September 30, 2013
Dealicious Wines/Clean Sweep/Clear The Decks
Solid, Some Amazing, Under $10:
Taz Chardonnay Santa Barbara 2008 ($17.95) $6.60 special
Wine Enthusiast 90 points “With this 2008, Taz brings to the table a wonderful Chardonnay at a great price. It’s dry and crisply acidic, with bright, perky flavors of oranges, peaches, Meyer lemons and smoky vanilla. Really nice and clean, a lovely wine and a good restaurant by-the-glass selection.”
Penfolds Thomas Hyland Shiraz 2010 ($17.95) $9.90 special
Wine Advocate 90 points “The 2010 Thomas Hyland Shiraz displays a deep garnet-purple color and aromas of ripe blackberry and cherry preserves plus hints of bacon, pepper, tree bark and cedar. Concentrated and taut on the medium-bodied palate, it has crisp acidity and a medium level of grainy tannins, finishing long. Drink it now to 2019.”
Penfolds Koonunga Hills Shiraz-Cabernet 2009 ($11.95) $7.75 special
Stephen Tanzer 88 points “(73% shiraz and 27% cabernet sauvignon): Deep ruby. Cherry, licorice and dark cola on the nose. Bitter cherry and mint flavors pick up smoky and peppery qualities in the middle palate and show good depth and power. Finishes with good cut and lingering notes of cherry pit and dark chocolate. Pretty serious for an entry-level wine; I’ve had decade-old versions of this wine that were delicious and I suspect that this will age nicely as well.”
Domaine Bouges Touraine Cot Les Cots Haut 2007 ($14.95) $9.90 special
Wine Advocate 88 points “The Bouges 2007 Touraine Cot (Malbec) Les Cots Hauts offers what has become known as its characteristic and striking juxtaposition between a deep purple color and nose redolent of fresh black fruits on the one hand and a relatively lightweight, juicy, tart, refreshing- in short, white wine-like- palate impression of fresh berries, tinged with salt, chalk, and iodine. Hints of walnut, cardamom, dried kelp, and white pepper all add further interest to this delightful and versatile red.”
Manoir de la Tete Saumur Rouge “Bagatelle” 2009 ($17.95) $9.90 special
Decanter Magazine “Recommended-Lifted floral notes, red cherry, forest fruit and pencil shavings. Smooth but present tannins. Juicy, ripe, plump mid-palate with a nice spiciness. Drink 2011-15”
Joel Rochette Regnie Cuvee des Braves 2007 ($19.95) $9.90 special
Josh Raynolds 89 points “Lurid violet. Expressive scents of wild strawberry, raspberry, rose and minerals. Very fresh on the palate, offering sweet red berry preserve flavors and a strong mineral undertone. Gains weight and a deeper dark berry personality with air and finishes with very good smoky persistence.”
Joel Rochette Brouilly Pisse Vieille 2007 ($19.95) $9.90 special
Josh Raynolds 89 points “Bright red. Fresh strawberry and raspberry on the nose, with notes of flowers and Asian spices gaining strength with air. Light, juicy and incisive, offering sweet red and dark berry flavors, with a zesty blood orange note adding bitterness and vivacity to the nicely persistent and focused finish. Quintessential Beaujolais that will go with all kinds of lighter, full-flavored foods.”
Argiolas Serra Lori Rosato Sardinia 2011 ($17.95) $9.90 special
Wine Advocate 90 points “The 2011 Serra Lori Rosato is a standout among this year’s crop of rosés from Italy. Red berries, tobacco, mint, pomegranate and licorice are some of the many nuances that emerge from the glass in this texturally finessed, exotic wine. In 2011 the Serra Lori is beguiling and totally beautiful. The Serra Lori is Cannonau, Monica, Carignano, Bovale Sardo, all indigenous Sardinian varieties.”
Antonio Galloni 89 points “The 2007 Barbera d’Asti L’Avvocata is just plain delicious. This cask-aged Barbera impresses for the clarity and fragrance of its ripe fruit as well as for its impeccable balance. It is a gem, especially at this price.”
Vignalta Pinot Bianco Colli Eugenae Veneto 2007 ($14.95) $7.70 special
Viscous white peach, raspberry, and creamy cashew define this wine.Bodegas Nisia Rueda Verdejo 2011 ($14.95) $9.90 special
Robert Parker 91 points
“The 2011 Nisia is made from 100% old vine Verdejo (the youngest vines were planted in 1942, and others are nearly 100 years of age). The wine is aged sur-lie, and fermented in both stainless steel and large format French oak. It is undeniably one of the finest Verdejos I have ever tasted. Yields were less than three tons of fruit per hectare, which is noticeable in the wine’s old vine intensity. Notions of caramelized white citrus and tropical fruit blossoms along with a naked, natural texture as well as finish make for a terrific dry white with loads of personality and complexity. This beauty sells for an absurdly low price”
Bodegas Nekeas El Chaparral Garnacha Old Vines 2011 ($14.95) $9.90 special
Josh Raynolds 91 points “(malo in small French oak, followed by five months of aging on its lees): Brilliant ruby. Highly perfumed, exotic aromas of black and blue fruits, vanilla and incense, with a floral overtone. Lush, expansive blackberry and boysenberry flavors stain the palate, picking up a smoky nuance with air. Velvety and broad but lively too, finishing with impressive breadth spicy persistence for its price range. All of these wines are ridiculous values, as they have been in most recent vintages.”
Bodegas Riojanas Rioja Crianza Puerta Vieja 2010 ($17.95) $9.90 special
Josh Raynolds 90 points “(100% tempranillo, from vines that range from 35 to 55 years of age; aged for 18 months in American oak): Bright ruby. Zesty redcurrant and cherry aromas are complicated by notes of fresh rose and blood orange. Firm, focused and juicy, with lively cherry and red berry flavors showing a refreshing bitterness. Bright and focused on the clinging finish”
Jancis Robinson “Vivid ruby. Ripe cherry and blackberry aromas are complemented by an exotic floral note. Youthfully taut and in need of air; in the glass more flesh appears, along with a sweeter dark berry compote quality. I found no obvious tannins to get in the way of the fruit. Juicy and appealing Rioja with good finishing grip and tangy cut. Definitely decant this one.”
Bodegas Borsao Vina Borgia 2012 3L bag-in-box 2012 ($21.95) $18 special (that’s $4.50 / bottle)
Josh Raynolds 88 points “(100% garnacha; all stainless steel): Bright purple. Jammy black and blue fruits on the nose and in the mouth. Plump, juicy and tannin-free, making for very easy drinkability. For the money, this really delivers, a point not missed by the numerous restaurants that are pouring this fruit bomb by the glass.”
Edging Towards Uniqueness: $10 – $20
Et Fille Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2010 ($27.95) $19 special
Josh Raynolds 90+ points “Bright red. Pungent, smoke-accented aromas of dried cherry, blood orange and candied rose. Taut and linear on entry, then fleshier and more broad in the mid-palate, offering gently sweet red fruit flavors and a hint of peppery spices. Shows very good clarity and lift on the finish, which echoes the floral and cherry notes. This nervy, incisive wine improves a lot with aeration, by the way.”
Ransom Selection Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2010 ($24.95) $17 special
Wine Advocate 90-91 points “Adding Johan Vineyard to the roster of four sites that informed this cuvee’s previous edition, the Ransom 2010 Pinot Noir Selection-tasted in a close approximation to its final assemblage-delivers downright refreshingly as well as invigoratingly tangy red currant and fraises des bois, tinged with coriander seed, nutmeg, and rose hip. Buoyant to the point of delicacy, this finishes with mouthwatering persistence and is sure on release to represent an outstanding value that can be enjoyed over at least the next half dozen years. Incidentally, given its manifest vivacity and stamina, Seestedt expected not to bottle it before July.”
Joseph Carr Chardonnay Sonoma 2011 ($17.95) $10.90 special
Wine Enthusiast 90 points “Good price for a Chardonnay this opulent. It doesn’t pull any punches, offering full-throttle pineapple, Meyer lemon, butterscotch, toast and vanilla flavors, in a creamy texture. The richness fortunately is balanced with crisp, bright acidity.”
Foxglove (Varner) Chardonnay 2011 ($17.95) $11.90 special
Wine Advocate 91 points “The 2011 Chardonnay is a beauty, as well as an absurd value. Very clean and lively, with classic Chardonnay notes of juiced apple, citrus and minerality, it is clean and focused on the palate with the richness of the variety, yet also beautiful precision and focus. Classy and well-made, without any apparent oak, it should be purchased by the case and consumed over the coming 2-3 years. Drink now-2016.”
Scholium Project Marcher Sur la Lune 2009 ($29.95) $18 special
Winery notes “(Verdelho) Barrel and Skin contact. “Rigor, definition, and subtle power. You do not taste skins or seeds– this is purely a white wine, not a pretender to the Prince– but you sense their place in the structure of the wine.”
Conundrum by Caymus Red 2010 ($24.95) $16 special
Belle Glos Meiomi Pinot Noir 2012 ($24.95) $18 special
A plush and popular pair from the Wagner Family
Domaine Chapoutier-Terlato Shiraz Malakoff 2008 ($39.95) $19 special
Wine Spectator 91 points “Lean and lithe, tangy on balance, with roasted tomato overtones to the blackberry and pepper flavors, lingering on the polished finish. Tannins slide in on the finish. Best from 2014 through 2019.”
Veramonte Primus Red 2008 ($21.95) $14 special
Wine Spectator 90 points “A full-bodied, ripe red, mixing dark cherry, cassis and raspberry ganache notes with layers of spice, coffee bean and licorice that linger on the savory finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Carmenère and Merlot. Drink now.”
Ott Les Domaniers Rose de Provence 2011 ($21.95) $11.90 special
Josh Raynolds 88 points ” 70% grenache, 25% cinsault and 5% syrah): Light, bright orange. Musky, herb-accented aromas of tangerine, redcurrant and rhubarb, with a subtle touch of white pepper. Sappy and focused, offering slightly bitter red fruit and citrus flavors and a touch of licorice. Finishes warm and broad, with good power and lingering spiciness.”
Faiveley Mercurey Blanc Clos Rochette 2010 ($24.95) $19.90 special
Wine Spectator 91 points, Wine Enthusiast 91 points “The toast character lends a firm structure to this solid, rich wine. A spice note pairs well with the white plum and apricot fruit, and there is a sense that this needs to age for several years in order to bring out its richness and full potential.”
Faiveley Bourgogne Rouge 2010 ($21.95) $16 special
Burghound “A very pretty red berry fruit nose that evidences soft earth influence leads to very fresh and racy flavors that are still quite tight as the finish is clean though mildly tangy. This is on the lighter side.”
Jacky Janodet Moulin a Vent 2008 ($24.95) $16 special
Staff note “Aromas of dark red fruit, black pepper and black currant. Taught black cherry, raspberry and a peppery spice begin the palate, followed with mineral, fine tannins and focused acidity. After a bit of time to open it gains a bit of weight and shows more dark fruit and structure. A great example of the value in Cru Beaujolais, this is a wine that will continue to evolve and improve for years to come. I could drink this wine every day and never tire of it.”
Saint Cosme Cotes du Rhone Les Deux Albions 2011 ($24.95) $19 special
Robert Parker 92 points “More serious is the 2011 Cotes du Rhone Les Deux Albion. This cuvee always includes a small amount of white Clairette co-fermented with red grapes such as Grenache and Syrah. There is more Syrah in the 2011 than usual because it was essential for the success of this medium-bodied, deep ruby/plum/purple-colored effort. It possesses notes of spring flowers, black fruits, licorice, forest floor and spice. It is another brilliant example of this cuvee”
Domaine le Couroulu Vacqueyras Classic 2009 ($24.95) $17.70 special
Stephen Tanzer 91 points “Deep ruby. Red and dark berry aromas are complemented by Asian spices and floral oils. Energetic but deep in raspberry and blackberry flavor. Shows a refreshingly spicy quality on the finish, which clings with very good authority and length.”
Franco Serra Barolo 2007 ($29.95) $19 special
Wine Spectator 90 points “Sweet cherry and berry notes mingle with licorice, leather and spices in this appealing Barolo. Open and approachable, with harmony and finesse already.”
Casanova di Neri Rosso di Casanova 2009 ($21.95) $14 special
Antonio Galloni 88-90 points “The 2009 Rosso di Montalcino (labeled Rosso di Casanova di Neri for the US) is a beautiful, impeccably balanced wine. There is lovely transparency and elegance to the fruit in an expression of Sangiovese that offers gorgeous roundness in a mid-weight, elegant style. The finish is long, soft and caressing. Even better, this is an outstanding value.”
Alvaro Palacios Camins Priorat 2011 ($21.95) $15.70 special
Josh Raynolds 91 points “Bright purple. Aromas and flavors of ripe red berries, cola and spicecake, with a deeper note of licorice emerging with air. Lush and seamless, with very good finishing breadth and spicy persistence. Shows plenty of upfront appeal but this wine has the concentration and balance to reward at least mid-term aging.”
Descendientes de J. Palacios Bierzo Petalos 2010 ($24.95) $16 special
Josh Raynolds 91 points “(all mencia, as is the case for all of these wines, which are aged briefly in new French oak and then in older barrels before bottling): Dark ruby. Ripe red- and blackcurrant aromas are complicated by anise, cola and sexy oak spices. Soft dark berry preserve flavors gain minerality and firmness with air. Zesty cherry skin and mineral notes carry through a long, gently tannic finish.”
Elements of Greatness: $20 – $40
Betz Syrah La Serenne 2009 ($59.95) $39 special
Rhone Report 95 points “Wow, a brilliant showing by the 2009 Betz Family Syrah La Serenne and this is one stacked Syrah! All from Dick Boushey?s vineyard in Yakima Valley, this 100% Syrah has put on weight and flesh since the tasting last year and offers up thrilling aromas of blackberry liqueur, charred meats, ground pepper, mineral, and violets on the nose. This is followed by a full-bodied, dense, structured, and youthfully tight Syrah that needs another 3-4 years of bottle age to fully flesh out. It should start to hit the early stages of maturity around age 10. Impressive all around and Vin de Garde from Washington at its finest!”
Brigandat Champagne Brut Tradition NV ($39.95) $29 special
Josh Raynolds 90 points “Pale yellow. Deeply pitched aromas of floral honey, smoky lees, pear skin and toasted nuts. Broad, palate-staining pit and orchard fruit flavors are complicated by hazelnut and mineral notes, with a bitter quinine nuance on the back half. Finishes with very good cling and mineral snap, leaving a note of poached pear behind”
Josh Raynolds 90 points ” Light gold. Musky orange pith and red berries on the nose, with suave floral and spice accents adding complexity. Juicy, focused and very energetic, offering fresh citrus and red berry flavors and a hint of honeysuckle. Nuttier and more leesy on the finish, which echoes the orange and spice notes. I like this Champagne’s marriage of power and vivacity.”
Marie Courtin Champagne Extra-Brut Resonance NV (2009) ($59.95) $39 special
Antonio Galloni 92 points “The appropriately named NV (2009) Extra Brut Resonance emerges from the glass with deep layers of textured fruit. There is a pure energy and vibrancy in the 2009 that is striking. Sweet floral notes, dried pears, red berries, mint and spices are all layered into the focused, taut finish. At the same time, the warm 2009 vintage gives the Pinot Noir a level of richness that balances the non-dose style beautifully. This is a great introduction to the wines of Dominique Morneau and Marie-Courtin.”
Huber-Verdereau Volnay 2010 ($49.95) $33 special
Burghound 88 points ” A pretty mix of red and blue pinot fruit aromas exhibits plenty of earth influence that continues onto the silky and pure middle weight flavors that culminate in a moderately rustic and austere finish. This will need a few years to flesh out and add depth.”
Camille Giroud Marsannay Longerois 2010 ($39.95) $27 special
Burghound 88-91 points “A pretty, fresh and cool nose of relatively high-toned red berry fruit precedes detailed, intense and mineral-inflected middle weight flavors that possess a really lovely mouth feel. There is a fine sense of energy to the dusty, clean and linear finish that displays impeccable balance. This is really quite good.”
Cuvee Vatican Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve Sixtine 2006 ($59.95) $29 special
Wine Spectator 93 points “This is dark and reticent for now, but also pure and loaded with a big core of plum and blackberry fruit, mocha, graphite, licorice and fig cake notes. The long, velvety finish just sails along, with latent grip in reserve. Best from 2009 through 2028”
Domain Vaudieu Chateauneuf du Pape 2008 ($49.95) $33 special
Wine Spectator 93 points “Very fresh and racy, especially for the vintage, with mouthwatering mineral and shiso leaf notes pushed by bright minerality, all of which is then backed by a ripe core of crushed red and black cherry and currant fruit. The finish is long and silky. A very impressive turnaround has been made at this estate. Drink now through 2022”
Hillaire Chateauneuf du Pape Petites Pieds d’Armand 2008 ($59.95) $33 special
Wine Spectator 93 points “A very stylish, perfumy version, with alluring incense and black tea aromas giving way to a silky palate loaded with kirsch, pepper, shiso leaf and lingering plum skin notes. The long finish lets a hint of anise check in. Best from 2011 through 2022”
Selbach-Oster Riesling Spatlese 2009 ($34.95) $24 special
Wine Spectator 92 points “Racy flavors of quince, peach and spiced pear fill this vibrant white. The long finish of strudel shows hints of butter, and is lush, creamy and elegant. Drink now through 2021.”
Wine Advocate 91 points “Enhanced levity to Donnhoff’s 2010 Oberhauser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett, even when compared with the corresponding Krotenpfuhl, may well be the effect of these vines’ literally slate underpinnings. In any event, this displays a lovely hint of creaminess allied to refreshment, and features a dynamic finishing interaction of fresh lemon and grapefruit, herbs, and wet stone. I would anticipate 12-15 years of high-performance.”
Donnhoff Oberhauser Brucke Riesling Auslese Gold Capsule 2010 ($59.95) $37 special
Wine Advocate 94 points “Picked-out, like its Hermannshohle counterpart, in the last, early-November days of harvest, Donnhoff’s 2010 Oberhauser Brucke Riesling Auslese gold capsule was, he estimates, “perhaps 50% affected by botrytis, and dry botrytis, no mere rot.” Candied lime rind and marzipan; lily and honeysuckle; white peach and salted caramel inform this wine’s haunting nose and rich yet buoyant palate, with the mouthwatering savor that characterized the corresponding Spatlese undiminished. This needs some time in bottle to better focus, and it will be interesting to see whether it develops more sense of cut and brightness. But it’s already irresistible, and almost sure to prove worth following for a quarter century or more.”
Cantina del Pino Barbaresco 2006 ($39.95) $29 special
Antonio Galloni 91 points “The 2006 Barbaresco is simply beautiful. Sweet perfumed cherries, flowers and spices emerge from this mid-weight, firm Barbaresco. The wine offers exceptional elegance and class, with delicate Pinot-like notes that linger on the finish. Today the tannins come across as decidedly youthful, so a few years of cellaring seems wise. This is an exceptional 2006 Barbaresco. The Barbaresco is made from parcels in Ovello, Albesani and Starderi. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2021.”
Ca Del Baio Barbaresco Asili 2010 ($39.95) $31.90 special
Wine Advocate 95 points “The 2010 Barbaresco Asili is an exciting, top-notch achievement that shows extreme class and sophistication. Polished mineral tones are fleshed out by cassis, wild berry, chopped mint and freshly milled white pepper. The wine is long and smooth on the finish, with a finely detailed or etched quality to the tannins. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2028. Giulio Grasso’s family entered the wine business “late,” as he tells it, because his male ancestors were soldiers in the various World Wars. Only after the turmoil in Europe settled, in the mid 1950s, did the family start to bottle wine. The estate’s most precious vineyard, the three hectares they own in the Asili cru, was a wedding dowry from Giulio’s grandmother (from Barbaresco) to his grandfather (from Treiso). Today, the family owns 25 hectares including the Valgrande and Marcarini crus in Treiso and the Asili and Pora crus in Barbaresco. Giulio’s father, Ernesto, farms the vineyards today at age 91.The Ca’ del Baio line-up is extremely impressive and delightful. These are some of the best wines from Barbaresco”
Ca Del Baio Barbaresco Valgrande 2010 ($39.95) $29 special
Wine Advocate 94 points “The 2010 Barbaresco Valgrande, on the other hand, delivers a heightened sense of elegance and feminine restraint. The bouquet is redolent of cola, tar, blue flower, rosehip with faint hints of exotic spice. The tight grip of the tannins–firm without being astringent–gives this wine the attributes needed for longer cellar time. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2026”
Vietti Barolo Castiglione 2009 ($49.95) $37 special
Wine Advocate 94 points “The 2009 Barolo Castiglione delivers a radiant but subdued quality with polished notes of dry mineral, black fruit, tar, licorice, leather and many more levels of complexity. This entry-level Barolo demonstrates that great results are achieved in 2009.
Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino 2007 ($39.95) $27 special
Antonio Galloni 91 points “The 2007 Brunello di Montalcino wraps around the palate with layers of rich, seductive fruit. There is plenty of expressiveness in the glass, even if the wine loses some of its persistence on the mid-palate and finish. This is a tasty, approachable Brunello that should drink well right out of the gate. The 2007 spent three years in Slavonian and French oak casks. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019.”
La Fuga Brunello di Montalcino 2006 ($59.95) $39 special
Stephen Tanzer 92 points “Good full, deep red. Complex, expressive nose offers blackberry, black raspberry, sassafras, cola, earth, licorice, mocha and minerals. Sweet, pliant and rich, but with very good energy and an impression of strong extract to the flavors of red fruits and spices. Boasts very good density and volume but excellent definition as well. Finishes long and subtle, with firm tannins and heady aromatic lift. This wine tightened up with air, suggesting that it really should be cellared.”
Antonio Galloni 92 points
Antonio Galloni 93 points “The 2007 Chianti Classico Castello di Ama is fabulous. There is so much going on in the glass, as endless layers of perfumed dark red fruit caress the palate in stunning style. The wine’s precision, elegance and overall sense of harmony are all first class. Smoke, tar and roses add the final layers of complexity on the finish. Today the wine is mostly remarkable for its exceptional silkiness; readers will have to wait at least a few years for the aromatics and flavors to develop tertiary nuances. The Castello is a wine that sets a new standard for what is possible within the Chianti Classico appellation. ”
Castello di Ama Chianti Classico Riserva 2008 ($49.95) $30.90 special
Stephen Tanzer 92+ “Good medium-deep red. Black cherry, redcurrant, licorice and menthol aromas are lifted by a floral element that carries through on the palate. Flavors of dark cherry, licorice and underbrush are complicated by a tarry quality. Finishes suave and smooth, with harmonious tannins and good subtle, spicy length. I was impressed by the purity of the sangiovese fruit, given the fact that the wine also includes cabernet franc and merlot components; chalk up another winner to the dynamic duo of Lorenza Sebaste and Marco Pallanti.”
Bodegas Muga Rioja Seleccion Especiale 2006 ($49.95) $33 special
Josh Raynolds 92 points “(70% tempranillo, 20% garnacha and the rest mazuelo and graciano): Saturated ruby. Pungent cherry and dark berry aromas, with spice and floral nuances adding complexity. Sweet and concentrated, but with excellent cut and vivacity to its dark fruit flavors. Builds and deepens toward the back, finishing with a sappy floral quality and resonating spiciness. Offers very good richness of flavor with no excess fat.”
Pingus PSI Ribera del Duero 2010 ($44.95) $33 special
Wine Advocate 92 points “The 2010 Psi has a more tightly wound bouquet than the 2009 with fresh blackberry, blueberry and vanilla essence that is well defined and harmonious. The palate is very well defined and the tannins, a little finer and more filigree than the 2009. It is fresh and natural, with precise dark berry and balsamic notes towards the finish. Thankfully the 2010 maintains its natural, almost -laid-back- persona and it represents the best Psi to date” Josh Raynolds 92 points “Bright purple. Pungent, expressive scents of cherry and dark berries, dried flowers and incense. Sappy cherry and cassis flavors are braced by tangy acidity and gain sweetness with air. Richer on the finish, with its resounding notes of cherry compote and Asian spices. This vibrant wine drinks very easily right now.”
Bedrock Zone of Oenopleasures: $40- $80
Betz Syrah La Cote Rousse 2009 ($59.95) $41.90 special
Rhone Report 95 points “Even inkier in color than the La Serenne, with more edgy aromas of smoked blackberries, dried beef, huge crushed rock like minerality, crushed flowers, and graphite, the 2009 Betz Family Syrah La Côte Rousse is full-bodied, incredibly concentrated, and yet light on its feet, with a clean, elegant texture, integrated acidity, and beautifully focused finish. As with the La Serenne, this needs cellar time. Give bottles at least another 3-4 years in the cellar. I really don’t think it will hit maturity until after a decade or more.”
Gramercy Lagniappe Syrah 2010 ($59.95) $46 special
Wine Advocate 95 points “More rich, full and voluptuous, while still not losing the house style, the 2010 Syrah Lagniappe is a knockout Syrah that easily matches the brilliant 2009. Perfumed, intense and complex, with Northern Rhone-like aromas of wild berry fruit, smoked bacon, lavender and black pepper, it flows onto the palate with a classically constructed, firm mouthfeel that carries vibrant acidity, beautiful richness and a great finish. A 100% Syrah from Red Willow, Minick and SJR vineyards that spent 23 months in 14% new French oak, it builds brilliantly in the glass and will thrill for 10-12 years. Drink now-2022″
Stonestreet Legacy Proprietary Red 2008 ($79.95) $53.50 special
Robert Parker 93 points “A blend of 84% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Merlot made by Graham Weerts, this beauty reveals a deep purple hue along with abundant notes of blueberries, black currants and crushed rocks intertwined with toast and earth. It possesses superb purity, silky tannins and a concentrated, intense mouthfeel. It should drink well for two decades or more.”
Forman Cabernet Sauvignon Napa 2004 ($89.95) $66 special
Stephen Tanzer 92 points “Good bright ruby-red. Aromas of blackberry, blueberry, licorice and aromatic spices. Richer and seemingly riper than the young 2005, but with lovely definition to the flavors of redcurrant and sour cherry. This features a lusher, softer, sweeter middle followed by chewier and more obvious tannins that showed a firmer edge with aeration.”
Vilmart Champagne Brut Grand Cellier 2008 ($99.95) $79 special
Antonio Galloni 93 points “The 2008 Brut Premier Cru Cuvée Grand Cellier d’Or is evocative and intriguing from the very first taste. Pinot notes are especially pronounced, even though the 2008 is 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot. Small red berries, flowers, mint and licorice all flesh out in a cool, mineral-infused Champagne loaded with pedigree and class. The 2008 is naturally quite a bit more focused than the 2007 (that is the nature of the years), but both are highly expressive. The 2008 remains texturally alluring all the way through to the finish. This bottle was disgorged in October 2012.”
Vouette et Sorbee Champagne Brut Cuvee Fidele NV [2009] ($79.95) $59 special
Wine Advocate 93 points “The 2009 Extra Brut Fidele (Pinot Noir) is rich, exuberant and powerful. Dried pears, white orchard fruit, flowers and spices burst from the glass in this intense, head-spinning Champagne. Clean veins of minerality frame a huge, powerful finish imbued with the essence of Pinot. Weighty, rich and powerful, the 2009 impresses for its fabulous balance and inviting, utterly irresistible personality. This is a great showing for the Fidele.”
M. Niellon Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru La Maltroie 2010 ($69.95) $59 special
Wine Spectator 92 points “A mineral-laden version, featuring apple, lemon verbena and herb flavors. Tightly wound and firm, with a moderately long finish. Should unwind a little with time.”
Stephen Tanzer 92 points “Pale yellow. Very pure nose combines pear, underripe pineapple and spring flowers lifted by a lemony note. Sweet white peach and floral flavors turn explosive on the back half, saturating the palate with classic minerals, wet stone, flowers and botanical herbs. With its terrific intensity and cut, this really tickles the taste buds on the very long, scented, echoing finish. Very rich and very young: I would not be surprised if it merited an even higher score five years down the road.
Louis Jadot Beaune 1er Cru Theurons 2009 ($59.95) $44 special
Wine Spectator 91 points “Bright and succulent, with a touch of oak lending spice accents to the candied cherry core. An elegant, lacy red, yet with intensity. Feels like it’s holding something back. Best from 2015 through 2027. 229 cases imported”
Faiveley Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers 2008 ($99.95) $79 special
Burghound 93 points “A strikingly layered nose combines ample amounts of pungent Gevrey-style earth, spice, iron notes and ripe red and dark berry fruit that meld with very serious, even brooding big-bodied flavors that are built on a base of firm minerality and finish with excellent richness and depth. This is a classic Gevrey in both style and character with excellent power and really lovely balance. In a word, terrific.”
Faiveley Pommard Rugiens 2010 ($119.95) $79 special
Stephen Tanzer 93 points “Good medium red. Sexy aromas of cherry, redcurrant and minerals complicated by smoky earth tones. Impressively dense, intense red fruit and floral flavors are stubbornly closed but already perfume the mouth. The very long, subtle finish features noble tannins and a firm structural underpinning. After 72 hours in the recorked bottle, this wine showed even more perfumed aromas of iron, flowers and minerals and a wonderfully taut, gripping palate, suggesting that it will evolve slowly and be long-lived.”
Faiveley Volnay Santenots 2009 ($99.95) $69 special
Burghound 91-94 points “Quite deeply colored. An earthy and very ripe (though not surmature) nose of red currant, plum and a hint of black cherry merges into noticeably earthy and full-bodied flavors that are wonderfully generous and impressively concentrated possess ample amounts of dry extract that buffers the extremely serious and strikingly persistent finish. This should be gorgeous in time.”
Lucien Le Moine Nuits St Georges Les St Georges 2006 ($149.95) $119 special
Wine Advocate 93 points “Ripe strawberry and cherry along with charred, roasted meat scent the nose of the Le Moine 2006 Nuits St.-Georges Les St.-Georges. This is broad and rich, more pliable on the palate than the corresponding Les Cailles – though still full of fine-grained tannin – and with a mind-bending suggestion of things mineral: chalk, iodine, ineffable, ore-like impingements. But don’t imagine for a minute that this is merely cerebral stuff. On the contrary, the bright, energetic finish here will set your bodily juices flowing. I would give it 2-3 years and then expect another 8-10 of delightful profundity.”
Domaine Charvin Chateauneuf du Pape 2011 ($59.95) $49 special
Stephen Tanzer 91-93 points “Bright ruby. Intense, perfumed aromas of red berries, minerals and smoky garrigue. Offers juicy raspberry and cherry flavors and a sexy note of lavender pastille, with a late kick of white pepper adding lift. Closes with very good clarity and length, showing only a hint of tannins. This wine will be very appealing soon after release.”
Beaurenard Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Boisrenard 2009 ($79.95) $69 special
Wine Spectator 96 points “This powerful red offers a muscular core of roasted fig, blackberry and cassis fruit framed by thick, mesquite-tinged tannins, with loads of tobacco, pepper and tar coating the mouthwatering finish. Yet despite its power, this is racy and defined. Best from 2014 through 2024.”
Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese* 2010 ($59.95) $49 special
Wine Advocate 95 points “Honeysuckle, lily and heliotrope; apple and white peach essences ravishingly scent the Selbach-Oster “one-star” 2010 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese*, then reconvene on a creamily-textured yet insistently juicy palate that conveys an irresistible sense of tenderness, delicacy, caress, yet at the same time vibrancy. The savor of browned butter, salt, and deep nut oils here are like catnip to the salivary glands. This glorious epitome of its great site finishes with extraordinary, multi-layered, and in the end almost ethereal persistence. The berries here were still largely green-gold, freckled, but only delicately (“perhaps 20-25%”) botrytized, relates Johannes Selbach, and this seems to me entirely recognizable in the glass. I would hope to follow and be spoiled by some of the 2,000 liters of this for the next quarter century.”
Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Rio Sordo 2008 ($59.95) $41.90 special
Wine Spectator 92 points “Graphite and mineral aromas and flavors turn into cherry, licorice and sandalwood in this muscular, savory red, which is pungent and dense, with a tight-grained finish. Racy. Best from 2015 through 2027. 302 cases imported. Antonio Galloni 92 points “A picture perfect example of site, the 2008 Barbaresco Riserva Rio Sordo is classic Rio Sordo. Medium in body, it possesses a sweet, open bouquet and a relatively medium-bodied personality next to the rest of the wines in this range. A long, pointed finish rounds things out nicely. Overall, the 2008 is a pretty, nuanced wine with lovely detail, precision and class, if not quite the visceral thrill of the very finest wines.”
La Gerla Brunello di Montalcino Gli Angeli 2006 ($79.95) $59 special
Wine Spectator 93 points “Ripe plum, cigar box and iron notes are backed by solid tannins and lively acidity in this muscular red. There’s also a suppleness in the texture that should increase as the tannins are absorbed. Best from 2015 through 2032.”
Caprili Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2006 ($79.95) $51.90 special
Wine Spectator 95 points “A fresh version, scented with cherry, berry and wild herbs, with racy acidity driving its pure fruit and tobacco flavors. Elegant and intense, building to a lingering aftertaste of fruit, spice and mineral. Best from 2015 through 2035.”
Bodegas Muga Rioja Gran Reserva Prado Eneo 2005 ($69.95) $49 special
Wine Advocate 95 points “The 2005 Prado Enea Gran Reserva spends 36-months in oak, nine months in new oak after which it is racked into American oak that is ‘semi-new’ (i.e. a new barrel that is ‘broken in’ with a wine beforehand). It has an unashamedly opulent bouquet of primal, ripe, boysenberry, mulberry, dark chocolate and crushed violets that blossom with aeration. The palate is full-bodied with crisp acidity cutting through the pure blackberry and cassis fruit. It has wonderful focus and intensity, though the finish demonstrates convincing composure. This is an outstanding Gran Reserva whose silky texture will instantly win you over. Drink 2013-2030+”
Superlativity A Must : $80- $120
Calera Pinot Noir Jensen Vineyard 2009 ($119.95) $99 special
Wine Advocate 97 points “The 2009 Pinot Noir Jensen Vineyard is the biggest and richest of the 2009s. It boasts stunning depth in its dark fruit, licorice, spices and sweet balsamic notes. Layers of fruit totally saturate the palate as this utterly majestic Pinot opens up in the glass. The sheer depth and nuance of the Jensen is simply breathtaking. Readers will have to be patient, as the Jensen is very much built for the cellar. It is an American classic to savor and enjoy to age 20 and perhaps beyond. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2029. ”
La Sirena Cabernet Sauvignon Napa 2008 ($179.95) $99 special
Robert Parker 93 points “The 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon, from a vineyard on Pritchard Hill, is a gorgeous wine layered with black plums, cherries, smoke, camphor and licorice. The 2008 is a gracious, understated Cabernet that impresses for its balance, class and harmonious finish. The wine keeps getting better in the glass, as hints of tar, smoke and licorice flow through to the dense finish. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2018”
Jean Grivot Nuits St Georges 1er Cru Roncieres 2009 ($149.95) $119 special
Wine Advocate 92 points “Smoke, incense and spices are some of the nuances that emerge from the 2009 Nuits St. Georges Roncieres. This is a powerful incisive wine loaded with dark fruit and minerals. All of the elements meld together gracefully, showing tremendous energy and vibrancy, especially on the finish.”
Robert Parker 98 points “The 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Chaupin rivals the 2007 Chaupin (to date the best Chaupin I have yet tasted). Made from 100% Grenache (3/4 destemmed), it boasts a dense black/purple color as well as unbelievable notes of raspberries, black cherries, licorice, truffles, camphor, forest floor and garrigue. This wine is stunningly concentrated, incredibly noble, precise and expansive on the palate with mouth-saturating intensity, glycerin and extract. It is an amazing example of impeccably grown old vine Grenache translated into a natural yet full-throttle red.”
Didier Dagueneau Fume de Pouilly Silex 2009 ($139.95) $99 special
Wine Advocate 93-94+ “From an enclave just outside the cuverie in Saint Andelain, the Dagueneau 2009 Blanc Fume de Pouilly Silex delivers an almost inordinate diversity of floral, herbal, citrus (predominately grapefruit), and pit-fruit (predominately nectarine) elements, with the bitterness of fruit pits, smoky pungency of red currant and crushed stone, as well as notes of shrimp shell reduction and iodine inflecting a long, bittersweet, yet at the same time vibrant, buoyant finish. This silken textured seducer should gain with time in bottle and be worth following for ten or a dozen years.”
Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Beerenauslese 2005 375ml ($169.95) $119 special
Wine Advocate 98 points “The 2005 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Beerenauslese smells intensely honeyed, with nut paste, apple jelly, citrus oils, and a hint of molasses as well. In the mouth, this offers a most amazing combination of jellied viscosity and caramelization of fruit, a nut-brittle character of almond and hazelnut, and along with all this, the clarity and purity of a stream of fresh fruit. An intensely esterous, billowing finish carries apple, white raisin, and toasted nuts on waves of caramel, fruit jelly, and a persistently refreshing core of fresh fruit that only Riesling can deliver under circumstances this ripe and nobly rotten. It’s hard not to get carried away on these waves and with this wine.”
M. Mascarello Barolo Monprivato 2008 ($119.95) $99 special
Wine Spectator 95 points “Detailed and fragrant, offering floral, strawberry, cherry, licorice and spice flavors, this is elegant and underlined by a strong mineral streak. Well-proportioned, picking up intensity and complexity on the long, savory finish. Extremely fresh and classy. Best from 2016 through 2035.”
Antonio Galloni 94 points “Readers will have to be especially patient with the 2008 Barolo Monprivato, a wine that has none of the early appeal of other recent vintages. Still very much closed in on itself, the 2008 possesses serious depth, power and structure, but those elements are suppressed by the recent bottling. Dried rose petals, crushed berries and mint are some of the nuances that flesh out on the powerful, imposing finish. I don’t think the 2008 will ever match the 2006 or 2007, but it is going to be fun seeing how close it gets. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2048.”
Pingus Flor de Pingus Ribera del Duero 2010 ($109.95) $89 special
Josh Raynolds 94 points “Vivid purple. Ripe cherry, cassis, potpourri and cracked pepper on the intensely perfumed nose, with subtle licorice and woodsmoke qualities adding complexity. Deep, sweet and expansive, offering explosive dark berry compote, floral pastille and anise flavors. A spicy quality gains strength on the finish, which leaves smoke and mineral notes behind. This bottling has been going from strength to strength in recent years and offers superb value relative to its ritzy Pingus sibling.”
Cava Recaredo Reserva Particular 2001 ($139.95) $109 special
Wine Advocate 95 points “The 2001 Reserva Particular de Recaredo was sourced from the estate’s oldest vines and is composed of 60% Macabeu and 40% Xarel-lo with the latter fermented in cask for added structure and elegance. It spent over 100 months on lees and was finished with zero dosage. Light gold in color with beautifully refined and complex aromatics, in the glass it shows greater evolution and elegance than its cousins as well as a sense of proportion and great length.”
Extra-Dimensional Thrillers: $120+
Stephen Tanzer 95+ points “Bright full ruby. Pungent aromas of candied blueberry, minerals, lavender, crushed stone, roasted meat, mocha and black olive; youthful but already expressive. Pliant, rich and deep, with terrific verve and incipient complexity to the intense flavors of black cherry, salty minerality, game and white pepper. Really exhilarating high-toned floral/wild herb character and inner-mouth tension. Still an infant, and extremely long on the aftertaste. This reminded me of a top syrah bottling from Cayuse.” Robert Parker 94 points “Interesting French-like Syrahs are also made from the estate’s steep hillside vineyards. The 2008 IX Syrah Estate is performing even better than it did last year from barrel. Juicy bacon fat, roasted meat, grilled herb and smoky notes are classic northern Rhone Syrah characteristics. A floral component suggests some Viognier could be co-fermented, but this is 100% Syrah. The wood is well-concealed in this full-bodied, delicious wine. It is capable of a decade or more of cellaring”
Robert Parker 96 points “The 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Tychson Hill is a gorgeous wine laced with dark red fruit, flowers and spices. It reveals the silkiest of tannins and remarkable grace throughout. All of the aromas and flavors wrap around beautifully to a deep, sensual finish layered with sweet floral notes. This is a sensual, totally dazzling Cabernet. In 2009 the blend is 95% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024”
Jadot Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru 2009 ($349.95) $259 special only 2 bottles left
Wine Advocate 95 points “The 2009 Batard-Montrachet (from the Puligny side) is marvelously linear, textured and just plain beautiful. All of the elements come together in this striking, impeccable wine. The Batard blossoms on the palate with extraordinary finesse in its fruit, fabulous overall balance and terrific freshness, especially on the finish. It is breathtaking in every way. Anticipated maturity: 2014+.”
Domaine de Montille Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Caillerets 2010 ($169.95) $139
Stephen Tanzer 92-94 points “Pale, green-tinged yellow. Ripe yellow fruits and acacia blossom on the nose. Rich, ripe and sweet, with apricot, peach and spice flavors framed by lively acidity. A strong powdered stone quality gives this very juicy wine an impression of chewiness without weight. Savory and very long on the finish. Offers outstanding potential.”
Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Le Montrachet 2011 ($849.95) $749 special
Burghound 93-96 points “less expressive than the Chevalier though the underlying fruit is clearly fresh and ripe with mostly citrus and floral aromas. This is exceptionally well-concentrated with fine phenolic ripeness to the very broad-shouldered flavors that possess outstanding power if not quite the intensity or the minerality of the Chevalier. The explosive and bone dry finish compensates however by being even longer and more complex. Overall, the two wines are qualitative equals, at least at this very early juncture though their respective personalities are quite different. Once again, plenty of patience will be required.”
Jadot Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru 2010 ($339.95) $229 special
Wine Advocate 94-96 points
“The 2010 Bonnes- Mares bursts onto the palate with dark cherries, mint, flowers and graphite. This is another picture-perfect, representative wine that captures the essence of the white soils in this part of Bonnes Mares. There is more than enough fruit to fill out the wine’s broad shoulders and balance the big tannins. A clean vein of minerality gives the wine its center and focus. A final blast of blue and black fruit stains the palate on the finish.”
Jadot Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru 2009 ($249.95) $159 special
Wine Spectator 94 points, Burghound 92-95 points “(from the oldest vines of the entire Jadot portfolio of owned vineyards). A pretty and cool mix of upper and lower register aromas includes notes of red currant, wild red berries, earth and stone hints. The attractively energetic and focused medium weight plus flavors possess very fine mid-palate concentration with a silky yet firm mouth feel. There is excellent depth and length to the palate staining finish that is an exercise in harmony and balance though there is some youthful asperity present. Lovely and this should age exceptionally well.”
Hudelot- Noellat Romanee-St-Vivant Grand Cru 2007 1.5L ($999.95) $799 special
Stephen Tanzer 93 points “Good medium red. Highly perfumed nose combines raspberry, strawberry, cocoa powder, white pepper, blood orange and a resiny headshop spiciness. Pungent, complex and weightless; a wonderfully lively, delicate wine with sneaky intensity and superb penetrating energy and lift. Finishes dry and understated. Suave rather than large. My recorked bottle lost some verve with 24 hours, suggesting that this wine is probably best for mid-term drinking-say, beginning in five years. But that brilliant nose can’t be duplicated anywhere outside the northern Cote de Nuits.”
Domaine Janasse Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes 2007 ($399.95) $319 special
Robert Parker 100 points “The perfect 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes (tasted on four separate occasions) is composed of 85% Grenache, 10% Syrah, and the rest Mourvedre and other authorized varietals from 60- to 100+-year-old vines. The wine is aged in both tank (75%) and small oak barrels (25%). Its inky/purple color is followed by a phenomenal nose of spring flowers, creme de cassis, blackberries, boysenberries, licorice, truffles, and spice. Displaying massive body, incredible freshness, laser-like focus from the excellent acids, and a finish that goes on well past a minute, this prodigious Chateauneuf du Pape is the most extraordinary wine yet made at this estate. While accessible (as most 2007s are), ideally it needs 4-5 years of cellaring, and should keep for three decades.”
M. Mascarello Barolo Ca’ di Morrisio 2004 ($499.95) $389 special
Wine Spectator 98 points “Settling into a phase of maturation, this powerful red offers floral, truffle, macerated cherry, leather and spice aromas and flavors. Sweet and balanced, with fruit, mineral and savory elements lingering on the aftertaste. Still youthful, this remains approachable, and should peak in a year or two. Best from 2015 throug
Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia 2008 ($149.95) $129 special
Antonio Galloni 95+ points “The 2008 Barolo Cascina Francia possesses gorgeous inner perfume, layers of sublime fruit and fabulous overall balance. Plums, dark cherries and licorice are followed by darker notes of graphite and tar as the wine opens up in the glass. Today, the 2008 is much less expressive than it has been the many times I have tasted it from barrel. It will be interesting to see how the 2008 develops and whether it puts on weight or remains more of a mid-weight, gracious Barolo. Either way, it is fabulous.”
James Suckling 98 points “Incredibly polished Monfortino. The tannins caress your palate. Aromas of marzipan and dark fruits with orange peel and cedar. Dried fruits. Extremely floral as well. Full-bodied, with super fine tannins and a great elegance. You can drink now but will age for ages…98”Tenuta dell Ornellaia Ornellaia Bolgheri 2009 ($189.95) $149 special
Wine Advocate 97 points “The 2009 Ornellaia caresses the palate with layers of seamless, radiant fruit. Sweet red berries, mocha, flowers, new leather and spices are some of the many notes that are layered in this sumptuous, totally beautiful wine. The 2009 stands out for its silky tannins and phenomenal overall balance. This is one of those wines that will probably enjoy a long drinking window. There is little question the ability to blend grape varieties was a huge help in this vintage. In my opinion, that is the main reason Ornellaia is a slightly more complete wine than Masseto in 2009. In one of my blind tastings, the 2009 made a very eloquent case for itself as the wine of the vintage. The blend is 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 21% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. In 2009 winemaker Axel Heinz used the highest percentage of Cabernet Franc ever in Ornellaia and gave the wine less time in oak, both with the goal of preserving as much freshness as possible. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2029. ”
Cava Recaredo Turo d’En Mota 2002 ($179.95) $149 special
Wine Advocate 96 points “The outstanding 2002 Turo d’en Mota is pure Xarello from a single vineyard of vines planted in 1940 in Sant Sadurni d’Anoia. The first fermentation was done in oak casks where it remained for 45 days with lees stirring and underwent 8 years and three months aging before disgorgement on December 12, 2011. The bouquet is more like a dry white Burgundy than a Cava, with hints of honeysuckle, dried apricot, lemon peel and a touch of jasmine. It is beautifully defined and very complex. The palate is very well-balanced with superb delineation and focus, drawing you in with subtle notes of orange peel, tangerine, beeswax and honeycomb. Long in the mouth and utterly harmonious, one has to ask if this is the “Clos d’Ambonnay” of Cava? Drink now-2016+”