Vinopolpick Monday Bonus 9-28-20

Scavino is one of the truly great estates in Barolo, a region with no shortage of famous names. Despite a recent trend towards a more traditional approach, the wines still skew modernist. Rich and powerful in their youth, their true greatness only reveals itself after time in the cellar -something that can’t be said about all of Scavino’s modernist peers. Complex and nuanced upon release, the wines are built to age.  

With access to some of Barolo’s most prized vineyards, and a winemaking team that embraces the best of both modern and traditional techniques, the wines are arguably the smartest buys in Barolo today. But don’t take our word for it, Bruce Sanderson of the Wine Spectator recently offered this praise for Scavino’s remarkable wines.

“Paolo Scavino is once again one of the top producers in Barolo. At one point, Scavino was considered one of the preeminent producers of modernist Barolo, favoring barriques, exceptionally short macerations and a style that emphasized winemaking over terroir.  These days, though, they’ve shed their overtly modernist ways, moving their style towards a more traditional approach.

While you aren’t going to confuse them with Mascarello or Burlotto, the current incarnation of Scavino seems to combine some of the best parts of modernism (i.e., approachable wines with rich fruit and sensual textures) with a more traditional sensibility in regards to terroir and oak flavors.  2016 was an epic year in Barolo and Scavino made some of the best wines we’ve tasted from the house.

The Paolo Scavino estate was founded in Castiglione Falletto in 1921. Enrico Scavino, the current proprietor, joined his father in 1951, and has since worked tirelessly, increasing the vineyard holdings to 74 acres. His daughters Enrica and Elisa (pictured with Enrico), who focus on sales and marketing and production, respectively, represent the 4th generation in the family business.

Enrico Scavino was one of the “Barolo Boys” of the 1980s and ’90s; the group brought international attention to Piedmont by making and promoting a more modern style of Barolo. Scavino’s first single-vineyard bottling, the Barolo Bric dël Fiasc, debuted with the 1978 vintage, and experimentation and refinement continue to this day. The wines have tipped a bit back toward the traditional side in recent years, using various barrel sizes and experimenting with vinification in wood, techniques that I find emphasize Nebbiolo’s pure fruit. “We don’t make great Nebbiolo because we use barriques or large casks,” explains Enrica. “We try to be neutral with the oak to let the grape express itself.”

The Barolo is a blend of seven parcels in Castiglione Falletto, Barolo and Seralunga d’Alba. Barolo Carobric is a contraction of its three vineyard sources: Cannubi, Rocche di Castiglione and Bric dël Fiasc. Prapò and Ravera are the newest MGAs to the range, debuting with the 2015 vintage. Don’t miss the Barolo Cannubi in the Hot Wines section of this issue.”—Bruce Sanderson, Wine Spectator

In Stock Now:

Paolo Scavino Barbera d’Alba, Piedmont 2016 750ML ($27.95) $21.90 special
James Suckling 91 points “Plenty of berry and spice with hints of tiles. Medium to full body, firm and velvety tannins and a flavorful finish. Drink now.”
Wine Spectator 90 points “A rich, lush style, displaying black cherry, blackberry and subtle chocolate flavors. Dense yet succulent, with a mouthwatering finish. Drink now through 2020. 916 cases made.”

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Paolo Scavino Bricco Ambrogio, Barolo DOCG 2015 750ML ($69.95) $59 special, 3 bottles in stock now
Wine Spectator 94 points “An elegant style, boasting strawberry, cherry, currant and spice flavors, supported by vibrant acidity and refined tannins. Turns chewy on the finish, where eucalyptus and tar notes chime in. Best from 2022 through 2042.—B.S.”
Monica Larner – Wine Advocate 93 points “The 2015 Barolo Bricco Ambrogio is Scavino’s cru from this northeastern-most vineyard in the Barolo appellation, in the village of Roddi, and comprises seven hectares of mostly Nebbiolo but also some Dolcetto and Barbera. These vines with their southeastern exposure are not protected from the elements very well, allowing for more diurnal temperature shifts. Therefore, this site always produces much fresher fruit flavors. Indeed, you get noticeably crunchy, tonic fruit here along with a more detailed aromatic portrait. The wine is more precise compared to Monvigliero, for example, which offers more dense fruit, while Bricco Ambrogio is more delicate in the mouth. These soils are gray marlstone, with some yellow veins of clay in there and some sand, whereas Monvigliero soils are far whiter in nature. A fresh Barolo like this would pair well with any fatty sausage.”
Antonio Galloni 92 points “The 2015 Barolo Bricco Ambrogio is terrific. Bold, fruity and forward, the 2015 offers tons of immediacy, not to mention impeccable overall balance. Sweet red cherry, hard candy, spice, mint, licorice and tobacco infuse the 2015 with terrific nuance to match its radiant, supple personality. This inviting, silky Barolo has plenty to offer, including tons of immediacy.”
Importer note “The only single cru from the Roddi village dedicated to Nebbiolo for Barolo production. Made for the first time in 2002 and almost a monopole. A geeky Barolo cru to show and explore. Perfumed, generous in its expression and soft texture.”

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Paolo Scavino Bricco Ambrogio, Barolo DOCG 2016 750ML ($69.95) $59 special, 5 bottles in stock now
Antonio Galloni 94 points “The 2016 Barolo Bricco Ambrogio is very pretty in 2016. Medium in body and supple, the Bricco Ambrogio captures all of the personality of the year in a mid-weight style that makes it easy to drink and enjoy young. The balance of fruit, acid and structure is just superb here. Pretty floral and spice overtones add nuance. Bricco Ambrogio is always the most accessible of the Scavino cru Barolos. The 2016 is the finest wine from this site yet.”
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 94 points “From the comune or village of Roddi, the Paolo Scavino 2016 Barolo Bricco Ambrogio offers an open-knit and accessible personality. The bouquet of this wine is very distinctive, offering some cedar, spice and toasted hazelnut that you don’t get in the other Baroli in the collection from the Scavino family. Those nutty aromas cede to dark fruit, plum, spice and grilled herb. The wine is beautifully put together, showing the classic balance and energy of the vintage.”
Wine Spectator 94 points “This is velvety and inviting, the open texture setting the stage for black cherry, plum and iron flavors. Spice and tobacco elements chime in as this cruises to a long, sumptuous finish. Shows fine harmony and should be approachable earlier than some peers. Best from 2022 through 2038.”


Paolo Scavino Bric del Fiasc, Barolo DOCG 2015 750ML ($99.95) $89 special, 4 bottles in stock now
Monica Larner – Wine Advocate 95+ points “From the Scavino family’s home-turf vineyard, the 2015 Barolo Bric dël Fiasc (with fruit from Castiglione Falletto) delivers structure, firmness and power. This is a classic interpretation of a historic cru, and the wine offers linear, crisp lines. Fruit from this site was fermented separately for the first time to make this wine in 1978. The family had long recognized the consistently superior quality of the fruit from this location, and they saw its special potential. Enrico Scavino told me about the rush of adrenaline and pride that washed over him when he first tasted this wine with his peers Gaja and Conterno during those Golden Years of the past and saw the enthusiasm their eyes. This is the go-to Barolo if you want to taste classic Scavino.”
Antonio Galloni 95 points “The 2015 Barolo Bric del Fiasc is dark and imposing on the palate, yet not quite as forbidding as it can be. A Barolo of size and heft, the 2015 has a lot to say, but it won’t be ready to drink anytime soon. Black cherry, smoke, leather, iron, licorice, menthol and graphite notes infuse the 2015 with layers of nuance to complement its brooding, sepia-toned personality nicely. The 2015 is a beguiling Barolo, but it needs cellaring.”
Wine Spectator 95 points “The sweetness from ripe plum and cherry fruit offsets the broad swath of tannins. Energetic and focused, with leather, soy, iron and tobacco accents supporting the fruit. Feels balanced, but needs time for all the elements to integrate. Better than previously reviewed. Best from 2023 through 2045. —B.S.”
Importer note “Produced from the best exposure at the top of the Fiasco Cru, this wine was first bottled as a single vineyard in 1978. Owned and farmed by the Scavino family since 1921, this vineyard demonstrates the classic Castiglion Falletto combination of elegance and power, with a density of fruit and vibrant, refined tannins.”


Paolo Scavino Carobric, Barolo DOCG 2015 750ML ($79.95) $69 special, 3 bottles in stock now
Antonio Galloni 94 points “Although often slow out of the gate, the 2015 Barolo Carobric is absolutely gorgeous and expressive today. Powerful and dense in its first impression, the 2015 also has a good bit of underlying structure that gives energy and real sense of proportion. I would prefer to give the 2015 a few years in bottle to shed some of its baby fat. There is clearly quite a bit of potential here. Dried flowers, mint, rose petal, spice and dark red/blackish fruit all open up with time in the glass. The 2015 has a bright future. I won’t be surprised if it turns out even better than this note suggests”
Monica Larner – Wine Advocate 94 points “The 2018 vintage will be the last edition made of this wine. The Scavino family lost its lease in Cannubi, and the estate wine portfolio is being redrawn as a result. The 2015 Barolo Carobric remains a blend of fruit from Rocche di Castiglione (60%), Cannubi (20%) and Bric dël Fiasc (20%). That blend has been carefully contemplated, and the absence of the Cannubi changes the formula too drastically. Cannubi adds richness and flavor to the blend, while Rocche di Castiglione with its sandy soils adds delicate mineral and light fruit nuances. Bric dël Fiasc offers both power and elegance and is the proverbial glue that keeps harmony between the two sides. This wine was first produced in 1996, and the end of an important chapter in the Scavino family legacy is upon us.”
Importer note “A three vineyard super blend of primarily Rocche di Castiglione with smaller amounts of Fiasco and Cannubi.”


Paolo Scavino Monvigliero, Barolo DOCG 2015 750ML ($79.95) $69 special, 5 bottles in stock now
Wine Spectator 94 points “A supple, perfumed red, with a smoky Lapsang souchong tea note underly-ing the cherry and currant flavors. Delicate and firm, showing fine balance and a vibrant finish. This is all about elegance and finesse. Best from 2021 through 2042.—B.S”
Monica Larner – Wine Advocate 94 points “The Scavino family has had access to fruit from the Monvigliero cru for almost 20 years. They have farmed a small parcel (under one hectare) since 2000, and the grapes were previously added to their “classico” Barolo blend. In 2006, Monvigliero became its own single-vineyard expression because Enrico Scavino always had a big passion for this site. The 2015 Barolo Monvigliero is a bright and beautiful wine with a strong floral signature of violets and roses that accompanies this wine from start to finish. The wine is very characteristic of Monvigliero in terms of the softness and silky nature of the tannins as well.”
Antonio Galloni 93 points “The 2015 Barolo Monvigliero is undoubtedly a pretty wine, even if it appears to be somewhat of a work in progress. Bright floral notes, spice and sweet red cherry/plum fruit give the Monvigliero considerable immediacy as well as appeal. Even so, my impression is that the best is yet to come for this bottling.”
Importer note “A Grand Cru from Verduno village first produced by Scavino in the 2007 vintage. The Northern most commune in Barolo, this vineyard has a very special microclimate: warm during the day and cold at night thanks to the cooling breezes coming off the Tanaro River. Always elegant and focused with great tension.”

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Paolo Scavino Ravera, Barolo DOCG 2015 750ML ($79.95) $69 special, 9 bottles in stock now
Monica Larner – Wine Advocate 94 points “Here is another rookie in the lineup for Paolo Scavino. The Ravera vineyard was purchased in 2015, at 2.7 hectares and about 360 meters in altitude. It is their highest vineyard and the last to be harvested every year. This east-facing parcel is never too hot, always showing cooler-climate conditions than the others, with fine tannins and a good dose of acidity. The 2015 Barolo Ravera is a very tight and and precise wine, with notes of exotic tea that follow blackberry, dried cherry and licorice. This is a great new addition to the Scavino portfolio at this time of important changes for the winery.”
Importer note “Another debut release, Scavino acquired 3 adjacent parcels totaling 2.69 hectares before the start of the 2015 growing season. A very cool site, these east facing vines planted in loose white marls are the highest amongst all of Scavino’s holdings, reaching 430 meters, and consequently the last of the estate’s crus to be harvested.”


Arriving in October:

Paolo Scavino Cannubi, Barolo DOCG 2016 750ML ($119.95) $99 pre-arrival special
Kerin O’keefe-Wine Enthusiast 99 points “Perfumed berry, fragrant purple flowers, chopped mint and baking spice are just some of the aromas you’ll find on this drop-dead gorgeous wine. Impeccably balanced, structured, and loaded with finesse, it boasts a smooth texture, doling out juicy Marasca cherry, raspberry compote, licorice and white pepper alongside a backbone of polished tannins and fresh acidity. Drink 2024–2036.”
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 97 points “The Paolo Scavino 2016 Barolo Cannubi is another wine that should greatly interest avid collectors. It will not be produced after the 2018 vintage, but this 2016 vintage awards us with first-rate quality and precision, making for a memorable send-off. This expression from Cannubi offers tight and aromatic fruit with wild cherry, rose petal and powdered licorice root. It also shows a slightly dusty or mineral quality with finely nuanced tannins and a tapered or streamlined mouthfeel that adds to its delicate elegance. The effect here is polished with glossy intensity.”
Antonio Galloni 96 points “The 2016 Barolo Cannubi is a striking wine. Deep, rich and beautifully layered, the 2016 has it all. Rose petal, mint, star anise, blood orange and raspberry open up first, followed by a cascade of red fruit and floral notes that literally soar out of the glass. The Cannubi possesses tremendous textural resonance in a style that balances the sensuality of this site with a good deal of structure. It is also one of the wines in this lineup that was aged entirely in cask.”
Wine Spectator 96 points “A bright, elegant red, delivering pure cherry, strawberry and rose aromas and flavors, with a hint of wild herb. Though harmonious and delicate, this has a firm structure underneath, and the finish is long and resonant. The aftertaste echoes with fruit and floral notes, adding spice to the mix. Best from 2022 through 2042. 275 cases made, 100 cases imported.”


Paolo Scavino Rocche dell’Annunziata Riserva, Barolo DOCG 2013 750ML ($219.95) $199 pre-arrival special
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 97 points “The 2013 Barolo Rocche dell’Annunziata Riserva was released in January of 2019, and once again it looks to be a top prize. Licorice and flowers dominate the bouquet, and its beautiful red fruit is generous throughout. This wine has always been a beauty and consistently has had a high price tag to reflect that quality, going back to the first vintages of the 1990s. It has regularly sold for about $200 every year for the last decade. These vines are old, some of them very old (reaching the ripe age of 60 years old in 1990s, when many of them were replanted with carefully selected clones), producing an elegance and concentration that brings intensity and a high standard of aromas. This Barolo without a doubt shows its pedigree and a quality of noble perfumes that demonstrate characteristics of the greatest Nebbiolo vintages, all delivered with excellent concentration. The magic lingers on the palate, right up to the finish.”
James Suckling 95 points “Aromas of white truffles and dried red cherries here with an earthy nuance that makes for a complex and compelling nose. The palate has a deep and dense shape and delivers a wide array of rich cherry and plum flavors. Some handy spice here, too. Drink or hold.”

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