Vinopolis December 30 Newsletter

 December 30, 2013

About this week:

Dec 30: regular hours 10AM-6PM
Dec 31: opening 9AM- closing 5PM
Jan 01 2014:  closed – Happy New Year
Jan 02: Open 10AM- Closing 6PM
Jan 03: Open 10 AM- Closing 6pm
Jan 04: Open 10 AM- Closing 6pm
Jan 05: Open Noon- Closing 5pm

Altesino Brunello di Montacino Riserva 2007 ($89.95) $59 jump start special
Wine Spectator 94 points “Pungent with balsamic and macchia underbrush aromas, this distinctive red also features cherry, leather and tobacco notes. The supple texture is offset by firm yet ripe and refined tannins. Excellent length.” James Suckling 95 points “Fine wine with fabulous aromas of tangerines and peaches with plums. So aromatic. Full body, with super polished tannins and a long, long finish. Drink or hold.”

USA- OREGON

Cameron Pinot Noir Arley’s Leap 2011 ($39.95) $33 special

Bow & Arrow Pinot Noir Medici Vineyard 2012 ($34.95) $28 special Vinopolpick
Dark, sappy, 5 spice, mineral.

FRANCE – CHAMPAGNE

Pierre Gimonnet Cuis 1er Brut Blanc de Blancs NV ($49.95) $39 special
Josh Raynolds 92 points “80% 2010 wine, 10% 2009, 4% 2008, 5% 2007 and 1% 2002; disgorged in May, 2013 after 30 months on its lees):  Green-tinged yellow.  Intense, mineral-accented aromas of orange zest, pear and white flowers, with an iodiney quality building in the glass.  Chewy in texture and nicely concentrated, offering precise citrus and bitter quinine flavors and a strong topnote of dusty minerals.  Finishes clean, bright and very long, with lingering chalkiness.  This would make a superb match with fresh oysters or crab.”

Pierre Gimonnet Cuvee Gastronome Brut Blanc de Blancs 2008 ($59.95) $49 special
Wine Advocate 92 points “The 2008 Brut Chardonnay Premier Cru Cuvee Gastronome is a blend of fruit from Chouilly, Cuis, Cramant, Oger and Vertus. Here the fruit begins to take on slightly greater textural richness and depth. Crisp yellow-fleshed fruits, flowers, almonds and spices are all woven together beautifully. The 2008 stands out for its inner perfume, sweetness and inviting personality. ”

Pierre Gimonnet Cuvee Paradoxe Brut  2006 ($59.95) $49 special
Wine Spectator 94 points “Toasted brioche and almond notes add a smoky richness to this minerally Champagne, which offers a briny oyster shell accent to the flavors of apple tarte Tatin, black currant, grated ginger and citrus zest. Refined and creamy in texture, with a long, mouthwatering finish.

Pierre Gimonnet Cuvee Fleuron Brut  Blanc de Blancs 2006 ($69.95) $59 special
Josh Raynolds 93 points “Pale gold.  Smoky pear and nectarine aromas are brightened by zesty minerals and deepened by hints of toasty lees and iodine.  Intense orchard fruit and melon flavors stain the palate, picking up citrus pith and floral honey qualities with air.  Turns firmer and more minerally with air, finishing with excellent lift and smoky persistence.”

Pierre Gimonnet Cuvee Oenophile Extra Brut  Blanc de Blancs 2005 ($69.95) $59 special
Burghound 93 points “A markedly yeasty nose features notes of baked apple, pear and lovely spice aromas that complement well the rich, delicious and solidly powerful flavors that coat the mouth on the notably dry and impressively complex flavors. Like many ’05s, this is a big Champagne yet there is absolutely no heaviness and as dry as the finish is, it is not austere. This has arrived at a point where it could easily be enjoyed now or, if you prefer the taste of well-aged flavors, could continue to be cellared to good effect. In a word, impressive.”

Pierre Gimonnet Special Club Brut 2005 ($79.95) $69 special
Wine Advocate 92 points “Gimonnet’s 2005 Brut Special Club is made predominantly from old vines in Cramant, Oger and Cuis. It offers better balance than the 2005 Non Dose, as a little dosage, in this case 5 grams per liter, unleashes the aromatics and fruit to a considerable degree. Pears, pastry, lemon oil, almonds and exotic flowers all meld together nicely. The 2005 Special Club remains tightly wound and vibrant, with none of the awkward notes that are found in so many wines in this vintage. ”

Pierre Gimonnet Vintage Collection Brut 2005 1.5L ($199.95) $169 special
Antonio Galloni – Vinous 94 points “The 2005 Brut Vintage Collection, tasted from magnum, is stunning. Intense, layered and drop-dead gorgeous, the 2005 covers every corner of the palate with layers of mineral-infused fruit. Smoke, slate, crushed rocks and flowers appear later, adding gorgeous dimensions of pure nuance. Still young, the 2005 appears to have a bright future. This is one of the best 2005 vintage Champagnes I have tasted. The 2005 is 100% Chardonnay from Cramant, Chouilly and Cuis. This bottle was disgorged in January 2013 after spending 84 months on its lees.”

FRANCE – BURGUNDY

Serafin Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes 2011 ($119.95) $89 special
Stephen Tanzer 89-91 points “Explosive aromas and flavors of blackberry, black raspberry, smoke and minerals.  Rich, smooth and concentrated, with its fairly full texture leavened by ripe acidity.  But ultimately less harmonious and more backward than the regular village offering, finishing with substantial dusty tannins.  These vines, mostly adjacent to premier crus in Gevrey, average 60 years of age.  A very serious village wine in the making.”

Serafin Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Corbeaux 2011 ($119.95) $99 special
Burghound 89-92 points, Stephen Tanzer 89-91 points “Bright, full medium red.  Raspberry, blueberry and blackberry fruit aromas are complicated by smoky minerality.  Quite closed in the mouth, with brisk acidity contributing to an impression of firm structure.  Not a silky style, but serious and persistent.  The high level of CO2 is no doubt responsible for some of the wine’s present hardness.”

Serafin Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Fontenys 2011 ($149.95) $119 special
Burghound 90-92 points, Stephen Tanzer 90-92 points “(from vines averaging 55 years of age):  Good deep red.  Aromas of blackberry, smoke and minerals, plus a whiff of gibier.  Silky, dense and concentrated, showing a very fine-grained texture to the dark berry flavors.  Still youthfully tight on the back end but this is essentially a feminine style of Gevrey, with a creaminess that comes from small berries.”

Serafin Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Cazetiers 2011 ($199.95) $169 special
Burghound 91-94 points, Stephen Tanzer 91-94 points “Bright, deep red.  Enticing aromas of black raspberry, smoky minerality and musky oak.  Rich, dense and sweet but juicy too, thanks to gripping acidity.  Really sappy premier cru with captivating inner-mouth tension to the flavors of dark berries and soil-driven minerality.  Finishes strong and long, with the firm tannins nicely supported by the wine’s dense mid-palate fruit.  The crop level here was a healthy 40 hectoliters per hectare, noted Serafin.”

Serafin Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru 2011 ($249.95) $219 special
Burghound 92-95 points, Stephen Tanzer 92-95 points “Good saturated dark red.  Sexy aromas of dark berries, smoke and minerals.  Lush and sweet on the palate, with an intriguing musky quality to the highly concentrated blackberry, game and mineral flavors.  Really silky and seamless but with terrific spine.  Finishes sappy and very long.  A very stylish wine of great charm, this has the balance to give early pleasure but should really be laid down for a minimum of five or six years.”

Serafin Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Baudes 2011 ($149.95) $119 special
Burghound 90-92 points “A discreet touch of wood sets off very pretty red currant and warm earth suffused aromas. There is excellent concentration to the extract-rich mid-palate that imparts a textured mouth feel to the otherwise dusty and moderately austere finish. There is good muscle and firmness present and this is very Baudes, which is to say a small-scaled Bonnes Mares”

Serafin Morey-St-Denis 1er Cru Millandes 2011 ($149.95) $119 special
Burghound 90-93 points “Here too there is mild reduction which renders the nose difficult to assess in depth though again the underlying fruit appears to be ripe. There is excellent volume, power and a taut muscularity to the concentrated and mineral-tinged medium weight flavors that culminate in an austere, backward and highly persistent finish. This is very old school in style and will require ample patience for it to develop, yet will be well worth the wait.”

Cecile Tremblay Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru 2011 ($249.95) $199 special
Burghound 91-94 points “A distinctly toasty nose of subtle spice, earth and very cool yet ripe dark berry fruit aromas that are trimmed in both wet stone and plenty of floral character. There is gorgeous intensity to the mineral-driven large-scaled flavors that possess outstanding delineation on the extract-rich mid-palate before culminating in a refined yet serious finish that delivers excellent length. Very impressive.”

Cecile Tremblay Chambolle-Musigny Fuesselottes  2011 ($149.95) $119 special
Burghound 89-92 points “A gorgeously pure nose features notes of wild red berry fruit and a lovely mix of floral elements that includes rose petal and violets. There is fine detail to the intensely mineral-driven medium weight flavors that possess that wonderful sense of underlying tension on the dusty, balanced, complex and lingering finish. A classic Chambolle that should reward a decade or more of cellar time.”

FRANCE – RHONE 

Jamet Cote Rotie 2009 ($119.95) $99 special
Wine Spectator 97 points “A stunner, with captivating damson plum, bitter cherry, blood orange and blackberry fruit all melded together and lined with savory, black olive, rosemary and saucisson sec notes. The finish delivers mouthwatering cut, with an iron frame that should carry this easily for two decades. A distinctive and singular expression of old-school Côte-Rôtie.”

  FRANCE – LOIRE

Pepiere Muscadet Sevre et Maine Sur Lie Clos des Briords 2012 ($21.95) $18 special
Marc Plouzeau Touraine Ante Phylloxera Clos de Maulevrier 2011 ($59.95) $49 special

GERMANY   

JJ Prum Bernkasteler Kabinett 2011 ($21.95) $17 special
To avoid confusion, this is not the Badstube bottling; but it is a very Prum Kabinett, and a great value.

AJ Adam Dhronhofberger Riesling Kabinett 2011 ($27.95) $24 special
Wine Advocate 92 points “Talcum and orange blossom fetchingly scent Adam’s 2011 Dhronhofberger Riesling Kabinett, then join white peach on a luscious, delicate, subtly creamy palate, with a sense of wafting inner-mouth perfume as well as nut cream and wet stone undertones lasting into a refreshing finish, where the effects of a small lot of wine with unusually high acidity are noticeable and engender a certain largely productive tension. As this opened to the air, a sense of interactive dynamic between its fruit and flowers on the one hand and emerging stony, alkaline, and saline notes on the other served to heighten an already high level of stimulation. This should be a delight to follow for the next 15 years or so and will probably gain in nuanced complexity.”

AJ Adam Dhroner Hofberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs 2012 ($79.95) $59 special
AJ Adam Piesporter Goldtropfchen Riesling Grosses Gewachs 2012 ($99.95) $79 special
Terry Thiese “Sterner stuff than the village wine; pointed intense aromas of blueberries and white iris and candied lemon. The palate is off the hinges! Entirely harmonious, rampantly exotic and rich, it’s like a Pfalz GG with more grace and less earthiness. Pink peppercorn and powder-puff, ginger and mustard-seed; stern slate on the finish after this thrill-ride of improbable elements for Riesling. The empty glass even smells a little like Savignin.”

  SPAIN- RIBERA DEL DUERO

Pingus Flor de Pingus 2011 ($99.95) $69 super special
Wine Advocate 93-95 points “The 2011 Flor de Pingus demonstrates wonderful purity on the nose, perhaps more feminine and wily than the 2010 with luscious raspberry, blackberry and forest floor notes. The palate is full-bodied with filigree tannins and a little more volume than the 2010. It seems generous and very supple at this early juncture with a caressing, peppery finish that is extremely well focused. There 2011 has awesome potential and I cannot wait to taste this after two or three years in bottle.”

 

Chateau de la Liquiere Faugeres Vieilles Vignes 2011 ($19.95) $16 special
Chateau de la Liquiere Faugeres Nos Racines 2011 ($24.95) $20.90 special
An intensely flavorful pair from the moonscape rock pit that is Faugeres. The torrid climate and the vine-ages combine to yield wines that are really more reminiscent of Spain’s Priorat than of the Languedoc or Rhone. The VV bottling is Syrah, Grenache, & Cariginan, and the fruitier of the two. The Racines is mostly Carignan, and its tone is more towards spice and leather.

Tenuta Arceno Il Fauno Toscana 2008 ($29.95) $20.90 super special
Wine Advocate 94 points “A blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Sangiovese and Petit Verdot, the 2008 Il Fauno di Arcanum opens with an inky dark color and perfectly ripe aromas of plump cherry and blackberry. Beyond the enticing fruit aromas is a long list of spice and tobacco-related characteristics. This is a thickly layered and opulent Tuscan blend that is enhanced by territory-driven aromas of grilled herb and rosemary oil. The best part for me, however, is the soft richness this wine delivers in the mouth. Anticipated maturity 2014-2027.”

Nekeas Vega Sindoa El Chaparral Garnacha Old Vines 2011 ($17.95) $9.90 super special
Josh Raynolds 91 points “(malo in small French oak, followed by five months of aging on its lees):  Brilliant ruby.  Highly perfumed, exotic aromas of black and blue fruits, vanilla and incense, with a floral overtone.  Lush, expansive blackberry and boysenberry flavors stain the palate, picking up a smoky nuance with air.  Velvety and broad but lively too, finishing with impressive breadth spicy persistence for its price range.  All of these wines are ridiculous values, as they have been in most recent vintages.”

 

Domaine de  Pegau Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Reservee 2010 ($119.95) $95 special
Wine Spectator 97 points #7 Top 100 2013 “Intense, with the tarry, bittersweet cocoa-fueled grip of the vintage running through a well-endowed core of crushed plum, blackberry paste and braised fig. The muscular finish picks up notes of brick dust, pepper, warm chestnut leaf and smoldering charcoal. A throwback profile, with a hyperripe core of fruit—and it works. Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and others. Best from 2015 through 2035.” Robert Parker 98 points “Looking at the 2010s and a brilliant vintage for Laurence, the 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape offers up classic Pegau aromas and flavors of ripe dark fruits, garrigue, cured meats, tobacco leaf, saddle leather and hints of game. Full-bodied and beautifully concentrated, it offers a seamless, layered profile on the palate with thrilling mid-palate depth, sweet, yet substantial tannin, and a blockbuster finish that stays fresh and beautifully focused. Quite polished by this estates standards, it nevertheless screams southern France and I doubt it’s possible to have too much of this beauty in the cellar. It will absolutely thrill over the coming 2-3 decades.”

Chateau Canon La Gaffeliere St Emilion 2010 ($179.95) $149 special
Wine Spectator 96 points #2 Top 100 2013 “This takes the power of the vintage and puts it in its pocket for later, preferring instead to let mouthwatering briar, loganberry, mulberry and blackberry fruit strut its way forward, enlivened with roasted wood spice and supported by suavely but thoroughly embedded iron-tinged structure. Should cruise for two decades. Best from 2016 through 2035 .”

Giuseppe Mascarello Barolo Monprivato 2008 ($119.95) $99 special
Wine Spectator 95 points #6 Top 100 2013 “Detailed and fragrant, offering floral, strawberry, cherry, licorice and spice flavors, this is elegant and underlined by a strong mineral streak. Well-proportioned, picking up intensity and complexity on the long, savory finish. Extremely fresh and classy”

Belle Pente Estate Reserve Pinot Noir 2010 ($49.95) $39 special
Josh Raynolds 93 points “Bright ruby-red.  A highly complex bouquet displays sexy red berry preserve, incense and candied rose scents, along with suggestions of cola, mocha and allspice.  Sappy, deeply concentrated cherry and raspberry flavors are lifted and braced by juicy acidity and show excellent clarity and thrust.  Closes with palate-staining intensity and sweetness, leaving suave floral and Asian spice notes behind.  Impressively balanced and fine-grained, with serious cellaring potential.”

Beaux Freres Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 2011 ($59.95) $49 special
Wine Spectator 93 points “The satiny texture lets the harmonious flavors of red berry, pomegranate and spice unfurl evocatively. The finish lingers enticingly. Shows freshness and impeccable balance. Drink now through 2020. 2,000 cases made”

Bergstrom Cumberland Reserve Pinot Noir 2012 ($44.95) $39 special
The Cumberland Reserve is barrel selection blend encompassing all five Bergstrom Estate vineyards. Josh B. has restaurants in mind with choosing barrels for the Cumberland Reserve; it is always more open and forward than any of the single vineyard bottlings; at release time and for a few years post release. The 2012 is laden with dark fruits and spice, and is classically structured with a frame of fine ripe tannins. This is the wine that most completely told us that the 2012 vintage Pinot Noirs, which will be mostly released  throughout 2014 contain the promise of something very special.

Bruno Giacosa Barolo Le Rocche del Falletto 2005 ($249.95) $179 special
Wine Advocate 96+ points “The 2005 Barolo Le Rocche del Falletto is a massive, towering Barolo loaded with tons of rich, primary fruit. The wine remains powerful, dense and muscular with superb length even if it is a smaller-scaled Barolo compared to previous great vintages. That said, when I came back to the wine after it had been in the glass for an hour or so, I found that the wine had grown remarkably.”

G. Mascarello Barolo Ca di Morissio 2004 ($399.95) $349 special
Wine Spectator 98 points “Settling into a phase of maturation, this powerful red offers floral, truffle, macerated cherry, leather and spice aromas and flavors. Sweet and balanced, with fruit, mineral and savory elements lingering on the aftertaste. Still youthful, this remains approachable, and should peak in a year or two. Best from 2015 through 2040.”

Molanari Cerbaiona Brunello di Montalcino 2005 ($149.95) $89 super special
Antonio Galloni 93 points “The 2005 Brunello di Montalcino impresses for its elegance, balance and class. Silky, finessed tannins frame dark cherries, flowers, minerals, menthol, tobacco and spices. The 2005 doesn’t have the kaleidoscopic, multi-dimensional personality of the finest Brunellos here (at Cerbaiona), but it reveals outstanding length and plenty of style, albeit in a smaller-scaled, lithe expression of this site. Ideally, readers should open the wine several hours prior to serving. It is a wonderful effort in this vintage. 2010-2020.”

Masi Amarone Campolongo di Torbe 2001 ($149.95) $99 special
Antonio Galloni 91 points “The 2001 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Superiore Campolongo di Torbe reveals notable complexity in its suggestions of leather, spices, plums, prunes and roasted coffee beans. As one might rightfully expect of a wine of this age, the fruit is no longer vibrant, yet the wine possesses terrific length and finessed tannins. This could almost be mistaken for a mature Burgundy.”

And these arriving tomorrow:

Punset Barbaresco Campo Quadro 2004 ($59.95) $49 special
Wine Advocate 95 points “Going back one more year, the 2004 Barbaresco Campo Quadro opens with a lean, garnet color and pretty aromas of old spice and dried berry fruit. The wine is streamlined and thin in texture, but the tannins are still very present at the back. Aging-wise, the wine is on its way. But it’s not quite there yet. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025. In the 1980s, after graduating from high school, Marina Marcarino bet her father that she could run the family winery in Barbaresco at a profit. He gave her one year to try. If she won, she could take over management. If she lost, she’d enroll in civil engineering classes at the local university. After a grueling 12 months, she closed her accounting books with a profit of less than 100 Euros, or 100,000 Lira at the time. But she won the wager and became the first female vintner in the Langhe.”