Vinopolis Weekend Addition 10-27-18

Weekend Burgundy Feature

Back Vintage Chateau de Chorey
Smart Money Burgundy (2015 Collotte)
Vintage Lafarge, Star of Volnay
The Brilliant Jerome Chezeaux
Gevrey-Chambertin in all its Glory

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Domaine du Chateau de Chorey

An Assortment of Back Vintage Gems

Domaine du Chateau de Chorey Les Vignes Franches Vieilles Vignes, Beaune Premier Cru 2006 750ML ($79.95) $45 special
Burghound 90-92 points “Sweet Spot Outstanding. A very floral and exceptionally fresh nose of rose and violets introduces detailed, fine and sweet middle weight flavors that are supple, pure and complex, all wrapped in a balanced, long and refined finish. This is an understated wine of harmony and style.”

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Domaine du Chateau de Chorey Les Cras Vieilles Vignes, Beaune Premier Cru 2004 750ML ($59.95) $36 special
Burghound 90 points “Outstanding. Discreet touches of wood spice and forest floor also add nuance to the slightly riper and very fresh fruit aromas that lead to rich, full and sweet flavors that are both delicious and serious as well as unusually concentrated for the vintage. Very solid quality here and worth a look.”

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Domaine du Chateau de Chorey Les Cras Vieilles Vignes, Beaune Premier Cru 2006 750ML ($79.95) $48 special
David Schildknecht-Wine Advocate 92 points “From the sixty year old vines rooted I chalk and flint that in my experience here (since 1985) nearly always give the most memorable but also the most austere Germain wine of a vintage, their 2006 Beaune Les Cras Vieilles Vignes displays formidable concentration and grip. Ripe black cherry and purple plum with their pits; roasted meats; peat, chalk and stone; bittersweet herbal extractions and nippy spices are the building blocks of this unusually structured 2006. There is also a juiciness of rare meat and fresh berries and a resinous sappiness to compliment the austerity of this wine’s adamant mineral expressions. The feel is firmer and the chalkiness far more pronounced than with any of the other Chateau de Chorey 2006s, but at the same time this is purest in fruit. I would plan on following this for at least a decade.”

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Domaine du Chateau de Chorey Les Teurons, Beaune Premier Cru 2006 750ML ($69.95) $45 special
David Schildknecht-Wine Advocate 91 points “The Germain 2008 Beaune Teurons displays aromas of roasted chestnut, cassis, nutmeg, cinnamon, blond tobacco, and vanilla, which follow on a palate of considerable friskiness and berry-freshness, underlain by notes of chalk, moss, and other aspects of forest floor. The piquancy of brown spices is especially prominent in a palate-staining finish that in no way betrays this energetic wine’s over-14% alcohol. Look for at least 10-12 years of fascination.”

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Smart Money Burgundy

Collotte’s 2015’s

“Collotte remains one of the most under the radar growers in Marsannay. At their best, these wines are striking for their purity of fruit and overall sense of harmony.” –Antonio Galloni

A vintage like 2015 isn’t just a great year in Burgundy—it’s a great buying opportunity if you know where to look.  While the prices for the top wines from the best producers skyrocketed, the value producers’ prices barely budged.  That’s an exceptional opportunity, as the floor rises far more than the ceiling in a warm year like ’15.  This is a prime chance to chase the best lower tier wines in 2015—Bourgogne, village wines and wines from less heralded terroirs.

A perfect example? Domaine Collotte’s wines from Marsannay and Fixin.  You should be stocking up on these wines, and wines like them, in 2015. They’re reasonably priced, from old vines on good soil and made by a real craftsman.  In a cooler year, these wines might be a bit rustic compared to their more famous neighbor, Gevery-Chambertin, but in a warm year like 2015 these are the real deal.

We’ve carried these wines for a few years and are always excited to source them, but there’s a marked step up in quality for the 2015’s.  Wine Spectator just reviewed a number of bottlings and based on the scores they clearly agree with us—these are wines to snatch up.  The best part of the equation is the pricing—the entry level wine (made from 70+ year old vines) is under $20 and the top wines he produces under $40.

In the world of Burgundy, those are steals, especially for this level of quality.  We received less than 10 cases of each of them (save the Bourgogne) and they should disappear fast, so stock up soon—a vintage opportunity like this doesn’t come along often.

In Stock Now:

From 71 year old vines!
Domaine Collotte Bourgogne Cuvee de Noble Souche, Burgundy 2015 750ML ($29.95) $19 special
VinopolNote: Surprisingly for an entry-level red, this bottling is from a parcel planted with the oldest vines of the estate: 71 year old vines grown on pebbly Cailloux soil.
Importer note “Bourgogne ‘Noble Souché’ translates to the ‘noble vine’ from almost 70 year old vines planted in 1947 on Marsannay Cailloux soil from Champforeys. Entirely, de-estemmed, slow fermentation with 5 days of pre-maceration. Aged for 11 months 90% in stainless steel tank, this is a lovely, subtlety rich Côte de Nuits wine.”

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A selection from two parcels
Domaine Collotte Fixin, Cote de Nuits 2015 750ML ($34.95) $28 special
Wine Spectator 91 points “Appealing aromas of burning vine cuttings and sweet spices give way to cherry and currant fruit in this smooth, smoke-tinged red. Long and satisfying, leaving a hint of mint on the finish. Drink now through 2025. 35 cases imported.”
Importer Note “The Fixin is from two parcels of Village Fixin both both with eastern exposition on calcareous clay soil. Aged in oak, 25% new, to round the tannins.”

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The 40+ year old vines produce tiny, concentrated berries
Domaine Collotte Fixin Les Crais de Chene, Cote de Nuits 2015 750ML ($44.95) $36 special
Wine Spectator 92 points “A pure dose of cherry, strawberry, sweet spice and mineral marks this harmonious red. Firm and focused, with a lingering finish of spice. Shows plenty of class. Best from 2020 through 2030. 50 cases imported.”

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Single lieu-dit in Marsannay
Domaine Collotte Marsannay Les Boivins, Cote de Nuits 2015 750ML ($34.95) $28 special
Wine Spectator 90 points “The core flavors of black cherry and blackberry are wrapped in oak, lending vanilla and sweet spice details along with a layer of tannins. Just needs a little more time. Best from 2020 through 2028. 110 cases imported.”

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Domaine Collotte Marsannay Les Champsalomon, Cote de Nuits 2015 750ML ($34.95) $28 special
Wine Spectator 91 points “Silky, this red evokes cherry, strawberry and graphite flavors, with bright acidity keeping this fresh and focused. Harmonious and long, offering a light chalky feel on the finish. Drink now through 2023. 150 cases imported.”
Importer Note “The Marsannay Champsalomon is from the village of Couchey. The 40+ year old vines are on the marl soil of the Ostrea Acuminata.”

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Domaine Collotte Marsannay Le Clos de Jeu, Cote de Nuits 2015 750ML ($34.95) $28 special
Wine Spectator 93 points “Linear and intense, featuring cherry, raspberry and mineral flavors defined by the taut structure. Balanced and long, with a spicy aftertaste. Best from 2021 through 2030. 100 cases imported.”

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50+ year old vines in shallow limestone over bedrock
Domaine Collotte Marsannay En Combereau, Cote de Nuits 2015 750ML ($34.95) $28 special
Wine Spectator 92 points
“Round and supple, presenting the ideal foil for the rich cherry and floral aromas and flavors. Features hint of oak and tannins on the lingering finish. Drink now through 2027. 100 cases imported.”

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Domaine Collotte Marsannay Cuvee Vieilles Vignes, Cote de Nuits 2015 750ML ($29.95) $24 special
Grapelive 91 points “Exploring value priced Burgundy usually ends in huge disappointment, but sometimes you find a jewel. The wines of Philippe Collotte are just that, especially his old vine Marsannay, where there are 5 parcels of 50+ year old vines that make up his excellent super-value Marsannay Cuvee Vieilles Vignes. It way over-delivers for the price… He bottles everything unfiltered per his importer’s request (Weygant Metzler). It makes for an expressive and mineral-driven Pinot Noir of wonderful delicacy, but with solid fruit intensity which forms its perception of depth flavors. While starting with classic Burgundy subtly and brightness, things gain a darker feel with air allowing layers of black cherry, strawberry and earthy vine-picked berries to come through on the medium bodied palate. The mouth-feel and length are quite impressive for a wine of this price. Rose petals, chalk dust and cedar notes along with a mixed spice note add to the whole here. There’s no question this will surprise a few people. The vintage with its concentrated ripe profile certainly helped and the old vines give a charm that with put a smile on many a face. It did mine! Drink this Marsannay over the next 3 to 5 years. It’s a no-guilt Burgundy to get by the case!”

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The average price is $26
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Vintage Lafarge

Star Wines from a Star of Volnay

“Perhaps nobody has embodied the allure of Burgundy as well as Michel Lafarge, whose family estate in Volnay makes wines that Burgundy lovers prize for their deep, soulful beauty.”- Eric Asimov, New York Times

Simply put, the wines of Lafarge are some of the best in Burgundy.  These are epic, pure Burgundy, from some of the best terroirs in the Cote de Beaune.  Lafarge is a top three producer in Volnay and would certainly be in any discussion for best values in the top end of Burgundy.  These are magical wines—ethereal and profound.  To be able to secure library stock is truly a rare feat—buyers of these wines tend to hold and drink them, rather than reselling.  We’re excited to offer them to you today, though stock on each bottling is quite limited.

In Stock Now:

Domaine Michel Lafarge Clos des Chenes, Volnay Premier Cru 2008 750ML ($219.95) $199 pre-arrival special
Burghound 94 points “This too serves up a remarkably layered if extremely reserved nose that displays plenty of earth and spice as well as very fresh and cool aromas of red and blue pinot, floral notes and an obvious mineral influence that continues onto the tautly muscular and overtly powerful big-bodied flavors that are long, serious and focused on the presently austere finish. It’s interesting to compare the quality of the tannins between this and the Caillerets – here they are denser but less fine and as a consequence, this will need a few extra years of cellar time.”
Stephen Tanzer – Vinous 93+ points “Good deep red. High-pitched aromas of black cherry, violet, licorice and crushed stone. Like liquid silk on entry, then concentrated, primary and penetrating in the mid-palate, with beautifully integrated acidity accentuating the wine’s dark, medicinal aspect. At once broad and lively on the finish, with rich dark fruit flavors building slowly and staining the palate. I might have picked this blend as a Cote de Nuits wine.”

Domaine Michel Lafarge Les Mitans, Volnay Premier Cru 2013 750ML ($189.95) $159 pre-arrival special
Burghound 90-92 points “Once again there is striking purity to the elegant and airy essence of red currant, cherry and pomegranate suffused nose. There is really lovely detail and intensity to the refined and lacy middle weight flavors that possess a dusty and overtly saline finish. This is textbook Mitans with its finesse and restrained palate feel.”

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Arriving ETA Mid-November

Only one bottle available
Domaine Michel Lafarge Greves, Beaune Premier Cru 2003 750ML ($109.95) $89 pre-arrival special
Burghound 91 points
“A subtle hint of wood spice frames slightly riper yet reserved plum and cassis-infused nose that avoids being jammy, all wrapped in ripe and prominent tannins with a remarkable amount of dry extract and stunning finishing complexity. A stunningly good effort for the vintage as the vast majority of Beaune-based wines were completely atypical.”

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Domaine Michel Lafarge Les Aigrots Rouge, Beaune Premier Cru 2005 750ML ($119.95) $99 pre-arrival special
Burghound 90 points “A completely different aromatic profile presents itself with a much more fruit-driven yet also more elegant nose that runs more toward cool red pinot and raspberry and while there is a touch of earth, it’s subtle. The medium weight flavors are very Beaune in character with a rich, sweet and generous mouth feel and a detailed and mineral suffused finish. This delicate offering is on the linear side at present but packed with upside potential and vibrancy that should reward 6 to 8 years of cellar time.”
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Domaine Michel Lafarge Les Pezerolles, Pommard Premier Cru 2008 750ML ($149.95) $119 pre-arrival special
Burghound 92 points “A strikingly fresh and highly complex nose is quite cool and restrained and only grudgingly offers up notes of bright red pinot fruit and mineral nuances that characterize the racy, precise and driving middle weight flavors that culminate in a moderately austere finish of beautiful length and impeccable balance. As it typically does, this manages to combine power with finesse.”
Wine Advocate 91-92 points “A garrigue-like resinous herbal overtone to ripe cherry marks the nose of Lafarges’ 2008 Pommard Pezerolles, which comes to the palate with a striking combination of bright, tart, yet ripe fruit; broth-like mineral suffusion; and persistent herbal pungency. Lafarge senior considers Pezerolles – or at least, his – inherently more forward and expressive early on than wine from most of his other appellations, but I have to insist that this site is simply having a terrific vintage in 2008 and that here is another case in point. Polished in texture, long-lived, and vibratory – with fruit pit and mineral notes adding to its finishing dynamic – this should be worth following for 15-20 years. Unfortunately, at 20 hectoliters per hectare thanks to selective picking of an already tiny crop, there is only a single barrel to be had.”
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Domaine Michel Lafarge Les Caillerets, Volnay Premier Cru 2008 750ML ($119.95) $99 pre-arrival special
Burghound 94 points “A superbly complex nose, indeed it’s close between this and the Clos des Chênes for which possesses the most aromatic complexity. Red currant, plum, earth, spice and violet aromas marry into rich, intense and strikingly precise stone-driven medium-bodied flavors that display gorgeous purity of expression on the precise and tension filled finish that delivers excellent length. In sum, this is a wine of crystalline purity.”
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Domaine Michel Lafarge Clos du Chateau des Ducs, Volnay Premier Cru2008 750ML ($199.95) $149 pre-arrival special
Burghound 93 points “A nose of pure pinot, violets and dissolved mineral notes complement to perfection the detailed and stone-driven medium-bodied flavors that possess fine volume and a gorgeously balanced finish. The harmony here is Zen-like.”
Stephen Tanzer 92+ points “Good medium red. Complex but reticent aromas of red fruits and soil. A rich, velvety style of 2008, youthfully closed today but already displaying impressive volume. This gained in clarity and freshness as it opened in the mouth, showing excellent medicinal reserve to its red and darker berry and licorice flavors. Finishes with impressive length. I’d give this seven years in the cellar.”
David Schildknecht 92-93 points “The Lafarge monopole 2008 Volnay Clos Du Chateau Des Ducs leads with striking buddleia perfume, kirsch, and aromatic intimations of oceanic salinity and crustacean savor. Juicy and vibrant; elegant, tenderly-fruited and polished; this is one of those wines that manages to enervate and caress at the same time, and in which bright ripe fruit is allied to a remarkable depth of elements than can only be explicated in animal and mineral terms. Overt suggestions of chalk and cherry pit lend the buoyant finish a measure of austerity, but it is so saliva-inducing and refreshing that severity is not a risk. It should last for at least 15 years.”
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Domaine Michel Lafarge Clos du Chateau des Ducs, Volnay Premier Cru2009 750ML ($249.95) $199 pre-arrival special
Burghound 94 points “This is aromatically a bit less elegant than the Mitans but it is more complex with cool red and blue pinot fruit, violet, earth and stone nuances introducing attractively rich and equally pure middle weight flavors that exhibit real verve on the mouth coating and exceptionally persistent finish. As usual, this is a classic Volnay that is built to age and will need every bit of 12 to 15 years to be at its best. In short, this is a knockout.”
Antonio Galloni 93-95 points “The estate’s 2009 Volnay Clos du Chateau des Ducs saturates the palate with its deep, persistent fruit. The aromas and flavors build in the glass towards the rich, multi-dimensional finish. This shows marvelous staying power and fabulous overall balance. The Clos du Chateau des Ducs is more overtly fruit-driven and structured but perhaps a touch less aromatically expressive than the Mitans. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2039.”
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The Brilliant Burgundy of Jerome Chezeaux

“[2015] yielded perhaps the greatest wines of Jerome’s career thus far. His prioritizing of freshness over richness can yield wines of almost edgy leanness in less “solar” vintages (though we wholly adore such scintillating Burgundies), but in a naturally generous vintage such as 2015 the balance is eerily perfect. Fruit is a hint more fleshy, mouthfeels subtly silkier, but the characteristic Chezeaux drive and tension are fully intact. There is never a molecule of fat on Jerome’s wines, and these 2015s are no exception—in fact, we feel you’d be hard-pressed to find ‘15s of this level of filigree precision. Chezeaux wines are always comfortable in their structure but never show signs of undue extraction, and, though these 2015s may demand a bit of time, they resonate with the hum of perfect structural harmony. Buy and cellar these wines with confidence, and revel in the fact that they are priced with almost shocking modesty—a reflection of their creator’s selflessness and spirit.” –Clarke Boehling, Neal Rosenthal Imports

Jerome Chezeaux makes wines that epitomize our favorite sort of Burgundy.  Age-worthy, fine and built on a core of minerality, but priced a tier below what the wines deliver.  Make no mistake about it—Chezeaux makes wines that can be poured with the finest producers in Nuits, but cost 25% less.  In a vintage like 2015 he really shines, as the warm year buttresses his mineral style with a bit broader shoulders and more fruit.  The three premier cru Nuits-St. George wines are of particular note—they’re incredible values and are only slightly more expensive than some producer’s village bottlings.

Jerome Chezeaux In Stock Now:

“Seriously Classy for the Price”
Jerome Chezeaux Bourgogne Rouge, Burgundy 2015 750ML ($34.95) Was $28, Now $24, 6 bottles in stock now (12 more arriving October 30th!)
Grapelive 91 points
“One Burgundy’s under the radar stars, Jérome Chézeaux follows historic guidelines using ultra traditional methods in the cellar, he’s a genuine and studied “non-interventionist” employing natural indigenous yeasts after a cold maceration his fermentations last 2 to 3 weeks with about a 30% new oak regime. What sets Chezeaux apart is the purity and delicacy in his wines from vines in and around Nuits-Saint-George mainly, though he also has holdings in Vougeot and Vosne-Romanee as well. The basic cuvee, the Bourgogne Rouge is from parcels near the estate in Prémeaux-Prissey just south of Nuits-Saint-Georges, as well as Nuits-Saint-Georges itself, only Cote de Nuits fruit is used and the wine reflects the local terroir of these sites and of the clay, sand, gravels and limestone soils. This wine usually is fresh in detail, bright and with a slightly restrained character along with having a earthy/savory edge, but with the 2015 vintage there seems to be a deeper sense of fruit to be found with classic Burgundy charm and elegance. This is a killer value, starting with a touch of reduction that quickly fades into bing cherry, plum and briar laced raspberry fruits with a hint of loamy earth, minty herb, orange rind and soft floral tones, adding a bit of body with air, it got even better the next day picking up a slightly dark character, this ruby/garnet Pinot is seriously classy for the price.”
Importer note “Chezeaux’s exemplary Bourgogne Rouge comes from a smattering of parcels in Premeaux-Prissey and Nuits-Saint-Georges encompassing 2.8 hectares in total. A wonderful representative of both Jerome’s style and the classic character of Nuits-Saint-Georges and environs, it emphasizes fresh, lively fruit buttressed by firm minerality, all on a racy, energetic frame. This is a sleek, articulate Bourgogne Rouge unencumbered by oak influence, as Chezeaux employs no new barrels in its elevage.”

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The average price is $27
Winemaker’s favorite!
Jerome Chezeaux Aux Boudots, Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru 2015 750ML ($89.95) $75 special, 6 bottles in stock now
Importer note
“Always a favorite in Chezeaux’s cellar, “Aux Boudots” is perched at the northern limit of Nuits-Saint-Georges, on the border of Vosne-Romanee. As one might expect given its location, this wine combines classically Nuits-Saint-Georges iron and sous-bois with fruit a bit more caressing and Vosne-Romanee-like than its more southerly situated counterparts. Chezeaux owns a very small 0.34-hectare parcel in this steeply sloping premier cru.”

Arriving October 30th

Jerome Chezeaux Bourgogne Aligote, Burgundy 2016 750ML ($21.95) $18 pre-arrival special, only 6 bottles available
Importer note
“Made from a .8-hectare parcel in Premeaux-Prissey, the Aligoté is always an impressive regional-level wine.  It typically carries a good underlying acidity that translates toward citrus and flint, with good length and density.  The wine finishes quite dry with a chalky tannic character.”

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Jerome Chezeaux Nuits-Saint-Georges, Cote de Nuits 2015 750ML ($59.95) $49 pre-arrival special, only 6 bottles available
Importer note
“The Chezeaux family owns almost four hectares of vineyards within the village appellation of Nuits Saint Georges. The vineyards are found within a number of lieu-dits but the ultimate cuvée that is bottled is principally from the Charbonniere site supplemented by Les Chaliots and Aux Saint Julien. The vines are very old, some being planted over eighty years ago (written as of early 2012). The soil is a mix of silts of clay, reddish-brown in color, overlain with limestone pebbles.”
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Jerome Chezeaux Vosne-Romanee, Cote de Nuits 2015 750ML ($69.95) $59 pre-arrival special, only 6 bottles available
Importer note
“Jerome owns a half-hectare’s worth of villages-level Vosne-Romanee, spread among three lieux-dits: “Aux Reas,” “Bossieres,” and “Meziere.” His remarkably deft, light touch allows that classic Vosne-Romanee spice and silkiness to shine through brilliantly, its dark, regal, seductive fruit contrasting the gutsier, more forcefully mineral carriage of its Nuits-Saint-Georges brethren.”

Jerome Chezeaux Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Charbonnieres Vieilles Vignes, Cote de Nuits 2015 750ML ($69.95) $59 pre-arrival special, only 6 bottles available
Importer note
“In the past, “Les Charbonnieres” was blended with the village wine until Jérôme decided to do a separate bottling in 2011. The .67-hectare parcel is ideally located in Prémeaux just below the Premier Cru “Aux Corvées”.  The vines are over 80 years old and show the power and concentration that marks this fabled southern sector of the appellation.  This is a big step up from the village Nuits.”

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Jerome Chezeaux Chaumes, Vosne-Romanee Premier Cru 2015 750ML ($89.95) $69 pre-arrival special, only 15 bottles available
Importer note
“This wine is consistently one of our favorites from the domaine. Chezeaux owns about four-tenths of an hectare in Chaumes which is in the southern part of the village of Vosne and is superbly situated just beneath La Tache and Aux Malconsorts on a vein of limestone and marl. We have the privilege of having access to two barrels of this wine (600 bottles) annually.”
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Gevrey-Chambertin

In All Its Glory

Gevrey-Chambertin and its grand crus are some of the superstars of Burgundy, second only to Vosne in fame and glory.  Chambertin was Napoleon’s favorite wine and that legacy has continued through to this day—wines from the village are still very special, from top to bottom.  We’ve secured a parcel of top producer wines, arriving the middle of next month and are pleased to offer them to you at excellent prices.

Arriving ETA Mid-November

Only three bottles available
Francois Leclerc Gevrey-Chambertin Les Corbeaux 1er Cru 2014 ($99.95) $79 pre-arrival special

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Only one bottle available
Domaine Drouhin-Laroze Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru, Cote de Nuits 2005 750ML ($149.95) $119 pre-arrival special
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Only one bottle available
Domaine Drouhin-Laroze Latricieres-Chambertin Grand Cru, Cote de Nuits 2005 750ML ($189.95) $159 pre-arrival special
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Only three bottles available
Claude Dugat Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru, Cote de Nuits 2011 750ML ($349.95) $319 pre-arrival special
Antonio Galloni 95 points “The 2011 Charmes-Chambertin is pure pleasure. Black cherries, plums, cloves, violets and new leather are all woven together in a fabric of notable class. Here it is the wine’s extraordinary textural finesse and overall harmony that take over all of the senses. There is so much to like here, including the wine’s generous, inviting personality. The Charmes has really come on strong over the last year.” AG
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Only three bottles available
Claude Dugat Gevrey-Chambertin, Cote de Nuits 2014 750ML ($99.95) $89 pre-arrival special
Stephen Tanzer 89 points “(bottled in March): Bright dark red. Aromas of blackberry, raspberry, flowers, earth and spicy oak. Juicy, sappy village wine with dark fruit flavors complemented by salty minerality. Tickles the salivary glands on the finish but this wine needs a couple years to integrate its firm tannins. I found this a bit rustic from barrel but today it’s a classic Gevrey villages.”

Only one bottle available
Claude Dugat Griottes-Chambertin Grand Cru, Cote de Nuits 2011 750ML ($459.95) $419 pre-arrival special
Antonio Galloni 93-95 points “The 2011 Griotte-Chambertin is wonderfully lifted and perfumed in the glass, reflecting the true essence of Griotte. Here the flavors and textures inhabit an upper register of pure beauty. Sweet floral notes are layered into a finish of simply extraordinary finesse.”

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Thanks for reading!