Vinopolpick Saturday – Old World New Releases

August 2, 2014

Four Old World Producers 

The story of Jules Desjourneys begins when Fabien Duperray acquired some very old vines in some of the best terroirs of Beaujolais. After distributing some of the finest estates of Burgundy for 20 years, Duperray was offered a chance to acquire some very old vines in some of the best terroirs of Beaujolais, a dream come true this Beaujolais lover, where he relished the opportunity to show its potential. Fabien pays attention to quality and detail like a fine artisan, weeding his bio-dynamically raised vines by hand, aging in custom barrels, and extended elevage for 36 months.  With close attention to every detail of the winemaking process, the results are nothing short of stunning. The wines are very limited but once tasted, you will understand what led David Schildknecht to write upon tasting the Desjourneys wines for the first time “The big story is some of the most remarkable Beaujolais wines of my experience, and perhaps ever rendered.”

Jules Desjourneys L’Interdit 2008 ($39.95) $29 special 12+ bottles available
Arriving August 7th
David Schildknecht – The Wine Advocate 93 points “The wine that will be known as 2008 Desjourneys is none other than Duperray’s 2008 Fleurie–combining Chapelle des Bois and Les Moriers–that was refused appellation and so is officially, merely, “vin de France.” Believe me, this is “vin de France” in the same sense that Debussy signed many of his late masterpieces “musicien francais.” The high-toned floral, herbal, and fruit distillate esters that memorably marked the Chapelle des Bois from cask as well as the black tea-tinged and more bittersweetly herbal and concentrated dark berries of the original Les Moriers, have been preserved in this marriage-in fact, after recovering from my chagrin at this wine’s having been denied its rightful appellation, I am now entirely reconciled to the two sites having been blended, inasmuch as the whole seems, remarkably, even greater than the sum of its already profoundly delicious parts! This finishes with mouthwatering salinity and a tenacious, almost Gewurztraminer-like meld of brown spices concentrated floral and herbal essences. I would anticipate it being worth following for half a dozen years, but on no account should it be missed earlier-on.”

“Few estates in the world can claim to have maintained the highest quality standards uninterrupted for half a century and more.  Joh Jos Prüm, the most famous of the many Mosel wine estates bearing the Prüm name, is one estate that can.  Since the early 1920’s its wines have been among Germany’s best, Rieslings with the Mosel’s vivacious aroma and racy elegance in its highest form.” — Stuart Pigott, The Wine Atlas of Germany

The wine region of Mosel, officially shortened from Mosel-Saar-Ruwer in August 2007, is home to the prestigious JJ Prum estate.  The region runs along the Mosel River and its Saar and Ruwer tributaries.  Its top sites are located in the middle section of the Mosel River (the mittelmosel) between the villages of Bernkastel-Kues and Erden.  The cool, northern continental climate necessitates planting along slopes as steep as 65 degrees for maximum sun exposure.  These steep Mosel sites are highly labor intensive to farm, requiring hand harvesting.  The vines are aided in the best sites by the sun reflecting off of the river as well as the ability of the slate soil to absorb heat during the day and release it during the night.  Mosel white wines are considered some of the best white wines in the world with decades-long aging potential.  They are noted for an elegant balance between sweetness and acidity, with expansive floral and stone fruit notes.  Mosel wines are typically lighter in body and lower in alcohol than examples from other German regions.

The JJ Prum winery and its top vineyard sites are located in the village of Wehlen in the center of the mittelmosel; their other vineyards are in the surrounding towns of Zeltingen-Rachtig, Graach an der Mosel, and Bernkastel-Kues.  The Prum family has a long history in the region dating as far back as the 12th century.  In 1911, Johann Josef Prum founded the winery from a share of his grandfather’s 42 acre estate (the estates of S. A. Prum, J. Christoffel Jr., and Dr. Loosen, among others, were founded or expanded in part by other branches of the Prum family tree).  Only a few years after its foundation, JJ Prum’s son Sebastian took over the estate due to his father’s illness.  Sebastian’s son Dr. Manfred Prum took the helm in 1969 and he passed the role to his daughter, Dr. Katharina Prum, in 2007.

The JJ Prum estate is one of the most highly respected of the region.  Many aspects of their production contribute to the complexity and ageability of their distinctive wines.  Their 33.5 acres of vineyards are composed of 70% ungrafted vines benefitting from phylloxera’s inability to survive in slate soil.  They specifically maintain old vines that produce low, concentrated yields, and they practice rigorous berry selection.  The wines are produced with minimal intervention and fermented with naturally present yeasts under reductive conditions (in a low-oxygen environment).  They rarely produce completely dry wines and only at special request.  Their practices results in wines that benefit greatly from cellar aging to allow the wine to slowly absorb and interact with the minute amounts of oxygen that cork allows into a bottle.  Even the Kabinett level, wines benefit from about 5 years of cellaring to fully develop their fruit and floral aromas, according to Dr. Manfred Prum.  At present, the family prefers their own wines no younger than the 2008 vintage.  Their suggested ideal wine and food pairing is a bottle-aged Auslese with roast venison or wild boar. But we’d suggest that Mosel Riesling wines not only pair very well with almost all North European based cuisine, but also are the ideal wines alongside a broad array of Asian, Caribbean, and Mexican foods.

The JJ Prum estate is known for four benchmark sites that have been under vine for about two millennia.  Their premier vineyard site is Wehlen Sonnenuhr, the VDP-classified Erste Lage (First Growth) vineyard.  The vineyard is extremely steep at 35 degrees, faces south-west and is composed entirely of Devonian blue slate.  It is known for producing wine of freshness, structure, focus and lively minerality.  From these vineyards, JJ Prum produces its top wines which achieve notable depth and which age with profound grace.

Zeltinger Sonnenuhr is the northern-most site for JJ Prum and is considered the best vineyard near the twin villages of Zeltingen and Rachtig.  It has slightly less topsoil than the bordering Wehlener Sonnenuhr vineyard and produces lower yields with less acidity.  JJ Prum’s vines are between 60-70 years old and the resultant wines are marked by their complex mineral notes of rocks and smoke.

The Graach Himmelreich vineyard is planted along the right bank of the Mosel on a slate mountain facing south-west.  The soil is a mix of clay and slate.  Wines from the area are noted for their racy acidity and strong minerality.  The Bernkasteler Badstube vineyards are in the greater region around the village of Bernkastel.  The slopes are west-facing and at a more shallow angle than other sites.  The wines are floral and delicate.

The JJ Prum 2013 Vintage

From our importer: “As you may have heard, the 2013 vintage was a bear in Germany. The yields were so low that they were economically unsustainable, barely exceeding 20hL/hn for Prum, and were all very high acid of Auslese quality or greater. Not only was there no Kabinett, there wasn’t even any Spatlese! That said, these wines are incredible, and will live in cellars for generations.

“As you can imagine, production was miniscule, so these are very limited (as is evidenced by the 750s all being in six-packs for the first time). Suffice to say that the total amount of this release is less than you would usually see of just a single SKU in many vintages!”

JJ Prum 2013 Vintage Releases – Arriving November 2014

Joh. Jos. Prum Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Auslese 2013 ($49.95) $39 special, 12 bottles available

Joh. Jos. Prum Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese 2013 ($51.95) $41.90 special, 12 bottles available

Joh. Jos. Prum Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel 2013 ($119.95) $89 special, 12 bottles available
Joh. Jos. Prum Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel 2013 375ML ($59.95) $49 special, 12 half-bottles available

Joh. Jos. Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 2013 ($59.95) $49 special, 12 bottles available
Joh. Jos. Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 2013 1.5L ($149.95) $119 special, 6 magnums available
Joh. Jos. Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 2013 375ML ($39.95) $29 special, 12 half-bottles available

Joh. Jos. Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel 2013 ($119.95) $99 special, 6 bottles available
Joh. Jos. Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel 2013 375ML ($69.95) $59 special, 12 half-bottles available

Joh. Jos. Prum Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 2013 ($51.95) $41.90 special, 12 bottles available

JJ Prum Library Releases – Cellared at the Winery – Arriving November 2014

Joh. Jos. Prum Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Spatlese 2007 ($41.95) $33 special, 12 bottles available
Wine Advocate 92 points “Bearing a strong family resemblance to the corresponding Kabinett, the Prum 2007 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Spatlese is redolent of cherry, pear, lime, and mint; is satiny yet refreshing; palate-saturating yet almost weightless; and finishes with infectious fruit intensity, pungently zesty citricity, and mysterious peaty, saline, savory, faintly animal nuances. Like the other Spatlese bottlings in this collection, this should perform admirably for at least a quarter century.”

Joh. Jos. Prum Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Auslese 2007 ($59.95) $49 special, 6 bottles available
Wine Advocate 94 points “Yeasty, fermentative notes to some extent shroud the true aromas of the Prums’ 2007 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Auslese, which with patience reveals high-toned herbal essences, fresh lime, and gardenia. In the mouth this is intensely saline and lime-fruited, making for a refreshing and enervating character one seldom finds at Auslese level, and that offers dynamic counterpoint to the wine’s wafting floral notes and its rich flavors of cherry preserve and honey. As Manfred Prum is the first to point out, this Auslese is more than a little Saar-like. It also finishes straight and penetrating as an arrow, with suggestions of peat, salt, and wet stone adding a fascinating mineral dimension.” WA
Wine Spectator 94 points “Gorgeous aromas and flavors of tropical fruit salad stay vivid and etched across the finish thanks to the vibrant structure. Ethereal yet intense, with a snappy finish that makes you want more. Drink now through 2035.”

J
oh. Jos. Prum Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spatlese 2008 ($44.95) $38 special, 12 bottles available
Wine Advocate 92 points “The Prums’ 2008 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spatlese is less obviously rich but even more remarkably delicate than the corresponding Zeltinger Sonnenuhr. Here too, we have creaminess of texture allied to refreshing brightness. Iris, buddleia, apple, and pineapple are tinged with enticing salinity, and one is drawn back infectiously for the next sip, as this wine’s intrigue and understated charm work their magic. Over the next three decades, I predict that this will remain the most intimate and delicate of the vintage’s Prum Spatlesen.” WA
Stephen Tanzer 91 points “($44) Apricot pit, lime zest and clove on the nose. The delicate nectarine fruit and creamy texture are held aloft by nutmeg and mineral salts. Finishes bright, lively and satisfying, with a spicy character provided by the slate.”ST

Joh. Jos. Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese 2007 ($59.95) $41.90 special, 12 bottles available
Wine Advocate 93 points “The Prum 2007 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spatlese is intriguingly- as well as gorgeously-scented with peony, narcissus, heliotrope, mint, and fresh apple. Creamy and buoyant on the palate, it caresses and seduces with suggestions of lemon chiffon and vanilla flan, but then leaves a surprisingly adamant, stony, subtly zesty finish as if to put the taster on notice that there is a lot more here than meets the palate at such a youthful juncture.” WA
Wine Spectator 93 points “Floral, peach, lime and herb aromas and flavors really sing in this elegant, silky Riesling. Beautifully integrated with the bright structure, showing intensity and length in a seamless, effortless manner. Mouthwatering finish. Drink now through 2035.” WS

Joh. Jos. Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese 2008 ($49.95) $41.90 special, 12 bottles available
Wine Advocate 93+ points “The Prum 2008 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spatlese – as with the corresponding Kabinett – is aromatically more marked by the residues of fermentation than are its immediate siblings. Hints of mango, quince, and musk added to the more predictable apple, vanilla, and liquid floral perfume and lend this an exotic touch, while its mineral side is dominated by striking salinity that enhances the savory stimulation of a long finish as well as offering a fascinating foil to the wine’s creaminess of texture and sheer ripeness. And while the nose needs to clear up here, the palate displays a remarkable sense of clarity to a wealth of flowers and spices. The wine seems to coat the palate while hovering above it, to seduce without touching. This should put on quite a show over the next 30 or more years.” WA

Joh. Jos. Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 2003 ($69.95) $51.90 special, 6 bottles available      
Wine Spectator 94 points: “Stunning. Very aromatic and expressive, offering rose, apricot, lime and mineral notes allied to a clear, gossamer frame. Well-balanced, though somewhat soft in structure. Forward today, the finish should pick up more intensity with age. Best from 2008 through 2028.”

Joh. Jos. Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 2004 ($69.95) $51.90 special, 6 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 92 points “($60) Fine bouquet of ripe apple, vanilla and sweet herbs. The palate is rich, with a salty, resinous character complementing the undeniably sweet apricot fruit. Unctuous yet lively auslese with a long, complex finish. Needs time.”

Joh. Jos. Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 2007 ($69.95) $56 special, 6 bottles available
Wine Advocate 94 points “Quince preserves, baked apple, lily, gardenia, and hints of caramel and vanilla mark the nose of the Prum 2007 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese. With richness yet delicacy and lift it saturates the palate with rich fruit, liquid flowers, vanilla cream, and savory, saline, shrimp shell reduction-like mineral essences. This intense, pure, subtly and truly nobly botrytized Auslese has umami with a capital “U”. WA
Wine Spectator 94 points “Pungent aromas of slate and flowers give way to peach and lime in this unevolved Riesling. The texture is supersilky, with great harmony among all the elements. Terrific length. Needs time. Best from 2014 through 2040.” WS

Joh. Jos. Prum Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese 2007 ($44.95) $36 special, 12 bottles available
Wine Advocate 93 points “There could scarcely be a more dramatic contrast than that between the Prums’ 2007 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese and their Bernkasteler Badstube Spatlese. Whereas the latter-for all of its delicacy-is energetic, bright, and invigorating, this Zeltinger is a soothing, creamy essence of liquid flowers, accompanied by orchard fruit essences, vanilla, malt, and nut oils. Naturally-this being archetypal Mosel-there is something here too that one is practically compelled to describe as “stone”. If this wine doesn’t put you in a dream state, then you must suffer from genuine agitation!”

Stock List – JJ Prum Wines Available Now

Joh. Jos. Prum Bernkasteler Riesling Kabinett 2011 ($21.95) $17 special, 3+ cases available

Joh. Jos. Prum Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Kabinett 2012 ($27.95) $19 special, 3+ cases available
Stephen Tanzer 89 points, Mosel Fine Wines 88 points “This delivers a simple yet attractive nose of citrus, white peach and smoke, in which one notices a great touch of herbs and ground spices. The finish is balanced yet powerful. The sweetness is nicely framed by the structure of the wine. Now-2022.” MFW

Joh. Jos. Prum Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Spatlese 2011 ($39.95) $26 special, 7 bottles available
Wine Advocate 91 points “The Prum 2011 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Spatlese is scented and flavored with spearmint- and crushed stone-infused; musk-, lily- and peony-wreathed apple, honeydew melon, and blueberry, with an invigoratingly tart chew of berry skin lending counterpoint to the wine’s luscious, silky texture and its consequently succulently soothing aspects, including a seductive sense of liquid floral perfume. While this hasn’t the transparency or interactivity that characterized the corresponding Kabinett, it largely makes up for this with its own distinct virtues. Look for three decades of delight.”

Joh. Jos. Prum Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Spatlese 2012 ($34.95) $24 special, 3+ cases available
Stephen Tanzer 91 points “($39) Easygoing aromas of cling peach, sweet lime and wild herbs. The rich depth of velvety passion fruit is animated by an elegant acid backbone that gives the wine poise. Ends on a delicately spicy note.”

Joh. Jos. Prum Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Auslese 2012 ($44.95) $31.90 special, 33 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 91 points “($49) Pale golden yellow. Rich, musky aromas of yellow plum and sweet herbs. Possesses good depth of rich tropical fruit, but is more noteworthy for its velvety texture and supple, pleasing style. Finishes with salty minerality and excellent persistence.”

Joh. Jos. Prum Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett 2008 ($31.95) $24 special, 33 bottles available
Wine Advocate 91 points “The Prum 2008 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett smells of green tea, fresh apple, honeysuckle, and acacia; offers boundless refreshment and gravity-defying buoyancy with pungent invigoration of citrus peel and apple skin; and finishes with its pure fruit and effusive, persistent inner-mouth floral perfume allied to saline, stony, smoke, iodine-like and remarkably savory manifestations of things mineral. It will reward 20-25 years of cellaring for the few who put that claim to the test–or who are already convinced by their past experience with Prum Rieslings.”

Joh. Jos. Prum Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett 2012 ($29.95) $21.90 special, 3+ cases available
Mosel Fine Wines 92 points “This offers a gorgeous nose of lemon, peach, white orchard fruits and some herbs. The wine is deliciously well balanced on the palate and delivers a stunningly long and well-balanced finish. 2019-2032.”

Joh. Jos. Prum Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spatlese 2011 ($41.95) $29 special, 3 bottles available
Wine Advocate 91 points “Site-typical scents and bursting juiciness of mint-tinged grapefruit, pineapple, and apple inform the Prum 2011 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spatlese A.P. #12, albeit with a bit of a yeasty, cheesy veil that needs to blow off. A delightful inner-mouth floral perfume–akin to honeysuckle–along with a slick of honey add decadent richness to the palate. Hints of apple pip piquancy and chew of tart apple skin along with crushed stone accents lend counterpoint to the succulently-sustained finish. It seems that for whatever reason–the Prums confess to having no clue–their Graachers are behind their other wines in evolution. Look for-the usual- quarter-century or more of admirable service.”

Joh. Jos. Prum Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spatlese 2012 ($37.95) $27 special, 36 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 91 points “($42) Apricot pit, lime zest and clove on the nose. The delicate nectarine fruit and creamy texture is held aloft by nutmeg and mineral salts. An element of slate provides spice on the enticing finish of this bright, lively wine.”

Joh. Jos. Prum Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel 2011 375ML ($49.95) $41.90 special, 12 half-bottles available
Wine Advocate 92 points “Candied, spiced apple and overripe Persian melon dominate the Prum 2011 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese gold capsule, with honeyed impingement both aromatically and on the palate reinforcing the sense of relative opacity and rounded richness that the other Graachers in this year’s collection displayed. Here the sense of delicacy is nearly weightless; intriguing and enticing notes of liquid peony and lily enter the picture mid-palate after the wine takes on air; and for all of the botrytization in effect, there is a welcome retention of primary juiciness, spurring a lusciously long finish. Look for four decades or more of luxuriant satisfaction.”

Joh. Jos. Prum Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel 2012 ($99.95) $79 special, 11 bottles available
Joh. Jos. Prum Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel 2012 375ML ($59.95) $39 special, 17 half-bottles available
Mosel Fine Wines 93 points “This spiced apple and overripe Persian melon dominate the Prum 2011 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese gold capsule, with honeyed impingement both aromatically and on the palate reinforcing the sense of relative opacity and rounded richness that the other Graachers in this year’s collection displayed. Here the sense of delicacy is nearly weightless; intriguing and enticing notes of liquid peony and lily enter the picture mid-palate after the wine takes on air; and for all of the botrytization in effect, there is a welcome retention of primary juiciness, spurring a lusciously long finish. Look for four decades or more of luxuriant satisfaction.”

Joh. Jos. Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese 2012 375ML ($29.95) $19 special, 17 half-bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 91(+?) points “Crisp aromas of passion fruit, nut oils and cinnamon. Rich, sleek and invigorating, but with creamy tropical fruit flavors remaining light and ethereal. Well-balanced, elegant and impeccably long. This does not have the depth of the auction wine, but at present more it offers greater drinkability.”

Joh. Jos. Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 2012 ($49.95) $39 special, 3 bottles available
Joh. Jos. Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 2012 1.5L ($149.95) $89 special, 12 magnums available
Joh. Jos. Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 2012 375ML ($29.95) $21.90 special, 27 half-bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 92 points “Pale golden yellow. Candied papaya, persimmon, clove and a vague hint of smoky botrytis on the nose. Luscious, creamy peach nectar flavor is nicely framed and accented by a splash of salty minerality. Richer and denser than the spätlese, showing excellent length, but not necessarily much better.”

Joh. Jos. Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel 2007 ($149.95) $119 special, 4 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 96 points “Golden yellow. Christmas fruitcake with cherry, white raisin and honeyed botrytis on the nose. Glossy, creamy and rich on the palate, with fine slate, brown spice and floral elements woven into a braid of flavors. The botrytis component adds complexity on the complex, mineral-driven finish. What an auslese!”

Joh. Jos. Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel 2011 375ML ($59.95) $46 special, 8 half-bottles available
Wine Advocate 95 points “A delightful hint of salted caramel creeps into the nose and onto the palate of Prum’s 2011 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese gold capsule, which when combined with apple jelly, honey and nougat not to mention a creamy and almost taffy-like texture, makes for a decidedly confectionary aura. Sweet liquid essences of lily, musky peony and gardenia as well as a faint oiliness and high glycerol enhance the luxuriantly seductive effect of this long-lingering performance, yet there remains a critical modicum of fresh apple and melon juiciness (if less efficacious than that of the corresponding Bernkasteler) to complement the sense of levity in this elixir’s finish and to render the next sip virtually irresistible.”

Joh. Jos. Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel 2012 1.5L ($249.95) $179 special, 6 magnums available
Joh. Jos. Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel 2012 375ML ($69.95) $44 special, 18 half-bottles available
Mosel Fine Wines 93 points “This offers a deliciously rich and soft feel of flowers, herbs and ripe fruits, in which a hint of apricot, mango and also honey come through on the palate and in the finish. The wine is quite rich and smooth and leaves an airy and spicy feel in the long aftertaste. It lives from the fascinating botrytis complexity and it will be fascinating to see how it will develop in the coming decades. 2022-2042.”
Stephen Tanzer 93 points “Rich golden yellow. Heady aromas of strawberry and nut oils, with only a gentle hint of honeyed botrytis. White peach fruit essences and mineral salts animate the creamily rich yet delicate palate. More concentrated than the other ausleses and showing a distinctly aristocratic personality. One of the most impressive ausleses of the vintage.”

Joh. Jos. Prum Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 2012 ($47.95) $33 special, 25 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 92 points “($51) Pale golden yellow. Lively aromas of peach pit, honeysuckle and candied lemon. Bright and spicy, with sweet, plush papaya fruit showing a velvety texture and a note of creaminess. Herbal essences heighten the pleasing finish. Not a show reserve, but a lovely auslese.”

Joh. Jos. Prum Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel 2012 ($99.95) $69 special, 11 bottles available
Mosel Fine Wines 92 points “Made exclusively from the parcel forming the original Sonnenuhr, this delivers a great fresh nose of bergamot, quince and mango which turn into more botrytized and homeyed flavors of exotic fruits including passion fruit and pineapple on the palate. The zesty and fruity finish makes one magically go for another sip. This is gorgeously made. 2022-2042.”

Who wouldn’t want to drink Barbaresco from the first vineyard to ever make the wine? Though Cantina Del Pino has only been producing since 1997, the Vacca family, and their vineyard, have been a part of Italian winemaking for over 100 years. Domizio Cavazzo established the vineyard in 1894, becoming one of the first winemakers to produce Nebbiolo under the name Barbaresco. An advocate for Langhe farmers, Cavazzo’s vineyard was well known, recognizable by the large Mediterranean pine tree he planted on the day his first son was born. In 1912, the Vaccas took over the estate and have been there four generations, becoming known for world class wines from their historic vineyard. Today, the estate is managed by the fourth generation winemaker Renato Vacca, although his parents, aunts, uncles and friends all help with production.  Until 1997, their grapes were entirely sold to the Produttori del Barbaresco cooperative, where Renatto’s better known cousin, Aldo Vacca, manages the estate.  Renatto Vacca now produces all of Cantina del Pino’s wine,  his methods of minimalist intervention key to producing wines that reflect the terroir.

All of the family vineyards are within the Barbaresco appellation.  They range in age between 35 to 70 years old and average 40 years old.  The oldest vines were planted by Renato Vacca’s great-grandfather.  Their Ovello Vineyard site, their most famous site, is almost 1,000 feet in altitude with limestone and sandy soil.  The winemaker describes the resulting wine as elegant with balanced acidity.  The Albesani Vineyard, to the North-East in Neive, produces richer wine due to its warmer sun exposure and denser clay soil.  Expect more intense fruit and floral flavors that are best with a longer cellaring.  The family’s Barbaresco DOCG wine is sourced from Starderi and Gallina in addition to Ovello and Albesani.  It is elegant and ageable with a hint of fine tobacco.  The grapes and wines are temperature controlled from maceration through the end of bottle aging and are unfined and unfiltered.  The several Barbaresco DOCG wines undergo fermentation in stainless steel during which the grapes are macerated for 20-30 days.  These wines see two years of wood aging and one or two years of bottle aging, with the reserva wines see the longer time in bottle.

“Humble, down-to-earth, yet intensely driven, Renato Vacca is making some of the most exciting wines in the region. Vacca’s holdings are concentrated in and around the Ovello vineyard, a site long noted for its combination of cooler microclimate and poor soils, which give structured, age-worthy Barbarescos. Not only were the wines from Cantina del Pino among the standouts of my tastings, they also happen to be among the best values in Barbaresco. In short, I can’t say enough good things about the wines of Renato Vacca. Readers owe it to themselves to check out this up-and-coming producer.” Antonio Galloni – Robert Parker’s – The Wine Advocate

Arriving Next Week

Cantina del Pino Barbaresco 2010  ($41.95) $33 special 12+ bottles available

Stock List – Cantina del Pino – Available Now

Cantina del Pino Barbaresco Ovello 2008 ($59.95) $49 special 12+ bottles available
Antonio Galloni 94 points “Layers of sweet, Pinot-like fruit emerge effortlessly from the 2008 Barbaresco Ovello. Incredibly refined from the very first taste, the Ovello impresses for its overall balance and sense of harmony. Expressive floral notes reappear on the finish in a Barbaresco that is unusually refined for this site, where the wines are typically a bit more taut.”

Cantina del Pino Barbaresco Albesano 2008 ($59.95) $49 special 12+ bottles available
Antonio Galloni 94+ points “Cantina del Pino’s 2008 Barbaresco Albesani shows the heights of pure elegance Nebbiolo is capable of. An exotic array of plums, black cherries, menthol and violets come to life as the Albesani shows off its pedigree. Silky, refined and polished, the Albesani is simply magnificent from the very first taste. The deep, resonant finish stayed with me for hours. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2028.”

Cantina del Pino Barbaresco Albesani 2009 ($59.95) $49 special 12+ bottles available
Wine Spectator 93 points “The picture of harmony, this red exudes cherry and floral aromas, with plenty of berry, tobacco and balsamic flavors. Balanced and firm, with a lingering aftertaste of spice and mineral. Accessible now, yet will improve. Best from 2014 through 2025”

Cantina del Pino Barbaresco 2008 ($39.95) $33 special 12+ bottles available
Wine Advocate 92 points  “The 2008 Barbaresco comes across as quite elegant and Burgundian in this vintage. Sweet dark cherries, spices, mint and crushed flowers are some of the notes that take shape in the glass in this, bright, focused Barbaresco. The 2008 possesses terrific energy and polish from start to finish. This is a beautifully balanced wine from Cantina del Pino. The 2008 was made 50% from an east facing parcel of Ovello in the Morassino district. The other 50% of the fruit was sourced from the west-facing part of Ovello, plus Vacca’s smaller holdings in Starderi, Gallina and Albesani. How’s that for a superb quartet of vineyards? Anticipated maturity: 2016-2028.”

Cantina del Pino Barbaresco 2009 ($39.95) $33 special 12+ bottles available
Antonio Galloni 91 points “The 2009 Barbaresco wraps around the palate with soft, caressing fruit. This juicy, up-front Barbaresco is an excellent choice for drinking over the next few years. Renato Vacca has succeeded in giving his Barbaresco considerable finesse without losing the essential Nebbiolo tannins and overall structure. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. Proprietor Renato Vacca continues to show he has the magic touch. I would be thrilled to drink any of these magnificent wines. Vacca has decided to release his 2009 single-vineyard Barbareschi before the 2008s, as he feels those wines need another year in bottle. I hope readers take the time to check out these fabulous wines. Along with Sottimano, Gaja, Pelissero and a handful of others, Cantina del Pino is one of the very few estates in Barbaresco where every single wine is fabulous.” 

The Bandol wine region of France, located near the coast east of Marseille and Cassis, is one of Provence’s most famous wine regions and one of its oldest, with winemaking in Bandol tracing back as far as the Romans. With the AOC created in 1941, the title covers red, white and rose wines from roughly 3830 acres of vineyards surrounding the Mediterranean coastal town of Bandol. Those soils and the warm, coastal climate are ideally suited for the late ripening Mourvèdre grape, the major varietal of the region. Ample sun and scarce rain gives the late-maturing Mourvèdre the time it needs to ripen, these sun baked soils providing further complexity.  With a high percentage of the spicy, powerful Mourvèdre grape, Bandol produces very characterful wines of great power and depth, possessing a complexity and nuance of flavor shared by few other appellations. The resulting reds are dark and rich, characterized by cherry and blackberry flavors, an earthy (sometimes herby) flavor and plenty of pepper in its youth.

The esteemed Domaine Tempier was founded from century-old vineyard sites in 1834.  Leonie Tempier built the winey, cellar and cement fermentation tanks in 1880.  Lucie, Leonie’s great-granddaughter, and her husband Lucien Peyraud took over the Domaine in 1940 shortly after their marriage.  They replanted the estate with higher quality varietals, Mourvèdre, Grenache and Cinsault.  Originally, the area was planted mostly with Mourvèdre.  After phylloxera devastated the area, vineyards were replanted to produce cheap bulk wine.  The couple saw the potential in the area, especially after tasting some pre-phylloxera estate wines.  Lucien worked with the I.N.A.O. (Institut National des Appellations d’Origines) to establish the Bandol AOC and to encourage the production of Mourvèdre.  Their sons Jean-Marie and Francois took over the estate and were the first to bottle the single vineyards to showcase their unique characteristics (La Tourtine, La Migoua and Cabassaou).  Daniel Ravier took over as winemaker in 2000.

Today, the Peyraud family farms 38 hectares on the steep and sunny slopes of Bandol.  The soils mostly consist of chalk and clay.  The Cabassaou is a sheltered parcel in the lower part of La Tourtine vineyard.  The wine is 95% Mourvèdre with rich, dense tannins and the longest aging potential.  The Cuvee CLassique is usually around 70-75% Mourvèdre with some Grenache, Cinsault and up to 2% Carignan.  It can cellar for 15 years or more.  The rose is made from a Mourvèdre-based blend.  It is an exciting style, with rich floral, berry and spicy notes.  It is truly an ageworthy rose, worth cellaring if only until the fall.

Domaine Tempier Wines Available Now

Domaine Tempier Bandol Rose 2013 ($49.95) $41.90 special, 3+ cases available
Domaine Tempier Bandol Rose 2013 1.5L ($119.95) $89 special, 10 magnums available
Domaine Tempier Bandol Rose 2013 375ML ($29.95) $24 special, 23 half-bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 92 points (50% mourvedre, 28% grenache, 20% cinsault and 2% carignan): “Bright orange-pink. Heady redcurrant, cherry pit, peach and floral scents are complicated by a bright mineral nuance and pick up a hint of ginger with aeration. Stony and penetrating on entry, then weightier in the mid-palate, offering intense red berry and bitter peach skin flavors and a touch of blood orange. Gains sweetness on the finish, which clings with excellent tenacity and resonating minerality.” JR

Domaine Tempier Bandol Rouge 2009 ($41.95) $33 special, 3+ cases available
Wine Spectator 91 points “This is focused on its graphite and slate flavors, with crisp accents of dried raspberry and cherry in the background. Cream and cocoa powder notes linger on the refined finish, supported by medium-grained tannins. Drink now through 2018.” WS

Domaine Tempier Bandol Rouge 2010 ($39.95) $29 special, 3+ cases available
Wine Spectator 90 points “Notes of sanguine and rosemary line the core of taut cherry preserves and red currant paste. A singed alder hint flitters through the finish, showing good persistence. Mourvèdre, Grenache, Cinsault and Carignan. Drink now through 2020.” WS

Domaine Tempier Cuvee Cabassaou Bandol Rouge 2010 ($99.95) $79 special, 5 bottles available
Wine Spectator 93 points “The pure, solid core of kirsch and blackberry pâte de fruit is studded with rosemary, bitter plum, ganache and anise notes. This slowly yields to extra juniper, iron and sanguine accents that play out through the long, layered finish. This needs time to unwind fully. Mourvèdre, Syrah and Cinsault. Best from 2017 through 2020.”