Eric Solomon Selection: Languedoc Rock Star Puech-Haut; Spanish Case Deals; Staff Pick: Nicolas Chemarin’s 2014 Beaujolais; Expressions of Terroir: Jamet & Gilles Barge; New 2016 Donnhoff Wines; New Terry Theise Offer: Austria; Here At Last: ’02 Trimbach & ’10 Dal Forno
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New Eric Solomon Selection:
A Languedoc Love Affair
Rising (Rock) Star of the Region
Puech-Haut
Puech-Haut has been a critical darling for some time now, employing a string of renowned consultants from Michel Rolland to Philippe Cambie, who is there now. The wines and winery are spared no expense and the result is a set of bottlings that are powerful and rich (though at very reasonable prices). They’re made to impress, and impress they do. Very few wineries in the Languedoc make wines this showy and powerful.
Chateau Puech-Haut Pic Saint-Loup La Closerie du Pic, Languedoc-Roussillon 2014 750ML ($29.95) $24 special
Wine Advocate 92-94 points “Still not yet bottled (I tasted it from barrel last year as well), the 2014 Languedoc Pic Saint Loup Closerie du Pic is a blend of mostly Syrah and Mourvèdre, with a splash of Grenache. It got a big “wow” in my notes and has fabulous, fresh, lively notes of dark fruits, crushed rocks and spring flowers. There’s notable oak on the nose, but it’s beautifully integrated and lends a polish and richness to its texture. Full-bodied, with ripe tannin and a great finish, this is a sensational Pic Saint Loup that will drink well right out of the gate, yet evolve for 7-8 years or more.”
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
The average price is $27
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Spanish Case Deals
Bargains by the Dozen
Stock Up & Save More!
Case-12 Gomariz Coto de Gomariz Blanco, Ribeiro 2014 750ML ($299.95) $199 special, 1 case available (that’s only $16.58/bottle!)
Gomariz Coto de Gomariz Blanco, Ribeiro 2014 750ML ($24.95) $18 special, 18 bottles available
James Suckling 95 points “A wine with beautiful finesse and depth. Dark fruits, dark chocolate, hazelnut and floral character. Polished and refined. Full body. Long and beautiful. Tasty finish. The first recent vintage 100% made by Telmo Rodriguez. Drink or hold.”
Peñín Guide to Spanish Wine 96 points– Podium Award – Exceptional Wine “(tempranillo, garnacha, graciano). Colour: cherry, garnet rim. Nose: ripe fruit, spicy, creamy oak, complex, expressive. Palate: flavourful, toasty, round tannins, balanced, elegant.”
Wine Advocate 93 points “The wine that represents the house style and also the biggest volume here with around 350,000 bottles produced is the 2010 Reserva which was cropped from an almost perfect growing season. A blend of the reds Tempranillo, Garnacha, Graciano and the whites Viura and Malvasía Riojana, it fermented with indigenous yeasts in a combination of stainless steel and oak vats then matured in French oak barrels for 17 months. The nose has earthy aromas and notes of ripe orange peel giving old-style character to the wine marked by very well-integrated oak and an obvious Rioja character. There are cherries, plums and spices with licorice and ink aromas. The day after, it has more strawberries with very good freshness, so the evolution in bottle should be good. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins and good acidity that ends with sweet fruit flavors and something earthy, very pleasant and easy to drink. It grows on you.”
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
The next best price is $23
Case-12 Bodegas Roda Sela, Rioja DOCa 2012 750ML ($399.95) $269 special, 2 cases available (that’s only $22.42/bottle!)
Bodegas Roda Sela, Rioja DOCa 2012 750ML ($34.95) $26 special, 18 bottles available
Wine Advocate 90 points “The 2012 Sela will be released in March 2015, and it’s a great example of Sela. It opens to bright red fruit, more shiny than 2011, and is still pretty young showing faint lactic notes and more traces of the barrel that should be absorbed with time. 2012 could be fresher and more accessible. It’s an elegant and balanced wine, with some fine-grained tannins that will be polished with bottle age. The palate is very tasty and has almost salty flavors that are quite gentle and velvety. In 2012 Sela was a blend of Tempranillo with 3% Graciano and 1% Garnacha.”
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
The next best price is $29.99
Case-12 Buil & Gine 17-XI, Montsant 2014 750ML ($249.95) $199 special, 3 cases available (that’s only $16.58/bottle!)
Buil & Gine 17-XI, Montsant 2014 750ML ($21.95) $18 special, 36+ bottles available
Josh Raynolds–Vinous 91 points “Brilliant ruby. Highly perfumed, evoking ripe cherry and blackcurrant that are complemented by slowly emerging aromas of cured meat, lavender and minerals. Enlivened by a spicy nuance, the silky, sweet and penetrating palate offers intense dark fruit and floral pastille flavors. Seamless and very nicely concentrated, with smooth tannins lending shape to a very long, fruit-driven finish.” JR
Case-12 Bodegas Ilurce Rio Madre Graciano, Rioja DOCa 2014 750ML ($149.95) $99 special, 4 cases available (that’s only $8.25/bottle and the lowest listed price in the USA today!)
Bodegas Ilurce Rio Madre Graciano, Rioja DOCa 2014 750ML ($14.95) $9.90 special, 36+ bottles available
Josh Raynolds 90 points “Brilliant violet color. Intensely perfumed dark berry and floral pastille scents, along with suggestions of anise, violet and pipe tobacco. Sweet and expansive on the palate, offering sappy black and blue fruit flavors that put on weight with air. Shows very good energy and power on the long, gently tannic finish, leaving behind notes of blueberry and peppery spices.”
Spanish Case Deal of the Month
Arriving This Month!
Case-12 La Rioja Alta Gran Reserva 904, Rioja DOCa 2005 750ML ($799.95) $619 pre-arrival special (that’s only $51.58/bottle!)
La Rioja Alta Gran Reserva 904, Rioja DOCa 2005 750ML ($69.95) $57.50 pre-arrival special
Wine Advocate 96 points “The 2005 Gran Reserva 904 is a superb blend of Tempranillo from the villages of Briñas, Labastida and Villalba with 10% Graciano from Briones and Rodezno. The grapes were destemmed and crushed and fermented in stainless steel for 18 days at 25 C. Malolactic fermentation was spontaneous and lasted 38 days. These wines are marked by a long aging in used American oak barrels following the most strict Riojan tradition; four years during which time the wine was manually racked eight times. This is usually my favorite wine from La Rioja Alta and 2005 is one of its best showings, going back to the quality of the vintages of the 1950s and 60s. The nose is very balsamic with notes of camphor, hints of mint, leather and hung game wrapped around a core of cherries in liqueur. Together it is balanced, subtle, truly elegant and classical. The palate is only medium-bodied but with great concentration of flavors that are very tasty, mineral, almost salty and framed by ultra-fine tannins and smashing balance. A great classic. At this quality level this is a bargain.” 4/2015
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Summer Shipping Special:
Midwest, East, & South
For the summer season we are offering UPS Three Day Select Service for the price of UPS Ground for shipments normally traveling 4 or more business days by ground.
Free service upgrade only applies on single orders purchased and shipped during the promotional period. Additional fees will apply to orders held for any reason until after the promotional period and shipped by Three Day Select. Offer not valid on items purchased before the promotional period or on pre-arrival items that arrive after the promotional period ends.
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Staff Pick
Nicolas Chemarin Regnie La Haut Ronze 2014
An evening birthday in the park with friends was a perfect day to break into some of the 2014 Chemarin Regnie. My wife loves cherry clafoutis, and I love to make it because it is delicious and I have yet to ruin one. The fresh cherries and rich batter were a perfect pairing with the brightness of the Gamay. Regnie tends to be my favorite Beaujolais as the wines have an elegant balance that seems to tip towards sexy. They won’t overpower you so much as sidle up to you and effectively suggest you have another glass.
The wine is, as I said, bright. There is a depth to the scents of fresh red fruits that comes on with more air, but it remains buoyant. On the palate the balance is clear; this isn’t a fruit driven or acid driven wine. It’s both. Its tannins are enough to add a little light grip and tension, but not so much that you’re puckering through. 2014 may be overshadowed by the press attached to 2015, but don’t be fooled. The ‘14s are lovely, will age with tremendous grace, and are for the most part drinking beautifully. In particular, the Chemarin. This should delight any lover of traditional Beaujolais.
Nicolas Chemarin Regnie Les Haute Ronze, Beaujolais 2014 750ML ($21.95) $18 special, 36+ bottles available
Josh Raynolds–Vinous 92 points “Vivid ruby-red. Sexy, mineral-laced aromas of ripe red and dark berries, violet and licorice. Sappy and penetrating, offering bitter cherry and black raspberry flavors that become sweeter as the wine opens up. Concentrated yet lithe, delivering excellent finishing clarity and strong, mineral-driven persistence.”
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
More Great Options in 2014 Beaujolais:
Domaine de la Chapelle des Bois Morgon ‘Les Rontay’, Beaujolais 2014 750ML ($21.95) $19 special, 36+ bottles available
“Chantal and Eric Coudert-Appert, the proprietors of the Domaine de la Chapelle des Bois, represent the seventh generation of this family line to work the vineyards of this estate in the heart of Fleurie. The domaine comprises 8.4 hectares of vineyards, all of which are hand-harvested. This energetic couple follows the precepts of “lutte raisonnée” when working the vineyards, which is to say they use an organic approach, treating the vines only when absolutely necessary to produce a healthy, ripe crop. At Domaine de la Chapelle des Bois, the wines are vinified in a traditional manner using a “semi-carbonic” maceration. The cuvaison extends for 10 to 15 days depending on the specific cuvée. A grill placed on top of the cuve and then partially submerged is often utilized during the fermentation period to keep the solid matter in continuous contact with the fermenting juice; this process of extraction is supplemented by a twice-a-day “remontage” or pumping of the juice over the solids during the cuvaison.”-Importer note
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
The average price is $22
Chateau Grange Cochard Morgon Cote du Puy, Beaujolais 2014 750ML ($27.95) $24 special, 36+ bottles available
Josh Raynolds–Vinous 93 points “Deep ruby. Mineral-accented cherry and blackberry aromas are underscored by a spicy element that gains strength as the wine opens up. Sappy and penetrating, offering sweet dark berry flavors with complicating suggestions of star anise and violet. The spice and floral qualities build steadily through an impressively long, sappy finish, which is framed by harmonious tannins that fold easily into the intense fruit.”
Domaine du Pavillon de Chavannes Cote de Brouilly Cuvee des Ambassades, Beaujolais 2014 750ML ($24.95) $21.90 special, 21 bottles available
Josh Raynolds–Vinous 92 points “Pale red. A pure, expansive bouquet displays vibrant strawberry, blood orange and floral pastille scents and energetic minerality. Taut, spicy and sharply focused, offering juicy red fruit and floral pastille flavors plus a touch of five-spice powder. The mineral and floral qualities repeat on a long, gently tannic finish that leaves a sweet red berry note behind.”
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
Domaine Richard Rottiers Moulin-a-Vent, Beaujolais 2014 750ML ($24.95) Was $21.90, Now $18, 36+ bottles available
Wine Enthusiast 93 points “Produced from vines up to 80 years old, this is a powerful, wood-aged wine. Tannins are mixed with toast, spice and dark plum flavors. Acidity gives freshness and finishes the wine with very fine fruits as well as structure. Age this impressive wine and drink from 2018.”
Josh Raynolds-Vinous 92 points “Brilliant violet. Smoke-accented blackberry and cherry scents are complicated by suggestions of vanilla, violet and licorice. Sweet and seamless in texture, offering intense dark berry and floral pastille flavors that tighten up and become spicier with air. Weighty yet lithe, delivering a solid finishing punch of sappy dark fruit, smooth tannins and excellent persistence. This substantial yet energetic wine has the stuffing as well as the balance to age.”
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
The average price is $22
Pierre-Marie Chermette Domaine du Vissoux Fleurie les Garants, Beaujolais 2014 750ML ($27.95) Was $24, Now $21.90 special, 25 bottles available
Josh Raynolds–Vinous 93 points “Deep ruby. Intense black raspberry, cherry and floral pastille aromas are complemented by suggestions of licorice and smoky minerals. Juicy and penetrating, offering sappy red and blue fruit flavors that effortlessly marry power to finesse. The mineral and floral notes linger impressively on the finish, which is given shape by fine-grained, sneaky tannins.”
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
The next best price is $23.19
The average price is $23
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Arriving Late August
Expressions of Terroir
Syrah for the long haul – hide them deep in your cellar for revelatory terroir experiences:
“Jean-Paul Jamet echoed the opinion of many of his colleagues when he cautioned me that ‘if you want to really see terroir in the 2015s, you’re going to have to give them time.’ [I] can see why he calls it ‘a terroir year’ – the wines appear, at this very early stage, to be finely etched and focused, favoring energy over ripeness and weight. That’s a style that Jamet himself prefers, he said, “because you notice the complexity more than just the fruit.” –Josh Raynolds, Vinous Media
Domaine Jamet Syrah, IGP Collines Rhodaniennes 2015 750ML ($39.95) $33 pre-arrival special
Josh Raynolds–Vinous 89 points “(made entirely with de-stemmed fruit): Brilliant ruby. Spicy cherry, black raspberry and pungent flowers on the perfumed nose. Round and fleshy but energetic as well, offering dark berry, allspice and cracked pepper flavors that spread out on the back half. Blends power and vivacity smoothly and finishes sweet and nicely persistent, with subtle tannins folding into the wine’s juicy dark fruit.
“[Gilles’ wines are] second to none as expression of both site and tradition” –Rare Wine Company
Domaine Gilles Barge Cote Rotie Brune, Rhone 2012 750ML ($119.95) $89 pre-arrival special
Wine Spectator 93 points “Focused, with a supple beam of cassis and plum reduction notes lined with hints of anise, violet and incense. The finish picks up light bay and juniper accents, but stays fleshy and inviting in feel. Solid and approachable now. Drink now through 2022.”
Josh Raynolds–Vinous 90 points “Opaque ruby. Aromas of fresh dark berries, olive and violet and a zesty mineral topnote. Juicy and focused on the palate, offering spice-accented blackberry and licorice flavors that become deeper in the glass. Dusty tannins build slowly and add grip to the long, spicy finish.”
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New 2016 Donnhoff Wines
Arriving in October
We have three exciting new offers of Donnhoff wines. Darling, nay, king of the Nahe. In an oh-so-classic a vintage as 2016, you should be stocking your cellar to the rafters.
Weingut Donnhoff Kreuznacher Kahlenberg Riesling Trocken, Nahe 2016 750ML ($37.95) $31.90 pre-arrival special
Terry Theise note: “This wine is oh so pretty and has such a calm tranquil demeanor that you don’t notice its complexity at first. There’s fragrances of plum and fresh ocean fish leading to a slightly singed spice note that even harkens to paprika. An endearing and interesting dry Riesling showing the clement nature of the site.”
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
Weingut Donnhoff Roxheimer Hollenpfad Riesling Trocken, Nahe 2016 750ML ($39.95) $33 pre-arrival special
Terry Theise note: “The red sandstone parcel is called Im Mühlenberg and is considered a “GG” though Cornelius (sensibly) doesn’t wish to bottle all his dry wines as GG—the Kahlenberg could also have enjoyed the sobriquet. The site seems to make a stern wine; 2015’s big ripe fruit was kind to it. The ’16 is masculine and sinewy, and it’s noticeably dry. A small swizzle of mineral crawls into the finish, but I’m almost certain this will be far less austere after filtration and bottling.”
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
Weingut Donnhoff Norheimer Kirschheck Riesling Spatlese, Nahe 2016 750ML ($39.95) $33 pre-arrival special
Terry Theise note: “As always, cherry-blossom and lime and apple; an elegant cool melony vintage of a wine so pretty we take it for granted. Dönnhoff at their most virginal and giddy, and if you’re a drinker especially fond of this wine, I’m especially fond of you.”
This is the only listing in the USA today!
Also Arriving in October from Donnhoff:
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New Terry Theise Offer: Austria
Gobelsburg / Hirsch / Hiedler
Terry Theise on the 2016 (and the ‘have-to-have’ 2015 late releases): “There are incisive wines in 2016; there are intense wines, fascinating wines, quivering beautiful wines, but there are few if any big wines. I heard the phrase “After 2015 it’s back to reality,” but really, what reality? In this case the reality is, Austrian Rieslings and GVs are generally so outstanding that they shine even in (so-called) normal vintages… For people who like Austrian wine, who buy some each year, who drink the wines regularly, [2016] wines will please you and charm you and you’ll be happy to have them. A good many of them are superb, some may be great, and a small number may be profound, but this isn’t what one would insist is a “great” vintage; it simply shows how good good can be in a wine culture with such a high baseline. There aren’t many 2015s left, but they still look good. I wondered if ’16 would make them seem corpulent, but no. I think ’15 will be all I hoped it would be, and right now my sense is it will ultimately exceed 2013, though both are outstanding vintages.”
Schloss Gobelsburg
The wines of that Michi Moosbrugger has been making at Gobelsburg define classically oriented Gruner and Riesling for many fans of the Kamptal estate. Working with old-school techniques, the wines that Gobelsburg turns out are filigreed and aromatic while retaining heft and power. Because of the old monastic origins of the estate, the winery owns some of the choicest part of the top vineyards in the area and the wines are as wonderful as you’d expect.
Schloss Gobelsburg Wines Arriving in October
Schloss Gobelsburg Gruner Veltliner, Kamptal 2016 750ML ($17.95) $14 pre-arrival special
Terry Theise note: “Yup, a plus. It shouldn’t be this good, and yet! It’s a parfait of lilacs, wisteria and tarragon, it has energy, focus and flow, the wine is almost creamy yet it’s lavish and light, cheerful and accommodating, a wine in high spirits, up for anything. It is, honestly, impossible to imagine anything better for this price.”
This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast today!
The average price nationally is $16
Schloss Gobelsburg Tradition Gruner Veltliner Reserve, Kamptal 2015 750ML ($59.95) $49 pre-arrival special
Terry Theise note: “After the Lamm this takes us back to a contralto murmur, a mellow bronze roastiness, and a kind of limitless friendliness. Possibly the outer limits of complexity are embedded in here somewhere, but right now my heart is melted by the enveloping embrace. As the wine exhales in the glass it gets saltier and grainier, but it never stops glowing. You never knew that affirmation could be so tender, or tenderness be so affirming.”
This is the only listing in the USA today!
Schloss Gobelsburg Langenlois Gruner Veltliner, Kamptal 2016 750ML ($31.95) $26 pre-arrival special
Terry Theise note: “I was wary. Yet another wine? Sure, I understand this is a “village” wine to lead in to the Crus coming up, and I appreciate how Michi didn’t want to jump from the negoç wine directly to Steinsetz. But whew, we got a lot of skus as it is…The first sip demolished my concerns. It contains young-vines juice from the sites Redling, Thal, Lamm (!), Renner and Grub, which makes those wines even better. This is more “physical” and earthy than the above—“like an AOC chicken” I wrote—plus wild lavender and other dark flavors, boxwood, balsam, Timut peppers and guava. Yet as it feints toward sternness it finishes with a giggle of freshness (and a chortle of charm); a perfect mid-weight GV prototype.”
This is the only listing in the USA today!
Schloss Gobelsburg Lamm Gruner Veltliner Reserve Erste OTW Lage, Kamptal 2016 750ML ($69.95) $59 pre-arrival special
Terry Theise note: “Lamm as a rule is buckwheat-y, rusky, savory but not thick, like a vegetable-veal stock with barley, yet oddly also like lamb itself. (“Lamm” doesn’t mean lamb, but is rather a dialect word for “loam.”) It is a great wine though virtually without fruit per se. Its poise of gloss and power, intensity and outline, mass and transparency are emblems of the paradox without which no wine is truly great. In 2016 it’s a focused powerhouse of almost eucalyptus penetration. If Renner commences the birds to sing, Lamm commences the wolves to howl. More sheer assertion here, a determined affect, whereas Renner wants merely to sing.”
This is the only listing in the USA today!
Schloss Gobelsburg Steinsetz Gruner Veltliner Reserve Erste OTW Lage, Kamptal 2016 750ML ($37.95) $28 pre-arrival special
Terry Theise note: “It grows ever more gracious and complex as the vineyard ages; the old radishy-minty briskness is still present but now aligned to a new juiciness and starchy jasmine-rice flavors. This rippling flow of the ‘16s is almost poignantly lovely in the context of the peppery snap of a wine like this.”
Schloss Gobelsburg Renner Gruner Veltliner Reserve Erste OTW Lage, Kamptal 2016 750ML ($49.95) $39 pre-arrival special
Terry Theise note: “The vineyard lies at the foot of the Gaisberg, on eroded gneiss with a lot of paragneiss, mica and amphibolite, all under a blanket of loess. Its wines are as good as the Lamm, which is a warmer site giving wines of greater amplitude and stature. Yet Renner’s quality of flavor and complexity of nuance are incomparable, and I often have it next to the Lamm just to make sure I’m not being diddled by my subjective preference for minerality. This ’16 smells glorious. Big surprise! It’s completely stunning, and it leads to a palate that’s fervidly spicy and texturally lush; the minerality is swollen and the wine is as peppery as I can remember.”
This is the only listing in the USA today!
Schloss Gobelsburg Schlosskellerei Riesling, Kamptal 2016 750ML ($19.95) $16 pre-arrival special
Terry Theise note: “As always, this is stiffer and more pointed than the sibling GV; correct and scrupulous but with a phenolic nip that real dry-wine lovers will relish.”
Schloss Gobelsburg Tradition Riesling Reserve, Kamptal 2015 750ML ($59.95) $49 pre-arrival special
Terry Theise note: “Again like its brother GV, this has a loving aroma, and wow—this is really a masterly wine, higher relief and more angles than the GV but similarly kind and affectionate; salty and mineral. Drink it with someone you love; otherwise you will miss her and all you’ll feel is triste.”
This is the only listing in the USA today!
Schloss Gobelsburg Gaisberg Riesling Reserve Erste OTW Lage, Kamptal 2016 750ML ($44.95) $36 pre-arrival special
Terry Theise note: “Gaisberg for me is always a moonlight wine, as if somehow the grapes ripened at night when the moon is waxing. The ’16 is piquant, “white” and cool and silvery, yet also with a certain creaminess, leading, again, to a firm adamant finish. These don’t
yield.”’
This is the only listing in the USA today!
Schloss Gobelsburg Zobinger Heiligenstein Riesling Reserve Erste OTW Lage, Kamptal 2016 750ML ($69.95) $59 pre-arrival special
Terry Theise note: “Also quite obdurately young, with primary fruit (and fermentation) aromas still tangible. It seems to be the ground Moroccan spices side of Heiligenstein, less smoke and “fruit” but more sand and dark-meat chicken. But this could change completely in the next few months.”
This is the only listing in the USA today!
Schloss Gobelsburg Zobing Riesling, Kamptal 2016 750ML ($37.95) $28 pre-arrival special
Terry Theise note: “This is racy and herbal, but not exactly juicy; more of a stretched stony-fennelly tautness, ore and nettle; brisk but not brusque, with a mizuna snap on the finish.”
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
The next best price is $31.90
Schloss Gobelsburg Gobelsburger Zweigelt, Kamptal 2015 750ML ($17.95) $14 pre-arrival special
Terry Theise note: “As always this wine is civil, genial, smart and delicious; the ’15 shows less dust and more sweet fruit than some vintages.”
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
The next best price is $17.40
Weingut Hirsch
Johannes Hirsch is nothing if not a forward thinker. One of the first to move to screwcaps for all his wines (they’re aging well, don’t worry) Hirsch is a big proponent of hyper-mineral wines that are made in stainless and capture nuance with a precision that’s unmatched in the region. If you like compact, chiseled Riesling and Gruner Veltliner, these are your wines.
Weingut Hirsch Wines Arriving in October
Weingut Hirsch ‘Hirschvergnugen’ Gruner Veltliner, Kamptal 2015 750ML ($21.95) $17 pre-arrival special
David Schildknecht–Vinous 89 points “An effusive nose and succulent though firm palate combine Riesling-like white peach, apple and lime with classic Grüner Veltliner snap pea, white pepper, and a hint of lilac. Expansive yet (at 11.5 percent alcohol) buoyant, this softens on the finish after delivering a bright initial attack, but remains tangy and consummately refreshing, with hints of iodine and saliva-liberating salinity adding to its appeal. This cuvée will continue through 2016 to incorporate some fruit from a friend who farms biodynamically in a portion of the Weinviertel not far north of Hirsch’s estate. For many years, this bottling was known as “No. 1” in the US and as Trinkvergnügen (“drinking pleasure”) in other markets, where it appeared with often hilarious art labels suggesting the delight that an elk (Hirsch) took in imbibing its contents. In connection with the estate’s new label design, the wine has been renamed, and will now appear in the US labeled simply as Grüner Veltliner.”
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
Weingut Hirsch ‘Kammern’ Gruner Veltliner 2015 750ML ($29.95) $24 pre-arrival special
David Schildknecht–Vinous 91 points “This cuvée, formerly (and, as Hirsch readily grants, misleadingly) labeled “Heiligenstein” because that name can also designate a Grosslage, is possessed of tangy freshness of apple and lime, an incredibly active sense of crystalline mineral impingement, transparency to greenhouse-like flower and foliage nuances, and invigorating nips of white pepper on a refreshing yet richly ripe finish. True, that description seems to fit Riesling more than Grüner Veltliner. But an earthy undertone of beet emerges with air to accompany the crunch and piquancy of which this beauty has absolutely no shortage. And while there is a flattering hint of textural creaminess, this wine’s sense of clarity and animation are also remarkable for the vintage. If one bears in mind that this cuvée is dominated by lesser lots from Grub, Lamm and Renner, then its sheer quality might not be so surprising. But as for its vintage-atypical personality, an attempt to explain that would have Hirsch taking us back to biodynamics and other imponderables.”
Terry Theise note “This replaces what used to be called “Heiligenstein,” which was confusing because there is also a Grosslage with that name. Our newly named fella is the bleed-off from Lamm, Grub and Renner, and this is among the best iterations of this wine ever. It’s silky again—this seems to be a facet of Hirsch—plus spritzy and leesy and nubby; straw and hay and brown rice, pointed and thready, sweet grain and grasses. A wine of the open air, one of those days it just smells good out. Rusky finish to an expressive wine.”
Weingut Hirsch Renner Gruner Veltliner Erste OTW Lage, Kamptal 2015 750ML ($44.95) $36 pre-arrival special
David Schildknecht–Vinous 92-93 points “Last tasted from tank, this smells esterously and sweetly of ripe quince, lychee, honeydew and caramelized parsnip, almost as if it were a blend incorporating Chenin Blanc and Gewürztraminer. A glossy and enveloping midpalate delivers a luscious reprise of the aforementioned elements, accompanied by seductive inner-mouth chamomile perfume, while alkaline and mossy notes lend intrigue to the soothingly sustained finish.”
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
Weingut Hirsch Lamm Gruner Veltliner Erste Lage OTW Reserve Trocken, Kamptal 2015 750ML ($69.95) $49 pre-arrival special
Grapelive 94+ points “Johannes Hirsch’s Lamm Gruner is truly majestic. It’s a dense, dry and powerful Gruner Veltliner that is comparable to a Grosses Gewächs; it’s a gorgeous single Grand Cru trocken white with tremendous class and pedigree. Lamm has to be considered one of the greatest vineyards in Austria, and this wine shows why! This 2015 Lamm is richly and heavenly textured with silky finesse and vital energy, hiding its powerful engine under a velvet cushion with stunning concentration and the purest minerality with layers of lemon/lime, minty almond oil, white anise, white plum and crushed stones. The vineyard Lamm is set on a core of loess and mica with a sandy/brown rocky top soil which in years like 2015 give weight and depth, without sweetness or high alcohols, meaning you can have a masterpiece like this one is. This wine when open, transmits joyous harmony, pleasure throughout and subtly sprinkles in earth, spice and even a sweet/meatiness. It’s beautiful detailed and nervy or cat-like in a smooth leopard kind of way. This is greatness in the glass. Drink this Gruner Cru over the next 5 to 10 years, and be sure to check out all of the Hirsch 2015’s!”
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
Weingut Hirsch Zobinger Gaisberg Riesling, Kamptal 2015 750ML ($69.95) $49 pre-arrival special
David Schildknecht–Vinous 93-94 points “The haunting, esterous nose suggests rowan and white peach accompanied by kirsch and blueberry distillates. Firmer in feel than the corresponding Heiligenstein but bursting with midpalate flavor, this finishes with downright reverberative intensity; eye-watering brightness such as one least expects from 2015, not to mention mouthwatering salinity and consummate sheer refreshment. It seems to leave behind a load of crystalline stone and an alkaline residue you’ll have to scrape from your teeth.”
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Weingut Hirsch Heiligenstein Riesling Erste Lage, Kamptal 2015 750ML ($69.95) $49 pre-arrival special
David Schildknecht–Vinous 93-94 points “Last tasted from tank, slightly ahead of its July bottling, this leads with effusive and alluring scents of buddleia and freesia. The palate impression is oily, rich, peachy and nutty, but remains transparent to crystalline nuances and incorporates inner-mouth echoes of heady floral perfume. Peach kernel piquancy and smoky, alkaline notes reminiscent of Loire Chenin Blanc add counterpoint to the lusciously lingering, at once soothing, shimmering and vibrantly stimulating finish. One could long for the brightness and mouthwatering scallop-like briny sweetness of the 2014, whose rating I would now upgrade by a point from last year’s assessment, but this gorgeous 2015 will provide years of self-indulgence and fascination, especially if followed in parallel with the evolving 2014 and 2013.”
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The average price is $56
Weingut Hirsch Zobing Riesling, Kamptal 2015 750ML ($29.95) $24 pre-arrival special
David Schildknecht–Vinous 90 points “Fresh apple, lime and vintage-typical honeydew melon are mingled with bittersweet gentian and iris perfume, crushed stone, iodine, and pungent green herbs in this firm but infectiously juicy performance whose sustained finish leaves the palate lightly shaken and profoundly refreshed.”
Terry Theise note “The structure is what I call “horizontal,” but if you accept a wine that doesn’t jab at you, this has regions of herbs, smoke and irises, and a suggestive and fine, smoky finish.”
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Weingut Hiedler
Terry Theise describes the Hiedler wines as decidedly “analog” and we know what he means. These are wines that are chewy, rich and warm-toned. Compared to more modern producers’ compact and mineral wines, these feel savory and fleshy, with power that’s obvious yet doesn’t correspond with any loss of drinkability. They’re throwbacks in a good way.
Weingut Hiedler Wines Arriving in October:
Weingut Hiedler ‘Loess’ Gruner Veltliner, Kamptal 2016 750ML ($21.95) $18 pre-arrival special
Terry Theise note: “Among the starter-GVs I offer, this one is the creamiest, and I’d suggest it for the taster who isn’t sure he “likes Veltliner.” The ’16 is charming and fluid, lentilly and savory, not as opulent as the ’15 but much richer than the ’14”
Weingut Hiedler Ried Kittsmanberg Gruner Veltliner Reserve Erste OTW Lage, Kamptal 2016 750ML ($44.95) $36 pre-arrival special
Terry Theise note: “It’s always been the blue-eyed child in a family of brown eyes, a kind of neo-classical structure with Delphic columns and strong muscular lines. This vintage is also stern and serious and powerful, nettle-y and peppery, but right now it’s all yin, and I’m waiting to see if a sweet fruit develops.”
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Weingut Hiedler Ried Thal Gruner Veltliner Reserve Erste OTW Lage, Kamptal 2016 2016 750ML ($29.95) $24 pre-arrival special
Terry Theise note: “A superb vintage for this! Swollen, exotic aromas suggest Semillon or Viognier as much as GV, but the palate is markedly
Weingut Hiedler Langenlois Riesling, Kamptal 2016 750ML ($24.95) $21.90 pre-arrival special
Terry Theise note: “The name has shifted from Urgestein to the village-designation, but the wine is the same as before. The ’16 is a total sweetheart; iris and white lilac, lacy and winsome yet spicy and herbal; companionable and articulate and abidingly flavory, gliding between marjoram-sorrel and iris and other spring flowers.”
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Weingut Hiedler Steinhaus Riesling Reserve Erste OTW Lage, Kamptal 2016 750ML ($37.95) $28 pre-arrival special
Terry Theise note: “WTF is it with this site? Is there a more remarkable Riesling anywhere in the world?? The wines are like some hybrid of Albariño, Chenin and Sauv-Blanc, herbal, limey, sorrel, aloe vera, hyacinth and herbs. It is my subjective fave among Ludwig’s Rieslings. The site is steep with myriad little terraces, amphibolite and gneiss higher up, loess lower down, giving a Riesling for people who love Scheurebe, or you might say it’s Riesling having birthday sex. For me this is a not-to-be-missed wine in this offering because it gives you all its warm-hearted kinky generosity for a reasonable price. Fragrances are refined, lime and verbena, but the palate is explosive, completely delicious and almost shatteringly complex; hyperactive interplay of herbs, ripe citrus, exotic fruit all blasted together in a Hadron-collider buzz of life-force, a twitching spazzy dance of herbal ripeness. No one—no damn one on earth could have made a Riesling like this. Give it up for individuality! And take a deep bow Mr. Hiedler.”’’
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Weingut Hiedler Reid Kogelberg Riesling Reserve Erste OTW Lage, Kamptal 2016 750ML ($49.95) $39 pre-arrival special
Terry Theise note: “A relatively high-elevation site on mica-schist and amphibolite, the wine is firm and aristocratic, standing at attention. It reminded me of Rüdesheimer Berg, actually. Not so much minerals as rocks and not so much rocks as BOULDERS. It isn’t in the least austere—it has a ton of flavor, grill-marks and shoe-polish and physalis, and for all it’s an upstanding-citizen it is also generous.”
Weingut Hiedler Reid Gaisberg Riesling Reserve Erste OTW Lage, Kamptal 2016 750ML ($44.95) $36 pre-arrival special
Terry Theise note: “For me the class of the ’16 Hiedler Rieslings – a Heiligenstein was in some trough, though the “cannabis” aroma Ludwig Jr.noted was certainly “interesting…” But this Gaisberg is a riot of white flowers and honeysuckle, leading into a juicy minty palate, replete with mineral as a side-note in a stream of lavish yet focused fruit; Asian pear, mirabelle, strawberry. You can call it exquisite; I won’t argue.”
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Good Things Come to Those Who Wait
Two Classic Vintage Wines
Just Arrived
There are only a few things that connect Dal Forno Valpolicella and Trimbach’s “Frederic Emile” Riesling. First of all, they’re great wines, made by masters of their respective appellations. These are wines that age and become transcendent with time—studies in the majesty of the Veneto and Alsace, respectively. Quantities are limited and we doubt we’ll be able to get any more of either in soon.
Dal Forno Romano Vigneto Monte Lodoletta Valpolicella Superiore, Veneto 2010 750ML ($99.95) $89 special
Wine Advocate 95 points “The 2010 Valpolicella Superiore Monte Lodoletta is more precise and focused compared to the 2011 edition that I tasted at the estate at the same time. This was not an easy vintage in Valpolicella compared to other parts of Italy that enjoyed a classic growing season. Instead, this Northern corner of Italy suffered from heavy rains and some hail damage. Overall yields were lower as a result. But the wine sings in terms of its brightness and aromatic intensity today. The expressive bouquet covers all the bases from black fruit to spice to drying mineral or flint. All of these elements conspire to bring robust flavors together with smooth and seamless transitions.”
F E Trimbach Riesling Cuvee Frederic Emile, Alsace 2002 750ML ($79.95) $69 special
Wine Advocate 92 points “The superbly-concentrated 2002 Riesling Frederic Emile is now on the market – still a touch austere, but with strikingly refined complexity and sheer mineral mass. Broth-like carnal and chalky traits here put one in mind of Chablis. Here is a wine to strain through your teeth, and one possessed of vivacious, ripe acids, with lemon, grapefruit and faintly bitter black fruit notes over a foundation of chalk, leading to a long, juicy finish. Give this another year in your cellar and for it to be worth following for at least another decade thereafter.”
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