10/12/15
Bow & Arrow Melon 2014 750ML ($24.95) $18 special
Bow & Arrow Rhinestone Red, Willamette Valley 2014 750ML ($24.95) $21.90 special
A blend of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Gamay Noir in the style of Cheverny.
Domaine Drouhin Laurene Pinot Noir 2012 750ML ($79.95) $66 special
Josh Raynolds–Vinous 93 points “Bright ruby. Heady red and dark fruit liqueur, candied rose, allspice and woodsmoke scents show excellent clarity and a complicating hint of licorice. Palate-staining blackberry and spicecake flavors open nicely in the middle palate, picking up floral pastille and cola nuances and a hint of black tea. Rich and broad but energetic too, finishing with powerful spicy thrust and velvety tannins.” JR
WASHINGTON
Betz Family Winery Besoleil 2013 750ML ($59.95) $49 special
Betz Family Winery Besoleil 2013 1.5L ($119.95) $99 special
Wine Advocate 92 points “Bottled last November, the 2013 Grenache Besoleil has slightly more Syrah, with the final blend being 49% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 16% Cinsault, 9% Mourvedre and the rest Counoise. Aged 11 months in a combination of different sized barrels, 25% being new, it’s a elegant, medium to full-bodied, Provencal-styled effort that has lots of sweet red and black fruits, garrigue and hints of cured meats. It’s a total charmer that will have 10-12 years of overall longevity.” WA
The magnum is the only listing in the USA today!
Betz Family Winery La Cote Rousse Syrah 2013 1.5L ($149.95) $119 special
Wine Advocate 95+ points “Much more mineral driven than the La Serenne release, the 2013 Syrah la Cote Rousse comes all from Red Mountain and is always 100% Syrah. Like the other Syrahs here, it saw 11 months in barrel and won’t be released until the fall of 2015. Exhibiting lots of blackberry, black raspberry, graphite, smoke and crushed rock, it’s beautifully concentrated, has top-notch purity of fruit and a great finish. I love its mid-palate density, and while it has a lot of tannins, they’re nicely integrated into the body of the wine. Give it 2-3 years in the cellar and enjoy bottles through 2033. It should be one of the longest-lived Syrahs in the vintage.” WA
FRANCE-CHAMPAGNE
Moet & Chandon Dom Perignon Brut 2004 750ML ($199.95) $169 special
Case-3 Moet & Chandon Dom Perignon Brut 2004 750ML w/ice bucket ($599.95) $479 special (that’s only $159.67/bottle and includes a Dom Perignon ice bucket!)
Antonio Galloni 96 points “The 2004 Dom Pérignon continues to develop beautifully. A vibrant, focused Champagne, the 2004 clearly reflects the personality of the year. Freshly cut flowers, white peaches and pears are woven together in a Champagne that impresses for its focus and energy. Chiseled saline note support the crystalline finish. I imagine the 2004 will always remain relatively bright and linear, but at the same time, each time I have tasted it over the last two years the 2004 seems to have a little more body and broader shoulders. The 2004 will appeal most to readers who find the 2002 and 2003 too exuberant. There is a lot to like in the glass.” AG
Gaston Chiquet Carte Verte Premier Cru Brut Tradition NV 375ML ($27.95) $24 special
Gaston Chiquet Carte Verte Premier Cru Brut Tradition NV 1.5L ($99.95) $89 special
Stephen Tanzer 91 points “Light yellow. Suave, floral aromas of poached pear, blood orange, melon and honey. A dusty mineral quality adds lift to spicy red berry and citrus fruit flavors. Closes nervy and long, with resonating minerality and a touch of gingerbread.” ST
Stephen Tanzer 92 points “Pale straw. High-pitched aromas of lime and lemongrass, with chalky mineral and floral notes adding complexity. Taut, incisive citrus fruit and mineral flavors show impressive clarity and pick up notes of green apple and honeysuckle with air. Clean and nervy on the mineral-driven finish.” ST
Wine Spectator 91 points “A chalky version, with bright acidity and a lively bead framing hints of pineapple, pastry cream, glazed apricot and fresh ginger. Focused and finely knit.” WS
The next best price is $139.98
Antonio Galloni 90 points “The NV Brut Grande Reserve emerges from the glass with layers of hazelnut, pear, spice and dried flower aromas. This rich, creamy wine impresses for its balance and sheer richness. I loved it.” AG
The average price is $44
100% Grand Cru, 100% Pinot Noir, no dosage
Antonio Galloni 91 points “The NV Brut Nature Silver is naturally a very focused, driven wine given the no-dosage style. This shows wonderful nuance and depth all the way through to the long finish, with bright aromas and flavors but less of the toastiness than some of the house’s other wines. The mousse and finish are both utterly impeccable in their elegance.” AG
The next best price is $36.89
Antonio Galloni 92 points “Clouet’s 2008 Brut Millesime shows quite a bit more tension and focus than the 2007, hardly a surprise given then personality of the vintage. Bright, saline notes frame expressive red fruits, flowers and sweet spices. The 2008 Brut is a gorgeous wine with plenty of appeal today, but it will also develop beautifully in bottle. Stylistically it is less overt than the 2007 but places more emphasis on length. Brut Millesime is mostly Pinot, with 30-40% Chardonnay.” AG
Andre Clouet Grand Cru Brut Rose NV 750ML ($49.95) $39 special
The next best price is $42.89
FRANCE-BEAUJOLAIS
Domaine Marcel Lapierre Morgon 2014 750ML ($31.95) $28 special
Domaine Marcel Lapierre Morgon 2014 1.5L ($79.95) $59 special
VinopolNote: Gamay from 60 year old vines grown in granitic gravel.
Importer note “The Lapierres age their wines on fine lees for at least nine months in oak foudres and fûts ranging from three to thirteen years old. These wines are the essence of Morgon: bright, fleshy fruit with a palatable joie de vivre that was undoubtedly inherited from their creator. In the words of KLWM salesperson Sam Imel, ‘They are meant to be devoured.’”
FRANCE-BORDEAUX
Chateau Aney, Haut Medoc 2005 375ML ($21.95) $19 special
From the importer “The final blend of the wine matches the proportions in which they are planted throughout the thirty hectares of vineyards: 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc, and 3% Petit Verdot. This traditional Haut Médoc is more like what you might remember of the classic Bordeaux styles of the 1960s and 1970s. Not at all cloaked in new wood or over-extracted tannins, Château Aney’s wines have finesse and balance that make them both approachable now and perfect for longer aging. They are a great choice for any cellar.”
FRANCE-RHONE
Jean-Louis Chave Selection Saint-Joseph Celeste Blanc 2012 750ML ($34.95) $29 special
Josh Raynolds 91 points – Vinous “Light gold. Pungent, mineral-laced aromas of dried pear, fig, honey and fennel, with a hint of jasmine in the background. Fleshy and dry on the palate, offering incisive orchard and pit fruit flavors and a touch of waxiness. Smoothly combines richness and vivacity, finishing with firm mineral bite and strong floral persistence.” JR
Chateau Mas Neuf Tradition Blanc 2014 750ML ($19.95) $16 special
Chateau Mas Neuf Tradition Rouge 2013 750ML ($19.95) $16 special
FRANCE-JURA
Domaine des Marnes Blanches Chardonnay Les Molattes 2014 750ML ($31.95) $28 special
Domaine des Marnes Blanches Chardonnay Vieilles Vignes 2013 750ML ($31.95) $28 special
Montevertine Toscana IGT 2012 750ML ($59.95) $49 special
Antonio Galloni 92 points “The 2012 Montevertine offers lovely depth and freshness, even if the mid-weight structure is that of a challenging vintage. Red cherry, plum, tobacco, wild flowers and mint open up in a soft Montevertine that should give up its charms relatively early. The 2012 Montevertine is the perfect choice for readers who need something to drink while some of the more important vintages of Montevertine and Pergole Torte age in the cellar. Given the interest that is sure to surround the 2013s, the 2012 should also be relatively easy to pick up. The 2012 is not a great Montevertine, but it sure is delicious right now.”AG
Vietti Roero Arneis DOCG 2014 750ML ($27.95) $21.90 special
LUIGI GIORDANO LANGHE ROSSO 2014 750ML ($21.95) $18 special
80% Nebbiolo, 10% Dolcetto and 10% Arneis
Giacomo Fenocchio Cannubi, Barolo DOCG 2011 750ML ($59.95) $49 special
Wine Enthusiast 94 points “Aromas of underbrush, scorched earth and ripe black-skinned fruit take center stage on this bold Barolo. The generous palate is already inviting, offering ripe black cherry, crushed black plum, licorice, ground pepper and sweet pipe tobacco. Velvety tannins provide the framework and lend a polished texture. Thanks to the fruit richness and freshness, you’d never guess it contains 15% avb.”
ITALY-OTHER
Contrade di Taurasi Cantine Lonardo Aglianico Rosso Irpinia, Campania 2012 750ML ($24.95) $21.90 special
Ian D’Agata–Vinous 91 points “Dark ruby-red. Pure aromas of red cherry and rose petal, plus a whiff of alcohol on the enticing, aromatic nose. Big, dense and juicy, but with lively acidity providing lift and nicely extending the bright, sweet red cherry and peppery raspberry flavors on the long, suave finish. This strikes me as having been made with extremely ripe grapes but it’s neither cooked nor over the top. A knockout entry-level Aglianico.” ID
SPAIN
Ameztoi Primus Txakoli di Getaria Hondarribi Zuri, Getariako Txakolina 2014 750ML ($27.95) $24 special
Josh Raynolds–Vinous 89 points “(made from vines that are reportedly between 70 and 100 years of age): Bright purple. Primary aromas of boysenberry, cassis, dark chocolate and smoky minerals. Broad, lush and sweet, with aromatic flavors of black and blue fruits and bitter chocolate. A seamless, deep rendition of mencia, with a spine of acidity adding lift and cut to the finish.” JR
The next best price is $14.99
Josh Raynolds–Vinous 92 points “(a blend of old-vines carinyena and garnatxa; aged in French oak): Bright violet color. Aromas of candied red berries, cherry pit, incense and smoky minerals, with a suave floral overtone building with air. Juicy and penetrating on the palate, offering intense bitter cherry and mulberry flavors and hints of licorice and floral pastilles. Shows excellent depth and power on the finish, which is firmed by youthful tannins and given focus by juicy acidity.”
— JR
The next best price is $44.99
‘Terre de Pierre’ is grown on solidified lava which dates back 500,000,000 years. The wine ferments on the lees for a year before aging in wood vats for eight months; it has this lovely little salty air/white flower/lemon rind thing going on which makes me think of a drizzly walk on the beach in your hometown in a good sort of way. I request that you buy at least two: one to drink now and another to hide somewhere and drink a few years down the road: you’ll be glad you did.
New releases and cellar selections!
New Releases and Cellar Selections Arriving Friday, October 16th
Crowley La Colina Vineyard Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley 2010 750ML ($79.95) $66 pre-arrival special
Wine Advocate 90 points “A Crowley 2010 Pinot Noir La Colina – from the eponymous site at 700 foot elevation near the southwestern edge of the Dundee Hills, planted with Pommard and Wadenswil selections – offers tart-edged fresh elderberry accented with nutmeg and blond tobacco on a lean but polished, bright, and downright succulent palate. A sweet, saline mineral suffusion akin to shrimp shell reduction conveys satisfying saliva-inducement to a lingering finish in this deliciously fascinating, in some respects rather white wine-like Pinot Noir that should prove intriguing as well as versatile over at least the next half dozen years.”DS
Crowley Entre Nous Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills 2011 750ML ($39.95) $33 pre-arrival special
The next best price is $35.99
Crowley La Colina Vineyard Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley 2013 750ML ($59.95) $51.90 pre-arrival special
Crowley Pinot Blanc, Willamette Valley 2014 750ML ($17.95) $14 special, 3 bottles available
Winery note “Comprised of Wente and Dijon clones from Four Winds Vineyard this wine demonstrates the undeniable pedigree and personality of this fantastic high elevation and old vine site. Light straw with a hint of green combine with pristine clarity to present this wonderful Chardonnay. The aromatics include slate, anise and pear, with a trace amount of barrel toast. Buoyant acidity frames a lean palate beaming with citrus, mineral and white peach, along with background sweetness provided by lees contact. Clarity and precision highlight this refreshing and versatile Chardonnay.”
Winery note “This is our second release of the Four Winds Chardonnay. This 20-year-old, high-elevation vineyard is ideal for the Chardonnay that we aspire to make: fresh, acid-driven and austere. 2011 harvest was late and cool, and the resulting wine displays bright acidity, low alcohol and full flavor development. The Four Winds selection is 100 percent Wente clone, which for us demonstrates with precision and clarity the essentials of the site. Four Winds is not an overly fruit-driven site, and Wente (vs. Dijon) is not an overly fruit-driven clone, so the match is perfect for creating an expression of pure terroir.”
Crowley Four Winds Vineyard Chardonnay, Willamette Valley 2013 750ML ($44.95) $38 special, 19 bottles available
Winery note “Four Winds is an ideal vineyard site for the fresh, acid driven and austere Chardonnay that we aspire to make. Located high in the foothills of the McMinnville Coast Range, these 20 year old Wente clone vines deliver pristine Chardonnay with personality and restrained elegance.”
The next best price is $38.99
Winery note “This Pinot noir is our flagship blend. The wine is comprised exclusively of Pommard and Wadenswil clone Pinot noir from our best vineyard sites. Each barrel is hand selected resulting in a quintessential Oregon Pinot noir with extreme purity and depth of character.”
Winery note “Gehrts Vineyard (60%), La Colina Vineyard (40%) Dijon clone field blend, Pommard and Wadenswil. Back in the ’90s, when payphones dotted the earth and grunge was king, young Tyson Crowley got a job at Erath, and thus began his love affair with the Dundee Hills. From cellar rat at Erath to cellar master at Archery Summit and assistant winemaker at Cameron, the red clay soils of the Dundee Hills have been a consistent inspiration for Tyson. This wine is a culmination of his 19 years in the Dundee Hills and offers a signature palate of red fruit, earth and spice. Pommard and Wadenswil clones from La Colina and a Dijon clone field blend from Gehrts vineyard give this wine complexity and elegance. Pairs well with flannel and Pearl Jam.”
Winery note “Four Winds Vineyard. 100% Pommard clone. Well, we couldn’t let Four Winds Chardonnay have ALL the fun! After receiving two exceptional vintages of the Chardonnay from this vineyard, we jumped at the opportunity to make wine from the Four Winds Pommard clone pinot noir in 2012, making this our first release! As it is for the Chardonnay, this 22-year-old high-elevation vineyard is ideal for fresh, acid-driven and austere Pinot Noir. Classic Pinot in nature, this wine displays a beautiful ruby color indicative of the high-elevation sedimentary soils, and delivers balanced fruit with texture and acidity. 15-20% whole cluster in the fermentation gives the wine additional aromatic layers and texture. 125 cases made.”
Crowley La Colina Vineyard Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley 2012 750ML ($59.95) $49 special, 4 bottles available
Winery notes: “100% Pommard clone. Barrel aged for 19 months, no new oak. LaColina was our very first vineyard contract in 2005 and we proudly continue to grow our holdings within this beautiful south Dundee Hills site. In addition to being a sentimental favorite of ours, LaColina has quietly become a cornerstone vineyard for the Crowley brand as it continues to deliver the highest quality fruit year in and year out. Farmed and managed by George Hillberry.”
Don’t miss this other under-the-radar Oregon Pinot from Tom Fitzpatrick. We were the first bottle shop to carry his first release last year, the 2012, based on the superb character and complexity when he poured us a taste. It sold out here quickly, but recently garnered a whopping 94 points with Wine Enthusiast. We are pleased to offer their 2013:
Elevee Vineyards Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills 2013 750ML ($47.95) $39 special, 5 bottles available
The average price is $41
We offer flat rate shipping on any size single order / single shipment
-Washington & Idaho for $20,
-and California for $25
These rates do not apply to orders held in storage here for any reason.
Multiple orders consolidated into one shipment do not qualify for flat rate shipping.
Special effects along the Danube
F.X. Pichler Durnsteiner Kellerberg Gruner Veltliner Smaragd, Wachau 2012 750ML ($89.95) $79 special, 12 bottles available
Joel Payne-Vinous 94 points “Unctuous aromas of tropical fruit, spicy tobacco and white pepper. Opulent, juicy apricot extract emerges on the palate, where it’s joined by strong minerality. This rich wine offers a delicate interplay of sweetness and acidity interwoven with a wet stone character. Excellent potential.”
David Schildknecht 94 points “The Pichlers’ 2012 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Kellerberg boasts a luscious pear and apple fruit fundament backed by a lush, glycerol-rich texture, with complementary overtones of honeysuckle and lily of the valley perfume. Yet for all of the richness my aforementioned description implies, this also boasts a remarkable sense of primary juiciness as well as lift, leading to a finish of refined, polished, succulent length, stimulatingly suffused with crushed stone and pungent Szechuan pepper. As another demonstration of how important is the character of an individual vineyard in ways that can’t be captured analytically, this wine is well over 14% in alcohol despite its buoyancy, whereas the corresponding Liebenberg at 13.5% reminds you of its alcohol and lacks levity. “One factor,” observes Lucas Pichler “is that Kellerberg is in the shadow after mid-afternoon while Liebenberg gets sun well into the evening.” Plan to follow this Kellerberg through at least 2025.”
F.X. Pichler Loibner Klostersatz Gruner Veltliner Federspiel, Wachau 2012 750ML ($39.95) $29 special, 3 bottles available
David Schildknecht 91 points “Though harvested around the end of September and in the context of a concerted effort to achieve moderate alcohol, at 12.5% the Pichler 2012 Gruner Veltliner Federspiel Klostersatz is on the border of what would when that name was introduced in1987 have qualified – just – as Smaragd, and made a vintner happy he could announce that on the label. Pungent notes of herbs and lentil sprout translate into a sappy, nutty-vegetal palate presence combining palpable density with considerable buoyancy on a soothingly silken palate. Smoky black tea, crushed stone, and saliva-liberating salinity add to the interest, invigoration and mouthwatering savor of a sustained finish. Lucas Pichler attributes both the surprising degree of levity and the extra measure of depth here vis-a-vis the corresponding Frauenweingarten bottling to the advantages of gravel versus sand. That having been noted and credited, I’m bound to say that the “sandy” Frauenweingarten displays levity, exuberance and charm of its own when one returns to it from a tasting of its ostensible betters. Plan to enjoy this Klostersatz through 2017.”
Joel Payne – Vinous 88 points “Fragrant aromas of yellow apple, tobacco and dill. Juicy and appealing, with crisp acidity providing a crunchy underpinning to the ripe melon, white pepper and wet stone flavors. Fun to drink!”
The average price is $40
F.X. Pichler M Gruner Veltliner Smaragd, Wachau 2012 375ML ($59.95) $49 special, 5 half-bottles available
David Schildknecht 95 points “Pichlers’ 2012 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd M – mainly from Loibenberg, plus bits of Kellerberg, Liebenberg, Kollmutz and Muhlpoint – definitely shows the effect of Lucas Pichler’s decision to harvest earlier in recent years than his father usually did, particularly for this bottling. “I think the result is a bit more elegant,” he suggests, and I agree, however conceptually slippery or overused that word is. “I want something similar in style and quality to the Kellerberg,” he adds, “only not showcasing the character of an individual site but instead the grape variety,” and arguably, I’d add – albeit rather obviously – the synergy possible among various vineyards. Diverse floral perfumes – which then reprise inner-mouth; distilled pit fruits; and intimations of ripe pear and musk melon, all anticipate the silken-textured, lush yet remarkably buoyant and vibrantly interactive palate impression, brown spice-tinged and mingled with crushed stone, piquant fruit pit and white pepper. This misses quite the sheer length and penetration of the Kellerberg, but projects a superbly colorful and dynamic, near-kaleidoscopic complexity seldom equaled among Gruner Veltliners. (If memory serves, this is the first time I’ve rated an “M” Gruner Veltliner superior to the corresponding Kellerberg.) Plan to follow this “M” through at least 2022.”
Joel Payne-Vinous 93 points “Expressive bouquet fascinates with papaya, nougat, woodsmoke, white chocolate and orange zest. A sweet, leesy core of plum is wrapped in layers of green peppercorn, cardamom and orange. Unctuously rich and almost Burgundian in its creaminess, and carrying considerable alcoholic clout, this has the depth and intensity of flavor to carry the style, but I prefer both the Kellerberg and Liebenberg.”
F.X. Pichler Loibner Steinertal Gruner Veltliner Smaragd, Wachau 2012 750ML ($59.95) $41.90 special, 8 bottles available
David Schildknecht 92 points “With his 2012 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Steinertal, says Lucas Pichler, “the aim is to showcase the vineyard, which is a cool site, whereas in Loiben, really, things are (generally) a bit too warm.” Prior to this solo debut – spurred by the acquisition of a second parcel – the Pichlers’ Gruner Veltliner from this site went into their Loibenberg (and “M”). This solo Steinertal projects delightfully luscious and exuberant pear and melon fruit along with saliva-inducing, metaphorically cooling suggestions of stalk celery. A sweet-smoky bite of Szechuan pepper lends invigoration and cut to a juicily protracted finish. A model of elegance and lift allied to fundamentally rich ripeness, it should perform beautifully through at least 2022.”
Joel Payne-Vinous 92 points “Mineral aromas of fresh apricot, mint and citrus zest. Mouthfilling muskmelon flavor is enlivened by a refreshing acid structure, making this appear lighter than it actually is. With mineral salts and wild spices on the back of the palate, this stylish wine is the coolest and most invigorating of the veltliners here.”
The average price is $58
Joel Payne-Vinous 93 points “Ripe pear, snap pea and soft herbal spices on the beautifully nuanced nose. Steely and aristocratic on the palate, showing darker fruits and more acidity than the Loibenberg, with concentrated green mango, yellow plum and celery flavors over a layer of flinty slate. Despite its impressive opulence, this is subtle, precise and pure, probably due to the extreme age of the vineyard.”
David Schildknecht 90 points “A sweetly ripe tropical fruitiness of pineapple and pink grapefruit marks the F. X. Pichler 2012 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Liebenberg, to which a positively sizzling impingement of citrus zest, pineapple core and white pepper lends counterpoint. There is a faintly soapy texture, and the aforementioned sizzle is reinforced in the finish by slightly noticeable (even though analytically only 13.5%) alcohol. Some terroirists (like myself) might anticipate a cooling and dynamic influence from the active lime in this vineyard’s soil, but it isn’t forthcoming. My explanation is that the tendency toward slight shriveling of berries in this site – also, of course, arguably a terroir factor – counteracts any such chalk influence, as well as resulting in a diminished sense of juiciness. All in all, this rich, rather static wine is likely to appeal most before 2017.”
The average price is $67
David Schildknecht 92 points “The Pichlers’ 2012 Riesling Federspiel Burgstall – for more about whose site, consult my issue 197 report – succeeds brilliantly in their attempt to capture levity and refreshment along with interactive complexity. Lemon and white peach tinged with orange rind, crushed stone, almond and peach kernel inform a glossy yet refreshingly juicy not to mention buoyant palate, leading to an entertainingly oscillating finishing exchange of mineral and fruit elements. The combinations of lusciousness with levity; stimulation and soothing; rich ripeness with transparency to nuance, are memorably delicious, and I would not be surprised to find this worth following through at least 2020.”
Joel Payne-Vinous 88 points “Passion fruit, peach and lime make for an enticing bouquet. Bright, clean and crisp, with a refreshing balance and taut structure highlighting its stone and citrus fruit flavors. One more glass, please!”
David Schildknecht 93 points “Pichlers’2012 Riesling Smaragd Steinertal suggests chili as well as Szechuan pepper bite and pungency, allied to rhubarb-like tartness and mouthwatering savor, all enrobed in lusciously ripe, white peach and apple on a plush palate. “This site has an effect a lot like Schutt,” explains Lucas Pichler, “because the eroded stone that form its basis followed the creases and crevices in the hillside that are precisely what conduct cool air down from the woods above the vineyards.” Wafting hints of chamomile and suffusion of crushed stone add to the interest and allure of this refined, long-finishing Riesling that should prove worth following through at least 2022.”
Joel Payne-Vinous 91 points “Cool mango, passion fruit and vineyard peach aromas are laced with flint. Immensely juicy but by no means lacking in finesse, as abundant minerality flows like a mountain stream. Crisp pineapple and mango flavors linger with wet rocks on the long, complex finish. Excellent potential.”
The next best price is $65.98
David Schildknecht 95 points “The Pichlers’ 2012 Riesling Smaragd Kellerberg delivers an enormous concentration of lusciously rich, sweetly ripe white peach, Persian melon, grapefruit and pineapple, mingled with almond cream, blond tobacco and Szechuan pepper. Bittersweet iris perfume wafts throughout this magnificent performance, while the superbly sustained finish introduces a cyanic intensity of fruit pit whose bitterness is tamed and stimulatingly integrated thanks to sheer generosity of fruit and inner-mouth perfume. There were some shriveled berries here, notes Lucas Pichler, which no doubt contribute to the sense of opulence not to mention of sheer ripeness; yet there is only 13.5% alcohol. Plan to follow this beauty through at least 2025.”
Joel Payne-Vinous 93 points “Complex aromas of white peach, lime zest, mandarin orange and apple blossom are still a bit leesy. Tightly knit thanks to vibrant acidity, the rich yellow stone fruit flavors ooze with sweet complexity. Lingers impressively on the back of the palate. Still closed, this riesling has barely begun to sketch its future.”
Fantastic cuvees from the bionic frog
Wine Advocate 96 points “A new cuvee that I absolutely loved from barrel last year, the 2012 Tempranillo La Paciencia Vineyard is brilliantly done and gives up a crazy bouquet of blackberries, black cherries, bouquet garni, roasted meats and dried violets. Full-bodied, seamless and elegant, with silky tannin and fabulous precision and length, it’s slightly more approachable than Cayuse’s Impulsivo, yet should still benefit from 2-3 years of bottle age and evolve for 10-15 years after that. Drink 2017-2032.” WA
Cayuse Vineyards God Only Knows Armada Vineyard Grenache, Walla Walla Valley 2008 750ML ($179.95) $149 special, 1 bottle available
Wine Advocate 94 points “Baron’s 2008 Grenache Armada Vineyard God Only Knows displays delectable scents and luscious palate presence of lightly-cooked strawberry and plum laced with nut oils and shadowed by plum and herb distillates. Seamlessly polished, almost velvety and glycerol-rich as well as sweetly ripe, this, nonetheless, projects a torrent of primary fruit juiciness along with levity and energy. Saliva-inducing salinity along with piquant fruit pit, and iodine accents add riveting counterpoint to a finish of prodigious length that manages to simultaneously sooth and stimulate. I would expect this to reward attention for at least another decade.” WA
Cayuse Vineyards En Cerise Vineyard Syrah, Walla Walla Valley 2008 750ML ($249.95) $219 special, 1 bottle available
Wine Advocate 99 points “The 2008 En Cerise Vineyard Syrah offers up a remarkably complex, sexy perfume that leaps from the glass. Exotic spices, a velvety texture, and a succulent richness on the palate are sublime. It, too, can be enjoyed for a decade or more.”
Wine Enthusiast 98 points “A subtle, complex, utterly distinctive mix of flavors, with opening streaks of butter cookie, then mushroom broth, tightly wound berry fruit, earthy coffee grounds and even darker streaks of espresso and smoke and licorice. It is deeply layered with flavors that just keep piling on. Amazing wine.”
Wine Spectator 96 points “Rich and round, yet amazingly transparent as the cherry, mineral, tar and sassafras flavors expand over the long, expressive palate. This has richness and depth balanced with vibrant acidity, finishing with intensity. Best from 2012 through 2020. 355 cases made.”
Giacomo Borgogno
Great estates of Italy
In 2008, the Boschi family sold the Borgogno winery to Italian entrepreneur Oscar Farinetti, but the winery at its core has remained very much the same. In addition to improvements around the estate, the introduction of a new owner brought to an end any wines made from purchased fruit, allowing the winery to focus on their estate bottlings, including their plots in top Barolo crus. Winemakers and original owners Cesare and Giorgio remained at the winery for several years to oversee the transition, and, starting in 2012, Andre Farinetti completed his oenology studies and took over the helm.Located in prized Barolo territory, the 20 hectare Borgogno estate draws on vines from the surrounding crus of Cannubi, Liste , Fossati, and San Pietro. Winemaking at the estate is the definition of traditional. Vinification follows the formula of long maceration and extended aging in large casks, typically beginning in stainless steel before moving to small oak barrels where the wine is aged for at least 4 years. The winery has recently begun to focus on vinfying each separate parcel to retain the fruit’s integrity and capture the terroir’s identity in their single vineyard bottlings. A calling card for the estate is longevity, they are celebrated for their well- stocked cellar of old wines, and the wines themselves are capable of aging for over 20 years, a treat for any lover of traditional Barolo.
Giacomo Borgogno Wines Available Here Now
Giacomo Borgogno & Figli No Name 2010 750ML ($59.95) $49 special, 11 bottles available
Antonio Galloni 91-93 points “Proprietor Oscar Farinetti continues to bottle one cask of Barolo designated juice as Langhe Nebbiolo No Name in protest to the declassification of one of his wines a few years back. Consumers are the beneficiaries, as the No Name is one of the best wines in the market in its price range. The 2010 bursts from the glass with freshly cut flowers, sweet red berries and spices. A totally seductive wine, the 2010 impresses for its purity, raciness and sheer beauty. Sweet perfumed notes add lift on the finish. Winemaker Andrea Farinetti gave the 2010 18 days on the skins, less than his other Nebbiolos, but that just makes the wine more accessible young. Readers who can find the 2010 No Name should not hesitate. It is a brilliant effort.” AG
Antonio Galloni 90 points “The 2011 Langhe Nebbiolo No Name is a pretty wine to drink now and over the next handful of years. Delicate and medium in body, the 2011 is laced with expressive violets, rose petals, mint and sweet red cherries. Dusty tannins complement the otherwise supple finish.” AG
Giacomo Borgogno & Figli Cannubi 2008 750ML ($179.95) $119 special, 22 bottles available
James Suckling 96 points “A dense, chewy wine with plum and dried fruit character. Lots of mineral, sandy and balsamic character. Full body, ripe tannins and a flavourful finish. Structured and rich. Serious Cannubi. Needs at least three or four years of bottle age.” JS
Antonio Galloni 94 points “Violets, tar, smoke, rose petals, spices and dark fruit are some of the many notes that emerge from the 2008 Barolo Cannubi. An intense, dramatic wine for the year, the 2008 boasts layered fruit and equally thrilling structure, even if at times it is a bit rustic. This is a decidedly burly wine from Cannubi, a vineyard mostly associated with finesse. It will be interesting to see how things come together in bottle. Today, it is the wine’s striking inner perfume that makes me most hopeful for the future.” AG
Giacomo Borgogno & Figli Fossati 2008 750ML ($119.95) $66 special, 22 bottles available
Antonio Galloni 93 points “A mesmerizing wine, the 2008 Barolo Fossati opens with hints of plum, black cherry, menthol, violets and licorice. There is an elusiveness to the Fossati that is marvelous to behold, as the wine seems to constantly change in the glass. Now that it is in bottle, the wine has shut down a bit, but its inner sweetness and perfume are still very much in evidence.” AG
Antonio Galloni 93+ points “Cool veins of bracing minerality form the backbone in Borgogno’s 2008 Barolo Liste. Today, the 2008 is virtually impenetrable, as the vintage and the site have combined to produce a big, powerful Barolo that will require considerable cellaring before it is ready to show all its cards. Still, there is a lot to like here, especially for those who can be patient. Tar, smoke, incense and scorched earth all add gravitas on the close, but with more time in the glass some of the sweeter notes begin to emerge. The 2008 Liste is shaping up to be magnificent.” AG
The next best price is $98.84
James Suckling 95 points “Aromas of sausages, ripe fruit and flowers turn to mushrooms and truffles. Full body, with velvety tannins and a decadent finish. A wine that changes continually in the glass. This is delicious and exciting now. Late release of this wine. Why wait to open and drink this?”
Robert Parker 94 points “The 2006 Barolo Riserva is also impressive with a streamlined and elegant feel enhanced by pretty accents of dried flower, tar, spice, cassis and black pepper. There’s a delicate and mysterious aspect to the wine that keeps your attention focused. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025.”
Wine Spectator 93 points “Dense, vibrant and packed with cherry and raspberry flavors, this red shows eucalyptus, tobacco and leather accents. Tight and resonant, with a lingering aftertaste of fruit, mineral and spice. Best from 2015 through 2032. 1,665 cases made.”
Antonio Galloni 92 points “Smoke, tobacco, licorice, leather, spices and dried cherries all meld together in the 2006 Barolo Riserva. The 2006 spent 6 years in cask, which has dried out the fruit and given the flavors slightly more tertiary nuances. In my view there are very few wines – anywhere in the world – that can support this much time in barrel without losing freshness. Dried cherries, tobacco and earthiness linger on the close.”
Antonio Galloni 92 points “The 2007 Barolo is gorgeous. In keeping with the style of the house, it boasts a considerably firm core of tannin that supports the fruit. There is plenty of 2007 intensity and richness in the glass, but those elements are balanced by the wine’s pure structure and inner tension. The 2007 can be enjoyed young if given some air, and it should drink nicely for a dozen years, if not longer. Even with all the tannin, I don’t see this being an especially long-lived Barolo.” AG
Antonio Galloni 92 points “Borgogno’s 2008 Barolo shows what a beautiful vintage this is. Dark red cherries, plums, tobacco, wild flowers, savory herbs and tobacco are some of the many notes that emerge from the glass. Over the last two years, the 2008 has blossomed beautifully in bottle. This is the best bottle I have tasted so far. The 2008 is a blend of fruit from San Pietro, Bricco delle Viole and Cannubi/San Lorenzo, all in the village of Barolo.” AG
The next best price is $182.34/magnum