Clos Vougeot
New February Clearance Sale Wine
When discussing the wines of the Cote de Nuits it is hard not to mention Domaine Faiveley. Founded in 1825, with its seventh generation now at the helm, Faiveley carries a long-standing tradition of winemaking in the Cote d’Or. But the domaine also believes in progress: pre-sorting of all grapes, long low-temperature fermentations, barrel ageing in the family’s 19th century vaulted cellar. From red and white regional Bourgogne and village-level cuvees, to the estate-farmed 62 acres of Premier Cru and 25 acres of Grand Cru, Faiveley makes wine like a small, quality-driven producer.
We’re excited to be getting some 2010 Faiveley Clos de Vougeot tomorrow—a back vintage find of one of the jewels in the producer’s crown. It’s hard enough to find their Vougeot as a current release, so when we found out some was available with a little age on it, we bought as much as we could. Unfortunately, that wasn’t as much as we’d like—there’s only nine or so six-packs worth of wine to go around. Considering the stature of the vineyard, the quality of the vintage and the producer, it won’t last long (especially at the best price in the country).
Arriving Tomorrow:
Domaine Faiveley Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru, Cote de Nuits 2010 750ML ($299.95) $159 pre-arrival special
Case-6 Domaine Faiveley Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru, Cote de Nuits 2010 750ML ($1119.95) $899 pre-arrival special (that’s only $149.83/bottle!)
Stephen Tanzer-Vinous 93-96 points “(just 20 hectoliters per hectare produced): Good deep red. Very pure, complex nose melds 
black cherry, minerals, black pepper, wild herbs and an earthy nuance. Large-scaled, sweet and rich, with a strong mineral underpinning to the flavors of black cherry and spices. A very powerful and impressive Clos Vougeot with outstanding persistence. The crop-limiting effect of the December frost has produced a wine with stunning concentration.”
Burghound 92-95 points “This is unusually elegant in 2010 with its refined nose of raspberry and earth though there are background notes of grilled meat and smoke. The supple, mouth coating and utterly delicious broad-shouldered flavors possess a silky texture yet there is plenty of power and punch to the very firmly structured finish. While there is a certain delicacy present, this will still need all of 15 years to realize its full potential. Drink 2025+.”
The average price is $187
Grapelive 94-96 points “Weingut von Winning’s inspirational winegrower Stephan Attmann has adopted the single cane
trellising, much like done in Burgundy. [The] Grosses Gewächs wines ferment in 500ML French barrels with native yeasts and no pumping as the winery is all gravity flow. Von Winning [practices] organic and sustainable viticulture to highlight each Grand Cru (GG) with this Kalkofen set on a combo of limestone, marl and loam, making it one of the more exotic and flamboyant of the top wines here. This was especially true in the 2011, 2012 and 2015 vintages, while this gorgeous 2016 is a bit more refined and vibrant: a near perfect expression of place and vintage. Von Winning’s wines transcend varietal. This glorious dry white has elements of a fine Meursault or Batard-Montrachet in its soul, even though it’s all Riesling at is core, with power from its extract and acidity, depth, and complexity adding to the intriguing stylistic charms in this GG. My tasting notes are from two separate barrel samples tried about 5 months apart. The final finished bottling certainly will be more complex, deeper in flavor and fuller in texture, but without question this was a special and beautiful dry Riesling even in its youth. In this primary form, it shows fantastic detailing already and has potential of greatness. Von Winning’s Kalkofen GG starts with a slightly muted perfume of white flowers, citrusy fruit, chalky stones and leesy brioche with a touch of reduction like a white Burgundy before its medium/full palate gets rolling with brisk stone/orchard fruits, delicate spices, steely mineral tones and salty essences. A bit of sulfur blurs the picture, this is due to this being a cask sample I’m sure, [and] luckily it blows off quickly allowing everything to come into bright and clear focus in seconds. There is lovely texture and length to admire here. Again it feels surprisingly majestic… in a Meursault sort of way, gaining depth with air adding green apple, lime, white peach, wet rock, rose water, tangy citronella, a hint of sweet oak and hazelnut. There’s a ton of underlying extract and brilliant acidity, which plays in a yin and yang way giving great focus and tension. This is a powerful wine that will only get better over time. This will be a wine to look for. It’s a fabulous expression of the Pfalz and Grosses Gewachs, with a touch of the exotic, but done in a wonderfully elegant way. It’s a Riesling to blow the minds of the Burgundy-only crowd, impressive and with star quality impact. Best from 2020-2030.”
New Arrivals: Oregon
Winery Note “Arley’s leap harkens from a block of Pinot noir planted in 1990 at Abbey Ridge Vineyard. The eponymous hero was Bill and Julia Wayne’s old dog Arley, who survived a jump from a second story balcony when startled by a cat.”
Cameron Winery Dundee Hills Rouge de Gris, Willamette Valley 2015 750ML ($39.95) $33 special
Winery note on the previous 2014 vintage: “This wine is dedicated to the late Stanko Radikon and his son, Saša of Radikon Oslavia, who made us realize the potential locked up in the Pinot gris grape. Its nose is resplendent with juicy strawberries, bing cherries, violets and a touch of straw. The crisp palate with flavors of umami and ripe and supple fruit tannins make this a truly quaffable red wine. The label honors the Italian plums that were planted on the site by early Oregon settlers prior to its current status as a Pinot gris vineyard at Abbey Ridge. We wish that David Lett were here to see what is possible with Pinot gris!”
New Arrivals: California
Case-12 Arrowood Winery Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, California 2014 750ML ($359.95) $288 special (that’s only $24/bottle!)
Wine Advocate 92 points “Very deep garnet-purple in color, the 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon, composed of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Merlot and 4% Malbec, is scented of red currants, blackberries and wild blueberries with touches of olives and underbrush. Medium-bodied, tightly wound and packed with tense red and black fruits, it has a fine-grained texture and savory finish. 9,600 cases were produced.”
New Arrivals: France – Burgundy
Stephen Tanzer 91 points “Pale, bright yellow. Lemon drop, grapefruit and white flowers on the nicely perfumed nose, plus a subtle note of spicy oak. Tactile, lemony and precise, with subtle saline minerality giving oomph to the middle palate of this surprisingly intense, brisk wine. Delivers striking salinity for village wine, and finishes subtly persistent and firm. Balanced from day one but has the energy and spine to evolve positively in bottle. A very successful village wine with excellent length.”
Winery note “[Translated] The Meursault-Blagny includes four climats classified as 1er Cru: La Jeunelotto, La Piece-Sous-Le-
Bois, Sous-Le-Dos-d’Ane and Sous-Blagny. Our Meursault-Blagny comes from the Sous-Le-Dos-d’Ane and Sous-Blagny climats. This wine is characterized by a beautiful minerality and a great length. The rich aromas evolve on the palate from notes of citrus and white flowers toward those of honey, buttered toasted bread and hazelnut with age. This wine will keep 8-10 years in proper storage.”VinopolNote: This vineyard lies high up the slope, abutting the Puligny 1er vineyard “Sous le Puis” and remains one of the best kept secrets in Meursault. This is partially because of the size of the vineyard (barely larger than 1ha) and partially because most of the wine from here has traditionally either gone to the UK or stayed in France.
Chapelle de Blagny La Piece Sous le Dos d’Ane, Blagny Premier Cru 2015 750ML ($89.95) $69 special
VinopolNote: This is the smallest plot owned by the domaine and the most limited in production. The wine is the richest and most powerful of the bunch. This is from further down the slope and shows the increased warmth and richness that that brings.
James Suckling 97 points “This is one of the greatest wines I have ever had from here. So much ripe cherry, raspberry and floral character. Medium body, super-refined tannins and a long and flavorful finish. So much going on here. Better in 2021.”
Wine Advocate 95 points “The 2013 Barolo Bussia is my favorite wine among Marco Parusso’s new releases. This wine shows an extraordinary level of richness and softness that speaks to the unique winemaking style proposed by this innovative producer. The Bussia cru tends to produce softer and finer fruit characteristics. The bouquet delivers elegant notes of wild berry, forest floor and white truffle with mineral notes such as pencil shaving delicately tucked in at the back. The wine sees up to 60% stem inclusion and maceration times are long. This Barolo is articulate and profoundly expressive.”
Pio Cesare Barolo DOCG, Piedmont 2013 750ML ($69.95) $59 special
Wine Advocate 95 points “The Pio Cesare 2013 Barolo offers all of the plentiful qualities that make this such a memorable vintage. Because the growing season was slightly cooler compared to the two years preceding it, 2013 offers a great sense of freshness and brightness. Fruit was sourced from seven different vineyard sites (with much of it coming from Serralunga d’Alba). Starting in 2015, Monforte d’Alba fruit will be added. The tannins are tightly integrated within the firm fabric of the wine. Yet, the finish is round and supple. This Barolo offers characteristic aromas of wild berry, black truffle and cola. It is executed in a very traditional style with botte grande and a tiny part barrique to give the wine a tad more oxygen during its integration and aging process.”
Cavallotto Bricco Boschis, Barolo DOCG 2013 750ML ($89.95) $66 special
Cavallotto Bricco Boschis, Barolo DOCG 2013 1.5L ($179.95) $149 special
Monica Larner – Wine Advocate 96+ points “Cavallotto is on a roll with some very impressive new releases. The 2013 Barolo Bricco Boschis is a tremendous effort that has an edge on the excellent 2010 vintage in my view. The wine shows a beautifully exuberant but elegant bouquet with the ethereal and undertone fruit and spice aromas you get with Nebbiolo. Although the wine is never overdone, it does show silky persistence and a long finish that comes from the noble nature of the tannins and the wine’s textural finesse. Yet, it is playfully deceiving in a way because behind that polished grace, it delivers impressive depth and power.”
Monica Larner – Wine Advocate 95 points “The Cavallotto 2011 Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe is an exceptional wine that really shows the best of Castiglione Falletto, home to some of Barolo’s most consistent and age-worthy wines. This bottle offers enormous complexity coupled by power and linear, classic lines. Maceration stopped at 20 days, otherwise the winemaking team feared the results would be overdone and too bold. The bouquet opens quickly to reveal dark fruit, spice, anise seed and licorice. The effect is ethereal and lasting. It would be hard to pin this wine down as being from the warm 2011 vintage in a blind tasting. The acidity is fresh and nicely folded into the background.”
Cavallotto Bricco Boschis Vignolo, Barolo Riserva DOCG 2011 750ML ($119.95) $89 special
Monica Larner – Wine Advocate 93 points “2011 Barolo Riserva Vignolo is a dark and succulent expression that showcases the characteristics of the warm vintage. The bouquet puts forth a compelling set of dark fruit characteristics with Morello cherry, dried blackberry, mocha and delicate accents of sweet spice. The vineyard team was careful to keep the clusters under the shade of the canopy for as long as possible during the summer months to prevent the grapes from ripening too fast or bleaching their color pigments. The results are very nice indeed.”
Terry Theise note: “After the Lamm this takes us back to a contralto murmur, a mellow bronze roastiness, and a kind of limitless friendliness. Possibly the outer limits of complexity are embedded in here somewhere, but right now my heart is melted by the enveloping embrace. As the wine exhales in the glass it gets saltier and grainier, but it never stops glowing. You never knew that affirmation could be so tender, or tenderness be so affirming.”
Terry Theise note “A conglomerate of slate and porphyry, the site entails the little hollows between cliff-sides; it’s very steep and terraced and quiet, which may account for the wines’ riddlesome nature, wines of pure inference and umami that need several years not just to blossom, but simply to say what they taste like. This is especially true of the dry wines. This ’16 is relatively overt and smoky, but no sequence of descriptors will be useful—it’s just too soon. The texture seems more lush than usual, and there’s an earthy note, and as compelling as it is, I respect the shroud and will wait patiently.”
Weingut Donnhoff Felsenberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs, Nahe 2016 750ML ($69.95) $49 special
Terry Theise note “Perhaps the apex of porphyry (though it contains decomposed melaphyr also), and I would argue this is the finest expression of what I deem to be Riesling’s most noble home. I could write at great length about the flavor of porphyry-grown Riesling, among wine’s greatest miracles. Suffice it to say, these wines taste as though they were made by a vizier with a boiling cauldron and a set of a hundred spice boxes. It’s hard to fathom such wines coming from prosaic grapes and dirt, and yet they do. And while any solidly competent grower lucky enough to have Riesling sites on this soil will make fascinating wine, Dönnhoff is like Bach, another order of being. This ’16 is a euphoric thrall of porphyry aromas, and the palate is an entire quarry or pulverized mineral with edges of sorrel and dandelion greens. It’s both limpid and energetic.”
Terry Theise note: “This wine is oh so pretty and has such a calm tranquil demeanor that you don’t notice its complexity at first. There’s fragrances of plum and fresh ocean fish leading to a slightly singed spice note that even harkens to paprika. An endearing and interesting dry Riesling showing the clement nature of the site.”
Weingut Donnhoff Niederhauser Hermannshohle Riesling Spatlese, Nahe 2016 750ML ($59.95) $49 special
Terry Theise note “For many people this is a ne plus ultra of Riesling, and they’ll be happy to hear that ’16 is a firm and herbal version of a classic for which the typical descriptors apply. But what you can’t describe is the moment – and there’s always a moment—when the love overcomes your resistance, your doubt or your fear, and you let yourself fall; finally someone sees you, your cells are urging toward her, and hoo boy, this could be bliss; watch out… here goes.”
Weingut Donnhoff Niederhauser Hermannshohle Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel, Nahe 2016 750ML ($89.95) $69 special
Weingut Donnhoff Niederhauser Hermannshohle Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel, Nahe 2016 375ML ($49.95) $39 special
Terry Theise note “More fruit-forward than usual, though with many gleaming green angles; it’s numinous and almost minty, juicy, not terribly sweet, a cherry-candy rendering of botrytis; not clamorous but an unusual and compelling Auslese.”
Terry Theise note “All previously used adjectives apply! Slatey and smoky, a glory vintage of a great beauty. A 2008 we drank last Fall brought us to our knees, and Helmut’s been presenting unwary visitors with a 1990 vintage, which is a stunning wine from this “unexceptional” vineyard.”
From David Schildknecht at Vinous
In Stock Now:
Weingut Carl Loewen Estate Riesling, Mosel 2016 750ML ($19.95) $16 special
David Schildknecht – Vinous 90 points “It’s not hard to intuit how this generic bottling came about. For nearly two decades, Loewen offered two Kabinetts each vintage from his mixed slate and sand Klostergarten vineyards, one halbtrocken and one a bit sweeter, both delicious and versatile. At some point, US importer Terry Theise must have been one of the few remaining Loewen customers with any interest in low-alcohol Riesling of discreet or hidden sweetness, and Klostergarten Kabinett was discontinued. This year, Theise enlisted the Loewens and their vines in the Longuicher Herrenberg and Leiwener Klostergarten (supplemented by some juice from Thörnich) for this US-only bottling of 10.5% alcohol. Its subtle sweetness is delightfully supportive of luscious apple and Persian melon on a delicate, satiny palate, then drops nearly below the threshold of detection on a vibrant finish saturated with mineral salts and tingling with fresh lime and crystalline-stony impingements. I am confident one need be in no hurry to drink up this highly versatile libation and won’t be surprised if my prognosis of ageability proves overly conservative. (Incidentally, this was a bit sweet-sour and much less expressive when first tasted in late July 2017 than it is today in early 2018, so I’m really glad I had something more than my first impression to go on in judging it.)”
David Schildknecht – Vinous 92 points “Like its 2015 predecessor, this 2016 displays a slight cheesy, yeasty fermentative veil, but from behind that emerge seductive perfumes of rowan and heliotrope along with scents of ripe quince, pear and grapefruit that set the tone for a luscious performance on the buoyant, silky palate. The tang and tingle of pear skin and grapefruit zest convey a sense of invigoration that contrasts with the more placid Himmelreich and its gliding finish. The sweet nuttiness typical for Domprobst – here in pistachio-like guise – conveys richness, and stony underpinnings provide a sense of Mosel-typical depth. (Bear in mind that I subtracted a point from my score for this wine’s youthful “Mosel stink,” but it has a fine future.)”
Weingut Willi Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spatlese #5, Mosel 2016 750ML ($54.95) $49 special
David Schildknecht – Vinous 93 points “Ripe apple and pear garlanded in honeysuckle entice the nose, accompanied by high-toned suggestions of almond and pistachio extracts. A subtly creamy palate displays luscious fruit, heady inner-mouth perfume and rich nuttiness. There is less counterpoint or refreshment here than in the corresponding A.P. #10, but greater opulence has not precluded a delectable sense of delicacy, and the seductively soothing, superbly sustained finish offers a reassuring whisper of wet stone.”
Weingut Willi Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spatlese #10, Mosel 2016 750ML ($44.95) $39 special
David Schildknecht – Vinous 92 points “Golden Delicious apple and honeydew melon draped in hyacinth make for an imposingly ripe nose and a luscious, perfumed, seductively silken-textured palate. A cooling hint of wintergreen and a gentle nip of apple skin add appeal to a soothingly and refreshingly lingering finish.”
Weingut Willi Schaefer Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett, Mosel 2016 750ML ($37.95) $33 special
David Schildknecht – Vinous 92 points “Apple blossom, honeysuckle and clover on the nose reemerge as seductive inner-mouth perfume on a polished palate, accompanied by a juicy abundance of fresh apple, grapefruit and white peach. The delicacy and refreshment, not to mention lusciousness of fruit, conveyed on this Kabinett’s lingering finish render it almost impossible for me to spit. “It was like that already in February,” remarked Christoph Schaefer with a grin.”
Weingut Willi Schaefer Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spatlese, Mosel 2016 750ML ($44.95) $39 special
David Schildknecht – Vinous 93 points “Scents of ripe pear and pineapple garlanded in heliotrope set the stage for a polished, subtly creamy palate performance at once luscious, invigoratingly tangy, and loaded with seductive inner-mouth perfume. I thought the corresponding Kabinett exquisitely delicate, but this Spätlese seems virtually weightless. The lingering finish is almost like an inhalation of flowers and wet stone, save for the tingling impingement of pear skin, a faint tang of pineapple core and a nip of cress. I sense that I may be in the minority, but I perceive 2016 as one of those vintages chez Schaefer where Himmelreich gives Domprobst a very serious run for its money.”
Weingut A.J. Adam Dhroner Hofberg Riesling Kabinett, Mosel 2016 750ML ($31.95) $26 special
David Schildknecht – Vinous 91+ points “Adam didn’t vinify a village-level dry Piesporter this vintage, but luckily we have this luscious Kabinett. Faintly dusty and fermentative notes veil the nose, but behind those come prickly notes of nettle and cassis leaf along with intimations of the lemon and grapefruit that dominate on a delicate, generously juicy palate. The long-lingering, animatingly bright finish is transparent to stony, alkaline and pungently herbal nuances. This needs some time for the aromas to clarify. And there’s no question that its flavors are the least ripe among the three Adam 2016 vintage Kabinetts, which presumably reflects the fact that to achieve Kabinett levity it’s necessary to harvest sooner in Goldtröpfchen than in other nearby sites.”
David Schildknecht – Vinous 94 points “Picked at the end of October, the fruit for this Auslese weighed in between 92 and 94 Oechsle and was botrytis-free. “I left the grapes hanging in the uppermost terrace simply to try harvesting an Auslese from Häs’chen,” explained Adam. Very advanced ripeness is signaled in scents and flavors of peach, mango and muskmelon. The texture is creamy and lusciously juicy. The seductively lingering finish is prominently sweet, but that suits this wine’s sense of ripeness, and an influx of maritime salinity mouthwateringly cuts and complements that sweetness, while what seem to be site-typical suggestions of crushed stone and ash add intrigue. The sense of clarity and the abundance of mineral nuances are striking – and rare in an Auslese of such richness and near-overripeness.”
David Schildknecht – Vinous 90 points “Sourced largely from younger vines in the Hofberg, this year’s tank-raised generic cuvée finished at eight grams of residual sugar, which seems to support the luscious abundance of white peach and Persian melon while not engendering any sense of outright sweetness. Piquancy of peach kernel, subtle black tea smokiness and pungency of resinous green herbs serve for counterpoint, while an influx of lemon and grapefruit supplies animating brightness on a satiny palate and a buoyant, multifaceted, consummately refreshing finish. Few “intro-level” German Riesling bottlings approach the quality-price rapport of Adam’s, and even fewer at anything approaching this wine’s mere 10.5% alcohol. (The 2015, equally impressive in its way, harbored 12% naturally. But many illustrious Moselaner chaptalize their Gutsriesling to around that level on a knee-jerk, body-boosting basis, thereby missing an opportunity to advertise the singular alcoholic levity of which dry Mosel Riesling is capable. “It may be that for the normal wine drinker the rounder 2015 is more flattering,” observed Adam astutely, “but the 2016 has more tension and more nooks and crannies.”)”
Weingut A.J. Adam Dhroner Hofberg Riesling Auslese*, Mosel 2016 375ML ($69.95) $49 pre-arrival special
David Schildknecht – Vinous 91 points “This “one-star” Auslese represents the later fraction of pressing from the frozen grapes harvested on November 30. Papaya, peach and candied lemon peel on the nose set the tone for a silken-textured, tartly tingling palate. An influx of salinity provides welcome saliva-inducement in a rich yet bright, albeit relatively opaque finish. The sense of invigoration and grip here are highly impressive. And possibly it will clarify more with some time in bottle, though as with most Riesling crushed from frozen grapes, I would monitor this one’s evolution cautiously if I were planning to cellar any.”
David Schildknecht – Vinous 91 points ““There isn’t much [village-level] Dhroner this year,” explains Adam, “because some of these vines were in bad shape” after trying to fight off peronospora incursions from neighbors’ parcels. As with this year’s generic bottling, residual sugar near the upper end of what is permitted for legal Trockenheit supports the succulent fruit while engendering no impression of outright sweetness; but an older age of vines and 50% share of cask make themselves felt here in greater richness and an almost creamy palate impression. Persian and muskmelons mingle with winter squash on the nose, reconvening for a luscious, subtly musky and earthy palate performance, but – again as in the corresponding Gutsriesling – an influx of citrus lends welcome brightness, guaranteeing that the buoyant, generously juicy finish delivers ample refreshment. Neither does this want for appropriately stony underpinnings or a saliva-liberating hint of salinity.”
David Schildknecht – Vinous 92 points “Issuing as usual from 70-year-old vines on a parcel shared with Julian Haart (and not too far removed from the latter’s Schubertslay), when I tasted this at the end of July 2017 it was far less forthcoming let alone lusciously fruity than its two dry single-vineyard siblings, a condition that Adam characterized as “typical Piesporter reticence at this stage.” Pungent scents of grapefruit and green herbs are nearly overtaken on the nose by intimations of crushed stone and sea breeze that translate into intense, mouthwatering mineral manifestations on a palate of chewy extract-richness, firm beneath its polished, faintly waxy surface. A hint of almond cream lends welcome allure to a seriously sustained finish somehow not in the least weighed down by the wine’s 12% alcohol.”
David Schildknecht – Vinous 91 points “From the lowest of the Häs’chen’s terraces, where there is much more fine particulate matter, this needed to be picked not long after the corresponding Goldtröpfchen, but still had already reached 82 Oechsle, higher than the fruit that informed either of Adam’s other Kabinetts. In apparent testimony to a distinctive site-specific character, smoky, stony, ashen and nutty notes inflect pear and white peach fruit on the nose, though somewhat less so on the palate of this delicate, pure-fruited libation. The feel is silken and the lusciously fruity finish is consummately refreshing, offering unapologetic but adeptly integrated sweetness as well as a mouthwatering lick of salt.”
David Schildknecht – Vinous 91 points “Ripe pear and apple dominate on the nose as well as on a silken, buoyant palate, supported by subtle sweetness. Mouthwatering salinity and transparency to crystalline stony nuances give the long, refreshingly juicy finish a fascinating and delightful sense of shimmer.”
David Schildknecht – Vinous 90 points “A glossy, glycerol-rich palate features sappy concentration of ripe pear and apple. A scent of honeysuckle persists inner-mouth. The finish is impressively sustained, refreshingly juicy and mouthwateringly salt-tinged.”
David Schildknecht – Vinous 92 points “Musky, sweaty notes mingle with scents of ripe pear, white peach, decadent freesia and lily. The palate impression is lusciously fruity, subtly sweet, faintly creamy and extremely delicate – perfectly suited to the prominence of inner-mouth perfume. The finish features striking lift along with inhalative flavor retention. (Breathing in and out after spitting – or swallowing – it’s almost as if the wine hadn’t left your mouth.)”
Wwe Dr. H. Thanisch Bernkasteler Doctor Riesling Spatlese, Mosel 2016 750ML ($59.95) $49 pre-arrival special
David Schildknecht – Vinous 92 points “A product of picking on three different days, this “regular” Doctor Spätlese bottling (there are two others from Thanisch in 2016) leads with alkaline, saline scents of sea breeze such as I can’t recall before from this site. With that comes a greenhouse-like allusion to flowering and leafing things, as well as intimations of the fresh apple, pear, and honeydew melon that dominate on the glossy palate. This is startlingly cool and northerly-fruited in personality for a Doctor Spätlese, which complements the sense of delicacy delivered on a lingering finish transparent to alkaline and stony nuances. And in enjoying it, I didn’t once think about sweetness, because its presence is modest and entirely supportive.”
David Schildknecht – Vinous 90 points “Picked from October 17 to 19, this bottling reflects the characteristic ripeness of Juffer-Sonnenuhr as well as relatively early noble rot. Muskmelon, peach and mango are laced with rowan and almond extract on an impressively heady nose. The extremely ripe fruits reconvene on a sumptuously creamy, glycerol-rich palate, with peach kernel piquancy adding welcome counterpoint and pushback to the wine’s prominent sweetness. While lusciously long, this finishes less brightly than the corresponding Juffer and without its mineral savor.”
David Schildknecht – Vinous 91 points “Originating in the Haags’ prime parcel of Bürgerslay, this delivers a headily ripe, tropical nose of mango, muskmelon and peach. Hints of almond turn into suggestions of marzipan on a creamy and lusciously fruited palate, whose tropicality is nicely cut by tangy and piquant suggestions of peach near the pit. Fresh lime adds welcome brightness and a pinch of salt lends saliva-inducement to a lingering finish. Picking here was relatively early – October 18. Markus Haag said that these vines being trained to wires, rather than in the old single-post style still prevalent in his vineyards, is one reason their fruit tends to ripen more rapidly than elsewhere in the Juffer.”
David Schildknecht – Vinous “Fresh lime, white peach and apple are incisively tinged with fresh ginger on the nose and on a silken, glycerol-rich palate, displaying textural allure that is regrettably rare among the Willi Haag 2016s. But that sense of richness has not come at the expense of refreshing primary juiciness. Peach kernel and almond lend bittersweet counterpoint, fresh ginger invigoration and a touch of salinity saliva-inducement to a lingering finish. There is a faintly dank, earthy note hiding out there, but it is, for now at least, not upsetting. “If there was any botrytis here, it was minimal,” noted Markus Haag, a remark by implication revealing of how widespread it was for him in 2016, depriving some wines of edge, clarity and brightness that they might otherwise have possessed.”
David Schildknecht – Vinous “Penetrating scents of lemon and grapefruit laced with woodruff and wintergreen usher in a palate unusually citric and coolingly herbal when compared with the Willi Haag 2016s from Brauneberg or Veldenz. But given that midpalate citricity, I’m surprised at a finish that proves rather sedate and only modest in length. Still, it offers admirable refreshment and a hint of counterpoint by way of stony impingement. Last year’s more exciting inaugural bottling from this famous site was also a Kabinett. Hopefully we’ll soon get to experience a Willi Haag Goldtröpfchen Spätlese.”
David Schildknecht – Vinous 91 points “A gorgeous nose offers rowan, almond extract, ripe white peach, honeydew melon and quince. The glycerol-slicked palate offers a similarly colorful array of flavors. And for a wine obviously marked by botrytis, this finishes with unexpected clarity and abundance of fresh fruit juiciness (aided by an influx of grapefruit) to accompany its honeyed undertone and heady inner-mouth perfume. The overall effect is irresistibly luscious. This fermented until February, long by estate standards, which seems to have been all to the good.”
David Schildknecht – Vinous “Mirabelle, muskmelon and pineapple inform the nose and a juicy yet creamy, subtly glossy palate, on which an appealing slick of quince jelly points to the influence of botrytis. The finish here is lusciously sustained albeit rather sedate, lacking in non-fruit nuances and dominantly sweet.”
Dupeuble Pere et Fils Beaujolais Nouveau, Beaujolais 2017 1.5L ($49.95) Was $36, Now $26, 11 magnums in stock now
Importer note “Tradition runs deep in the family, but each generation has also managed to add something new, including increasing the property. Today it is comprised of one hundred hectares, about forty percent of which is consecrated to vineyards. Strong advocates of the lutte raisonnée approach to vineyard work, they tend their vines without the use of any chemicals or synthetic fertilizers. The vineyards, planted primarily to Gamay, face Southeast, South, and Southwest, and about two thirds of the property is on granite-based soil. The grapes are harvested manually and vinified completely without SO2. The wines are not chaptalized, filtered, or degassed and only natural yeasts are used for the fermentation. The wines of Dupeuble represent some of the best values in the Beaujolais today and are widely regarded for their very high quality and eminently reasonable price.”
The average price for the 750ml is $16
Arriving ETA October:
Domaine de la Janasse Chateauneuf-du-Pape Cuvee Chaupin, Rhone 2016 750ML ($119.95) $99 pre-arrival special
Jeb Dunnuck 97-100 points “Made with close to 50% stems (the highest in a while) and brought up in foudre and demi-muids (20% new), the 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Chaupin sports deep ruby/purple color as well as sensational notes of kirsch liqueur, black raspberries, crushed flowers, crushed rocks, and incense. Just a huge, rich, unctuous wine, it offers everything you could want from Grenache and is certainly going to challenge the 2007 and 2010 as the greatest expression of this terroir to date.”
Jeb Dunnuck 98-100 points “Incorporating 8% Mourvèdre, 12% Syrah and 5% other permitted variety, 60% destemmed, the 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Vieilles Vignes sports a deep, inky color as well as sensational notes of black currants, smoked meats, earth and crushed rocks. Deep, rich, unctuous and decadent, with huge extract and richness, yet never over the top or overripe, it’s a killer wine that’s going to flirt with perfection on release.”
Jeb Dunnuck 94-96 points “Incorporating 10% Syrah and 15% Mourvèdre, the Grenache-dominated 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape (there’s a touch of Cinsault) sports a saturated ruby/purple color. It shows hints of new oak in its black raspberries, blackberry, cured meats, crushed violets and spice-driven aromatics. This gives way to a rich, incredibly concentrated base cuvée that could easily be mistaken for the Vieille Vignes from another good year. Polished, concentrated and young, it’s going to need bottle age.”
Clos Saint Jean Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Rhone 2016 750ML ($49.95) $39 pre-arrival special
Jeb Dunnuck 92-94 points “Leading off the 2016s, the 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape is noticeably darker than any of the 2015s and offers terrific blackcurrants, blackberries, smoked meats and roasted garrigue aromas and flavors. It’s full-bodied, ripe and undeniably sexy, with gorgeous purity of fruit.”
Jeb Dunnuck 97-99 points “The 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Combe des Fous is the classic blend of mostly Grenache mixed with a small amount of Syrah and Vaccarèse. It’s a huge, unctuous effort that packs an incredible amount of blackcurrants, garrigue, pepper and dried flowers into its balanced, elegant, layered personality. It picks up a charcuterie meatiness with time in the glass, as well as the telltale melted licorice characteristic of perfectly ripe Grenache. Count me as a fan and this heavenly juice shouldn’t be missed by any Rhône lover.”
Jeb Dunnuck 98-100 points “A bigger, richer, more powerful wine, the 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Deus Ex Machina offers a port-like bouquet of melted licorice, ground pepper, cured meats and scorched earth. It literally made my heart rate increase. From 60% Grenache and 40% Mourvèdre brought up all in demi-muid, it’s going to be over the top for some, yet is an incredible wine that could come from nowhere else. Bravo!”
Jeb Dunnuck 97-100 points “Vincent told me that they harvested very late for the 2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Sanctus Sanctorum, yet there’s absolutely no sense of overripeness or heaviness, and this beauty has everything you could want. Offering a profound nose of blackberries, blueberries, graphite, lead pencil, scorched earth and even a hint of spring flowers, it hits the palate with incredible density and richness that carries an absurd amount of fruit, ripe tannin and a finish that won’t quit. Give this undeniable blockbuster 3-4 years and enjoy over the following 20.”
Thanks for reading!