Vinopolis Newsletter 7-31-24

 In This Newsletter:

New Arrivals
Produttori del Barbaresco

Aged To Perfection
The Wines of Bartolo Mascarello


Sauvignon Blanc Conquers the World!
Sauv Blanc Picks from South Africa to Slovenia
 
New Arrivals
 

Produttori del Barbaresco
 

 
Before the late 19th century, Barbaresco was stuck in Barolo’s shadow. The great vineyards of the Barbaresco region were producing grapes for their famous neighbor and that was about it. Things began to change when a local viticulturalist, Domizio Cavazza, attempted to improve the region’s reputation by becoming part of the greater Barolo region. Although he was denied by the powers that be, Domizio, ever the visionary, had an idea.

What do you do when you are denied a piece of the pie? You make your own pie! Shortly after this realization, Domizio and nine Barbaresco growers formed a cooperative, bottling their own wines and grabbing much attention from Barolo in the years that followed.

 
However, amid the horrors of fascist Italy and the devastation of two world wars, Barbaresco was left in dire straits. Again, the people came together. With nineteen growers this time, the village priest helped to resurrect their Co-op, thus ensuring the survival of this commune.
 
Today Produttori del Barbaresco has 51 growers, many accolades, and remains a testament to the powers of collaboration.

Produttori del Barbaresco Montestefano, Barbaresco Riserva DOCG, Italy 2019 1.5L $179 special, 3 magnums available
Antonio Galloni-Vinous 95 Points “The 2019 Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano is perhaps the most complete of the 2019 Riservas at this stage. It offers fine depth, plenty of tannin and nascent emerging inner sweetness to tie it all together. A wine of stature and textural depth, the Montestefano is my early favorite in this lineup.”
 
Produttori del Barbaresco Ovello, Barbaresco Riserva DOCG, Italy 2019 2019 1.5L $179 special, 3 magnums available
Antonio Galloni-Vinous 94 Points “The 2019 Barbaresco Riserva Ovello is powerful, savory and intensely linear, in classico Ovello style, and yet it appears to have enough fruit behind its imposing tannins to develop well over the coming years. In this tasting, the Ovello feels pretty closed post bottling, but its inherent balance and qualities are there. Clean saline notes extend the finish in promising fashion.”
 
Produttori del Barbaresco Rabaja, Barbaresco Riserva DOCG, Italy 2019 1.5L $199 special, 3 magnums available
Antonio Galloni-Vinous 94 Points “The 2019 Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà is redolent of dark fruit, crushed rocks, graphite, sage, menthol and lavender all race across the palate, supported by bracing, young Rabajà tannins that make themselves felt. This mid-weight, powerhouse Barbaresco packs quite a punch.”

Aged to Perfection


The Wines of Bartolo Mascarello



 
Cantina Bartolo Mascarello has certainly stood the test of time. One of the Barolo’s legends, they are a paragon of traditionalist winemaking. Like many other wineries in the region, they began by producing wine communally with their neighbors, but graduated to estate bottling after World War One decimated the other members of their cooperative . As the years passed, they hued to tradition, eschewing new fads like barrique-aging their wines in French Oak as was popular in the 80’s and 90’s. Bartolo, one of the greatest (and most out-spoken) winemakers in Piedmont’s history declared his feelings on both “modernist” Barolo and Italy’s political landscape with own hand-written notes proclaiming “No Barrique, No Berlusconi” affixed to the bottles.
 
It was these touches of the personal, their small scale that has sustained their quality and reputation over the years. Rather than acquiring new land and vines to up their production volume, the Mascarello family insisted on making wines at a “human scale.” After Bartolo’s death in 2005, his daughter Maria Teresa has taken the reigns, still creating wines of beauty and longevity in the traditional ways of her forbearers.
 
Today we are lucky enough to present these library editions of their wines, as pure as the day they were bottled, now aged to perfection.
 
Bartolo Mascarello Barolo DOCG, Piedmont, Italy 2007 750ml $419 special, 2 bottles available
Vinous 97 Points “Mascarello’s 2007 Barolo shows just how compelling this vintage can be, even now. Sensual, layered and totally voluptuous in the glass, the 2007 shows the more flamboyant side of Barolo. I find the wine’s voluptuous, engaging personality impossible to resist. Sure, 2007 is not a classic vintage, but when a wine is this good, I say: Who cares?”
 
Bartolo Mascarello Langhe Nebbiolo, Piedmont, Italy 2016 750ml $128 special, 11 bottles available
Antonio Galloni – Vinous 93 Points “I thought it would be fun to start with something different. The 2016 Langhe Nebbiolo is gorgeous. Bright, vibrant and classically austere – in the best sense of the term – the 2016 is a picture-perfect example of the vintage, but in a slightly more approachable package than is found in the top wines. It’s a terrific introduction to the evening.”
 
Bartolo Mascarello Langhe Nebbiolo, Piedmont, Italy 2017 750ml $128 special, 12 bottles available
Antonio Galloni – Vinous “Sweet dried red cherry, mint, sweet tobacco, orange peel and incense are all lifted in the 2017 Langhe Nebbiolo. Translucent and pretty, the 2017 is a touch ethereal, but there is a good bit of tannic grip. Because of low yields in Barolo, Maria Teresa Mascarello made this wine from purchased grapes from San Rocco Seno d’Elvio, which is in the Barbaresco zone.”
 
Bartolo Mascarello Langhe Nebbiolo, Piedmont, Italy 2018 750ml $119 special, 12 bottles available
Antonio Galloni – Vinous “The 2018 Langhe Nebbiolo offers plenty of charm and immediacy. Dark cherry, spice, tobacco and leather are nicely pushed forward. There is plenty to like in the 2018, even if the Nebbiolo does not reach the heights of the very best editions.”
 
Bartolo Mascarello Langhe Nebbiolo, Piedmont, Italy 2019 750ml $114.50 special, 11 bottles available
Antonio Galloni- Vinous 91 Points “What a joy it is to taste Maria Teresa Mascarello’s 2019 Langhe Nebbiolo. Bright and effusive, with gorgeous fruit presence, the 2019 is a total knock-out. Sweet red cherry, mint, spice, orange peel and licorice all grace this gorgeous, wonderfully expressive Langhe Nebbiolo.”
 
Bartolo Mascarello Langhe Nebbiolo, Piedmont, Italy 2020 750ml $94.50 special, 11 bottles available
Antonio Galloni-Vinous 93 Points “The 2020 Langhe Nebbiolo is sublime. Dark cherry, plum, lavender licorice and crushed flowers infuse the 2020 with striking detail. Fresh and vibrant, with terrific depth and character, the 2020 shows how captiviating this vintage is.”
  
 
Sauvignon Blanc Conquers The World
 
Sauvignon Blanc was born in the Loire Valley, where it has been cultivated since at least the 1500’s. Believed to be a descendant of the Alpine Savagnin grape (still cultivated in Jura for use in local curios like Vin Jaune and Macvin) and more recently parent to the Cabernet Sauvignon grape in Bordeaux, Sauvignon Blanc has proven itself adept in diverse viticultural regions across the globe and has made a happy home in many of our hearts.
 
We have previously talked about our favorite French Sauvignon Blanc wines, today we’re happy to present some of our very favorites from regions as diverse as New Zealand and Slovenia.
 
Southern Hemisphere
 
Man Family Wines ‘Warrelwind’ Sauvignon Blanc, Western Cape, South Africa 2023 750ml $11.90 special, 22 bottles available
Winery Note “A refreshing and balanced wine with an abundance of flavors from both sides of the Sauvignon Blanc spectrum. This wine has tropical fruit aromas with just a hint of herbaceousness. Rich tropical fruit on the palate complemented by a crisp and well integrated acidity.”
 
Dog Point Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand 2023 750ml $24 special, 29 bottles available
Wine Spectator 94 Points “Lush and expressive, with plenty of concentration to the mix of mango, lemon curd and litsea oil flavors. Details of dried pineapple, candied ginger and crystalized orange zest add complexity and aromatics on the long finish.”
 
United States
 
Robert Mondavi Winery Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley, California, USA 2022 750ml $18.50 special, 13 bottles available
Winery Note “A refreshing and balanced wine with an abundance of flavors from both sides of the Sauvignon Blanc spectrum. This wine has tropical fruit aromas with just a hint of herbaceousness. Rich tropical fruit on the palate complemented by a crisp and well integrated acidity.”
 
Peter William Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc, Rogue Valley, Oregon, USA 2022 750ml $21.90 special, 32 bottles available
Vinopolnote “Their second vintage of Sauvignon Blanc, this is made in the style of Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc and shows grassy and flinty notes.”
 
Rutherford Hill AJT. Collection Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley, California USA 2022 750ml $21.90 special, 27 bottles available
Wine Spectator 94 Points “Stunning, this exuberant, generous version shows notes of passion fruit, Key lime, dried pineapple and orange blossoms, along with grated ginger. Reveals a hint of sea salt minerality on the long, expressive finish, where toasted herb accents linger.”
 
Germany & Austria
 
Weingut Tement Grassnitzberg Sauvignon Blanc Erste STK Lage, Steiermark, Austria 2019 750ml $47 special, 18 bottles available
Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 96 Points “The 2019 Ried Grassnitzberg Sauvignon Blanc is sometimes quite reductive and needs a lot of air, but it is precise, deep and clear.  The 2019 is not at all for young-wine or brand drinkers, but for collectors and connoisseurs of demanding wines. This is a tightly knit, taut, big wine that needs around 10 years before its journey really begins.”
 
Von Winning Sauvignon Blanc II – Royale Trocken, Pfalz, Germany 2022 750ml $21.90 special, 36 bottles available
Falstaff Magazine 91 Points “Slightly closed-reductive aroma, spontaneous fermentation. Dense structure, firm acidity and smooth base, very good in freshness and tension. Aromatically restrained but the substance is excellent. Will continue to develop positively.”
 
Slovenia
 
Weingut Tement Domaine Ciringa Fosilni Breg Sauvignon Blanc, Stajerska Slovenia 2021 750ml $24 special, 23 bottles available
Wine Advocate 92 Points “The 2021 Sauvignon Blanc Fosilni Breg is the village wine from the Ciringa lieu-dit. Macerated for 12 hours and aged on the full lees for 12 months and then for another six months on the fine lees in 2,400- to 4,000-liter casks, the wine offers an intense and coolish, very spicy and phenolic, even earthy nose with limestone and lemon rind as well as herbal and leafy aromas. Medium to full-bodied on the palate, this is a tight and textured, very elegant and juicy Sauvignon with stimulating bitters on the finish.”
 
Weingut Tement Domaine Ciringa Fosilni Breg Sauvignon Blanc Reserve, Stajerska Slovenia 2018 750ml $34.50 special, 10 bottles available
Wine Advocate 93 Points “From a very warm (and humid) year, macerated for 18 hours and aged on the lees for 42 months in a 4,000-liter-oak cask, the 2018 Sauvignon Blanc Fosilni Breg Reserve opens with an intense and concentrated, pretty phenolic bouquet with notes of crushed stones and fresh white and citrus fruits. Full-bodied and creamy yet with positive grip on the palate, this is a mouth-filling, elegant, fresh and linear Sauvignon from the Slovenian side of the Zieregg. It has very good, savory length.”
 In This Newsletter:

Staff Picks
3 Top Values in Oregon Chardonnay

Wineries We Love
Weingut Carl Loewen


The World of Sauvignon Blanc
Our Faves From France
 Staff Picks


Oregon Chardonnay
 
 
 

Tan Fruit Petite Tan Fruit Chardonnay 2022 750ml $19 special, 36+ bottles available
Vinopolnote “Electric lemonade! This zippy, bargain priced introduction to Jimmy Maresh’s oeuvre, features finely tuned stone fruit notes and lightly toasted hazelnut aromas. This is an even better release then the 2021 vintage featuring more nuance and character… we almost never see quality chardonnay at this price anymore!”
 
Goodfellow Chardonnay ‘Vin Soif,’ Willamette Valley, Oregon 2023 750ml $24 special, 30 bottles available
Vinopolnote “12% alcohol? What year is this?! I’m so happy I met this bottle… like many consumers I’ve noticed the steady alcoholic uptick in formerly cool climates like the Willamette Valley. Well, Goodfellow is bucking that trend with this lovely little summer sipper. Bright and fresh on the palette, this wine features eggshell and preserved lemon on the nose, and fresh citrus on the palette with a lightly toasted hazelnut finish.”
 
Kelley Fox Chardonnay Willamette Valley 2023 750ml $26 special, 19 bottles available
Vinopolnote How does she keep doing it? With every vintage and every wine, I keep asking myself this. And it leads to a natural follow-up question regarding Kelley Fox… how much longer will I be able to afford her wines? Citrus and stone fruit are immediately evident on the palette, buoyed by fresh acidity, and lingering floral aromas. Kelley Fox is the Queen of the Willamette natural wine scene and the insane depth of this, her most basic Chardonnay, shows why.
 
Wineries We Love
 

Weingut Carl Loewen



 
What’s the secret to greatness? Is it luck or hard work? In the case of Weingut Carl Loewen, it’s a bit of both. The estate has been in the Loewen family for 3 generations now, lucky for the current generation who inherited it, however it was also their diligence and hard work that have brought them such an eclectic and enviable patchwork of great vineyards to choose from. You see, in the 1980’s and 90’s when the German wine industry was still in disarray, the Lowen family began buying up the steepest, most dilapidated, and unwanted vineyards in Mosel and rehabilitating them. In addition, many of these vineyards still retained super low-yielding, ungrafted, plantings up to 120 years old!
 
These wines present an authenticity that simply cannot be found from younger plantings or upstart wineries that still trying to find their sea-legs. As luck would have it, we have 8 of these great wines at some of — if not the— lowest prices in the United States.
 
This is one of the wine world’s great unicorn wines, the Carl Loewen 1896 Riesling is from the oldest Riesling vines in Germany, and from a Grand Cru steep Mosel vineyard that transmits absolute purity of terroir.
Weingut Carl Loewen ‘1896’ Longuicher Maximin Herrenberg Alte Reben Riesling, Mosel, Germany 2021 750ml $46.50 special, 10 bottles available
Mosel Fine Wines 93 Points “The 2021er Maximin 1896 Herrenberg Alte Reben Trocken, as it is referred to on the front label, is a dry wine picked on un-grafted vines planted in 1896 in a plot at the lower end of the vineyard and was fermented and matured in Fuder. It proves quite smoky and herbal at first before delivering a pure nose of freshly cut pineapple, greengage, pear, and minty herbs, all wrapped into lime and may tree. The wine proves zesty and pure on the light-weighted yet complex palate. It leaves a very intense and smoky feel in the long and focused finish. The after-taste is all about lime, spices, and herbs, with a touch of salty elements in the background. This is a really great dry Riesling.”
 
Lowest listed price in the USA
 
Weingut Carl Loewen Longuicher Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett, Mosel, Germany 2021 750ml $26 special, 5 bottles available
Mosel Fine Wines 90 Points “The wine is superbly light-weighted and finely juicy on the aromatic but fresh palate. The finish is very clean and precise with good length. This is a superb aromatic Kabinett to enjoy in its youth on its fruity side. 2025-2031+”
 
Lowest price on the West Coast
 
Carl Loewen Laurentiuslay Spatlese 2018 750ml $29 special, 3 bottles available
David Schildknecht-Vinous 93 Points “Grapefruit, lime and orange mingle with Persian melon and mango on the nose and the lusciously citric, brightly juicy yet subtly tropical palate. The feel is polished and, for all of the wine’s animating brightness, also subtly creamy. Incidentally, the wine was picked very early in October and a full week ahead of the corresponding (also highly successful) dry “Alte Reben” bottling.”
 
This is the only listing in the United States!
 
Weingut Carl Loewen Leiwener Laurentiuslay Riesling Spatlese, Mosel, Germany 2022 750ml $31.90 special, 12 bottles available
James Suckling 94 Points “Wonderful nose of white peach, lemon zest and fresh mint. Very bright and zesty with impressive energy this is an extremely refreshing wine for a Spatlese with the conventional amount of unfermented grape sweetness, in fact it taste barely off-dry. Exciting purity and precision at the vibrant finish. Vegan. Drink or hold.”
 
Lowest listed price in the USA
 
Weingut Carl Loewen Leiwener Laurentiuslay Alte Reben Riesling Trocken, Mosel, Germany 2021 750ml $33 special, 24 bottles available
James Suckling 93 Points “I love the delicate lemon balm and Amalfi lemon nose of this very elegant and filigree dry Mosel riesling. Long racy and lemony finish. Just 11.5% alcohol, but it’s still clearly medium-bodied, perhaps because of the up to 100 year old vines. Vegan. Drink or hold.”
 
Lowest price on the West Coast
 
Weingut Carl Loewen Longuicher Herrenberg Riesling Kabinett, Mosel, Germany 2022 750ml $26 special, 33 bottles available
James Suckling 93 Points “It’s hard to resist the warm peach fruit and baking spice aromas of this succulent Kabinett. However, on the palate this has an exciting twist of cassis freshness. Excellent vitality. From up to 100-year-old ungrafted vines.”
 
Our Favorite French Sauvignon Blancs
 

Burgundy
 
This little known village, located just outside of Chablis, is unique to the region as the only appellation for Sauvignon Blanc in the Burgundy region. Sharing the same Kimmeridgian clay soils as such famous spots as Chablis, the Cote des Bar, and certain sections of the Loire Valley. What you get from Saint Bris then is a Sauvignon Blanc with a more Chablisienne sensibility and elegance. Don’t sleep on this wine, it’s an oft-overlooked gem.
 
Domaine Felix Saint-Bris Sauvignon 2019 750ml $24 special, 4 bottles available
Producer Note “Its vivacious nature is enhanced by minerals notes that give it a good structure. The end is very pleasant and leaves the palate fresh and wanting more.”
 
Bordeaux
 
Normally a blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, and other lesser known regional  grape s, this Bordeaux Blanc is a rare example of a single varietal Sauvignon Blanc. Expect excellent great minerality and crispness form this wine. It’s a rarity!
 
Closerie du Pelan Blanc 2016 750ml $36 special, 8 bottles available
Importer Notes “Comprising a miniscule portion of the estate’s total production, the Closerie du Pelan Blanc is 100% Sauvignon Blanc, vinified and aged in steel, with malolactic fermentation having occurred without inducement. This 2016 is ripe but bright, with notes of preserved lemon and a hint of salt–a supremely satisfying and unfussy white Bordeaux.”
 
 
The Loire Valley
 
Home to many of the finest (and priciest, let’s not mince words) Sauvigon Blancs on the market, the Loire Valley is home to wines that represent both the sophistication of centuries old tradition and some of the most radical, naturally observant and terroir forward wineries in the world.
 
Gerard Boulay Sancerre Mont Damnes 2022 750ml $59 special, 16 bottles available
Gerard Boulay Sancerre Mont Damnes 2022 1.5L $119 special, 3 magnums available
Importer Note “Boulay began farming the steeply sloped Mont Damnés vineyard in 1982. His plot has an average vine age of 45 years. Mont Damnés’ reflective soils and south-facing exposition make it one of Chavi¬gnol’s warmest sites. Overall, Gerard Boulay’s “terre blanche” vineyards produce some of the most distinctive and soil-inflected Sauvignon Blancs in the Loire, with a delineation and minerality often reminiscent of a top Chablis. Boulay is certainly among the top examples of the appellation, including Boulay’s neighbors (Cotat Bros., Vatan). These are gorgeous, highly complex wines that are a clear step above “regular” Sancerre, and can age easily for 10-20 years or more. In fact, we have had them all the way back to the 1959 which was magnificent! They confirm Boulay’s place in the top ranks of Loire Valley vignerons.”
 
Dagueneau Sancerre Mont Damne 2019 750ml $249 special, only one 1 bottle available
Rebecca Gibb MW-Vinous 94 Points “The 2019 Sancerre Le Mont Damné has an intensity and bounce to it as if it is heralding the start of an announcement on a tannoy: bing, bong, bing. Off this prized kimmeridgian soil vineyard above the village of Chavignol, it remains closed and a little uptight, making you wait for the big reveal. While many 2019 Sancerres were on the bigger side, this is taut and precise with no sense of any overripeness nor alcohol heaviness. It’s not Sauvignon Blanc-like either, speaking more of its place than variety, which seems to be the goal of every producer in Sancerre, which is rather disrespectful to the grape in my mind. Instead, there’s a crystalline character, a savoriness, crip apple and the merest hint of almond. Exemplary stuff.”
 
Domaine Ferand Girard Sancerre La Garenne 2022 750ml $29 special, 5 bottles available
Importer Note “100% Sauvignon Blanc. ‘La Garenne’ was named for the original 2.5-hectare plot from which it came. Today, the name remains while the fruit may come from across the fifth-generation Girards’ 14 hectares of vines, which are spread over slopes in five communes including Verdigny and Saint Satur and which include three distinct terroirs: gravel soils (caillottes), flint (silex) and heavy clay (grosses terres). The Girards farm sustainably and harvest the steepest slopes by hand and the flatter sites by machine. Parcels are vinified separately–fermented with native yeasts in steel tank–then aged in tank and blended (the US only sees ‘La Garenne’).”
 
JD Pabiot Pouilly Fume Aubaine 2021 750ml $44.50 special, 22 bottles available
Rebecca Gibb MW-Vinous 90 Points “The 2021 Aubaine is aromatic with floral and gooseberry characters. Having spent 18 months in concrete tank on lees and tasted every two weeks to check the condition, it has taken on a richness of texture and breadth that coats the palate. It is suave and ready to enjoy, with a pretty elderflower scent lingering on the medium-length, lightly savory finish.”
 
Roc de L’abbaye Sauvignon Blanc Val de Loire 2022 750ml $19.50 special, 11 bottles available
Wine Enthusiast 92 Points “Classic Loire Sauvignon Blanc. This wine has a well-integrated nose of white peach, green apple, orange and lemon citrus, wild thyme and honeysuckle. Red apple slice and dried grass add depth and complexity along with minerality on the finish.”
 
Vatan Sancerre Clos Neore 2018 1.5L $699 special, 2 bottles available
Rebecca Gibb MW-Vinous 96 Points “Clarity is a term that accurately describes the 2018 Sancerre Clos La Neore. It has a pure and intense core of fruit. But it’s not fruity. It’s a sophisticated style with a distinctive aromatic profile- chamomile tea, lemon, honey, and almond meal and an almost tonic-like edge. While showing the ripeness of the 2018 season, it retains its shape with a corset of acidity and phenolics that guide the wine on and on.”
 
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