Matthieu Barret: The Insider’s Pick in Cornas
Sneak Peak: Vinous Reviews 2016 Beaujolais
The Many (Back Vintage) Grand Cru’s of Louis Jadot
Staff Pick: A Bit of Northern Rhone Magic
The Best Value in Italian Wine? Felsina’s Fontalloro + Rancia
Trending Wines from the Weekend
The March Clearance Sale: Eleven Days Left
Matthieu Barret
The Insider’s Pick in Cornas
Cornas is the hot appellation in the Rhone, possibly in all of France. It’s coveted for its unique blend of elegance, power and raw character, with the top wines as good as any Grand Cru Burgundy or Hermitage. Unfortunately, pricing for the top producers is skyrocketing, to the point where if you have to ask, then…
However, there are still wines which offer uncommon value that insiders are seeking out. Last week Portland hosted an “Advanced” Sommelier exam and so Somms from across the country were flying in to test their prowess (and many, of course, ended up in the shop). As a result, we sold a lot of the wines of Matthieu Barret, an awesome but under-the-radar producer in Cornas. Barret is one of those names that’s a go-to for those in the trade that love to drink great wines from the Northern Rhone but can’t afford Clape and Allemand on a regular basis.
If Barret is a new name to you, know that his Domaine du Coulet is one of the great producers of Cornas, threading the needle between classic and modern. He destems his Syrah for a more refined mouthfeel, but doesn’t use new wood and ages in large barrels. He farms old vineyards Biodynamically and keeps his yields down—in short he does everything that we’re looking for in Cornas and the wines are dynamite. The wines may be one tier bellow someone like Allemand, but his pricing is 3+ tiers down, which makes the wines very attractive buys. We have an assortment of the wines in stock now, but new vintages won’t arrive for a little while, so stock up now if you’re interested–just click here to see the full list of the Barret wines on our website
In Stock Now:
Matthieu Barret Domaine du Coulet Cornas Billes Noires, Rhone 2011 750ML ($99.95) $79 special
Matthieu Barret Domaine du Coulet Cornas Billes Noires, Rhone 2011 1.5L ($199.95) $159 special
Wine Advocate 95 points “Even better, the 2011 Cornas Billes Noires, which spends one year in old wood followed by one year in concrete tank, offers blockbuster levels of black raspberry, smoked earth, chocolate, licorice and crushed rock on the nose and palate. Medium to full-bodied, long, elegant and with laser-like focus, it nevertheless does not lack for fruit or texture, and has fine-grained tannin framing the finish beautifully. With a scant 600 cases to go around, there’s not much of it, but don’t miss a chance to grab a couple of bottles if you can. It too will drink well for 10-15 years.”
This is the lowest listed price for a magnum in the USA today!
Wine Advocate 96 points “Coming from the upper part of Cornas and seeing 24 months in 400-500 Liter barrels (none new), the 2012 Cornas Domaine du Coulet Billes Noires is an incredible effort that’s up with the crème de la crème of the vintage. Its inky purple color is followed by an awesome bouquet of cassis, bacon fat, olive, peppered meat and iron, with additional minerality coming through with air. Classic in every way, with full-bodied richness, stunning purity and integrated acidity, it’s a big, brooding and concentrated effort that’s reasonably approachable now due to its fruit and texture, yet won’t hit prime time until 6-7 years after the vintage and will have two decades of longevity.”
Matthieu Barret Domaine du Coulet Cornas Brise Cailloux, Rhone 2011 750ML ($69.95) $41.90 special
Wine Advocate 94 points “Starting out, the 2011 Cornas Brise Cailloux offers up textbook Cornas wildness with its gamy, herbal-styled bouquet delivering brilliant fruit (black cherry, raspberry, blueberry), loads of meatiness, spring flowers and searing minerality. Seeing 18 months all in old wood, this medium to full-bodied beauty has incredibly purity of fruit, great acidity and a knockout finish. Enjoy it over the coming 10-15 years.”
Matthieu Barret Domaine du Coulet Cornas Brise Cailloux, Rhone 2012 750ML ($69.95) $41.90 special
Wine Advocate 94 points “More elegant and streamlined than the meaty, concentrated Billes Noires, the 2012 Cornas Brise Cailloux has a beautiful perfume of peppery herbs, beef blood, crushed rock and sweet dark fruits. Rounded, rich and layered, with serious minerality as well, enjoy this medium to full-bodied, lengthy and beautifully put together Cornas over the coming decade.”
Matthieu Barret Domaine du Coulet Cornas Les Terrasses du Serre, Rhone 2009 750ML ($79.95) $59 special
Wine Advocate 95 points “While they didn’t present this cuvee in 2012, I sourced a bottle of 2009 Cornas les Terrasses du Serre locally to see a slightly older vintage. Classic Cornas, with chewy, meaty, bloody notes of black fruits, lavender, olive tapenade and violets, this beauty has everything you could want from a Syrah from these steep granite slopes. Full-bodied, concentrated and beautifully textured, with integrated acidity and plenty of tannin, drink it anytime over the coming decade or more.”
Sneak Peak!
Vinous Reviews 2016 Beaujolais
We’re really excited about the 2016 Beaujolais vintage and clearly Josh Raynolds, at Vinous, is as well. He’s got some strong praise for the vintage, calling it a “classic expression of the region, producing bright, energetic wines that show real charm and early appeal.” We’ll do a deep dive into his reviews in a few days, but wanted to offer a sneak peak now.
Domaine Marcel Lapierre Morgon, Beaujolais 2016 750ML ($34.95) $28 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Domaine Marcel Lapierre Morgon, Beaujolais 2016 1.5L ($69.95) $59 special, 9 magnums in stock now
Josh Raynolds-Vinous 93 points “Brilliant ruby-red. A highly perfumed bouquet evokes fresh red berries, cherry pit, smoky minerals and candied flowers. Offers sappy, sharply focused raspberry, bitter cherry and lavender flavors that show very good depth and pick up a hint of five-spice powder with air. Fine-grained tannins give shape to a very long, mineral-accented finish that shows excellent clarity and incisive cut. This bottling gets a sulfur addition and its back label has the letter “S” on the left-hand side.”
Chateau Thivin Cote de Brouilly, Beaujolais 2016 750ML ($39.95) $26 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Chateau Thivin Cote de Brouilly, Beaujolais 2016 3L ($189.95) $159 special
Josh Raynolds – Vinous 93 points “Light bright ruby. Intense, sharply focused aromas of raspberry liqueur, lavender and succulent herbs carry a zesty mineral overtone. Sweet and seamless on the palate, offering nervy red berry, blood orange and floral pastille flavors that are underscored by suggestions of licorice and allspice. At once powerful and elegant, finishing with excellent tension, persistence and harmonious tannins. The interplay of power and finesse here is quite impressive.”
Case-12 Pierre-Marie Chermette Domaine du Vissoux Moulin-a-Vent Les Trois Roches, Beaujolais 2016 750ML ($339.95) $279 special (that’s only $23.25/bottle!)
Josh Raynolds – Vinous 93 points “Brilliant magenta. Aromas of fresh cherry and blueberry are complemented by suggestions of violet, licorice and spicecake. Stains the palate with appealingly sweet, spice-accented dark fruit and floral pastille flavors that smoothly meld concentration and vivacity. Shows excellent clarity and mineral lift on the subtly tannic finish, which leaves notes of bitter cherry and five-spice powder behind.”
The Many Grand Crus of Louis Jadot
Louis Jadot is one of the most distinguished names in Burgundy, with holdings in almost every major vineyard and a tradition of excellent winemaking, most visible in their longtime director, Jacques Lardiere (now retired to their Oregon project but the overseer of most of the wines offered today).
We’re highlighting our stocks of Grand Cru wines from the venerable Maison, many of them with some bottle age and all perfect for a spot in your cellar. Given the way recent vintages have been priced, wines from 2009-12 seem live absolute steals now. Grand Cru wines are that plentiful, so stocks are limited to what we have on hand and are pretty small for each individual wines. If you want compelling, epic Burgundy, these are wines to grab and drink (and hold). Just click here to see the list of all of the wines from Louis Jadot in stock now, on our website.
Louis Jadot Montrachet Grand Cru, Cote de Beaune 2012 750ML ($599.95) $419 special, 8 bottles in stock now
Stephen Tanzer–Vinous 95 points “(13.9% natural alcohol, from vines on the Chassagne side): Bright, pale yellow. Knockout pure nose offers discreet notes of stone fruits, clove and iodiney minerality. At once powerful and vibrant in the mouth, offering great volume, depth and lift to its palate-staining spice and mineral flavors. The iodiney quality carries through to the very long, precise finish. Wonderfully juicy and energetic considering that it’s carrying a moderate four grams of acidity. This should evolve gracefully in bottle for a decade or more.”
Stephen Tanzer 95 points “Good full, medium red. Expressive, nuanced aromas of strawberry, raspberry, crushed stone, smoke and flowers. Glyceral yet light on its feet, with a suave, silky texture to its vibrant, savory red fruit, floral and mineral flavors. Not at all a superripe style: really perks up the palate and leaves the mouth refreshed on the very long, sweet/savory finish. This classy grand cru finishes with captivating perfumed lift.” ST
Louis Jadot Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru, Cote de Nuits 2011 750ML ($249.95) $219 special, 5 bottles in stock now
Stephen Tanzer 95 points “Bright, full medium red. Knockout nose shows an almost candied character to the aromas of strawberry, cherry, dark berries, lavender, menthol and Indian spices. Dense, suave and juicy, with a distinctly silky texture to the broad flavors of red fruits, menthol and spices. Utterly seamless, suave, classically dry Chapelle with outstanding energy and definition. Still tight today but the wine’s fine-grained tannins and superb breadth and length suggest that it will make a great bottle a decade hence.” ST
Louis Jadot Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, Cote de Nuits 2009 750ML ($219.95) $149 special, 3 bottles in stock now
Wine Advocate 92-95 points “The 2009 Clos de la Roche comes across as big, powerful and a touch heavy-handed. This shows tons of richness and depth but lacks the sheer excitement of the estate’s finest wines. The Clos de la Roche is made from purchased wine. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2034.”WA
Burghound 92 points “(from 90+ year old vines that are worked by horse). A ripe and notably somber but attractively spicy nose blends both red and blue berry fruit with earth nuances that can also be found on the rich, round, supple and refined medium-bodied flavors that possess moderately good, if not truly special, depth and length. However, like the Clos de Vougeot, it just feels as though there is more here than is presently being reflected and again, my score reflects this optimism that it will surface in time.”BH
Stephen Tanzer 92 points “Good medium red. Raspberry, redcurrant and strong spicy oak on the nose. Densely packed but a bit youthfully rough today, with raspberry and spicy oak flavors framed by sound acidity and substantial dusty tannins. Plenty of breadth and energy here but this grand cru will need at least a couple more years to harmonize in bottle.” ST
Wine Advocate 89-91 points “The 2012 Corton Clos de Roi Grand Cru has a straightforward, tightly knit bouquet with seaweed-tinged red berry fruit that lift nicely from the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with a succulent entry. There is plenty of fruit here that probably belies the structure on the finish. This is a ‘solid’, dependable Clos du Roi.” WA
Staff Pick
A Moment of Northern Rhone Magic
Categorically, I don’t usually go in for big full wines. But for me everything comes down to balance. I can very much enjoy strong flavors and over-the-top qualities so long as there is some balance, counterpoints, more notes in the chorus. Cuilleron’s Les Potiers opens with a mellow nose followed by a big rich palate, full and delightful mouth feel, hints of citrus and melon and a strong finish—here’s the key!—of limestone and acidity. The structure of this wine is perfect: as the buttery fullness of the body brings the mouth just to the edge of too-cloying, the acid comes right in, cleanses the palate and prepares you for another sensual sip. Monsieur Cuilleron clearly knows well how to produce full wines with elegance and even an eye towards some of us leaner drinkers; big without being a fruit bomb, this wine seduces more by texture than anything. I think there’s something here for many different kinds of drinkers to enjoy.
Cave Yves Cuilleron Saint-Peray Les Potiers, Rhone 2016 750ML ($37.95) $28 special
Importer (Neal Rosenthal) Note “The limestone-dominated terroir of Saint-Peray lends its wines a different character from those of Saint-Joseph: more finely mineral, more floral, and less viscous. “Potiers” is a blend of equal parts Marsanne and Roussanne planted in the poor alluvial soils typical of the appellation, fermented and aged in a combination of foudres and smaller barrels. A rich, luscious nose of hazelnut cream and honeysuckle gives way to a round, intensely spicy palate that carries its alcohol deftly and finishes long and fresh.”
The Best Value in Italian Wine?
Felsina Fontalloro and Rancia
We know that Tuscan wine is super popular, both from the requests we get and the sales we see here at the shop. While Brunello is still the undisputed star of the show, we think more people should be buying higher-end Chianti. Unlike Brunello, there seems to be a bit of an artificial price ceiling for Chianti and so the wines, no matter their quality, cost less than comparable examples from the other famous neighborhood in Tuscany.
The Fontalloro is the flagship wine for Felsina. Made from 100% Sangiovese (like a Brunello, yes), it’s generally considered to be the best wine that Felsina produces in any given vintage (with the exception of their new, hyper-rare Colonia bottling). Like Brunello, it’s powerful and ages beautifully. If you want richer, bolder Sangiovese, you’ve come to the right place. We’ve been lucky enough to acquire several vintages so that you can have your pick—the older stuff is drinking beautifully today and the young wines are some of the best the winery has made.
Felsina’s Rancia is another example of a great wine at a killer price—precicely because it’s Chianti. The wine is powerful, elegant and nuanced and wonderful at the table and we have some of the sharpest pricing in the country on the 2012 and 13—two vintages that display all of the qualities we love in the wines.
If you’d like to see all of the in-stock wines from Felsina, just click here to view a list on our website, or read below for a few highlights.
In-Stock Now:
Felsina Berardenga Fontalloro Toscana IGT, Tuscany 2013 750ML ($69.95) $49 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Wine Advocate 96 points “Gorgeous and soft, the 2013 Fontalloro is another landmark wine from this classic vintage. There is enormous intensity here and the wine is only at the beginning of its long aging trajectory. I suggest you put off drinking it for five to ten more years. There is evident thickness and generosity here, especially in the way those bold fruit flavors are woven between dark spice and leather. There are sour accents on the close that remind you of the wine’s youth. The tannins are fine and well integrated.”
James Suckling 95 points “Aromas of plums, clay tiles and sage follow through to a full to medium body, silky tannins and a linear and racy finish. Love the underlying freshness and brightness to this. Excellent. A little tannic now, so better in 2018”
Antonio Galloni 94 points “The 2013 Fontalloro shows the richer, creamier style of the vintage while maintaining plenty of Fèlsina character. Silky tannins wrap around a core of dark stone fruits as the 2013 shows off its personality. Fontalloro naturally doesn’t have the pure energy of Rancia, but it will drink well with just a few more years in bottle. Fontalloro is the most overt and ripe of the Fèlsina wines with the exception of the Colonia. A hint of French oak shapes the supple, inviting finish.”
Antonio Galloni 94 points “There is a lot to like in the 2009 Fontalloro (Sangiovese). For starters, the wine is rich, broad and ample on the palate. Hints of tobacco, savory herbs, licorice and menthol all add complexity over time. The over juiciness of the fruit is nicely balanced by clean veins of underlying acidity that give the 2009 much of its freshness. This is another wine endowed with superb balance and class.” AG
Wine Advocate 94 points “The 2012 Fontalloro (100% Sangiovese) is a stunning expression and delivers the high quality we have come to expect of this celebrated IGT Toscana wine in a less important vintage. Careful work has been done here to ensure the high quality of fruit. The Fontalloro vineyard is located on the border of the Chianti Classico and the Chianti Colli Senesi appellations. Many have called upon Fèlsina to change the wine’s status to Chianti Classico Gran Selezione, but technically it can’t be because of much of the vineyard is located outside the denomination limits. The bouquet is soft and rich with dark fruit and spice. In the mouth, Fontalloro reveals integrated tannins and acidity.”Antonio Galloni 94 points “Dark red cherry, plum, cinnamon and crushed rock nuances flesh out in the 2012 Fontalloro. Next to most of the other wines in the lineup, the 2012 Fontalloro is floral, perfumed, fresh and vibrant, with gorgeous aromatic lift, silky tannins and lovely overall balance. Fontalloro often opens up before Rancia, as is the case today, but the 2012 also possesses more than enough depth to drink well for a number of years. Still, the sexy, radiant finish makes me think most bottles won’t be around to make old bones. Put simply, the 2012 Fontalloro is an arrestingly beautiful, showy wine built to please. And please it does.”
Felsina Berardenga Rancia, Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2012 750ML ($49.95) $39 special, 24 bottles available
Antonio Galloni 94+ points “A ripe, powerful wine, the 2012 Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia offers a level of finesse that balances some of the more overt intensity of the year. Dark cherry, plum, spice, tobacco, menthol and licorice add shades of nuance as this beautifully delineated Rancia opens up in the glass. Because of its mid-weight structure, I expect the 2012 will give up its charms relatively early by Rancia standards, which means around age 15-20. The 2012 is not an obvious or explosive Rancia, rather is a wine built on compelling overall harmony.”
Felsina Berardenga Rancia, Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG 2013 1.5L ($119.95) $99 special, 10 magnums in stock now
Antonio Galloni 96 points “A huge, vibrant wine, the 2013 Chianti Classico Rancia will need at least a few years in bottle to be approachable and much more than that to be at its best. Huge swaths of tannin give the wine its energy and feel. The essence of Sangiovese from Castelnuovo Berardenga comes through loud and clear. Readers should expect an especially virile, potent Rancia in 2013.”
Antonio Galloni 96+ points “Fèlsina’s 2013 Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia bristles with energy, with veins of underlying acidity that give the wine its focus and drive. Dark red cherry, plum, rose petal, herb and licorice are some of the signatures. Most of the Fèlsina Chianti Classicos are defined by their dark fruit and savory notes, but the Rancia is also wonderfully bright and lifted from start to finish while staying very much true to the house style. Today, the Rancia gives the impression it will unwind at a glacial pace. I imagine most bottles of the 2013 will be drunk before the wine truly enters its prime.”
Wine Advocate 95 points “Here is another highlight of the vintage. The 2013 Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia is a dark, moody and sophisticated wine. It does not reveal itself immediately or in any obvious way. Instead, it doses out its intensity in careful measurements. The whole performance is seductive to say the least. That slow momentum leads to dark cherry with spice, grilled herb, wet earth and dried rose. Felsina’s Riserva Rancia is a very elegant wine, both on the nose and in the mouth.”
Speaking of the great wines of Chianti, we also have Felsina’s Gran Selezione in stock now…’
Felsina Berardenga ‘Colonia’, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2010 750ML ($199.95) $119 special, just 10 bottles in stock now
Wine Advocate 95+ points “When you hear the story of the effort that went into making the Colonia vineyard, you have to wonder if the fine folks at Fèlsina are absolutely mad. It took them two years of dynamite blasting to clear the imposing rock that had forced previous generations of the Poggiali family to virtually abandon this site. But an ambitious Giovanni Poggiali takes credit for making this spectacular vineyard what it is today. The wine produced here is quickly becoming the second flagship product after Fontalloro. The 2010 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Colonia is a wine of enormous beauty and depth. This is Sangiovese at its highest expression and any doubt I had about the previous vintage (which was the first time this wine appeared as a Gran Selezione) have been washed away by this current release. What really stands out are the wine’s precise mineral and graphite aromas that lend an incredible sense of focus and balance. The oak element is also beautifully integrated.”
The Hottest Wines of the Weekend
Wine Spectator 90 points “This has an unctuous feel, with melon, peach and star fruit notes pumping along, carried by light verbena and chamomile details. A flash of bitter citrus adds energy on the finish. Drink now through 2017. 500 cases made.”
Podere Grattamacco Bolgheri Superiore, Bolgheri 2013 750ML ($89.95) $59 special, 13 bottles in stock now
Wine Advocate 96 points “The first word that comes to mind when describing this wine is seamless. The 2013 Bolgheri Superiore Grattamacco offers a generous and forthcoming succession of dark fruit and spice-driven flavors that fit together like a long chain of pearls on a necklace. It’s impossible to taste where one flavor starts and the next one ends. That balanced and harmonious approach is evident in the mouth where it offers a silky, smooth and long textural impression. I suggest another few years of bottle aging before popping the cork on this beautiful blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 15% Sangiovese. This is no doubt the best wine from Grattamacco tasted in the past decade.”
Philippe Cambie & Gilles Ferrand Domaine de Calendal Plan de Dieu, Rhone 2014 750ML ($27.95) $21.90 special, 23+ bottles in stock now
Case-12 Philippe Cambie & Gilles Ferrand Domaine de Calendal Plan de Dieu, Rhone 2014 750ML ($299.95) $239 special (that’s only $19.92/bottle!)
Wine Advocate 90-92 points “One of the gems in the vintage is Philippe Cambie’s 2014 Côtes du Rhône Villages Plan de Dieu Calendal. Made from 70% Grenache and 30% Mourvèdre, completely destemmed, and aged 12 months in one-third each of new, once used, twice used barrels, it offers sensational notes of black raspberries, cassis, sweet spice, licorice and crushed flowers. Medium to full-bodied, ripe, beautifully texture and hedonistic, it has beautifully sweet, polished tannin and yet should be approachable on release.”
Caprili Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Tuscany 2012 750ML ($59.95) $33.50 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Case-6 Caprili Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Tuscany 2012 750ML ($319.95) $189 special (that’s only $31/bottle!)
Wine Spectator 94 points “Appealing aromas and flavors of cherry, almond, leather, iron and earth are the hallmarks of this muscular red. Remains fresh and persists on the aftertaste, with echoes of iron and tobacco. Best from 2021 through 2035. 3,500 cases made.”
Ian D’agata – Vinous 93 points “Bright deep red. Very perfumed, pure aromas of raspberry, red cherry, flint and violet. Juicy but dense, with vibrant acidity lifting the floral berry and cherry flavors on the long mineral finish, characterized by an especially silky mouthfeel. Knockout Brunello.”
Wine Enthusiast 93 points “Truffle, leather, mature black-skinned fruit and carob aromas emerge from this powerful red. The full-bodied palate delivers succulent wild cherry, black raspberry, licorice, pipe tobacco and grilled herb flavors with big, chewy tannins. Drink 2019–2027.”
Gulfi Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico DOCG, Sicily 2015 750ML ($41.95) $33 special, 16 bottles in stock now
Ian D’agata – Vinous 94 points “Dark ruby-red. Lively clean aromas and flavors of violet, chocolate and ripe red cherry and spicy dark plum. Rich dense and downright luscious on the long finish. This is fast becoming one of the best wine’s in Gulfi’s lineup; they rarely make a Cerasuolo di Vittoria that isn’t at least outstanding. Best of all, the wine is so well balanced you won’t even notice the 14% alcohol.”
And With It, The March Sale
Domaine Huet Vouvray ‘Clos du Bourg’ Sec, Loire 2016 750ML ($47.95) Was $39, Now $36 Clearance Price
Wine Spectator 93 points “Bright and pure, with delightful pear, green almond and green plum notes laced with a fennel streak, ending with finely beaded acidity and a mineral echo through the finish. Very refined. Drink now through 2027.”
Wine Advocate 92 points “Huet’s 2016 Vouvray Clos du Bourg Sec is clear, pure, fine and fresh on the chalky-mineral, delicately fruity nose. Medium-bodied, round and fruity with good mineral grip and tension but also a charming sweet creaminess, the 2016 is a very elegant and pretty complex Chenin Blanc from the chalky soils of the Clos de Bourg. The salty, persistent finish is aromatic, lush and well structured, indicating a certain sweetness, good grip and very promising aging potential. Tasted February 2018.”
Wine Spectator 94 points —#9 2015 TOP 100–“Gorgeous, with a pure, unadorned violet aroma giving way to very ripe and stylish plum, boysenberry and blackberry fruit. Offers a suave mouthfeel, with anise and tobacco hints filling the background. A finely stitched chalk note extends the finish. Not shy on depth, and sneakily long.”Robert Parker 95 points “Having just had the 2003 and 2005 from my cellar, I can attest to the magnificent turnaround in quality this famous estate on the eastern side of St.-Emilion has achieved. All of it is attributable to its dynamic proprietor, Philippe Cuvelier. The 2012 Clos Fourtet (usually 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc) has beautiful blackberry and blueberry fruit and an inky purple color. With flawless integration of acidity, tannin, wood and alcohol, a full-bodied mouthfeel and stunning richness, this is impressive and certainly one of the vintage’s top wines. It should evolve beautifully for 15-20 years, and be drinkable in 3-4. Yields were a modest 32 hectoliters per hectare with the alcohol at 14%.” RP
James Suckling 94 points “Wonderful aromas of balsamic, plum, grilled meat and spices. Full body, with round and chewy tannins. Excellent depth of fruit. The 2008 vintage shows that extra complexity to the 2009 in general. Better in 2015.”
Antonio Galloni 93+ points “Cool veins of bracing minerality form the backbone in Borgogno’s 2008 Barolo Liste. Today, the 2008 is virtually impenetrable, as the vintage and the site have combined to produce a big, powerful Barolo that will require considerable cellaring before it is ready to show all its cards. Still, there is a lot to like here, especially for those who can be patient. Tar, smoke, incense and scorched earth all add gravitas on the close, but with more time in the glass some of the sweeter notes begin to emerge. The 2008 Liste is shaping up to be magnificent.” AG
Stephen Tanzer – Vinous 92+ points “Medium red. Lovely lift to the aromas of redcurrant, marzipan and rose petal. Sappy, sweet and concentrated; a step up in tangy, saline intensity and inner-mouth tension from the Fossati. Wonderfully silky and lush in texture but a bit youthfully unforthcoming today. Delivers terrific verve and energy to its red berry and floral flavors. Finishes with sweeter tannins than the Fossati, an enticing light touch and excellent length and life. This should evolve gracefully in bottle for 20 years or more.”
Thank you for reading!
