Vinopolis Newsletter 12-31-24

 

Scintillating. Stunning. Sublime.
 

 

There are simply not enough alliterative superlatives to bestow upon Champagne Salon. From multiple plots in Mesnil-Sur-Oger, this wine’s secret ingredient is the exclusive, single hectare plot known as the “Salon Garden” which has fed this cuvee across every vintage in its storied history.
 
Salon Cuvee ‘S’ Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs Brut, Champagne 2013 750ml $1,275 special, 2 bottles available
Antonio Galloni-Vinous 99 points “The 2013 is the most powerful, dense young Salon I have ever tasted. Champagne of mind-bending complexity, the 2013 possesses tremendous midpalate intensity and power from the very first taste. Lemon confit, dried flowers, mint and a touch of brioche appear first, followed by light tropical accents that add an exotic flair. Imagine the sizzling energy of the 2008 and the persistence of 2004, with more mid-palate richness and riper fruit. Two-thousand thirteen was a cool, late ripening year. Harvest started at the beginning of October under sunny, dry days and cool nights, conditions that have not been seen since then. Readers will find a spectacular, modern Salon endowed with tremendous depth and very little of the youthful austerity that once defined Champagnes from cooler years here. The 5.5 grams per liter of dosage is perfectly judged. In a word: Magnificent.”

 

 
 
California
 

 
“Ashes & Diamonds, ‘a love letter to the Napa Valley of the 1960s,’ has set out to revive this storied era’s pioneering energy. Kashy Khaledi has built a winery driven by collaboration, seeking the participation of Napa’s great contemporary voices in viticulture and enology. Kashy was compelled to investigate the nuances of the vineyard’s original plantings, Cabernet Franc and Merlot from 1986, and has meticulously done so through organic farming and restrained winemaking—with Steve Matthiasson and Diana Snowden-Seysses at the helm.” –Skurnik Wines & Spirits
 
“A rather pretty nose of roses, crushed red cherries and chopped herbs. Medium-bodied with gentle tannins. Fresh and juicy on the palate, with some moss and wet-stone notes coming through as well. Succinct and focused. Drink now.” –James Suckling
 
 HOT DEAL!  Ashes & Diamonds ‘Mountain Cuvee’ Saffron Vineyard, Mount Veeder, USA 2019 750ml $36 special, 32 bottles available
Jim Gordon-Wine Enthusiast 93 Points “This well-proportioned wine blended from Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon offers good black-fruit flavors, nice hints of cinnamon and toasted oak, and a slightly firm texture due to fine-grained tannins and balancing acidity. It’s an elegant wine that won’t tire you out.”
 

 

Washington
 
Charles Smith K Vintners The Deal Sundance Vineyard Syrah, Columbia Valley, USA 2021 750ml $32.50 special, 21 bottles available
James Suckling 96 Points “Rich, fruity and generous, but also spicy, smoky and well-braced by acidity and moderate tannins. It’s a syrah that has it all, deep blackberry and blueberry flavors laced with white pepper, singed rosemary and black cherries that expand on the palate and linger on the finish. Drinkable now, but best from 2028.
 

Average listed price is $35

 
Klipsun Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Mountain, USA 2022 750ml $54.50 special, 12 bottles available
Not reviewed yet. 2020 review provided for context.
Anthony Mueller-Wine Advocate 95 Points “With 4% Merlot added to the 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain, the nose is big and juicy, erupting from the glass with a hedonistic profile. Hints of coconut macaroon and crème brûlée linger over the robust fruit-forward finish, accompanied by lasting flavors of black raspberry and blueberry tartlet with an intense vanilla expression. Give it time; your patience will be rewarded. The wine aged for 20 months in 100% new oak and spent an additional 14 months in the bottle. A total of 9,804 bottles were produced.”
Winery Notes “76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Merlot, 7% Syrah, 1% Malbec. The 2022 growing season in Red Mountain was characterized by a cold and wet spring, a brief but hot summer, and a warm fall. The 2022 growing season resulted in expressive high quality wines with high yields. This vintage marks the first to feature Cabernet from our newest vineyard block, planted with our preferred Cabernet clone, FPS-4, sourced from Terlato Family vineyards in Napa.”
 
 
Champagne

 

Bereche Brut Reserve, Champagne, France NV 750ml $69 special, 36+ bottles available
Antonio Galloni-Vinous “The NV Brut Réserve (base 2021) is a bit unusual in this release, in that reserve wines account for 45% of the blend because the base year was so challenging. It’s an approach that worked out well though, as the finished wine is gorgeous. Pear, apricot, white flowers, spice, mint and almond all grace this nuanced, classy NV Champagne. Floral overtones appear later to lift the finish. Dosage is 5.2 grams per liter.”

 
“The style of Benoit’s low- and zero-dosage wines is intense, urgent and energetic, with beautiful tension and fine minerality. Though production is miniscule – less than 4,000 bottles – fellow vignerons and wine professional are taking note of Benoit’s work, earning him an enthusiastic underground following. He has quickly established himself as a vigneron to watch in one of France’s most dynamic and progressive wine growing regions.” -Polaner Imports
 
Benoit Dehu ‘La Rue des Noyers’, Champagne, France NV (2019) 750ml $119 special, 12 bottles available
Antonio Galloni-Vinous 94 Points “The NV (2019) Cuvée La Rue des Noyers is a gorgeous, beautifully understated wine. Citrus confit, mint, white pepper and slate are beautifully lifted in this striking, precise Champagne. As always, the Rue des Noyers is an especially savory Meunier. This is not the most obvious or overt Meunier out there, but it is among the most fascinating because of its dynamic energy and overall complexity.”
 
Benoit Dehu ‘Initiation’ Rose Brut Nature, Champagne, France NV (2021) 750ml $99 special, 12 bottles available
Antonio Galloni-Vinous 91 Points “The (2021) Extra Brut Rosé Cuvée Initiation is superb. Here, the addition of 7% still red Pinot fills out the mid-palate and gives the wine some of the textural presence that is missing in the Blanc de Blancs bottling. Chalk, cranberry, mint and white pepper build into the tense, sinewy finish.”
 
Benoit Dehu ‘La Rue des Noyers’, Champagne, France NV (2016) 1.5L $269 special, 6 bottles available
Not reviewed yet, review based on 2015 disgorgement provided for context
Antonio Galloni-Vinous 94 Points “The NV (2015) Extra Brut Cuvée La Rue des Noyers speaks with real authority, and yet the 2015 is one of the more delicate versions of this cuvée so far. Time in the glass allows the wine to blossom nicely. Dried pear, smoke, herbs and dried flowers fill out the wine’s creamy frame effortlessly. Once again, the Rue des Noyers is one of the most distinctive wines in Champagne. Dosage is 1 grams per liter.”
 
Benoit Dehu Cuvee de L’Orme, Champagne, France NV (2019) 750ml $159 special, 6 bottles available
Antonio Galloni-Vinous 93 Points “The 2019 Brut Nature Blanc de Noirs L’Orme, Dehu’s 100% Pinot Noir, is quite the extrovert in this vintage. A rush of red-toned fruit, spice, crushed flowers, mint and tangerine peel makes a strong opening statement. Bold and effusive, the 2019 is long on personality. Time in the glass brings out the wilder, gamier side of Pinot Noir to round things out. Disgorged: January 25, 2024.”
 

 
Savart Expression Premiere Cru Brut Nature, Champagne, France 2018 1.5L $475 special, 3 magnums available
Importer’s Note “Savart’s “Expression” is Fred’s most limited wine with only 400 bottles produced. It is made from 100% old-vine Pinot Noir from the lieux-dits of Aillys, Chaillots derriere, Moutier, and Gillys where the soils are argilo-calcaire. These vineyards are not far from Le Mont des Chretiens. It is fermented in 500L barrels and ages for 10 months sur lie. It is always a single vintage and zero dosage.”
 
Savart ‘Haute Couture’ Grand Cru Extra Brut, Champagne, France 2019 1.5L $499 special, 3 magnums available
Importer’s Note “A new cuvée in 2016 that blends 100% Chardonnay from two Cote de Blancs villages: Le Mesnil and Oger. Limited production. 350L barrels, no malo. 10 months in barrel. Dosage 2.5 g/L.”
 
Frederic Savart Le Mont Benoit Premier Cru Extra Brut, Champagne, France 2020 750ml $169 special, 12 bottles available
Importer’s Note “Le Mont Benoit (made a household name by Emmanuel Brochet) is a single parcel in Villers-aux-Noeuds. Fred’s plot is 95% Pinot Noir, and 5% Chardonnay. The dosage is 3g/L.”
 
Frederic Savart Le Mont des Chretiens Premier Cru Extra Brut, Champagne, France 2020 750ml $169 special, 11 bottles available
Importer’s Note “Le Mont des Chrétiens is a lieu dit in the village Ecueil. The parcel is entirely of Chardonnay and Fred ferments and ages it in 500L barrels. The dosage is 3g/L.”
 
 
France
 
Domaine Tempier Bandol Rouge Lulu & Lucien Rouge, Provence, France 2022 1.5L $135 special, 3 magnums available
La Revue du Vin de France 94 points “Lulu et Lucien (in homage to the estate’s founders) is a lacy entry-level cuvee: delicate on the nose, harmonious on the palate, fine overall, this is the cuvee to open while waiting for the others… (2025)”
 
Domaine Tempier Cuvee Cabassaou Bandol, Provence, France 2022 750ml $128 special, 6 magnums available
La Revue du Vin de France 97 points “Cabassaou delivers the true etofée of Mourvèdre, with tannins that are still prominent, punctuated by a saline freshness pulsating from the heart of the clay-limestone soil. A distinctive style, a racy wine, a great Bandol for the next two decades.”
 

Italy
 

 
Produttori del Barbaresco ‘Paje’, Barbaresco Riserva DOCG, Italy 2019 750ml $89 special, 26 bottles available
Antonio Galloni-Vinous 93 Points “The 2019 Barbaresco Riserva Pajè is full of character. Strong mineral, savory and floral notes jump out of the glass, before veins of tannin make themselves felt on the palate. A powerful, young Barbaresco, the Pajè is going to need a number of years to come into its own. That said, all of its signatures are very much present.”
 
Produttori del Barbaresco Montestefano, Barbaresco Riserva DOCG, Italy 2019 750ml $89 special, 8 bottles available
Antonio Galloni-Vinous 95 Points “The 2019 Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano is perhaps the most complete of the 2019 Riservas at this stage. It offers fine depth, plenty of tannin and nascent emerging inner sweetness to tie it all together. A wine of stature and textural depth, the Montestefano is my early favorite in this lineup.”
 
Produttori del Barbaresco Rio Sordo, Barbaresco Riserva DOCG, Italy 2019 750ml $85 special, 17 bottles available
Antonio Galloni-Vinous 93 Points “The 2019 Barbaresco Riserva Rio Sordo is quite deep in this vintage, with notable depth in its dark-toned fruit. This is an especially powerful Rio Sordo that is still coming together. Its intensity is palpable, even if I see less of the finesse that I associate with wines from this site. Today, all of the wine’s energy is directed inwards.”
 

 
Nino Franco Rustico, Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG, Italy NV 750ml $21.90 special, 22 bottles available
Kerin O’Keefe-Wine Enthusiast 94 Points “[Reviewed November 2021] This lovely sparkler never disappoints. It’s fragrant, with delicate scents of white spring flowers and white stone fruits while the dry, refreshing palate offers ripe pear, apple and white peach alongside a hint of fennel seed. An elegant perlage and fresh acidity provide the backdrop.”
 

Lowest listed price on the West Coast

 

Portugal
 
Kopke Vintage Port, Portugal 2016 750ml $89 special, 9 bottles available
Wine Enthusiast 96 Points “This is a luscious wine, with tannins that are cushioned by the ripe plum and prune fruits. That doesn’t mean it is likely to develop too quickly, but is ready to take its time, bringing out the opulent character of the wine as well as its structure. Drink from 2028. -Roger Voss”
Neal Martin-Vinous 93 Points “The 2016 Kopke has a ripe black cherry, boysenberry, star anis scented bouquet that feels tight, broody but powerful. The palate is medium-bodied with black cherries, bilberry, salted liquorice and a touch of white pepper. This is very cohesive and pure, one of the most elegant Kopke releases from barrel that I have encountered. Take this very seriously.”
 
Kopke Colheita Tawny Port, Portugal 1967 750ml $249 special, 3 bottles available
Mark Squires-Wine Advocate 95 Points “The 1967 Colheita Tawny Port comes in with 142 grams per liter of residual sugar. This is a nice step up compared to the younger parts of the lineup, elegant and focused, with a precise finish, a fresh feel, little discernible brandy and a long, long finish. The classic old tawny flavors of molasses and caramel wash over the palate. This isn’t big and thick, but some may very well prefer its elegant and brighter feel. In many ways, it is fresher than the 1981 or 1999 reviewed this issue, and it is better balanced than the 1937. It is very pretty.”
 
Kopke Colheita Tawny, Portugal 1957 750ml $489 special, 5 bottles available
Harriet Kininmonth-IWSC 98 Points “Still showing elegance and incredible complexity when considering the age. Soft and mellow, loaded with ripe soft stone fruit. Harmonious yet still has austere delights to savour. Still has development to come.”
Mark Squires-Wine Advocate 95 Points “The 1957 Colheita Tawny Port was seen before, but it’s worth revisiting in the USA, since it’s a great wine. This is also the new 2015 bottling. It has 127 grams per liter of residual sugar. It is stunning how youthful this is. Lush and rich on opening, it has mature flavors that emerge, easily demonstrating the complexity and concentrated aromatics one expects. Gripping on the finish, this delivers fruit flavor and seems to linger indefinitely. When I first saw this, it was tasted next to even more brilliant Colheitas and a bit overshadowed. On its own, it is even more stunning. It was pretty fine next to some other greats here as well.”