October 7 Newsletter

Wine Spectator 95 points #20 Top 100 2012 “Elegant, with a deep purple color and complex, refined flavors of dark currant, ginger, blackberry and dark plum. Boysenberry and licorice notes chime in as well, lingering on the suave and silky finish. Fruity and complex. Best from 2016 through 2034.”

Short supply- limit 12 bottles per customer please
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Wine Advocate 92 points  “A superb entry level effort that has not only layers of fruit and texture, but solid back-end structure, the 2010 Red Wine is a declassified blend of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon, yet has 15% Merlot and a splash of Malbec, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc in there as well. Up-front, perfumed and intense, it offers up spice-laced red and black fruits, toast, cedar, vanilla and hints of chocolate to go with a full-bodied, mouth-filling and voluptuously textured palate. Lacking the polish and elegance that can be found in this estate’s upper tier efforts, it nevertheless has superb fruit, ripe tannin and serious length. Enjoy it while you wait for this estate’s other wines to mature. Drink now-2020.”

Wine Advocate 97 points “Even more concentrated, structured and dense than the Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Galitzine Vineyard (99% Cabernet Sauvignon and 1% Merlot all from the Red Mountain AVA) delivers an incredible array of black currant, dark chocolate, cedar, tobacco and assorted spring flower-like nuances that give way to a massively concentrated, tannic and structured 2010 that has brilliant mid-palate depth, integrated acidity and a pure, detailed and energetic texture that carries through the finish. As with the 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon, this is more fun to taste than to drink presently and needs 5-6 years or more of bottle age to round into form. It too will have two to three decades or more of ultimate longevity.”

Antonio Galloni 96 points “The flagship 2002 Brut Clos des Goisses is simply stunning in this vintage. Seamless, ripe and beguiling, the 2002 is pure harmony in the glass. Dried pears, apricots, flowers, red berries and spices are some of the many notes that inform this towering, aristocratic wine. At once vertical yet endowed with serious length, the 2002 stands out for its breathtaking balance and overall sense of harmony. Layers of fruit built to the huge, creamy finish. This is a great showing from Philipponnat.”

John Gilman 91 points “Clotilde Davenne is a full-time winemaker at a well-known Chablis estate, but she moonlights on her small, 8.5 hectare Crémant de Bourgogne project in the Yonne. Many of her vines are quite old, and it shows in the intensity of flavor in her wines. Her non-vintage Extra Brut is really very fine, offering up a very Champagne-like nose of green apple, pink grapefruit, a beautifully complex base of limestone, warm bread and a touch of lime peel in the upper register. On the palate the wine is medium-full, bright and bouncy, with a fine core of fruit, impressive complexity, frothy mousse (which is decidedly more elegant than some Grower Champagnes I sampled for this report!) and a long, crisp and soil-driven finish. I would be very surprised if a wine this well-balanced did not age extremely well. This is truly outstanding sparkling wine and an absolute steal! 2012-2020.”.

Burghound 88 points “A very fresh and expressive nose of red and blue pinot fruit with pepper and earth hints leads to rich, delicious and nicely complex middle weight flavors that offer good persistence and only a mild touch of rusticity on the sappy finish. This should be approachable, and enjoyable, young if desired”

Stephen Tanzer 90-92 points “(94% grenache, with mourvedre, syrah and bourboulenc):  Bright purple.  High-pitched aromas of cherry, licorice, cracked pepper and lavender.   Dense, spicy and chewy in texture, showing wound-up dark fruit and candied licorice character and a hint of bitter chocolate.  Finishes smoky, spicy and long, with gentle tannins adding grip.”

Robert Parker 92-94 points “More licorice, garrigue, damp earth, truffle and spice box notes are present in the dark plum/ruby-colored 2011 Chateauneuf du Pape La Guigasse. Beefy, rich and impressive, this meaty-styled 2011 will age easily for 10-12 years.”

Stephen Tanzer 91-93 points “Bright ruby.  Intense, perfumed aromas of red berries, minerals and smoky garrigue.  Offers juicy raspberry and cherry flavors and a sexy note of lavender pastille, with a late kick of white pepper adding lift.  Closes with very good clarity and length, showing only a hint of tannins.  This wine will be very appealing soon after release.”

Wine Spectator 90 points “Very solid, with mouthwatering pomegranate, red currant and bitter cherry flavors supported by briary structure. A piercing chalky note marks the finish. Drink now through 2015. 612 cases imported.”

Wine Advocate 94 points “Of course, the Nebbiolos are nothing to sneeze at. The 2010 Barbaresco Valgrande, on the other hand, delivers a heightened sense of elegance and feminine restraint. The bouquet is redolent of cola, tar, blue flower, rosehip with faint hints of exotic spice. The tight grip of the tannins–firm without being astringent–gives this wine the attributes needed for longer cellar time. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2026”

Wine Spectator 88 points “Lightly juicy, this elegant red offers light, supple tannins alongside flavors of ripe cherry, spice box, black raspberry and hints of dried herb, graphite and leather. Drink now through 2015.” 

Josh Raynolds 91 points “Vivid ruby-red.  Spicy red berries, herbs and Asian spices on the nose.  Fresh and juicy, with energetic redcurrant and raspberry flavors underscored by smoky minerals.  Shows impressive energy and structure, finishing clean and brisk, with slow-building tannins and lingering sweetness.”

Josh Raynolds 91 points “Bright red.  High-pitched, spicy aromas of red berries and pungent flowers are complemented by a subtle Asian spice nuance.  Sappy and incisive, offering light-bodied raspberry and bitter cherry flavors that take on weight and sweetness with air.  Shows real energy on the finish, which features fine-grained tannins and a tangy, refreshingly bitter blood orange flourish.”

Robert Parker 98 points “The 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Grand Vin opens with the most beguiling bouquet imaginable. Freshly cut flowers, mint, cinnamon and licorice all make an appearance as this vivid, beautifully delineated wine opens up in the glass. A model of total finesse and elegance, the 2009 wraps around the palate with what feels like endless layers of aromas and flavors. This totally seamless, polished Cabernet Sauvignon is virtually impossible to resist today, but it will be even better in another few years. The 2009 is 96% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Merlot and 1% Cabernet Franc. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2039. Kapcsandy’s 2009s have developed beautifully over the last year.”

Josh Raynolds 91 points “Light, bright gold.  An intensely perfumed bouquet evokes fresh orange, green apple, anise and white flowers, with spice and less nuances adding complexity and lift.  Zesty and impressively precise, with excellent clarity to its citrus and orchard fruit flavors.  Picks up weight with air while maintaining its vivacity; the finish is dry, chalky and very long.  This Champagne’s balance is very impressive.”

Antonio Galloni 94 points “The NV (2008) Reflet d’Antan is incredibly delicious. At once rich yet weightless, it embodies a sense of pure aesthetic beauty that is hard to do justice to with mere words. Rich, burnished overtones develop in the glass, giving the wine additional volume, yet the Reflet d’Antan remains gracious and impeccably polished. Hints of almond, spice and orange peel add elements of exoticism. Bérèche’s Reflet d’Antan remains one of the most unique and compelling wines in Champagne. Reflet d’Antan is a perpetual solera, based on the 2008 vintage in this release. This bottle was disgorged in October 2012. Dosage was 6 grams per liter.”

Antonio Galloni 93 points “The 2002 Extra Brut Millesime is a rich, broad shouldered wine graced with tons of fruit. Vinification in French oak barriques gives the wine considerable depth, volume and spiciness. Layers of ripe, expressive varietal fruit flow from this rich, dramatic Champagne. A caressing, multi-dimensional finish rounds things out in style. As good as this is – and it is outstanding – I prefer Geoffroy’s wines made in steel. The blend is 60% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay and 5% Pinot Meunier, with 2 grams per liter of dosage”

Wine Spectator 95 points “This is subtle and complex, showing blackberry, fresh tobacco and light vanilla, with a hint of Indian spices. Full-bodied, with super well-integrated tannins and a finish that lasts for minutes. Refined and classy. The best modern wine from this producer. Best after 2015.”

Robert Parker 97 points “Performing considerably better than it did prior to bottling, the 2010 Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf du Pape is one of the all-time great Vieux Telegraphes I have tasted in the last 3+ decades. I believe it is even superior to the 2007, which I had several weeks ago. The 2010 boasts a dense purple color along with a sumptuous bouquet of spring flowers, boysenberries, black cherries, black currants, nori (the sushi seaweed wrapper), black olives, licorice and pepper. This full-bodied, meaty, thick, juicy effort possesses a boatload of tannin, but it also has incredible concentration. More massive than I remember from last year, it has put on considerable weight and intensity. Forget it for 3-4 years, and drink it over the following 25-30 years. Kudos to Daniel and Frederic Brunier! “

Wine Advocate 94 points “The 2009 Barbaresco Asili caresses the palate with soft, open fruit and a resonant personality that is quite striking. The essence of red berries, rose petals and sweet spices blossom in the glass. This is an especially vibrant style for the year, with excellent freshness, color and balance. Firm tannins support a highly attractive, delineated finish. The 2009 should be an absolute beauty in another few years, once the tannins soften. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. I was deeply impressed with the wines I tasted from Ca’del Baio this year. As always, the house style favors a juicy, fruit-forward expression of Nebbiolo.”

Antonio Galloni 95+ points “The 2008 Barolo Cascina Francia possesses gorgeous inner perfume, layers of sublime fruit and fabulous overall balance. Plums, dark cherries and licorice are followed by darker notes of graphite and tar as the wine opens up in the glass. Today, the 2008 is much less expressive than it has been the many times I have tasted it from barrel. It will be interesting to see how the 2008 develops and whether it puts on weight or remains more of a mid-weight, gracious Barolo. Either way, it is fabulous.”

Josh Raynolds 94 points “80% tempranillo, with garnacha, mazuelo and graciano):  Dark ruby.  An intensely perfumed nose displays cherry-cola, cassis, licorice and woodsmoke, with a sexy floral quality and very good focus.  Juicy, penetrating dark fruit flavors are given spine by tangy acidity and pick up bitter chocolate and spicecake nuances with air.  Supple tannins add shape to the very long, sappy, smoke-accented finish.  This is still a baby.”

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John Gilman 90 points  “The 2011 Clos des Guettes blanc is again a very pretty wine, with that telltale touch of pastry cream on both the nose and palate that indicates the malo was partially blocked here. The stylish and inviting bouquet is a lovely mélange of apple, orange, crème patissière, stony minerality and a touch of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and quite driven by its underlying minerality, with snappy acids and very fine length and grip on the youthful finish. This is very tasty, but will want a year or two in the cellar to fully blossom…”

John Gilman 91+ points “The 2011 Jadot white Burgundy village wines are exceptionally strong in this vintage, and the Chassagne AC looks to be the pick of the litter! The deep and excellent bouquet offers up a classic mélange of apple, orange, lime zest, deep soil tones, vanillin oak and a smoky topnote. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, young and very deep, with a lovely sense of reserve, crisp acids and a very long, poised and laser-like finish of superb length and grip. The domaine has really been making an effort to produce better and better wines at the village wine level and these 2011s show that the effort has really paid off! A superb wine.”

John Gilman 91 points “The 2011 Meursault AC from Maison Jadot was really singing at the time of my visit and should prove to be an admirable value in this vintage. The very stylish nose offers up a complex base of apple, pear, tangerine, lightly-toasted almonds, spring flowers, chalky soil tones and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, crisp and complex, with fine focus and backend bounce, a very good core, zesty acids and excellent focus and grip on the very long and well-balanced finish. A fine, fine village wine”

Burghound 89-91 points “There is enough reduction present to render the nose hard to assess but the underlying fruit appears to be ripe. There is very fine volume and very good mid-palate concentration as the extract really coats the palate while simultaneously buffering the moderately firm acid spine on the seductively textured, clean and attractively dry finish. As is so often the case with this wine, it is an excellent villages and well worth considering.”

Burghound 89-91 points  “This is also notably ripe with aromas of dried yellow orchard fruit and hints of the exotic along with soft floral nuances. There is noticeable wood on the opulent and exceptionally rich and solidly well-concentrated flavors that possess good muscle on the palate coating finish. This is not an elegant wine but it does offer plenty of character.”

Burghound 92-95 points “Like the Montrachet, this is also presently quite aromatically reticent with its aromas of lemon/lime, wet stone and Granny Smith apples that are trimmed in a subtle application of warm oak. The equally expansive, taut and well-muscled broad-shouldered flavors possess an ample amount of dry extract and intensity on the driving finish that exhibits a faint saline character. I very much like the intensity here as well as the very dry backend and this should be superb if allowed adequate cellar time.”

John Gilman 95 points “The 2011 Bâtard-Montrachet from Louis Jadot is another brilliant wine in the making, soaring from the glass in a deep and very youthful aromatic blend of apple, lime zest, tangerine, complex soil tones, a touch of iodine and a gentle base of new wood. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and very powerfully-built, with a rock solid core, snappy acids and stunning focus and grip on the very young, structured and magical finish. A very pure and racy example of young Bâtard-Montrachet that has been built to last!…” Burghound 92-95 points “(from Puligny fruit). A ripe and highly expressive nose of acacia blossom, white peach and a pretty array of citrus aromas trimmed in enough wood toast to notice gives way to solidly rich and imposingly full-bodied flavors brimming with dry extract that confers a wonderfully textured, indeed almost chewy mouth feel onto the palate coating yet markedly dry finish. This is extraordinary in its ability to deliver such impressive size and weight while retaining such fine precision. This is very Bâtard but an elegant version”

Burghound 93-95 points “An ultra-pure and high-toned nose of wet stone, spiced pear and acacia blossom and green apple is also trimmed in just enough oak to notice. The markedly stony broad-shouldered and tautly muscular flavors possess almost painful intensity on the crystalline and explosively long finish. 2011 is a vintage where the Demoiselles is bigger than it typically is yet there is absolutely no loss of refinement or elegance.”

Burghound 94-97 points “(from both Chassagne and Puligny fruit). Here the nose is notably more reserved with aromas of citrus zest, spice, wood toast, fennel and spice hints. This is also a very imposingly-scaled wine with its big, muscular and wonderfully complex flavors that culminate in a long, focused and explosive finish of breathtaking length and intensity. This overtly powerful effort should reward at least a decade in the cellar and drink well for another. A ‘wow’ wine.”

Burghound 89-91 points “There is a floral element to the wild red cherry and raspberry suffused nose that introduces very round, supple, forward and generous flavors that possess a seductively textured mid-palate yet like the Clos des Ursules, tighten up quickly on the firm and serious finish that retains a fine sense of balance. This should benefit from 7 to 10 years of cellar time.”

Burghound 87-89 “This is slightly riper than the Savigny and more floral as well with its attractive mix of white orchard fruit and softly oaky aromas. There is plenty of flesh to the mid-palate as the enveloping middle weight flavors possess a seductive mouth feel, all wrapped in a forward, delicious and easy-to-like finish.”

Stephen Tanzer 90-93 points “Medium red.  Reticent aromas of redcurrant and flowers.  Sweet and suave but youthfully unevolved owing to the late malolactic fermentation.  Juicy, nicely delineated flavors of raspberry and rose petal.  Finishes with firm but sweet tannins and enticing lift.  This holds out considerable promise.”

Louis Jadot Pommard 2011 ($49.95) $41.90 special 24 bottles available

John Gilman 90 points “The Jadot team vinified the Gevrey AC in its entirety and this too, is a very strong village wine in 2011. The deep, quite red fruity and superb nose jumps from the glass in a mix of cherries, blood orange, grilled meats, mustard seed, dark soil tones and cedar. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, complex and very soil-driven, with excellent focus and balance, fine-grained tannins and very good length and grip on the backend. Another excellent village wine, and this too will receive a chunk of premier crus into the final blend before bottling!”

Burghound 87-89 points “An earthy and quite somber nose of dark berries, underbrush and cassis aromas slides into attractively round and supple flavors that possess good volume before culminating in a delicious if mildly rustic finish. The tannins are ripe and well-integrated and this is a classic Nuits villages in character and style.”

Stephen Tanzer 92-94 points “Good medium red. Red berries, coffee and mocha on the nose, with a note of blood orange emerging with air. Began large-scaled and spicy but rather inexpressive, but aeration brought greater sweetness of fruit and elegance, with a whiff of blood orange providing lift. Ultimately more expansive than the Estournelles but this wine will need at least a few years in the cellar following its release.”

Stephen Tanzer 93-96 points “Bright full red.  Multidimensional nose offers strawberry, raspberry, flowers, minerals, crushed stone and wild herbs.  Compellingly sweet and silky, with pungent peppery, spicy lift to the red berry, blood orange and mineral flavors.  A wine of great aromatic precision and persistence.  Saturates the entire palate on the very long, building back end, where fine-grained tannins melt into the fruit.”

Stephen Tanzer 91-94 points “(racked in late September): Good full red. Highly nuanced nose combines blueberry, licorice, pepper, spices and wild herbs, along with an almost medicinal pungency characteristic of this grand cru. Utterly primary on the palate, with uncompromising dryness to the flavors of black fruits and crushed rock. Tannic and youthfully tough today, but this is still recovering from the racking. “

Burghound 92-94 points “This is also sufficiently reduced that it is hard to read the nose but it would appear that the underlying fruit is notably ripe. There is an elegant mouth feel to the mineral-driven and admirably pure medium-bodied flavors that possess outstanding depth and length and the very firmly structured finish. This is a beautiful effort but note that it would best be purchased only by the very patient.”

Burghound 93-95 points “There is also enough oak influence to notice though not enough to materially detract from the high-toned and overtly spicy red currant, cherry and plum suffused nose. There is a lovely minerality to the supple, forward and refined middle weight plus flavors that possess a wonderfully refined mouth feel before culminating in a long, powerful, concentrated and palate drenching finish. While not truly a wine of finesse in the same sense as a fine Chambolle or Volnay, this is relatively subtle as the supporting tannins have the same fine grain as the best of these 2011s.”

Burghound 89-92 points “ A very toasty nose evidences a hint of tar on the mentholated nose both red and dark berry fruit and pungent earth aromas. There is good volume to the unusually supple, suave and smooth middle weight flavors that possess an opulent mouth feel as there is a plenitude of palate coating dry extract. There is a touch of warmth on the moderately austere, notably firm, robust and powerful finish that isn’t especially refined but it is impressively persistent.”

Stephen Tanzer 90-92 points “Medium red.  Distinctly cool aromas of medicinal red fruits and peppery herbs.  More saline than fruity on the palate, in a rather tightly wrapped style.  This went through its malolactic fermentation earlier than the Clos Vougeot and seems more backward today–not to mention less sweet than usual at this stage of its evolution.”

Stephen Tanzer 92-95 points “Good bright medium red.  Medicinal cherry liqueur, red licorice and spicy oak on the nose.  Then penetrating and intense but suave, with lovely sappiness to the flavors of raspberry, cranberry and flowers.  The grower Jadot buys this fruit from has recently added a vibrating sorting table, and converted entirely to new stainless steel fermentation tanks as of 2010.”

Burghound 93-95 points “Background notes of wood are discernible but stop short of being invasive as they still allow the restrained, cool and pure dark berry fruit and black cherry aromas to shine. Interestingly this is less overtly spicy as the Amoureuses at present though there is a genuinely gorgeous inner mouth perfume to the suave, round and polished middle weight plus flavors that possess plenty of underlying muscle and power on the hugely long, balanced and impressively complex finish. While clearly firmly structured, this is somewhat more forward and approachable than is typical for this wine.”

Stephen Tanzer 90-92 points “Medium red. Deep aromas of redcurrant, plum, licorice and flowers. At once supple and lively on the palate, showing a delicate grain and lovely floral lift to its red fruit flavors. The persistent, lightly saline finish leaves a light impression. This energetic wine is already long on personality.”

Stephen Tanzer 91-94 points “(15% vendange entier):  Good medium red.  Soil-driven aromas of raspberry, minerals, mocha, pepper and chocolate.  Very concentrated and complex but youthfully backward today, showing excellent energy to the flavors of raspberry, crushed stone, spices and flowers.  Finishes with captivating building sweetness.  A lot of potential here.”

James Suckling 97-98 points “A Sauternes with incredible purity and beauty. Full body, with lovely character of mangos, pineapple, papaya, and honey. Goes on for minutes. The purity in this wine is phenomenal. Spicy with dried mushroom and ash undertones. Gorgeous and clean. Bright. A more balanced 2001?”
Wine Advocate 96-98 points “The 2011 has a clear silvery gold hue, perhaps not quite as deep as I recall the 2010 last year. The bouquet is very fragrant and well-defined, with scents of wild honey, honeysuckle and a touch of vanilla. It is a refined, sedate and beautifully focused bouquet that does not need to show off. The palate displays superb weight in the mouth, even though at first it seems almost understated. Yet there is clearly a high level of spicy, botrytized fruit with notes of honey, orange zest and a touch of mandarin. There is no explosion on the finish; the 2011 is rather a lesson in control, complexity and nuance. It is utterly seductive” Wine Spectator 96-99 points “Blazingly pure, with pineapple, white peach, yellow apple and melon flavors that are remarkably light on their feet. Blanched ginger root, cherry blossom and light citrus notes dance through the finish. Displays awesome range and purity in a very stylish frame”
Stephen Tanzer 97-100 points “Bright yellow-gold. Captivating nose is marked by sexy lemony botrytis, white peach, mango, guava and saffron. Enters the mouth very dense but remarkably vibrant and pristine thanks to lively acidity, then turns richer and more unctuous in the mid-palate, displaying knockout flavors of fresh tropical fruit, white peach, white flowers, beeswax and wet stone. The finish is pure and extremely long. This amazing young Yquem, one of the finest in the last dozen years, perfectly combines elements of the fresher, more refined Yquems of the recent Dubourdieu years with the more exotic, opulent personality of the wines made under Alexandre de Lur Saluces. The harvest began on September 6 (only in 1893 did it begin earlier) with the young sauvignon blanc vines and even some semillon to preserve freshness. There were four tries in total, ending on October 5. General Manager Pierre Lurton told me that picking practically all the botrytized grapes very quickly in September was the key to guaranteeing a pure, fresh botrytis component. Sandrine Garbay, who has been maitre de chai at d’Yquem for 18 years, also believes this to be one of the top Yquems in recent memory, though it really doesn’t remind her of any previous Yquem vintage with possible exception of the 2001”

Time To Say Goodbuy 

Josh Raynolds 90 points “Pale salmon-skin color.  High-pitched scents of pink grapefruit, quince and white flowers, with a chalky mineral nuance gaining strength with air.  Shows very good energy and a light touch to its vibrant red berry and citrus zest flavors.  Closes on a brisk, spicy note, with very good focus and mineral-driven persistence.”