In This Newsletter: New Arrivals Produttori del Barbaresco
Aged To Perfection The Wines of Bartolo MascarelloSauvignon Blanc Conquers the World! Sauv Blanc Picks from South Africa to Slovenia
New Arrivals Produttori del Barbaresco
Before the late 19th century, Barbaresco was stuck in Barolo’s shadow. The great vineyards of the Barbaresco region were producing grapes for their famous neighbor and that was about it. Things began to change when a local viticulturalist, Domizio Cavazza, attempted to improve the region’s reputation by becoming part of the greater Barolo region. Although he was denied by the powers that be, Domizio, ever the visionary, had an idea.
What do you do when you are denied a piece of the pie? You make your own pie! Shortly after this realization, Domizio and nine Barbaresco growers formed a cooperative, bottling their own wines and grabbing much attention from Barolo in the years that followed. However, amid the horrors of fascist Italy and the devastation of two world wars, Barbaresco was left in dire straits. Again, the people came together. With nineteen growers this time, the village priest helped to resurrect their Co-op, thus ensuring the survival of this commune. Today Produttori del Barbaresco has 51 growers, many accolades, and remains a testament to the powers of collaboration.Produttori del Barbaresco Montestefano, Barbaresco Riserva DOCG, Italy 2019 1.5L $179 special, 3 magnums availableAntonio Galloni-Vinous 95 Points “The 2019 Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano is perhaps the most complete of the 2019 Riservas at this stage. It offers fine depth, plenty of tannin and nascent emerging inner sweetness to tie it all together. A wine of stature and textural depth, the Montestefano is my early favorite in this lineup.” Produttori del Barbaresco Ovello, Barbaresco Riserva DOCG, Italy 2019 2019 1.5L $179 special, 3 magnums availableAntonio Galloni-Vinous 94 Points “The 2019 Barbaresco Riserva Ovello is powerful, savory and intensely linear, in classico Ovello style, and yet it appears to have enough fruit behind its imposing tannins to develop well over the coming years. In this tasting, the Ovello feels pretty closed post bottling, but its inherent balance and qualities are there. Clean saline notes extend the finish in promising fashion.” Produttori del Barbaresco Rabaja, Barbaresco Riserva DOCG, Italy 2019 1.5L $199 special, 3 magnums availableAntonio Galloni-Vinous 94 Points “The 2019 Barbaresco Riserva Rabajà is redolent of dark fruit, crushed rocks, graphite, sage, menthol and lavender all race across the palate, supported by bracing, young Rabajà tannins that make themselves felt. This mid-weight, powerhouse Barbaresco packs quite a punch.”
Aged to Perfection
The Wines of Bartolo Mascarello
Cantina Bartolo Mascarello has certainly stood the test of time. One of the Barolo’s legends, they are a paragon of traditionalist winemaking. Like many other wineries in the region, they began by producing wine communally with their neighbors, but graduated to estate bottling after World War One decimated the other members of their cooperative . As the years passed, they hued to tradition, eschewing new fads like barrique-aging their wines in French Oak as was popular in the 80’s and 90’s. Bartolo, one of the greatest (and most out-spoken) winemakers in Piedmont’s history declared his feelings on both “modernist” Barolo and Italy’s political landscape with own hand-written notes proclaiming “No Barrique, No Berlusconi” affixed to the bottles. It was these touches of the personal, their small scale that has sustained their quality and reputation over the years. Rather than acquiring new land and vines to up their production volume, the Mascarello family insisted on making wines at a “human scale.” After Bartolo’s death in 2005, his daughter Maria Teresa has taken the reigns, still creating wines of beauty and longevity in the traditional ways of her forbearers. Today we are lucky enough to present these library editions of their wines, as pure as the day they were bottled, now aged to perfection. Bartolo Mascarello Barolo DOCG, Piedmont, Italy 2007 750ml $419 special, 2 bottles availableVinous 97 Points “Mascarello’s 2007 Barolo shows just how compelling this vintage can be, even now. Sensual, layered and totally voluptuous in the glass, the 2007 shows the more flamboyant side of Barolo. I find the wine’s voluptuous, engaging personality impossible to resist. Sure, 2007 is not a classic vintage, but when a wine is this good, I say: Who cares?” Bartolo Mascarello Langhe Nebbiolo, Piedmont, Italy 2016 750ml $128 special, 11 bottles availableAntonio Galloni – Vinous 93 Points “I thought it would be fun to start with something different. The 2016 Langhe Nebbiolo is gorgeous. Bright, vibrant and classically austere – in the best sense of the term – the 2016 is a picture-perfect example of the vintage, but in a slightly more approachable package than is found in the top wines. It’s a terrific introduction to the evening.” Bartolo Mascarello Langhe Nebbiolo, Piedmont, Italy 2017 750ml $128 special, 12 bottles availableAntonio Galloni – Vinous “Sweet dried red cherry, mint, sweet tobacco, orange peel and incense are all lifted in the 2017 Langhe Nebbiolo. Translucent and pretty, the 2017 is a touch ethereal, but there is a good bit of tannic grip. Because of low yields in Barolo, Maria Teresa Mascarello made this wine from purchased grapes from San Rocco Seno d’Elvio, which is in the Barbaresco zone.” Bartolo Mascarello Langhe Nebbiolo, Piedmont, Italy 2018 750ml $119 special, 12 bottles availableAntonio Galloni – Vinous “The 2018 Langhe Nebbiolo offers plenty of charm and immediacy. Dark cherry, spice, tobacco and leather are nicely pushed forward. There is plenty to like in the 2018, even if the Nebbiolo does not reach the heights of the very best editions.” Bartolo Mascarello Langhe Nebbiolo, Piedmont, Italy 2019 750ml $114.50 special, 11 bottles availableAntonio Galloni- Vinous 91 Points “What a joy it is to taste Maria Teresa Mascarello’s 2019 Langhe Nebbiolo. Bright and effusive, with gorgeous fruit presence, the 2019 is a total knock-out. Sweet red cherry, mint, spice, orange peel and licorice all grace this gorgeous, wonderfully expressive Langhe Nebbiolo.” Bartolo Mascarello Langhe Nebbiolo, Piedmont, Italy 2020 750ml $94.50 special, 11 bottles availableAntonio Galloni-Vinous 93 Points “The 2020 Langhe Nebbiolo is sublime. Dark cherry, plum, lavender licorice and crushed flowers infuse the 2020 with striking detail. Fresh and vibrant, with terrific depth and character, the 2020 shows how captiviating this vintage is.”
Sauvignon Blanc Conquers The World
Sauvignon Blanc was born in the Loire Valley, where it has been cultivated since at least the 1500’s. Believed to be a descendant of the Alpine Savagnin grape (still cultivated in Jura for use in local curios like Vin Jaune and Macvin) and more recently parent to the Cabernet Sauvignon grape in Bordeaux, Sauvignon Blanc has proven itself adept in diverse viticultural regions across the globe and has made a happy home in many of our hearts. We have previously talked about our favorite French Sauvignon Blanc wines, today we’re happy to present some of our very favorites from regions as diverse as New Zealand and Slovenia.
Southern Hemisphere
Man Family Wines ‘Warrelwind’ Sauvignon Blanc, Western Cape, South Africa 2023 750ml $11.90 special, 22 bottles availableWinery Note “A refreshing and balanced wine with an abundance of flavors from both sides of the Sauvignon Blanc spectrum. This wine has tropical fruit aromas with just a hint of herbaceousness. Rich tropical fruit on the palate complemented by a crisp and well integrated acidity.” Dog Point Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand 2023 750ml $24 special, 29 bottles availableWine Spectator 94 Points “Lush and expressive, with plenty of concentration to the mix of mango, lemon curd and litsea oil flavors. Details of dried pineapple, candied ginger and crystalized orange zest add complexity and aromatics on the long finish.”
United States
Robert Mondavi Winery Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley, California, USA 2022 750ml $18.50 special, 13 bottles availableWinery Note “A refreshing and balanced wine with an abundance of flavors from both sides of the Sauvignon Blanc spectrum. This wine has tropical fruit aromas with just a hint of herbaceousness. Rich tropical fruit on the palate complemented by a crisp and well integrated acidity.” Peter William Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc, Rogue Valley, Oregon, USA 2022 750ml $21.90 special, 32 bottles availableVinopolnote “Their second vintage of Sauvignon Blanc, this is made in the style of Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc and shows grassy and flinty notes.” Rutherford Hill AJT. Collection Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley, California USA 2022 750ml $21.90 special, 27 bottles availableWine Spectator 94 Points “Stunning, this exuberant, generous version shows notes of passion fruit, Key lime, dried pineapple and orange blossoms, along with grated ginger. Reveals a hint of sea salt minerality on the long, expressive finish, where toasted herb accents linger.”
Germany & Austria
Weingut Tement Grassnitzberg Sauvignon Blanc Erste STK Lage, Steiermark, Austria 2019 750ml $47 special, 18 bottles availableStephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 96 Points “The 2019 Ried Grassnitzberg Sauvignon Blanc is sometimes quite reductive and needs a lot of air, but it is precise, deep and clear. The 2019 is not at all for young-wine or brand drinkers, but for collectors and connoisseurs of demanding wines. This is a tightly knit, taut, big wine that needs around 10 years before its journey really begins.” Von Winning Sauvignon Blanc II – Royale Trocken, Pfalz, Germany 2022 750ml $21.90 special, 36 bottles availableFalstaff Magazine 91 Points “Slightly closed-reductive aroma, spontaneous fermentation. Dense structure, firm acidity and smooth base, very good in freshness and tension. Aromatically restrained but the substance is excellent. Will continue to develop positively.” Slovenia Weingut Tement Domaine Ciringa Fosilni Breg Sauvignon Blanc, Stajerska Slovenia 2021 750ml $24 special, 23 bottles availableWine Advocate 92 Points “The 2021 Sauvignon Blanc Fosilni Breg is the village wine from the Ciringa lieu-dit. Macerated for 12 hours and aged on the full lees for 12 months and then for another six months on the fine lees in 2,400- to 4,000-liter casks, the wine offers an intense and coolish, very spicy and phenolic, even earthy nose with limestone and lemon rind as well as herbal and leafy aromas. Medium to full-bodied on the palate, this is a tight and textured, very elegant and juicy Sauvignon with stimulating bitters on the finish.” Weingut Tement Domaine Ciringa Fosilni Breg Sauvignon Blanc Reserve, Stajerska Slovenia 2018 750ml $34.50 special, 10 bottles availableWine Advocate 93 Points “From a very warm (and humid) year, macerated for 18 hours and aged on the lees for 42 months in a 4,000-liter-oak cask, the 2018 Sauvignon Blanc Fosilni Breg Reserve opens with an intense and concentrated, pretty phenolic bouquet with notes of crushed stones and fresh white and citrus fruits. Full-bodied and creamy yet with positive grip on the palate, this is a mouth-filling, elegant, fresh and linear Sauvignon from the Slovenian side of the Zieregg. It has very good, savory length.”
|
|