Vinopolis March 17 Newsletter

Altesino Brunello Montalcino Montosoli 2006 ($119.95) $66 special
James Suckling 96 points “Perfumed and fruity, with dried cherries and citrus fruit. Wow. It really opens on the nose giving so much gorgeous fruit. Full body and very dense, with dried cherries, cedar and hints of coffee bean. Powerful and rich.”

“One of the most gifted winemakers in Piedmont…these are wines of extraordinary richness, amazing aromatics, and sensual personalities that satiate both the hedonistic and the intellectual senses.” -Robert Parker, Jr.

Domenico Clerico’s Arte wine is a hedonistic blend of 90% Nebbiolo and 10% Barbera from the Langhe region of Italy.  What else but art could one expect from a wine so named and a producer so well regarded?  The Nebbiolo is sourced from three of Barolo’s top vineyards: Ginestra, Pajana and Mosconi from up to 20 year old vines.  Clerico does not use herbicides or chemical fertilizers in his vineyards and uses minimal amounts of SO2 in the winery.  Grapes are manually harvested and fermented separately in a rotofermentor.  The wine is aged for 16-18 months in new French oak barriques, which helps soften the tannins and add complex oak aromas.  The resulting wine is earthy with rich yet smooth tannins.  Only 4,500 bottles and 500 magnums are produced each year.

Domenico Clerico Arte Langhe Rosso 2010 ($49.95) $39 special only 5 bottles remaining
Domenico Clerico Arte Langhe Rosso 2010 1.5L ($99.95) $79 special
Wine Advocate 93 points “The 2010 Langhe Rosso Arte is a crowd-pleasing blend of Nebbiolo (about 90 percent) and Barbera that drinks sumptuously even at this young age. It shows the important structure, acidity and promptness of fruit for a steady evolution. Many of Clerico’s best wines are engineered in this fashion: Although they taste beautiful straight out of the bottle, they generously reward those who wait. In this case, you get layers of bold fruit, spice, and tobacco that are carefully woven into the thick and enduring fabric of the wine. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2025.

Domenico Clerico Arte Langhe Rosso 2011 1.5L ($99.95) $69 super special
Stephen Tanzer 91 points “(90% nebbiolo and 10% barbera; aged for 18 months in new French oak):  Good medium red.  Perfumed aromas and flavors of plum, redcurrant, tobacco and spices.  Intense and vibrant, with lovely inner-mouth aromatic lift.  Very classy, delineated wine.”

Finding Faugeres
Wherein we discover Chateau de la Liquiere

Faugeres is an Appelation within the Languedoc. And it is a harsh and somewhat barren land, entirely back-dropped to the north by hills of 1500-1700 feet of elevation, with south sloping plains of schist swept by legendary winds. The ‘Tramontane’ prevails from the north; it is somewhat cooling and more persistently drying. But the ‘Marin’ is a frequent visitor from the Mediterranean 30 miles to the south; a warm and highly humid wind that is capable of yielding catastrophic rain bursts when it presses against the hills.

The subsoils of Faugeres are uniquely (and importantly) composed of a schist which is sedimentary in origin, the heritage of an ancient seabed later metamorphosed by pressure and heat and then fragmented in geologic upheavals. And top soils- well, there aren’t any; an outcome of the ‘Marin’ born rains periodically washing away any finer grained materials.
For centuries the dominant use of this harsh land was shepherding; converting the native garrigue shrubbery into meat, milk, and cheese. And the best use of the schist was to build shelters for man and livestock alike. Known as ‘capitelle’, these stone huts still dot the landscape today.

But where the Mediterranean Garrigue will grow, wine grapes, once established, can have a capacity to yield superior wines, and this is true in Faugeres. Micro-fissures in the schist will allow root penetration to depths of 20’ where sufficient moisture is retained. And the surface rock is something of a thermal storehouse, capturing the sun’s rays during the day and radiating heat during the night. Wines of Faugeres, when they are good,  have a grilled character, a natural smoke, licorice and spice; along with ripe and assertive red berriedness. But ‘once established’ has proven to be not easily achieved, the soils are infertile and the environment of dry heat and periodic flash-flooding is harsh and has been destructive destructive.

The Vidal’s Chateau de la Liquiere is reflective of the Faugeres Appellation.The Vidal family has been making wine here since the 1700s. The father of Bernard Vidal, the present owner, laid the groundwork for the recognition of Faugeres as a unique wine appellation. Convinced that their wild, rocky terroir was capable of producing distinctive wine, were among the first growers in the region to bottle their wines for commercial sale. But neither they nor their vines became well established until the 1970′s when they undertook a break of convention with their vineyards. Most vineyards are laid out in straight lines to facilitate trellising and maximize sun exposure. The Vidal’s opted to convert to contour planting; ie, terracing the hillside, following the curve of the land.

As to wine-making at Chateau Liquiere, two wine cellars are located on the estate. A traditional one with concrete underground vats uses gravity to gently move grapes and wine through the winemaking process, and a more modern, functional one with stainless steel vats and an oak-barrel aging cellar. Schist terroir, with its poor, highly acidic soil, naturally limits the grape yield. They make some excellent wines in these cellars. Says Bernard Vidal “Go too far in making a universal, easy-drinking wine, and the wine could have been made anywhere. We are proud of our wine, of our family’s winemaking history, and of Faugères,”
Chateau de la Liquiere Faugeres Vieilles Vignes 2011 (19.95) $14 special
Carignan and Grenache, from vines that are over 50 years old. The cuvée classic of this estate since the beginning, when they had very little Syrah and Mourvèdre. 12 months in vat, then bottled – they’ve tried an élevage in barrel, but didn’t like it.  The grapes are entirely destemmed, but beyond that, the vinification is very traditional. Deep colour.   Spicy fruit and a touch leathery. Red and black cherries, rich and a ripe. Good backbone and structure and drinking well now.

Chateau de la Liquiere Faugeres  Nos Racines 2011 (24.95) $19 special
Carignan (which includes around 20% Terret Noir in a field blend), planted in 1900, with 5% Grenache.  Élevage totally in vat.  From la Liquiere’s best plot – of 4 acres of old gobelet vines.  Appealing young & bright color.  The wine solid and rounded.  A very simple vinification, Vidal says that he wants the vines to talk:  ‘C’est la vigne qui parle’.   Quite an elegant Carignan, with perfumed red fruit.  Lots of character and some ageing potential.  A very elegant Carignan.

Ayres Pioneer Pinot Noir 2011 1.5L ($89.95) $72 special, 4 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 90 points “Bright red.  Intense red and dark berry scents are complicated by notes of potpourri and sandalwood.  Smooth and open-knit, offering vibrant black raspberry and bitter cherry flavors and a hint of white pepper.  A bitter orange zest note adds a gripping sensation to the finish, which hangs on with very good tenacity and only a hint of tannins.”

Evesham Wood Cuvee J Pinot Noir 2011 1.5L ($99.95) $69 special, 4 bottles available

Ken Wright Canary Hill Pinot Noir 2011 1.5L ($119.95) $89 special, 3 bottles available
Ken Wright Nysa Pinot Noir 2012 1.5L ($119.95) $89 special, 4 bottles available
Ken Wright Savoya Pinot Noir 2011 1.5L ($119.95) $89 special, 2 bottles available
Ken Wright Shea Pinot Noir 2012 1.5L ($119.95) $89 special, 8 bottles available

Patricia Green Balcombe Vyd Pinot Noir 2011 1.5L ($89.95) $69 special, 3 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 91 points “Vivid ruby-red.  Spicy red berries, herbs and Asian spices on the nose.  Fresh and juicy, with energetic redcurrant and raspberry flavors underscored by smoky minerals.  Shows impressive energy and structure, finishing clean and brisk, with slow-building tannins and lingering sweetness.”

Patricia Green Eason Vyd Pinot Noir 2004 1.5L ($119.95) $89 special, 3 bottles available
Winery Library Released

Patricia Green Estate Old Vine Pinot Noir 2011 1.5 ($99.95) $79 special, 4 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 92 points “Brilliant red.  Smoky, sharply focused aromas of dried cherry, sassafras, potpourri and mocha.  Chewy, energetic and subtly sweet, offering very good depth to its bitter cherry and black raspberry flavors.  Tangy acidity gives lift and vivacity to the persistent finish, which features fine-grained tannins and a lingering floral nuance.”

Westrey Abbey Ridge Pinot Noir 2011 1.5L ($89.95) $79 special, 4 bottles available

Zanzibar Casima 2006 1.5L ($99.95) $49 special, 25 bottles available
Wine Spectator 91 points “Smooth and velvety, this lets its tobacco- and black olive-tinged cherry and spice flavors emerge easily, lingering on the generous finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese and Cabernet Franc.”

Zanzibar Casima 2007 1.5L ($99.95) $39 special, 7 bottles available
Zanzibar Casima 2007 3.0L ($199.95) $79 special, 7 bottles available

Kapcsandy Endre 2009 1.5L ($219.95) $159 special, 2 bottles available
Wine Advocate 91 points “The 2009 Endre is a major step up in quality from the 2008 I tasted alongside it. The wine reveals lovely fleshiness and depth in its dark fruit, tobacco and spices. I especially like the way the Endre fleshes out on the finish. The 2009 is 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 39% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc and 4% Petit Syrah. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017.”

Kapcsandy Estate Cabernet State Lane VYD 2009 1.5L ($399.95) $279 special, 1 bottle available
Wine Advocate 95 points “The 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Cuvee is pure, seamless and totally beautiful. Hints of chocolate, cloves and gingerbread appear on the nose, followed by rich, deep layers of fruit. There is a baritone-like expression in the 2009 that is striking. Sweet floral notes appear later, adding lift, vibrancy and freshness. In other words, all the elements are perfectly in balance. This is a gorgeous 2009. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2029. Kapcsandy’s 2009s have developed beautifully over the last year.”

Kapcsandy State Lane Grand Vin Cabernet 2009 1.5L ($899.95) $679 special, 3 bottles available
Wine Advocate 98 points “The 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Grand Vin opens with the most beguiling bouquet imaginable. Freshly cut flowers, mint, cinnamon and licorice all make an appearance as this vivid, beautifully delineated wine opens up in the glass. A model of total finesse and elegance, the 2009 wraps around the palate with what feels like endless layers of aromas and flavors. This totally seamless, polished Cabernet Sauvignon is virtually impossible to resist today, but it will be even better in another few years. The 2009 is 96% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Merlot and 1% Cabernet Franc. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2039. Kapcsandy’s 2009s have developed beautifully over the last year.”

Tablas Creek Esprit De Tablas Rouge 2011 1.5L ($119.95) $89 special, 5 bottles available
Wine Advocate 93 points “A blend of 40% Mourvedre, 30% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 10% Counoise, the 2011 Esprit de Tablas has a core of sweet black raspberry and cassis that is cut by more savory, meaty nuances, pepper and spice. Medium to full-bodied, rich and beautifully textured, with ripe tannin, it’s a more streamlined, fresh version of the cuvee that relies more on elegance and complexity than sheer depth and richness. It will have 10-12 years of longevity.”

A. Margaine Blanc De Blancs 2006 1.5L ($159.95) $137 special, 13 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 93 points “(one-third of this wine was raised in four-year-old old oak barrels for five months before bottling; aged for six years on its lees and disgorged in July of 2013):  Light gold.  White peach, pear, smoky minerals and buttered toast on the sexy, highly perfumed nose.  At once rich and lithe, with crackling minerality giving lift and verve to the wine’s intense pit and orchard fruit flavors.  Sappy, fine-grained and pure, finishing long and precise, with hints of licorice and iodine.”

Billiot Reserve Brut Grand Cru NV 1.5L ($149.95) $89 special, 21 bottles available
Wine Spectator 93 points “Richly spiced, with a skein of ground clove, ginger and cardamom winding through flavors of dried apricot and apple, currant candy, passion fruit and lemon zest. Beautiful texture and balance here, followed by a long and mouthwatering, mineral-tinged finish. Drink now through 2020. 300 cases imported.”

De Sousa Brut Reserve Blanc De Blancs NV 1.5L ($139.95) $89 special, 12 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 91 points “Light, bright yellow. Exotically perfume of nectarine, poached pear, brioche, anise and chamomile. Deep, round and fleshy, with powerful orchard and pit fruit flavors braced by a jolt of smoky minerals on the back half. Smoothly blends richness and vivacity, finishing with excellent clarity and toasty persistence.”

Demarne-Frison Goustan NV 1.5L ($149.95) $99 special, 10 bottles available
Demarne-Frison Lalore Blanc De Blancs NV 1.5L ($149.95) $125 special, 2 bottles available

Deutz Blanc De Blancs 2007 1.5L ($159.95) $139 special, 6 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 91 points “Light, bright straw.  Lemon zest, green apple and chalky minerals on the fragrant nose.  Dry and precise, offering energetic citrus and orchard fruit flavors that pick up anise and honeysuckle nuances with air.  Closes stony and long, with lingering floral and iodine notes.”

Deutz Brut Millesime 2007 1.5L ($129.95) $109 special, 4 bottles available

Fleury Brut Nature Symphonie D’Europe 1990 1.5L ($379.95) $299 special, 2 bottles available
Wine Advocate 94 points “The 1990 Extra Brut Symphonie d’Europe (Pinot Noir) opens with the most extraordinary bouquet. Smoke, graphite, apricot jam and honeysuckle all burst from the glass. Floral notes develop later, adding lift and freshness, but this remains a rich, full-bodied wine endowed with stunning power and plenty of unbridled intensity. Honey, almonds and flowers are some of the many nuances that are wrapped into the layered, textured finish. This is yet another great showing from Fleury.”

L. Aubry Champagne Brut Premier Cru NV 1.5L ($109.95) $89 special, 3 bottles available
Wine Advocate 92 points “The NV Brut Premier Cru is a gorgeous wine, and a great introduction to the house style. Lemon, white flowers, mint, crushed rocks are some of the many notes that take shape in the glass as this refined Champagne shows off its impeccable class and total pedigree. The Premier Cru is 45% Pinot Meunier, 25% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay and 5% Arbanne, Petit Meslier and Fromenteau. The high percentage of red grapes is felt in the wine’s breadth, while the aromas and flavors remain fresh, vibrant and beautifully nuanced throughout. This is a fabulous entry-level offering. Disgorgement date: June 2012.”

Pierre Peters Cuvee Reserve Blanc De Blancs 1.5L ($149.95) $119 special, 18 bottles available
Wine Advocate 92 points “The NV Brut Cuvee de Reserve is striking. It shows fabulous cut and definition in its fruit, expressive aromatics all backed up by plenty of underlying structure. A bright, mineral laced finish rounds things out in style. This is superb entry-level wine from one of Champagne’s top producers. The Cuvee Reserve is 100% Chardonnay. This year’s release is based on 2008 (60%), with reserve wines going back to 1988, precisely 1988, 1990, 1993 and 1995-2007 (except 1999 and 2003). ”

Pierre Peters Cuvee Reserve Blanc De Blancs 3L ($429.95) $319 special, 5 bottles available
Burghound 93 points “A stunningly elegant nose of pure floral, Granny Smith apples, spice and freshly sliced lemon complements to perfection the intense and equally pure flavors that possess excellent punch like remain delicate and ultra-refined on the balanced and persistent finish. The supporting mousse displays a very find bead and the overall impression is one of subtlety and grace. Not only is this a wonderful effort but the value it offers it beyond stunning.” March 2013 disgorgement

Rene Geoffroy Extra Brut 2002 1.5L ($319.95) $279 special, 5 bottles available
Wine Advocate 92 points “The 2002 Extra Brut Millesime is a rich, broad shouldered wine graced with tons of fruit. Vinification in French oak barriques gives the wine considerable depth, volume and spiciness. Layers of ripe, expressive varietal fruit flow from this rich, dramatic Champagne. A caressing, multi-dimensional finish rounds things out in style. As good as this is – and it is outstanding – I prefer Geoffroy’s wines made in steel. The blend is 60% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay and 5% Pinot Meunier, with 2 grams per liter of dosage”

Vilmart Brut Grand Cellier D’Or 2006 1.5L ($279.95) $219 special, 6 bottles available
Wine Advocate 93 points “The 2006 Brut Cuvee Grand Cellier d’Or is a striking wine endowed with tons of class and sheer depth. It shows considerable power in its freshly cut flowers, spices and rich Chardonnay fruit. All of the aromas and flavors build effortlessly to a creamy finish layered with smoke, minerals and ash. This is a fabulous wine in every way, but it will require at least a few more years in bottle. The 2006 is 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir from Les Blanches Voies Bas. The wine spent 10 months in barrel and a total of four years on its lees.”

Vincent Couche Brut 2002 1.5L ($119.95) $79 special, 14 bottles available
Scott Paul Wine notes “50% Pinot Noir, 50% Chardonnay, all from Buxeuil, and all from the outstanding 2002 vintage. 7 grams dosage, disgorged in April 2012 – over nine years on the lees! An absolutely superb wine – minerality and fruit in perfect harmony. 600 cases produced.”

Chateau Du Cayrou Cahors 1985 1.5 L ($179.95) $149 special, 3 bottles available
Chateau Du Cayrou Cahors 2004 1.5 L ($49.95) $39 special, 4 bottles available

Lucien Le Moine Chenas 2011 1.5L ($149.95) $133 special, 3 bottles available
Wine Advocate 92-93+ points “…it mingles striking wisteria perfume with scents and flavors of blueberry, pomegranate, black raspberry and smoked meat. Mouthwateringly salt-tinged and with crystalline suggestions of stony counterpoint, its infectiously juicy primary fruit informs a silken-texture palate and strikingly vibrant and persistent finish.”

Chateau Thivin Cote De Brouilly 2009 1.5L ($59.95) $49 special, 4 bottles available
Wine Advocate 90-91 points ‘The 2009 Cote de Brouilly blend for the U.S. (tasted in final but as yet un-bottled form in June, after the individual lots had been tasted from cask in April) features blueberry and elderberry with pungent mint, marjoram, lavender, moss, wood smoke, and distilled berry overtones. Toasted pecan, carob, salt, crushed stone and tart berry skin lend stimulation to a fascinating palate performance of density yet refreshing levity, and this finishes with saliva-inducing persistence. In contrast with most Beaujolais crus of its vintage, I suspect it is apt to evolve with an emphasis on mineral savor rather than overt fruitiness. It should evolve satisfyingly for at least half a dozen years.”

Chignard Fleurie Les Moriers 2011 1.5L ($69.95) $59 special, 9 bottles available
Wine Advocate & Stephen Tanzer 91 points “Bright violet color.  A seductively perfumed bouquet evokes red and dark berries, lavender, Asian spices and smoky minerals.  Juicy and focused on the palate, offering vibrant black raspberry and bitter cherry flavors that gain sweetness with air.  The mineral quality comes back strong on the finish, which features silky tannins and a zesty floral pastille nuance.”

Domaine et Selection Bonnes Mares Elevage Ponsot 2009 1.5l ($799.95) $699 special, 2 bottles available

Faiveley Corton Clos De Corton 2006 1.5L ($279.95) $219 special, 3 bottles available
Burghound 91-93 points, Stephen Tanzer 92 points “Discreet if not invisible wood frames earthy red pinot fruit that leads to serious, vibrant and wonderfully intense flavors that possess impressive size and weight and a bit less rusticity than usual, all wrapped in a gorgeously long and deep finish. I find it interesting that this is a bit less structured than a number of the grands crus in the range as this is normally among the most age worthy wines here, not that this is exactly a shrinking violet.”

Faiveley Gevrey Chambertin Cazetiers 2009 1.5L ($219.95) $179 special, 4 bottles available
Wine Spectator 94 points “A seductive style, with sweet spice, sandalwood, floral and cherry aromas and flavors allied to a silky texture. It’s all beautifully balanced and ends with refined, integrated tannins for focus. Excellent length and freshness. Best from 2014 through 2030.”

Faiveley Gevrey Chambertin Cazetiers 2011 1.5L ($199.95) $169 special, 5 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 92 (+?) points “Bright medium red with a palish rim.  Lovely floral lift to the aromas of cherry pit, rose petal, mint and sexy new oak.  Densely packed and silky, offering good size but a light touch.  Red fruit, bitter chocolate, floral and mineral flavors display terrific precision.  Finishes pure, gripping and long, with a firm underpinning of dusty but sweet tannins and a lingering floral quality.  This one should evolve gracefully.”

Hospices De Beaune Rousseau-Deslandes 2011 1.5L ($249.95) $219 special, 3 bottles available
Elevage by Lucien Le Moine

JF Mugnier Nuits St Georges Marechale 2011 1.5L ($199.95) $149 special, 5 bottles available
Burghound 90-92 points “A pure and appealingly fresh nose of relatively elegant red berry fruit is liberally laced with earth and spice hints. There is a lilting mouth feel to the energetic, intense and equally pure medium-bodied flavors that possess plenty of that beguiling sense of underlying tension that makes wines like this so refreshing. There isn’t the class of the Fuées but this is really very good plus I very much like the balance and harmony of the firm and lingering finish.”

Chateau De Bellevue Lussac St Emilion 1998 3L ($219.95) $149 special, 3 bottles available
Chateau De Bellevue Lussac St Emilion 1999 3L ($219.95) $139 special, 3 bottles available
Chateau De Bellevue Lussac St Emilion 1999 5L ($259.95) $199 special, 2 bottles available

Chateau Figeac St. Emilion 2005 1.5L ($349.95) $269 special, 8 bottles available
Wine Spectator 95 points “This is subtle and complex, showing blackberry, fresh tobacco and light vanilla, with a hint of Indian spices. Full-bodied, with super well-integrated tannins and a finish that lasts for minutes. Refined and classy. The best modern wine from this producer. Best after 2015.”

Chateau Haut Bages Liberal Pauillac 2006 1.5L ($139.95) $99 special, 4 bottles available
Wine Spectator 92 points “Dark ruby purple in color, with aromas of currant and dried flowers. Full-bodied, with fine tannins and a delicious finish. Tight now, but pretty and balanced. Best after 2012.”

Pepiere Muscadet Granite De Clisson 2010 1.5L ($59.95) $49 special, 2 bottles available
Wine & Spirits 93 points “Among the grandest, most ageworthy wines from Pépière’s domaine, Clisson grows on granite covered in well-drained gravel. Marc Ollivier and Rémi Branger grew a fragrant 2010, seemingly delicate in its leesy scents of pear, apple and tart white peach. Spend some time with the wine and you’ll begin to notice how compressed it is, the rainwater freshness of the fruit hiding the firmness of its acidity, the length of flavor continuing on to a lasting memory. A great vintage of Clisson, this is lovely to drink as a young wine, and it will reward after cellaring for a decade.”

Delas Freres Hermitage Tourette 2009 1.5L ($279.95) $219 special, 9 bottles available
Robert Parker 98 points “The magnificent 2009 Hermitage Domaine des Tourettes boasts a black/purple color as well as a wonderful nose of creosote, incense, charcoal, blackberry jam, acacia flowers, white chocolate and a hint of espresso roast. Full-bodied and unctuously textured with low acidity and magnificent density, this 2009 can be drunk in 5-6 years or cellared for 30-50 years.”

Jean Louis Chave Hermitage Rouge 2008 1.5L ($449.95) $289 special, 5 bottles available
Wine Spectator 94 points “This is suave, with a smoldering tobacco note running from start to finish, while truffle, cocoa, braised fig and warm black currant confiture notes fill in the remaining space. Dense, but very silky along the edges, with remarkable harmony for the vintage.”

Pallieres Gigondas Terrasses Du Diable 2010 1.5L ($119.95) $99 special, 6 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 93 points “Bright ruby-red.  A complex, heady bouquet evokes candied red fruits, potpourri and Asian spices.  Silky and seamless in texture, offering vibrant raspberry and bitter cherry flavors and an exotic touch of blood orange.  Anise and herb notes come up with air and carry through a long, bright and focused finish.  I underestimated this sexy wine last year.”

Pegau Chateauneuf De Pape Cuvee Reservee 2010 1.5L ($249.95) $199 special, 3 bottles available
Wine Spectator 97 points, #7 WOTY 2013 “Looking at the 2010s and a brilliant vintage for Laurence, the 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape offers up classic Pegau aromas and flavors of ripe dark fruits, garrigue, cured meats, tobacco leaf, saddle leather and hints of game. Full-bodied and beautifully concentrated, it offers a seamless, layered profile on the palate with thrilling mid-palate depth, sweet, yet substantial tannin, and a blockbuster finish that stays fresh and beautifully focused. Quite polished by this estates standards, it nevertheless screams southern France and I doubt it’s possible to have too much of this beauty in the cellar. It will absolutely thrill over the coming 2-3 decades”

Saint Cosme Chateauneuf-Du-Pape 2010 1.5L ($119.95) $99 special, 6 bottles available
Wine Spectator 96 points “Densely packed, with a core of baker’s chocolate, espresso, bay, licorice root, black currant preserves and steeped fig. A strong, almost rigid charcoal spine carries the finish, surrounded by ample flesh, lingering minerality and a smoldering feel. A backward, old-school version built for long cellaring. Best from 2017 through 2030.”

Saint Cosme Cotes Du Rhone 2012 1.5L ($29.95) $20.90 special, 6 bottles available

Usseglio Chateauneuf Du Pape Mon Aieul 2010 1.5L ($249.95) $219 special, 9 bottles available
Robert Parker 97 points “The 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee de Mon Aieul (cropped at 12-16 hectoliters per hectare) comes from the estate’s finest vineyards in the southern part of the appellation (Les Grandes Serres), the eastern sector (the famed La Crau) and the northern sector (Guigasse). The wine is aged primarily in stainless steel tanks with a small percent (less than 20%) kept in 600-liter demi-muids. Despite the 16.5% natural alcohol, there is not a trace of heat in this wine. It is stunningly concentrated with great intensity as well as classic blueberry, peppery, incense, camphor, fig and licorice characteristics. Rich and full-bodied with slightly more freshness than their profound 2007, the 2010 Mon Aieul should age effortlessly for two decades.”

Isole E Olena Cepparello 2005 1.5L ($179.95) $119 special 11 bottles available
Antonio Galloni 94 points “The 2005 Cepparello is striking. It possesses stunning depth and a darker profile of fruit than is typical. The 2005 was quite compact when first released, but what a difference a few years in bottle make. Today the 2005 has begun to blossom into a big, dramatic wine for the year. As was the case throughout most of Chianti Classico, 2005 was shaping up to be a great year until the rains arrived just before harvest. This is a fabulous effort on its own, but especially notable for the vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2030.”

Isole E Olena Cepparello 2006 1.5L ($199.95) $149 special 9 bottles available
Antonio Galloni 94 points “The 2005 Cepparello is striking. It possesses stunning depth and a darker profile of fruit than is typical. The 2005 was quite compact when first released, but what a difference a few years in bottle make. Today the 2005 has begun to blossom into a big, dramatic wine for the year. As was the case throughout most of Chianti Classico, 2005 was shaping up to be a great year until the rains arrived just before harvest. This is a fabulous effort on its own, but especially notable for the vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2030.”

La Gerla Brunello Riserva Gli Angeli 06 1.5L ($199.95) $119 special 2 bottles available
Wine Spectator 93 points “Ripe plum, cigar box and iron notes are backed by solid tannins and lively acidity in this muscular red. There’s also a suppleness in the texture that should increase as the tannins are absorbed. Best from 2015 through 2032.”

Ca Del Baio Barbaresco Asili 2009 1.5L ($89.95) $69 special, 15 bottles available
Wine Advocate 94 points “The 2009 Barbaresco Asili caresses the palate with soft, open fruit and a resonant personality that is quite striking. The essence of red berries, rose petals and sweet spices blossom in the glass. This is an especially vibrant style for the year, with excellent freshness, color and balance. Firm tannins support a highly attractive, delineated finish. The 2009 should be an absolute beauty in another few years, once the tannins soften. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. I was deeply impressed with the wines I tasted from Ca’del Baio this year. As always, the house style favors a juicy, fruit-forward expression of Nebbiolo.”

Elio Grasso Barolo Riserva Runcot 2004 1.5L ($329.95) $249 special, 7 bottles available
Wine Spectator 98 points “Sweet spices introduce this concentrated red, whose deep, sappy flavors of cherry and plum mesh effortlessly with the supple texture. Licorice and mineral notes play around the edges, while the tannins are well-integrated. Stays bright and long on the finish. Best from 2013 through 2035.”

Giacomo Conterno Barbera Francia 2010 1.5L ($119.95) $89 special, 16 bottles available
Wine Advocate 92 points “The 2010 Barbera d’Alba Cascina Francia is dark and brooding in this vintage. Melted road tar, incense and black fruit flesh out on this intense, powerful Barbera. The Cascina Francia can sometimes offer plenty of early appeal, but not in 2010. This is a wine that needs time. A fleshy, creamy finish backed up by serious structure suggests the best is still several years away at a minimum. The Cascina Francia is slightly rounder in style, while the Ceretta is a decidedly more linear, focused Barbera. In 2010, the Cascina Francia was picked first. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2030”

Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia 2008 1.5L ($379.95) $319 special, 5 bottles available
Antonio Galloni 95+ points “The 2008 Barolo Cascina Francia possesses gorgeous inner perfume, layers of sublime fruit and fabulous overall balance. Plums, dark cherries and licorice are followed by darker notes of graphite and tar as the wine opens up in the glass. Today, the 2008 is much less expressive than it has been the many times I have tasted it from barrel. It will be interesting to see how the 2008 develops and whether it puts on weight or remains more of a mid-weight, gracious Barolo. Either way, it is fabulous.”

Produttori Del Barbaresco Montestefano 2008 1.5L ($139.95) $119 special, 11 bottles available
Wine Advocate 95+ points “The 2008 Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano is exquisite and harmonious from start to finish. Among the more structured 2008s, the Montestefano is the wine that most hides its tannin, as the fruit is intensely perfumed, rich and totally seductive. Today the Montestefano provides the illusion of being relatively accessible, but it is virtually certain to shut down in bottle. The 2008 boasts striking aromatics, seemingly endless layers of fruit and power to burn. Readers can think of the Montestefano as a synthesis of Montefico, Ovello and Rabaja. Not bad, to say the least. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2048.”

Produttori Del Barbaresco Ovello 2007 1.5L ($139.95) $119 special, 3 bottles available
Wine Advocate 95 points “The 2007 Barbaresco Riserva Ovello comes across as cool, inward and reticent. In other words, very Ovello. It is one of the most complete of these 2007s, as the freshness of the site works to counter some of the more extroverted qualities of the year. The Ovello possesses stunning depth in its fruit, expressive inner perfume and firm yet refined tannins that provide the backdrop for all of the elements to come together beautifully in the glass. The Ovello seems to combine the best qualities of the Montestefano and Montefico. The huge, building finish provides a glimpse as to what awaits those who can exercise a measure of patience. This is a stunning Barbaresco on all counts. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2032.”

Produttori Del Barbaresco Ovello 2008 1.5L ($139.95) $119 special, 14 bottles available
Wine Advocate 95+ points “The Produttori’s 2008 Barbaresco Riserva Ovello is a reference point wine for the village, even if, in truth, Ovello is a fairly diverse zone with many exposures. Firm, steely tannins support a core of expressive fruit in this vibrant, energetic Barbaresco. The 2008 is going to require considerable patience, but it is striking, even today. Sweet floral notes reappear on the vivid, utterly breathtaking finish, adding lift, precision and vibrancy. This is a stunning wine from the Produttori. The style is built on tension, energy and focus; in other words, all the qualities Ovello is known for. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2048.”

Produttori Del Barbaresco Rabaja 2007 1.5L ($179.95) $149 special, 4 bottles available
Wine Advocate 95 points “The 2007 Barbaresco Riserva Rabaja is a big, dark wine loaded with dark fruit, menthol, tar, flowers, mint, rosemary and an array of balsamic notes that develop in the glass. The Rabaja possesses stunning depth to match its muscular tannins. It is a dazzling wine endowed with tons of inner perfume and sheer personality as it saturates the palate from start to finish. Today, the Rabaja comes across as huge and almost Barolo like, but it has plenty of Rabaja character. Purists will want to age the wine for a number of years to allow the baby fruit to drop off, but the truth is, it is pretty stunning even today. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2037.”

Vietti Barbaresco Masseria 2007 1.5L ($349.95) $199 special, 3 bottles available
Wine Advocate 94 points “The 2007 Barbaresco Masseria flows gracefully from the glass with fabulous aromas of crushed flowers, berries, spices and minerals. It is a wonderfully perfumed, elegant Barbaresco of the highest level. Supple and open today, it promises to drink well to age twenty, if not significantly longer. Hints of the profound 1989 Barolo Rocche – one of the all time greats here – lingers on the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2027.”

Vietti Barolo Brunate 2006 1.5L ($399.95) $319 special, 2 bottles available
Wine Advocate & Stephen Tanzer 95 points “Good medium red. Perfumed aromas of camphor, brown spices and menthol. Silky-sweet and aromatic in the mouth, with lovely class and a light touch for a wine with such a plush texture-no doubt due to a mineral element that reminded me of Musigny. Very intensely flavored, suave Brunate with an impressive rising finish. A superb showing: this has the structure for a slow evolution in bottle but the complexity to give it considerable early appeal.”
Vietti Barolo Lazzarito 2007 1.5L ($449.95) $349 special, 2 bottles available
Wine Advocate 96+ points “The 2007 Barolo Lazzarito is a superb, plush wine loaded with dark fruit, flowers of all sorts, sweet menthol and minerals, all of which flow through to the long, powerful finish. The wine’s inner perfume emerges over time, adding even more nuance and subtlety to this big Barolo. The 2007 Lazzarito is far from an open, easygoing wine, in fact it needs time, and lots of it. Anticipated maturity: 2022-2042.”

Voerzio Barolo Riserva Capalot Brunate 1999 1.5L ($599.95) $379 special, 4 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 95+ points “Full, deep ruby-red. Restrained but highly complex nose melds strawberry, raspberry, currant, mocha and dried flowers; less exuberant today than the Samassa. But the sweetest and lushest in the mouth of these ’99s: hugely rich, creamy and seamless but with terrific supporting vinosity giving it a lightness of touch.”

Bodegas Muga Rioja Prado Enea 2004 1.5L ($129.95) $99 special, 13 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 94 points “80% tempranillo, with garnacha, mazuelo and graciano):  Dark ruby.  An intensely perfumed nose displays cherry-cola, cassis, licorice and woodsmoke, with a sexy floral quality and very good focus.  Juicy, penetrating dark fruit flavors are given spine by tangy acidity and pick up bitter chocolate and spicecake nuances with air.  Supple tannins add shape to the very long, sappy, smoke-accented finish.  This is still a baby.”

La Rioja Alta Vina Ardanza Reserva 2004 1.5L ($89.95) $79 special, 5 bottles available
Wine Spectator #22 Wine of the Year Wine Spectator 94 points “Cedar, tobacco and spice hints frame dried cherry, berry and vanilla notes in this silky red. The flavors mingle nicely, framed by juicy acidity and light but firm tannins. The wine has a lovely, weightless intensity. A fine example of the traditional style. Drink now through 2020.”

Finca de la Rica El Buscador Rioja Crianza 2010 ($19.95) $8.80 special
Vinopolnotes From the best plots in Finca de La Rica’s Labastida vineyards in Rioja. Tempranillo from the most western area of Rioja plus a small percentage of Garnacha. Bright red with medium intensity that highlights cherry flavors and notes of licorice and cocoa.

Bodegas Amezola Inigo Amezola Rioja 2010 ($39.95) $18 special
Wine Advocate 92 points “($40)The 2010 Inigo Amezola is sourced from what they consider their best vineyard, an 8-hectare plot called San Quiles. It feels much riper compared with the 2007 Reserva from the winery. Dark cherry-colored, it has plenty of floral notes and cherries in liqueur that reminded me of a Chateauneuf-du-Pape. I’d have sworn it had some Garnacha in it, but it’s 100% Tempranillo aged for ten months in equal parts American and French oak barrels. The wood is well-integrated in the wine, which leans toward the flavors of the ripe fruit but manages to keep the freshness. 8,000 bottles were produced. Drink 2014-2016.”

Lopez Heredia Bosconia Rioja Reserva 2003 ($37.95) $26 special
Stephen Tanzer 92 points “(80% tempranillo, 15% garnacha, 3% graciano and 2% mazuelo):  Medium red.  Ripe red fruit, flowers and spices on the nose, with a smoky nuance emerging with aeration; very fresh for this notoriously hot vintage.  Concentrated but not at all heavy, with intense red berry and floral pastille flavors and a deeper note of singed plum.  The finish is bright and high-pitched, with lingering cherry and raspberry flavors and a hint of candied licorice.”

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New Reviews from

2011 BURGUNDY

Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot Beaune Epenottes 2011 ($89.95) $69 special 12 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 94(+?) points “Full bright, pale yellow.  White peach, pear and a whiff of orange zest on the nose.  The flavors of stone fruits and minerals offer terrific penetration and intensity thanks to superb acidity and the low yield of the year.  No easy sweetness about this one!  Wonderfully tactile, brisk wine with chewy, saline finishing flavors that resound on the aftertaste.  One of two barrels was new in 2010; Boudot made three and a half barrels in the more generous 2011 vintage.”

Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot Volnay 2011 ($49.95) $39 special 12 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 89 points “Light, bright red. Dark berries and spices complicated by licorice and game on the nose. Supple, round and juicy, with plum and underbrush flavors showing both sweet and savory qualities. In a more flattering style than the Beaune Epenottes, and the fine dusting of tannins will not get in the way of early enjoyment.”

Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot Volnay Carelle Sous la Chapelle 2011 ($89.95) $69 special 12 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 90 points “Good bright red. Red berries, musky minerals and soil tones on the nose and palate. Supple, sweet and moderately rich; less suave than the village wine but stylish nonetheless.  Finishes with good length and slightly drying tannins that hit the palate late.”

Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot Volnay Pitures 2011 ($99.95) $75 special 12 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 91 points “Bright pale red. Good red fruit lift on the nose, with complicating notes of menthol, minerals and game. Suave, juicy and fresh, offering lovely definition and cut to the flavors of red fruits and orange zest. Pulpy, bright wine with plenty of fruit intensity. Finishes sweet and long.  Drink this now or hold it for five or six years.”

Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot Pommard Jarollieres 2011 ($99.95) $79 special 12 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 89-91 points ” Medium red-ruby. Aromas of black cherry and mocha; less floral and complex than the Volnay cuvees. Sweet and chewy on entry, then a bit cool, even austere, in the middle, showing a medicinal cast to the black fruit and chocolate flavors. Holding a lot in reserve but distinctly taut and clenched today. Finishes with tight tannins. Seems less ripe and rich than the Volnay Pitures.”

Domaine Henri Boillot Volnay Les Chevrets 2011 ($99.95) $77 special 20 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 91-93 points “Bright red-ruby.  Rather brooding aromas of cassis, blackberry, smoke and licorice are pure and discreet.  Surprisingly rich on entry, then lush and seamless in the middle, but with very good acidity framing and lifting the black fruit and game flavors.  The powerful, rising finish features building tannins and a distinct thick-skinned character.  The old vines in Boillot’s parcel were strongly affected by millerandage, which largely explains this wine’s extra measure of texture and concentration.”

Henri Boillot Pommard Les Rugiens 2011 ($119.95) $99 special 21 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 92+ points “Good bright, deep red.  Redcurrant, pepper, iron and earth tones on the nose, lifted by a suggestion of dried flowers.  Reticent today but showing outstanding vinosity to its soil-driven flavors of redcurrant, spices, licorice, pepper and underbrush.  Best today on the very long, floral back end, where the firm tannins currently clamp down on the wine’s fruit.  This youthfully medicinal wine is tighter than the Volnay premier crus here and in need of a good seven or eight years of cellaring.  Incidentally, Sebastien Boillot describes the family’s 2011s as less charming than the ’10s and ’12s and believes that they will need long aging.”

Domaine Jean-Jacques Confuron Romanee Saint-Vivant 2011 ($379.95) $299 special 6 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 92(+?) points “Bright red-ruby.  Complex aromas of black raspberry, bitter chocolate, violet, minerals and peppery herbs.  Suave, lush and fine-grained; really spreads out to saturate the palate with intense berry and chocolate flavors.  Finishes with big, ripe tannins, excellent length and noteworthy reserve.  Very intensely flavored wine:  the crop level in these old vines is always around 30 hectoliters per hectare, noted Alain Meunier.”

Domaine Faiveley Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Saint-Georges 2011 ($129.95) $109 special 15 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 93 points “Bright medium red.  Pure, refined nose offers scents of redcurrant, peony, rose petal, mint and orange peel.  Juicy and elegant, with lovely cut giving razor-sharp focus to the red fruit, spice, floral and mineral flavors.  Classically dry and youthfully imploded today, even a bit wiry and tart, but the wine’s saline stony minerality and firm tannic spine promise a graceful evolution in bottle.  Impresses more for its finesse than for its flesh.”

Domaine Faiveley Gevrey Chambertin Cazetiers 2011 750ml ($99.95) $79 special 24+ bottles available
Domaine Faiveley Gevrey Chambertin Cazetiers 2011 1.5 LITER ($199.95) $169 special 5 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 92 (+?) points “Bright medium red with a palish rim.  Lovely floral lift to the aromas of cherry pit, rose petal, mint and sexy new oak.  Densely packed and silky, offering good size but a light touch.  Red fruit, bitter chocolate, floral and mineral flavors display terrific precision.  Finishes pure, gripping and long, with a firm underpinning of dusty but sweet tannins and a lingering floral quality.  This one should evolve gracefully.”

Domaine Faiveley Corton Clos des Corton 2011 ($199.95) $149 special 24+ bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 94 points “Medium red.  Ineffable nose and palate offer red fruits, minerals, spices and flowers, complicated by game, earth and leather.  Sweet, concentrated and very intense, boasting outstanding density and a fine-grained texture, with salty minerality giving the wine a weightless impression that’s remarkable considering its density.  A strong tannic spine and brisk acidity energize and draw out the finish of this sharply delineated, pristine grand cru.”

Domaine Faiveley Chambertin-Clos de Beze 2011 ($329.95) $259 special 12 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 94 (+?) points “Medium red.  Highly nuanced yet quite primary on the nose, offering scents of raspberry, underbrush, dried rose, ginger and smoky oak.  Juicy, saline and quite dry, with dark berry and strawberry flavors complicated by an earthy perfume.  Finishes with substantial dusty tannins and excellent length.  With 24 hours in the recorked bottle, this beauty showed a silkier texture and chewy, deep flavors of raspberry and spices that saturate the palate without leaving any impression of weight.  A great effort for the vintage.”

Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits-Saint Clos des Porrets 2011 ($89.95) $79 special 24+ bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 90 points “Bright medium red.  Liqueur-like aromas of cherry and raspberry.  Sweet red fruit and spice flavors are lifted by notes of rose petal, herbs and pepper.  Has the freshness and balance to give early pleasure.  Finishes with lingering pepper-and-spice perfume and very good length.”

Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Pruliers 2011 ($99.95) $89 special 21 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 91 points “Bright medium red.  Reticent high-toned aromas of slightly jammy red fruits and earth.  Sweet and ripe; richer and deeper than the Porrets Saint-Georges, with silky red cherry, currant and spice flavors enlivened by pungent peppery acidity.  Nicely balanced, round wine with good buffering extract.”

Jadot Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Boudots 2011 ($99.95) $79 special 18 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 91 (+?) points “Medium red.  Brooding aromas of dark fruits, mint and menthol.  Rich and deep on the palate, with spicy red fruit flavors lifted by a note of orange peel.  Finishes with substantial dusty tannins and juicy persistence.”

Jadot Clos Vougeot 2011 ($149.95) $119 special 12 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 92 points “Good medium red.  Raspberry, redcurrant and strong spicy oak on the nose.  Densely packed but a bit youthfully rough today, with raspberry and spicy oak flavors framed by sound acidity and substantial dusty tannins.  Plenty of breadth and energy here but this grand cru will need at least a couple more years to harmonize in bottle.”

Jadot Echezeaux 2011 ($179.95) $139 special 6 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 92 points “Medium red. Vibrant aromas of red cherry, cranberry, pomegranate, spices and nutty oak. Broad and savory on the palate; in a dry style but shows good weight and texture to its flavors of tart red berries and spices. Nicely filled in, yet at the same time taut and penetrating.  Finishes with ripe tannins, sneaky subtle sweetness and a lovely light touch.”

Jadot Bonnes-Mares 2011($279.95) $249 special 12 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 93 points “Bright, deep red. Initially explosive aromas and flavors of cherry, menthol, incense and spices subsided in favor of blueberry, crushed stone and peppermint tea: very Bonnes-Mares! Wonderfully silky and scented in the mouth, displaying very good breadth but a light touch. Finishes with a broad, fine dusting of tannins and excellent length and lift. A compellingly perfumed and pure wine:  am I greedy for wanting the flesh and sweetness of a warmer year?”

Jadot Chapelle-Chambertin 2011 ($219.95) $169 special 6 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 95 points “Bright, full medium red. Knockout nose shows an almost candied character to the aromas of strawberry, cherry, dark berries, lavender, menthol and Indian spices. Dense, suave and juicy, with a distinctly silky texture to the broad flavors of red fruits, menthol and spices. Utterly seamless, suave, classically dry Chapelle with outstanding energy and definition. Still tight today but the wine’s fine-grained tannins and superb breadth and length suggest that it will make a great bottle a decade hence.”

Mugnier Chambolle-Musigny Les Fuees 2011 ($299.95) $179 special 12 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 91 points “Bright medium red. Reticent aromas of raspberry, strawberry and crushed stone. Rounder and sweeter than the village wine, with sexy herb and spice notes giving lift to the supple middle palate. Really saturates the mouth on the rising, echoing finish. Has a solid tannic spine to support a graceful evolution in bottle. Showing more stuffing than it did from barrel a year ago.”

Mugnier Bonnes-Mares 2011 ($499.95) $389 special 6 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 94 points “Bright medium red. Briary crushed raspberry, white pepper and peony on the nose, accented by a piquant note of blood orange. Juicy, precise and penetrating, with lovely cut to the red fruit and spice flavors. Little greenness or earthiness showing. Finishes spicy, brisk, firm and very long. A great showing today; I might have picked this blind as the Amoureuses!”

Mugnier Musigny 2011 ($1399.95) $1199 special 1 bottle available
Stephen Tanzer 94 (+?) points “Deep, bright red. Closed but pure nose hints at pepper, spices, herbs and soil. Tougher and less fruity than the Bonnes-Mares, with more obvious tannins currently cutting off the wine’s finish. Distinctly darker in character than the Amoureuses, with the notes of spices, herbs and pepper carrying through on the palate and on the powerful, firmly tannic aftertaste. Quite uncompromising today but vibrant and very young.”

Serafin Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes 2011 ($119.95) $89 special 6 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 91 points “Bright medium red. Cherry, raspberry, smoke, minerals and pungent spices on the expressive nose. Sexy, tangy, sharply delineated flavors of red fruits and spices complicated by a whiff of game. Less dense than the 2012 version but displays lovely cut and vivacity. Finishes brisk and persistent. Serafin describes his 2011s as elegant and less tannic than his 2012s, and made from bigger grapes.  Crop levels were off only about 10% from average, making this vintage the closest to normal of the last four.”

Serafin Gevrey-Chambertin Les Fontenys 2011 ($159.95) $119 special 6 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 91 (+?) points “Moderately saturated medium red. Black cherry, raspberry and a whiff of meat on the nose, lifted by pungent pepper and blood orange treble notes. Less open than the village wine, showing lovely spicy lift to the flavors of red fruits and flowers. Juicy, elegant Gevrey with serious length and lingering spice character.”

Serafin Chambolle-Musigny Les Baudes 2011 ($149.95) $119 special 6 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 92 points “Bright, moderately saturated red. Spicy aromas of blackberry, licorice and violet. Tight and serious in the mouth, with dark berry and violet pastille flavors accompanied by strong coffee/mocha torrefaction. At once feminine and firm, finishing with sound tannins and acids. Very different in style from the Gevreys here.”

Serafin Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers 2011 ($219.95) $169 special 12 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 93 points “Moderately saturated medium red.  Very reticent but pure aromas of redcurrant, dark cherry, earth, leather and spices.  A dense, nicely balanced midweight, with ripe acidity giving shape to the cherry, licorice and espresso flavors.  Firmly tannic but with plenty of thickness of texture to support its backbone.  Finishes chewy and long but youthfully tight, with lovely aromatic persistence.  I’d hold this until 2020.”

Staff Picks

New Reviews from


SICILY

Gulfi Nerobufaleffj Sicilia Rosso 2008 ($49.95) $36 special 23 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 93 (+?) points “Bright, dark red. Very sweet, enticing aromas of red cherry, raspberry jam, cinnamon and marzipan. Sweet, dense and silky, with lovely life to the rich, ripe red cherry and red berry jam flavors. Finishes pure and very long, with a mineral nuance and melting tannins. This opulent, almost Amarone-like red handles its 14.5% alcohol gracefully and doesn’t come across as hot or heavy.  Nero d’Avola and Sicilian red wine do not get much better than this, although those who prefer their reds bone-dry might be less enthusiastic than I.”

Gulfi Nerobaronj Sicilia Rosso 2008($49.95) $31.90 special 24+ bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 94 points “Dark ruby-red. Aromas of black cherry, minerals and flowers are complicated by hints of capers and thyme on the captivating nose. Suave, sweet and fine-grained, with enticing suggestions of tobacco, dried flowers and fresh herbs. Very broad and lush yet somehow airy, this wine conveys a lovely light touch for what is usually a more pungently herbal wine. Finishes with broad tannins and lovely spicy lift. Made from 35-year-old vines on slightly calcareous soil, this may well be the best Nerobaronj vintage to date. ”

Tenuta delle Terre Nere Calderara Sottana Etna Rosso 2011 ($49.95) $39 special 24 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 90 points “Bright red. Pungent red berry, flint and floral aromas on the perfumed nose.  Then much sweeter and richer on the palate, with smooth red cherry and spice (cardamom, cinnamon, white pepper) flavors. Full and long, with a strong mineral quality.”

Tenuta delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso Santo Spirito 2011($49.95) $39 special 24 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 93 (+?) points “Bright red. Captivating aromas of red cherry, graphite, aromatic herbs and violet. Then rich, dense and suave in the mouth, offering ripe red cherry and red berry flavors and extremely silky tannins. The bright acidity gives this wine a refined, almost austere quality. Finishes very long and dry, but not drying. An absolute knockout of a wine, and the best Santo Spirito ever.  Made from a higher-altitude vineyard that usually delivers very fine, silky tannins, this wine is a major success in 2011, a year in which higher vineyards were generally penalized by rainfall.  If you know Barolo well–for example the wines of Monforte–then think of Etna’s Guardiola like Ginestra (more fleshy and tannic), while Santo Spirito is more like Bussia (powerful but graceful).”

Tenuta delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso Guardiola 2011 ($49.95) $39 special 24 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 92 (+?) points “Good full, deep red. Captivating, nuanced nose offers red cherry, redcurrant, brown spices, roast coffee, rose petal and licorice. Sweet and subtle on the palate, with a wonderful aromatic character over a firm, smoothly tannic spine. The long finish shows a lightly balsamic quality and hints of dried herbs and flinty spices.  This is bigger, richer and deeper than Santo Spirito, but needs time in the cellar thanks to high but harmonious acidity.”

Castellare I Sodi Di San Niccolo 2008 ($74.95) $49 special
Antonio Galloni 95+ points “The 2008 I Sodi di San Niccolo is especially dark, powerful and brooding in this vintage. Black fruit, smoke, tar and incense are some of the many notes that flow from a structured, tense frame. The 2008 will test the readers’ patience, but it has the stuffing and pedigree to develop into a splendid wine. This is a fabulous showing, especially within the context of the vintage. Today, the 2008 looks to be a great wine in the making. I Sodi di San Niccolo is 85% Sangioveto and 15% Malvasia Nera aged in French oak barrels, 50% new. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2028”.