New to the April Sale : Vieux Telegraphe
Top of the Class: Regional Stars Arriving this Week
Yves Cuilleron: White Rhones with Burgundian Elegance
Almaviva’s Perfect (100pt) Chilean Wine
Mee Godard and the Beauty of 2014 Beaujolais
Wines on our Radar: Hot Wines Arriving this Spring
New Arrivals from Fevre—Modern Classic Chablis
2016 Molitor: Behold Excellence
Vieux Telegraphe, Nouveau Pricing
Added Today to the April Sale
Vieux Telegraphe is one of the top three or four estates in the Southern Rhone, producing both red and white wines of complexity, longevity and power. The 2015 red and 2016 white are some of the best wines the estate has made in their respective categories and we’ve dropped the price on them for the rest of this month. We know there are a lot of fans of the estate out there (including us), so act now, while the price is even better. Just click here to see Vieux Telegraphe and all of the other wines on the April sale.
Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf du Pape La Crau 2015 ($89.95) was $69, now $59
Wine Spectator 95 points “This has a lovely, perfumy mix of savory, mint, tobacco, blood orange, cherry and bergamot notes, with finely beaded acidity and silky but ample structure. Long, mineral- and shiso leaf-infused finish. Best from 2020 through 2035.”JM
James Suckling 96 points “A wine with playful, attractive character. An array of red, blue and purple fruits. Gently spicy, chalky and fragrant, it has a very supple, fleshy and layered palate with a web of fine, smooth and supple tannins. Extremely elegant and composed. A long draw on the finish. Great depth and drive. This will live super long. Try after 2020.”
Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate 94 points “The flagship wine, the 2015 Chateauneuf du Pape, is a blend of 60% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre, 15% Syrah and 5% other permitted varieties. It features delicate floral scents and ample cherry and licorice aromas. Somehow, it manages to be full-bodied and almost creamy in texture but without much weight, then it ends powerfully, with a flourish of rich Mexican chocolate on the long, silky finish. It should drink well for up to 20 years.”
Wine Spectator 95 points “Ripe and rich, but focused, with verbena, bitter almond and wet stone notes threading through the core of creamed yellow apple, pear and melon flavors. Very long, with a gorgeous salted butter echo. Drink now through 2020.”JM
Jeb Dunnuck 95+ points “Slightly fresher than the La Roquete release (I always taste this cuvee after the la Roquete which is also made by the Brunier family), the 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc gives up lots of lemon and grapefruit characteristics as well as a terrific, salty minerality that makes you salivate. Medium to full-bodied, tight, fresh and clean, it needs 2-3 years of bottle age and will singe for 2 decades or more. As with the 2015, it’s a candidate for the finest white made at this estate.
Domaine Huet Vouvray ‘Clos du Bourg’ Moelleux, Loire 2016 750ML ($69.95) Was $59, Now $49
Wine Spectator 97 points “A stunner, with beautiful pear, green fig, yellow apple and quince notes that are creamy and flirtatiously sweet, yet seamless and refined in feel. The extremely long finish lets honeysuckle and verbena notes dance throughout, with a light echo of white ginger at the very end. Best from 2020 through 2040.”
Domaine Huet Vouvray ‘Le Haut Lieu’ Moelleux, Loire 2016 750ML ($59.95) Was $46, Now $39
Wine Spectator 95 points “Gorgeous crystallized ginger, dried quince, glazed pear and warm persimmon notes are seamlessly interwoven here, gliding through a lengthy finish that picks up a lilting green tea accent. Frankly off-dry but wonderfully pure. Drink now through 2035.”
Just click here to view the full list on our website.
Top of Their Class
A Handful of Top Wines in their Regions
Arrive Friday
Whether we’re talking Santa Cruz Mountains Cabernet, Cru Beaujolais or Eola-Amity Hills Pinot Noir, we’ve got a great set of wines arriving this Friday. Mount Eden makes some of the best Cab in California, rivaling Monte Bello at half the cost, while Lapierre’s “Camile” bottling has emerged as one of the top bottles in Beaujolais. Round that out with DDO’s Zephrine and a back vintage bottle from Chateau du Chorey and you have a foursome that’s
Arriving Friday, April 6th
Mount Eden Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Santa Cruz Mountains 2013 750ML ($79.95) $69 pre-arrival special
Antonio Galloni 94+ points “The 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon is wine of real pedigree and class that is going to need at least a handful of years to enter the prime of its drinking window. Blackberry jam, grilled herbs, smoke and plum all resonate on the palate. Inky, deep and plush, the 2013 remains quite primary. I will not be surprised at all if the 2013 develops into an even better wine with time. That said, the 2013 is positively striking today, with compelling inner sweetness, tons of perfume and exceptional balance.”
Domaine Marcel Lapierre Morgon Roche du Py ‘Cuvee Camille’, Beaujolais 2016 750ML ($44.95) $38 pre-arrival special
Domaine Marcel Lapierre Morgon Roche du Py ‘Cuvee Camille’, Beaujolais 2016 1.5L ($89.95) $79 pre-arrival special
Josh Raynolds 94 points “Brilliant ruby-red. A highly perfumed bouquet evokes fresh red fruits, Asian spices and minerals, along with an exotic touch of incense in the background. In a distinctly elegant style, offering appealingly sweet raspberry, lavender pastille and spicecake flavors that show very good depth as well as finesse. A spine of juicy acidity adds support and cut to an impressively long, floral-driven finish that’s shaped by silky, harmonious tannins.”
Domaine Drouhin RoseRock Zephirine Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills 2015 750ML ($59.95) $51.90 pre-arrival special
James Suckling 98 points “Incredible aromas of chamomile, hibiscus, fruit tea, lavender, dried strawberries, cherries, lemons and light white chocolate. Medium-bodied but with crazily formed tannins that are like velvety strings and are surrounded by vivacious acidity. A phenomenal, awe-inspiring finish. An indisputably unique wine. Drink from 2020.”
Germain Domaine du Chateau de Chorey Les Vignes Franches Vieilles Vignes, Beaune Premier Cru 2002 750ML ($79.95) $59 pre-arrival special
Burghound 89-92 points “Very ripe and expressive black cherry-infused aromas blend into linear, beautifully textured and detailed flavors underpinned by very firm but ripe tannins. Despite the structure, this is quite elegant, indeed feminine in style with gorgeous balance. A stellar effort.”
The Magical Yves Cuilleron
White Rhones With the Elegance of Burgundy
Yves Cuilleron is a remarkable winemaker for many reasons. First is the sheer quality of his wines—they’re in the top tier of the Northern Rhone and combine an effortless classicism with an approachable personality. The second is the breadth of that quality—it’s hard to think of another winemaker whose wines are as good who makes wine from more than one or two AOC’s. Put that together and you have a one-man class on the terroir of the Northern Rhone.While he’s best known for his Condrieu and Cote Rotie, he also makes a stunning set of wines from St. Joseph and St. Peray, as well as Cornas and Crozes-Hermitage. Unlike a large negociant, he owns his vines, most of them old massale selections that his family assembled through the three generations since the domaine was founded.
While he’s gained notoriety for his red wines, we think that he may be the best producer of elegant whites in the Northern Rhone, across a variety of appellations. His whites, from both Marsanne and Viognier (depending on the appellation) are less oaked and showy than the wines from Guigal or Chapoutier, for example, and show extremely precise flavors that work brilliantly at the table. This is a hard feat to pull off-they remind us of white Burgundy filtered through a Northern Rhone lens. We have as many of them in stock as we can, but unfortunately are limited by our allocations to just a few cases of each wine. To see a full list, just click here and view them all on our website.
Cave Yves Cuilleron Saint-Joseph Lieu-Dit Digue, Rhone 2016 750ML ($49.95) $39 special
Grapelive 95 points “…. As a long time follower and fan of Cuilleron, I was thrilled with his latest set of wines, from his generic varietal bottlings, …. This rare 100% Roussanne Saint-Joseph Blanc Lieu-Dit Digue was my personal favorite, Cuilleron ferments his AOC whites with native yeasts and in wood with long lees elevage (aging in barrel) and malos in small barrels with Burgundy like care and batonage (aged Sur Lie with lees stirring), this especially shows in the heavenly mouth feel and beautiful class in the glass, it’s a fresh and vibrant wine, but with impressive depth and density, it is great alternative to the money pricy Hermitage Blanc, it really is exceptional and ultra quality for the money. The Yves Cuilleron Digue starts with faint delicate white flowers, yeasty notes, wet stone and white orchard fruits on the nose before opening up on the full bodied palate to gorgeous apricot, peach and exotic tropical fruits, which are not overt or sweetly expressed, but lifting and seductive in their subtlety along with hints of fennel, clove and creamy melon and citrus sorbet, a touch of classic oily charm and saline with a background of liquid rock and flinty mineral tones, this an absolutely brilliant wine.…”
Cave Yves Cuilleron Condrieu Lieu-Dit Vernon, Rhone 2015 750ML ($119.95) $89 special
Josh Raynolds 94 points “(40 percent new oak) Light bright gold. Expansive orange, honeydew melon and violet aromas show outstanding clarity and minerally lift. Silky and taut on entry, then fleshier in the midpalate, offering vivid citrus and pit fruit and ginger flavors complemented by subtle anise and vanilla qualities. Finishes with strong mineral cut and excellent focus, leaving a suave floral note behind. Through the 2014 vintage this wine was known as “Vertige.””
James Suckling 94 points “This is super ripe with bold yellow peach and poached apricot custard. Super concentrated and extremely rich. The palate carries a fresh saltiness with big fruit presence. Orange and almond to close. Drink now.”
Importer (Neal Rosenthal) Note “The vineyards of Viognier are planted on terraces with a south-southeast exposure in the commune of Chavanay. The wine is barrel-fermented and barrel-aged; the elevage is nine months with regular batonnage occurring.”
Cave Yves Cuilleron Condrieu Les Chaillets, Rhone 2014 750ML ($79.95) $66 special
Josh Raynolds–Vinous 94 points “(aged in oak, 33% of it new): Pale gold. Penetrating aromas of fresh citrus and orchard fruits and violet are joined by hints of chalky minerals, fennel and ginger. Juicy and deeply concentrated on the palate, offering pear nectar and Meyer lemon flavors that show superb clarity and drive. The mineral and floral notes come back strong on the incisive finish, which hangs on with outstanding focus and tenacity.”
Importer (Neal Rosenthal) Note “The vineyards for this wine are situated in the village of Chavanay with an east-southeast exposure. The soil is a mix of sand and granite. Both Marsanne and Roussanne are in this blend. The wine is barrel-fermented and barrel-aged; the elevage is nine months.”
Importer (Neal Rosenthal) Note ““Biousse” is on a hillside lieu-dit just south of the village itself where the soil is made up of Pliocene red clays and granite scree. The wine is 100% Marsanne, aged in a higher proportion of small barrels than “Potiers”; elevage is approximately nine months on the lees without racking , but with regular batonage before bottling.”
Importer (Neal Rosenthal) Note “This cuvée is sourced from the best exposed and the oldest Viognier vines of the domaine (south-southeast exposure, planted on terraces in the commune of Chavanay). Barrel-fermented and barrel-aged with regular batonnage during the nine-month elevage.”
Importer (Neal Rosenthal) Note “The limestone-dominated terroir of Saint-Peray lends its wines a different character from those of Saint-Joseph: more finely mineral, more floral, and less viscous. “Potiers” is a blend of equal parts Marsanne and Roussanne planted in the poor alluvial soils typical of the appellation, fermented and aged in a combination of foudres and smaller barrels. A rich, luscious nose of hazelnut cream and honeysuckle gives way to a round, intensely spicy palate that carries its alcohol deftly and finishes long and fresh.”
Almaviva
The Perfect Chilean Wine
This Franco-Chliean project continues to impress since its inception in 1998. The collaboration celebrates the elegance and winemaking skill of the Rothschilds and the Chilean thumbprint that only the most singular terroir could provide. This is a truly harmonious wine that will belong in your cellar for a very long time. This wine, with its 100 point score, will be a touchstone for collectors for a long time.
Vina Almaviva, Puente Alto 2015 750ML ($149.95) $119 special, 26 bottles in stock now
James Suckling 100 points “A glorious and complex nose of tobacco, blackberries and hints of stones and flowers. Hints of bitter chocolate. Full-bodied, very tight and compacted. Linear backbone gives this form and tension. It has the same character on the palate as well as cayenne and other spice. Loved the 2014 but this shows more fine-grained tannins. So balanced and harmonious. A blend of 69% cabernet sauvignon, 24% carmenere, 5% cabernet franc and 2% petit verdot. Needs four or five years in bottle but a joy to taste now.”
And, while we are on the topic of perfect….
Arriving Friday:
Poderi Aldo Conterno Granbussia, Barolo Riserva DOCG 2008 750ML ($499.95) $389 pre-arrival special
James Suckling 100 points “Incredible aromas of blackberries, blueberries, dark chocolate and hints of cream. Roses, rose petals and leaves. Speechless. Full-bodied, tight and concentrated. The finish is endless. Perfect harmony. Made from a selection of the best grapes from the oldest vines: 70% romirasco, 15% cicala and 15% colonnello. All co-fermented and macerated for one month in wood. Aged in a 25-hectoliter cask for 33 months. Five years in bottle. Only 3,000 bottles. Perfect now and it will improve with age for decades ahead.”
Mee Godard
And the Beauty of 2014 Beaujolais
It seems like an odd time to get in some brand new 2014 Beaujolais, on the face of it. Both ’15 and ’16 are incredibly hyped years, with a lot of the new-releases from the latter. But 2014 is a classic Beaujolais vintage and drinking better at the moment than either of its newer cousins. Plus, Mee Godard’s wines demand aging, so this is a great time to begin drinking them.
Mee Godard started her domaine in 2013, after years working in cellars around Burgundy and Champagne and a degree from Oregon State. The most notable place she worked was with Lafon and that vin de garde style informs her approach to Gamay. They still have the bright freshness we expect from the grape and the terroir, but have the intensity and structure to age for a good while longer. She seems to be a consensus star on the rise and although the wines are more expensive than some, they’re a deal compared to the stalwarts of Morgon (and for the quality of the wines). We’re a little afraid these are going to go full Balagny with regards to pricing and availability, so they’re definitely wines to stock up on while you can.
In Stock Now from Domaine Mee Godard:
Domaine Mee Godard Morgon Cote de Py, Beaujolais 2014 750ML ($37.95) $29 special
Josh Raynolds-Vinous 93 points “Bright ruby-red. Heady, mineral-accented aromas of ripe cherry and red berries, with a peppery nuance adding vivacity. At once concentrated and lively, offering intense raspberry and bitter cherry flavors and a sneaky suggestion of spicecake. Picks up a sexy lavender pastille quality on the incisive, sharply focused finish, which hangs on with outstanding tenacity and building minerality.”
Domaine Mee Godard Morgon Corcelette, Beaujolais 2014 750ML ($34.95) $26 special
Josh Raynolds-Vinous 92 points “Vivid red. Fresh, mineral-tinged red berry and floral pastille scents pick up a smoky element with air. Pure and incisive, offering sappy raspberry and cherry flavors and a touch of lavender. Closes taut, stony and impressively long, with building sweetness and silky tannins lending grip.”
Other In-Stock Highlights from Beaujolais’ stellar 2014 vintage:
Domaine de la Chapelle des Bois Morgon ‘Les Rontay’, Beaujolais 2014 750ML ($21.95) $19 special
“Chantal and Eric Coudert-Appert, the proprietors of the Domaine de la Chapelle des Bois, represent the seventh generation of this family line to work the vineyards of this estate in the heart of Fleurie. The domaine comprises 8.4 hectares of vineyards, all of which are hand-harvested. This energetic couple follows the precepts of “lutte raisonnée” when working the vineyards, which is to say they use an organic approach, treating the vines only when absolutely necessary to produce a healthy, ripe crop. At Domaine de la Chapelle des Bois, the wines are vinified in a traditional manner using a “semi-carbonic” maceration. The cuvaison extends for 10 to 15 days depending on the specific cuvée. A grill placed on top of the cuve and then partially submerged is often utilized during the fermentation period to keep the solid matter in continuous contact with the fermenting juice; this process of extraction is supplemented by a twice-a-day “remontage” or pumping of the juice over the solids during the cuvaison.”-Importer note
“This cuvée of Fleurie is sourced from a single parcel planted to vines eighty years old. In contrast to the other wines of the domaine, this special selection is aged 12 months in large, older foudres to best express its formidable character. Surprisingly, this structured wine is supremely elegant and fine; and, it is surely capable of providing pleasure over an extended period of time.”–Importer note
Josh Raynolds–Vinous 93 points “Deep ruby. Mineral-accented cherry and blackberry aromas are underscored by a spicy element that gains strength as the wine opens up. Sappy and penetrating, offering sweet dark berry flavors with complicating suggestions of star anise and violet. The spice and floral qualities build steadily through an impressively long, sappy finish, which is framed by harmonious tannins that fold easily into the intense fruit.”
Hot Wines Arriving This Spring
J
ames Suckling 99 points “The wonderfully silky texture with an added juiciness is what makes this wine so very special. The flawless and seamless nature to the wine is so impressive that it takes your breath away. Plenty of beautiful fruit but what mouthfeel. Drink now and forever.”Decanter 96 points “Only made in the best vintages, and they don’t get any better than 2010, this is a brooding, ageworthy blend of mostly Tempranillo with 20% Garnacha and 10% Mazuelo. It’s rich, dark and complex with stylish tannins and scented oak.”
Bodegas Muga Reserva, Rioja DOCa 2013 750ML ($27.95) $21.90 pre-arrival special
Case-12 Bodegas Muga Reserva, Rioja DOCa 2013 750ML ($299.95) $219 pre-arrival special (that’s only $18.25/bottle!)
James Suckling 92 points “This is an excellent 2013 with such purity and finesse. Cherry, stone and light cedar aromas follow through to a full body, very fine tannins and a fresh and clean finish. Hints of cedar. It shows a focused energy. Drink now.”
Arriving in June:
Casanova di Neri Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Tuscany 2013 750ML ($69.95) $59 pre-arrival special
Monica Larner – Wine Advocate 93+ points “It’s that time of year: get your Neri on. This blockbuster Montalcino estate has released another fantastic collection of new wines, including the 2013 Brunello di Montalcino. Beautifully executed, the wine oozes forth from the glass with round, supple and velvety fruit. This Brunello Annata is luscious and deep, with millefoglie aromatic layering that peels back slowly and carefully. The mouthfeel is less elaborate compared to the estate’s top expressions, but the bouquet does much to push this score into the low nineties. Some 80,000 bottles were produced.”
James Suckling 93 points “This is a typical 2013 with a sweetness of fruit and plums. Citrus undertones. Medium to full body, ultra-fine tannins and a lively finish. Drink or hold.”
Arriving ETA Fall:
Casanova di Neri Tenuta Nuova, Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2013 750ML ($134.95) $99 pre-arrival special
James Suckling 98 points “This is a red that has such depth on the nose with red fruits, mushroom, rose petal and bark. Extremely complex. Full body, powerful and layered. Superb length. Exceptional wine. So much energy. Better in 2022.”
Modern Classics
The Domaine William Fevre was born of a force of will in 1959, when William declared his first vintage; this, in a region where winemaking families stretch for centuries, not just decades. The purchase of land seemed to be first and foremost in their mission, acquiring a whopping 78 hectares over 90 separate parcels. The access to this much fruit, in one of the priciest AOC in France, gives Fevre a leg up in making some of the most iconic Chablis available today.
The wines, from Petit Chablis up to Grand Cru, are marked by their chalky, smoky intensity. A character branded into the vineyards by Kimmeridgian soil, clay and sea floor sediment; a strata that reaches from Chablis, through Champagne and out to the Loire. The acidity is preserved by a growing zone at the edge of being too cool, yet this has been challenged with warmer vintages creeping in more recently. How does a winery who rests their very brand upon a hallmark style change with the climate? Diversify and reinvent Chablis, bien sur. Play with ripeness and judiciously incorporate more oak regime into the mix, but make certain that the heart of Chablis is preserved. Some purists cry foul; Fevre just keeps on their course. To see and buy all of these wines on our website, just click here for a full list.
Fevre arriving ETA July:
Domaine William Fevre Chablis Grand Cru Bougros Cotes de Bouguerots 1.5L 2014, ($279.95) $249 pre-arrival special
Burghound 96 points “Once again, based on the nose alone, this could be nothing else but Chablis with its mélange of tidal pool, mineral reduction, citrus blossom and discreet spice nuances. There is fantastic detail to the focused, mineral-driven and powerful middle weight plus flavors that do a slow build from the mid-palate all the way back to the explosively long, balanced and bone dry finish. This appears to be drawn directly from liquid Kimmeridgian and should also amply reward longer-term cellaring. In a word, brilliant.”
Stephen Tanzer 93-95 points “Very pale yellow with a faint green tinge. Lime zest, white flowers and white pepper on the bright, high-pitched nose. Sappy, ripe and substantial, showing sexy sweetness of fruit in a technically very dry wine. Superb acidity and energy here, but not as tightly wound as the Preuses. The full south exposure of the vines gives this wine its amplitude and generosity. As with the regular Bougros, this large-scaled, long wine is not at all hard or austere.”
Domaine William Fevre Chablis Grand Cru Preuses Grand 2015 1.5L ($249.95) $219 pre-arrival special
Stephen Tanzer 94 points “Pale, bright yellow. More feminine on the nose than the Valmur, offering aromas of citrus fruits, pear and white flowers plus a soupçon of oak spice. Very silky, seamless and refined but also shows terrific intensity and floral lift. Harmonious acidity leavens the density of this wine, giving it an almost weightless impression in the mouth. Perfectly integrated and balanced from the start. The impressively long, rising finish features piquant notes of citrus peel, minerals and flowers. I’d give this fine-grained beauty a good five years in the cellar before pulling the cork.”
Burghound 93 points “Once again there is a subtle but not invisible application of wood setting off the more elegant aromas of green fruit, almond, citrus, floral, spice and quinine. The super-intense, delineated and vibrant middle weight plus flavors possess both good richness but also the hallmark refinement of a fine Preuses, all wrapped in a more complex and sneaky long finish. Lovely.”
Domaine William Fevre Chablis Bougros Grand Cru 2016, ($119.95) $89 pre-arrival special
Stephen Tanzer 92-94 points “(50% fermented in oak; from a yield of 35 hectoliters per hectare): Pale green-tinged yellow. Wonderfully expressive, pungent, classic Kimmeridgian nose offers scents of lime, grilled almond and iodiney minerality. Round, plush and seamless on the palate, with its juicy citrus fruit and ginger flavors lifted by minerality. This silky, sedate, rich wine has no corners and seems almost too easy and expressive today for grand cru. But it also has the stuffing and balance to age, and a finishing element of brown spices provides lift.”
Domaine William Fevre Chablis Grand Cru Bougros Cotes de Bouguerots 2016 ($149.95) $128 pre-arrival special
Stephen Tanzer 93-95 points “Very pale green-tinged yellow. Classic Chablis scents and flavors of white peach, ginger, oyster shell, iodine and flint. Highly concentrated, tactile wine offering an impression of strong dry extract and a compelling combination of pliancy and energy. A very powerful, structured Chablis with a long, chewy, saline finish. Really saturates the palate without leaving any impression of weightiness. Offers splendid potential.”
Burghound 92-94 points “A super-fresh, cool and admirably pure nose exhibits notes of iodine, citrus, white rose petal, sea breeze and mineral reduction scents. Like several wines in the range I very much like the lovely texture of the energetic medium weight flavors that also possess fine concentration before terminating in an intensely saline-infused, balanced and wonderfully long finale.”
Domaine William Fevre Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 2016 ($179.95) $149 pre-arrival special
Stephen Tanzer 93-95 points (just 18 hectoliters per hectare produced owing to frost and mildew): Pale yellow. Lovely brisk citrus and apple aromas complicated by gingery spices, white pepper and iodiney minerality. Large-scaled, dense and quite powerful but not yet filled in, with its very concentrated peach and citrus flavors accented by ginger and white pepper. More glyceral in the early going than the Preuses but showing less personality today. This fruit was picked very ripe, with nearly 13% potential alcohol, according to Didier Séguier.
Burghound 92-95 points “An even more complex nose displays excellent Chablis typicity with its combination of citrus, white orchard fruit, sea breeze, mineral reduction and soft oyster shell nuances. The broad-shouldered flavors are rich and concentrated to the point of opulence while managing to retain reasonably good precision on the citrus and solidly dry finale that really fans out as it sits on the palate. This is one of the few 2016s that may need most of a decade to arrive at its peak. In a word, impressive”
Domaine William Fevre Chablis Grand Cru Preuses 2016 ($149.95) $128 pre-arrival special
Stephen Tanzer 93-95 points “(22 hectoliters per hectare): Pungent but reticent nose hints at pineapple, peach, ginger, menthol and subtle crushed-stone minerality. Rich, spicy and sweet, with its ripe orchard fruit flavors leavened by a floral topnote. Very subtle, elegant yet extract-rich wine with terrific dusty length and lift. Ultimately dry and classic, this wine reverberates on the palate for a minute or more. Vincent Dauvissat’s Preuses is frequently the finest and most complete example of this grand cru but the William Fèvre version is often my #2 choice.”
Burghound 92-94 points “A pungent nose consists of a potent mix of fennel, oak, menthol, mineral reduction and essence of pear. There is excellent density and power to the medium weight plus flavors that still manage to come across as quite refined thanks to hugely long, balanced and sappy finish. This classy effort needs a few years to develop more depth but the material is present for that to happen.”
Domaine William Fevre Chablis 1er Cru Montee de Tonnerre 2016 ($99.95) $79 pre-arrival special
Stephen Tanzer 92-94 points “(23 hectoliters per hectare): Pale, slightly cloudy yellow. Strong mineral notes of shrimp shell and sea breeze currently dominate citrus and white peach on the nose. Densely packed, concentrated and energetic; wonderfully fresh and balanced for the year. Clamps down impressively on the superb, sappy, slowly rising finish, leaving behind piquant notes of grapefruit, lemon zest and minerals. Classically dry, crystalline and taut but not austere. This beauty really spreads out to saturate the palate on the back end.”
There may be no more ambitious winemaker in the world than Marcus Molitor. His determination and drive to make the best possible wines has made him a towering figure in the Mosel, with an impressive, modern winery and holdings in almost every important vineyard in the region. This drive also means there are a lot of different bottlings—Molitor believes that every single sub-parcel and selective pick should be vinified to its utmost potential.
This is the essence of the brilliance of Marcus Molitor. Most winemakers would pick once or twice (or three times) in a vineyard and vinify many lots together—it’s easier and the wines are good. Molitor, though, asks what each parcel and pick would be like on its own—treated as if it were a wine of distinction rather than a blending component. This is a lot of extra work and requires time and space that most winemakers would rather not spend, but the result is a dizzying number of bottlings that all strive toward perfection.
The critical praise backs this up—Marcus Molitor’s wines are some of the most lauded in the world. Whether white capsule (dry), green capsule (off-dry), or gold capsule (fruity to nobly sweet), he manages to produce wines that captivate and astound. 2016 is among the best vintages he’s produced—possibly better across the board than the lauded 15’s. They arrive in September and last year most of the top wines sold out before they arrived. We expect the same this year so just click here to see a list of all the wines on the way.
Some Highlights,
Arriving ETA September:
Markus Molitor Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese*** Feinherb (Green Capsule), Mosel 2016 750ML ($119.95) $99 pre-arrival special
Wine Advocate 99 points “From over 100-year-old vines and fermented in an eight-year-old 2,000-liter Stockinger vat and 15% in small oak barrels, the 2016 Riesling Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Auslese *** (Green Capsule) offers a deep and concentrated, terribly fresh and oaky nose. Round and lush on the palate, this is a very elegant, intense and refined Sonnenuhr with super lush fruit, very fine tannins and ripe acidity. Molitor is extremely proud of all his Sonnenuhr bottlings, but they demand a much longer period of bottle aging. The richness (which is still elegant and fine) and the oak flavors (which are discreet but present) will surely integrate, so the wine has huge potential. Bottled in September 2017; tasted March 2018.”
Wine Advocate 98 points “The 2016 Riesling Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Auslese ** (White Capsule) is a different style of Mosel Riesling compared to the other 2016 Auslesen. Fermented in different oak vats, from barrique size to 3,000-liter vats (including one big Stockinger vat that was new), this is clear, ripe and complex on the nose, with toasty as well as smoky-mineral notes framing the perfectly ripe and elegant stone fruit aromas. Full-bodied, round and complex, with gorgeous sweetness and mind-blowing silkiness and balance, this is a rich yet fine, elegant, highly complex and persistent Auslese from Markus’s most important single vineyard. The 2016 is concentrated yet very clear and elegant, revealing very fine tannins and a very long, complex finish. It already drinks with great wonder, and this wine will even gain more complexity though it’s already hard to resist.”
Wine Advocate 99 points “The 2016 Riesling Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese *** (Golden Capsule) indicates gorgeously ripe and lush Riesling fruit with very fine flinty slate aromas that add freshness, finesse and complexity. This nose is incredibly pure and precise and doesn’t indicate any botrytis. The palate is highly elegant and fine but, at the same time, lush and salty with a highly delicate but persistent structure. The finish is mouthwatering and enormously stimulating. This Wehlener Sonnenuhr is another extremely digestible yet complex Auslese that you can drink in large amounts without getting bored or tired. The acidity is so delicate and fine here and lets this gold-capsuled Auslese dance over your palate. I just love it. Bottled September 2017; tasted March 2018.”
Wine Advocate 95+ points “The 2016 Riesling Ürziger Würzgarten Spätlese (White Capsule) offers a deep and complex yet delicate and discreetly flinty nose with a very fine, fresh and bright citrus and stony aroma. Full-bodied, intense and lush on the palate, this is a silky textured, highly elegant and superbly balanced Würzgarten with an intense and powerful, very mineral and salty finish. The wine reveals great complexity along with serious grip and tensioned length but keeps its great finesse. Fermented and aged in large oak barrels until the bottling in September 2017. Tasted March 2018.”
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