Saturday, July 9th, 2016
Jump Start Sale: New CDP from Raymond Usseglio; Chassagne-Montrachet Rouge Staff Picks; New Rose Reviews from Josh Raynolds of Vinous Media; Bitouzet-Prieur; Chianti Gran Selezione; Priorat in Focus; Giovanni Corino; Lapierre – More Marcel has Landed!; Cameron Dundee Hills & Newly Reviewed Morgan Long Chardonnay; Arriving Friday: Hospices de Belleville Beaujolais from Drouhin; Rousseau 2012 & 2013s; Cantalupo – New Cuvee Arriving in August; New Reviews for Merkelbach German Rieslings from Mosel Fine Wines – Wines Arriving in the Fall
Jump Start Sale
Arriving Friday, July 18th from Raymond Usseglio
Domaine Raymond Usseglio & Fils Chateauneuf-du-Pape Cuvee Imperiale, Rhone 2013 750ML ($79.95) $39.90 pre-arrival special
Wine Advocate 93 points “Given the difficulty with Grenache in 2013, the Grenache-dominated 2013 Châteauneuf du Pape Imperiale (Vigne Centenaires) is a head-turner that offers terrific notes of plum, black cherries, mulberries, dried flowers and licorice. Brought up all in concrete tank, this medium to full-bodied, ripe, textured, yet structured Grenache will be better in a year or three, and drink well through 2025.”
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
The average price is $55
Chassagne-Montrachet Rouge Staff Picks
It’s tough to straightjacket wine, though laws and preconceptions sometimes try. Most of us think of Burgundy’s Chassagne-Montrachet as a white wine village, for good reason: they’re some of the world’s finest Chardonnays. Yet only a few generations ago Chassagne produced more red than white. The soils, of course, didn’t change. Limestone marl dominates portions of Chassagne’s vineyards, to the joy of Pinot Noir. And fortunately, no law or bias forbids growing reds in the white wine country of the Côte d’Or. Chassagne Rouge still exists, and remains delicious. The wine’s earthy, fruity, straight-forward character is a nice break from Burgundy’s more serious (and spendy) wines, though there is Premier Cru Chassagne red. And it reminds the palate of Oregon’s own Pinots. Serve a red Chassagne blind at a tasting and no one will guess its origin, while the wine’s humble-yet-dignified nature will no doubt impress. -Daniel
Domaine Jean-Noel Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet Cuvee L’Estimee, Cote de Beaune 2011 750ML ($37.95) $29 special, 36+ bottles available
Burghound 88 points “A very fresh and expressive nose of red and blue pinot fruit with pepper and earth hints leads to rich, delicious and nicely complex middle weight flavors that offer good persistence and only a mild touch of rusticity on the sappy finish. This should be approachable, and enjoyable, young if desired” BH
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
Domaine Bernard Moreau et Fils Chassagne-Montrachet Rouge Vieilles Vignes, Cote de Beaune 2013 750ML ($69.95) $59 special, 25 bottles available
“The 2013 Chassagne-Montrachet Vieilles Vignes Rouge is a blend of the oldest vineyards in the center of the appellation, between 40 and 50 years old. It is matured in a maximum 20% new oak. It has a dark berry, red plum and marmalade-scented bouquet that is fresh and lively. The palate is medium-bodied with crunchy redcurrant and cranberry fruit, crisp acidity and a slightly foursquare but focused finish. This just does not quite reach my expectations at the moment.” -Wine Advocate
“It’s impossible to discuss Chassagne-Montrachet without mentioning the name Bernard Moreau. Year to year, this celebrated producer vinifies and bottles some of the purest, most thought-provoking wines of the appellation. Employing a style of wine making that might best be described as hands-off, Bernard produces Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays that are sensual, opulent and utterly delicious.” -Importer note
“A pungent nose offers up notes of pepper, earth and red berry fruit scents. There is notably more volume and richness to the medium-bodied flavors that terminate in a mildly rustic finish where the supporting tannins are phenolically mature.” -Burghound
Domaine Jean-Marc Pillot Chassagne-Montrachet Rouge, Cote de Beaune 2013 750ML ($49.95) $39 special, 24 bottles available
“Pillot exploits over a hectare of vineyards planted in 1960 to Pinot Noir at the village level. This is a robust, cherry-flavored wine of strength and vigor. A simple, satisfying red from a village that should be more recognized for the quality of its reds, this being a prime example.” -Importer note
This is the only listing in the USA today!
Thomas Morey Chassagne-Montrachet Vieilles Vignes Rouge, Cote de Beaune 2013 750ML ($39.95) $36 special, 11 bottles available
“The wine is remarkably intense in colour and has aromas of fresh and ripe fruits. In the mouth it has concentration and structure. It is “chewy” and needs some time to reach its peak. This long-lived wine makes, while young, an excellent accompaniment to grilled red meats and, as it matures, will set off the flavours of meat dishes in sauce, or marinated game. A wine for all seasons, and one to remind us that Chassagne-Montrachet can and does produce high quality red wines at affordable prices.” -Winery note
This is the only listing in the USA today!
New Rose Reviews from Josh Raynolds of Vinous Media
Ameztoi Rubentis Rosado, Getariako Txakolina, 2015 750ML ($24.95) $20.90 special, 13 bottles available
Josh Raynolds—Vinous 92 points “Brilliant orange-pink. Incisive aromas of fresh red berries and tangerine pick up suave floral and mineral accents in the glass. Spicy, penetrating and nervy in character, offering powerful bitter cherry, red currant and orange zest flavors that stain the palate. Shows impressive flavor intensity but comes off weightless and lithe, showing excellent finishing focus and floral-tinged persistence. Given how dangerously easy this wine is to drink (the 10.5% alcohol is a factor, no doubt), I could imagine knocking back a magnum with ease and in no time flat.”
Domaine Brazilier Coteaux du Vendomois Tradition Rose, Loire 2015 750ML ($17.95) $14 special, 31 bottles available
Josh Raynolds—Vinous 89 points “Pale orange. Displays fresh, mineral-tinged orange zest and strawberry qualities on the nose and palate, with a hint of white pepper adding spiciness. Clean and nervy, with no excess fat and a bright, refreshingly bitter finish that show good intensity and persistence.”
This is the only listing in the USA today!
Domaine du Dragon Cotes de Provence Grande Cuvee Rose, Provence 2015 750ML ($19.95) $16 special, 36+ bottles available
Josh Raynolds—Vinous 90 points “Pale orange. Bright and energetic on the nose, displaying intense citrus fruit and red berry qualities and a touch of succulent herbs. Dry and tightly focused, offering zesty orange pith and red currant flavors underscored by a chalky mineral element. Closes nervy and long, echoing the mineral and citrus notes.”
Chateau Simone Palette Rose, Provence 2014 750ML ($79.95) $59 special, 3 bottles available
Josh Raynolds—Vinous 93 points “Light bright orange. A heady, mineral-tinged bouquet evokes dried red berries, orange pith, lavender and fresh bay, along with a hint of peach pit in the background. Silky, seamless and broad on entry and then more taut in the midpalate, offering juicy cherry and blood orange flavors and a hint of tarragon. Shows an intriguing blend of red and white wine qualities and finishes extremely long and sappy, leaving behind sexy floral, mineral and red berry notes.”
Arriving Next Week & Newly Reviewed:
Mas de Gourgonnier Les Baux de Provence Cuvee Tradition Rose, Provence 2015 750ML ($21.95) $18 pre-arrival special
Josh Raynolds—Vinous 90 points “Vivid orange-pink. Tangerine, ripe red berries and a floral nuance on the highly perfumed nose. Smooth, seamless and concentrated, offering pliant red fruit and candied orange zest flavors and a suggestion of succulent herbs. Finishes on a juicy berry note, showing strong persistence and an echo of bitter orange pith.”
Bitouzet-Prieur
Bitouzet-Prieur is the product of a marriage which links two great winemaking families – the Bitouzets of Volnay and the Prieurs of Meursault. Their operations span six generations, with Vincent Bitouzet and his son Francois currently at the helm; they’re among the oldest in the region as well as one of the first family-owned domaines to bottle their wines.
What you can expect is nothing short of classic age-worthy wines that are genuinely reflective of the terroir in each of their parcels. The Bitouzet-Prieurs owns roughly 12 hectares of vineyards, all farmed organically. Grapes are harvested manually and only native yeasts are employed in fermentation. What one can expect from their efforts is classic, age-worthy wines which genuinely reflect their respective terroirs.
Below are four of our most popular wines from the domaine
All available here now:
Domaine Bitouzet-Prieur Meursault Clos du Cromin 2011 750ML ($69.95) $49 special, 19 bottles available
Antonio Galloni–Vinous 92 points “The 2011 Meursault Clos du Cromin is all about freshness, energy and vibrancy. Lemon, white flowers, jasmine and a hint of spice are supported by clean veins of minerality that add tension and brightness. With time in the glass, the wine becomes increasingly more focused, vibrant and persistent. I very much like the sense of energy here.” AG
This is the only listing in the USA today!
Domaine Bitouzet-Prieur Meursault Santenots, Meursault Premier Cru 2011 750ML ($79.95) $59 special, 17 bottles available
Antonio Galloni–Vinous 93 points “The 2011 Meursault Les Santenots is first and foremost a wine of texture. Gracious and layered in the glass, the 2011 is endowed with considerable personality. White stone fruits, flowers anise and crushed rocks emerge over time, but the overall impression is one of pure silk. The style is rich, deep and resonant, while the balance is first-rate.” AG
This is the only listing in the USA today!
Domaine Bitouzet-Prieur Les Caillerets, Volnay Premier Cru 2011 750ML ($79.95) $59 special, 36+ bottles available
Domaine Bitouzet-Prieur Les Caillerets, Volnay Premier Cru 2011 1.5L ($179.95) $119 special, 7 magnums available
Antonio Galloni–Vinous 93 points “The 2011 Volnay Caillerets is one of the most explosive wines in this range. Black cherries, plums, licorice, smoke and tar literally jump from the glass. The 2011 is round and voluptuous on the palate, yet also backed up by considerable structure. Hints of cloves, new leather and sweet tobacco add the final layers of nuance. In 2011 there are just three barrels of Caillerets, one of which is new, a slightly higher ratio than is typically the case.” AG
This is the only listing in the USA today!
Domaine Bitouzet-Prieur Clos des Chenes, Volnay Premier Cru 2011 750ML ($79.95) $59 special, 11 bottles available
Antonio Galloni–Vinous 93 points “The 2011 Volnay Clos des Chênes is quite reticent today. There is plenty of depth and richness in the glass, even if all the elements aren’t fully formed just yet. Sweet tobacco, licorice, mint, spices and plums emerge over time, but only with great reluctance. The Clos des Chênes is going to require significant patience. Today, it is a bit compact.” AG
We offer 25 selections from Bitouzet-Prieur, browse our web store for the full list!
Gran Selezione
Chianti just got better. Starting with the 2010 vintage, growers in the region adopted a new classification, Gran Selezione (GS). It stands a tier above Chianti Classico Riserva and intends to present the terroir of Tuscany’s lauded Chianti vineyards in its essence. In contrast to Chianti Classico and Classico Riserva, GS wines contain 100% estate-grown fruit. Sangiovese composes at least 80% of the wine, leaving room for French or native-Tuscan varietals. Minimum alcohol is 13% (it’s 12.5% for Riserva), and the minimum total ageing for GS is 30 months (up from 24 months for Riserva). Before earning Gran Selezione status, all wines must first pass the GS panel blind tasting. And finally, when all is said and done, you have some of Italy’s finest wines ever, backed by the Gran Selezione label.
These wines have busted open Chianti’s doors with flavor, finesse, and sheer Italian pleasure, something like the Super Tuscans, but with more tradition. The balance and sophistication of GS wines prove the superior winemaking abilities of their producers, and sing of Chianti’s beauty. After tasting San Felice’s 2010 ‘Il Grigio Gran Selezione’ Wine Spectator’s Bruce Sanderson noted: “if San Felice’s new entry into the Chianti Classico Gran Selezione designation is any indication, this could be an exciting new era for Tuscany’s historic region.” The critics are already awarding 95 points and higher to this new breed of Chianti. We agree, and look forward to carrying more and more stunning Gran Selezione wines.
Gran Selezione Available Here Now
San Felice ‘Il Grigio da San Felice’ Gran Selezione, Chianti Classico DOCG 2011 750ML ($49.95) $38 special
Wine Enthusiast 95 points “A fantastic combination of power and finesse, this opens with aromas of under brush, ripe plum, truffle, leather, smoke and a balsamic note. The firm, delicious palate delivers fleshy black cherry, crushed raspberry, cinnamon and mocha. Velvety tannins support the juicy flavors.”
James Suckling 94 points “This is a classy Chianti Classico with lots of structure and depth plus firm tannins and a blueberry, black cherry and cedar character. Compacted and tight. Superb and complex. Lots going on. An excellent follow-through after the outstanding 2010. Give it two to three years to open.”
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
The average price is $47
Gran Selezione Arriving in September 2016
Felsina Berardenga ‘Colonia’, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2010 750ML ($149.95) $123 pre-arrival special
Wine Advocate 95+ points “When you hear the story of the effort that went into making the Colonia vineyard, you have to wonder if the fine folks at Fèlsina are absolutely mad. It took them two years of dynamite blasting to clear the imposing rock that had forced previous generations of the Poggiali family to virtually abandon this site. But an ambitious Giovanni Poggiali takes credit for making this spectacular vineyard what it is today. The wine produced here is quickly becoming the second flagship product after Fontalloro. The 2010 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Colonia is a wine of enormous beauty and depth. This is Sangiovese at its highest expression and any doubt I had about the previous vintage (which was the first time this wine appeared as a Gran Selezione) have been washed away by this current release. What really stands out are the wine’s precise mineral and graphite aromas that lend an incredible sense of focus and balance. The oak element is also beautifully integrated.”
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
Isole e Olena Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2006 750ML ($249.95) $189 pre-arrival special
Isole e Olena Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2006 1.5L ($499.95) $389 pre-arrival special
Wine Advocate 97 points “The 2006 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione is a controversial wine and for good reason. Proprietor Paolo De Marchi was initially opposed to the idea of introducing the Gran Selezione category above the Chianti Classico Riserva. But more than a year ago, the Institute of Masters of Wine held a special dinner in Florence and producers were invited to pour only Gran Selezione wines. Paolo had an amazing barrel of Sangiovese put aside for a commemorative wine to celebrate his 30th anniversary as a winemaker. He hoped to dedicate that wine as a special limited release. Because he also wanted to pour something of his at the Masters of Wine dinner, he declassified the wine and re-registered it as a Gran Selezione. This also explains why it is from an older vintage. Most of his peers inaugurated this new category with the 2010 vintage. Only 1,800 bottles were made (of which 500 are put aside for the family’s personal use) and the blend consists of Sangiovese with 12% Cabernet Franc and 8% Syrah. “I love Chianti Classico and I love super Tuscans,” says Paolo De Marchi. “This wine is a crossover of the two.” The wine shows gorgeous ripeness with brooding dark fruit, depth and extreme balance. This is a wine that makes a statement upfront both in terms of the quality of the aromas and its overall integrity and persistency.”
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
The average price is $207
Mid-West, East & South
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Regional Feature: Priorat
Solid as a Rock
Like a stubborn old vine growing from cleaved schist, Spain’s Priorat region refuses to abandon its ancient roots, no matter what the economic climate. Born in the 1100s, when Carthusian monks arrived with sacramental vines (probably Grenache) in hand, Priorat steadily produced wines for local consumption until the phylloxera louse devastated the vineyards. Reset. Grenache and Carignan were replanted in the late 19th century, and Priorat is famous for its old vines today, thanks to a late-1980s renaissance led by René Barbier et al.
With its poor, stony llicorella slate soils, and steep vineyard slopes reveling in the Mediterranean breeze, Priorat has the natural potential to grow great wines. Its best fruit comes from old Garnacha, which is exaggeratedly low-yielding (0.3 tons/acre) and deeply rooted into the Catalan earth. To this, vintners will add Carignan, or newer implants from abroad, such as Cabernet and Syrah. New French oak completes the modern recipe for Priorat, and the results taste rich, fruity, minerally, and concentrated, balanced with fine acidity and tannins. Many a Priorat can wait patiently in the cellar.
In the wake of Priorat’s time in the limelight, and the Great Recession, some growers began to offer simpler Priorat reds. More approachable in price and taste than the major Priorats, these wines capture the dark fruit and spice of the region. The Black Slate series of wines are a good example of this new direction in Priorat, a wine that will never give up.
Below, three of our most popular Priorat selections available here now:
Bodegas Marco Abella Mas Mallola, Priorat DOCa 2008 750ML ($49.95) $29 special, 19 bottles available
Wine Enthusiast 92 points “Dry, schisty aromas of cherry and spice are reserved and elevated. This is a bright wine with juicy acidity and complexity. Flavors of baked berry fruits are minerally at the core, while the finish is smooth, mature and steady, with lasting purity. Drink through 2019.”
Josh Raynolds–Vinous 91 points “(63% garnacha, 20% carinena, 11% cabernet sauvignon and 6% merlot; aged for 20 months in French oak): Deep ruby. Lively aromas of fresh red berries, potpourri, vanilla and pipe tobacco, with a hint of incense gaining strength with air. Fresh and lively on the palate, offering intense raspberry and cherry-vanilla flavors and a zesty blood orange note. Juicy, appealingly sweet and seamless, boasting very good energy and thrust to its smooth, gently tannic finish.”
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
The next best price is $42.99
The average price is $45
Alvaro Palacios ‘Les Terrasses’ Velles Vinyes, Priorat DOCa 2012 750ML ($44.95) $33 special, 36+ bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 92 points “Brilliant ruby. Potent, mineral-laced raspberry and cherry aromas are complicated by exotic floral and spice qualities, picking up white pepper and mocha accents with air. Seamless and sweet, offering silky red berry preserve flavors with a touch of allspice. Closes lively and precise, with sneaky tannins and a jolt of bitter cherry.” ST
Alvaro Palacios Camins del Priorat, Priorat DOCa 2015 750ML ($21.95) $18 special, 11 bottles available
Importer notes: “All the vineyards are in and around the village of Gratallops. The grapes are destemmed and sofly crushed. Fermentation is in stainless steel, cement and large wooden vats. Remontages and punching down. 8 months in barrels and wooden vats. 40% Garnacha, 30% Samso, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Syrah”
Please visit our website to view all of our Priorat selections (as well as our 86 total Spanish wines currently available!)
Giovanni Corino
The beautiful commune of La Morra became home to the famed Giovanni Corino and his family in 1952; at the time, most of the wine was sold to negociants with the remainder being consumed among the family and their friends. Come the mid-eighties, the family began bottling a Barolo under their own name. Dolcetto and Barbera were to follow, with a renewed focus on pruning and vine upkeep. Some wine was still sold off in order to invest in the cellaring of wines.
The use of sulfur and copper are strictly monitored and pesticides are only used when absolutely necessary. Cow manure is used as fertilizer, only indigenous yeasts are employed, and no filtration or clarification is performed.
Come 2005, the estate was split evenly between the family’s two sons, Giuliano and Renato. Giovanni Corino, the ‘classic’ estate, fell under Giuliano’s control, though the brothers get along well and often collaborate.
Giovanni Corino Wines Available Here Now
Giovanni Corino Dolcetto d’Alba 2011 750ML ($29.95) $14 special, 30 bottles available
Case-12 Giovanni Corino Dolcetto d’Alba 2011 750ML ($249.95) $149 special, 6 cases available (that’s only $12.42/bottle!)
Antonio Galloni 88 points “Corino’s 2011 Dolcetto d’Alba is an absolutely joyous, delicious wine bursting with juicy, varietal fruit. Plums, violets, tar and exotic spices flesh out on the vinous, inviting finish.” AG
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
Giovanni Corino Barbera d’Alba 2012 750ML ($24.95) $17 special, 30 bottles available
Case-12 Giovanni Corino Barbera d’Alba 2012 750ML ($249.95) $179 special, 3 cases available (that’s only $14.92/bottle!)
Antonio Galloni 88 points “The 2012 Barbera d’Alba is juicy, expressive and generous. Dark red cherries, plums, spices and licorice meld together in a pretty, vinous Barbera to drink over the next few years.” AG
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
Giovanni Corino Barolo DOCG 2010 750ML ($44.95) $29 special, 30 bottles available
Case-12 Giovanni Corino Barolo DOCG 2010 750ML ($479.95) $319 special, 3 cases available (that’s only $26.58/bottle!)
Wine Spectator 90 points “A fresh, elegant red, showing cherry, floral, loam and underbrush flavors. This is firm, yet ripe and long, with gripping tannins on the finish. Best from 2017 through 2030.” WS
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
The next best price is $39.99
Giovanni Corino Barolo Vigna Giachini, Barolo DOCG 2010 750ML ($59.95) $47 special, 25 bottles available
Case-6 Giovanni Corino Barolo Vigna Giachini, Barolo DOCG 2010 750ML ($299.95) $264 special, 4 six-packs available (that’s only $44/bottle!)
Case-12 Giovanni Corino Barolo Vigna Giachini, Barolo DOCG 2010 750ML ($599.95) $479 special, 5 cases available (that’s only $39.92/bottle!)
Wine Spectator 94 points “Focused, juicy and long, this red is packed with cherry, floral, tobacco and underbrush flavors. Still a bit tight now, but stays long. The sweet fruit returns on the finish. Best from 2018 through 2030.” WS
Domaine Marcel Lapierre
Morgon Mastery
Final 12 Bottles Here Now
Domaine Marcel Lapierre Cuvee Morgon 2014 750ML ($59.95) $49 special
Grapelive 93+ points “The Cuvee Marcel 2014 from Lapierre is a glorious serious Gamay that shows the future of how we think on this place and varietal, the new generation has arrived in the world and are making great wines, their own way. This is a wine that honors the past, especially the talents of the late Marcel Lapierre, but also delivers a message that without question Mathieu Lapierre is a gifted winemaker and communicator of tradition and terroir. The 2014 Lapierre Marcel starts with blueberry, violets, wild plum with tangy herbs and salty mineral essence leading to a medium full palate of blackberry, cherry, strawberry, dark currant and walnut oil. Minty anise, saline, shale and incense provide background music in this lovely and textured Gamay, this is special and decedent juice that should age beautifully and rewarding for at least a decade. The ultra-low dose of sulfur doesn’t take away the all-natural appeal, it just gives this beauty a little security for cellaring. These 2014 Lapierre Morgon(s) bring the same kind of joy and energy that you’d expect from top Burgundy, these are truly emotional and provocative efforts, bravo!”
Also Available from Domaine Marcel Lapierre
Domaine Marcel Lapierre Morgon ‘Cuvee Camille’ 2014 1.5L ($119.95) $89 special
VinopolNote: Cuvee Camille is second only to Cuvee Marcel in the Lapierre Morgon hierarchy and is an extremely limited release, typically not distributed in the USA. It is made from selected 50-75 year old vines on the Lapierre estate. Camille is the daughter of the late Marcel Lapierre and works now alongside of her brother, Mathieu, in the ongoing excellence of all that is Lapierre.
Don’t Panic!
We have more Cameron Dundee Hills
Our pick for the best value in Oregon Pinot in the 2014 vintage:
Cameron Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills 2014 750ML ($31.95) $24 special
VinopolNote: This is all declassified Abbey Ridge and Clos Electrique Pinot Noir that shows its pedigree: there are classic notes of dusty Dundee spice with fresh thyme and black raspberry. It’s elegant. It’s age-worthy. And it’s simply the best value we’ve tasted from the 2014 vintage. Only 400 cases made.
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
And don’t miss this inaugural release from producer Seth Morgan Long, newly reviewed by the Wine Advocate:
Morgen Long Chardonnay Willamette Valley 2014 750ML ($59.95) $49 special
Neal Martin – Wine Advocate 91 points “The 2014 Chardonnay spent 11 months in barrel with seven months on the lees. I like the precision here, almost Chablis-like with flinty scents merging with the citrus fruit – all tightly coiled. The palate is very well balanced with peach and dried apricot notes, a fine bead of acidity, good tension with a brisk and focused finish. For a debut Chardonnay, it’s clear that he has worked alongside people that know how to make great wine and now it is about to benefit Oregon. Look out for this guy. Morgen Long is a tiny bijou label that is worth keeping a lookout for. Seth Morgen Long is a good pal of Jim Maresh at Arteberry Maresh and cheekily asked if he could slip it into my tasting chez lui. Well, if the quality is as good as his Chardonnay, then I have no qualms at all. I didn’t meet Seth, but through the power of Facebook gleaned all there is to know about him apart from inside leg measurement. He worked in Santa Cruz, New Zealand and Burgundy before purchasing just over a ton of Chardonnay from dry-farmed, own-rooted vines in Yamhill. The Chardonnay undergoes a long and hard pressing, natural ferment without any sugar addition; this is straightforward winemaking, which in my opinion is always the best. As far as I know, this is the only release. Look him up on Facebook and see if you can nab a bottle.”
Winemaker’s note “With a bright platinum hue & slightly hazy clarity, an array of cool, fresh & dense Chardonnay aromatics open this wine, offering subtle lemon crème, lime oil, citrus blossom, salted almond, ginger & flinty, wet rocks. As the wine warms, its scent shifts to peach, fennel, crushed lemongrass & honeycomb. Vibrant acidity and sappy fruit are well-integrated with oak, dry extract & weight, the flavors of honeycomb, lime, peach pit, brine, almond meal & white flowers finish long with the warmth of ginger & lemon. Serve between 45°-55°. Hand harvested from 1984 plantings of 108 Clone Chardonnay. Whole cluster pressed. Aged in 28% new French oak. Natural malolactic, aged on lees for seven months.”
VinopolNote: superb first release; Seth Morgan Long spent years making this wine in his mind, before spending the past 18 months making it in the winery. He’s drawn his wine-making tutelage and experiences from all the right places.
This is the only listing in the USA today!
Arriving Friday
Premier Vintage by Maison Joseph Drouhin
Of the historic Hospices de Belleville
The Hospices de Belleville estate dates to the late 18th century. It was established to benefit the sick and poor and now owns 34 acres of Beaujolais cru vineyards. In 2014, Maison Joseph Drouhin joined with the hospital to provide viticultural and winemaking oversight (as well as a little marketing support!). The Maison is off to a fantastic start, garnering some of Burghound’s highest scores ever for Beaujolais (and the top scores of the vintage).
Maison Joseph Drouhin Hospices de Belleville Beaujolais Arriving Friday, July 15th:
Maison Joseph Drouhin – Domaine des Hospices De Belleville Brouilly 2014 750ML ($24.95) $21.90 pre-arrival special
Burghound 91 points “Like the Fleurie this is exceptionally pretty and actually a bit spicier and more complex if otherwise similar. There is equally good punch and delineation to the delicious, supple and seductively textured flavors that deliver very fine depth and length. This isn’t quite as refined as the Fleurie but the depth is even better.”
“The 2014 Brouilly ($23) is, predictably, the lightest of the three wines, but lightness and freshness can be very much an asset in Beaujolais wines. With floral and peppery aromas, red fruit flavors, supple tannins and a slight earthy note on the finish, this wine is delicious and delightful.” –Mary Ewing-Mulligan WineReviewOnline.com
Maison Joseph Drouhin – Domaine des Hospices De Belleville Fleurie 2014 750ML ($29.95) $24 pre-arrival special
Burghound 91 points “An exceptionally pretty nose features notes of spicy cherry, raspberry and soft earth nuances. There is good vibrancy and lovely detail to the utterly delicious middle weight flavors that terminate in a dusty, cool and nicely balanced finale that exhibits just a trace of youthful austerity. This will need a few years to add depth but it is already quite pretty and very Fleurie.”
“The 2014 Fleurie ($25) is spicier and more savory than the Morgon, with a bit more tannin and a bit less exuberance. The aromas are floral first and then red-berried, with peppery notes on the palate; the texture shows some grip compared to the utter fluidity of the Morgon. This Fleurie to me seems to be holding back a bit, and I am curious to taste how it will develop over the next year.” –Mary Ewing-Mulligan WineReviewOnline.com
Maison Joseph Drouhin – Domaine des Hospices De Belleville Morgon 2014 750ML ($24.95) $21.90 pre-arrival special
Burghound 92 points “There is a hint of Maraschino cherry to the cool, airy and elegant red berry fruit suffused nose that exhibits an excellent range of spice elements. There is once again excellent punch and detail to the slightly bigger and richer medium-bodied flavors that deliver beautiful depth and length on the impeccably well-balanced finale. I very much like the overall sense of harmony and this offers incredible value for money.”
“The Morgon is a beauty: rounded and rich, with firm acid-and-tannin structure, and an exuberance of red fruits that is the wine’s salient characteristic. The texture is silky, the finish is long and savory, and the overall taste is harmonious and complete.” –Mary Ewing-Mulligan WineReviewOnline.com
Rousseau
2012 Here Now
2013 Arriving in September
Domaine Armand Rousseau Pere et Fils Clos de la Roche Grand Cru 2012 750ML ($499.95) $349 special, 6 bottles available
John Gilman 94 points “The 2012 Clos de la Roche from Éric Rousseau was raised in somewhere between ten and fifteen percent new oak in this vintage, which has allowed all of the beautiful fruit and soil tones to stay front and center in this seamless beauty. The deep and very sappy nose wafts from the glass in a complex mélange of cherries, pomegranate, mustard seed, venison, very complex soil tones, woodsmoke and a faint whisper of cedar. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and nicely reserved out of the blocks, with a sappy core of pure fruit, great mineral drive, fine-grained tannins and a very, very long and utterly refined finish. Another great wine! 2022-2060.”
Neal Martin-Wine Advocate 92-94 points “For the first time a little new oak (10%) has been used on the 2012 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, where part of the vineyard was replanted five years ago. The fruit here is a little blacker than the Mazis-Chambertin tasted prior, that new oak ‘plugging’ the gaps that might have been there without the new wood. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins on the entry. There is a citric core of fruit here, touches of marmalade infusing the black and red fruit on the linear, mineral finish. This should age very well — a Clos de la Roche with substance and presence.”
Stephen Tanzer-Vinous 92-94 points “(10% new oak; from very ripe fruit picked early, according to Rousseau): Bright, dark red. Complex, primary nose melds sappy cherry, spices and rose petal. Tangy, sweet and fine-grained in the mouth, offering an exhilarating combination of urgent crushed fruits, flowers and loamy earth tones. Finishes with lovely stony length and reserve. Really shimmers on the aftertaste.”
Fine Wine Review 91-94 points “The Clos de la Roche is raised 90% in 1-year old barrels and 10% in new ones. Still more substance here, and the wine is elegant with spicy dark fruit, good length, and minerality. (Issue #141; 2014)”
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The average price is $407
2013 Vintage Arrives in September
Domaine Armand Rousseau Pere et Fils Chambertin Grand Cru 2013 750ML ($1,999.95) $1,199 pre-arrival special
Antonio Galloni 96-98 points “The 2013 Chambertin is shaping up to be one of the wines of the vintage. Aristocratic in its bearing, the Chambertin is simply magnificent today. The overall impression is of a totally spherical wine that has no beginning and no end. Layers of flavor continue to open up in the glass in a sublime, textured wine that captures the truest essence of what Burgundy is all about. The pulsating, vibrant finish is classic 2013.”
Stephen Tanzer-Vinous 97 points “Very good deep red. Closer to the CSJ than to the CDB on the nose, offering terrific pungent lift to the aromas of black raspberry, rose petal and blood orange. Wonderfully sappy and pure, without any impression of weightiness to its saline flavors of raspberry, spices and white pepper. Utterly fine-grained, silky wine with great finesse. One of the longest, most palate-saturating wines of this vintage, finishing with noble tannins and taste bud-titilllating perfume. Perfectly balanced also but built for a glorious evolution in bottle. It would be a shame to open this bottle too soon.”
Neal Martin-Wine Advocate 94-96 points “Matured in 100% new oak, the 2013 Chambertin Grand Cru has wonderful transparency on the nose, beautifully defined with Morello, crushed strawberry, limestone and orange sorbet. The palate is supremely well balanced with lithe tannins, beautiful acidity and real elegance on the finish. This is a sublime Chambertin, but I might hedge my bets with the Clos de Bèze this year.”
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The average price is $1,396
Domaine Armand Rousseau Pere et Fils Chambertin Clos-de-Beze Grand Cru 2013 750ML ($1,999.95) $1,299 pre-arrival special
Neal Martin-Wine Advocate 95-97 points “The 2013 Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru has a more complex, nuanced bouquet than the Clos Saint Jacques and this year, it insists upon putting distance between the two. It has an effortless quality, unfurling with each swirl dark berried fruit, subtle moss/undergrowth tones that are almost autumnal. The palate is tensile, intense, focused and underpinned by filigree tannins that lend it magnificent sophistication. This is utterly harmonious and an outstanding wine for the vintage.”
Antonio Galloni 94-97 points “Another striking wine, the 2013 Chambertin-Clos de Bèze is beautifully layered and expressive today. Violets, lavender, dark spices, mint and new leather meld together as this striking, translucent wine shows off its unmistakable personality. This is an especially refined Bèze with perhaps a bit less power than is customary, but that is not at all a bad thing. As always, the new oak (80%) is quite evident today, but that should not be an issue, as I can’t imagine opening a bottle of the 2013 before its tenth birthday, and even that will be too soon for the wine to deliver the full breadth of its pedigree.”
Stephen Tanzer-Vinous 94+ points “Good dark red. More closed today than the Clos Saint-Jacques, showing a stronger oak presence to its reticent aromas of dark raspberry, strawberry and blood orange. Then hugely rich, opulent and pliant on the palate if still youthfully reserved. Completely different in shape from the Clos Saint-Jacques, conveying a strong impression of solidity and saline minerality. Finishes with big but ripe, thoroughly integrated tannins. This may not have quite the fruit intensity or verve of the 2014 but it still leaves the salivary glands humming.”
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The average price is $1,463
Domaine Armand Rousseau Pere et Fils Clos de la Roche Grand Cru 2013 750ML ($399.95) $333 pre-arrival special
Neal Martin-Wine Advocate 93-95 points “The 2013 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, which will contain some new oak although I tasted from a used barrel, has a tightly knit bouquet that at the moment is less expressive than the Mazis-Chambertin. The palate is crisp and pure, quite tensile, with a spiciness that becomes more prominent toward the fleshy, harmonious finish. Curiously, even from a used barrel the texture feels as if there is some new oak, but that is just the concentration of fruit coming through. Frédéric enthused about this wine and I suspect that it may surpass my expectations once in bottle.”
Antonio Galloni 92-95 points “Distinctly chalky, ferrous notes announce the 2013 Clos de la Roche, a wine marked by its intense, saline-infused energy. A wine of notable complexity and pedigree, the 2013 offers striking nuance from start to finish. White pepper, chalk and citrus lend additional lift to the energetic, taut finish. There is a lot to look forward to here.”
Stephen Tanzer-Vinous 91-94 points “(no new oak): Bright medium red. Musky, reduced nose offers blackberry, licorice, minerals and smoky underbrush, lifted by a violet topnote that carries onto the palate. Juicy, sappy and intense, with its dark fruit flavors complicated by soil-driven salinity. At once fat and sharply delineated, this taut grand cru finishes salty and long.”
Domaine Armand Rousseau Pere et Fils Clos Saint-Jacques, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru 2013 750ML ($999.95) $569 pre-arrival special
Antonio Galloni 94-97 points “Rousseau’s 2013 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St. Jacques possesses gorgeous aromatic lift and energy. Polished and refined throughout, the 2013 is super-expressive. Winemaker Frédéric Robert adds that the grapes were especially small in 2013, with virtually no juice. Once again, Rousseau’s Clos St. Jacques looks to be one of the wines of the vintage.”
Stephen Tanzer-Vinous 95+ points “Good deep red. Much less reduced on the nose than Ruchottes, offering captivating, high-pitched perfume of raspberry, rose petal, blood orange and crushed stone. On the palate, the tangy raspberry, red cherry and mineral flavors show a penetrating character and superb lift without any weightiness or hardness. Finishes with very fine-grained tannins and mounting floral perfume. This brisk, cool, aristocratic wine is built for a graceful evolution in bottle.”
Domaine Armand Rousseau Pere et Fils Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru 2013 750ML ($399.95) $333 pre-arrival special
Neal Martin-Wine Advocate 93-95 points “The 2013 Mazis-Chambertin, matured in second-fill barrels, has a refined bouquet that is not a million miles away from the Charmes-Chambertin at the moment, but very precise and focused. The palate is very well balanced with tensile tannins and a keen thread of acidity: vibrant and shimmering in the mouth. With plenty of energy on the finish, this is a superb Mazis-Chambertin for the vintage.”
Antonio Galloni 91-93 points “The 2013 Mazy-Chambertin shows slight elements of reduction, but the signatures of this site come through nicely just the same. Sweet red cherries, red currant, hard candy, flowers and mint are laced together in a soft, lighter Burgundy that should drink well with minimal cellaring as long as the reductive elements don’t make it into bottle.”
Stephen Tanzer-Vinous 91-93 points “Good bright red. Reduced, wild nose hints at iron and game. Concentrated, rich and taut, with sappy, savory dark fruit and saline flavors displaying excellent lift. Firmly structured and in need of patience.”
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Cantalupo
In the Nebbiolo country of northern Piedmont – removed from the star-studded Langhe – exist a few regions whose wines render that noble grape in a beautiful, more delicate style, at approachable prices. Gattinara is one, and Ghemme is another. From here in Ghemme, beneath the imposing Alpine peak of Monte Rosa, come the wines of Cantalupo. With 84 acres under vine, family-owned Cantalupo has been making Nebbiolo wines since 1969. Soils here are alluvial, from glacial moraines retreated during the last Ice Age, a change from the Langhe. Cantalupo performs all of the vineyard work, including harvest, by hand, and uses traditional Slavonian oak along with some French oak. The wines are raised in a cellar cut into the hillside, and they show plenty of elegance and red fruit, with a medium-full body. Any fan of Nebbiolo ought to know the name Cantalupo, and its cooler-clime version of Italy’s premier red grape.
Cantalupo Wines Available Here Now:
Antichi Vigneti di Cantalupo Il Mimo Nebbiolo Rosato Colline Novaresi, Piedmont 2015 750ML ($19.95) $16.60 special, 9 bottles available
VinopolNote: The juice is pressed after one night on the skins followed by a slow, temperature-controlled fermentation. The wine is left to settle and bottled after about 5 months. It is bright and fresh with classic Nebbiolo nuances.
Antichi Vigneti di Cantalupo ‘Agamium’ Colline Novaresi 2009 750ML ($21.95) $18 special, 36+ bottles available
Antonio Galloni 91 points “The 2009 Colline Novaresei Agamium is floral, bright and deeply expressive, with plenty of lift and red stone fruit character. Feminine and gracious throughout, the 2009 offers considerable grace and plenty of near to medium-term appeal. A final burst of Chambolle-like fruit rounds out the finish.”
Antichi Vigneti di Cantalupo Collis Carellae, Ghemme DOCG 2009 750ML ($49.95) $39 special, 35 bottles available
Antonio Galloni 94 points “A big, dense wine, the 2009 Collis Carellae shows the wilder, gamier side of Ghemme. Leather, smoke, cedar, tobacco and menthol make a strong first impression. The 2009 possesses tons of depth and vertical structure. Some of the initial elements of rusticity blow off with air, so readers should be ready to open the 2009 in advance. There is no shortage of personality. That much is clear.”
Antichi Vigneti di Cantalupo ‘Cantalupo Anno Primo’ Colline Novaresi 2008 750ML ($39.95) $33 special, 10 bottles available
Antonio Galloni 90 points “The 2008 Cantalupo Anno Primo is built on a serious spine of tannin and energy, both of which give it considerable power. Dark red cherry, tobacco, smoke, herbs and leather are all expressed with quite a bit of intensity. The 2008 offers solid balance in a virile style that is probably best enjoyed at the dinner table.” AG
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Antichi Vigneti di Cantalupo Collis Breclemae, Ghemme DOCG 2007 750ML ($59.95) $49 special, 8 bottles available
Antonio Galloni 92+ points “The 2007 Ghemme Collis Breclamae shows the deeper, slightly wilder side of Ghemme. Game, smoke, licorice, cedar and tobacco are expressed with elements of burliness and rusticity. There is more than enough depth to fill out the wine’s broad shoulders. Still, what comes through most is the wine’s virile, imposing personality.” AG
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Cantalupo Wines Arriving in August
Antichi Vigneti di Cantalupo ‘Cantalupo Anno Primo’ Colline Novaresi 2009 750ML ($44.95) $38 pre-arrival special
Case-12 Antichi Vigneti di Cantalupo ‘Cantalupo Anno Primo’ Colline Novaresi 2009 750ML ($479.95) $399 pre-arrival special (that’s only $33.25/bottle!)
Antonio Galloni 92 points “The 2009 Cantalupo Anno Primo is a gorgeous, super-classic Ghemme. Rosewater, bright red cherry, geranium, tobacco, pine and mint are beautifully delineated throughout. Aromatically intense and focused, the 2009 shows exactly what makes Nebbiolo from Ghemme so delicious. This is an absolutely gorgeous wine that won’t break the bank. At times, the aromatic signatures are quite reminiscent of Mascarello’s Barolo Monprivato, although the tannic and acid signatures are very much those of Ghemme.”
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Antichi Vigneti di Cantalupo Signore di Bayard, Ghemme DOCG 2006 750ML ($59.95) $41.90 pre-arrival special
VinopolNote: A special bottling of 100% Nebbiolo produced by the winery only in the best years, the Signore di Bayard is a tribute to the 16th Century Knight of Bayard, Peter Terrail, the “Good Knight without fear and without reproach.” It is a block selection of the oldest vines from the estate. These vines are growing in gravel moraine soil at 280-310m (306-340’) in elevation. The grapes are hand-picked and sorted before undergoing a cold soak. Fermentation takes place naturally with the stems. The wine is aged for 18 to 24 months in 100% new French oak barrels before being bottled unfiltered. It is a dense and tannic wine with an excellent aging potential.
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New Reviews from Mosel Fine Wines
Wines Arrive Fall 2016
Merkelbach
Terry Thiese (Riesling maven, marketeur & provocateur) has named Merkelbach co-winner of his Winery of the Year proclamation for this 2015 vintage. Terry of course looks beyond Donnhoff & Schaefer in this awarding. The Merkelbach brothers, Alfred and Rolf, age 82 and 79 respectively, make classic Mosel wine from a mere five acres, without frills. In 2015, the Merkelbachs “slipped into some sort of apotheosis,” writes Theise. “[They] seem to have pared away even the pared-away-ness, so that what remains is a kind of divinity.” Yes, we are offering you bottled bliss.
Newly Reviewed Merkelbach Wines Arriving Fall 2016
Weingut Alfred Merkelbach Kinheimer Rosenberg Riesling Spatlese #2 2015 750ML ($27.95) $21.90 pre-arrival special
Mosel Fine Wines 92 points “A superbly floral and airy bouquet of yellow peach, bergamot and pink grapefruit emerges from the glass. Intense juicy fruits on the palate are nicely balanced out by a light and airy sense of freshness in the long and delicate finish. This Spatlese, certainly by the Estate’s standards, should prove delicious and elegant. 2022-2035.”
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Weingut Alfred Merkelbach Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Spatlese #1 2015 750ML ($29.95) $21.90 pre-arrival special
Mosel Fine Wines 91 points “An expressive nose of fresh fruits including pineapple, grapefruit and peach leads to a mouth-coating feel on the palate and a lively and energetic structure in the zesty finish. The grapefruit and citrus driven finish is full of freshness and lightness. This is a superb Spätlese in the making. 2023-2035.”
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The next best price is $24.65
Weingut Alfred Merkelbach Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Spatlese #6 2015 750ML ($29.95) $21.90 pre-arrival special
Mosel Fine Wines 92 points “This Spätlese was made fruit with moderate sugar levels (less than 90° Oechsle). It offers a very fine and elegant aromatic profile driven by notes of zest, grapefruit, mint and pineapple. A clean, zesty and zippy structure delivers a dynamic and playful wine on the palate. The fruit driven aromatics lead to a clean and focused long finish. This is quite a superb light yet intense Spätlese. 2025-2040.”
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Weingut Alfred Merkelbach Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Spatlese #10 2015 750ML ($31.95) $24 pre-arrival special
Mosel Fine Wines 93 points “Harvested at 95° Oechsle, this offers a superbly complex and refined bouquet of spices, freshness, flowers and grapefruit all wrapped into some whipped almond cream on the nose. A delicate, airy and dynamic structure reinforces the juicy feel on the palate. Despite its inner weight and depth, the wine manages to retain some real Spätlese character. The finish is herbal, focused and very long. This great success should prove a stunner in a decade! 2025-2045.”
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The next best price is $26.10
Weingut Alfred Merkelbach Kinheimer Rosenberg Riesling Auslese #5 2015 750ML ($31.95) $24 pre-arrival special
Mosel Fine Wines 91 points “This offers a ripe nose of pink grapefruit, yellow peach, pineapple, pear and banana. Ripe expressive fruits lead to a juicy, well-structured and intense spicy wine on the palate. The smooth and long finish delivers dried spices, bergamot and a touch of power in the background. This is quite a powerful Auslese in the making which will be best enjoyed earlier than later. 2020-2030.”
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Also Arriving in the Fall (Not Reviewed):
Weingut Alfred Merkelbach Kinheimer Rosenberg Riesling Kabinett #4 2015 750ML ($24.95) $19 pre-arrival special
Terry Theise: “The numbers are the Fuder numbers, to distinguish multiple bottlings, though in this case there’s just one Kin-Ros-Kab. Yet it is known as Fuder number 4 because that’s how intimately these things are known. The wine is perfect; angular, salty, solid yet lissome, piquant and not very sweet, but large-scaled with an impact of slate that doesn’t yield an inch. Wonderful and pure.”
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The next best price is $21.75
Weingut Alfred Merkelbach Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Spatlese #7 2015 750ML ($29.95) $21.90 pre-arrival special
Terry Theise: “This is complete and entirely striking, for its purism and lack of (nor need for) makeup; it’s the opposite of spiffy, a genius but an autodidact, with savant-like expressiveness; force, dignity and length, it squares the circle and culminates the culture.”
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Have a lovely weekend!