Vinopolis Newsletter 11-22-24

 

Oregon
 

 

 

“Marcus Goodfellow is sourcing fruit from some of the finest vineyards in Willamette… dry farmed and from old vineyards planted to an array of clones. We visited the old, gnarled vines at Durant vineyard in Dundee Hills, planted with Pinot Noir in 1973 and with Chardonnay in 1993, and the Whistling Ridge Vineyard in Ribbon Ridge, planted in 1990. ‘Old vines are still the trump card,’ he says. ‘The vines situate themselves to the site. The old vines give wines that are ethereal, elegant, layered and don’t speak too loud.’ The wines combine layers of pure, ripe fruit, earth and amaro-like aromatics.” -Erin Brooks, writing for the Wine Advocate
 
Library Release!
Goodfellow Family Cellars Bishop Creek Vineyard Pinot Noir, Oregon, USA 2015 750ml $41.90 special, 24 bottles available
Vineyard Note “This vineyard was first planted to ungrafted rootstock in 1988 on tight 5×5 rows of three Pinot Noir clones (Pommard, Wädenswil, 777) in north-south facings blocks. This iconic site in the northern reaches of Yamhill-Carlton also features high-elevation Chardonnay clones (76, 95, 548) on the upper-bench of the property on rootstock dating back to the late 1990’s. Dramatic elevation changes, rugged growing conditions and an extremely low water table has pushed root systems deep (30-40’) into the porous and nutritionally deficient marine sedimentary soils of the Eocene Era and alluvial sands of the Missoula floods to produce wines of profound texture and immense structure. Nicolas-Jay Estate acquired Bishop Creek in 2014.” –Nicolas-jay.com
 
 hot deal  Goodfellow Family Cellars ‘Vin Soif’ Chardonnay, McMinnville, USA 2023 750ml $21.90 special, 36+ bottles available
Winery Note “Yellow apple, pear, lime flower and peel, almonds, hints of tarragon and pastry dough. In the mouth, it’s more yellow apples and pear, underripe nectarine, lime peel, and a distinct stoniness. Bottled a year early from our normal Chardonnay program, the impetus for this wine was to push for a pretty, nervy, and slightly less lees inflected wine for everyday enjoyment. 12.0% abv and 198 cases produced.”
 
 hot deal  Goodfellow Family Cellars Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, USA 2021 750ml $21.90 special, 36+ bottles available
Winery Note “The 2021 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir shows aromatics of sweet dark strawberry, boysenberry and black cherry fruits. On the palate more dark black and red fruits, coffee, floral, and amaro notes, and an overlying savory, dark and wild spice and kitchen herb. Tannins are fine, but firm on the finish, and the palate is juicy and medium-light bodied. As with all of our Pinot Noirs, fermentations are 100% whole cluster, and relatively cool and slow, with native yeast in small 1.5 ton bins, and free run wine goes directly into barrel where it sits on the lees undisturbed for the duration of elevage. Cooperage is a mixture of new and used larger format (500L) puncheons, and neutral barriques.”
 
Goodfellow Temperance Hill Chardonnay, Eola-Amity Hills, USA 2021 750ml $59 special, 12 bottles available
Audrey Frick-Jeb Dunnuck 96 Points “The 2021 Chardonnay Temperance Hill is incredible in its aromatics for lovers of well-managed reduction. Bright golden-yellow, it’s flush with flint wet stones, vibrant citrus, and golden pineapple. Full-bodied, with a core of driving citrus and energetic acidity, it has a long and saline finish, with a weightless feel and elegant balance. It has a lovely, rounded edge to its acidity and does not come across as harsh. This is an outstanding and age-worthy wine to drink 2025-2035.”
 
Goodfellow Family Cellars Temperance Hill Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills, USA 2022 750ml $49 special, 12 bottles available
Winery Note “Cedar and tobacco, mulberry, black raspberry, fresh ground coffee, graphite, flint and stone. The black and red fruits are there, but with so much mineral intertwined and flowing through. More forward aromatically than our wines sometimes are at this age, it’s elegant, medium bodied, with finesse in the mid-palate and then shifts into a sturdier finish with fine tannins that show good depth with modest astringency.”
 
Goodfellow Family Cellars Pumphouse Block Temperance Hill Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills, USA 2022 750ml $54.50 special, 12 bottles available
Winery Note “From the steep east-facing slope on the far side of Temperance Hill. One to wait for, but absolutely worth it in the end. On first opening very tight, with tart red fruits and tannic structure on the palate that seems to overwhelm everything that came before. Then with a day or two open the wine blossoms: phenomenal texture and richness of weight, aromatics of lilac, five spice, cedar, cinnamon and rose petals, more cedar and cigar box, richer red fruits, wet stones…. hold for now, but the payout will be excellent.”
 
Goodfellow West Field Temperence Pinot NoirEola-Amity Hills, USA 2022 750ml $54.50 special, 12 bottles available
Jeb Dunnuck 97 Points “Also coming from Temperance Hill, the 2022 Pinot Noir West Field was raised in puncheons and pours a youthful red hue. It has a woodsy aromatic profile, with notes of pine, toasted spice, ripe, crystalline cherries, blood orange, and a sanguine lift on the nose. It reveals a good deal of depth and intensity on the palate, with a saturating, medium-bodied feel. It has a chiseled and dark mineral profile that lasts through the finish. Haunting and fantastic, this remarkable offering is going to be an impressive wine with great longevity. Drink 2025-2040.”
 

New Arrivals
 

 
Podere Poggio Scalette
 

Winebow, importer: “Il Carbonaione, Poggio Scalette’s signature wine, is the culmination of knowledge and experience and therefore an important message of quality. Vittorio Fiore dedicates this wine to Tuscany and to Sangiovese — the region and the variety that have allowed him to fulfill his aspirations to produce superb wine.”
Poggio Scalette ‘Il Carbonaione’  Alta Valle della Greve IGT, Tuscany, Italy, 2010 750ml $89 special, 12 bottles available
Antonio Galloni-Vinous 97 Points “The 2010 Carbonaione (Sangiovese) is a stunner. Deep, rich and utterly impeccable, the 2010 boasts breathtaking richness, energy and power. The flavors remain incredibly primary in a wine that will require years to develop. Graphite, crushed rocks, blue/black fruit, plums and smoke emerge over time. As phenomenal as the 2010 is today, it really should be cellared for at least a few years. This is a drop dead gorgeous wine from Vittorio and Jurij Fiore.”


California

#25 WINE SPECTATOR’S TOP 100 OF 2024 
Rutherford Hill Merlot, Napa Valley, USA 2021 750ml $31.90 special, 24 bottles available
Wine Spectator 93 Points “Supple and sleek, with elegantly layered red currant, toasty mocha and tarragon flavors that glide on a long finish. Drink now through 2031. 10,489 cases made.”
 

Lowest listed price on the West Coast

 
Oregon
 

 
Purple Hands Freedom Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, USA 2022 750ml $69 special, 6 bottles available
Jeb Dunnuck 97 Points “A richer reflective ruby hue, the 2022 Pinot Noir Freedom Hill Vineyard is a savory wine with notes of wet stones, graphite, pine, fresh black cherries, mixed berries, and tea leaf. It is very appealing on the palate early on. with refined tannins and a juicy feel. It’s very attractive now, and it’s not going to slow down any time soon. Drink 2024-2040.”
 
Purple Hands Latchkey Vineyard Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills, USA 2022 750ml $64.50 special, 6 bottles available
Jeb Dunnuck 96 Points “The 2022 Pinot Noir Latchkey Vineyard is from 18-year-old vines grown on ancient volcanic soils. A bit deeper ruby red, it’s aromatic of black raspberries, rosemary, pressed flowers, and anise. Medium to full-bodied, it is ripe with a rounded, plush, approachable feel, but it has seamless structure and is going to age gracefully over the coming 12-15 years.”

 

France
 
This is a fantastic Thanksgiving wine!
Thibaud Boudignon Rose de Loire, France 2023 750ml $24 special, 25 bottles available
Winery Notes “A noble, supremely saline rosé with an exquisitely delicate texture. Made like a white wine to preserve minerality and structure. The wine is full of bright flacors of wild raspberries, blood orange zest, and red currant, all in a refreshingly silky package.” “A noble, supremely saline rosé with an exquisitely delicate texture. Made like a white wine to preserve minerality and structure. The wine is full of bright flavors of wild raspberries, blood orange zest, and red currant, all in a refreshingly silky package.”
 

 

 
 staff pick  Anne-Sophie Dubois ‘Sans Detour’, Vin de France 2022 750ml $28 special, 10 bottles available
VinopolNote “This is one for the wine geeks. Produced from 20% Gamay and 80% Gamaret (pronounced like “Gamma Ray”) a clone of Gamay first created in Switzerland. Expect Blackberry and Strawberry, plus mild tannins and a soft undercurrent of earthy minerality. Highly recommended.”
 
Anne-Sophie Dubois Fleurie Les Cocottes, Beaujolais, France 2022 750ml $28 special, 12 bottles available
James Suckling 91 Points “Very fresh Fleurie brimming with pomegranates, rosehips, oranges and wild strawberries. It’s medium-bodied and bright, with refreshing acidity and crunchy tannins. Drink now or hold.”
 
Anne-Sophie Dubois Fleurie Les Labourons, Beaujolais, France 2022 750ml $37.50 special, 12 bottles available
James Suckling 92 Points “This has an inviting nose of raspberries, strawberries, rhubarb and nutmeg. Touch of tobacco. It’s medium-bodied, very fresh and poised. Very fine, precise tannins. Drink or hold.”

 
A further Exploration of some of the finest wines in the world at some of the lowest prices in the United States of America.
 
WAS $149
Castello Terriccio Lupicaia Toscana IGT 2009 750ml $128 special, 6 bottles available
Antonio Galloni-Vinous 95 Points “Beautifully resonant in the glass, the 2009 Lupicaia is a standout. Sweet red cherries, flowers, mint, anise, savory herbs and spices all ring out in a supple, gracious wine loaded with class. The 2009 needs a few years for some of the contours to soften, but it is a gorgeous wine with tons of personality. This is a decidedly round, sexy Lupicaia that is going to offer plenty of enjoyment over the course of the next fifteen years or so…. Lupicaia is Cabernet Sauvignon with a dollop of Merlot and Petit Verdot that can vary from year to year. The wine is fermented in stainless steel for 16-18 days with frequent delestage and subsequently aged in French oak barrels. Between 1999 and 2000 the estate began to reduce their reliance on new oak, lowered toasts levels and also shortened the amount of time the wine spends in barrel as they moved away from the excessively oaky style that was in vogue in Italy in the mid to late 1990s. The results in recent vintages have been nothing less than striking.”
 
WAS $199
San Giusto A Rentennano Percarlo Toscana IGT 2016 750ml $179 special, 8 bottles available
Antonio Galloni-Vinous 99 Points “The 2016 Percarlo captures all of the beauty it has always shown in the cellar. Pliant, silky and exceptionally polished, the 2016 simply has it all. Freshly cut flowers, rose petal, mint, spice and blood orange add striking aromatic nuance to a core of brilliant Sangiovese fruit. Powerful and ample, with superb aromatic lift, the 2016 Percarlo is exceptionally beautiful and moving from the very first taste. A whole range of floral and mineral notes extend the finish effortless. The tannins need time to soften, so readers should plan on at least a few years of cellaring. In a word: compelling.”
 
WAS $249
De Venoge Louis XV Brut 2008 750ml $219 special, 31 bottles available
James Suckling 95 Points “This is really punchy and broad-shouldered with muscular structure and citrusy undertones. Full body. Lightly tannic and a fresh and vivid finish. This is the first vintage without malolactic fermentation ever. One for the cellar. Better in 2022.”
 
WAS $259
Gaja Pieve Santa Restituta Brunello Sugarille 2018 750ml $219 special, 5 bottles available
Wine Spectator 95 Points “A dark, brooding 2018, with accents of smoke, vanilla, iron and tar surrounding a core of cherry and plum flavors. Reveals balsamic elements of eucalyptus and wild herbs on the lingering finish. On the austere side now, with a core of fruit and mineral. Best from 2025 through 2043.”
 
WAS $419
Biondi Santi Il Greppo Brunello Riserva 2011 750ml $379 special, 12 bottles available
Wine Enthusiast  96 Points “Beautifully balanced, this opens with alluring scents of wild berry, rose, baking spice and whiffs of chopped herb. Seamlessly combining ripe fruit and the firm’s trademark finesse, the bright elegantly structured palate delivers juicy wild cherry, crushed raspberry, white pepper and a hint of black tea framed in polished tannins and fresh acidity. It’s already tempting but the best is yet to come. Drink 202-2031.”
 
WAS $999
Royal Tokaji Essencia, Tokaj, Hungary 2009 375ml $899 special, 3 bottles available
James Suckling 99 Points “Wine does not get more concentrated, dense and viscous than this Tokaji Essencia, but alongside the unctuous sweetness, it also has extraordinary freshness. The fruit aromas range from blood to quince jelly, but there’s also a slew of spices and notes of flowers and forest honey. Although it barely has 2% alcohol, it is much more vinous than that figure suggests. Titanic brulee character at the huge finish. Just 1,386 half-bottles were made. Should live longer than any of us! Drink or hold.”