flavors that display a discreet minerality…”
JF Mugnier Bonnes Mares 2010 ($799.95) $499 special 1 bottle available
Wine Advocate 91-94 points “The 2010 Bonnes-Mares comes across as a bit reticent. An expressive bouquet laced with dark berries, crushed rocks and graphite leads to a pretty core of dark red fruit. The generous, fleshy finish is the best thing about the Bonnes- Mares…”
Serafin Chambolle Musigny Les Baudes 2009 ($159.95) $109 special 23 bottles available
Wine Advocate 91-93 points “… one of the more open, radiant wines in this lineup. There is an unabashed sexiness to the fruit that is quite beautiful. This shows superb intensity and juiciness all the way through to the round, finish.”
Serafin Chambolle Musigny Les Baudes 2011 ($149.95) $119 special 6 bottles available
Burghound 92 points “A deft touch of wood adds nuance to the otherwise elegant and pure red and blue berry fruit aromas that display a lovely touch of violets that serve as a graceful introduction to the slightly earthy, rich and impressively full flavors…”
Vougeraie Bonnes Mares 2009 ($299.95) $249 special 12 bottles available
Burghound 92-95 points “50% whole clusters. An intensely floral and spicy nose that is wonderfully elegant and admirably pure speaks of wet stone, red currant plus warm earth and sauvage hints that transfer to the muscular but precise and mineral-inflected big-bodied flavors…”
Northernmost in the Central Nuits, the communal Morey-Saint-Denis appellation was created in December 1936 and covered the production of both red and white wines, made from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes respectively. Very little vineyard land remains planted to Chardonnay today. Prior to the introduction of the Morey-Saint-Denis appellation, wines from the village were often sold under the better-known names of Morey’s neighbors, Gevrey-Chambertin or Chambolle-Musigny. The history of Morey- St-Denis, like many of its neighbors, has in the past been heavily influenced by the powerful religious house of Vergy, the abbeys of Cîteaux, and by some of the great Burgundian families.
Of all the villages of the Côte de Nuits, Morey-Saint-Denis is one of the more fruitful in terms of the number of its Grands Crus, and it is these Grand Crus that have brought the appellation most of its fame and regard. The commune currently has about 345 acres (140ha) under vine, divided almost equally between the village, Premier Cru and Grand Cru classifications. The village is home to 20 Premier Crus, but is better known for its four Grand Cru climats – five if one includes the northern section of Bonnes-Mares, which crosses over from neighboring Chambolle-Musigny.
Facing east, these Climats are seen as southerly extension of the Grands Crus of Gevrey-Chambertin to the north. First comes the Clos de la Roche, then Clos Saint-Denis followed by Clos des Lambrays, and finally Clos de Tart leading to Bonnes-Mares.The vines are planted on thin, well-drained limestone on the higher slopes, and richer soils with a high marlstone component on the lower slopes. As is standard for a Cote d’Or commune, Morey’s vineyards range in altitude from 800 to 1200ft (245m–365m). The village-level vineyards are located on the lower and very highest slopes, while the Grand Crus and Premier Crus occupy the heart of the mid-slope, with their precise distribution depending on the soil make-up and aspect of the plots. Limestone dominates in the Clos de la Roche where the soil is barely 30 cm deep with few pebbles but with large boulders giving the climat its name. In the Clos de Tart, scree-derived soils 40-120 cm thick cover the underlying limestone. The Upper part of the Clos des Lambrays is marly with clay-limestone soil further down. The Clos Saint-Denis at the foot of the slope has pebble-free brown limestone soils which contain much phosphorus (like Chambertin) and clay (like Musigny).
The vast majority of the wines produced under the appellation are red, with only about 5% remaining devoted to whites. Diversity is to be expected as each Grand Cru has its own personality, and the variation of terroir within the commune is sufficient to create multiple, very different styles of wine. The style of an archetypal Morey-Saint-Denis wine is intense and full-bodied when fully mature, with a tannic texture and aromatic richness when young. A mid-point between the firm, substantial style of Gevrey-Chambertin and the perfumed style of Chambolle-Musigny, Morey St Denis wines, though far from being a household name likes its neighbors, are revered for their blend of powerful structure and approachability even in their youth.
Stock list – All Here Now -Morey St Denis
Domaine Dujac Morey St Denis 2009 ($119.95) $89 special 1 bottle available
Burghound 88-91 points “A deft touch of wood sets off very fresh red berry fruit aromas laced with earth notes and a hint of spice that introduce rich, generous and quite supple middle weight flavors that retained good detail and focus on the dusty, mouth coating and firm finish.”
Domaine Dujac Morey St Denis 2009 Premier Cru ($249.95) $169 special 6 bottles available
Wine Advocate 91 points “The 2009 Morey St. Denis 1er Cru is a blend of three vineyards; mostly Ruchots with some Clos Sorbe and Charrieres. This is an impressive wine graced with layers of dark red fruit. Mint and minerals add complexity on the focused, textured finish…”
Dujac Fils & Pere Morey St Denis 2010 ($109.95) $79 special 3 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer “Good deep red. Pure, complex nose offers black raspberry, mocha, brown spices, mint and game. Dense, spicy and fine-grained; creamy-sweet but given shape by harmonious ripe acidity. This attractive midweight is more generous today than the Gevrey.”
Forey Morey St Denis 2010 ($59.95) $49 special 11 bottles available
Wine Advocate 88 points “The 2010 Morey St. Denis has plenty of energy and vibrancy. Brilliant, nicely delineated tannins frame dark fruit, freshly cut flowers and subtle hints of spices. This is a very pretty villages. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016.”
Perrot Minot Morey St Denis La Riotte 2008 ($159.95) $109 special 4 bottles available
Burghound 88-91 points “… classic Morey but elegant and quite pure with moderately earthy wild red berry fruit aromas that convey a subtle sense of the sauvage that is also reflected by the relatively supple and forward middle weight flavors that evidence a discreet …”
Ponsot Morey St Denis Cuvee Alouettes 2009 ($179.95) $139 special 4 bottles available
Burghound 91-94 points “A very pretty nose of discreet spice notes, red currants and damp earth nuances that continue onto the rich, powerful and impressively concentrated medium-bodied flavors blessed with an abundance of dry extract that buffers the notably firm, mineral-driven and wonderfully complex finish…”
Roumier Morey St Denis Boussiere 2008 ($229.95) $189 special 2 bottles available
Wine Advocate 93 points “… sweet, sensual and totally beguiling, Dark cherries, herbs, violets and white flowers are some of the nuances that emerge from this precise, striking wine. An underpinning of minerality accentuates the energy of the fruit and the wine’s overall persistence.”
Serafin Morey St Denis Millandes 2009 ($159.95) $109 special 21 bottles available
Wine Advocate 93 points “… a great combination of rich, dark fruit and powerful structure. Today the wine is already starting to shut down, something that bodes quite well for the future. Mint, flowers, spices and licorice stain the palate on the deep, resonant finish….”
Serafin Morey St Denis Millandes 2011 ($159.95) $119 special 12 bottles available
Burghound 90-93 points “There is excellent volume, power and a taut muscularity to the concentrated and mineral-tinged medium weight flavors that culminate in an austere, backward and highly persistent finish. This is very old school in style and will require ample patience…”
Leroy Clos de la Roche 2007 ($1799.95) $1399 special 3 bottles available
Wine Advocate 96 points “Kirsch, rose hip, and soy intensely scent the Leroy 2007 Clos De La Roche, which reveals brightness and finesse as well as a saline savor unusual for its appellation. But it’s the sheer finesse, buoyancy, and vibratory energy on display that most amaze…”
Louis Jadot Clos de la Roche 2009 ($249.95) $169 special 11 bottles available
Wine Advocate 92-95 points “The 2009 Clos de la Roche comes across as big, powerful and a touch heavy-handed. This shows tons of richness and depth but lacks the sheer excitement of the estate’s finest wines. The Clos de la Roche is made from purchased wine.”
Ponsot Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes 2009 ($799.95) $619 special 2 bottles available
Burghound 96-98 points “This is a classy wine with absolutely superb complexity, impeccable balance and almost uncanny presence, all delivered with grace and power. Be prepared to be patient however as this will need plenty of time. A ‘wow’ wine.”
Ponsot Clos de la Roche Vielles Vignes 2010 ($699.95) $499 special 3 bottles available
Burghound 95-97 points “…There is superb size and weight to the imposing and overtly muscular flavors that also enjoy an incredible amount of dry extract that confers a supple and seductively textured mouth feel to the highly concentrated mid-palate…”
Pousse D’Or Clos de la Roche 2009 ($319.95) $249 special 4 bottles available
95 points Wine Advocate “The 2009 Clos de la Roche saturates the palate with tons of fruit. Despite its richness, the Clos de la Roche remains brilliant through and through, with dazzling elegance and an intense, powerful finish. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2044. “
Jadot Clos St Denis Domaine Gagey 2009 ($319.95) $219 special 3 bottles available
Burghound 91-94 points “(from 90+ year old vines that are worked by horse). A ripe and notably somber but attractively spicy nose blends both red and blue berry fruit with earth nuances …”
Clos de Tart Grand Cru 2007 750ml ($499.95) $249 special 18 bottles available
Clos de Tart Grand Cru 2007 1.5 Liter ($899.95) $749 special 1 bottle available
Wine Spectator 94 points “Intense aromas of graphite and mineral make an immediate impact, with black cherry, black currant and spice flavors adding depth and dimension. This has concentration and a juicy texture, pushing the long, peppery aftertaste. Shows fine harmony and expression overall. Best from 2012 through 2024.”