Vinopolpick Mid-Week 5-26-20

The hill of Hermitage is both one of the most famous wine landmarks in the world and also so much more interesting than common lore purports it to be. The story goes that the hill of Hermitage was the home of a knight seeking solace from the horrors of the Crusades upon his return home. He planted the vineyards that would become Hermitage and then built a chapel to pray in and that building, the Chapel of Saint Christopher, is the defining marker of the hillside. The name, Hermitage, takes the name of the hermit’s refuge.

Jaboulet purchased the Chapel of Saint Christopher and the surrounding plot of land in 1919—possibly the choicest part of the whole appellation. This is the core of their blend for La Chapelle, which for many defines what Hermitage can be, though the entire line of wines Jaboulet makes from the AOC (and its neighbor) is exceptional.  These are big, dense wines, with loads of Hermitage character and those effortless Syrah flavors that just don’t quit on extremely long finishes.

The 2017 vintage of Jaboulet’s top wines just arrived and boy are they impressive. Big and rich, they show off the solar qualities of the vintage with surprisingly approachable personalities.  These are wines for both the table tonight and also for your future self, so buy accordingly.


Just Arrived, In Stock Now:

Jaboulet Aine Hermitage La Chapelle, Rhone 2017 750ML ($219.95) $189 special
Wine Advocate 97-99 points “In need of serious air to open up, the 2017 Hermitage La Chapelle became more and more impressive the longer I kept it in the glass. At first it seemed a bit simple, if admirably plummy and rich, but by the time ten minutes had elapsed, it was showing off elegant notes of crushed stone, pencil shavings and cassis, while remaining full-bodied, rich and concentrated. It’s velvety and long on the finish, but something left me wanting a bit more. It’s surely a great La Chapelle, but will it reach that elusive triple-digit score?”
James Suckling 98 points “The icon is in dangerously seductive form. Such pristine dark cherries, blackberries and dark plums, dark chocolate, finely crushed spices and plenty of crushed dark stones on offer. The palate is very intense, very slick and fine tannins deliver an almost playfully soft impression. The oak is super integrated. Like La Maison Bleue, this approachability is an aberration, as it has immense power, concentration and length with such regal and alluring swagger at the finish. But there is so much more to come. Try from 2024, better after 2030.”
Josh Raynolds-Vinous 95-96 points “Brilliant magenta. A highly complex bouquet evokes ripe dark berries, cherry liqueur, incense and potpourri, while olive and exotic spice nuances build in the glass. Displays intense, alluringly sweet black/blue fruit, spicecake and violet pastille flavors that show sharp delineation and are braced by a spine of juicy acidity. Closes extremely long and precise, displaying a smoky, intensifying mineral quality and youthfully gripping tannins that build steadily.”

Jaboulet Aine Domaine de Thalabert Crozes-Hermitage, Rhone 2017 750ML ($39.95) $33 special
Jeb Dunnuck 94-96 points “From a scorcher of a vintage that had tiny yields, the 2017 Crozes Hermitage Domaine De Thalabert offers a deep purple color as well as a classic Thalabert bouquet of black fruits, black olive, iodine, and peppery herbs. It’s a rich, rounded, sumptuous beauty that has plenty of sweet fruit, moderate tannins, and a great finish. It’s not going to match the 2015, but it’s a rocking wine I’d be thrilled to drink.”

 

 

 

2009 was one of those exceptional years where every wine seems to drink two to three tiers above its price point.  The entry level wines drunk beautifully on release, but those who cellared wisely are now starting to really get the full value out of them—the best under $25 wines from the vintage have really benefited from a decade in the cellar.

Case in point? Chateau Marsau, in the Cotes d Francs.  A wine that in its youth was described as having “medium chewy tannins” by James Suckling has mellowed out into a surprisingly complete mature bottle of Bordeaux.  Surprisingly complete, by the way, because the wine is still under $20/bottle.  Based on recent Cellartracker notes, this is fantastic right now, but if you stocked up you could absolutely drink it over the next half decade.

In Stock Now:

Chateau Marsau, Cotes de Francs Bordeaux 2009 750ML ($27.95) $19 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
James Suckling 90 points “A wine, with pleasing blackberries and mushroom character, medium chewy tannins and a fresh clean finish. Full body. Try in 2014.”
Stephen Tanzer 89 points “Medium ruby-red. Pure aromas and flavors of black cherry, menthol and smoky tobacco lifted by a floral quality. Supple and gentle, with attractive sweetness and impressive volume for the price. Juicy and well-delineated too, without any rough edges. Finishes with dusty, tongue-coating tannins and nice length. A merlot like this in this price range would make a popular restaurant wine.”

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
The average listed price is $26