October 19, 2013
Chateauneuf-du-Pape
Chateauneuf-du-Pape is the name for a village in the Southern Rhone and is one of France’s oldest declared wine appellations, established in 1929. The area once was named Chateauneuf-Calcernier after its many limestone kilns. During the 14th century, the nearby village of Avignon housed seven French Popes. A summer chateau was built in what is now Chateauneuf-du-Pape in 1320 as a retreat from Avignon. This building gave the village its new name, which translates to “New House of the Pope.” Today, little remains of the papal chateau after several battles, but many other historic buildings are well-maintained.
The town is full of winding narrow streets and is surrounded by vineyards speckled with white pebbles. The soil in the region is made up of quartz stones and sandy red clay from ancient riverbeds. Its Mediterranean climate is hot and dry. The mistral wind that blows down through Rhone keeps the region dry and can threaten ripening grapes when it reaches its maximum speeds of over 55 miles per hour.
The style of red wines produce is full-bodied, spicy and typically made with a large proportion of Grenache and often with Syrah or Mourvedre. The other red varieties allowed under the AOC are: Cinsault, Muscardin, Cournoise, Picpoul Noir, Terret Noir, and Vaccarese. Usually these wines are not aged in new wood, leading to a more pure expression of the fruit. Expect to detect notes of herbs, red and black berries and even notes of roasted meat. The white wines are also full-bodied with a heady floral perfume, most often meant to be drunk young. Clairette, Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Bourboulenc, Picpoul (Piquepoul), and Picardan (Araignan) make up the white grapes, though only the first four are commonly used.
Pair these red beauties with a hearty meal such as a rich game stew or beef roasted with fresh herbs. Looking for the perfect cheese pairing? The French recommend Roquefort bleu or fairly pungent, soft-ripened cheeses such as St Marcellin, Langres or Maroilles.
Below, we have organized a list of Chateauneuf-du-Pape wines, all here now, by vintage and color. The Southern Rhone has been enjoying over a decade of excellent vintages with only a couple difficult years.
2006
2006 was not a hot as the following vintage and had lower than average rainfall. Cool nights and warm, dry days aided steady phenolic ripening. Harvest extended into October for Grenache and Mourvedre.
Fortia Chateauneuf du Pape Tradition 2006 ($39.95) $21.90 special, 25 bottles available
Wine Spectator 89 points: “This offers a beam of plum, red currant, licorice and sweet spice flavors, with slightly firm but rounded tannins. Drink now through 2018.” WS
Henri Bonneau CDP Reserve Des Celestins 2006 ($299.95) $219.00 special, 7 bottles available
Robert Parker 94-96 points: “The 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve des Celestins, which should be bottled in 2012, had its best showing yet. Notes of soy, beef blood, kirsch, garrigue, licorice and tapenade make this a classic, expansive, full-bodied Chateauneuf du Pape that should turn out to be a great sleeper from this cellar. It could be similar to Bonneau’s 1986, which was probably the wine of the vintage in Chateauneuf du Pape. It should drink well for 25-30+ years.” RP
Henri Bonneau Chateauneuf du Pape 2006 ($99.95) $79.00 special, 8 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 92-94 points: “Zesty red berry and mineral aromas, with a suave undercurrent of flowers. Tangy and focused, offering strawberry and raspberry flavors, silky texture and dusty tannins. With its impressive elegance and cut, this looks impressive.” ST
Vatican Chateauneuf Sixtine Reserve 2006 ($59.95) $29.00 special, 29 bottles available
Wine Spectator 93 points: “This is dark and reticent for now, but also pure and loaded with a big core of plum and blackberry fruit, mocha, graphite, licorice and fig cake notes. The long, velvety finish just sails along, with latent grip in reserve. Best from 2009 through 2028.” WS
2007
Southern Rhone was lucky to avoid the poor growing weather experienced by other French regions in 2007. Dry, warm growing conditions led to ripe tannins. It was a great year for the more modern ripe and rich style, with high alcohol levels and fairly low acidity.
Domaine Cristia Chateauneuf Renaissance 2007 ($79.95) $59.00 special, 3+ cases available
Wine Spectator 95 points & Robert Parker 94+ points: “Very plump and ripe, with black cherry, plum and blackberry fruit flavors that verge on jammy, before fresh spice, star anise and floral notes chime in to give added definition and length. Flaunts the showy side of the vintage. Grenache and Mourvèdre. Drink now through 2025.”WS
Domaine Roquete Chateauneuf du Pape 2007 ($44.95) $37.00 special, 27 bottles available
Robert Parker 93 points: “The finest traditional cuvée yet made, the 2007 Châteauneuf du Pape (70% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre aged in foudré and concrete tanks) possesses a deep ruby/purple-tinged color as well as bouquet of black currants, black cherries, garrigue, pepper and lavender. It is a full-bodied, ripe, exceptionally elegant, pure wine to drink now or cellar for 12-15 years.” RP
Janasse Chateauneuf du Pape Vielles Vignes 2007 ($399.95) $319.00 special, 12 bottles available
Robert Parker 100 points: “The perfect 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes (tasted on four separate occasions) is composed of 85% Grenache, 10% Syrah, and the rest Mourvedre and other authorized varietals from 60- to 100+-year-old vines. The wine is aged in both tank (75%) and small oak barrels (25%). Its inky/purple color is followed by a phenomenal nose of spring flowers, creme de cassis, blackberries, boysenberries, licorice, truffles, and spice. Displaying massive body, incredible freshness, laser-like focus from the excellent acids, and a finish that goes on well past a minute, this prodigious Chateauneuf du Pape is the most extraordinary wine yet made at this estate. While accessible (as most 2007s are), ideally it needs 4-5 years of cellaring, and should keep for three decades.” RP
Mas De Boislauzon Chateauneuf Cuvee Quet 2007 ($299.95) $249.00 special, 21 bottles available
Robert Parker 100 points: “The biggest surprise in these tastings was the phenomenal performance of the 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee du Quet. Normally a blend of 65% Grenache and 35% Mourvedre, the 2007’s composition changed to 80% Grenache (all aged in tank) and 20% Mourvedre (aged in small oak barrels.) This wine literally blew me away. Since this is a PG-rated publication, I can not print my original comments upon tasting this wine. Let’s just say the exquisite aromatics were astounding. They include creme de cassis, lavender, roasted meats, new saddle leather, and spice box. The phenomenal aromatics were matched by equally compelling flavors, texture, and purity. Offering a thrill a second, this full-bodied wine exhibits awesome concentration, impeccable balance, and a finish that lasts nearly 60 seconds. I had a difficult time spitting out this amazing elixir, and I kept returning to it during the course of the morning tasting just to confirm my initial impression. The good news is about 500 cases were produced. It should drink well for two decades or more.” RP
Monpertuis Chateauneuf Classique 2007 ($49.95) $39.00 special, 3 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 93 points: “Vivid ruby. Fresh red and black fruits, blood orange, minerals, rose and smoky garrigue on the nose. Juicy, spicy and expansive, with explosive inner-mouth perfume and superb intensity to the sweet raspberry and cherry flavors. Really classic Chateauneuf, with strong lingering sweetness and spiciness and zero rough edges. But there’s also a weightless quality here that belies the long, warm growing season. This has the freshness and balance to age for a long time.” ST
Monpertuis Chateauneuf Secret De Gabriel 2007 ($69.95) $59.00 special, 5 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 95 points: “Saturated red. Expansive, hugely aromatic bouquet of raspberry, mulberry, allspice, smoked meat and minerals, with a strong floral quality that gains strength with air. Deeply concentrated but surprisingly lithe and precise, offering sweet red berry and cherry preserve flavors and notes of licorice and rose pastilles. The finish is spicy, focused and extremely persistent, with a zesty mineral element adding lift and cut. This is the wine formerly known as Tradition, and is based on grenache vines planted in the late 19th century.” ST
2008
2008 was a challenging year for wine-growers throughout Southern Rhone. Rains in August delayed ripening, and vintners were forced to delay harvest into late October to achieve good ripeness. Strict green harvesting and selection made for limited yields that maintained quality.
Clos Des Papes Chateauneuf du Pape 2008 ($99.95) $79.00 special, 33 bottles available
Wine Spectator 95 points: “Dark, inviting and very alluring, with captivating black tea, charred mesquite and kirsch aromas and flavors allied to a remarkably silky mouthfeel. Superlong, with mineral, violet, pepper and additional crushed cherry and plum notes all gliding through the finish. Shows none of the difficulties of the vintage-arguably the best property in the appelation right now. Best from 2011 through 2027.” WS
Olivier Hillaire Chateauneuf du Pape 2008 ($49.95) $39.00 special, 27 bottles available
Rhone Report 90 points: “Smooth and supple but with a traditional, classic feel, the 2008 Domaine Olivier Hillaire Chateauneuf-du-Pape, a bland of 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 5% Mourvedre, and 5% Cinsault, sports a semi-transparent, ruby red color as well as garrigue and spice dominated aromatics. Sweet cherry, touches of licorice, saddle leather, white pepper, and earth come through with air and while not terribly intense at the moment, I like the complexity and it keeps me coming back for another sniff. The palate is medium bodied with sweet fruit, a light, deft texture, good acidit, and a chewy, savory finish. Drink this excellent, very drinkable wine, over the next 10 to 12 years.” RR
Vaudieu Chateauneuf du Pape 2008 $33.00 special, 3+ cases available
Wine Spectator 93 points: “Very fresh and racy, especially for the vintage, with mouthwatering mineral and shiso leaf notes pushed by bright minerality, all of which is then backed by a ripe core of crushed red and black cherry and currant fruit. The finish is long and silky. A very impressive turnaround has been made at this estate. Drink now through 2022”
2009
Ripening quickened its pace during August 2009 with a short heat wave after veraison leading to richly concentrated berries. Later, cooling rains gave wine-makers an easy harvest to choose the level of acidity and concentration for their style of CNP.
Bois De Boursan Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc 2009 ($39.95) $33.00 special, 11 bottles available
35% Clairette, 35% Grenache Blanc, 15% Roussane, And 15% Bourboulenc
Roquete Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc 2009 ($44.95) $34.50 special, 4 bottles available
Josh Raynolds 90 points: “One-quarter each Roussanne, Clairette, Grenache Blanc and Bourboulenc) Greenish gold. Pure, expressive aromas of pear, orange, honey, smoke and chamomile; reminds me of Burgundy. Fleshy orchard fruit flavors are brightened by gentle citrus and mineral qualities, picking up nutmeg and allspice with air. Quite suave, with excellent finishing clarity and smoky persistence” IWC
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Beaucastel Chateauneuf Hommage J Perrin 2009 ($599.95) $499.00 special, 3 bottles available
Robert Parker 99 points: “Potentially the wine of the vintage, the 2009 Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape Hommage a Jacques Perrin had just been bottled two weeks before my visit. A wine of extraordinary density, richness, precision and unreal flavor intensity, it reveals abundant gamey, meaty notes intermixed with smoked duck, Provencal herbs, blueberries, blackberries, kirsch and licorice. This loaded, multidimensional, massively concentrated 2009 is much softer than most Hommages. It should be drinkable in 3-4 years and keep for 30-40 years thereafter. Kudos to one of the world’s great winemaking families!”
Beaurenard Chateauneuf Boisrenard 2009 ($79.95) $69.00 special, 3+ cases available
Wine Spectator 96 points: “This powerful red offers a muscular core of roasted fig, blackberry and cassis fruit framed by thick, mesquite-tinged tannins, with loads of tobacco, pepper and tar coating the mouthwatering finish. Yet despite its power, this is racy and defined. Best from 2014 through 2024.” WS
Brunier Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf 2009 1.5L ($149.95) $119.00 special, 3 bottles available
Wine Spectator 94 points: “This is crammed with fruit, spice and structure, as braised fig, plum skin, cassis and anise notes wrestle with roasted apple wood, melted red licorice and tar for now. The embedded grip should carry the finish until this assimilates fully. Best from 2014 through 2024.” WS
Clos Des Papes Chateauneuf du Pape 2009 ($149.95) $119.00 special, 3+ cases available
Wine Spectator 96 points: “Sinewy and reserved, with a light dusting of cocoa over the tangy damson plum, red licorice and cassis notes. The long, supple finish, with a lovely wafting note of Lapsang souchong tea, is packed with minerality and tight-grained tannins that will need time to fully evolve. One of the more backward 2009s, though this should pick up steam in the cellar. Best from 2013 through 2025.” WS
Clos du Caillou Chateauneuf Les Quartz 2009 ($109.95) $66.00 special, 3+ cases available
Case-12: Clos du Caillou Chateauneuf Quartz 2009 ($899.95) $744.00 special, 1 case available at special price
Robert Parker 94 points: “The opaque ruby/purple-colored 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Les Quartz is a blend of 85% Grenache and 15% Syrah from one of the appellation’s more obscure lieu-dits. This stunning 2009 offers copious floral notes intermixed with crushed rock, wet stone, kirsch and black currant characteristics.” RP
Clos du Caillou Chateauneuf Les Safres 2009 ($79.95) $44.00 special, 3+ cases available
Robert Parker 91 points: “The dark plum/ruby/purple-tinged 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Les Safres is showing better from bottle than it did last year from barrel. A blend of 95% Grenache and the rest Syrah, Mourvedre and Cinsault aged in old foudres, reveals classic notes of herbes de Provence, cherry jam and lavender in a full-bodied, opulent, sexy, open-knit style typical of many 2009s. This broad, rich Chateauneuf is ideal for drinking over the next 10-12 years.” RP
Clos du Caillou Chateauneuf Reserve 2009 ($179.95) $109.00 special, 12 bottles available
Robert Parker 94+ points: “Intense, full-bodied and opulent, it is presently as rich, powerful and promising as their top luxury cuvee, the dense purple-colored 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve. The latter wine normally towers above the other two cuvees, but it is also more backward because 40% of the blend is split between Mourvedre and Syrah aged in new oak casks and the balance of 60% Grenache is aged in 600-liter demi-muids. Its deep purple color is followed by expansive, broad, sweet kirsch and black raspberry fruit notes intermixed with hints of licorice, graphite and spice box. Full-bodied with terrific purity as well as an attractive earthy, truffle, meaty character, it is much more evolved and forward than most vintages tend to be as this cuvee often needs 8-10 years of bottle age in the more tannic, backward years. However, that is not the case with this 2009 Reserve. It should drink well for 15+ years.” RP
Pierre Usseglio Chateauneuf Tradition 2009 ($54.95) $44.00 special, 15 bottles available
Robert Parker 90-92 points: “The 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape (80% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 5% Mourvedre and 5% Cinsault) is another top-notch effort. The wine is aged in tank (60%), foudre (30%) and 1- to 4-year-old small barrels (10%). Sweet raspberry, black currant, and cherry fruit intermixed with licorice, lavender and tobacco leaf jump from the glass of this perfumed 2009. With outstanding ripeness, a plush, evolved mouthfeel and sweet tannins, this beauty is already complex and delicious. It should age well for 7-8 years.” RP
2010
2010 vintage was characterized by low yields of very high quality. Rainfall was very low and Grenache experienced shatter. Malolactic fermentation was somewhat slowed by the cooler than usual weather in November.
Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc 2010 ($99.95) $79.00 special, 3 bottles available
Wine Spectator 93 points: “Juicy up front, with lively star fruit, peach and yellow apple fruit, this turns plush and languid, with alluring grilled hazelnut, sweetened butter and warm piecrust notes filling in on the finish. Sneakily long, thanks to the nicely integrated acidity. Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, Picardan, Clairette and Bourboulenc. Drink now through 2015.” WS
Chapoutier Chateauneuf Bernardine Blanc 2010 (69.95) $49.00 special, 3+ cases available
Wine Spectator 92 points: “This ripe style displays a brioche frame to the Cavaillon melon, heather, peach and papaya notes, which all glide seamlessly through the full-bodied finish, where a stony hint keeps this honest. 56 cases imported.” WS
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Bosquet Des Papes CDP Chante Le Merle 2010 ($149.95) $119.00 special, 35 bottles available
Robert Parker 99 points: “The 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Chante Le Merle Vieilles Vignes is a blend of 85% Grenache and the rest equal parts Syrah and Mourvedre from the same parcels as the 2011. The wine is aged primarily in foudres with small percentages of the Syrah and Mourvedre kept in new 600-liter demi-muids. A spectacular effort, it displays a confit of camphor, blueberries, blackberries, black raspberries, lavender and other floral notes. This full-bodied, massive Chateauneuf du Pape is remarkably light on its feet despite what must be 15+% alcohol. Incredibly pure and remarkably intense, this is a tour de force from Nicolas Boiron. It should drink well for two decades.” RP
Bosquet Des Papes Chateauneuf du Pape 2010 ($59.95) $47.00 special, 3+ cases available
Robert Parker 94 points: “The 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Tradition was even better than when I tasted it last year prior to bottling. A wine of great intensity, it may be the finest Tradition cuvee yet made at Bosquet des Papes. Its opaque purple color is accompanied by sumptuous notes of balsam wood, roasted Provencal herbs/garrigue, sweet black raspberry and blackberry fruit and hints of truffles and lavender. This dense, full-bodied, amazing Chateauneuf is one of the top values of the vintage. Enjoy it over the next 15-20 years.” RP
Brunier Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf Red 2010 ($99.95) $79.00 special, 15 bottles available
Brunier Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf 2010 375ML ($59.95) $44.00 special, 24 bottles available
Brunier Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf 2010 1.5L ($219.95) $179.00 special, 5 bottles available
Robert Parker 97 points: “Performing considerably better than it did prior to bottling, the 2010 Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf du Pape is one of the all-time great Vieux Telegraphes I have tasted in the last 3+ decades. I believe it is even superior to the 2007, which I had several weeks ago. The 2010 boasts a dense purple color along with a sumptuous bouquet of spring flowers, boysenberries, black cherries, black currants, nori (the sushi seaweed wrapper), black olives, licorice and pepper. This full-bodied, meaty, thick, juicy effort possesses a boatload of tannin, but it also has incredible concentration. More massive than I remember from last year, it has put on considerable weight and intensity. Forget it for 3-4 years, and drink it over the following 25-30 years. Kudos to Daniel and Frederic Brunier! ” RP
Charbonniere Chateauneuf Brusquieres 2010 ($74.95) $59.00 special, 13 bottles available
Robert Parker 92-95 points: “The deep, rich, opaque ruby/purple 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Les Hautes Brusquieres Cuvee Speciale displays loads of framboise, black raspberries, black cherries, licorice and garrigue. It has layers and layers of fruit, a full-bodied mouthfeel, a denser core and slightly more acidity and structure than the 2009. This will probably require a few years of cellaring then drink beautifully for 15 more years. (I am just consuming my last bottles of 1998, which is still a beautiful wine at age 14.).” RP
Charbonniere Chateauneuf Vieilles Vignes 2010 ($74.95) $59.00 special, 14 bottles available
Charbonniere Chateauneuf Vieilles Vignes 2010 1.5L ($149.95) $119.00 special, 1 bottle available
Robert Parker 93-95 points: “The 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes is superb, with layers and layers of fruit, oodles of glycerin and a full-bodied mouthfeel. The tell-tale licorice, balsam wood, and intense cherry liqueur, roasted herbs and a crushed rock sort of minerality are present in the spectrum of flavors and aromas that this wine presents. Full-bodied and deep, this is a stunner that should drink well for 15 or more years.” RP
Clos St Jean Chateauneuf Combe Des Fous 2010 ($249.95) $219.00 special, 6 bottles available
Robert Parker 98 points: “The limited production cuvee of 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape La Combe des Fous (60% Grenache, 20% Syrah, and the rest Muscardin, Vaccarese and Cinsault) is awesome. There have been many great vintages of this wine (2005, 2007, 2009 and 2011), but the 2010 flirts with perfection. One of the most complex aromatic expressions of Chateauneuf du Pape, it offers up notes of Christmas fruitcake, spring flowers, mulberries, blueberries, black raspberries, espresso beans and spice box. Full-bodied, opulent and voluptuously textured, its luxurious, lavish fruit conceals amazing levels of glycerin and alcohol. This wine possesses prodigious intensity, massive layers of fruit and an incredible 45-50-second finish. Forget it for 4-5 years, and drink it over the following 20-25 years.”RP
Cuvee du Vatican Chateau Sixtine Reserve CDP 2010 ($69.95) $59.00 special, 19 bottles available
Robert Parker 93-95 points: “In need of 4-5 years of cellaring, the infantile 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve Sixtine is a behemoth. Made from a blend similar to the 2009’s, the 2010 exhibits an opaque purple color in addition to a beautiful nose of melted licorice, blackberries, cassis, smoky barbecue embers, underbrush and soil overtones. Rich and full-bodied with a multilayered mouthfeel, this impressive, pure, well-built Chateauneuf will require patience. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2035.” RP
Cuvee Vatican Chateauneuf du Pape 2010 ($44.95) $36.00 special, 29 bottles available
Wine Spectator 92 points: “Very fleshy and succulent, with dark fig and linzer torte flavors that show anise and blackberry hints. Amble toasted spice and singed alder notes fill in on the finish, and this has a lovely silky feel despite its weight. Best from 2014 through 2026.” WS
Fortia Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Baron 2010 ($39.95) $32.00 special, 29 bottles available
Wine Spectator 92 points: “Superb 2010, showing ample heft to its core of crushed fig, plum and blackberry fruit, beautifully laced with espresso, bay leaf and warm stone notes, and then all carried by the racy precision of the vintage, with ample but sleek structure and a long, seamless finish. Best from 2014 through 2027.”WS
Janasse Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Chaupin 2010 ($149.95) $119.00 special, 3+ cases available
Robert Parker 98 points: “The 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Chaupin rivals the 2007 Chaupin (to date the best Chaupin I have yet tasted). Made from 100% Grenache (3/4 destemmed), it boasts a dense black/purple color as well as unbelievable notes of raspberries, black cherries, licorice, truffles, camphor, forest floor and garrigue. This wine is stunningly concentrated, incredibly noble, precise and expansive on the palate with mouth-saturating intensity, glycerin and extract. It is an amazing example of impeccably grown old vine Grenache translated into a natural yet full-throttle red.” RP
Lafond Roc Epine Chateauneuf Roc Epine 2010 ($49.95) $44.00 special, 9 bottles available
Robert Parker 93-95 points: “A potentially great wine in the making, the 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Roc-Epine (made from an identical blend) possesses awesome concentration as well as a gorgeous nose of roasted Provencal herbs, lavender, blueberries, blackberries and cassis. With good acidity, sweet, well-integrated tannins and super concentration, it will be drinkable in 2-3 years, and should evolve for 15+ years thereafter. These two Chateauneuf du Papes are both highly recommended.”RP
Mas De Boislauzon Chateauneuf du Pape 2010 ($49.95) $39.00 special, 21 bottles available
Wine Spectator 93 points: “This is dark but racy and driven, with a gorgeous Turkish coffee note giving way to flavors of roasted fig, blackberry paste and baker’s chocolate. Polished and seamless through the finish, with a tarry echo adding grip and length. Best from 2014 through 2027.” WS
Mas De Boislauzon Chateauneuf Le Tintot 2010 ($119.95) $79.00 special, 4 bottles available
Robert Parker 96 points: “The 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Le Tintot (100% Mourvedre) comes close to equaling Manfred Krankl and Philippe Cambie’s debut release of Chimere, which is also virtually all Mourvedre. If you can not find Chimere on retailers’ shelves, check out the 2010 Le Tintot as there are about 2,000 bottles produced. An amazing expression of fully ripe Mourvedre, it offers up notes of steak tartare, porcini mushrooms, blueberries, blackberries, charcoal and camphor. Incredibly dense and full-bodied with no hard edges (noteworthy for a 100% Mourvedre cuvee), this stunning wine needs 5-6 years of cellaring, and should keep for 40+ years.” RP
Pegau Chateauneuf De Pape Cuvee Reservee 2010 ($119.95) $95.00 special, 3+ cases available
Pegau Chateauneuf De Pape Cuvee Reservee 2010 1.5L ($249.95) $199.00 special, 9 bottles available
Robert Parker 96-98+ points: “The 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Reservee, which I tasted from several foudres, is essentially equivalent in quality, but it has not yet been bottled. If I understood Paul Feraud correctly, he tends to prefer the 2009, but says Laurence prefers the 2010. In any event, this is one of those “pick’em” dilemmas. The 2010 is a fabulous wine of exceptional intensity, tremendous flavor authority and full-bodied power. It is slightly more reserved than the more flamboyant 2009, but of course it is still in foudre. Very rich with lots of Provencal herb, smoky, meaty, kirsch, black currant and blackberry notes, it is a stunningly viscous, thick and rich effort with a slightly more vibrant finish. This magnificent Chateauneuf du Pape should age for three decades or more based on how well the 1989 and 1990 are maturing. This 2010 should be bottled early next year, and released in Fall, 2013.”RP
Pegau Chateuneuf du Pape Cuvee Capo 2010 1.5L ($999.95) $849.00 special, 1 bottle available
Robert Parker 98-100 points: “No Cuvee da Capo was made in 2009, but the 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee da Capo is composed of 80-85% Grenache and the rest a field blend of the other permitted varietals (Syrah, Mourvedre, Muscardin, Terret Noir, Counoise, Vaccarese, etc.). It is fashionable to compare the newest Capo with a previous vintage, and for me, the 2010 resembles 2007 more than their 2003, 2000 or 1998. The stunningly rich 2010 has close to 16% natural alcohol, and will be bottled after spending 18 months in old wood foudres. Notions of ripe figs, kirsch liqueur, cedar, Christmas fruitcake, smoked meats, charcuterie and beef blood are present in this staggeringly complex, rich, full-throttle, massive, intense wine. Drink it over the next 20-30 years.” RP
Perrin & Fils Chateauneuf Sinards 2010 ($39.95) $33.00 special, 3+ cases available
Wine Spectator 93 points: “Lush and inviting, with smoldering black tea weaving through the fleshy layers of melted fig, hoisin sauce, plum preserves and blackberry pudding. The dark ganache-coated finish has serious grip. Best from 2014 through 2025. Tasted twice, with consistent notes.” WS
Usseglio Chateauneuf du Pape Mon Aieul 2010 ($129.95) $99.00 special, 3 bottles available
Usseglio Chateauneuf du Pape Mon Aieul 2010 1.5L ($249.95) $219.00 special, 10 bottles available
Robert Parker 97 points: “The 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee de Mon Aieul (cropped at 12-16 hectoliters per hectare) comes from the estate’s finest vineyards in the southern part of the appellation (Les Grandes Serres), the eastern sector (the famed La Crau) and the northern sector (Guigasse). The wine is aged primarily in stainless steel tanks with a small percent (less than 20%) kept in 600-liter demi-muids. Despite the 16.5% natural alcohol, there is not a trace of heat in this wine. It is stunningly concentrated with great intensity as well as classic blueberry, peppery, incense, camphor, fig and licorice characteristics. Rich and full-bodied with slightly more freshness than their profound 2007, the 2010 Mon Aieul should age effortlessly for two decades.” RP
2011
The 2011 growing season was long, starting hot, cooling in the early summer, warming again in late summer and extending into the fall with cooling rains. This gave wine-makers a definite choice in harvesting early to retain acidity or later to produce the more modern, riper style.
Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc 2011 ($99.95) $69.00 special, 23 bottles available
Wine Spectator 93 points: “A lush, tropical style, with a lovely core of papaya and creamed peach backed by acacia honey and lightly toasted macadamia nut notes. The long, creamy finish has a beautiful mouthfeel, while the papaya note echoes on. Drink now through 2014.” WS
Beaucastel Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc VV 2011 ($199.95) $159.00 special, 18 bottles available
Wine Spectator 96 points: ” Dense, with creamy layers of pear, apple, green plum and acacia honey all carried by well-embedded acidity. The long finish lets salted butter, chamomile and macadamia nut flavors unfurl nicely, but there’s still plenty in reserve for cellaring. Best from 2013 through 2020.” WS
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Bosquet Des Papes CDP Chante Le Merle 2010 ($149.95) $119.00 special, 35 bottles available
Robert Parker 99 points: ” The 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Chante Le Merle Vieilles Vignes is a blend of 85% Grenache and the rest equal parts Syrah and Mourvedre from the same parcels as the 2011. The wine is aged primarily in foudres with small percentages of the Syrah and Mourvedre kept in new 600-liter demi-muids. A spectacular effort, it displays a confit of camphor, blueberries, blackberries, black raspberries, lavender and other floral notes. This full-bodied, massive Chateauneuf du Pape is remarkably light on its feet despite what must be 15+% alcohol. Incredibly pure and remarkably intense, this is a tour de force from Nicolas Boiron. It should drink well for two decades.” RP
Charbonniere Chateauneuf Brusquieres 2011 ($59.95) $49.00 special, 12 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 91-93 points: “Vivid ruby. Powerful spice- and smoke-accented aromas of dark berries and cherry. Shows very good clarity and lift to its black raspberry and floral pastille flavors, which gain weight with air. Chewy tannins come on late and add grip to a powerful, incisive finish.” ST
Charbonniere Chateauneuf Mourre Perdrix 2011 ($59.95) $49.00 special, 21 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 91-93 points: ” Vivid red. Spicy, mineral-driven aromas of red berries, spicecake and lavender show impressive purity and power. A racy, sweet midweight that offers pliant strawberry and raspberry flavors, with zesty minerality adding lift and spine. A floral quality builds with air and carries through a spicy, tannin-free finish. Very elegant, in an almost pinot noir-like way.” ST
Charbonniere Chateauneuf Vieilles Vignes 2011 ($59.95) $49.00 special, 12 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 90-92 points: “Bright purple. Heady aromas of blackcurrant, mocha, pipe tobacco and incense. Lush and expansive, with seamless, complex flavors of dark berries, candied flowers and spicecake. A suave, accessible wine, finishing with supple tannins and impressive length.” ST
Clos Des Papes Chateauneuf du Pape 2011 ($129.95) $99.00 special, 24 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 92-94 points: “I tasted the 2011 wine here in its four basic components, drawn from different foudres, followed by a sample of what Avril believes will be the final blend. #1: 75% grenache, 15% syrah and 10% mourvedre; intense, spice-accented red fruit aromas, with a sexy floral nuance and good back-end cut. #2: 50% syrah, 45% grenache and 5% everything else; richer and more masculine, offering deep dark fruit flavors and a hint of bitter chocolate; more serious than the first component but less precise and graceful. #3: 65% grenache and 35% syrah; graceful and silky in texture, offering vibrant red fruit and floral aromas and flavors. Very fresh, in an intriguing, pinot-like way, with excellent cut and length. #4: 65% grenache, 30% mourvedre and 5% syrah; emphatically spicy, with deep cherry and raspberry flavors and a hint of anise. The spiciness builds with air and carries through impressively. The final blend is bright ruby red with a heady bouquet of candied red fruits, potpourri and allspice, along with musky herb and mineral elements. Sappy and precise, with vibrant black raspberry and cherry flavors given lift by zesty acidity. Finishes clean and very long, with resonating floral and spice notes and harmonious tannins.” ST
Domaine Charvin Chateauneuf du Pape 2011 ($59.95) $49.00 special, 3+ cases available
Stephen Tanzer 91-93 points: “Bright ruby. Intense, perfumed aromas of red berries, minerals and smoky garrigue. Offers juicy raspberry and cherry flavors and a sexy note of lavender pastille, with a late kick of white pepper adding lift. Closes with very good clarity and length, showing only a hint of tannins. This wine will be very appealing soon after release.” ST
Ferrand Chateauneuf du Pape 2011 ($49.95) $39.00 special, 3+ cases available
Stephen Tanzer 90-92 points: “(94% grenache, with mourvedre, syrah and bourboulenc): Bright purple. High-pitched aromas of cherry, licorice, cracked pepper and lavender. Dense, spicy and chewy in texture, showing wound-up dark fruit and candied licorice character and a hint of bitter chocolate. Finishes smoky, spicy and long, with gentle tannins adding grip.” ST
Le Vieux Donjon Chateauneuf du Pape 2011 ($69.95) $59.00 special, 24 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 91-93 points: “Deep ruby. A wild, complex bouquet displays candied cherry, lavender, smoked meat and licorice. Sappy and penetrating, offering sweet cherry and floral pastille flavors and a smoky nuance. A note of bitter chocolate comes up with air and carries through a long, sappy finish. In an old-school style and quite a bit more feral than recent vintages for this property, which will please long-time fans.” ST
Olivier Hillaire Petits Pieds D’Armand 2011 ($119.95) $79.00 special, 11 bottles available
Robert Parker 92-95 points: “The ancient vine cuvee of 2011 Chateauneuf du Pape Les Petits Pieds d’Armand exhibits a dense ruby/purple color along with a big, sweet nose of kirsch liqueur, incense, black raspberries, bouquet garni and loamy soil undertones. Full-bodied with luscious fruit, this beauty should drink well for a decade. This tiny estate, which used to be part of the Domaine des Relagnes, produces two cuvees of Chateauneuf du Pape, the traditional cuvee from terroirs near Clos St.-Jean and Grand Pierre, and a 100% old vine Grenache offering called Les Petits Pieds d’Armand from ancient vines (nearly 110 years of age) planted in sandy soil. Besides making first-class wines, Olivier Hillaire is also the village’s top baker.” RP