In Today’s Newsletter:
Sassetti Pertimali’s Stunning Brunello
Sette Ponti’s Best-Selling Super Tuscans
Including the #25 Wine of 2018
Gatinois: The Glory of Äy
Pinnacle of Spain
Prestige Bottles $119+
First Offers from Bordeaux, Champagne & the Rhône
Smart Buys from Germany
All $24 – $29
New Arrival from Mount Eden Vineyards
Collector’s Corner
Castello di Ama: Chianti First Growth
Sassetti Pertimali’s Traditional Brunello
Simply put, Brunello di Montalicino would not be the wine that we know and love today without the Sassetti family. Livio Sassetti is one of the founding fathers of Brunello and the wines coming off of his “Pertimali” estate define the genre. This is a Grand Cru site in Montalcino and the wines are thrilling whenever you get a chance to taste them. We worked hard to acquire both the 2014 and 2015 Brunello and have their standout bottles from both vintages in stock now.
These are wines that define what “traditional” means within the context of Brunello—robust personalities with delicate aromatics, long aging in botti and the capacity to age for a long time in a cool cellar. The 2014 is the vintage to drink early—the year yielded wines that have a bit less power but an approachable personality. The 2015, on the other hand, is a wine that’s surprisingly soft for how much depth there is, but is really something to hang onto for a while. We’d stock up on both.
In Stock Now:
Livio Sassetti Pertimali Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Tuscany 2015 750ML ($89.95) $69 special, 20 bottles in stock now
Case-6 Livio Sassetti Pertimali Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Tuscany 2015 750ML ($549.95) $399 special (that’s only $66.50/bottle!)
Livio Sassetti Pertimali Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Tuscany 2015 1.5L ($189.95) $159 special, 7 magnums in stock now
Case-3 Livio Sassetti Pertimali Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Tuscany 2015 1.5L ($599.95) $449 special (that’s only $149.67/magnum!)
James Suckling 98 points “There’s something ethereal in the nose with flowers, cherries, strawberries and shitake mushrooms. Full body. This grows on the palate with super tannin and fruit structure. So much berry flavor and round, caressing tannins that fill your mouth. Tight at the end. This needs four to five years to show its true greatness. Try after 2023.”
Livio Sassetti Pertimali Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Tuscany 2014 750ML ($69.95) $49 special, 35 bottles in stock now
Case-6 Livio Sassetti Pertimali Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Tuscany 2014 750ML ($419.95) $279 special (that’s only $46.50/bottle!)
James Suckling 94 points “Some earthy and savory aromas dominate the dried red cherries initially, then dried wild herbs and quite intense notes of spicy dried red cherries emerge. The palate has a very taut, structured feel with handsomely proportioned tannins carrying gently leathery dried red cherries. Long finish. Drink or hold.”
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Sette Ponti’s Best-Selling Super Tuscans
Including the #25 Wine of 2018
Sette Ponti makes some of the finest Super Tuscans out there. They’re best known for Oreno, one of the most recognizable names in the Super Tuscan field. Year after year, Oreno delivers rich, dense wines from clay and limestone-rich soils that are delicious on release but evolve into really spectacular drinks with a few years of age on them. There’s no Sangiovese in the blend and the wine would be a sneaky ringer in a Second Growth Bordeaux tasting—it’s that good.
While Sette Ponti is best known for Oreno, their value-priced Crognolo is no less notable. Made with every bit the same care as the flashier Oreno, Crognolo’s Sangiovese dominant blend provides a beautiful drink-now option at less than half the price of the flagship wine. Our first drop sold-out quickly last year, but we were fortunately able to secure another allotment of this absolute knockout of a wine. 2017 being a warm year in Tuscany, the wine is bestowed with more fruit and softer tannins than usual, and this has made it an even better early drinker than usual.
In Stock Now:
#25 Wine of the Year – James Suckling Top 100 in 2018
Tenuta Sette Ponti Oreno Toscana IGT 2016 750ML ($119.95) $89 special, 22 bottles in stock now
Case-6 Tenuta Sette Ponti Oreno Toscana IGT 2016 750ML ($599.95) $499 special (that’s only $83.17/bottle!)
James Suckling 99 points “Gorgeous floral and deep, dark berry aromas with hints of spices such as cinnamon and hazelnuts. Full body and ultra-fine and strong tannins that are powerful yet so sleek and beautiful. Fantastic length and texture. Deep, dark and profound. Takes you on a long journey and shows you its true character. Better in 2025. Give it time.”
Tenuta Sette Ponti Crognolo Toscana IGT, Tuscany 2017 750ML ($39.95) $24 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Case-6 Tenuta Sette Ponti Crognolo Toscana IGT, Tuscany 2017 750ML ($249.95) $132 special (that’s only $22/bottle!)
James Suckling 94 points “A balanced and fresh red for the hot 2017 vintage with medium body, fine tannins and plenty of currants, blackberries and blueberries on the finish. Drink or hold.”
Wine Spectator 93 points “A beam of pure blackberry runs through this otherwise dense and focused red. Shows elegance, with balance and complexity, but needs time to integrate and reveal all its facets. Offers fine, minerally length. Sangiovese and Merlot. Best from 2021 through 2032. 7,500 cases made, 4,000 cases imported.”
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Gatinois: The Glory of Äy
Äy is an easy village to love in Champagne—and also a place that’s easy to have never heard of. Their most significant landowner, Bollinger, inexplicably doesn’t mention Äy on their labels. Nevertheless, that richer, more powerful style that everyone associates with Bollinger (and the other big producer in the town, Gosset) is very much the flavor of Äy. The Champagnes from the village show tons of rich fruit and opulent, impressive textures to match their cepage—leaving little doubt that these are Pinot based bubbles.
Of the producers in Äy, Gatinois might be the most undervalued. The family farms some of the best land in the town, and works with a very high proportion of a massale selection of Pinot Noir called “Petite Pinot d’Äy”. The small berries that the clone is known for ensure exceptionally flavorful base wines that translate into the finished product. Gatinois’ wines are rich, textured and powerful. These are staff favorite Champagnes, and we’re excited to feature them once again today.
In Stock Now:
Gatinois Aÿ Grand Cru Réserve Brut, Champagne NV 750ML ($64.95) $49 special, 17 bottles in stock now
Winery note “Attractive yellow hue with honeyed reflections. The complex nose offers white flowers, yellow fruits and candied citrus. 3 years of ageing in our cellars allows the champagne to develop a rich, smooth texture on the palate, with notes of stewed fruit, brioche and honey complemented by the generosity of Pinot Noir. Pinot Noir (80%), Chardonnay (20%). Terroir: Aÿ Grand Cru 100%. Aged “sur lattes“: 3 years.”
Peter Liem note “All Gatinois wines are labeled grand cru, as they are all pure Aÿ fruit, and while pinot noir is naturally predominant, all of the wines include a small proportion of chardonnay, anywhere between five and 20 percent. These are bold, hearty wines, with a mouthfilling depth of flavor, and due to the ripe pinot noir fruit, the wines always have a little color. “It’s a full-bodied style, with a lot of flavors and a lot of aroma,” said Pierre Cheval, the first time I ever visited him. “They’re wines for gastronomy, not for sitting around the swimming pool.” They serve as an excellent reference point for Aÿ, demonstrating a remarkable sense of place. The Gatinois range begins with the Tradition, blended from three vintages and released after three years of aging; a portion of the Tradition is held back for an additional year on the lees and released as the Réserve. The rosé is also based on a non-vintage blend, but it contains a higher content of pinot noir.”
VinopolNote “70% 2015 vintage”
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
Gatinois Aÿ Grand Cru Rosé Brut, Champagne NV 750ML ($69.95) $55 special, 21 bottles in stock now
John Gilman 92 points “[Review is for previous release, provided for reference.] The Gatinois non-vintage Brut Rosé currently in the market is its customary blend of ninety percent pinot noir and ten percent chardonnay, with all of the fruit hailing from the village of Aÿ. It is from the base year of 2014, with all of the vins clairs having undergone malolactic and the still red wine added to the bottling hailing from sixty year-old vines in Aÿ (after a full year of barrel aging for the red wine). It was aged sur latte for three years prior to disgorgement and finished with a dosage of six grams per liter. The wine offers up an outstanding bouquet of cherries, rhubarb, gentle spice tones, wheat toast, chalky soil tones and a bit of upper register smokiness. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, focused and rock solid at the core, with lovely mineral drive, elegant mousse and fine length and grip on the complex and very nicely balanced finish. This is first class Aÿ Rosé! 2020-2035+.”
Peter Liem note “All Gatinois wines are labeled grand cru, as they are all pure Aÿ fruit, and while pinot noir is naturally predominant, all of the wines include a small proportion of chardonnay, anywhere between five and 20 percent. These are bold, hearty wines, with a mouthfilling depth of flavor, and due to the ripe pinot noir fruit, the wines always have a little color. “It’s a full-bodied style, with a lot of flavors and a lot of aroma,” said Pierre Cheval, the first time I ever visited him. “They’re wines for gastronomy, not for sitting around the swimming pool.” They serve as an excellent reference point for Aÿ, demonstrating a remarkable sense of place. The Gatinois range begins with the Tradition, blended from three vintages and released after three years of aging; a portion of the Tradition is held back for an additional year on the lees and released as the Réserve. The rosé is also based on a non-vintage blend, but it contains a higher content of pinot noir.”
Winery note “Intense hue with salmon-coloured highlights. Our Grand Cru Brut Rosé displays the characteristic elegant style of Gatinois Champagnes. The nose and palate offer up a subtle bouquet of red fruit (strawberries, blackberries, cherries) and a dash of spice which evolves into lingering notes of morello cherries on the rich finish. The dosage remains discreet at 6g/l. A pleasurable champagne, a champagne with heart, characterised by elegance and warmth, ideal for an impromptu aperitif with friends and perfect for gift giving. It is also excellent with food, try it paired with seared Atlantic salmon, pink on the bones, or with desserts such as a red fruit gaspacho.”
VinopolNote “70% 2015 vintage”
This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast today!
Gatinois Aÿ Grand Cru Tradition Brut, Champagne NV 750ML ($54.95) $44 special, 19 bottles in stock now
Antonio Galloni 91 points “The NV Brut Grand Cru Tradition is gorgeous, but it really needs another 6-12 months on the cork, as it is very reticent today. Dried flowers, red plum, mint and chalky notes add aromatic intrigue to play off the natural richness of the Pinot fruit, which is also evident in the wine’s copper-toned color. A Champagne of power and resonance, the Gatinois Brut Tradition has so much to offer. Best of all, it is a superb value. The blend is 90% Pinot Noir and 10% Chardonnay, all from estate holdings in Aÿ. Dosage: 7 gr/L. Disgorged: July, 2019.” [Disgorgement date may differ from review]
John Gilman 90 points “The new release of Brut Tradition from Louis Gatinois is from the base year of 2016 and was disgorged in September of 2019. It is its customary blend of eighty percent pinot noir from Aÿ and twenty percent chardonnay. The vins clairs all go through full malo and the blend includes thirty percent reserve wines. The bouquet is deep, youthful and classic Aÿ in personality, offering up scents of peach, apple, hazelnut, chalky soil tones, bread dough and a smoky topnote. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, broad-shouldered, bright and zesty, with a fine core of fruit, frothy mousse, very good depth and complexity and a long, well-balanced finish. The thirty percent reserve wines give this wine a nice patina of age on both the nose and palate. Good juice. 2020-2035.”
Winery note “Predominantly Pinot Noir (80%) which brings richness, structure and a delicious character. The 20% of Chardonnay adds a feminine touch to the blend. There is also a significant proportion of reserve wines in the blend (30%). The champagne is aged “sur lattes” (horizontally on racks) in our cellars for 2 years before the yeasts are disgorged.”
VinopolNote “70% 2016 vintage”
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Pinnacle of Spain
Prestige Bottles $119+
In Stock Now:
A producer with a cult following in Spain
Daniel Gómez Jiménez Landi ‘El Reventón’, Cebreros 2017 750ML ($134.95) $119 special, 5 bottles in stock now
Luis Gutierrez-Wine Advocate 94+ points “El Reventón in the village of Cebreros (Ávila) is really two plots just a few meters apart, but with different exposition, altitude and soils that make up one hectare of vines. Given the differences and the fact that part of the vineyard has basically no soil and the mother rock on the surface, they have been studying these soils and making further selections to decide which plants go into the wine. In 2016, they experimented with two different bottlings. But the 2017 El Reventón is a single cuvée of the grapes from both plots, as they had hail and used all the grapes that could be saved. The vinification follows the same modus operandi as with the rest of the wines—manual selection of every bunch, discarding all the single grapes that are not perfect, then fermentation with the stems and a long maceration in oak vats, of course with indigenous yeasts. The élevage was in used oak barrels and lasted for a year. The wine has good ripeness, more power than wines like Las Iruelas and more fruit and a rounder palate, but it’s a more delicate vintage than other years, more fragile because of hail. It developed a high-pitched note of curry with time in the glass, a recurring note in this wine. Only 775 bottles were filled in March 2019.”
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A cellar pick
Daniel Gómez Jiménez-Landi ‘Cantos del Diablo’, Méntrida 2018 750ML ($149.95) $119 special, 12 bottles in stock now
Luis Gutierrez-Wine Advocate 95 points “The single-vineyard 2018 Cantos del Diablo was produced with the grapes from 0.35 hectares of 70-year-old Garnacha in the village of El Real de San Vicente (Toledo) at 900 meters in altitude, the highest vineyard in the Méntrida appellation. It’s a north-facing plot on sandy granite soils with lots of silt that deliver chalky tannins and a citrus freshness in the wine. The whole clusters fermented with indigenous yeasts in oak vats with a long maceration followed by an élevage in a 1,400-liter oak foudre for 12 months. This was extremely closed, even after a long time in the glass. It’s a vineyard that delivers more reductive wines (matchstick) with a strict palate and a strong mineral sensation. 1,620 bottles were filled in March 2020.”
The elegant side of Garnacha
Daniel Gómez Jiménez Landi ‘Las Iruelas’ El Tiemblo, Castilla y León 2017 750ML ($149.95) $125 special, 6 bottles in stock now
Luis Gutierrez-Wine Advocate 95 points “The 2017 Las Iruelas expresses the elegance and floral character the slate soils are capable of. It’s pure Garnacha from a relatively large vineyard in the Iruelas Valley in the village of El Tiemblo, province of Ávila. In reality, this slope of vines that was planted over 70 years ago has a combination of slate and granite (and sand, quartz and silt), and it’s very rocky with shallow soils, where the mother rock is only 20 centimeters from the surface. It’s isolated and surrounded by forests, and the orography (the nearby mountains) causes it to receive more rain. So, the wines have unusual finesse and subtleness. The vinification tries to preserve that character, by hand-selecting every single grape, fermenting the clusters with the yeasts from the grapes in oak vats, with a long maceration and low temperature. The wine matured in a 1,400-liter oak vat for 12 months. This is very pale, paler than it normally is, and has a more developed color and nose, combining more herbal aromas with a note of ripe berries and flowers; it’s elegant, delicate and balsamic and also a little fragile, with less finesse than Umbrías. This vineyard had hail twice and lost a lot of grapes, and the wine is probably going to evolve at a faster pace. 1,725 bottles were filled in March 2019.”
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“This is ethereal, transparent, aromatic and nuanced”
Daniel Gómez Jiménez Landi ‘Las Iruelas’ El Tiemblo, Castilla y León 2018 750ML ($149.95) $136 special, 6 bottles in stock now
Luis Gutierrez-Wine Advocate 98 points “Always a wine of incredible lightness and energy, the 2018 Las Iruelas excels in a year like 2018. It is delicate and floral and comes from a relatively large 1.1-hectare vineyard in the valley that names the wine, in the village of El Tiemblo in the province of Ávila in the Gredos wine region. It’s a very steep slope that faces east and gets the morning sun, but it is protected by the mountain from the afternoon sun. The soil is quite unique, as it contains a mixture of granite and schist, laminated and with vertical veins that allow the roots to go very deep. The soils are very shallow, barely 20 centimeters and are rich in sand, quartz and silt. The climate is also quite unique—it gets abundant rains since it’s located in a place where storms get trapped between the Tiétar and Alberche Valleys. The bunches are painstakingly cleaned, and every grape that is less than perfect is removed before they are put into oak vats to ferment with the natural yeasts, with a soft vinification and an infusion of very long macerations. The wine matured in a 1,400-liter oak vat for 12 months. This is ethereal, transparent, aromatic and nuanced, with incredible energy but with a silky mouthfeel that makes it feel light but has amazing inner power! It has to be the most elegant vintage of Iruelas. 1,785 bottles were filled in March 2020.”
Nuance without sacrificing power
Familia Nin-Ortiz ‘Nit de Nin’ La Coma d’en Romeu, Priorat DOCa 2017 750ML ($179.95) $149 special, 9 bottles in stock now
Luis Gutierrez-Wine Advocate 98+ points “The 2017 Nit de Nin La Coma d’en Romeu is from an extremely dry and early harvest that delivered just five hectoliters per hectare! That means they only produced 1,330 bottles from the 1.5 hectares of Garnacha on those slate terraces at 350 meters in altitude. It was bottled in April 2019. It has a beautiful and subtle nose that’s very spicy (cloves and cumin, curry and pink pepper) and floral, with a palate that feels light but has great depth and inner power, with pungent flavors and subtle minerality.”
The Bodega that put Ribera del Duero on the map
Vega Sicilia Tinto Valbuena 5, Ribera del Duero 2015 750ML ($199.95) $179 special, 5 bottles in stock now
James Suckling 97 points “The aromas to this are so complex and enticing with nutmeg, dark berries, chocolate and white pepper. Full body. Dense and layered with so much wonderful, complex and succulent character. It just makes you want to drink it. Drink or hold.”
Luis Gutierrez-Wine Advocate 96 points “The 2015 Valbuena, a red blend of mostly Tempranillo with some 5% Merlot, is released in the fifth year after the harvest. It’s explosive and showy, with a complex nose that shows a mixture of flowers and wild herbs, balsamic touches and great nuance. This wine has gained in complexity since the 2010 vintage, where they implemented some changes that increased the expressivity and precision of this wine. The tannins are fine-grained and there is very good balance, and the warm conditions of the year have been absorbed well by the wine. Despite the natural conditions of the year, the wine follows the path of freshness of the 2010. 173,673 bottles, 5,625 magnums and some larger formats produced. It was bottled in June 2018.”
“This is a tour de force Garnacha”
Terroir al Límit Soc. Lda. Les Manyes, Priorat DOCa 2014 750ML ($259.95) $219 special, 3 bottles in stock now
Wine Advocate 98 points “The 2014 Les Manyes was bottled a little earlier, in June 2016. In many wineries in Priorat, 2013 is clearly better than 2014, but it’s not that clear in the case here, and you have to take it wine by wine. In the case of this Les Manyes, I think 2014 was the big surprise, with a combination of depth, perfume, subtleness and power difficult to achieve. The clay and chalky soils provide for an extraordinary texture of tannins, a lot less coarse than those from slate soils. It distills all the Mediterranean herbs and flowers, the essence of ripe red cherries and wild strawberries with some chalky minerality in a nose and palate that is close to perfection. This is a tour de force Garnacha from… chalky soils in Priorat! There are 1,008 bottles produced.”
Wine & Spirits 97 points “Dominik Huber farms this wine in an unusual place by Priorat standards: It comes from a vineyard at 2,600 feet in altitude-one of the highest in the region-on red clay soil rather than the more celebrated slate. The result is a wine as taut as a high-tension cable, with an acidity so firm and strong that it seems to electrify the wine. Made entirely of garnacha, held in a single 1,200-liter barrel for two years before bottling, it’s rich in red fruit, spice and mineral notes, but above all it is rich in structure. A wine to drink in a decade.”
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“This might very well be the best vintage of Les Tosses so far”
Terroir al Límit Soc. Lda. Les Tosses, Priorat DOCa2014 750ML ($259.95) $219 special, 9 bottles in stock now
Wine Advocate 98 points “Already bottled in June 2016, slightly earlier as it usually spends two years in foudre to avoid excessive fatigue because of too much oxygen in the wine, the 2014 Les Tosses is pure Cariñena from an old vineyard on slate soils at some 650 meters altitude. There is none of the rusticity I often link to the grape, this is extremely floral and perfumed, with plenty of violets, a little earthy too. The palate is extremely balanced, and I don’t remember tannins as elegant as these in a Cariñena before. There is length, freshness and a very, very long finish. This might very well be the best vintage of Les Tosses so far. This wine feels very young and it’s a bit shy, but giving it time it is just amazing. It should be much better with a little more time in bottle. If you decide to pull the cork soon, make sure you give it some time to breathe. There are 1,946 bottles produced. The vineyard is almost two hectares, and Dominik Huber only used part of it for this bottling, and the rest goes to Torroja. But, his idea is to increase the volume so he’ll take longer to sell this vintage so he can keep the wine for one year longer in bottle before selling it. Smart thinking…”
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“Simply stunning”
Comando G ‘Rumbo al Norte’ Navarrevisca, Castilla y León 2018 750ML ($519.95) $419 special, 10 bottles in stock now
Luis Gutierrez-Wine Advocate 100 points “I have followed the 2018 Rumbo Al Norte since the day the grapes were harvested, on the 17th of October, a spectacular sunny day. These were some of the most perfect grapes I’ve seen in my life. Rumbo al Norte is the name they have given to a plot of high-altitude and continental-climate Garnacha in the village of Villanueva de Ávila at almost 1,200 meters in altitude; it’s a spectacular and impossible north-facing plot of only 0.3 hectares on sandy granite soils with abundant silt, one of the most amazing vineyards I know. The natural conditions of the place make for a slow and late ripening of the grapes that, in cooler years like 2018 and even more if the crop was a little larger, deliver full flavors coupled with freshness and elegance, austere and grainy, incredibly textured, they often describe as granite flour. Unfortunately, the price of this wine has skyrocketed in the last vintages. The fermentation followed their modus operandi, full clusters with indigenous yeasts in oak vat with a very soft extraction and a super long maceration, and this year (it’s always depending on the volume) it had an élevage in a 1,000-liter oak vat for some 14 months. This is paler than previous vintages. It epitomizes the character of the place, cold austerity coupled with elegance and nuance. It’s narrow and vertical, in this case More Chambolle than Vosne, with the Garnacha signature, ethereal and full of energy and light. It has gobsmacking balance and silky tannins, with great freshness and all the ingredients for a long life in bottle. Ultra fine, with the soul of Umbrías and a stony character of liquid granite and quartz, spherical but delineated. Simply stunning. 1,037 bottles and 30 magnums produced. It was bottled in March 2020.”
“Phenomenal”
Sierra Cantabria ‘Mágico’, Rioja DOCa 2016 750ML ($749.95) $545 special, 5 bottles in stock now
VinopolNote “Individual Hinged Wooden Box Package”
James Suckling 100 points “A wine with incredible soul and purity, reflecting the land and history. Blackberries, black olives and hot stone and gun metal. Full and layered with incredibly polished and refined tannins. Old bark and mushrooms. It’s like holding an old and special book. Phenomenal. Drink or hold.”
Jeb Dunnuck 98 points “A tiny production, single vineyard release, the 2016 Mágico is based on a field blend of 65% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha, and the rest a mix of permitted varieties, all aged 20 months in new French oak. Its deep, saturated purple color is followed by an exotic bouquet of blackcurrants, blueberries, crushed violets, licorice, and flowery incense. Medium to full-bodied, with incredible purity of fruit, nicely integrated acidity, and fine tannins, it’s another elegant, seamless wine from this estate that builds with time in the glass, has no hard edges, and delivers a massive finish. This gorgeous wine will benefit from 2-4 years of bottle age and keep for 15+ years.”
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First Offers from Bordeaux, Champagne & the Rhône
Bordeaux
Pre-Arrivals ETA May:
Château Léoville Poyferré, Saint-Julien 2014 750ML ($119.95) $99 pre-arrival special
Antonio Galloni-Vinous 95 points “The 2014 Léoville Poyferré is gorgeous. Dark, sumptuous and ample on the palate, it possesses remarkable depth. Dark cherry, plum, smoke, scorched earth, licorice and menthol all flesh out as this radiant, deeply expressive wine shows off its considerable pedigree. The 2014 is going to need time to fully come together, but it is super-impressive. Tasted two times.”
Neal Martin-Wine Advocate 93+ points “The 2014 Léoville-Poyferré was surprisingly backward and tight on the nose (usually it is the most expressive and generous Léoville in its youth). The precision and focus is intact, but it is broody and sultry at the moment. The palate is medium-bodied with firm structure, which suggests that it has turned volte face since its opulent showing in barrel. Overall, this comes across as perhaps a slightly more austere and masculine wine from Didier Cuvelier, though that is not a criticism, just an observation. I would like to see a little more persistence on the finish, but the tidings bode well for this mercurial and fascinating Léoville-Poyferré. I can see it improving with bottle age, hence the plus sign against my score.”
Château Léoville Poyferré, Saint-Julien 2015 1.5L ($279.95) $249 pre-arrival special
Jeb Dunnuck 97 points “The 2015 Léoville Poyferré is cut from the same cloth as the 2016, yet is more sexy, rounded and opulent. Notes of cassis, licorice, crushed rocks, lead pencil shavings and graphite all emerge from this unctuous, ripe, pedal-to-the-metal beauty that’s absolutely loaded with fruit and texture. Reminding me of the 2003, yet only fresher, don’t miss this beauty. It should be drinkable in 3-4 years and last for 3-4 decades.”
Antonio Galloni Vinous 97 points “The 2015 Léoville-Poyferré is spectacular. Inky, dense and explosive, the 2015 possesses off the chart richness, with soft contours, no hard edges and exceptional balance. All the elements are simply fused together. inky blue/purplish fruit, chocolate, new leather, blueberry jam, exotic spice and violet notes are all beautifully delineated throughout. Fresh, vibrant and totally sexy, Léoville-Poyferré is one of the wines of the vintage. Don’t miss it! Tasted two times. “
Champagne
Pre-Arrival ETA May:
Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut, Champagne 2007 750ML ($179.95) $125 pre-arrival special
James Suckling 98 points “This is a step up from the linear and fresh 2006. It shows subtle depth and power with a dense block of vivid fruit that’s highlighted with lemon zest, green apples and hints of white peaches. Just the right amount of praline and nuts on the nose. Fine and tight bead give the Champagne a luxurious mouthfeel. One for now or the cellar. Drink or hold.”
The Champagne Guide 98 points “”(disgorged October 2015) After the might of 2005 and 2006, there is a pretty elegance to 2007 that I find thrillingly compelling, and it’s captured in pinpoint detail in this enchanting Comtes. The theme here is fragrant finesse of youthful lemon blossom, touched with delightful notes of brioche, marzipan and almond. The chalk mineral signature of Comtes rumbles with the ancient geological history of the finest grand crus of the Côtes des Blancs. Still pale in hue at a decade of age, this is my style of Comtes. Turn down the lights and the music and pour it for the one you love most.”
Rhône
Pre-Arrivals ETA May:
M. Chapoutier Le Clos, Saint-Joseph 2016 750ML ($179.95) $159 pre-arrival special
Wine Advocate 97 points “Looking even better than it did last year, now that it’s in the bottle, Chapoutier’s 2016 Saint-Joseph Le Clos is impressive indeed. Classy notes of crushed stone and pencil shavings are joined by floral hints of violets, plus ripe cassis on the nose. Full-bodied, rich and concentrated, it comes across as dense yet not heavy (does that make any sense?), finishing with silky tannins and a tremendously long finish. It’s a tour de force in Saint-Joseph, nearly equal in quality to Chapoutier’s parcel-selection wines from across the river in Hermitage.”
Jeb Dunnuck 95-97+ points “Much more mineral-driven, the 2016 Saint Joseph Le Clos comes from an early ripening parcel located south of Tournon, high up on the granite slopes overlooking the Rhône River. It sports an inky color as well as a liquid rock-like character in its black and blue fruits, pepper, bay leaf and violet bouquet. Rich, full-bodied, incredibly pure, and sensationally concentrated, with fine, fine tannin and a great finish, it’s a beautiful wine that could match what was achieved in 2015.”
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Desmeure Domaine des Remizières Hermitage Cuvée Emilie, Rhône 2010 750ML ($99.95) $79 pre-arrival special
Robert Parker 96 points “A profound blockbuster is the 2010 Hermitage Cuvée Emilie. An opaque purple color, unctuous texture, and sweet perfume of creme de cassis, blackberry liqueur, acacia flowers and graphite are all found in this enormously endowed, full-bodied, viscous, thick wine. It is nearly over-the-top in richness, but everything comes together with no bitterness, astringency or heaviness. The oak is well-concealed because of the wine’s extravagant fruit and glycerin. This is a 25-year Hermitage.”
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Smart Buys from Germany
All $24 – $28
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Organic!
Müller-Catoir Haardt Weißburgunder Trocken, Pfalz 2017 750ML ($27.95) $24 special, 5 bottles in stock now
Stuart Pigott – jamessuckling.com 93 points “Very creamy and silky, but without a hint of fat, this is a very polished pinot blanc with underplayed power. Delicate white-peach and pear aromas. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.”
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“Dynamic and graceful, this is a smashing deal for grand cru fruit!”
Weingut Leitz Rüdesheimer Riesling Trocken, Rheingau 2018 750ML ($29.95) $24 special, 12 bottles in stock now
Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 90 points “The 2018 Rüdesheimer Riesling Trocken offers a beautiful bouquet that intertwines the crystalline and slightly smoky/herbal terroir aromas of Rüdesheim with perfectly ripe and elegant Riesling aromas. On the palate, this is a full-bodied, fresh, lush and elegant yet precise, salty-crystalline and piquant Riesling whose long and intense, well-balanced and concentrated finish balances the 13% alcohol with great ease. This 2018 reveals exceptional purity, tension and finesse as well as complexity and persistent expression. Leitz’s 2018 Rüdesheimer “GGs” will be released later this year, but his Rüdesheimer village wine is more than just a small consolation. It’s pretty spectacular! Tasted from AP 12 19.”
Importer note “Whereas Eins Zwei Dry is the “estate” dry riesling, the Rüdesheimer is the “village- level” dry wine for Leitz. The fruit is sourced entirely from Drachenstein—a Grosse Lage parcel at the height of the Rüdesheimer Berg. This wine is declassified and serves to bridge the entry level Eins Zwei Dry to the single vineyard wines. Dynamic and graceful, this is a smashing deal for grand cru fruit!”
VinopolNote “Sustainable, Fair ‘N Green”
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“This manages to combine richness and high ripeness with brightness and transparency”
Kruger-Rumpf Münsterer Dautenpflänzer Riesling Spätlese, Nahe 2018 750ML ($29.95) $24 special, 22 bottles in stock now
David Schildknecht-Vinous 92 points “An effusively fruity nose anticipates the generously juicy peach and nectarine that feature on a glossy palate, with a hint of almond paste as well as pronounced sweetness tugging things in a confectionary direction. Happily, an influx of limey brightness and tangy fresh-fruitedness serve for welcome pushback as well as animation and refreshment on a long-lasting finish. As with others of the best Kruger-Rumpf 2018s, this manages to combine richness and high ripeness with brightness and transparency to stony inflections. That juxtaposition may have been underscored in the case of this Spätlese by its having been raised partly in cask and partly in tank.”
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A staff favorite
Kruger-Rumpf Scheurebe Spätlese, Nahe 2019 750ML ($29.95) $24 special, 8 bottles in stock now
VinopolNote “Smokey, exotic and subtley sweet, this Scheurebe is charming and delicious. A staff favorite.”
Importer note “Completely from Dautenpflänzer old vineyards planted in the 50s. Quarzite soil. Average age of vines: 35 years.”
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A cellar pick
Dr. H. Thanisch Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Kabinett, Mosel 2017 750ML ($29.95) $24 special, 4 bottles in stock now
Stephan Reinhardt – Wine Advocate 92 points “The 2017 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Kabinett is fine and intense on the clear, elegant and floral-flinty nose. Lush and salty-piquant on the crystalline palate, this is a mouth-filling and textured Kabinett that probably includes some percentage of botrytis berries, which give it juicy, charming and mouth-filling character. The sweetness is round and fruity rather than sweet. It’s lovely to enjoy today, yet I’d recommend cellaring the 2017 for another 5-10 years. Tasted from AP 13 18 in March 2019.”
Mosel Fine Wines 90 points “The 2017er Bernkasteler Badstube Kabinett displays a subtly fruity and floral aromatic profile with great complexity and finesse on the nose. Notes of whipped cream, candied grapefruit, yellow peach, pear and herbs are wrapped into delicately cream and light sweetness on the palate. The finish is light-weighted and delicately creamy. 2025-2037.”
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“This will perform brilliantly at table as well as in your cellar”
Weingut Alfred Merkelbach Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Spätlese Halbtrocken #7, Mosel 2016 750ML ($29.95) $24 special, 20 bottles in stock now
David Schildknecht – Vinous 92 points “I harbor fond memories of halbtrocken Merkelbach Würzgartens long past, so perhaps you’ll think I was overly influenced simply by having once again seen those words on a bottle of their Riesling. But its contents certainly left me wishing that they would let this happen in their cellar more often. A classic Würzgarten nose of fresh strawberry and lime adds hints of more Erden-typical tarragon and sassafras. Subtly silken in feel, this finishes buoyant and lusciously long, with animating, bright primary juiciness and transparency to shimmering impingements of stones and mineral salts. Incidentally, it weighs in at a mere 10% alcohol, a reminder that the Merkelbachs pick for Spätlese at must weights that most of today’s top Mosel growers would deem appropriate for Kabinett. A prime example of what I call “hidden sweetness” – residual sugar playing a supportive and catalytic role while not engendering any overt sense of sweetness – this will perform brilliantly at table as well as in your cellar.”
Sustainable, Fair ‘N Green!
Weingut Leitz Rüdesheimer Magdalenenkreuz Riesling Spätlese, Rheingau 2018 750ML ($29.95) $24 special, 22 bottles in stock now
Importer note “Further east and upstream of the Klosterlay is the Magdalenenkreuz. The name translates to “the cross of Mary Magdalene,” named after a red sandstone cross that can be found amongst the vines. Here the soils are comprised of sandy loam—fatter and ideal for ripe expression; the riesling grown here is always textured, opulent and forward. Though the wine is of Spätlese quality it perceivably drinks more like a Kabinett.”
Winery note “The vineyard “Rüdesheimer Magdalenenkreuz” is located to the east of our town where you will find the gentle hills with profound loess and loam soils, good content of chalk that secure even in hot years a sufficient water supply. The vines are bearing enduring and fruitful wines. The Magdalenenkreuz Spätlese has a savoury nose with fruity hints of ripe apples and pear; as well as an exotic trace of grapefruit, orange and quince.The perception of taste creates in conjunction with the exceptional play of fruit and acidity a very unique exaltation and withal an intense finish.Beside these expressive scents of fruit, subtle mineral hints are joining this sappy Riesling-variation. The Spätlese shows how simple a Riesling is able to compete with substantial dishes and offers a wealth of possible combinations. We enjoy this wine with Curry, peach slices, with a condimental Biryani-chicken, or on its own with dark chocolate.”
Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate “The first Rieslings of the very dry and warm as well as early 2018 vintage are also promising and stunningly precise and elegant due to the conditions of the vintage that brought nothing but perfectly ripe and healthy grapes. Leitz pressed the grapes in fractions, so he was able to keep the acidity fine and fresh even though it is naturally lower than in 2017… Doubtlessly, Leitz is one of the region’s best Riesling producers. Having said that, he is also one of the best Riesling ambassadors in the wine world, with regular tastings in the US as well as in Norway, two of his most important export markets.”
VinopolNote “Sustainable, Fair ‘N Green”
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A cellar pick from a staff favorite producer
Peter Lauer Ayler Kupp Faß 2 Riesling Trocken, Mosel 2017 750ML ($31.95) $26 special, 16 bottles in stock now
Stuart Pigott-jamessuckling.com 91-92 points “Although this is a serious Saar riesling for the acid hounds, it has plenty of smoky and candied-citrus character. Generous substance, too. Better from 2019.”
John Gilman 90 points “The 2017 vintage of Faß 2 comes in at 12.5 percent octane and is quite dry, as mentioned above, at just over one gram of sugar. The wine is youthful, but shows lovely promise, with the nose wafting from the glass in a mix of pink grapefruit, orange peel, plenty of smokiness, a fine base of slate, wild yeasts and a nice hint of Saar herb tones in the upper register. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied, racy and nascently complex, with great focus, cut and grip and a long, poised and perfectly balanced finish. This will need a year or two longer in the cellar to start to stir than the 2018 version, but it too is going to be an excellent bargain. 2023-2055. 90.”
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Complex, focused & classy
Weingut Keller Grüner Silvaner Trocken, Rheinhessen 2019 750ML ($34.95) $26 special, 26 bottles in stock now
John Gilman 90+ points “The 2019 Grüner Silvaner Trocken from Weingut Keller comes in at 12.5 percent alcohol in this vintage, so this is a bit riper than the lovely 2018 version. This bottling is also now focusing more and more on old vines, so that they are now fully forty years of age going into this cuvée. The wine offers up a lovely, precise bouquet of sweet grapefruit, green apple, an almost crystalline base of chalky soil tones, lemongrass, a touch of wild yeasts and a topnote of orange blossoms. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and rock solid at the core, with racy acids, excellent focus and grip and a long, vibrant and very classy finish. This is outstanding this year! While it is approachable already (and probably, local winery customers have probably already drunk up their yearly allocation with the white asparagus crop), I would be inclined to give it a couple of years in the cellar before opening it, as this wine is coiled like a spring and will blossom beautifully with just a bit of bottle age! 2022-2040+.”
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Classic mineral-drenched Riesling
Carl von Schubert Maximin Grünhäuser Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett, Mosel 2017 750ML ($31.95) $27 special, 29 bottles in stock now
Stuart Pigott-jamessuckling.com 93 points “Ripe and juicy, but it is also very clean and crisp. You can drink this now, but it will give so much more from 2019. Right now, the herbal notes are only hinted at. A long and dry mineral finish.”
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Racy, tart & salty
Weingut Jos. Christoffel Jr. Christoffel-Prum Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett, Mosel 2016 750ML ($34.95) $27 special, 12 bottles in stock now
Mosel Fine Wines 91 points “This offers a beautiful nose of pear, citrusy fruits, brown sugar and herbs. The wine proves quite racy on the palate as lively acidity provides the frame to fresh and zesty fruits. The finish is refreshingly tart, with a nice salty side. Still a bit wild, the wine will gain in presence and elegance at maturity. 2023-2036.”
David Schildknecht-Vinous 90 points “Alluring, site-typical scents of lemongrass, sassafras and tangerine set the stage for a lusciously juicy, invigoratingly tangy, zesty palate impression. The finish is unabashedly sweet but so brightly juicy that it refreshes and calls forth the next sip. The vintage’s A.P. #1, this represents its first-picked fruit. But even then, we’re talking mid-October, so early picking goes only a little way toward explaining the modest degrees Oechsle on which this alcoholically featherweight bottling is founded. The vines themselves and how they are handled – certainly including the yields Christoffel permits – are important factors.”
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“Intense and sweet yet elegant”
Markus Molitor Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett GK, Mosel 2018 750ML ($31.95) $28 special, 36 bottles in stock now
Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 92+ points “The 2018 Riesling Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Kabinett (Golden Capsule) is intense and aromatic on the nose that displays a concentrated and ripe stone-fruit aroma with reductive, sulfuric notes. Round and silky on the palate, this is a crystalline, salty-piquant and structured Kabinett with intense and sweet yet elegant fruit and a promising long and grippy finish. Tasted at the domain in September 2020.”
Mosel Fine Wines 92 points “The 2018er Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett (Golden Capsule) offers a beautiful nose made of white peach, melon chalky minerals, and some slightly earthy spices. The wine is nicely mellow but delicately zesty on the palate, and leaves a nicely playful balance of a great light-footed Auslese from the 1990s in the long finish. A touch of apricot blossom adds a rounder side in the after-taste of this gorgeous fruity-styled wine in the making. 2028-2048”
Stuart Pigott-jamessuckling 91 points “Lots of pear and ripe yellow-apple fruit here and, on the palate, there’s terrific freshness to balance the generous, unfermented-grape sweetness. Long, clean finish. A hint of apple core pulls the brakes on a bit. Drink or hold.”
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When you’re ready to pick up, just park in our lot,
give us a call, & we’ll bring your order to your car.
(If another adult is picking up for you,
please let us know their name when placing your order.)
www.vinopoliswineshop.com
info@vinopoliswineshop.com
503-223-6002
New Arrival from Mount Eden Vineyards
The wines of Mount Eden Vineyards are legendary within the context and history of California. Winemakers and owners Jeffrey and Ellie Patterson continue to make some of the highest quality California wines in the iconic style that made these wines famous—a rarity in an age when even “classic” producers produce riper and riper bottlings every year.
In Stock Now:
Mount Eden Vineyards Wolff Vineyard Chardonnay 2018 750ML ($29.95) $21.90 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Erin Brooks-Wine Advocate 94 points “The 2018 Chardonnay Wolff Vineyard from Edna Valley is pure, energetic and fresh this vintage. The nose is lovely, loaded with floral perfume and ripe citrus fruits. The palate is silky and expansive with a shimmering mineral character and a long, pure finish. It improved over the two to three days it was open and will benefit from a long decant. 4,256 cases produced.”
Love California wine? We have over 75 different options in stock. Shop the entire selection, including staff favorites like Arnot-Roberts, Pax, Ridge Vineyards and more, on our web store now.
Collector’s Corner
Castello di Ama: Chianti First Growth
Castello di Ama: Chianti First Growth
Castello di Ama has emerged as a true First Growth of Chianti. Modern and focused on quality in both the vineyard and in the cellar, Castello di Ama makes rich, textural wines that rival the most famous names in Tuscany. One notable signal of Castello di Ama’s commitment to quality has been their championing of the new Chianti Gran Selezione DOCG. A level above Riserva, the designation requires longer aging and is designed to let producers highlight their tip-top wines from Sangiovese. Castello di Ama’s La Casuccia is the one we’re highlighting today, along with their 2016 L’Apparita Merlot.
First, the 2016 La Casuccia is another stunner from Castello de Ama’s collection of Gran Selezione bottlings. Full-bodied, rich and surprisingly silky for this stage in its young life, this is really special stuff. If you haven’t yet been convinced of the merits of Chianti’s Gran Selezione designation, this bottle is sure to win you over.
As for the 2016 L’Apparita Merlot, it represents everything we love about modern Tuscan wine. Unapologetically international in style, it has critics raving. Antonio Galloni described it as “a breathtaking, riveting wine that captures all the potential of the vintage” and “wonderfully complete and magnificently beautiful” while rewarding it a perfect 100-point score.
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Castello di Ama Vigneto La Casuccia,Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2016 750ML ($219.95) $179 special, 18 bottles in stock now
Antonio Galloni 97 points “The 2016 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Vigneto La Casuccia is rich, sensual and inviting, as it so often is. The addition of Merlot to Sangiovese yields a Chianti Classico built on textural resonance, with silky tannins, soft curves and tons of sheer allure. The 2016 won’t be ready to drink anytime soon, but it is unquestionably a great wine in the making. Succulent dark cherry, red plum, menthol, licorice, cloves and new oak infuse the creamy, voluptuous finish.”
Kerin O’Keefe-Wine Enthusiast 97 points “Mature black-skinned berry, rose, tilled soil and a balsamic whiff of eucalyptus shape the nose. The bright, elegant palate has energy, tension and depth, delivering ripe wild cherry, red plum, licorice and crushed botanical herb. Taut, fine-grained tannins lend polished support while fresh acidity keeps it balanced. A gorgeous wine. Drink through 2031.”
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 96 points “From the small vineyard facing Castello di Ama from the north, the 2016 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Vigneto la Casuccia shows a dark and hearty side with rich fruit that flows steadily from the bouquet. Like the other new releases from this iconic estate, this wine shows a pretty earthy note that is particularly well defined and fine-tuned in this vintage. The fruit is broad, thick and horizontal. This is a Sangiovese painted with broad brush strokes. It’ll stand another decade or two, or open it sooner with a pappardelle al cinghiale.”
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The average price nationally is $197
The average price nationally is $197
Castello di Ama L’Apparita Toscana IGT, Tuscany 2016 750ML ($289.95) $249 special, 3 bottles in stock now
Antonio Galloni 100 points “The 2016 L’Apparita, 100% Merlot, is a breathtaking, riveting wine that captures all the potential of the vintage. In this vintage, L’Apparita is especially silky and refined. Layered, perfumed and wonderfully nuanced, L’Apparita is simply epic. Lavender, mint, sage, spice, new leather and cloves develop with time, but more than anything else, L’Apparita is wonderfully complete and magnificently beautiful.”
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 99 points “The 2016 L’Apparita is a standout wine. A true symbol of the vintage, the wine shows the classic lines and extreme precision we can expect from 2016, with the plump, ripe generosity of the Merlot grape (when farmed in the right hands of course). The wine is profound, rich and beautifully concentrated with power but no residual heaviness. I went back to this sample a few times in the 12 hours after I popped the cork, and the wine was more beautiful each time. It offers a profound sense of beauty, harmony and Merlot purity now, and it should evolve slowly and softly in the coming years.”
James Suckling 97 points “Extremely perfumed with violets and crushed raspberries, as well as wet earth and spice. Full body. Linear and chewy with racy tannins and fruit tension. Wild finish. Pure merlot. Needs time to open. Try after 2021.”
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