Vinopolis Newsletter 7-22-24

 In This Newsletter:

Special Arrival
In The Garden of Earthly Delights

Arrivals
Cappellano, La Gerla, Lisini, GD Vajra, and more!

Newly Reviewed
Berger Gruner Veltliner

Oregon Staff Picks
Three handpicked local wines
 

Special Arrival

 
France
 

Domaine Dagueneau
 


Didier Dagueneau was known as a man who always flew close to the Sun and never succumbed to danger. Instead he laughed at it, in fact ran towards it. So of course after stints as a professional motorcycle racer and dog sledder, among many other dangerous pursuits, he became a winemaker.
 
Didier attacked the wine industry with the same passion he brought to motocross, eventually becoming one of best winemakers in the Loire’s storied history. So many things we take for granted now such as organic viticulture, sans-souffre winemaking, own-rooted vineyards, and natural fermentations were adopted by him experimentally in pursuit of relentless improvement. He always pushed harder to increase the quality of his wines and in time he became one of the top Rockstars in the wine Industry.
 
Like far too many rockstars, he died too soon, crashing his private plane in 2008. Having apprenticed under Didier for years, his son Louis Benjamin took on the family business without missing a beat, in fact surpassing Didier in some critics eyes and taking the wines of the Loire to new heights.
 

These bottles are extremely limited!


Not one prone to humility, Dagueneau named this wine after the Hanging Gardens of Babylon, one of the seven wonders of the ancient world. It is biodynamically farmed and as he says, “self-nourished.”
Didier Dagueneau Les Jardins de Babylone Sec, Jurancon, France 2019 750ml $112 special, 3 bottles available

 

New Arrivals

 

Italy

 

Cappellano
 

 

 
“The Cappellano Barolos remain some of the most classically ethereal, nuanced and elegant wines in all of Piedmont. I never miss a chance to drink them.” –Antonio Galloni
 
Note: This wine was known as “Gabutti” until the current vintage.
Cappellano Barbera d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy 2021 750ml $59 special, 6 bottles available
Antonio Galloni Vinous Many years ago Baldo Cappellano asked me not to score his wines, so all Cappellano wines show up on our database as NR. “The 2021 Barbera d’Alba marries juicy dark fruit with quite a bit of supporting structure. Black cherry, gravel, menthol, licorice, spice and mocha build nicely. The 2021 is deep and mysterious, but also a bit rustic in its contours, with less finesse than is typical of the estate Barbera here. Many years ago Baldo Cappellano asked me not to score his wines, so all Cappellano wines show.”
 
The name is a reference to Vitis Rupestris, the rootstock these vines were grafted onto. This wine was simply labeled as ‘Otin Fiorin’ until vintage 1996.
Cappellano Pie Rupestris, Barolo DOCG, Italy 2019 750ml $245 special, 4 bottles available
Antonio Galloni Vinous Many years ago Baldo Cappellano asked me not to score his wines, so all Cappellano wines show up on our database as NR. The 2019 Barolo Rupestris is elegant, gracious and wonderfully lifted. All the elements are so wonderfully in balance. Crushed red berry fruit, rose petal, mint, blood orange and spice soar out of the glass. Deep and pliant, the Rupestris has an extra level of refinement in 2019 that places it among the most successful wines of the vintage. It’s an absolutely joyous wine from Augusto Cappellano that is also quite open today. I suspect that won’t be the case for long, as the 2019 will likely shut down in bottle soon.”
 

Fattoria La Gerla

 
A blend of their vineyards in Canalicchio and Castelnuovo
La Gerla Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Tuscany, Italy 2019 750ml $59 special, 24 bottles available
Winescritic.com 97 Points “Extremely fragrant and direct in sensory profile, it shows notes of cherries, raspberries, currants, lemon peel, ginger, jasmine, magnolias, gardenias and wild thyme. Juicy and vibrant, it shows a truly viscous and vibrant tannic profile and a finish that will come through in time. What style, what class. Precise and vertical shows the makings of a champion. Better from 2027.”
 
Only made in select years, this comes entirely from a one hectare parcel of old vines from the original Biondi-Santi site.
La Gerla Riserva gli Angeli, Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Italy 2018 750ml $99 special, 12 bottles available
Winescritic.com 95 Points “It shines in the glass with precise, powerful and solid notes of black plums, blackberries, sour cherries, karkadè, lime, wild thyme and marjoram. Medium-full body, perfectly elegant tannins and a highly enveloping finish. Which class. Drink now or grow old.”
Wine Spectator 94 Points “This red is rich and generous for the vintage, offering cherry, plum and rose flavors that show light accents of earth and dusty herbs. Light tannins and lively acidity lend support, and this fades gracefully on the finish.”
 

Azienda Lisini

 
Lisini Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Tuscany, Italy 2019 750ml $64.50 special, 36 bottles available
Wine Spectator 97 Points “Leafy underbrush, earth and dusty mineral notes frame the core of cherry and raspberry flavors in this succulent red, which is supple, with a layer of chewy, chalky tannins coating the finish. Balanced overall, with a long, cherry-infused aftertaste. Best from 2027 through 2043.”

 

Re-Arrival

 
GD Vajra ‘Clare J.C.’ Langhe Nebbiolo, Piedmont, Italy 2022 750ml $21.90 special, 18 bottles available
Eric Guido-Vinous 93 Points “A profoundly complex blend of crushed blackberries, violets, spice orange peels and sage makes the 2022 Nebbiolo Clarè J.C. a total knockout on the nose. Silky and enveloping with a pretty inner sweetness up front, this impresses further as a wave of wild berry fruit and exotic spice slowly saturates the palate. The 2022 finishes lightly structured yet full of mouth-watering tension. Licorice and purple-toned inner florals gradually fade. Its deep red color and tremendous depth make it hard to classify the Clarè J.C. as a Rosé. That said, its drinkability factor is off the charts.”
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 93 Points “This is one of my favorite go-to wines for informal nights with family and friends. The G.D. Vajra 2022 Langhe Nebbiolo Claré J.C. opens to a lean appearance with bright ruby highlights. It remains true to the grape, in simple or almost transparent terms, with fresh berry fruit, cassis, blue flower and iris. I love the punchy, electric quality of this wine and its streamlined approach. You’ll love it too (and love the low shelf price).”
 

Marietta Cellars


Marietta Cellars ‘Christo’, California, USA 2021 750ML $21.90 special, 26 bottles available
Erine Brooks-Wine Advocate 93 Points “The 2021 Christo is a blend of 68% Syrah, 20% Grenache, 8% Petite Sirah and 4% Viognier. The nose features fresh blackcurrant and blueberry aromas with tones of cast iron, violet, sagebrush and conifer. The full-bodied palate is chalky and refreshing with restrained, mineral-driven fruit and a long, perfumed finish. Give it 2-3 years in bottle or a couple hours in a decanter.”

Marietta Cellars OVR Old Vine Red NV California, USA 750ml $18 special 36+ bottles available
Erin Brooks-Wine Advocate 93 Points “The NV Old Vine Red Lot 74 is primarily Zinfandel, with some Syrah, Petite Sirah, Carignan, Grenache and Barbera. Spicy and easy to drink, it has aromas of red and black cherries, mint, bitter chocolate and allspice with earthy undertones. The medium-bodied palate is finely chalky and refreshing, with spicy fruit and an easygoing finish. This will be enjoyable with almost any dish at the table and, as always, overdelivers for the price.”

Marietta Cellars ‘Roman’ Estate Grown Zinfandel, North Coast, USA 2021 750ml $24 special, 17 bottles available 
Erin Brooks-Wine Advocate 95 Points “The 2021 Román Zinfandel is juicy, alluring and easy to drink without sacrificing complexity, offering tremendous quality for its modest price. Blended with 4% Petite Sirah and 4% Barbera, the nose is bursting with kaleidoscopic yellow peaches, strawberries and raspberries plus nuances of sage, aniseed and Angostura bitters. The medium-bodied palate has a finely chalky frame, fireworks of fresh acidity and generous layers of spicy fruit that call you back for another sip.”

 

Newly Reviewed Wine

 
This is one of our favorite party wines. Always a crowd-pleaser, Erich Berger’s quality is starting to pick up more attention from critics as well.
Berger Gruner Veltliner, Niederosterreich, Austria 2023 1L $18 special, 36+ magnums available
Kerry Winslow – Grape Live 90 Points “As always the case, the Weingut Berger One Liter, easy opening Grüner Veltliner has a vibrantly fresh and classic array of fruit flavors and a steely mineral essence, with a light to medium body showing lemon/lime, white peach, a whiff of wild fennel and white blossoms, along with wet stone, white pepper, a touch of tropical essences, bitter almond and herb accents. Easy and quaffable, the basic Berger Grüner by Erich Berger has become a must have for Summer and it is an awesome party, picnic and beach sipper, it is also a solid companion to most sea foods and salads with artichokes. This 2023 is an exceptional version, punching way above what you’d expect for the price and giving some good insight on what you’d like to know about the vintage along the Danube, which shows promise. Along with this fine effort, I enjoyed a selection of Berger’s latest releases, which included a fabulous set of 2022 Ried Spiegel Vineyard Rieslings, a very notable Kremstal Gedersdorfer Lössterrassen Grüner Valtliner and the lovely and crisp 2023 perfumed dry Gelber Muskateller, a sleeper in the lineup. This 12.5% zesty 1L bottle of Grüner is superb and is a quality guilt free white wine that should be a perfect refresher during these hotter than normal days we’ve been experiencing.”
-Grapelive: Wine of the Day July 15, 2024

 

Oregon Staff Picks

 
Westrey Justice Vineyard Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills, USA 2014 750ml $44.50 special, 24 bottles available
Vinopolnote “With a ten year old Willamette wine, I was worried it might be knocking on Heaven’s door, but in a simple twist of fate this wine is forever young. I should have known… for top notch Burgundy varietals from masters like Westrey, time passes slowly. Like a tart cherry liqueur tangled up in a blueberry bush, this wine is refined, and in its prime. If you’re looking for a local bottle with some age on it, don’t think twice, it’s more than all right… it’s drinking great!”
 
Evesham Wood Blanc du Puits Sec, Eola-Amity Hills, USA 2023 750ml $18 special, 28 bottles available
Vinopolnote “Hmm. I need a crowd-pleasing white wine for this seafood/chicken/spicy thai food I’m cooking for my friends two of whom are committed chardonnay haters. If only there was a high quality Alsatian style white blend that could satisfy all these conditions… wait, you’re telling me one of my fave Willamette wineries produces a Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer, Kerner, Rieslaner, and Gruner Veltliner blend? Shut up and take my money!”
 
Coquina Trousseau, Eola-Amity Hills, USA 2022 750ml $21.90 special, 10 bottles available
Vinopolnote “Chill this wine down. Nope, colder than that… OK, perfect. This is a refreshing wine for hot days. Pair it with BBQ or hotdogs, it can take it the heat. Notes of medicinal cherry make this beverage go down easily, while the brisk acidity cleanses the palette nicely. Tannin fans need not apply, but if natural wines and the wines from regions like Alto-Adige and Savoie are your jam, this will make you boogie.”

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Thank you from the team at Vinopolis!
Be well & drink well.