July 31, 2014
Stephen Tanzer’s Josh Raynolds
on the 2014 Rose Releases
“We again implore wine lovers to consider rosé wines all year round rather than treat them as the seersuckers or white bucks of wine, to be consumed exclusively between Memorial Day and Labor Day. The fact is that rosés do, literally and figuratively, straddle the line between white and red wine, with most of them leaning toward the white side. That has become especially true in recent years as more and more pink wines emphasize lightness, of everything: color, weight, alcohol content and fruit profile. That usually means wines with nervy acidity, which is one of the essential building blocks for ageworthy wines of any color. Don’t believe me? Pop a bottle of top-notch rosé, follow it for a few days, and see what happens.
“America’s love affair with pink wines is looking pretty insatiable based on all anecdotal information I’m able to draw upon; if anything, it seems to be on the rise. Many sommeliers, retailers, wholesalers and the producers themselves have told me that rosés are actually easier to sell than white wines nowadays and that demand shows no signs of slowing down.
“Given the flexibility of rosé at the table this is hardly surprising. And as more and more pink wines are being made in a dry, racy style, their use as aperitifs continues to increase as well. I found fewer full-bodied rosés than in past years this spring and summer in spite of trying more new releases than ever before. While I applaud the movement toward brighter and more energetic rosés and personally prefer that style, some members of the trade grumble that it gets harder and harder to find full-bodied, fleshy pink wines, such as those made in the richer, old-school Tavel style every year.
“But I have also heard a few positive comments that the growing availability of the lighter, crisper versions now dominating the market has given the entire category much-needed credibility (remember that the days of sweet and innocuous white zinfandel weren’t that long ago). Either way, the fact is that we’ve never had so many high-quality rosés available now, and the odds of getting an excellent bottle are now solidly in your favor. Of course, they’re higher still if you seek out the wines I’ve reviewed below.”
Bergstrom Wines Pinot Noir Rosé Willamette Valley 2013 ($29.95) $24 special, 14 bottles available
Josh Raynolds 90 points “Light, bright orange. Ripe raspberry and cherry on the perfumed nose, with floral and white pepper qualities building with air. Bitter cherry and red berry flavors are energized by dusty minerality, which adds lift and cut. Gains depth and sweetness on the sappy finish, which finishes with resonating spiciness and a sexy rose pastille nuance. This rich yet lithe rosé has the verve to work with lighter foods and the heft and fruit power to handle strongly seasoned dishes.”
Matello Winery Rosé of Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2013 ($19.95) $16 special, 12 bottles available
RE-ARRIVING AUGUST 8TH – Josh Raynolds 90 points ($22) “Light orange. Lively and focused on the nose, displaying scents of fresh red berries, tangerine and white flowers. Silky, expansive strawberry and blood orange flavors show good depth, with a hint of white pepper providing lift and clarity. Closes clean, dry and taut, with lingering spiciness, an echo of candied flowers and excellent length.”
FRANCE-PROVENCE
Josh Raynolds 90 points “($25) (62% mourvedre, 18% cinsault, 16% grenache and 4% rolle): Light, bright orange. Musky, mineral-accented aromas of red berries, cherry pit and orange pith, with a subtle note of lavender emerging with aeration. Shows very good depth and energy, offering juicy red fruit flavors and a touch of bitter peach pit. Finishes supple and long, with building spiciness and an echo of candied flowers.”Domaine du Gros Nore Bandol Rosé 2013 ($37.95) $31.90 special, 12 bottles available
Josh Raynolds 91 points ($32) (40% mourvedre, 40% cinsault and 20% grenache): “Light orange. Displays powerful red berry and peach aromas, along with notes of blood orange, dusty minerals and lavender. Silky and expansive in the mouth, with pliant raspberry and floral pastille flavors given spine by juicy acidity and a zesty mineral note. Closes spicy and precise, with persistent minerality and a touch of orange pith.”
Domaine Tempier Bandol Rosé 2013 ($49.95) $41.90 special, 3+ cases available
Domaine Tempier Bandol Rosé 2013 375ML ($29.95) $24 special, 23 half-bottles available
Domaine Tempier Bandol Rosé 2013 1.5L ($119.95) $89 special, 10 magnums available
Josh Raynolds 92 points (50% mourvedre, 28% grenache, 20% cinsault and 2% carignan): “Bright orange-pink. Heady redcurrant, cherry pit, peach and floral scents are complicated by a bright mineral nuance and pick up a hint of ginger with aeration. Stony and penetrating on entry, then weightier in the mid-palate, offering intense red berry and bitter peach skin flavors and a touch of blood orange. Gains sweetness on the finish, which clings with excellent tenacity and resonating minerality.”
Domaines Ott Les Domaniers Cotes de Provence Rosé 2013 ($21.95) $18 special, 15 bottles available
Josh Raynolds 89 points ($20) (65% grenache, 25% cinsault and 10% syrah): “Light, bright pink. Aromas of fresh red berries and citrus fruits are complemented by suggestions of honeysuckle, mint and chalky minerals. Refreshingly brisk and light-bodied, showing good focus to its strawberry and bitter quinine flavors. Finishes dry and floral, with good clarity and a touch of cherry pit.”
Josh Raynolds 89 points “Pale orange. Pungent cherry and raspberry aromas are complicated by notes of anise, lavender and blood orange. Supple and broad on the palate, offering juicy, refreshingly bitter-edged red fruit and orange pith flavors. In a fairly ample style but not lacking for energy. The chew finish display a repeating red fruit note and firm grip.”Clos Cibonne Tibouren Cuvee Speciale des Vignettes Cru Classe 2012 ($31.95) $28 special, 9 bottles available
Josh Raynolds 93 points “Light, bright orange. A complex, highly perfumed bouquet evokes dried red fruits, orange pith, smoky minerals and toasted nuts, with a spicy nuance building with air. Fleshy and dry on the palate, offering intense cherry and bitter rhubarb flavors and a touch of lavender pastille. Finishes with outstanding energy and mineral-driven persistence, the floral note repeating strongly.”
FRANCE-LOIRE
Domaine de la Pepiere La Pepie Cabernet Franc Rosé Vin de France 2013 ($19.95) $16 special, 27 bottles available
Josh Raynolds 87 points “Bright pink. Pungent aromas of redcurrant and cherry pit, with subtle floral and herbal nuances adding complexity. Dry and chewy on the palate, offering bitter cherry and orange pith flavors and a touch of white pepper. Finishes somewhat rigid and tight, with echoing florality and good length.”
Charles Joguet Chinon Rosé 2013 ($27.95) $24 special, 19 bottles available
Josh Raynolds 89 points ($20) “Bright orange. Spicy, mineral-accented aromas of red berries, cherry pit and cracked pepper, with a subtle floral nuance coming out with aeration. Pliant raspberry and bitter cherry flavors firm up with air, taking on blood orange and peach pit qualities on the back half. Finishes supple and broad, with lingering red berry character and a touch of anise.”
FRANCE-CORSICA
Josh Raynolds 90 points ($34) (100% sciaccarellu, an Italian grape variety that is almost uniquely planted in Corsica): “Pale orange. Vibrant red berry, blood orange and floral aromas, with an intense mineral overlay and a hint of white pepper adding spiciness. Nervy and precise, offering juicy redcurrant and bitter citrus pith flavors, along with notes of succulent herbs and lavender. Spreads out and deepens on the finish, which clings with excellent focus and mineral-driven persistence.”Domaine Comte Abbatucci Gris Impérial Rosé Vin de France 2013 ($31.95) $28 special, 10 bottles available
Josh Raynolds 90 points ($27) (100% sciacarellu vines that were not pruned during the growing season): “Light, bright orange. Mineral-laced strawberry and tangerine aromas are complicated by notes of jasmine and succulent herbs. Shows very good clarity and lift to its juicy red fruit, rose pastille and spice flavors, which are given spine by tangy acidity. Finishes pure and linear, with repeating floral and red fruit notes.”FRANCE-RHONE
Chateau de Trinquevedel Tavel Rosé 2013 ($21.95) $18 special, 3+ cases available
Josh Raynolds 89 points ($19) (56% grenache, 20% cinsault, 10% clairette, 4% syrah, 4% bourboulenc, 3% mourvedre and 3% grenache blanc): “Light, bright orange. Ripe red berries and pit fruits on the deeply perfumed nose, with a subtle mineral quality adding lift. Fleshy and supple, offering juicy raspberry and bitter cherry flavors and a hint of candied rose. Finishes with good breadth and length, leaving a note of peach pit behind. “
Domaine Lafond Roc-Epine Tavel Rosé 2013 ($21.95) $18 special, 19 bottles available
Tenuta delle Terre Nere Rosato Etna Sicilia 2013 ($27.95) $24 special, 10 bottles available
Josh Raynolds 89 points (100% nerello mascalese): “Light orange-pink. Spice- and mineral-laced citrus fruit and red berry aromas show good clarity and a subtle floral nuance. Dry and sharply focused, displaying good heft to its bitter cherry and blood orange flavors. Finishes clean and tangy, with lingering pepper and spice notes”
SPAIN
Ameztoi Txakolina Rubentis Rosado, Getariako Txakolina 2013 ($21.95) $18 special, 3+ cases available
RE-ARRIVING AUGUST 8TH – Josh Raynolds 91 points “($20) (50% hondarribi beltza and 50% hondarribi zurri): Light, lurid pink. Fresh red berries and white flowers on the mineral-driven nose, with a touch of orange zest adding interest. Nervy, focused and pure, offering vibrant, lightly bubbly red berry and citrus zest flavors sharpened by bright minerality. Finishes bright, crisp and long, with emphatic repeating notes of red berries and dusty minerals. A bottle of this wine always disappears quickly.”Other Rose Wines Available Now that Josh Raynolds Missed but You Don’t Have To!USA-OREGON
Cameron Ramato Pinot Gris Rose 2013 ($27.95) $24 special, 10 bottles available
Winery note: “Rame: Italian for copper, ramato: copper-colored. Ramato is a copper-colored Pinot grigio made in the tradition of north-eastern Italy. A very tricky wine to pull off, the resulting lovely light orange libation is a blend of complex herbal aromas and stunning mouth feel. Very limited production.”
Evesham Wood Tempranillo Rose, Willamette Valley 2013 ($17.95) $14 special, 1 bottle available
USA-CALIFORNIA
Kapcsandy Family Winery Grand Vin Rose, Napa Valley 2010 ($59.95) $49 special, 1 bottle available
Robert Parker 92 points “The Cabernet Sauvignon-based 2010 Grand Vin Rose is naturally a more structured, powerful wine than the Roberta’s. Far from an easygoing Rose, the 2010 is going to need at least another 6-12 months in bottle. It is a powerful, imposing wine that will pair beautifully with a wide range of foods. Crushed flowers, mint and anise are all layered into the precise, striking finish. The 2010 is 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot that spent 18 months in neutral French oak. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2020.”
FRANCE-PROVENCE
Chateau Pradeaux Bandol Rose 2013 ($39.95) $33 special, 31 bottles available
Importer note: “The Bandol Rosé from Pradeaux is perhaps the most serious wine in this category. Robust, rich, and complex with an ability to age gracefully, this wine is based on Cinsault (50%) and Mourvèdre (50%), taking its slight orange tint from the latter cépage. The younger vines of the domaine (average age: 25 years) are utilized to produce a rare rosé with staying power and exceptional complexity. The Rosé is vinified by a direct pressing for 24 hours followed by fermentation in cement tanks at a controlled temperature of 18 degrees Celsius for about 15 days; the malo-lactic fermentation is blocked and the wine is usually bottled in mid-April of the following year. We import approximately 600 cases (7200 bottles) annually of this exceptional wine.”
Clos Sainte Magdeleine Cassis Rose 2013 ($39.95) $33 special, 14 bottles available
Wine Spectator 91 points “A brisk, vibrant version, with cherry pit and watermelon rind notes framing a core of blood orange zest, peach and nectarine flavors. Finely beaded acidity lets the finish ripple. Drink now.”
Domaine de Bagnol Cassis Rose 2013 ($31.95) $28 special, 6 bottles available
Importer note “The Rosé is produced from several parcels that comprise slightly less than 7 hectares of vineyards. The vineyards are clay and limestone, situated on a gentle slope with a north – northwest exposure. The blend is Grenache (55%), Mourvedre (31%) and Cinsault (14%). This Rosé is vinified by pressurage direct, the must is chilled to 12 degrees Celsius, the wine ferments at 18 degrees Celsius until it is completely dry; then, the wine is bottled during the first three months of the following year after a light filtration. Production tops out at about 40,000 bottles per annum; approximately 6000 bottles are allocated to the US market.”
Peyrassol Cotes de Provence ‘Commanderie de Peyrassol’ Rose 2013 ($24.95) $21.90 special, 30 bottles available
Importer note “For us, this wine is the classic representation of the pink-tinted wines of this region and is the workhorse wine of the estate. It carries a pale rose color, a lovely fruit blossom nose and finishes crisply dry with a stony touch that gives it class and elegance. The grape blend is usually Cinsault, Grenache and Syrah in varying percentages. The average age of the vines is 25 years or more. The Rosés of Peyrassol are made from the direct press method. The grapes undergo cold maceration before being pressed. This gives them their beautiful watermelon pink color. The fermentation takes place under controlled temperatures and is exceptionally long, resulting in rosés that are both lively, fresh and full-bodied. As production has increased at Peyrassol with the additional plantings, we too have increased our purchases. Our annual allotment is now between 40,000 to 50,000 bottles.”
FRANCE-CAHORS
Domaine Berangeraie Cahors Rose 2013 ($11.95) $9.90 special, 24 bottles available
Rose of Malbec
FRANCE-LOIRE
Eugene Carrel & Fils Rose, Savoie 2013 ($14.95) $11.90 special, 24 bottles available
Winery note: “80% Gamay and 20% Mondeuse. The unique assemblage of these two varieties give a fruity rose wine, agreeable and accessible. The clear ruby color leads you to the red fruit aromas (strawberries, raspberries, blackberries). The wine is round and appetizing. This wine goes well with cured meat, red and white meats as well as some exotic dishes.”
Lucien Crochet Sancerre Pinot Rose 2013 ($37.95) $33 special, 11 bottles available
Importer notes “Made exclusively of Pinot Noir harvested from several parcels … a mix of Oxfordian “caillottes” and Kimmeridgian “marne”. This Rosé is made using the direct press method with the whole berries entering the pressoir. The musts ferment in temperature-controlled cuves (85%) as well as a small percentage in older barrels (15%). The fermentation occurs over three weeks. The wines is bottled in the spring of the following year.”
Pascal et Nicolas Reverdy Sancerre Terre de Maimbray Rose 2013 ($29.95) $21.90 special, 4 bottles available
100% Pinot Noir
FRANCE-RHONE
Chateau de Manissy Tavel Rose 2013 ($17.95) $14 special, 24 bottles available
Winery note: “This strong aromatic wine, prolongs its freshness by an elegant and harmonious finish. Start your evening with this young and modern drink!”
ITALY
G. B. Burlotto Elatis Vino da Tavola Rose, Piedmont 2013 ($21.95) $17 special, 2 bottles available
Alois Lageder Lagrein Rose Alto Adige, Trentino-Alto Adige 2011 ($21.95) $17 special, 14 bottles available
SPAIN
Bodegas Muga Rosado, Rioja DOCa 2013 ($14.95) $10.90 special, 31 bottles available
Bodegas Muga Rosado, Rioja DOCa 2013 1.5L ($29.95) $26 special, 2 magnums available
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