Grüner Veltliner’s Grand Classic Wines
Return to Regnie (and Other, Also Interest Crus)
#Trending: The Lowdown on Hot Rosé
Value Champagne for Mothers and Others
Yves Cuilleron Makes Incredible White Rhones
Post-Hip, Pre-Retro, Seriously Awesome
Let it be known, though: Grüner is a noble grape with classical structure and grand potential. Not just in a “good for Grüner” way, either—these are wines that can stand toe-to-toe with any great white wine on the planet. If anything, they suffer from some Veblen-good pricing issues: if the top wines (Gobelsburg/Hirsch Lamm, Pichler Kellerberg, Alzinger, etc…) were twice as expensive, the whole category would be taken much more seriously. As it is, though, the wines remain underpriced for their levels of quality.
Speaking of that quality—if you’ve not done so, you really should try a bottle of Grüner with some bottle age. Significant bottle age, too, if you can spare the time and the space. Grüner ages for a long time, becoming slowly more woodsy and bass-noted as it ages. A bottle of 15-20 year old Grüner Veltliner would be a revelation to a white Burgundy lover, but we also have a few bottles that have a 3-5 year head start in the store right now. They’re featured below, paired with the current releases of the same wine, so you can get a sense of where these wines head with age.
F.X. Pichler Durnsteiner Kellerberg Gruner Veltliner Smaragd, Wachau 2015 750ML ($89.95) $79 special, 20 bottles in stock now
F.X. Pichler Durnsteiner Kellerberg Gruner Veltliner Smaragd, Wachau 2015 1.5L ($179.95) $133 special, 3 magnums in stock now
Wine Advocate 94 points “Like the Liebenberg from weathered granite and gneiss soils, but in a higher and cooler spot, the 2015 Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Dürnsteiner Kellerberg opens with an intense and herbal-flavored, rather spicy and stony bouquet of ripe and concentrated bright fruits. Full-bodied, ripe and piquant on the palate, this is a rich and powerful, well-concentrated and elegant Kellerberg with a rich extract and a long and persistent finish. The 2015 should be cellared for at least another 3-5 years.”
F.X. Pichler Durnsteiner Liebenberg Gruner Veltliner Smaragd, Wachau 2012 750ML ($69.95) $55 special, 14 bottles in stock now
Joel Payne-Vinous 93 points “Ripe pear, snap pea and soft herbal spices on the beautifully nuanced nose. Steely and aristocratic on the palate, showing darker fruits and more acidity than the Loibenberg, with concentrated green mango, yellow plum and celery flavors over a layer of flinty slate. Despite its impressive opulence, this is subtle, precise and pure, probably due to the extreme age of the vineyard.”
Falstaff 92-94 points “[translated] Medium greenish yellow. Attractive yellow tropical fruit, delicate pineapple and peach, with fresh wild herbs and delicately highlighted with orange zest. Powerful, a fine touch of honey, sweet extracted core, subtle acid structure, mineral reverberation, yellow fruity finish, a hint of opulence.”
Wine Advocate 93-94 points “The 2015 Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Dürnsteiner Liebenberg comes from 70- to 80-year-old vines on a rare calcareous slate soil. The wine displays a very clear and pure, pretty open and lovely spicy, crystalline and flinty bouquet with ripe pip fruit aromas. Very distinguished and rather coolish in its expression. Full-bodied, round and elegant, with tension, salt and grip in the finish, this is a charmingly ripe and juicy but also challenging mineral and piquant Veltliner from one of the most exciting terroirs. The finish is powerful and complex but also fresh and stimulatingly piquant. Pichler has bottled this wine since 2010.”
Terry Theise note: “The vineyard lies at the foot of the Gaisberg, on eroded gneiss with a lot of paragneiss, mica and amphibolite, all under a blanket of loess. Its wines are as good as the Lamm, which is a warmer site giving wines of greater amplitude and stature. Yet Renner’s quality of flavor and complexity of nuance are incomparable, and I often have it next to the Lamm just to make sure I’m not being diddled by my subjective preference for minerality. This ’16 smells glorious. Big surprise! It’s completely stunning, and it leads to a palate that’s fervidly spicy and texturally lush; the minerality is swollen and the wine is as peppery as I can remember.”
Stephen Tanzer 92 points “Slowly emerging aromas of honeyed peach, lime zest and ripe plum. Harmoniously herbal and subtly austere, with wonderfully integrated acidity lending a particularly refreshing quality to the peach and apricot flavors. This is less a veltliner to drink on its own than a very versatile food wine.” ST
Grapelive 94+ points “Johannes Hirsch’s Lamm Gruner is truly majestic. It’s a dense, dry and powerful Gruner Veltliner that is comparable to a Grosses Gewächs; it’s a gorgeous single Grand Cru trocken white with tremendous class and pedigree. Lamm has to be considered one of the greatest vineyards in Austria, and this wine shows why! This 2015 Lamm is richly and heavenly textured with silky finesse and vital energy, hiding its powerful engine under a velvet cushion with stunning concentration and the purest minerality with layers of lemon/lime, minty almond oil, white anise, white plum and crushed stones. The vineyard Lamm is set on a core of loess and mica with a sandy/brown rocky top soil which in years like 2015 give weight and depth, without sweetness or high alcohols, meaning you can have a masterpiece like this one is. This wine when open, transmits joyous harmony, pleasure throughout and subtly sprinkles in earth, spice and even a sweet/meatiness. It’s beautiful detailed and nervy or cat-like in a smooth leopard kind of way. This is greatness in the glass. Drink this Gruner Cru over the next 5 to 10 years, and be sure to check out all of the Hirsch 2015’s!”
Just click here to head straight there!
(And Other, Less Heralded Beaujolais AOCs)
Unlike Fleurie, Morgon and the like, those four villages are a bit off of the beaten path. The most famous of them is probably Brouilly, but that’s entirely because of its association with the neighboring hill/mountain that shares part of the name (the Cote de Brouilly, obviously). They tend to be a little less ageworthy than the more famous crus, but that comes with more approachability young—these are fantastic “bistro” Beaujolais.
We’ve got a selection of these wines highlighted below and grouped by village, the better for you to explore these fine wines. Regnie, to us, is like a slightly more delicate Morgon, whereas Julienas and St. Amour are more Fleurie like in character and neighbor each other in the northern part of the region. Finally, Brouilly generally is softer and more approachable than its famous brother, but with the same dark fruited character you love about the Cote. All of them are delicious and worth trying, especially at these prices.
Regnie:
Nicolas Chemarin Regnie Les Haute Ronze, Beaujolais 2014 750ML ($21.95) $18 special
Josh Raynolds–Vinous 92 points “Vivid ruby-red. Sexy, mineral-laced aromas of ripe red and dark berries, violet and licorice. Sappy and penetrating, offering bitter cherry and black raspberry flavors that become sweeter as the wine opens up. Concentrated yet lithe, delivering excellent finishing clarity and strong, mineral-driven persistence.”
Josh Raynolds–Vinous 92 points “Full ruby. Spice-tinged dark berries and a hint of violet on the fragrant nose. Supple and seamless in texture, offering pliant blackberry and cherry compote flavors that show impressive depth and power as well as vivacity. Closes velvety and broad, with gentle tannic grip, resonating florality and excellent persistence.”
Domaine Chignard Julienas Beauvernay, Beaujolais 2016 750ML ($24.95) $21.90 special, 27 bottles in stock now
Josh Raynolds 93 points “Bright violet. Potent, mineral-accented dark berry, licorice candy and floral aromas are complemented by a hint of allspice. Fleshy and appealingly sweet, offering concentrated black raspberry and violet pastille flavors underscored by an enlivening mineral nuance. Shows excellent clarity and lift on an impressively long, floral-dominated finish framed by smooth, harmonious tannins.”
Lebeaupin Saint Amour “Clos De La Brosse”, Beaujolais 2016 750ML ($21.95) $18 special, 36 bottles in stock now
Josh Raynolds 91 points “Bright violet. Aromas of fresh dark berries, candied flowers and smoky minerals take on a hint of game as the wine opens up. Sweet and pliant in the mouth, offering juicy boysenberry and cherry flavors that put on weight with air. Finishes sappy and smooth, displaying very good persistence, a repeating gamy note and fine-grained tannins that sneak in slowly. Here’s a Beaujolais that shows a slightly wild streak, in a good way.”
Brouilly:
Joseph Drouhin Domaine des Hospices de Belleville Brouilly, Beaujolais 2015 750ML ($27.95) $21.90 special, 16+ bottles in stock now
Case-12 Joseph Drouhin Domaine des Hospices de Belleville Brouilly, Beaujolais 2015 750ML ($299.95) $239 special (that’s only $19.92/bottle!)
James Suckling 93 points “Lots of spices and granite with crushed berries and citrus. Medium to full body, a solid core of black fruit and real intensity. Real Brouilly. Drink now.”
Josh Raynolds 91 points “Deep lurid red. Fresh, mineral-accented red berry and cherry scents; deeper licorice and black cardamom nuances emerge with aeration. Juicy, focused and nicely concentrated, offering bitter cherry and red currant flavors that take a sweeter turn on the back half. Lingers with strong, spicy persistence on the finish, which is framed by dusty, building tannins.”
Case-12 Pierre-Marie Chermette Domaine du Vissoux Brouilly Pierreux, Beaujolais 2016 750ML ($339.95) $279 special (that’s only $23.25/bottle!)
Josh Raynolds 92 points “Lurid ruby. Bright and sharply focused on the nose, displaying intense red fruit and floral scents and a smoky mineral overtone that builds with air. Appealingly sweet and lively on the palate, offering intense raspberry and cherry liqueur flavors that deepen on the back half while maintaining energy. The floral quality comes back strong on an energetic, silky finish that leaves a juicy red berry note behind.”
VinopolNote: Brouilly is normally considered to be the lighter cousin of the Cote de Brouilly. In the hands of Chermette, though, this is a wine that has depth and power, with the finesse that the 2016 vintage brings with it. This is still a pretty wine and among the most drinkable in the Vissoux lineup, but will reward a little time in your cellar if you can keep your hands off it.
Jean-Louis Dutraive Domaine de la Grand’Cour Brouilly Vieilles Vignes, Beaujolais 2015 750ML ($49.95) $39 special, 22 bottles in stock now
Josh Raynolds 92 points “Lurid ruby. Powerful aromas of ripe red berries, blood orange, succulent herbs and lavender take on a smoky mineral nuance as the wine opens up. Plump and broad on the palate, offering sweet, mineral-tinged black raspberry and cherry flavors and a hint of spicecake. Shows excellent clarity and solid punch on the dark-berry-dominated finish, which is framed by supple, harmonious tannins.”
Wine Advocate 92-94 points “The 2015 Brouilly Cuvée des Fous had been racked the day before my visit to the domaine and I tasted this directly from vat. It has an intense dark cherry, cassis and iodine-scented bouquet with gorgeous raspberry ripple scents lurking just underneath. The palate is very well balanced with fine, very lithe tannin. The acidity here is perfectly judged, as it sashays towards a composed and very pure and long finish. Wow – this is going to turn into one sensual and compelling Beaujolais.”
Giving You the Rosé Rundown
Peyrassol Cotes de Provence ‘Le Clos Peyrassol’ Rose, Provence 2017 750ML ($49.95) $44 special
Peyrassol Cotes de Provence ‘Le Clos Peyrassol’ Rose, Provence 2017 1.5L ($119.95) $99 special
Importer note “Made from the estate’s best and oldest parcels of Grenache, Cinsault, Mourvedre, and Carignan, “Le Clos” represents a minuscule fraction of Peyrassol’s total production. While this 2017 offers greater richness and intensity than the previous two wines, it nonetheless displays the fat-free muscularity and drive of the vintage, with a salt-dominated and tight-grained finish that promises mid-term age-ability. Interestingly, “Le Clos” is the most glisteningly light-colored of the trio, proving once again that color and intensity are completely independent phenomena.”
Domaine de la Janasse Cotes du Rhone Rose, Rhone 2015 750ML ($19.95) $11.90 special
VinopolNote: A versatile rose with savory, herbal notes from a legendary Chateauneuf producer. A blend of Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault grown in clay limestone, galets and sandy soil. Practicing organic & biodynamic.
Importer note “Hand harvested and fermentation in tank, vines are between 10 and 60 years old. Wine is aged for 4 months in tank. A fruity and generous rosé with strawberry and clay aromas.”
Domaine Saint Damien Gigondas Rose, Rhone 2016 750ML ($24.95) Was $21.90, Now $16.60 May Clearance Price
Josh Raynolds–Vinous 91 points “Bright orange-pink. Ripe red berries and blood orange on the fragrant nose. In a warm, fleshy style, offering juicy, nicely concentrated raspberry and orange zest flavors that turn livelier on the back half. Smooth and seamless on the impressively persistent and penetrating finish, which leaves a sappy red berry note behind.”
80% Cinsault (planted in 1970), 20% Grenache. Soil is red clay and broken stones. Vineyard plot located on the lower terraced lands of the Gigondas appellation, at a spot called la Moutte.
Peyrassol Cotes de Provence ‘Chateau Peyrassol’ Rose, Provence 2017 750ML ($31.95) $26 special
Peyrassol Cotes de Provence ‘Chateau Peyrassol’ Rose, Provence 2017 1.5L ($99.95) $79 special
Importer note “Made entirely from estate fruit in 2017, “Chateau” is primarily Cinsault, with increasingly smaller amounts of Grenache, Mourvedre, Tibouren, and Syrah. This is a higher-toned, more floral, more filigree wine than its brother above, with subtle herbal notes framing clean, lifted fruit on the nose. Though equally as dense—and perhaps more penetrating due to its more overt mineral character—it is no richer than the “Commanderie,” and it expresses the vintage’s firm tension with elegance.”
Domaine de Bagnol Cassis Rose, Provence 2017 750ML ($39.95) $29 special
Domaine de Bagnol Cassis Rose, Provence 2017 1.5L ($74.95) $66 special
Importer note “The always-warm and inviting Genovesi clan expressed justifiable enthusiasm over their 2017 Cassis Rose—a wine of painfully low production (Bagnol suffered over a 50% crop loss in ’17 due to hydric stress and early-spring frost, the second severely compromised harvest in a row here quantity-wise) but vigorous character. Always among the most coveted of our roses, this vintage is even more blatantly saline than usual, with a sense of dense power lurking below the unabashedly pretty candied strawberry and quinine-inflected freshness. The finish really announces the vintage’s concentration, with a high-toned drive and a sense of mineral-driven solidity.”
Thibaud Boudignon Anjou Rose, Loire 2017 750ML ($24.95) $21.90 special
Importer note “100% Cabernet Franc from 37 year old vines grown in shallow soils of grey schist and rhyolite (volcanic soil) and sand. Indigenous yeast fermentation with no malo. Aged 4-6 months stainless steel.”
Domaine Brazilier Coteaux du Vendomois Tradition Rose, Loire 2017 750ML ($14.95) $11.90 special
VinopolNote “100% Pineau d’Aunis, this always shows bright and spicy, with white pepper and grapefruit zest on the nose and on the palate. Fresh and delightful.”
Suitable for Your Favorite Mom
or Anyone Else, Really
Thierry Triolet Carte Noire Brut, Champagne NV 750ML ($44.95) $33 special, 36+bottles in stock now
Josh Raynolds–Vinous 90 points “(90% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Noir; 10 g/l dosage): Light yellow. Vibrant, mineral-accented aromas of fresh citrus and orchard fruits, with suave floral and candied ginger notes adding complexity. Fleshy and broad on entry, then tighter in the mid-palate, offering juicy green apple and orange zest flavors and a touch of white pepper. Closes silky and smoky, with good clarity and length.”
Josh Raynolds–Vinous 90 points ” Light orange-pink. Ripe, spice-accented cherry and tangerine on the fragrant, vinous nose. Fleshy and broad in the mouth, offering pliant red berry and orchard fruit flavors and a hint of candied rose. Seems like there’s a lot more pinot in this blend. Closes chewy and firm, with building spiciness and a hint of bitter orange pith.”
Josh Raynolds–Vinous 90 points “(85% Pinot Noir and 15% Chardonnay; no dosage): Light gold. Pungent aromas of ripe pear, white peach and melon, with a suave floral element coming up with aeration. Intense orchard and pit fruit flavors are underscored by smoky mineral and gingery spice notes that gain strength with aeration. Finishes tight, dry and long, with firm grip and repeating spiciness.”
The next best price is $38.75
Thierry Triolet Cuvee Grande Reserve Blanc de Blancs, Champagne NV 1.5L ($79.95) $69 special, 10 magnums in stock now
Josh Raynolds–Vinous 91 points “Pale gold. Intense citrus and orchard fruit aromas are complicated by notes of honeysuckle, tarragon and iodine. Chewy tangerine and pear skin flavors become silkier and spicier with aeration. Shows a seductive floral quality on the clinging finish, which features a dusty mineral nuance and a touch of buttered toast.”
Jose Michel & Fils Brut, Champagne NV 375ML ($21.95) $18 special, 36+ half-bottles in stock now
Josh Raynolds–Vinous 91 points “(70% Pinot Meunier and 30% Chardonnay; 9 g/l dosage): Light yellow-gold. Fresh tangerine, pear and sweet butter on the fragrant nose. Smooth and weighty in the mouth, offering pliant orchard fruit and melon flavors and a bracing kick of bitter citrus zest. A minerally element adds lift and cut to the penetrating finish, which leaves a suave floral note behind.”
Importer note “Produced entirely from Grand Cru grapes from the village of Ambonnay, this stunning Brut Tradition shows rich, leesy fruit obtained through extended bottle aging prior to disgorging. Quite vinous in texture, it is full and long with crisp apple fruit notes on the finish and showing some toasty notes in the nose. Very low dosage levels allow the great Ambonnay fruit to shine.”
Lot H414T1G7; Disgorged 07/2017; 25% Chardonnay/75% Pinot Noir
100% Grand Cru, 100% Pinot Noir, no dosage
Antonio Galloni 91 points “The NV Brut Nature Silver is naturally a very focused, driven wine given the no-dosage style. This shows wonderful nuance and depth all the way through to the long finish, with bright aromas and flavors but less of the toastiness than some of the house’s other wines. The mousse and finish are both utterly impeccable in their elegance.” AG
R. Dumont & Fils Solera Reserve Blanc de Blancs, Champagne NV 750ML ($49.95) $39 special, 22 bottles in stock now
Josh Raynolds-Vinous 92 points “(made from a blend of 20 vintages, with 1991 as its base; roughly 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay; 6 g/l dosage): Pale yellow. A wild, assertively perfumed bouquet displays scents of mineral-accented poached pear, honey, toasted nuts and smoky lees, with a suave floral element building in the glass. Stains the palate with ripe orchard and pit fruit flavors, along with suggestions of buttered toast, marzipan and bitter lemon pith. Shows excellent clarity and power on the finish, which clings with strong fruity persistence. This complex, concentrated Champagne would be fantastic with aged or blue cheeses.”
White Rhones With the Elegance of Burgundy
While he’s best known for his Condrieu and Cote Rotie, he also makes a stunning set of wines from St. Joseph and St. Peray, as well as Cornas and Crozes-Hermitage. Unlike a large negociant, he owns his vines, most of them old massale selections that his family assembled through the three generations since the domaine was founded.
While he’s gained notoriety for his red wines, we think that he may be the best producer of elegant whites in the Northern Rhone, across a variety of appellations. His whites, from both Marsanne and Viognier (depending on the appellation) are less oaked and showy than the wines from Guigal or Chapoutier, for example, and show extremely precise flavors that work brilliantly at the table. This is a hard feat to pull off-they remind us of white Burgundy filtered through a Northern Rhone lens. We have as many of them in stock as we can, but unfortunately are limited by our allocations to just a few cases of each wine. To see a full list, just click here and view them all on our website.
Cave Yves Cuilleron Saint-Joseph Lieu-Dit Digue, Rhone 2016 750ML ($49.95) $39 special
Grapelive 95 points “…. As a long time follower and fan of Cuilleron, I was thrilled with his latest set of wines, from his generic varietal bottlings, …. This rare 100% Roussanne Saint-Joseph Blanc Lieu-Dit Digue was my personal favorite, Cuilleron ferments his AOC whites with native yeasts and in wood with long lees elevage (aging in barrel) and malos in small barrels with Burgundy like care and batonage (aged Sur Lie with lees stirring), this especially shows in the heavenly mouth feel and beautiful class in the glass, it’s a fresh and vibrant wine, but with impressive depth and density, it is great alternative to the money pricy Hermitage Blanc, it really is exceptional and ultra quality for the money. The Yves Cuilleron Digue starts with faint delicate white flowers, yeasty notes, wet stone and white orchard fruits on the nose before opening up on the full bodied palate to gorgeous apricot, peach and exotic tropical fruits, which are not overt or sweetly expressed, but lifting and seductive in their subtlety along with hints of fennel, clove and creamy melon and citrus sorbet, a touch of classic oily charm and saline with a background of liquid rock and flinty mineral tones, this an absolutely brilliant wine.…”
Cave Yves Cuilleron Condrieu Lieu-Dit Vernon, Rhone 2015 750ML ($119.95) $89 special
Josh Raynolds 94 points “(40 percent new oak) Light bright gold. Expansive orange, honeydew melon and violet aromas show outstanding clarity and minerally lift. Silky and taut on entry, then fleshier in the midpalate, offering vivid citrus and pit fruit and ginger flavors complemented by subtle anise and vanilla qualities. Finishes with strong mineral cut and excellent focus, leaving a suave floral note behind. Through the 2014 vintage this wine was known as “Vertige.””
James Suckling 94 points “This is super ripe with bold yellow peach and poached apricot custard. Super concentrated and extremely rich. The palate carries a fresh saltiness with big fruit presence. Orange and almond to close. Drink now.”
Importer (Neal Rosenthal) Note “The vineyards of Viognier are planted on terraces with a south-southeast exposure in the commune of Chavanay. The wine is barrel-fermented and barrel-aged; the elevage is nine months with regular batonnage occurring.”
Cave Yves Cuilleron Condrieu Les Chaillets, Rhone 2014 750ML ($79.95) $66 special
Josh Raynolds–Vinous 94 points “(aged in oak, 33% of it new): Pale gold. Penetrating aromas of fresh citrus and orchard fruits and violet are joined by hints of chalky minerals, fennel and ginger. Juicy and deeply concentrated on the palate, offering pear nectar and Meyer lemon flavors that show superb clarity and drive. The mineral and floral notes come back strong on the incisive finish, which hangs on with outstanding focus and tenacity.”
Importer (Neal Rosenthal) Note “The vineyards for this wine are situated in the village of Chavanay with an east-southeast exposure. The soil is a mix of sand and granite. Both Marsanne and Roussanne are in this blend. The wine is barrel-fermented and barrel-aged; the elevage is nine months.”
Importer (Neal Rosenthal) Note ““Biousse” is on a hillside lieu-dit just south of the village itself where the soil is made up of Pliocene red clays and granite scree. The wine is 100% Marsanne, aged in a higher proportion of small barrels than “Potiers”; elevage is approximately nine months on the lees without racking , but with regular batonage before bottling.”
Importer (Neal Rosenthal) Note “This cuvée is sourced from the best exposed and the oldest Viognier vines of the domaine (south-southeast exposure, planted on terraces in the commune of Chavanay). Barrel-fermented and barrel-aged with regular batonnage during the nine-month elevage.”
Importer (Neal Rosenthal) Note “The limestone-dominated terroir of Saint-Peray lends its wines a different character from those of Saint-Joseph: more finely mineral, more floral, and less viscous. “Potiers” is a blend of equal parts Marsanne and Roussanne planted in the poor alluvial soils typical of the appellation, fermented and aged in a combination of foudres and smaller barrels. A rich, luscious nose of hazelnut cream and honeysuckle gives way to a round, intensely spicy palate that carries its alcohol deftly and finishes long and fresh.”
Thanks for reading!