In Today’s Newsletter:
Trinity Hill Homage – New Zealand Icon
Vinopolis Beaujolais Spectacular
Featuring Classic Producers + Up and Comers
From Every Single Cru!
Deals abound on the September Sale!
hile most in the Northern Hemisphere think of New Zealand for Pinot Noir, perhaps the best wines to come out of the tiny nation are Syrahs from the Gimblett Gravels region of Hawkes Bay. Deep, powerful and rich, they nonetheless possess stunning cool-climate aromatics that give them a combination of grace and power that’s truly special. They’re special wines that are exceedingly rare outside of their home country—domestic demand is intense and most of the time the best stuff gets consumed there.
Trinity Hill is the top winery in Hawkes bay and their top Syrah, called Homage, is one of New Zealand’s landmark wines. It’s incredibly hard to source anywhere in the world, much less the Northern Hemisphere and so when we had an opportunity to buy a parcel we jumped on it. As you’ll see from the scores below, most of the critical attention is from critics in New Zealand and Australia—it’s hard to find a “traditional” reviewer with a take on the wine, but the scores from those that specialize in Australia and New Zealand point to something worth obsessing about.
Making this even more of a coup, the price we’re offering it at is barely above what you’d pay in New Zealand and is far below other offers here in the states. Unfortunately, we were only able to secure thirty bottles, so this should go quickly. They arrive tomorrow, suitable for drinking this fall and winter or for sleeping in your cellar for a while.
Arriving Tomorrow:
Trinity Hill Homage Syrah, Gimblett Gravels 2013 750ML ($119.95) $89 pre-arrival special
Raymond Chan 100 points “Very dark, near saturated black-hued purple-red colour. The nose is very intense, but elegantly proportioned with a tightly bound and concentrated core of aromatic black berried fruits interwoven with an array of black and violet florals, and entwined with exotic herbs, Asian and Middle Eastern spices, liquorice and nutty elements. This is complex, detailed and absolutely refined with its depth and penetration. Medium-full bodied, the palate has elegance and concentration alongside intensity and depth. The flavours of ripe black berried fruits are seamlessly interwoven with an amazing spread of aromatics, showing waves of black and violet florals, spices, liquorice and complexing minerals. The fruit is supported by extremely refined, flowery tannins, the extraction and structure guiding the velvety flow. This has linearity, energy, drive and finesse, and the wine flows effortlessly to a concentrated, supple, refined and extended finish of black fruits, liquorice, spices and florals. This is a beautifully complex, refined, elegant and concentrated Syrah with black fruits, complexing detail and an amazing array of aromatics. Match with lamb, beef, venison and game meat, and semi-hard cheeses over the next 10-15+ years. 98.7% Syrah, predominantly MS clone from 18 y.o. vines and 1.3% Viognier, the fruit 85% from the Gimblett Gravels and 15% from ‘The Hillside’ vineyard behind the winery on Roys Hill.”
Sam Kim 98 points “This is a wine of exceptional elegance and extraordinary poise. Grapes from their Gimblett Gravels vineyard make up the majority of the blend (85%) with the remaining coming from their hillside vineyard behind the winery. An exquisitely composed and styled, the wine shows scintillating clarity as well as fine layers of delicate complexity. Aromas of dark plum, blueberry, floral and mixed spice with nuances of game, dried herb and cedar on the nose. The palate is fine, concentrated and flowing, and shows superb harmony and balance, beautifully framed by abundance of polished tannins. So silky. It is hard to believe there was 30% whole bunch in the ferment, with 28-day average time on skin with one component spending 56 days. No bitterness or edgy mouthfeel, it is rather beautifully rounded and smooth, yet properly structured. A wine needing time to show its full glory. At its best: 2020 to 2033. ”
Bob Campbell 97 points “Deep, ruby-tinted Syrah with plum, dark berry, vanilla, chocolate, new leather and black pepper flavours supported by a firm backbone of fine, ripe tannins. Big, complex red that has obviously been built for the long haul if a little hard to read at this early stage. Tasted three months later, the wine is certainly more accessible with an intense aroma and a subtle violet/floral note. Classy oak but a strong fruit focus. A truly long-distance runner. ”
James Suckling 97 points ” A super-polished wine that has a broad array of fruits: raspberry, blackberry and cassis, with white pepper, graphite and a clear whole-bunch lift. The palate has a powerful, focused core of concentrated dark plum and cassis, boldly spicy, then dark chocolate to close. Best from 2019.”
A Vinopolis Beaujolais Spectacular
Beaujolais is delicious all throughout the year, from the heat of summer through the cool of winter, but it’s in the autumn that it seems to fit and taste best. As the air cools, we want a real red wine, but we aren’t ready to cry uncle yet and settle into months of braises and pensive wines. Beaujolais fills that need perfectly—it has some of the earthiness of Burgundy but with a bit more vibrancy and brightness.
If you’ve been reading the newsletter for any length of time, you’d know that we’re big fans of the wines of Beaujolais. We stock a ton of different bottlings from growers both established and up-and-coming, from a variety of the different crus in the region. There may be no other place in the world that offers this combination of quality and value across so many different producers. We’re featuring a ton of our favorites today, village by village, to get you set for fall drinking (and onward). Also note, though, that as extensive as this list is, it’s not all of the Beaujolais we have in stock right now. To see that category on our website just click here.
Domaine Jean Foillard Morgon Cote du Py, Beaujolais 2016 750ML ($44.95) $39 special
Domaine Jean Foillard Morgon Cote du Py, Beaujolais 2016 1.5L ($99.95) $89 special
Nick Stock – JamesSuckling.com 96 points “Crushed violets and attractive dark strawberries and raspberries on the nose with a slightly flinty, stony edge of graphite. The palate has depth and density, which set it apart from the Corcelette. More depth and richness here. A long, powerful and deep-set palate. Acidity holds the finish fresh. Needs a year or two. Drink from 2020.”
Josh Raynolds 95 points “Lurid ruby. An expansive, mineral-accented bouquet displays powerful red and dark berry, incense and potpourri qualities, and a Moroccan spice nuance adds urgency and lift. Bright, seamless and alluringly sweet, offering palate-staining black raspberry, blueberry, violet pastille and spicecake flavors that slowly firm up with aeration. Shows superb depth and clarity, with nary a rough edge to be found. Closes supple, sweet and insanely long, leaving a sexy floral note behind.”The baby Foillard is fantastic stuff.
Domaine Jean Foillard Morgon, Beaujolais 2016 750ML ($29.95) $26 special
James Suckling 93 points “Wonderful aromas of dark cherry, citrus and hints of banana from the whole berry fermentation. Medium to full body, light tannins yet shows grip and minerality from the combination of bright acidity and slate soils. A beautiful encore from the excellent 2015. Made from organically grown grapes. Drink now.”
For many this wine defines Morgon (and Beaujolais).
Domaine Marcel Lapierre Morgon, Beaujolais 2016 750ML ($34.95) $28 special
Domaine Marcel Lapierre Morgon, Beaujolais 2016 1.5L ($69.95) $59 special
Josh Raynolds-Vinous 93 points “Brilliant ruby-red. A highly perfumed bouquet evokes fresh red berries, cherry pit, smoky minerals and candied flowers. Offers sappy, sharply focused raspberry, bitter cherry and lavender flavors that show very good depth and pick up a hint of five-spice powder with air. Fine-grained tannins give shape to a very long, mineral-accented finish that shows excellent clarity and incisive cut. This bottling gets a sulfur addition and its back label has the letter “S” on the left-hand side.”
Grapelive 93 points “…Lapierre’s dad Marcel was a leader in organic and natural wines and Mathieu and his sister Camille have carried on his legendary example with exceptional care in the vines and in the cellar. These are wines that have always shown what well-crafted natural wine can be. They are pure, elegant and clean wines with an authentic and soulful expression of terroir and heritage. While still not taking themselves too seriously… these are wines you drink with a sense of awe and with much laughter and a huge smile on your face! This is absolutely Gamay perfection, made whole cluster from 60 years old vines and aged in well used Burgundy barrels, with no adornments, juicy, but wonderful in balance, beautifully perfumed and texture showing fine silky tannins and energy. The 2016 delivers a rich vein of bright cherry, fruity/juicy strawberry and wild black plum notes, a hint of cedar/walnut, sweet star anise, dried basil, mineral tones and violet. With air some savory tones, earth, spice and mineral add to the complex detail come through with delicious subtly, there’s no wonder why these are so sought after, I love it. This is a Gamay wonderland, not as concentrated as 2015, but joyously lively and almost crisply refreshing. Drink now.”
Domaine Marcel Lapierre Morgon Roche du Py ‘Cuvee Camille’, Beaujolais 2016 750ML ($44.95) $38 special
Domaine Marcel Lapierre Morgon Roche du Py ‘Cuvee Camille’, Beaujolais 2016 1.5L ($89.95) $79 special
Josh Raynolds 94 points “Brilliant ruby-red. A highly perfumed bouquet evokes fresh red fruits, Asian spices and minerals, along with an exotic touch of incense in the background. In a distinctly elegant style, offering appealingly sweet raspberry, lavender pastille and spicecake flavors that show very good depth as well as finesse. A spine of juicy acidity adds support and cut to an impressively long, floral-driven finish that’s shaped by silky, harmonious tannins.”
Domaine Mee Godard Morgon Cote de Py, Beaujolais 2014 750ML ($37.95) $29 special
Josh Raynolds-Vinous 93 points “Bright ruby-red. Heady, mineral-accented aromas of ripe cherry and red berries, with a peppery nuance adding vivacity. At once concentrated and lively, offering intense raspberry and bitter cherry flavors and a sneaky suggestion of spicecake. Picks up a sexy lavender pastille quality on the incisive, sharply focused finish, which hangs on with outstanding tenacity and building minerality.”
Chateau de Pizay Morgon, Beaujolais 2016 750ML ($17.95) $14 special
Case-12 Chateau de Pizay Morgon, Beaujolais 2016 750ML ($219.95) $149 special (that’s only $12.42/bottle!)
Josh Raynolds-Vinous 90 points “Vivid ruby. Lively cherry and raspberry aromas are energized by a bracing suggestion of peppery spices. Silky and precise on the palate, offering bitter cherry and red berry flavors that turn sweeter and rounder with air. Silky tannins lend shape to a lively finish that leaves a hint of bitter cherry pit behind.”
Domaine de la Chapelle des Bois Morgon ‘Les Rontay’, Beaujolais 2014 750ML ($21.95) $19 special
Importer note “Chantal and Eric Coudert-Appert, the proprietors of the Domaine de la Chapelle des Bois, represent the seventh generation of this family line to work the vineyards of this estate in the heart of Fleurie. The domaine comprises 8.4 hectares of vineyards, all of which are hand-harvested. This energetic couple follows the precepts of “lutte raisonnée” when working the vineyards, which is to say they use an organic approach, treating the vines only when absolutely necessary to produce a healthy, ripe crop. At Domaine de la Chapelle des Bois, the wines are vinified in a traditional manner using a “semi-carbonic” maceration. The cuvaison extends for 10 to 15 days depending on the specific cuvée. A grill placed on top of the cuve and then partially submerged is often utilized during the fermentation period to keep the solid matter in continuous contact with the fermenting juice; this process of extraction is supplemented by a twice-a-day “remontage” or pumping of the juice over the solids during the cuvaison.”
Chateau Grange Cochard Morgon Cote du Puy, Beaujolais 2014 750ML ($27.95) $24 special
Josh Raynolds–Vinous 93 points “Deep ruby. Mineral-accented cherry and blackberry aromas are underscored by a spicy element that gains strength as the wine opens up. Sappy and penetrating, offering sweet dark berry flavors with complicating suggestions of star anise and violet. The spice and floral qualities build steadily through an impressively long, sappy finish, which is framed by harmonious tannins that fold easily into the intense fruit.”
Fleurie
Fleurie has one of the more beautiful, dramatic landscapes in Beaujolais—the hills here are a bit steeper, the roads a bit more curved and the vineyards a bit harder to work. As you’d guess from the name of the village, the wines here are a bit softer, elegant and more floral. Fleurie is charming Beaujolais, but with real depth, nuance and intensity. (It also pays to note that the wines that originate near the border of Moulin-a-Vent, like Clos de la Roillette, are far more firm and structured.)
Fleurie is a perfect choice for a red that you want to make you smile and also challenge your intellect. The best examples age and develop for years, but we tend to like them in the flush of their youth, when they’re bursting with primary fruit. Fleurie is a classic bistro wine for a reason and can pair with nearly anything.
Classic Producers:
Much like in Burgundy, Drouhin’s Hospice bottlings are great.
Joseph Drouhin Domaine des Hospices de Belleville Fleurie, Beaujolais 2015 750ML ($27.95) $21.90 special
James Suckling 93 points “This is very linear and refined with beautiful tannins and minerality. Medium-bodied, very pretty and focused. Tight and polished. Serious.”
Josh Raynolds 92 points “Vivid ruby. Very fresh and expressive on the nose, offering intense cherry and red berry liqueur qualities and a smoky mineral overtone. Shows very good freshness and thrust on the palate; vivacious raspberry and bitter cherry flavors become sweeter on the back half. Displays excellent clarity and delineation and closes long and sweet, featuring lingering red fruit character and harmonious tannins.”
Vissoux is possibly the best value in Beaujolais and Garants is a stud.
Pierre-Marie Chermette Domaine du Vissoux Fleurie les Garants, Beaujolais 2016 750ML ($29.95) $26 special
Case-12 Pierre-Marie Chermette Domaine du Vissoux Fleurie les Garants, Beaujolais 2016 750ML ($339.95) $279 special (that’s only $23.25/bottle!)
Josh Raynolds 92 points “Vivid ruby. Aromas of fresh dark berries, candied violet and smoky minerals pick up a hint of allspice with air. Sweet and nicely concentrated, offering juicy boysenberry and blackberry flavors and a touch of licorice. Finishes sappy and smooth, showing excellent persistence, lingering spiciness and dusty tannins that sneak in slowly.”
VinopolNote: Although the recent press for the Mouin-a-Vent has pushed it to the forefront of the Vissoux collection, the two Fleuries from Pierre-Marie Chemette have traditionally been the estate’s calling card. The Garants vineyard is on what the Domaine describes as “noble granite soil” and is the more structured, age-worthy of the two Fleuries. This is rich and structured, with some of the classic perfume of Fleurie, but also an iron-rich depth in its core.
Poncie is the more typical Fleurie of the pairing.
Pierre-Marie Chermette Domaine du Vissoux Fleurie Poncie, Beaujolais 2016 750ML ($29.95) $26 special
Case-12 Pierre-Marie Chermette Domaine du Vissoux Fleurie Poncie, Beaujolais 2016 750ML ($339.95) $279 special (that’s only $23.25/bottle!)
Josh Raynolds 93 points “Deep, bright-rimmed ruby. A highly perfumed bouquet evokes fresh red/blue fruits, exotic spices and floral pastilles, and a zesty mineral nuance builds in the glass. Sweet and penetrating on the palate, offering concentrated, spice-inflected black raspberry and boysenberry flavors that caress the palate. The floral note comes back strong on an impressively long, energetic finish that’s given shape by silky, even tannins.”
William Kelley-Wine Advocate 93 points “Chermette’s 2016 Fleurie Poncié is beautiful, wafting from the glass with a bright bouquet of raspberries, rose petal and red cherries. On the palate, the wine is medium-bodied, satiny and transparent, with melting tannins and a suppleness and purity that belie its quiet intensity and concentration. As in all his 2016s, the balance is pitch-perfect, and while this can be drunk now with unabashed pleasure, it can easily evolve for a decade or more. Anyone who has experienced the glories of “méthode ancienne” Beaujolais from the 1950s and 1960s will find more than an echo of those wines here. The vines in Poncié are 35 years old and grow in a sloping vineyard of degraded pink granite, exposed to the southeast.”
Domaine Jean Foillard Fleurie, Beaujolais 2015 750ML ($59.95) $49 special
Nick Stock– JamesSuckling.com 94 points “A vibrant, elegant wine that is quite open. Violets and crushed blueberries, as well as raspberries and wild cherries with iodine and hints of graphite. The palate has a very energetic and supple feel. The refined tannins have an almost chalky texture. Sapid, ripe and fresh. Drink or hold.”
Magnum only, but you’re going to want that much.
Jean Louis Dutraive (Domaine de la Gran’Cour) Fleurie ‘Chapelle des Bois’, Beaujolais 2015 1.5L ($99.95) $89 special
Josh Raynolds-Vinous 93 points “Bright violet. A suave, highly perfumed bouquet evokes ripe red fruits, Asian spices and smoky minerals, along with a sexy lavender overtone. Sweet raspberry, floral pastille and spicecake flavors show impressive depth as well as vivacity. In a distinctly elegant, seamless style, especially for the vintage, but there’s also good structure here thanks to a core of juicy acidity. The very long, floral-dominated finish is given shape by smooth tannins that fold quickly into the plush, appealingly sweet fruit.”
Names to Watch:
Big, rich and provocative.
Julie Balagny Fleurie Sex-Appeal, Beaujolais 2015 750ML ($69.95) $59 special
VinopolNote: After heading the cellar of the Terre des Chardons, Julie Balagny, with the help of Yvon Metras and Michel Vigner, purchased her property in Fleurie and established a biodynamic domaine.
“She embraces the challenges of natural viticulture and natural vinification with an ardor one rarely finds among the region’s more established natural winemakers, whose seniority and generational experience have instilled a plodding realism that borders on pessimism at times… Where and when one manages to find Balagny’s work, it’s often extraordinary. The best bottles combine the electric acid-focus of Max Breton’s wines with some of the suppleness and depth of Métras’ Fleurie. If she hasn’t yet attained the consistency of either winemaker’s production, it only endows her bottles with an excitement all their own. Hers is long, rosey, iron-boned gamay, out there on the edge, like its maker.”–Aaron Ayscough, Not Drinking Poison in Paris
Beautiful and amazingly under $20.
Domaine de la Chapelle des Bois Fleurie Cuvee Vieilles Vignes de la Cadole, Beaujolais 2014 750ML ($21.95) $19 special
“This cuvée of Fleurie is sourced from a single parcel planted to vines eighty years old. In contrast to the other wines of the domaine, this special selection is aged 12 months in large, older foudres to best express its formidable character. Surprisingly, this structured wine is supremely elegant and fine; and, it is surely capable of providing pleasure over an extended period of time.”–Importer note
Anne-Sophie Dubois Fleurie Clepsydre, Beaujolais 2016 750ML ($31.95) $27 special
Wine & Spirits 93 points “This is Dubois’ old-vine cuvee, from a 60-year-old high-density planting. She agres it for a year in neutral barriques, toning the fruit’s textural beauty. Its tight floral scents open up to velvety, voluptuous flavors of cherry liqueur and fresher wild strawberry. A resinous, spruce-like edge to the acidity keeps all that fruit in shape, directing you toward another sip. Worth of age, this is also delicious now with rillettes.”
VinopolNote: Clepsydre is the French word for ‘water clock’ and denotes the most age-worthy of the wines that Dubois makes. It still has her trademark elegance but with more richness and power than her other wines. One to lay down or decant before opening, for sure.
Anne-Sophie Dubois Fleurie l’Alchimiste, Beaujolais 2016 750ML ($29.95) $24 special
VinopolNote: This is Dubois flagship wine, from a southwest-facing section of Fleurie on mostly granite soils. The wine is clearly a product of a Burgundy-style vinification (as opposed to carbonic maceration) but seems to channel the soul of Fleurie with dark and red fruits, floral notes and pretty spice flavors. Delicious.
Named after a famous windmill near the town, Moulin-a-Vent is the most historically famous town in Beaujolais. The wines from the village were famous going back to the 19th century, known for their ageworthiness, complexity and depth. In fact, some wines from Moulin-a-Vent were priced like quality Burgundy, so great was their renown.
Thankfully, that sort of pricing doesn’t hold true today, but the wines of Moulin-a-Vent are still justifiably renowned for their sturdy constitutions and ability to age over decades with grace. When given a little age, Moulin-a-Vent turns into something with a lot of the nuance and complexity of its Pinot based cousins to the north, but in their youth (ie after 2-3 years) the wines show bountiful charm and a depth that’s hard to replicate.
Classic Producers:
A Burgundy producer with structured ageworthy wines. Luckily this has some age on it!
Thibault Liger-Belair Moulin-a-Vent La Roche, Beaujolais 2010 750ML ($44.95) $33 special
Stephen Tanzer 92 points “Deep, bright ruby. Candied red and dark berries on the nose, with notes of violet and star anise adding complexity. Juicy and gently sweet, offering plush black raspberry and bitter cherry flavors and a broad, velvety texture. A weighty but energetic Beaujolais that finishes with intense spiciness and a lingering note of floral pastilles.”ST
Pierre-Marie Chermette Domaine du Vissoux Moulin-a-Vent Les Trois Roches, Beaujolais 2016 750ML ($29.95) $26 special
William Kelley-Wine Advocate 94 points “The 2016 Moulin à Vent Les Trois Roches is extremely elegant this year, opening in the glass with a pretty nose of cherries, pomegranate and sweet spices. On the palate, it’s medium to full-bodied, supple and perfectly balanced, with considerable understated amplitude, melting tannins and tangy underlying acids. Right now, it isn’t the most demonstrative of Chermette’s cuvées, but those who’ve experienced his reliably superb wines will recognize in its unerring harmoniousness a benchmark rendition of this cuvée. Cellar it for 2 or 3 years and watch it unfurl.”
Nick Stock – JamesSuckling.com 94 points “Very attractive spiced strawberry and wild cherry aromas here. Pristine, fresh rose perfume, too. The palate has impressive cut and vibrant, ripe strawberry flavors, which hold in a tangy, juicy style. Drink now.”
Names to Watch:
We remain impressed by every wine we try from Hirsch. This MaV is stunning value.
Celine et Nicolas Hirsch Moulin-a-Vent, Beaujolais 2016 750ML ($27.95) $21.90 special
VinopolNote: The Hirschs are some of the best under-the-radar producers in Beaujolais. The style is fresh, complex and delicious, with enough structure to reward short term cellaring. All their wines show off old vines and are very true to the various terroirs.
Pacalet is a Natural Wine legend and his wines are expensive for a reason.
Philippe Pacalet Moulin-a-Vent, Beaujolais 2015 750ML ($69.95) $59 special
Burghound 92 points “A distinctly earthy and peppery nose combines ripe purple fruit and black cherry aromas. There is excellent volume and richness to the concentrated middle weight flavors that possess first-rate complexity on the firmly structured and impressively persistent finish. This fine effort is built-to-age and will certainly need at least a few years first.”
Powerful, a bit blocky but it will age very well.
Domaine Richard Rottiers Moulin-a-Vent, Beaujolais 2014 750ML ($24.95) $16.60 special
Wine Enthusiast 93 points “Produced from vines up to 80 years old, this is a powerful, wood-aged wine. Tannins are mixed with toast, spice and dark plum flavors. Acidity gives freshness and finishes the wine with very fine fruits as well as structure. Age this impressive wine and drink from 2018.”
Josh Raynolds-Vinous 92 points “Brilliant violet. Smoke-accented blackberry and cherry scents are complicated by suggestions of vanilla, violet and licorice. Sweet and seamless in texture, offering intense dark berry and floral pastille flavors that tighten up and become spicier with air. Weighty yet lithe, delivering a solid finishing punch of sappy dark fruit, smooth tannins and excellent persistence. This substantial yet energetic wine has the stuffing as well as the balance to age.”
Regnie
Regnie is a cru with the hottest reputation right now. A decade or so, you’d be hard pressed to name five producers in the village or what distinguished the wines, but it’s become a hotbed of the next generation of top Beaujolais producers. It wasn’t elevated to cru status until 1988, but Charly Thevenet, Nicolas Chemarin and others have turned it into a top cru, combining the suppleness of Brouilly (its neighbor) with the fruit tones and floral notes of Fleurie. A top source for value in Beaujolais.
Classic Producers:
The sleeper wine in the Kermit Lynch portfolio.
Guy Breton Regnie, Beaujolais 2015 750ML ($31.95) $26 special
Josh Raynolds–Vinous 92 points “Full ruby. Spice-tinged dark berries and a hint of violet on the fragrant nose. Supple and seamless in texture, offering pliant blackberry and cherry compote flavors that show impressive depth and power as well as vivacity. Closes velvety and broad, with gentle tannic grip, resonating florality and excellent persistence.”
Nicolas Chemarin Regnie Les Haute Ronze, Beaujolais 2014 750ML ($21.95) $18 special
Josh Raynolds–Vinous 92 points “Vivid ruby-red. Sexy, mineral-laced aromas of ripe red and dark berries, violet and licorice. Sappy and penetrating, offering bitter cherry and black raspberry flavors that become sweeter as the wine opens up. Concentrated yet lithe, delivering excellent finishing clarity and strong, mineral-driven persistence.”
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
Brouilly and Cote de Brouilly
While Brouilly and its neighbor, the Cote de Brouilly share a significant portion of their name, the wines tend to be quite different. The Cote is an ancient (very extinct) volcano, with the steep slopes and hard volcanic soil that lends the wine a character not dissimilar from Moulin-a-Vent. Wines from the Cote de Brouilly tend to have a bit less weight, though, and that translates into examples that are beautiful and delicious young but can carry into middle age with ease
The wines from Brouilly proper are usually softer, fruitier and more accessible early. They tend towards roundness—softer than Fleurie, but also with more body and fruit. There are a few spots here and there with shallower soils (and the wines tend to be more like the CdB) but generally these are wines that are perfect for drinking young with heavier bistro dishes.
Classic Producers:
Daniel Bouland Cote de Brouilly Cuvee Melanie, Beaujolais 2016 750ML ($29.95) $24 special
Josh Raynolds 93 points “Lurid violet. A suave, mineral-accented bouquet evokes fresh red/blue fruits and potpourri, and a spicy element adds urgency. Bright, focused and appealingly sweet, offering concentrated yet lithe raspberry and boysenberry flavors that deepen with aeration. Distinctly graceful in style, finishing gently tannic and impressively long and leaving a sexy lavender pastille note behind.”
Joseph Drouhin Domaine des Hospices de Belleville Brouilly, Beaujolais 2015 750ML ($27.95) $21.90 special
Case-12 Joseph Drouhin Domaine des Hospices de Belleville Brouilly, Beaujolais 2015 750ML ($299.95) $239 special (that’s only $19.92/bottle!)
James Suckling 93 points “Lots of spices and granite with crushed berries and citrus. Medium to full body, a solid core of black fruit and real intensity. Real Brouilly. Drink now.”
Josh Raynolds 91 points “Deep lurid red. Fresh, mineral-accented red berry and cherry scents; deeper licorice and black cardamom nuances emerge with aeration. Juicy, focused and nicely concentrated, offering bitter cherry and red currant flavors that take a sweeter turn on the back half. Lingers with strong, spicy persistence on the finish, which is framed by dusty, building tannins.”
Case-12 Chateau Thivin Cote de Brouilly, Beaujolais 2017 750ML ($359.95) $299 pre-arrival special (that’s only $24.92/bottle!) —Arriving ETA October
Chateau Thivin Cote de Brouilly, Beaujolais 2017 1.5L ($69.95) $59 pre-arrival special—Arriving ETA October
Chateau Thivin Cote de Brouilly, Beaujolais 2017 3L ($199.95) $159 pre-arrival special—Arriving ETA OctoberWalks the line between Brouilly and the Cote. Impressive indeed for the price.
Pierre-Marie Chermette Domaine du Vissoux Brouilly Pierreux, Beaujolais 2016 750ML ($29.95) $26 special
Case-12 Pierre-Marie Chermette Domaine du Vissoux Brouilly Pierreux, Beaujolais 2016 750ML ($339.95) $279 special (that’s only $23.25/bottle!)
Nick Stock – JamesSuckling.com 93 points “Intense and attractive freshness with aromas of red flowers, strawberries and raspberries, all leading to a palate with a steely edge. Super fresh, light and tangy. Drink now.”
Josh Raynolds 92 points “Lurid ruby. Bright and sharply focused on the nose, displaying intense red fruit and floral scents and a smoky mineral overtone that builds with air. Appealingly sweet and lively on the palate, offering intense raspberry and cherry liqueur flavors that deepen on the back half while maintaining energy. The floral quality comes back strong on an energetic, silky finish that leaves a juicy red berry note behind.”
Names to Watch:
Jean-Louis Dutraive (Domaine de la Grand’Cour) Brouilly Vieilles Vignes, Beaujolais 2015 750ML ($49.95) $39 special
Josh Raynolds 92 points “Lurid ruby. Powerful aromas of ripe red berries, blood orange, succulent herbs and lavender take on a smoky mineral nuance as the wine opens up. Plump and broad on the palate, offering sweet, mineral-tinged black raspberry and cherry flavors and a hint of spicecake. Shows excellent clarity and solid punch on the dark-berry-dominated finish, which is framed by supple, harmonious tannins.”
Domaine Jean-Claude Lapalu Brouilly Alma Mater, Beaujolais 2015 750ML ($69.95) $59 special
Wine Advocate 90-92 points “The 2015 Brouilly Alma Mater was tightly wound on the nose when I tasted it from vat, but clearly very pure with succulent dark cherries, redcurrant, violet and a touch of tinned prune. The palate is very well balanced with supple tannin, very gourmand in style, somehow texturally reminding me of say, Tertre-Rôteboeuf on the Right Bank! Long. It manages to contain the alcohol extremely well and delivers a very composed finish and as such, I expect it will settle towards the top of my banded score.”
Domaine Jean-Claude Lapalu Brouilly Cuvee des Fous, Beaujolais 2015 750ML ($41.95) $36 special
Wine Advocate 92-94 points “The 2015 Brouilly Cuvée des Fous had been racked the day before my visit to the domaine and I tasted this directly from vat. It has an intense dark cherry, cassis and iodine-scented bouquet with gorgeous raspberry ripple scents lurking just underneath. The palate is very well balanced with fine, very lithe tannin. The acidity here is perfectly judged, as it sashays towards a composed and very pure and long finish. Wow – this is going to turn into one sensual and compelling Beaujolais.”
So these three get lumped together because of scarcity—unless you’re in the region, it can be hard to track down bottles from any of these villages. We only carry a few bottlings from the trio, but in brief, here’s what you’re looking at (from north to south).
Saint Amour is exactly what you think it will be—pretty fresh, delicate and easy to drink too much of. The wines here are delightful, with a lot of charm but not a ton of stuffing. If you’re looking for a red wine to go with fish, this is a great choice.
Charming, delicious, inexpensive.
Lebeaupin “Clos De La Brosse “Saint Amour, Beaujolais 2016 750ML ($21.95) $18 special
Josh Raynolds 91 points “Bright violet. Aromas of fresh dark berries, candied flowers and smoky minerals take on a hint of game as the wine opens up. Sweet and pliant in the mouth, offering juicy boysenberry and cherry flavors that put on weight with air. Finishes sappy and smooth, displaying very good persistence, a repeating gamy note and fine-grained tannins that sneak in slowly. Here’s a Beaujolais that shows a slightly wild streak, in a good way.”
Julienas produces wines that have the palate weight of a Fleurie but have darker fruit, a firmer structure and a bit more earthiness. These are excellent, if rare wines that offer a bit of Morgon-personality without the Morgon price tags. A great source for up and coming producers.
We love Julienas and we love Hirsch. A great combo.
Celine et Nicolas Hirsch Julienas, Beaujolais 2017 750ML ($24.95) $18 special
VinopolNote: The Hirschs are some of the best under-the-radar producers in Beaujolais. The style is fresh, complex and delicious, with enough structure to reward short term cellaring. All their wines show off old vines and are very true to the various terroirs.
Domaine Chignard Julienas Beauvernay, Beaujolais 2016 750ML ($24.95) $21.90 special
Josh Raynolds 93 points “Bright violet. Potent, mineral-accented dark berry, licorice candy and floral aromas are complemented by a hint of allspice. Fleshy and appealingly sweet, offering concentrated black raspberry and violet pastille flavors underscored by an enlivening mineral nuance. Shows excellent clarity and lift on an impressively long, floral-dominated finish framed by smooth, harmonious tannins.”
Nick Stock– Jamessuckling.com 93 points “A very attractive floral rose with aromas of strawberries and blood oranges, as well as an array of fragrant spices. A really spectacular nose. The palate has a super lithe and elegant feel with really powerful, long and fresh fruits. Strawberry pips and a pomegranate tang at the finish. Drink now.”
Chenas is perhaps the hardest cru to find in the US, but when you do it’s worth the effort. This is like it’s neighbor, Moulin-a-Vent, but with much lower price tags and a slightly earlier drinking window. Like Julienas and Regnie, the land costs here have allowed a number of young growers to start operations and it looks to be a village on the rise.
At this price, buy a half dozen.
Celine et Nicolas Hirsch Chenas, Beaujolais 2017 750ML ($19.95) $16 special
Celine et Nicolas Hirsch Chenas Les Brureaux, Beaujolais 2016 750ML ($29.95) $24 special
VinopolNote: The Hirschs are some of the best under-the-radar producers in Beaujolais. The style is fresh, complex and delicious, with enough structure to reward short term cellaring. All their wines show off old vines and are very true to the various terroirs.
This is the only listing in the USA today!
Bereche et Fils Reflet d’Antan Brut, Champagne NV 1.5L ($299.95) Was $219, Now $199 September Clearance Price, 10 magnums in stock now
Antonio Galloni 93 points “The flagship NV (2012) Reflet d’Antan is quite rich and intense, yet it also maintains striking translucence. Dried flowers, herbs and spices add aromatic nuance throughout, but, as is often the case, Reflet d’Antan is a wine of texture and feel above all else. Dosage is 6 grams per liter. Disgorged December 2016.”Steely lean and vivid, a pure bolt of Alpine freshness
Domaine Jean Masson & Fils Savoie Apremont Coeur d’Apremont Vieilles Vignes 2016 750ML ($49.95) Was $39, Now $36 September Clearance Price, 36 bottles in stock now
Importer note: Shows a deep minerality and super long finish.
Winery note “Our flagship wine, the cuvee Coeur d’Apremont is sourced from the same plots every year, selected with the greatest care by Jean-Claude Masson. The grass cover-cropping and the age to the vines (80 years on average) result in tiny yields. Thus, when the fruit is picked at optimum maturity, it highly expresses all its aromatic potential. The result, after a long fermentation on fine lees, is a powerful wine of purity, characterized by notes of exceptional candied fruit: apricot, fig and peach.”
Weingut Jos. Christoffel Jr. Christoffel-Prum Erdener Pralat Riesling Auslese***, Mosel 2014 750ML ($59.95) Was $33, Now $29 September Clearance Price
VinopolNote: Erderner Prälat occupies a mere 2.2 hectares. Entirely south-facing, the vineyard is surrounded by cliffs which insulate the vines – as a result, Prälat is one of the warmest plots in the region. Over time, it has also become one of the most sought-after vineyards. Given the limited space, only a few winemakers have access to the vineyard.
Just see the list below or click here to see the entire list on our website.
