November 4th Newsletter

 November 4, 2013

Wine Enthusiast 93 points “this riserva from the legendary Rio Sordo vineyard offers intense underbrush aromas of truffle, pine forest, leather and balsamic notes. The palate has a core of juicy black cherries layered with cinnamon-spice and shows plenty of depth” Wine Spectator 92 points “Graphite and mineral aromas and flavors turn into cherry, licorice and sandalwood in this muscular, savory red, which is pungent and dense, with a tight-grained finish. Racy. Best from 2015 through 2027.” Wine Advocate 92 points “A picture perfect example of site, the 2008 Barbaresco Riserva Rio Sordo is classic Rio Sordo. Medium in body, it possesses a sweet, open bouquet and a relatively medium-bodied personality next to the rest of the wines in this range. A long, pointed finish rounds things out nicely. Overall, the 2008 is a pretty, nuanced wine with lovely detail, precision and class,…”

New Week  New Arrivals 

It’s the texture; verrry comforting.

You press 16 tons and what do you get? Well, not much wine. 2012 a great vintage for Vincent F. however; natures force meets Vincent’s finesse.

Wine Advocate 97 points “On another level, the 2010 Estate Red Wine is something to behold! A blend of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon – yet with smaller portions of Merlot and Petit Verdot – aged in 75% new and 25% 1-year-old French oak barrels for 20 months, it has a decidedly dark fruit profile with Pauillac-like aromas of black raspberry, creme de cassis, coffee bean, graphite, mineral and toasted bread all emerging from the glass. Deep, rich and layered, with a full-bodied, concentrated and structured feel on the palate, it fleshes out beautifully with air and is up there with the creme de la creme of the vintage and region. It needs 2-3 years of bottle age (or more) and will have 20-25 years of evolution. Drink 2016-2035. Coming from an estate vineyard that’s located on the eastern edge of the Walla Walla Valley, off of Mill Creek Road and at an elevation of roughly 1,750 feet, these wines are made by Chris Figgins (of Leonetti) and show classic profiles. As the score suggests, this is one producer not to miss!”

Wine Spectator 93 points “Bold, rich and concentrated, focused on a dense core of blackberry, cherry, red and black licorice. Firmly tannic and chewy, with subtle earthy notes at the foundation. Best from 2014 through 2026”

Stephen Tanzer 93 points “Deep ruby.  Lovely floral lift to the aromas of blackberry, minerals, graphite, bitter chocolate and licorice.  Lush, broad and silky-smooth, with enticing sweetness and terrific verve to the black fruit flavors.  Finishes very long, with serious tannic spine and subtle sweetness. “

Wine Advocate 92 points “[$45 list] Evening Land’s 2010 Pinot Noir is simply beautiful. Dark red cherries, pepper, spices and new leather inform this juicy, supple Pinot. There is an inviting, textural finesse that is alluring. Here, too, the minerality and energy are striking. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2018.”

Wine Advocate 94 points “The 2009 Pinot Noir Occidental is gorgeous. Sweet, silky tannins frame an expressive core of fruit in this refined, subtle wine. The finish is refined and haunting. Shatter was a big issue here in 2009 and lowered yields significantly, but the positive side of that is that the wine has more than enough stuffing to handle its 100% new French oak with grace. This is a striking wine from Evening Land. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022.”

Wine Spectator 90 points “A bubbly with breadth and richness to its grapefruit, apple and honey aromas and flavors. Smooth and balanced, with a lively feel on the finish.”

Wine Spectator 94 points “A rich, smoky Champagne, with hints of marzipan and fennel seed accenting honeyed malt, bread dough, baked apple and gingersnap flavors. It’s all focused by intense acidity, which meshes beautifully into the layers of flavor and refined texture, with a lingering finish. Drink now through 2021.”

Wine Spectator 93 points ‘The bay leaf, alder and tobacco notes are well-defined, with a core of steeped plum, blackberry and black currant fruit sitting in reserve.  Offers lots of briary grip and a long singed iron edge on the finish.  Best from 2015 through 2025.  3,700 cases made.”

Wine Spectator 94 points “Delivers a blaze of cassis, steeped plum and blackberry fruit, tightly coiled with chalky minerality and backed by lilting bergamot, rooibos tea and blood orange notes.  Shows great grip on the finish, with acidity-driven cut and precision.  The better of two bottles tasted.  Best from 2015 through 2030.  375 cases made.”

Wine Spectator 95 points “Juicy bramble, plum skin, blackberry coulis and cassis notes show charcoal-studded grip, with a long, muscular finish that lets the bay leaf and ganache accents stretch out.  Surprisingly powerful for the vintage.  Best from 2015 through 2030.  167 cases made.”

Wine Spectator 96 points “Shows good range, with steeped pomegranate, bergamot, blackberry and raspberry fruit all melded together at the core, lined with bay lead, apple wood and singed cedar accents.  Picked up serious grip through the finish, with a mouthwatering briary edge adding serious length.  Best from 2025 through 2030.  100 cases made.”

Wine Advocate 92 points “The 2004 Le Clos du Chateau l’Oiseliniere Muscadet de Sevre et Maine Sur Lie is once again an impressive and unusually ripe and lush wine for its appellation, yet one that preserves vivid salinity and a somehow crystalline, ore-like and tactile sense of mineral enhancement that I otherwise associate with great whites of Austria’s Wachau. A stronger than (for this cuvee) usual citricity – suggestive of lemon, lime, and tangerine – lends this a vivacity and practically face-smacking (not to mention lip-smacking) brightness, and while there is palpable density present as well as the aforementioned sense of fullness and lushness, there is also a lovely sense of levity that helps reel you back in for the next unforgetable sip.”

Robert Parker 96 points “Take that quality and add additional layers of concentration, power, extract and wood, and you have the 2009 La Plus de La Fleur de Bouard. Only about 500 cases of this 100% Merlot are made. With notes of blueberry and blackberry liqueur intermixed with graphite and spring flowers, this wine is absolutely massive and not for everybody, but it is an example of what a conscientious and driven producer pushing the envelope can do in a satellite appellation such as Lalande de Pomerol. Moreover, I suspect it will last for at least two decades.”

Wine Spectator 93 points “Though dense tannins are still present, this is beginning to show the haunting floral essence of mature Nebbiolo. Light-footed, if muscular, with a long licorice and spice aftertaste. Drink now through 2024. 250 cases made.”

Wine Spectator 95 points “Powerful yet harmonious, this rich red delivers black cherry, licorice, fresh herb, smoke and mineral flavors that mingle seamlessly over firm, well-integrated tannins, while balsamic-tinged acidity drives the flavors through the long, spicy finish. Drink now through 2025.”

Josh Raynolds 93 points “(70% tempranillo, 20% garnacha, 7% mazuelo and 3% garciano; aged for 28 months in small oak barrels):  Opaque ruby.  Sexy, oak-spiced aromas of red- and blackcurrant, cherry and vanilla, with a bright floral accent.  Lush and palate-staining, offering intense dark berry preserve and cherry-cola flavors that become spicier with air.  Deep and rich but surprisingly lively, finishing with impressive energy and floral persistence.”

Josh Raynolds 95 points “(80% tempranillo, 15% garnacha, 3% graciano and 2% mazuelo):  Dark red.  A kaleidoscopic bouquet evokes candied red fruits, incense, pipe tobacco and potpourri, with hints of woodsmoke, leather and Asian spices gaining strength in the glass.  Silky and sweet, with intense raspberry liqueur and bitter cherry flavors that take a darker turn with air.  Tangy acidity adds lift and focus to a strikingly long, sappy finish.  This wine belies its age with its vivacity”

Wine Advocate 90-93 points “The 2009 Beaune Boucherottes (on the border with Pommard) shows gorgeous vibrancy in its dark wild berries, violets and sweet spices. The aromas and flavors literally explode on the mid-palate. A big, broad-shouldered wine, the Pommard impresses for its powerful, authoritative personality and superb balance. Sweet, balsamic nuances linger on the textured finish.”

Wine Spectator 91 points “Though the cherry flavor is bright and pure, there’s a woody component to this wine that lends a sweet spice note and dry tannins to the finish. Elegant and tight-grained. Best from 2015 through 2027. 170 cases imported”

Burghound 90-92 points “A high-toned and extremely fresh if somewhat muted nose of red currant, raspberry and cherry hints gives way to delineated and admirably pure flavors that possess a silky mouth feel before culminating in a linear, intense and beautifully persistent finish. Like the Avaux, this does not possess a lot of generosity to it at present yet the underlying material seems to suggest that it will develop ample amounts in time.”

Wine Advocate 90-92 points “The 2009 Beaune Clos des Couchereaux is impressive. Silky tannins frame a radiant, expressive core of fruit. This is a beautiful, refined Beaune that should drink well right out of the gate. Clean mineral notes frame the gorgeous finish, where floral notes add lift and freshness. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019.”

Wine Spectator 91 points “Bright and succulent, with a touch of oak lending spice accents to the candied cherry core. An elegant, lacy red, yet with intensity. Feels like it’s holding something back. Best from 2015 through 2027. 229 cases imported”

Burghound 91-93 points “An earthy, serious and relatively deeply pitched nose speaks of game, dark berry fruit and underbrush notes that also characterize the delicious, intense and quite serious medium weight plus flavors that possess excellent depth on the firmly structured and mouth coating finish. This should mature into an excellent Corton with 12 to 15 years of cellar time though at the same time, it will likely be approached after 7 to 8.”

Burghound 87-89 points “A pungent nose of warm earth and animale influences adds depth to the moderately toasty and menthol-infused red berry fruit aromas. There is good volume and plenty of character to the mildly rustic medium-bodied flavors that are shaped by ripe tannins and a delicious if still very backward finish.”

John Gilman 89+ points “The 2010 Gevrey AC was also one of the last to finish up malo in the cellars this year, but the wine was showing very good potential. The nose is a fine mélange of black cherries, cassis, coffee bean, fresh herb tones, woodsmoke and black minerality. On the palate the wine is fullish, long and complete, with a fine core, moderate tannins and very good length and grip on the tangy finish. This too will get a ‘booster’ of de-classified premier cru barrels and will probably merit a 90+ point score once that takes place.”

Burghound 87-89 points “A distinctly earthy yet quite pretty, indeed even somewhat perfumed nose of raspberry and cherry aromas leads to detailed, supple and delicious middle weight flavors where the tannins are only mildly rustic on the firm but not tough and slightly warm finish. This should offer 4 to 6 years of improvement.”

John Gilman 92+ points “The premier cru of Clos de la Barre is located immediately below the village center of Volnay, tucked in on the slope between les Angles to its north and Clos de la Bousse d’Or to its south. The 2010 from Maison Jadot is outstanding and another real sleeper to search out in this vintage. The classy and very precise bouquet offers up scents of cassis, dark berries, espresso, dark chocolate, a great base of complex minerality and just a hint of new oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and very pure on the attack, with impressive complexity, ripe tannins, a lovely core and impressive grip on the long and tangy finish. A beautiful bottle of Volnay in the making, the 2010 Jadot Clos de la Barre will need the better part of a decade to fully blossom and should age for a very long time”

~~~~~~~~

Wine Advocate 94 points “Readers will have to be especially patient with the 2008 Barolo Monprivato, a wine that has none of the early appeal of other recent vintages. Still very much closed in on itself, the 2008 possesses serious depth, power and structure, but those elements are suppressed by the recent bottling. Dried rose petals, crushed berries and mint are some of the nuances that flesh out on the powerful, imposing finish.” Wine Spectator 95 points “Detailed and fragrant, offering floral, strawberry, cherry, licorice and spice flavors, this is elegant and underlined by a strong mineral streak. Well-proportioned, picking up intensity and complexity on the long, savory finish. Extremely fresh and classy. Best from 2016 through 2035.”

The average listed price is $109 / bottle~~~~~~~~

David Schildknecht- The Wine Advocate 92 points “From a near-neighboring vineyard of the estate, the Evesham Wood 2011 Pinot Noir Illahe Vineyard leads with a terrific bouquet that incorporates not only fresh cherry and plum garlanded in bittersweet floral perfume and tinged with brown spices, but also a mouthwatering intimation of salted, herbed, marrow-rich beef stock. All of these elements come together on a clear, bright, infectiously juicy palate and lead to a vibrantly ringing not to mention invigorating and mouthwatering finish, in which toasted nuts, alkali and crushed stone also play minor but intriguing roles. As in all of the best wines I have enjoyed from this cellar over many years, there is buoyancy and almost white wine-like brightness and refreshment, yet with a combination of deeply carnal, spicy, and alluringly floral elements that in my experience only Pinot Noir or Syrah can deliver. The 250 cases of this beauty represent an incredible value, and their contents should be worth following through at least 2022.” 

Cameron Pinot Noir Abbey Ridge 2011 ($59.95) $49 special 

Wine Advocate 93 points “The 2004 Vina Ardanza is a blend of 80% Tempranillo and 20% Garnacha from 30-year-old vines in Fuenmayor and Cenicero. It is aged for 36 months in four-year-old American oak. It has a very enticing bouquet with dark cherry, Christmas cake, dried fig and espresso with fine delineation and bags of exuberance. The palate is medium-bodied with taut tannins, underpinned by a keen citric thread that cuts through the licorice-tinged, dark berry and allspice-tinged fruit with style. It is simply delicious on the bittersweet finish. Drink now-2020+”

The revered Monvigliero vineyard, in Verduno, Italy 

Antonio Galloni- Vinous 93 points “The 2009 Barolo is a great introduction to the wines of this historic estate. Plums, black cherries, menthol, licorice and sweet herbs all emerge from a layered, totally sensual Barolo loaded with class and pure personality. A bit juicier than normal, the 2009 offers lovely persistence and mid-palate pliancy all the way through to a creamy, expressive finish laced with sweet tobacco, herbs and cedar. There is a lot to like here.”

Antonio Galloni- Vinous 92 points “Another gorgeous wine, the 2009 Barolo Acclivi is one of the more delicate wines here, its considerable depth notwithstanding. Freshly cut flowers, mint licorice and spices are backed up by serious weight, which is quite unusual for the Acclivi. As readers can tell from this note, the Acclivi is a wine of beautiful contrasts. Firm, dusty tannins frame an insistent, beautifully articulated finish. In 2009, the Acclivi impresses for so many things, most importantly a sense of balance that is elusive in this vintage.”

Antonio Galloni- Vinous 95 points ‘Burlotto’s 2009 Barolo Vigneto Monvigliero is exceptional. A creamy, totally layered Barolo, the Monvigliero stands out for its texture. The use of whole clusters in fermentation – highly unusual in Piedmont – gives the 2009 a sense of aromatic lift and brightness that is quite welcome in this hot vintage. An intriguing mélange of tar, licorice and dried flowers leaves a lasting impression. The Monvigliero isn’t for everyone as sometimes it can be a bit eccentric, but in 2009 all the elements come together with impeccable grace. There is little doubt this is one of the wines of the vintage.’

~~~~~~~~ 

Antonio Galloni 96+ points “The 2005 Barolo Le Rocche del Falletto is a massive, towering Barolo loaded with tons of rich, primary fruit. The wine remains powerful, dense and muscular with superb length even if it is a smaller-scaled Barolo compared to previous great vintages. That said, when I came back to the wine after it had been in the glass for an hour or so, I found that the wine had grown remarkably. While the 2005 doesn’t have the explosive personality of the 2004 (rated 99+ points), it remains an awesome achievement in this vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2035”

~~~~~~~~

Robert Parker 91 points “This looks to be the strongest effort to date from the Dauriac-Rolland team. Deep, opaque purple-colored, with a tight but promising nose of truffles, licorice, underbrush, incense, and black fruits, this big, huge, dense, full-bodied Pomerol shows no compromising for readers looking for something immediately drinkable. As the French would say, a true vin de garde. This backstrapping, muscular wine is loaded, but patience is most definitely a virtue. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2022+.”

$79 is the lowest listed price in the USA