Vinopolis Newsletter 3-24-25

In This Newsletter:


Arrivals
Marcus Goodfellow, Comte Lafon, Jean Philipe Fichet, and more!

Women Winemakers We love
Caroline Frey of Jaboulet

 
New Arrivals
 
 
Oregon
 
The Sparkling wines of Marcus Goodfellow


 
Marcus Goodfellow is one of the most talented winemakers in Oregon. We count ourselves lucky to have had a strong relationship with his winery since its early days under the old name of Matello. He is joined by the equally talented and knowledgeable Megan Joy.
 
Their wines showcase their deep understanding of the terroirs of the Willamette Valley. Together, they craft wines that continually improve—both in the cellar and vintage to vintage. We love the wines for their coiled power and Burgundian structure, and we stack them enthusiastically & abundantly in our own personal cellars to adore for decades to come.
 
We’re excited to offer their sparkling wines, a new range that reflects their deep love and admiration for precise and mineral grower Champagne. According to Marcus, they created sparkling wines partly for the challenge, partly because of their proclivities for low-alcohol-yielding sites, and partly because of their love of grower Champagne. The wines are all multi-vintage with significant portions of reserve wines that aged on the lees for up to almost three years. These are terroir-driven works of art from two of the Valley’s finest winemakers.
 
Don’t miss any of Goodfellow’s releases from Tsai Vineyard, a new-to-the-winery vineyard in a cool north-western pocket of the Yamhill-Carlton. Surrounded by forest and orchards, this vineyard was planted on volcanic soils, which is unusual for the AVA. It is dry farmed, LIVE certified, transitioning to organic, and is home to some of the oldest own-rooted vines in the Willamette Valley.
Goodfellow Tsai Blanc De Noir NV 750ml $54.50 special, 24 bottles available
 
This is the only listing in the country!

This brut nature Methode Champenoise is made from 100% Pinot Gris… this wine is beyond cool. It’s like nothing else being made in the Willamette Valley.
Goodfellow Whistling Ridge Blanc De Gris NV 750ml $47.50 special, 24 bottles available
 
This is the only listing in the country!
 
Winery note: 64% Riesling, 20% Pinot Noir, 12 Pinot Blanc, and Gewurtztraminer from Whistling Ridge planted, harvested, and vinified together. Dry-farmed.
Goodfellow Whistling Ridge Blanc 2023 750ml $19 special, 36+ bottles available
 
…also currently available from Goodfellow:
 
Winery Note “Comprised of 67% Chardonnay and 33% Pinot Noir, from vintages 2019-2022. Elevage is a range of larger format French oak and Acacia puncheons. This is an early disgorgement, but the wine contains a significant percentage of reserve wines aged 30 months or longer on lees in puncheon. My favorite things about this wine are its refinement, layering, and integration.
Goodfellow Family Cellars Durant Vineyard Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut, Dundee Hills, USA NV 750ml $49 special, 14 bottles available
Eric Guido-Vinous 92 Points “Dusty florals and spices give way to yellow apples and hints of iodine as the NV Extra Brut evolves in the glass. Soothingly round and textured, it sweeps across the palate with ripe orchard fruits and a bead of creamy bubbles. This finishes remarkably clean and pure, leaving a resonance of ripe Anjou pear to linger on. The balance here is unreal. Dosage is 2.5 grams per liter.”
 
Lowest prince on the West Coast
 
Winery Note “100% Chardonnay from volcanic clay soils. Durant is East facing, and the bulk of this wine is from older vines (1993) planted at the foot of the hill.

Goodfellow Willamette Valley Extra Brut NV 750ml $49 special, 14 bottles available
Eric Guido-Vinous 94 Points “A vivid blend of ripe apples and pears, sweet sage and honeyed florals form an enticing bouquet as the NV Blanc de Blancs Durant blossoms in the glass. This displays immaculate balance, mixing ripe pit fruits and sweet spice with flinty minerals over a luxuriously creamy bead of bubbles. It finishes with admirable length and concentration, adding grip to the finish as enriching notes of raw almond fade slowly. The Durant is a blend of the 2019 and 2021 vintages.”
 
 
France
 
Jean-Philippe Fichet
 
“As I have said repeatedly, the Fichet wines are among the very best and purest in Burgundy.” -Allen Meadows, Burghound
 
Listen. These kinds of superlatives from the above critic are hard to come by. He is, in fact, one of the hardest, least effusive wine critics out there, so when even he likes it, you can be sure that this producer, Jean-Philippe Fichet, is the real deal.
 
Jean-Philippe has brought a new level of terroir-focused experimentation and study to Meursault. Polaner imports describes his style as “textured, racy, and electric wines without artifice,” which is the perfect way to describe these stellar bottles. They are a balanced version of Meursault, vivacious and giving without indulgence.
 
 staff pick  Importer’s Note “Fichet’s Aligoté is among the most energetic in the Cote d’Or. Sourced primarily from vines in the village of Meursault, this wine is zippy, clean and fresh with aromas of green apple and lime on the nose.”
Fichet Bourgogne Aligote, Burgundy, France 2023 750ml $33 special, 11 bottles available
Burghound Tasting note “Bright and fresh aromas of citrus and green apple lead to spicy middleweight flavors that are at once rich and succulent while delivering good if not special length on the bitter lemon-inflected finish. Note that this delicious effort has enough material to repay a few years of aging.”
 
Importer’s Note “Based on three beautifully situated parcels on the southern slopes of the village: les Cloux (60-year-old vines); les Chaumes de Narvaux, just above Bouchères and Gouttes d’Or; Limouzin, directly below Genevrières, plus a little Criots.”
Fichet Meursault, Cote de Beaune, France 2022 750ml $99 special, 15 bottles available
Neal Martin-Vinous 90 Points “The 2022 Meursault Village has a lively struck flint- and petrichor-tinged bouquet, demonstrating good vigor, quite Puligny-like in style. The palate is fresh on the entry with just a touch of mint. There’s fine extract here, with ample weight and a pleasant, waxy texture on the finish. Recommended. Tasted at merchants’ 2022 Burgundy tastings in London.”
 
Domaine des Heritiers du Comte Lafon
 
Dominique Lafon took over his family estate in Meursault, Domaine des Comte Lafon, in 1984 and within a few short years, his wines were some of the most prized in Burgundy. Moving from success to success, he founded his new biodynamic winery in 1999 Héritiers (meaning “inheritors” in French) in part to pass his knowledge and legacy to the next generation of the Lafon family, the future “héritiers” of the estate.
 
Domaine des Heritiers du Comte Lafon Macon Chardonnay Clos de la Crochette, Burgundy, France 2023 1.5L $99 special, only 2 magnums available
Neal Martin-Vinous 91 Points “The 2023 Mâcon-Chardonnay Clos de la Crochette has one of the best aromatics of the range: crushed stone, sea cave and light Granny Smith scents with good focus. The palate is well balanced with a crisp entry. This has fine weight and density but is more backward and perhaps befits a couple of years in bottle.”
 
Domaine des Heritiers du Comte Lafon Macon Milly-Lamartine, Burgundy, France 2023 1.5L $89 special, only 2 magnums available
Jasper Morris 89-90 Points “From foudre. This one had finished fermenting. Mid lemon yellow a mix of apples and pears on the nose. More generous than usual but still with its more typical white fruit with some minerals. Fine length. Drink from 2024-2026. Tasted Mar 2024.”
 
 
Women Winemakers We Love!
 
 
Carline Frey of Domaine Paul Jaboulet

 
Caroline Frey, a passionate advocate for sustainable viticulture, combines her scientific background with deep respect for historic vineyard terroirs. After earning top honors from the University of Oenology in Bordeaux, she revitalized Château La Lagune in 2004 and became the winemaker at Paul Jaboulet Aîné in 2006, continuing its Rhône Valley legacy. Founded in 1834, Jaboulet quickly gained renown for its exceptional Syrah-based wines, particularly the iconic Hermitage La Chapelle. Named after the Saint Christophe chapel overlooking Hermitage Hill, this flagship wine reflects a rich history dating back to the Albigensian Crusades, when a knight named Gaspard de Stérimberg lived there as a hermit. This revered terroir is known for producing Syrah of unparalleled complexity, characterized by regal savoriness, blue florals, and layered fruit.
 
Caroline’s commitment to eco-friendly practices has played a pivotal role in preserving this esteemed winemaking tradition. Her belief that “great grapes make great wine” drove her to champion sustainable viticulture, earning Domaines Paul Jaboulet Aîné organic certification in 2016. Her environmental dedication has been recognized with numerous accolades, including the Chevalier of the National Order of Merit and the Officer of Agricultural Merit. Under her stewardship, Jaboulet continues to stand in a class of its own, producing wines that honor the region’s storied past while safeguarding its future.
 
Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle 2017 750ml $189 special, 19 bottles available
Joe Czerwinski-Wine Advocate 98 Points “The 2017 Hermitage La Chapelle comes from the firm’s vineyards on the western half of the Hermitage slope, primarily Le Méal, but with substantial contributions from Les Rocoules and Les Bessards. Classic notes of cassis, black olives, mocha and roasted meat are joined by hints of baking spices in a wine that’s full-bodied, deep, dense and rich, with a velvety texture and a lingering finish. It’s lower in alcohol than the 2018, less voluptuous and maybe just a step behind that monumental wine, but it’s still a serious collectible with three decades of evolution ahead of it.-JC”
James Suckling 98 Points “The icon is in dangerously seductive form. Such pristine dark cherries, blackberries and dark plums, dark chocolate, finely crushed spices and plenty of crushed dark stones on offer. The palate is very intense, very slick and fine tannins deliver an almost playfully soft impression. The oak is super integrated. Like La Maison Bleue, this approachability is an aberration, as it has immense power, concentration and length with such regal and alluring swagger at the finish. But there is so much more to come. Try from 2024, better after 2030.”
 
Jaboulet Hermitage La Chapelle 2019 750ml $199 special, 34 bottles available
Joe Czerwinski-Wine Advocate 98-100 Points “Might this be the next vintage of La Chapelle to crack triple digits? Knockout aromas of crushed stone, violets, blueberries, and cassis mark the nose of the 2019 Hermitage La Chapelle, while the full-bodied palate is undeniably more intense and powerful than the more elegant 2018. Rich and velvety, it coats the mouth with dark fruit and creamy-textured espresso, yet retains remarkable length and licorice-derived peppery freshness on the finish. Wow!”
Jeb Dunnuck 97 Points “Showing even better than when I tasted it last year, the 2019 Hermitage La Chapelle is another ripe, powerful, sexy, and full-bodied example of this cuvée that brings classic La Chapelle gamey darker fruits as well as smoked meats, chocolate, sandalwood, and peppery spice. Full-bodied on the palate, it has good concentration, lots of ripeness, polished tannins, and a great, great finish. As with the 2018, it’s opened up beautifully on the palate since I tasted it at the domaine and is a ripe, expansive, pure, beautiful Hermitage.”