Sunday Night Newsletter 5-1-2022

Oregon

Haden Fig Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley 2020 750ML ($21.95) $20.90 special, 12 bottles in stock now
Winery note “This is our first version of a Pinot Gris white wine in quite some time! Like the rest of this vintage’s productions, we made considerably less wine. Also similar is the richness of the vintage owing to the concentration of fruit and the sure imprint of the year. It is marked by its vintage and is similar to the pinot gris imported from Alsace — this is a textured, aromatically-driven wine.”

2022 winery library release!
Haden Fig Cancilla Vineyard Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley 2014 750ML ($59.95) $49 special, 12 bottles in stock now
Wine Spectator 90 points “Bright and zingy, featuring crisp tannins and lively acidity to support raspberry and cream notes and a hint of mint in the aroma and flavor profile, dancing deftly on the finish.”
Winery note “With its elevation in the northern Patton valley near Gaston, Cancilla is special. Cool, late-ripening fruit from Ken’s organic, low-yield vineyard contributes to the structure of Haden Fig’s signature Willamette Valley Pinot Noir as well as our Cancilla Vineyard designate Pinot. As it always has. And as I hope it always will.”

Staff pick!
Et Fille Maresh Vineyard Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills 2018 750ML ($69.95) $55 special, 24 bottles in stock now
Josh Raynolds-Vinous 94 points “Dark magenta. A highly perfumed bouquet evokes ripe red berries, baking spices and rose oil, and a smoky nuance builds in the glass. Silken-textured, expansive black raspberry, bitter cherry, mocha and floral pastille flavors show impressive depth as well as energy and take a sweeter turn with air. Finishes juicy, focused and very long, with lingering spiciness and pliant, even tannins that add subtle closing grip. 33% new French oak.”

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Lingua Franca has made quite the name for itself in a very short period of time and has spared no expense in pursuit of quality. Founded by the legendary sommelier Larry Stone, the winery has become emblematic of the Willamette Valley’s exceptional quality. The Estate wines hail from the heart of the Eola-Amity hills (and right next to famed sites like Seven Springs).  Like its neighbors, the vineyard shows classic Eola-Amity structure, perfume and concentration. Much like their neighboring estates the wines feature long aging trajectories, particularly in cooler vintages like 2019 with the appellation being a mainstay in any collector’s cellar. 

Lingua Franca Mimi’s Mind Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills 2019 750ML ($99.95) $79 special, 30 bottles in stock now
Josh Raynolds-Vinous 97 points “Vivid ruby-red. Highly perfumed aromas of ripe red and dark fruits, incense and potpourri, along with an exotic spice nuance and a hint of smoky minerality. Palate-staining black raspberry, cherry and fruitcake flavors show sharp definition and deepen steadily as the wine stretches out. Deftly plays richness off elegance and finishes impressively long and chewy, with repeating cherry and floral character and building tannins adding final grip. 8% whole clusters and 26% new French oak.”

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The next best price is $89.95

Lingua Franca ‘The Plow’ Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley 2019 750ML ($69.95) $49 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Josh Raynolds 95 points “Deep magenta. Expansive red and dark berry and floral aromas are complemented by hints of star anise, sassafras and cola. Sappy, seamless and fleshy on the palate, offering intense black raspberry, cherry cola, candied lavender and mocha flavors underscored by a vein of smoky minerality. Seductive in character, finishing with powerful thrust and supple tannins that meld smoothly with the sappy, persistent fruit.”
Wine & Spirits 95 points “Lingua Franca’s The Plow is taken from blocks 1 and 2 at the top of Larry Stone’s estate vineyard, set on relatively shallow Gelderman and not so shallow Jory soils. Those volcanics yield a wine of pure velvet, firmly planted but silky and sensuous in the mouth. This leads with scents of horhound, sassafras, red and black cherry, a hint of plum and tobacco, all of it firmly expressed, growing more layered and complex over the course of several days. Give it time in the cellar to develop before serving with something substantial, like roast beef.”

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Lingua Franca Tongue’n Cheek Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills 2018 750ML ($69.95) $49 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Wine & Spirits 94 points “Tongue ’n Cheek is blended from two blocks with shallow soil at the estate’s hilltop, on a soil series known as Gelderman (drawn from Jory with additional basalt gravels). Of the four Lingua Franca pinots in 2018, this might be the tightest, with the most bound tension and reserved intensity. While it’s still years from peak expression, there is a propulsive energy and power that opens the dark fruit to a hint of red-tinged, cranberry brightness. Give it time. —P.J.C.”
Josh Raynolds-Vinous 93 points “Deep garnet. Expansive cherry and red currant scents, along with hints of botanical herbs and candied flowers. Juicy and penetrating in the mouth, offering black raspberry and bitter cherry flavors that take a sweeter turn through the back half. Finishes very long and subtly chewy, with repeating florality and sneaky, framing tannins. All destemmed fruit; 20% new French oak.”
Wine Enthusiast 93 points “A mix of Pommard and Calera clones, this is a blend that attempts to forge a common ground between sweetly spicy pie-cherry fruit and the more herbal, tannic, austere nature of the Calera fruit. All the parts are there to build a complete and interesting wine. Just add some bottle age—another two or three years at least. -Paul Gregutt”

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France – Champagne

Pol Roger Vintage Brut, Champagne 2013 750ML ($119.95) $99 special, 29 bottles in stock now
Wine Enthusiast 96 points “Very much in the ripe Pol Roger style, this Champagne is just approaching maturity. With its balance of crisp minerality and richness, it is a great wine from a medium-quality vintage. Although the wine is ready to drink, its style says that it will age further and could be enjoyed when it has become more toasty from 2022. -Roger Voss”
William Kelley-Wine Advocate 94 points “Pol Roger’s just-released 2013 Brut Vintage is a beautifully chiseled, incisive wine that will appeal immensely to purists. Unwinding in the glass with scents of citrus zest, white flowers, crushed chalk and hints of fresh sourdoughs, it’s medium to full-bodied, racy and precise, with a nicely concentrated and tightly wound core, tangy acids and an elegant pinpoint mousse. After the rich, muscular 2012 vintage, the 2013 represents quite a contrast; I’m not sure we’ll see its stylistic like again for some time, so readers with classically inclined palates will want to stock up—advice I’ll be following myself.”

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The average price is $133

France – Burgundy

Domaine Rapet Pere et Fils Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2019 750ML ($199.95) $169 special, 4 bottles in stock now
William Kelley-Wine Advocate 94+ points “The 2019 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is performing very well, mingling notes of crisp orchard fruit and orange oil with hints of nutmeg, toasted almonds, white flowers and clear honey. Full-bodied, layered and concentrated, it’s muscular and multidimensional, with tangy acids and a taut, chiseled profile that’s built for the cellar.”

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Domaine Rapet Pere et Fils Sous Fretille, Pernand-Vergelesses Premier Cru 2019 750ML ($79.95) $69 special, 12 bottles in stock now
William Kelley-Wine Advocate 93 points “Aromas of pear, citrus oil, crushed chalk and white flowers introduce the 2019 Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru Sous Frétille, a medium to full-bodied, layered and concentrated wine with incisive acids and fine depth at the core. As ever, it’s the insider’s choice chez Rapet, punching above its weight in terms of aging potential and incipient complexity.”

Domaine Rapet Pere et Fils Pernand-Vergelesses Les Belles Filles 2019 750ML ($54.95) $44 special, 12 bottles in stock now
William Kelley-Wine Advocate 89 points “The 2019 Pernand-Vergelesses Les Belles Filles opens in the glass with notes of sweet berry fruit, cherries and cassis, complemented by an elegant top note of orange rind. Medium-bodied, melting and elegantly gourmand, it’s bright and charming, concluding with a perfumed finish.”

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Often confused with the 1er Cru “Aux Fourneaux,” this is a single-parcel village-level wine
Domaine Rapet Pere et Fils Savigny-les-Beaune “Aux Fournaux” 2019 750ML ($54.95) $44 special, 12 bottles in stock now
William Kelley-Wine Advocate 88+ points “Offering up scents of plums, blackcurrants, peonies and spices, the 2019 Savigny-lès-Beaune [Aux Fournaux] is medium to full-bodied, with a fleshy core of fruit and youthfully chalky structuring tannins. It’s a touch more rustic than the refined Pernand-Vergelesses Belles Filles and Chorey-lès-Beaune that preceded it.”

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Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin Vaulorent, Chablis Premier Cru 2015 750ML ($49.95) $39 special, 18 bottles in stock now
Neal Martin-Vinous 93 points “The 2015 Chablis Vaulorent 1er Cru has a very attractive bouquet of orange pith and gunflint infused with pressed yellow flowers. The poised, harmonious palate is well balanced, displaying a fine thread of acidity and just the right amount of salinity on the finish. This is a brilliant Vaulorent from Benoît Droin. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting.”

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In the heart of the Morgon appellation, fourth generation winemaker Michel Guignier produces a small amount of wine from his 60+ year old parcels. The soils here are decomposed granite and a type of schist known locally as roches pourries. The grapes are hand harvested and each parcel is individually vinified in vats on the lees after a brief semi-carbonic maceration.
 
Michel Guignier Morgon Vieilles Vignes, Beaujolais 2019 750ML ($24.95) $21.90 special, 24+ bottles in stock now
Case-6 Michel Guignier Morgon Vieilles Vignes, Beaujolais 2019 750ML ($149.95) $119 special (that’s only $19.83/bottle!)
James Suckling 95 points “So deep and subtle, but also bright and floral on the nose, it takes your breath away! Stunning energy on the racy, pristine palate, the considerable power not tied down by a gram of fat, lifting you instead up towards the heavens. Only just beginning to open up. Drinkable now, but better from 2022.”
John Gilman 93 points “The old vine bottling of Morgon from Michel Guignier is made from vines in three lieux à dits, including Côte du Py, with the vines averaging sixty years of age. Monsieur Guignier’s 2019 Vieilles Vignes offers up a beautifully bright and sappy nose of black cherries, sweet dark berries, bonfire, pigeon, dark soil tones, a touch of espresso and a lovely topnote of thyme. On the palate the wine is bright, full and complex, with a good core of fruit, fine soil undertow, moderate, buried tannins and lovely length and grip on the beautifully balanced finish. This is a proper young bottle of Morgon that could do with a bit of bottle age to let those backend tannins start to completely soften up, but the wine is certainly approachable out of the blocks and plenty of folks are going to end up drinking their bottles on the early side, despite the excellent potential for aging in evidence here. Fine juice. 2023-2050+.”

France – Bordeaux

Chateau Rauzan-Segla, Margaux 2012 750ML ($149.95) $119 special, 3 bottles in stock now
Jeb Dunnuck 95+ points “The brilliant 2012 Rauzan-Ségla is unquestionably one of the successes in the Médoc in 2012. Its still youthful ruby/purple color is followed by impressive notes of blackcurrants, black cherries, cedar, graphite, and some earthy, underbrush-like nuances. Medium to full-bodied, concentrated, and balanced, it builds with time in the glass and has plenty of tannins as well as length. While it offers pleasure today, it’s going to benefit from another 4-5 years of bottle age, and it should be long-lived.”
Decanter 95 points (in 2018) “Firm, dark fruits highlight this wine’s extreme youth and great quality. It needs time, but the construction of this wine is excellent, full of fresh, frank fruit and a confident tannic backbone that’s powerful but pulls itself back before the finish to allow the fruit to take centre stage. Stands out in the line up, and develops in the glass.” 
Lisa Perrotti-Brown, Wine Advocate 94 points (in 2020) “Deep garnet in color, the 2012 Rauzan-Ségla reveals evolving notions of new leather, cigar box and stewed tea over a core of blackcurrant cordial, plum preserves and blueberry compote with touches of cumin seed and fenugreek. Medium-bodied, the palate has a lot of spritely zip with red fruit accents lifting the mature savory and spice notes, framed by grainy tannins, finishing with great tension.”
Wine Enthusiast 94 points “Cellar Selection. This firmly structured, beautifully crafted wine has a solid backdrop of tannins and plenty of concentration. Beyond that, it is already well balanced, bringing together its dark texture and blackberry fruit flavors with generous acidity. It needs to age, drink from 2020. -Roger Voss”

Chateau Larcis Ducasse, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 2009 750ML ($179.95) $138 special, 11 bottles in stock now
Neal Martin-Vinous 96 points “[Reviewed Mar 2019] The 2009 Larcis-Ducasse displays engaging and complex, slightly earthy aromas on the nose: red fruit mixed with roses and melted tar. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, well judged acidity. Velvety and smooth in texture with a judicious sprinkling of spice towards the finish that fans out with some style. This is an excellent Saint-Émilion that should age well over the next couple of decades. Easily the best bottle that I have tasted, this seems to show better than Beauséjour Duffau-Lagarrosse. Tasted blind at Farr Vintners’ 2009 Bordeaux tasting.”
Jeb Dunnuck 96 points “Showing better than a previous bottle, the 2009 Larcis Ducasse is just now starting to come into its own, offering terrific, full-bodied aromas and flavors of blackcurrants, licorice, espresso, and leafy herbs. This deep, rich, full-bodied effort has absorbed its oak élevage beautifully, has a layered, unctuous texture, and plenty of sweet tannin. It’s a heavenly Saint Emilion to enjoy over the coming 15+ years.”
Lisa Perrotti-Brown, Wine Advocate 95 points “[Reviewed Mar 2019] The deep garnet colored 2009 Larcis Ducasse sashays out of the glass with compelling scents of kirsch, dried roses, Black Forest cake and crème de cassis with hints of black tea, cigar box and menthol. Medium to full-bodied, the palate is tautly structured with ripe, grainy tannins and lovely freshness, finishing long and perfumed.”
Decanter 95 points “This has rich, sexy layers with powerful black pepper, olive, liquorice notes and crushed berry fruits. This is the most ‘Right Bank’ of the vertical, but still with the mouthwatering salinity and foot-on-the-break feel, giving a clear expression of the two sides of Larcis – clay power with limestone austerity. Brilliant. 55% new oak was used. Drinking Window 2019 – 2044.”

Chateau d’Issan, Margaux 2018 750ML ($99.95) $89 special, 11 bottles in stock now
Decanter 96 points “This is a vibrant ruby colour, with floral aromatics that are even more evident on the nose here than with the second wine, Blason. This is not always the case during En Primeur tastings, when it’s the second wines that tend to be a little more open, but it’s a feature of the 2018 vintage. This is a brilliant Issan with richness and poise joined by a delicate acidity that pulls the fruit along. The tannins are deceptive, as they are supple and appealing, but the density and power builds over the palate and clearly indicates long ageing. A wine that feels like it’s rooted in its appellation. 50% new oak. 40hl/ha yield, with 53% of production going into this wine, higher than in both 2017 and 2016.”
James Suckling 95-96 points “The cashmere texture of the tannins is wonderful in this. They are ripe and precise. Dense at the same time, giving a slow drive and a long finish. Full-bodied with dark and pretty fruit. Persistent finish.”
Wine Advocate 94-96 points “The 2018 D’Issan is composed of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot, aging in 50% new and 50% second year barrels for an estimated 18 months. With 13.97% alcohol and a deep garnet-purple color, it features baked berries, warm cherries and cassis with spice box and fragrant earth plus tea hints. Medium to full-bodied, it has a great core of muscular fruit with firm, fine-grained tannins, with nice freshness, finishing layered with mineral notions.”


France – Rhone

Paul Jaboulet Aine Chevalier de Sterimberg Hermitage Blanc 2018 750ML ($79.95) $69 special, 12 bottles in stock now
Josh Raynolds 94 points “Diaphanous gold. Expressive, mineral-tinged orchard and pit fruits on the highly perfumed nose, with floral and lemon curd nuances building in the glass. Shows very good depth as well as energy to the sappy, mineral-accented tangerine, Anjou pear and honey flavors, which steadily tighten up through the midpalate. The floral element comes back on the lively, focused finish, sweetened by a discreet honey accent.”
James Suckling 94 points “This is two-thirds marsanne and one-third roussanne and it sees some demi-muid elevage. Very fresh, peach and pear aromas with a focused, ripe and juicy palate that wields glycerol and smooth fruit flesh. Long finish with pears, white peaches and melon. Very even. Drink or hold.”

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France – Loire

“Given the crystalline purity of [Gerard Boulay’s] Sauvignon Blancs, he has become one of my favorite producers of the central Loire. If you want to know what true Sancerre tastes like, try one of his single-vineyard bottlings. It does not come any better!” – Joel Payne, Vinous

Gerard Boulay Sancerre Chavignol 2020 750ML ($39.95) $33 special, 30 bottles in stock now
Importer note “Blend of young vine parcels on kimmeridgian slopes in the village of Chavignol.”

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Gerard Boulay Sancerre Clos de Beaujeu 2020 750ML ($79.95) $51.90 special, 12 bottles in stock now
Importer note “One of Chavignol’s most historic vineyards, Boulay’s parcel lies within the original Clos of the vineyard, established by the monks of Beaujeu in the Middle Ages. The walls of the Clos are no longer standing as they were originally built from clay and hay, and did not withstand the test of time. Boulay farms a 0.75 hectares plot of 30- to 60-year old vins where the soils are pebbly, lime-rich and strewn with fossils. Along with the 60% gradient for much of the vineyard, the rocky soils make this parcel very difficult to farm. Clos de Beaujeu is the source of some of Boulay’s deepest, most structured wines and savory, spicy examples of Chavignol that are built to last.”

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Gerard Boulay Sancerre La Cote 2020 750ML ($79.95) $59 special, 21 bottles in stock now
Importer note “Boulay’s parcel in “La Grande Côte,” which is partially owned and partically rented, is one of three designated Crus of Chavignol and is reputed for producing wines of incredible precision. Vintage 2010 was the inaugural release.”

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Gerard Boulay Sancerre Les Monts Damnes 2020 750ML ($79.95) $55 special, 18 bottles in stock now
Importer note “Boulay began farming the steeply sloped Mont Damnés vineyard in 1982. His plot has an average vine age of 45 years. Mont Damnés’ reflective soils and south-facing exposition make it one of Chavignol’s warmest sites.”

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Spain

CVNE CUNE ‘Imperial’ Gran Reserva, Rioja DOCa 2014 750ML ($99.95) $84.50 special, 18 bottles in stock now
Josh Raynolds-Vinous 94 points “Shimmering ruby-red. An intensely perfumed nose displays cherry cola, cassis, licorice and smoky oak; floral and vanilla qualities emerge in the glass. Juicy, penetrating red and dark fruit flavors are given spine by a core of tangy acidity, and bitter chocolate, candied rose and spicecake nuances develop with air. Gently gripping tannins add shape to an impressively long, incisive finish that leaves more vanilla and cherry notes behind. Raised for 22 months in a combination of French and American oak barrels.”
Luis Guttierez-Wine Advocate 94 points “No 2013 was produced, as it was a very challenging year in Haro. So, from the 2012 I tasted last time, we jumped to the 2014 Imperial Gran Reserva, an icon among classical Rioja. The grapes for this blend of 85% Tempranillo, 10% Graciano and 5% Mazuelo were picked during the first half of October at a low 13.5% alcohol and were fermented in small oak vats followed by malolactic in concrete and two years in barrel. The bottles are kept for at least 36 months before they are released. As the Imperial Reserva, the style of this wine has to be preserved (they can innovate in the new Asúa range). There is a developed and subtle nose reminiscent of petrol (is it mineral?), hints of iodine and sweet spices. The palate is powerful and still a little tannic, as the wine was released even earlier because they skipped one vintage. Serious, austere, faithful to its character. 50,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in January 2017.”

Back by popular demand!
CVNE CUNE Vina Real Crianza, Rioja DOCa 2017 750ML ($19.95) $14.50 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Case-12 CVNE CUNE Vina Real Crianza, Rioja DOCa 2017 750ML ($219.95) $166 special (that’s only $13.83/bottle!) ***in-store pick up only***
James Suckling 93 points “A Rioja with plum, blackberry, black truffle and hints of chocolate. Some walnut, too. It’s medium-to full-bodied with firm, chewy tannins and a flavorful finish. Drink or hold.”
Luis Gutierrez-Wine Advocate 91+ points “The popular red 2017 Viña Real Crianza is a gastronomical blend produced with grapes from Rioja Alavesa: 90% Tempranillo and the rest Garnacha, Mazuelo and Graciano fermented in stainless steel and matured in oak barrels for 13 to 14 months, during which time it was racked every five to six months. The first thing that is going to catch your attention is the new label, which takes things from the past but put in a new, more modern style, which also reflects what the wine is like. The Viña Real range (white, rosé and Reserva) is gradually going to adopt this same label but with the letters in different colors. The second thing that I also loved is the Garnacha character that clearly comes through, even if it represents a small percentage in the final blend (Garnacha and Graciano like heat and do well in warmer years). The oak is nicely folded and integrated into the fruit. Very enjoyable and fresh, in line with what consumers expect but with an extra spark of red fruit that is quite remarkable for the 2017 vintage. The palate is textured, fine and polished, with very fine tannins and high drinkability. I think this is one of the Crianzas that I have enjoyed the most in recent times. I love it. Remarkable for a year like 2017.”
Wine Enthusiast 91 points “Editor’s Choice. Full berry and plum aromas are complete as they lead to a racy palate with lively acidity and spirit. Cherry, plum and a dusting of cocoa are lead players on the flavor profile, while this crianza finishes long and fresh. This is everything you want from Rioja crianza. -Michael Schachner”

R. Lopez de Heredia Vina Bosconia Reserva, Rioja DOCa 2009 750ML ($49.95) $37.50 special, 23 bottles in stock now
James Suckling 96 points “Very ripe still, with crushed berry and light jam. Vanilla undertones to the fruit. Turns to flowers, both fresh and dried. Complex cedar, tobacco and walnut. It’s full-bodied with round, soft tannins and a flavorful finish. Richer than past vintages, but turns linear and refined at the finish. Drink now.”
Luis Gutierrez-Wine Advocate 92 points “The 2009 Viña Bosconia Reserva shows the ripeness of the very warm and dry year. It’s structured and concentrated, quite different from the finesse of the Tondonia. Bosconia has always been more rustic and powerful and Tondonia all about finesse and nuance. There are dark plums and baking spices, a touch of singed leather, the fruit very strong to counterbalance the aging in barrel. This is a powerful Bosconia. 80,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in May 2016.”
Wine & Spirits 92 points “Bosconia is 80 percent tempranillo, fleshed out with garnacha, graciano and mazuelo, a smooth, chocolatey Rioja in 2009 with plump blueberry, plum and rosehip flavors. It’s riper and a little rustic, as compared to the 2009 Tondonia, with overtones of anise and peach. For roast squab with a cranberry stuffing.”

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