6/27/16
Kapcsandy 2014.
Wine Enthusiast 95 points “A fantastic combination of power and finesse, this opens with aromas of under brush, ripe plum, truffle, leather, smoke and a balsamic note. The firm, delicious palate delivers fleshy black cherry, crushed raspberry, cinnamon and mocha. Velvety tannins support the juicy flavors.”
James Suckling 94 points “This is a classy Chianti Classico with lots of structure and depth plus firm tannins and a blueberry, black cherry and cedar character. Compacted and tight. Superb and complex. Lots going on. An excellent follow-through after the outstanding 2010. Give it two to three years to open.”
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New Week – New Arrivals
OREGON
Winery notes: “Diaphanous aromatics of grapefruit, white pepper, and lemon pith, with lingering aromas of sweet pea flower, licorice fern and tarragon from its partial fermentation in Acacia barrels. The palate is lithe but commanding, tethered by wet stone minerality, fresh cut hay and a candied lemon flavor on the palate. The 2013 Gruner Veltliner has clean lines and focus – the perfect wine during those hot summer days or to compliment a spicy dish.”
Johan Vineyards Farmlands Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley 2015 750ML ($21.95) $18.80 special
Grapelive 92+ points “Dag J. Sundby makes some compelling wines, from Norway, Sundby has hit the Oregon wine scene like he’s always been a part of it, and in a short time made a big name for himself along with his winegrower Dan J. Rinke. All the wines are from organic grapes with all of the Johan estate being farmed biodynamic. The main estate Pinot Noir and his Gruner Veltliner are the signature wines, but be sure to check out his fabulous Pet-Nat Sparkling Pinot Noir and maybe the best deal in American wine, the Farmlands Pinot Noir! The 2015 Johan Vineyards “Farmlands” Pinot Noir is made from all biodynamic estate grown grapes, native yeast fermented and spends 9 months in French oak, inspired by the wines of Burgundy and the natural wine movement. It is an unfiltered, unfined Pinot without any additives, no egg whites, no cooper sulfate and no enzymes just natural and pure as can be. The 2015 is rich and detailed with low 13.3% alcohol a beautiful deep color and layers of dark fruit with mineral and spice as well as gentle wood notes. This is impressive stuff and as mentioned one of the best deals in American wine, let alone classy Oregon Pinot Noir with real depth of terroir and character. The layers of plum, black cherry, tangy currant and blackberry fruits dance on the palate in youthful harmony with ripe/sweet silky tannins, bright acidity, a medium body and good length with hints of fennel, cedar, dusty stones and flinty pepper. The smooth textures show the grace and finesse of the winemaking and without question highlights the pleasures of the vintage, which is in many ways similar to the 2014 with its forward style. Drink over the next 2 to 5 years, it’s a beauty.”
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WASHINGTON
Winery note “From stunning Alder Ridge Vineyard overlooking the Columbia River in the Horse Heaven Hills, this Cabernet Franc is the embodiment of pure refreshment. Aromas of raspberry, violets and ground coffee are balanced by a clean minerality that make this a beautiful and delicious wine.”
Cayuse Vineyards Camaspelo, Walla Walla Valley 2011 750ML ($149.95) $119 special
Wine Advocate 95 points “More Cabernet Sauvignon dominated, the 2011 Camaspelo incorporates 20% Merlot and was aged in 50-60% new French oak. One of the few 2011s that has some upside, it offers up a smoke-laced array of black currants, singed herbs, graphite and hints of spring flowers to go with a medium to full-bodied, elegant and seamless character on the palate. Inky purple in color, with fine tannin and a big finish, it’s a smoking Cabernet that will evolve nicely for 15 to 20 years.”
Cayuse Vineyards ‘Widowmaker’ En Chamberlin Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley 2008 750ML ($219.95) $189 special
Wine Enthusiast 96 points “Superb sculpture and definition in this compact and lightly funky evocation of pure Cabernet Sauvignon. The deep, dense, super ripe berry flavors are framed within a bouquet of dried herbs, pepper, mineral, astringent tannins, and a crisp mix of earth, wood and plant flavors. Superb length and ageability.”
Wine Advocate 94 points “The Cayuse En Chamberlain 2008 Widowmaker is an essence of cassis laced with sloe berry as well as floral distillates that would seem remarkable for any wine from Cabernet Sauvignon, let alone when subjected – as was the bottle in question this March – to side-by-side comparison with Baron’s Bionic Frog of the same vintage. There is a remarkable creaminess of texture and sheer melted fondue of tannins here that I wouldn’t have believed possible. Is this seductive Cabernet Sauvignon as complex as the greatest examples of its variety? Hardly, I think. But it finishes with extraordinary length and there are stony and bittersweet herbal nuances as well as a hint of chocolate to parallel its persistent florality and intensely luscious fruit. Look for at least a decade of delight.”
Cayuse Vineyards ‘Widowmaker’ En Chamberlin Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley 2011 750ML ($199.95) $169 special
Wine Enthusiast 97 points “Cellar Selection. This glorious, evocative wine calls up a rich and sensuous catalog of scents and flavors. Black truffle, sea salt, clean earth, fungus, strawberry, liquid rocks, umami, tar…? the words pour out with each sniff and swallow. It’s detailed, substantial and refined, gathering itself for a long, generous, captivating finish. Drink now through 2030.”
Wine Advocate 95+ points “The 2011 The Widowmaker is a beauty. One of the top Cabernet Sauvignons in the vintage, it offers up classic red and black currant fruit, earth, smoked meats and spice to go with a medium to full-bodied, elegant, seamless texture on the palate that carries masses of beautifully polished tannin. Aged 18 months in 50-60% new French oak, it’s a relatively forward vintage for this cuvee (which is the norm for the vintage) that can be enjoyed anytime over the coming 15 years or more.”
Wine Advocate 96+ points “Made by Christophe as a tribute to Cote Rotie and coming from a blend of estate vineyards, the 2012 Syrah Wallah Wallah #4 Special spent 22 months in older puncheons and neutral smaller barrels before being bottled only in Magnum, of which there’s only 2,500 to go around. Hitting 13.6% natural alcohol, its deep ruby, semi-opaque color is followed by fabulous notes of rose petals, incense, violets, leather and sweet raspberry. These flow seamlessly to a full-bodied, supple and elegant Syrah that has no hard edges, integrated acidity and thrilling purity of fruit. Showing more and more tannin with time in the glass, it needs to be forgotten for 4-5 years and will have an easy two decades or more of longevity.”
CALIFORNIA
Wine Enthusiast 96 points “This has a grand array of exotic flinty, meaty, smoky and spicy aromas. The powerful flavors taste a bit restrained at first sip, then unfold and seem to expand on the palate. Pure and brilliant layers of ripe blackberry, smoked herbs and darkest chocolate ride on an elegant texture of fine tannins and supportive acidity. Drink from 2018–2030.”
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Wine Enthusiast 92 points “A bold but well-behaved wine, this is spicy and meaty in aroma, generously layered with flavors of black plums, blackberries and incredibly velvety tannins. The way that the core of delicious fruit is shrouded in thick but soft tannins and threaded with acidity is a marvel. It’s tempting to drink now but lay it down until 2018 if possible.”
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Wine Enthusiast 94 points “This is a big, flavorful wine, luscious in aroma, flavor and texture from the first whiffs of spicy oak and funky earth through saturated blackberry and clove flavors. The texture is both velvety and almost stiff at the same time. Drink now through 2020.”
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Wine Enthusiast 94 points “Focus and precision describe this wine. Subtle aromas of grilled herbs and wood smoke precede dark flavors of just-ripe black cherries and blueberries. A sleek texture of firm tannins and refreshing acidity gives a lot of personality. It is medium to full bodied, and will only get better with time. Best after 2020.”
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Wine Enthusiast 95 points “Built for aging, this tightly wound, elegant and yet grand wine is sure to develop more nuances and smoothness with time. It smells enticingly like cedar, tobacco and dark chocolate-covered blueberries, yet retains a firmness and reserve that doesn’t let those melt into richness on the palate quite yet. Store this confidently in a cool place and enjoy it 2020–2025.”
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FRANCE-CHAMPAGNE
Winemaker’s note: Biodynamic, hand-harvested. Vinified exclusively in enameled steel tanks. Made from the majority of the 2006’s harvest. Wonderful effervescence with very fine bubbles. Bright and brilliant gold in colour. The nose is fresh and reminiscent of white flowers (hawthorn, acacia). After agitation, it reveals very delicate aromas of floral-flavoured honey and spice bread. Palate : A champagne with a crisp initial impact on the palate, giving way to rich and generous floral notes, enhanced by a touch of liquorice. The dosage is understated and perfectly integrated, thus allowing the true essence of the wine to come to the fore. This finish is exuberant with a freshness accentuated by citrus aromas (lemon and grapefruit). Extra brut; 60 % de Pinot Meunier, 30 % de Pinot noir, 10 % de Chardonnay.
Francoise Bedel L’Ame de la Terre Extra Brut Millesime, Champagne 2004 750ML ($99.95) $79 special
Winemaker’s note: Vinified in enameled steel tanks and oak barrels. Nose : Ripe and mature on the nose with candied fruits and dried apricots. After aeration, it reveals very delicate aromas of santalwood, cinnamon and orange tree. Palate : It is full and round on the palate, with great vivacity. The finish is exuberant with honey and gingerbread aromas. Its right dosage gives the impression of balance. Biodynamically-farmed and hand-harvested; Brut. 90 % de Pinot Meunier, 7 % de Pinot noir, 3 % de Chardonnay.
Francoise Bedel & Fils Cuvee Dis Vin Secret Brut, Champagne NV 750ML ($79.95) $69 special
Josh Raynolds–Vinous 92 points “Light, bright yellow. Pungent, highly aromatic bouquet evokes peach nectar, poached pear, vanilla and honeysuckle. Deeply pitched orchard and pit fruit flavors show very good intensity and lift, picking up spiciness with air. Finishes on a suave floral note, with impressive focus and length.” 95 % de Pinot Meunier, 5 % de Chardonnay.”
Francoise Bedel & Fils Extra Brut, Champagne NV 375ML ($31.95) $26.60 special
90% Meunier, 10% Pinot Noir
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FRANCE-ROSE
VinopolNote: A light, crisp summery Gamay rose from a well-regarded Muscadet producer.
Jean-Paul Picard Sancerre Rose 2015 750ML ($24.95) $19 special
Importer note “100% Pinot Noir, from vines 15 to 20 year old. Soil: Clay/ Limestone. Jean-Paul Picard makes a Pinot Noir rosé that is every bit as compelling as his Sauvignon Blanc – unabashedly purist in style, this wine exhibits the pure essence of Pinot Noir: strawberry and raspberry fruit, chalky minerals, earthy counterpoints to the fruit, and vivid acidity. The rosé you will want to be sipping when summer sunsets are on the horizon. Pairs well with grilled meats.”
Domaine Isle Saint Pierre Rose, IGP Bouches-du-Rhone 2015 750ML ($14.95) $11.90 special
Case-12 Domaine Isle Saint Pierre Rose, IGP Bouches-du-Rhone 2015 750ML ($149.95) $119 special (that’s only $9.92/bottle!)
Importer note “The rosé harvest undergoes pellicular maceration with complete control of process timing, producing rosé wines, exclusively from free-run juice, which are at their best of color and bouquet.”
FRANCE-BURGUNDY
Vinopolnote: From a south-facing clay-limestone vineyard with typical Kimmeridgien subsoil, which delivers the intensity of Chablis Premier Cru. Peach, mango, and white flowers form the bouquet, while the palate is minerally and rich.
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Vinopolnote: From the cool, clay-limestone climats of Les Noyers Brets, Les Petits Noizerots, and les Reuchaux. On the nose are white flowers and lime, while the palate is rich and mineral, with a savory finish.
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Vinopolnote: From the prestigious Charlemagne vineyard on the steep Corton hill, where the soils are white with calcareous marl. Very floral on the nose, while very tense and with good minerality on the palate. One of the world’s most profound white wines, demanding cellar time before offering its true beauty.
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“The Gevrey Chambertin is very forward and expressive with red organic fruit and the classic Pacalet spices cinnamon and all spice. On the palate forward, harmonious and very drinkable. Not a big wine but a lovely Gevrey village that will provide a lot of pleasure over the next years.”–Steen Ohman, winehog.org
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“The Nuits-Saint-Georges village is a step up in concentration. The nose offer red expressive fruit .. very forward and transparent. On the palate juicy and airy .. quite lightfooted for a NSG. Will provide fine drinking … but perhaps lacking a bit of weight compared to the previous vintages.”–Steen Ohman, winehog.org.
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“The Pommard village is a bit more austere than the expressive Gevrey village. In the nose red and dark berry fruit, pure and transparent with hints of cinnamon and white peppar. On the palate more serious and weighty than the Gevrey, with more tannins and structure. A lovely Pommard village … will offer delightful drinking.”–Steen Ohman, winehog.org
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Vinopolnote: Aux Argillas lies on the north border of the town of Nuits-Saint-Georges, where the soil contains higher amounts of clay, hence the name, plus fossilized oysters. The wines are sturdy yet elegant, showing dark berries like blackberry and cassis, plus the rich tannins that characterize Nuits-Saint-Georges.
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“The Echezeaux 2014 from Pacalet is very forward compared with the same wine in the previous vintages.. The bouquet offer expressive organic red berry fruit – with lovely spicy notes of violets and peony rose. On the palate layers of airy red berry fruit – forward and quite openly knit. It’s not a powerful wine, but it has a lovely energy and intensity from the juicy fruit and the expression of terroir. A fine Echezeaux in the making.”–Steen Ohman, winehog.org
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“The Clos de Vougeot is another new terroir in the Pacalet lineup. The bouquet offer a quite classic expression of the weighty terroir – combined with the organic style of Maison Pacalet. The weighty red and dark fruit in the nose integrates well with the expressive and spicy style offering cinnamon, violets and allspice. On the palate same story … the lightfooted and energetic style really presents the virtues of Clos de Vougeot. The rather dense fruit of the terroir becomes almost energetic in the hands of Pacalet … and unfolds into a vibrant version of this famous wine. While this is a quite forward wine … the tannins suggest that it’s build for cellaring .. so best to keep for a decade or so.”–Steen Ohman, winehog.org
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Domaine Ghislaine Barthod Bourgogne Les Bons Batons Rouge 2013 750ML ($49.95) $39 special, 6 bottles available
“Outstanding top value. A very pretty nose is comprised of various red berry scents along with notes of plum and violets. There is good verve to the racy and attractively intense middle weight flavors that display only a touch of finish rusticity. This is a very fine effort for its level and worth your attention.”—Burghound
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Burghound 90-92 points “This is also moderately reduced but not so much that it should be a concern going forward. There is focused and controlled power to the medium weight flavors that possess an abundance of mouth coating sap, all wrapped in a delicious if entirely serious finish. Beaux Bruns is always a more structured Chambolle and this version is consistent with the terroir.”
FRANCE-LOIRE
Chenin/Pineau d’Aunis from 25+ year old vines grown in clay & flint soil.
Importer note “Golden straw color. Apple-y with some hints of applesauce or baked apples in the finish, but not at all rustic and the bubbles are quite fine. There is not a lot of aroma to the nose, but the mousse is lovely and not at all aggressive. Aromas are baked apple with key lime pie. Very clean. For the price, this is an incredibly well-made Methode Traditionelle. Some nice yeasty notes in the finish with apple pie notes, cloves and dried apples in the finish. Matured on flint and clay terroir, Chenin berries here give a golden wine with an intense nose of yellow fruit and pineapple. Fresh attack of exotic fruits, is the prelude to a large palate, fat and good length. As it is already substantial, this well-structured wine can age a couple of years yet. Everything is done in house and by hand, including riddling on pupitre and making the dosage, which is made with wine from the domaine and liquid sugar cane.”
Domaine Brazilier Methode Trad Brut Rose NV 750ML ($21.95) $18 special
Pineau d’Aunis from 25+ year old vines grown in chalky limestone soil.
Importer note “The color is a soft pink tinged with orange. Elegant nose of intense peppery notes, along with discrete fruity scents. After a fresh attack, mouth displays a remarkable and persistent aromatic complexity, spices mingling harmoniously with ripe fruit. They use mechanical riddling and disgorge by a machine that does not freeze the neck of the bottle, so it is considered a more traditional method of disgorging, more like hand disgorging. Dosage is 3 grams of sugar.”
FRANCE-RHONE
Josh Raynolds–Vinous 91 points “Deep red. Vibrant, spice-accented raspberry, cherry and floral pastille aromas are complicated by hints of star anise and smoked meat. Supple and open-knit, offering juicy red fruit and spicecake flavors plus a deeper suggestion of licorice pastille. Plays power off elegance smoothly, showing no excess fat. A refreshing jolt of peppery spices adds lift and cut to the persistent finish.” JR
Philippe Pacalet Cornas, Rhone 2014 750ML ($99.95) $79 special, 24 bottles available
VinopolNote: A new addition to the Pacalet line-up, Cornas is by law 100% Syrah. Rich and intense, it yields to bottle ageing. Ripe dark fruit and a powerful finish are a few of the pleasures offered by this wine.
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FRANCE-PROVENCE
Grapelive 91 points “Clos Cibonne’s entry level Rose, the Tentations Cotes de Provence, is a beautiful pink wine that is meant and is easy to drink young and fresh with bight fruit, mineral and dry crispness. Made mostly from Grenache and Cinsualt, it also has some of the rare Tibouren, Provence’s ancient native varietal that graces the estate’s upper level Clos Cibonne bottlings and that can age decades as both Rose and as a pale red wine. The 2015 Cibonne Tentations Rose Coptes de Provence starts with lively red citrus, tart cherry and cool watermelon along with a hint of lavender, wet shale, strawberry and mineral spice. This is very steely and refreshing stuff with good acidity giving a balanced play of sweet, sour and savory elements making it a wonderful summer pink to enjoy over the next year or so. If you want really sexy and thought provoking pink, be sure to check out the lees aged Clos Cibonne Tibouren Rose Tradition, usually a year behind in release, these wines make you rethink your approach to Rose! But for now and lots of fun, don’t miss the 2015 Tentations Rose, it is one of the best vintages I can remember from Cibonne!”
Clos Cibonne Cotes de Provence Cuvee Tradition Rouge 2015 750ML ($29.95) $24 special
Winery note “This relatively new cuvee, its first vintage dating from 2009, is the result of the obstinacy of a friend and client of the family since the 1970s. Bright ruby-red color, generous on the nose with red berry and spicy aromas, silky, elegant and elicate. Delicious with a veal roast and chanterelles. 90% Tibouren, 10% Grenache.”
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FRANCE-ROUSSILLON
Case-12 Domaine de L’Edre Cotes du Roussillon Villages 2013 750ML ($549.95) $449 special (that’s only $37.42/bottle and the lowest listed price in the USA today!)
Wine Advocate 95 points “One of the wines of the vintage is the 2013 Cotes du Roussillon Villages Domaine de l’Edre. While this cuvee had a rustic edge in the past, today it’s incredibly polished and pure, with brilliant aromatics of cassis, black raspberries, licorice, crushed flowers and chalky minerality. Medium to full-bodied, ripe, yet elegant and balanced, it’s a classic Roussillon that can be enjoyed today or cellared for a decade.”
FRANCE-OTHER
Case-12 Domaine des Cassagnoles Gros Manseng, IGP Cotes de Gascogne 2015 750ML ($149.95) $119 special (that’s only $9.92/bottle!)
Winery Notes–“The Gros Manseng produces fleshier, more ample wines with fruity apricot and pear aromas. It is a lively wine, but not to excess, with a persistent final. It may be kept for several years and should be drunk chilled, at a temperature of 10/12°”
ITALY-TUSCANY
Case-12 Felsina Berardenga Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2011 750ML ($349.95) $299 special (that’s only $24.92/bottle!)
Felsina Berardenga Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2011 1.5L ($79.95) $69 special
Antonio Galloni 93 points “Dark red cherries, plums, grilled herbs, tobacco, smoke and anise meld together in the 2011 Chianti Classico Riserva. Silky layers provide the backdrop for a core of rich, explosive fruit. Even with all of its richness, the 2011 needs more time in bottle to fully blossom. Today, the 2011 Riserva is uncharacteristically closed for the year, but that is a great sign for the future.”
Wine Advocate 92 points “The 2011 Chianti Classico Riserva is a wine of enormous depth and personality. It shows an immediate rush of berry aromas with grilled herb and tilled earth. It does a great job of presenting the varietal characteristics of Sangiovese in a pure and unadulterated manner. You can feel a touch of fruit ripeness that is common in most of the wines of 2011, but the mouthfeel is polished and direct.”
Badia a Coltibuono Vin Santo del Chianti Classico Occhio di Pernice 2006 375ML ($79.95) $69 special
Antonio Galloni 95 points “The 2006 Vin Santo del Chianti Classico Occhio di Pernice is one of the best wines I have tasted from Badia a Coltibuono in some time. Sweet, dark and voluptuous, the 2006 shows all of the richness of a 100% Sangiovese Vin Santo, yet also possesses remarkable restraint for such a big wine, with plenty of intensity but no excess weight. A bevy of leather, licorice and clove notes round out the silky, mid-weight finish.”
Bruce Wiatrak- Vinous Media “Their Occhio di Pernice is a different animal entirely, even more distinct from Coltibuono’s white rendition than Avignonesi’s two Vin Santos are from one another. Stucchi relies on “perfect” Sangiovese clusters for the Occhio di Pernice, loose and healthy. He crushes the fruit in a basket press, but leaves the must there for two days for the skins to impart more pigment. The 2006 sweeps across the palate in broad strokes of coffee grounds, poached figs, toffee and buttered popcorn. A thread of acidity keeps the Vin Santo focused and long, needling its way through the fleshy, brooding wine”
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ITALY-PIEDMONT
Wine Advocate 94 points “The 2011 Barolo is a very expressive wine with more determination and muscle than you usually get in the wines of Bartolo Mascarello. The bouquet opens to plush flavors of red fruit and cherry with grilled herb, tobacco and mineral delineation. Its structure is yielding and round and the finish is ripe with soft fruit flavors. Make no mistake, it doles out complexity and an ethereal sense of balsam herb, cola and licorice that is the hallmark of this historic estate with a tiny garage winery in the town of Barolo. The alcohol reading here is 14.5% compared to 14% in the 2010 vintage.”
Antonio Galloni 93+ points “Maria-Theresa Mascarello’s 2011 Barolo is one of the more refined wines of the year, with less size than many other 2011s, and plenty of immediacy. Racy and giving on the palate, but with good underlying structure, the 2011 impresses for its juxtaposition of the riper elements of the vintage and more classic attributes that are such signatures at this address. Bright red stone fruits, strawberries and crushed flowers are some of the notes that grace the exquisite finish. The 2011 is an excellent choice to drink while some of the more ageworthy recent vintages sleep in the cellar. I will not be surprised to see the 2011 improve from where it is today.”
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AUSTRIA
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SPAIN
Case-12 Torre Oria Brut Reserva Cava Gold Label, Valencia 750ML ($149.95) $119 special (that’s only $9.92/bottle!)
Wine & Spirits 91 points
Remelluri Granja Nuestra Senora de Remelluri Reserva, Rioja DOCa 2010 750ML ($39.95) $33 special
James Suckling 95 points “A wine with beautiful finesse and depth. Dark fruits, dark chocolate, hazelnut and floral character. Polished and refined. Full body. Long and beautiful. Tasty finish. The first recent vintage 100% made by Telmo Rodriguez. Drink or hold.”
Peñín Guide to Spanish Wine 96 points– Podium Award – Exceptional Wine “(tempranillo, garnacha, graciano). Colour: cherry, garnet rim. Nose: ripe fruit, spicy, creamy oak, complex, expressive. Palate: flavourful, toasty, round tannins, balanced, elegant.”
Wine Advocate 93 points “The wine that represents the house style and also the biggest volume here with around 350,000 bottles produced is the 2010 Reserva which was cropped from an almost perfect growing season. A blend of the reds Tempranillo, Garnacha, Graciano and the whites Viura and Malvasía Riojana, it fermented with indigenous yeasts in a combination of stainless steel and oak vats then matured in French oak barrels for 17 months. The nose has earthy aromas and notes of ripe orange peel giving old-style character to the wine marked by very well-integrated oak and an obvious Rioja character. There are cherries, plums and spices with licorice and ink aromas. The day after, it has more strawberries with very good freshness, so the evolution in bottle should be good. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins and good acidity that ends with sweet fruit flavors and something earthy, very pleasant and easy to drink. It grows on you.”
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Bodegas Contador – Benjamin Romeo ‘Predicador’, Rioja DOCa 2009 750ML ($34.95)
$28 specialJosh Raynolds–Vinous 92 points “(96% tempranillo, 3% garnacha and 1% viura, aged for 16 months in one-year-old French oak barrels): Glass-staining ruby. Explosive, alluring aromas of black and blue fruits, incense, licorice and vanilla bean. Lush and broad but juicy and focused as well, with suave candied dark berry flavors accented by sexy floral and Indian spice nuances. Finishes broad, spicy and impressively long, with echoing boysenberry and licorice notes. In the context of flamboyant, new-wave Rioja this is an absolute steal.”
Cecilio Black Slate Gratallops, Priorat DOCa 2014 750ML ($24.95) $21.90 special
Garnacha Negre, Carinyena, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. Sustainably grown. From Eric Solomon Selections.
Celler Capcanes Mas Donis Negre, Montsant 2013 750ML ($17.95) $14 special
Winery Note: “Medium ruby with flecks of violet; lovely perfume of cherry and red berries; ripe and complex; floral, with ripe crispy fruit; medium body; pure fruit seduction and charm; fine finish with ripe soft tannins and nicely refreshing aftertaste. A fresh, crisp, and lively summer red, to be served slightly chilled. 65% Grenache, 15% Carinyena, 5% Syrah, 5% Merlot, 5% Tempranillo, 5% Cabernet.”
Clos i Terrasses Clos Erasmus ‘Laurel’, Priorat DOCa 2013 750ML ($59.95) $49 special
Josh Raynolds–Vinous 93 points “Brilliant ruby. Heady, mineral-laced aromas of candied red fruit, Indian spices and rose pastille. Juicy and incisive on the palate, offering intense raspberry and bitter cherry flavors that gain sweetness and spiciness in the glass. Packs a powerful punch but comes off lithe and precise, with alluring sweetness and a touch of candied rose on the gently tannic finish. This suave wine was aged in a combination of French oak tanks, barrels and clay amphoras for 18 months.”
Suertes del Marques 7 Fuentes Tinto, Valle de la Orotava, Canary Islands 2013 750ML ($21.95) $18 special
Wine Advocate 92 points “The QPR champion 2013 7 Fuentes is a blend of Listán Negro and 15% Tintilla (the local name given to Trousseau) from different plots on volcanic soils of ungrafted, old vineyards. Each plot is fermented separately with indigenous yeasts in cement vats and small bins. Sixty-five percent of the wine matures in cement and the rest is transferred to 500-liter oak barrels for a period of seven months. After some initial reduction (give it an energetic decanting) there are showy aromas of dried flowers, white pepper, pumice, volcanic ash and perhaps some plums with savage, meaty undertones. The palate is silky with supple tannins framing the red fruit and pungent flavors that are intermixed with notes of volcanic rocks. It reminds me quite a lot of the 2011 that is pure minerals. This is one to buy by the case; it is a bargain” WA
Josh Raynolds–Vinous 91 points “(98% listan negra and 2% tintilla; aged for eight months in a combination of concrete tanks and 500-liter French oak barrels): Brilliant red. Spice- and mineral-tinged red fruits on the intensely perfumed nose and palate. Fine-grained and very well balanced, with sexy floral pastille and incense qualities coming up with aeration. Finishes with strong mineral cut, no obvious tannins and excellent spicy persistence.” JR
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Wine Advocate 92 points “The 2012 La Solana is a single-vineyard Listán Negro planted with very old, ungrafted vines at 300-450 meters altitude on volcanic soils, probably their oldest vineyard. The wine aged for one year in 500-liter French oak barrels. It feels serious and closed, ripe with plums, violets and rocks, developing more perfume with time in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied, with fresh, acid red fruit flavors and a mineral, earthy finish with the dried roses making a glorious comeback in the finish. 9,000 bottles.” WA
Josh Raynolds–Vinous 91 points “Brilliant ruby. A complex bouquet evokes intense raspberry, floral and mineral scents and a hint of Asian spices. Vibrant and precise on the palate, offering lively red fruit flavors that gain sweetness with air. Silky tannins give shape to the finish, which emphasizes juicy red fruit and rose pastille qualities.” JR
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Wine Advocate 91 points “According to the website, it is one Luis Gutierrez who came up with the term: “Florpower.” As stated on the label in Roman numerals, Lot 44 La Bota de Vino Blanco MMX “Florpower” comes from the 2010 vintage: unfortified Palomino from chalky Sanlucar soils that spends 32 months under flor and 8 months in sherry casks. Jesus mentioned that he did not want to risk excessive oxidation. It has a very attractive nose of beeswax, honeysuckle, smoked walnut that is clean and supremely well-focused. The palate is poised with impressive weight and presence in the mouth allied with a crisp seam of acidity: bitter lemon and dried orange peel, cloves and walnut towards the attractive, focused finish. This is a joy to behold, although I will have to ask my colleague what exactly “florpower” is and where I can buy some for myself.”
Equipo Navazos La Bota de Amontillado No. 37 ‘Navazos’ Sherry, Andalucia NV 750ML ($79.95) $69 special
Wine Advocate 95 points “The Lot 37 La Bota de Amontillado is selected from around 100 butts from the amontillado Soleras of Rainera P. Marin that were acquired by the Estevez Group and the idea here was to choose butts with freshness and heightened aromatics. Bottled in September 2012 it has a lucid deep straw color. The nose is very attractive with caramel, hazelnut, Turkish Delight and a touch of wild honey that are all very well defined and vibrant. The palate is very well-balanced with that caramel note coming through and combining beautifully with quince, white pepper, dried honey and marmalade. The oxidative element is perfectly judged on the finish with a delicate, nutty aftertaste that renders this approachable and for want of a better word – delicious!”
Equipo Navazos La Bota de Fino No. 35 ‘Macharnudo Alto’ Sherry, Andalucia NV 750ML ($59.95) $49 special
Wine Advocate 95 points “The La Bota De Fino Macharnudo Alto 35 was bottled in June 2012, and shows a deep golden color. This wine is sourced from the Inocente solera from Valdespino, and averages 10 years under flor. The idea is that once the wines age for a long time and the flor sharpens the wine, if you continue to age it further it gains in volume and intensity, making them much more powerful and if you like, less fine. An old wine that is a complex gentle giant crying for food. It shows a deep old-gold color, and feels dense and concentrated. The very complex nose is redolent of yeast, chalk, esparto grass, salted almonds and iodine, and keeps changing and developing as the wine stays in the glass. The palate is full-bodied, intense, balanced, ending dry with a bitter note. As good as Fino gets. Drink 2013- 2019.”
Arriving July 1st
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Stephen Tanzer 92 points “(this is a monopole but not a premier cru): Very pale straw. Crushed stone, lemon drop, yellow apple and pungent fresh herbs on the nose. Dense, fat and deep, conveying lovely volume and sweetness to its sexy stone fruit, ginger, quinine and herb flavors. As broad and ripe as this is, it’s almost weightless on the palate. Finishes with good grip and sneaky length. Sexy juice.”
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Jaboulet
Crozes & Saint Joe
Wine Advocate 94 points “Coming from a small three-hectare plot of granite soils in the northern part of the appellation (which is the prime terroir), the blockbuster 2012 Crozes Hermitage Domaine Raymond Roure exhibits incredible minerality in its black raspberry, olive tapenade, spring flower, and subtle chocolate-laced aromatics. Tasting like it was filtered through a bed of rocks, it’s full-bodied, thrillingly concentrated and has superb underlying structure. In short, it’s a smoking Crozes Hermitage to drink anytime over the coming 15+ years. Unfortunately, there’s only 500 cases made.” WA
Paul Jaboulet Aine Saint-Joseph Domaine de la Croix des Vignes 2012 750ML ($69.95) $59 special
Wine Advocate 95 points “The only Saint Joseph produced, the 2012 St Joseph Domaine de la Croix des Vignes is another incredible effort from this team. Coming from steep, granite soils and a vineyard located just beside the famed Vignes de Hospice, this beauty knocks it out of the park with its massive minerality, currants, rare beef and tapenade-like aromas and flavors. Ripe, medium to full-bodied, beautifully textured and still lively and elegant, it too will knock your socks off over the coming 15-20 years.” WA
Just a reminder about our current shipping specials:
Free service upgrade only applies on single orders purchased and shipped during the promotional period. Additional fees will apply to orders held for any reason until after the promotional period and shipped by Three Day Select. Offer not valid on pre-arrival items that arrive after the promotional period.
We also offer flat rate shipping on any size single order / single shipment
–Washington & Idaho for $20,
–and California for $25
These rates do not apply to orders held in storage here for any reason.
Multiple orders consolidated into one shipment do not qualify for flat rate shipping.
Terry Theise
New Releases – 2015 vintage Germany / Austria
Arrive Fall 2016
Joh. Jos. Christoffel – Mosel, Germany
At Christoffel, many plantings are over 100 years old, coming from their original rootstocks. Similar to Meulenhof, Christoffel vinifies each parcel separately, designated by a star system. Wines are pressed whole-cluster, cool-fermented in large wooden casks, and allowed to rest on the fine lees for a brief time before early bottling.
These wines are marked by brilliant clarity, structure, and balance. Vines benefit greatly from the iron-rich soils, with resultant wines brimming with minerality and well-aligned acidity. Great aging potential lies here, though there’s nothing wrong with popping a cork anytime soon…
Joh. Jos. Christoffel Erben Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett, Mosel 2015 750ML ($34.95) $24 pre-arrival special
Terry Theise note: “A real salt bomb; long, licorice-y, carraway seeds, seemed drier than it used to be, and shows a serpentine structure. Fibrous and light on its feet.”
Joh. Jos. Christoffel Erben Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Kabinett, Mosel 2015 750ML ($34.95) $24 pre-arrival special
Terry Theise note: “Licorice again but the Würzgarten garrigue is now present; the wine’s more open and available than the Erdener; transparent and exotic, almost as if it were Zierfandler and not Riesling, all that radish-y spring-onion juju; the wine’s a real tongue-dancer, and leaves a slinky herbal finish.”
Terry Theise note: “Wonderful fragrance, again quite open and again rampant caraway; it feels stretched, like pulling taffy; crackling acidity, black walnut, a savory and herbal critter, like one of those not-sweet desserts.”
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Terry Theise note: “More backward, but also distinctly finer, with more acidity showing through its leaner body; it follows their vintage line in being slithery and savory, and like all of these it has the perfect RS.”
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Terry Theise note: “The mise-en-scene was my colleagues and me around a long rectangular table, and at this point they were all talking and laughing, Johannes (Selbach), his mother Sigrid, his son Sebastian, Hans-Leo (Christoffel) and Robert (Eymael), and it became a warm background hum, reassuring somehow, the purring engine of a community. It let me detach and just taste the wine, which was wicky and fibrous and reminded me of what granny smith apples used to be like before the modern breeders destroyed them. A little botrytis appears now; the wine, again, is threading the sweetness needle, and is as much food as wine.”
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Terry Theise note: “Hails from the cadaster parcel from which the “3-star” came. It fits the “system” in being spicy, angular and savory. Glossy and sophisticated.”
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~~
Weingut Bernhard Ott – Wagrum, Austria
Ott’s approach to farming became biodynamic, as he uses compost in lieu of fertilizer and employs tinctures and homeopathic-minded solutions to issues within the vineyard. Once switching, he found that harvest was possible weeks earlier – ripeness is possible without overabundance of sugar and high alcohol levels.
Terry Theise note: “A newbie from Ott, mostly from new vineyards he’s recently bought, and mostly Welschriesling; it’s carbonically macerated, and the wine is walnutty, vibrant and racy.”
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Weingut Bernhard Ott ‘Am Berg’ Gruner Veltliner, Wagram 2015 750ML ($24.95)
$19 pre-arrival specialTerry Theise note: “There are two bottlings, and as before it’s mostly Ott’s own fruit plus some (organic) fruit he buys from colleagues whose vineyards are worked and harvested by Ott’s team. The early bottling is rich and smooth, and the second, equally creamy, is also a little tannic and shows more fennel and chervil; it’s on the salad-y side. I love you for so handsomely supporting this wine, but with just a wee stretch upward you’ll receive a big jump upward if you’ll also consider….”
Terry Theise note: “….This is considered by Ott to be his first “serious” GV for the table, and in ’15 it is really another type of wine entirely. Riper, bakier aromas, like a mini-Rosenberg; still some phenolics, it’s overall more spherical than linear; analog and savory; paprika and mint and a lot of grip. Starting to occupy a new country with this.”
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Terry Theise note: “Put it this way: would you ignore Bourgogne Rouge from Henri Jayer?
“This wine is made from young vines in the three Grand Crus, and if those wines are too spendy you can get a lot of their mojo here. Or if you happen to like intense wine but not big wine. This has a truly compelling aroma and a wonderful palate, meaty and roasty, salty and robust yet warming and sustaining; chewy but with its own rotund sort of polish.”
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Terry Theise note: “This high-grown GV (highest site in the Wagram) gave my favorite of the big-3 Crus, at least in early May. At least! If you still, for some inexplicably stubborn reason, don’t believe GV is serious, classic and even profound, then taste this. And if you persist in your belief then all I can say is: Really!? This wine is like impeccable sushi-quality squid; it’s concentrated yet aerial, creamy yet with crazy grip; edible flowers and tat-soi. What a wine!”
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Terry Theise note: “The site is in Engabrunn, just over the border in the Kamptal, and it sits on (mostly) the so-called Gföhler gneiss, and will remind you more of Kamptal GVs than of Ott’s expected style. Which compels me to wonder….how much of what I infer and (perhaps glibly) conclude about Bernhard’s style has to do with his particular soils? Because this wine really wouldn’t be out of place at, say, Bründlmayer. It shows the purest gnarl of mineral and animality, funky iris aromas; rock-dust and rusks; the classic example of massive flavor virtually without “fruit” as-such; it’s like a rock garden of vinosity, and curiously it’s also like dark-meat turkey.”
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Terry Theise note: “OK, understanding that I’m describing an embryonic wine, into the breach go I….markedly mineral aromas lead into a massively structured palate; like GV on an IMAX screen; as close as white wine comes to the experience of drinking red wine. Like the fatcap on a pork-knuckle with roasted carrots. It’s half-wine, half-food.”
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~ ~ ~
Weingut Josef Spreitzer – Rheingau, Germany
Terry Theise note: “(Lot 90) This is a huge step up from the ’14; lavishly juicy! Lovely fragrances, gently sponti, apple compote, lilacs; a wonderful fruit-driven RG-Riesling; dry but relaxed and genial.”
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Terry Theise note: “This used to be the Doosberg, and I’m sure it was changed to accommodate some arcane VDP diktat. In any case the wine is excellent; beautifully mineral and gently dry; white hyacinth; slim, demure and complex dialogue of flowers and rock dust.”
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Terry Theise note: “A new-ish cask, and thus an outlier in the family; nutty and savory, crusty and addictive. I hedge the plus to see how it gets through bottling, but it’s at least equal to the excellent ’14.”
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Terry Theise note: “Wow, what a vintage here….. Raw pretzel dough and nut husk typical of the Cru; torque, thrust and spiciness, quite the Prussian officer next to the Rosengarten, but the sheer intensity is convincing (if not overwhelming); overall feeling drier and crunchier.”
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Terry Theise note: “This is the most charming “GG” I think I know. Others can sometimes feel like monuments of their own Solemn Stature, but this is just volley after volley of concentrated fruit. That said, this ’15 is unusually mineral, like a basket of apples with flint sparks flashing; wonderfully expressive, it’s the best vintage I’ve tasted, with endlessly juicy tangy fruit threading off in a fine white line of spice, delicious phsio-sweetness—it’s hard to resist!”
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This is the only listing in the USA today!
This is the only listing in the USA today!
Terry Theise note: “A true masterpiece. Plays on every register; earthy, irises, capacious and vivid; a solid spicy mass, primordial depth, implacable length; the 1st finish is monumental, the tertiary finish is all lamb and mint jelly. Use this wine to understand the renown the Rheingau once had, and could have again if more wines like this were made. And if you only buy one Spreitzer wine, make it this one.”
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We’re not finished quite yet – a few more crucial German selections!
Terry Theise note: “This village wine is the next level up, and the wine is more mannerly and cordial, but this after all is Scheurebe, so it’s still kinky but just not blatant. It demonstrates how fine the grape can be, how reasonable and even how complex; it has a long fine farewell of currant-leaf, salt and hyacinth.”
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Terry Theise note: “Quite a vogue built around this, to my unending delight. I have to alert you, though, that this 2014 is less yummy than either the ’13 or the ’12; like most ’14 German reds, it’s tannic and stewy—the alc is 14%—but the fruit is strong and the aroma is appealing. Don’t buy it sight-unseen based on the last vintages; taste it and satisfy yourself you like it.”
Weingut J. & H. A. Strub Soil to Soul Riesling Niersteiner Kabinett, Rheinhessen 2015 750ML ($29.95) $16 pre-arrival special
Terry Theise note: “A good spicy vintage of this wine; a little brash-seeming but juicy and crisp; still knitting together but likely to be balanced on the zingy side.”
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Weingut Hexamer QbA Riesling Meddersheimer Rheingrafenberg 2002 750ML ($29.95)
$24 pre-arrival specialImporter Note “Meddersheimer Rheingrafenberg (red slate with a high content of quarzite)”
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Terry Theise note: “This has become perfect over the past few years—much less sweet than it once was; now it is deep, multi-layered, crackery (rye and seeds), qrape-hyacinth aromas alongside cherry and plum-blossom; actually exciting wine, serious and diligent.”
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Terry Theise note: “You expect this to be superb, and it is. From the lower part of a steeply terraced hillside, the soils run to amphibolite, marble, gravel and loam over a bedrock of mica-schist. We tasted a cask-sample which of course was euphorically expressive; it did seem basically richer than the wines around it, but not really more “intense.” (The Alte Reben was the most intense wine in the group.) This wine is queenly, blossomy, like an ambience of 500 flowering trees yet anchored to a flowing solidity.”
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Terry Theise note: “In great vintages this is one of the world’s best Rieslings. Yes, you read it right—one of the world’s best. It’s a plateau above the Pellingen, on a complex soil in which the original loess eroded and exposed the bedrock of marble, amphibolite, paragneiss and mica schist. Because it is flat it stores water, and because of that it is stunning in dry vintages. I cannot, honestly, drink the 2013 without weeping. (Even if I’m also watching wrestling!) This recalls the Höhereck from Alzinger, another miracle-wine; it has a similarly ecstatic mineral and otherworldly fruit—the fruit is maybe more prominent here. It has the chiseled coolness of a Gaisberg, the pollen wind of extraterrestrial fruits and orchids; a rare urgent bliss of inexplicable loveliness.”
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Terry Theise note: “Riesling’s planted upslope now, in the steepest section with the poorest soil, and clearly Martin considers it his best Riesling— and me his most perverse customer, because I often prefer the Hochäcker. This cask sample was an a reductive phase that made it taste a bit feral, but I have over twenty years of tasting this wine and it has always been grand and important—so faith is called for!”
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Terry Theise note: “This combines two pickings, one in late October and the other after Christmas; good true varietal flavors and a correct but not stinging Eiswein acidity; it has the loessy “Freiheit” fruit (green bean) and is perfectly constituted and balanced.”
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Kapcsandy Too Has an Already Legendary Wine
Arriving Here this Fall
Antonio Galloni 97-100 points “Another seamless, absolutely impeccable wine, the 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Grand Vin saturates every corner of the palate. Magnificent, rich and unctuous yet with a classic sense of balance, the 2014 hits all the right notes. The flavors are deep, bold and incredibly intense throughout. Graphite, savory herbs, tobacco, menthol and licorice wrap around the voluptuous finish. At this early stage, the 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Grand Vin is without question one of the most compelling wines I have tasted at Kapcsándy .”
9 Bottles Remain Unsold – Winery Release – Arrival Here Late Fall 2016