Monday Newsletter – July 28th

High above California’s Alexander Valley stand the towering Mayacamas Mountains, home to Stonestreet’s rugged Alexander Mountain Estate. Comprised of 400 separate vineyard blocks aligned with the contours of the mountain, the Estate is an intricate puzzle of peaks, valleys and ridges that create a broad spectrum of aspects and facings. Stonestreet is dedicated to fulfilling the promise of Alexander Valley’s exceptional and distinctive vineyards, with lean, well-draining soils and cooler temperature, producing fruit with smaller berries and more intense color and flavor. Traditional, Old World methods of hand harvesting, small barrel lot production, native yeast fermentation and bottling each wine unfiltered brings out the best in specific grape varieties and provides the quality framework for each Stonestreet wine.

Stonestreet Alexander Mountain Estate Bear Point Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 ($59.95) $49 special
Wine Enthusiast 94 points “At the age of three years, this Cabernet Sauvignon is still very tannic and closed. It has a solid core of black currants, with sweet oak and mineral complexities. The structure is exceptionally refined, and it’s crisp with acidity. A gorgeous wine to age for eight years, if not longer.”

Stonestreet Alexander Mountain Estate Bear Point Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 ($59.95) $49 special
Wine Advocate 92 points “The 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Monument is a beautiful wine. Dark cherries, mocha, plums, spices, mint, minerals and graphite are woven together in this effortless, totally captivating wine. The 2009 impresses for its nuance, clarity and precision. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2021. The Cabernets are all 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from the Alexander Mountain Estate. Weerts gives the Cabernets 18 months in French oak barrels, 40-90% new”

 

Stonestreet Alexander Mountain Estate Monument Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 ($37.95) $31.90 special
Wine Enthusiast 93 points “A lovely Cabernet, ripe and delicious, yet complex enough to hold your interest. It’s just beginning its journey in the bottle. Very dark in color, with hard tannins, it has an immense core of blackberries and cherries. Give it at least 6-8 years, but it could still be rocking in 2022.”

 

Stonestreet Alexander Mountain Estate Rockfall Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 ($89.95) $69 special
Wine Enthusiast 95 points “This is an awesome Cabernet, that’s so packed with blackberries and cassis, it blows your mind. The richness is superbly balanced by fine acidity and sweet, complex tannins that rein everything into a focused structure. Feels velvety, refined and ageable. Hold until 2018 and drink it for an additional decade or beyond.”

 

 

 

OREGON
Chapter 24 Two Messengers Pinot Noir 2012 ($29.95) $26 special
From the winery “Our goal with the Two Messengers is to explore the meeting point and harmony that makes wine so pleasurable. For 2012 that meant drawing from multiple sites and their various personalities. Together they forged a wine tasting like fresh red cherries scented with floral and forest floor notes. Sometimes the whole is greater than the sum of its parts.”

Chapter 24 The Flood Pinot Noir 2012 375ml ($31.95) $27 special
Chapter 24 The Flood Pinot Noir 2012 750ml ($61.95) $54 special
Stephen Tanzer 93 points “Vivid ruby.  Powerful aromas of dark berry preserves, cola, licorice and lavender are energized by a bright mineral flourish.  Palate-staining boysenberry and black raspberry flavors are given bite by a hint of blood orange.  Sweet and broad on the long, sappy finish, which repeats the floral note and shows just a trace of tannins.”

Chapter 24 The Last Chapter Pinot Noir 2012 ($99.95) $79 special
Stephen Tanzer 94 points “Vivid ruby-red.  Heady, exotically perfumed aromas of dark berry liqueur, cherry-cola, Asian spices and potpourri.  Densely packed yet lithe, offering palate-staining red and dark berry and spicecake flavors that gains sweetness and vivacity with air.  Distinctly fresh and supple on the gently tannic, incisive finish, which leaves notes of allspice and candied flowers behind.”

Patricia Green Ana Vineyard Pinot Noir 2012 ($49.95) $39 special
Josh Raynolds 93 points “Vivid ruby.  Pungent, deeply pitched aromas of musky red and dark berries, spicecake and sassafras, with a touch of smokiness in the background.  Fleshy and fruit-driven on entry, then firmer in the mid-palate, offering bitter cherry and blackberry flavors that are given depth by a licorice nuance.  Shows very good power and energy on the long, smoky finish, which is firmed by chewy tannins.  Give this one some patience, or at least some time in a decanter.  This wine is sourced from a section of the Olenik vineyard that’s planted to the Pommard clone.”

Patricia Green Durant Madrone Pinot Noir 2012($39.95) $33 special
Josh Raynolds 93 points “Bright ruby. Sexy, highly perfumed aromas of black raspberry, potpourri, star anise and cola. Densely packed, appealingly sweet red and dark berry flavors show liqueur-like depth, with juicy acidity and a zesty mineral nuance providing verve. A sexy oak spice note comes up with air and carries through a long, sappy, alluringly sweet finish, which shows supple, fully absorbed tannins.”

Lazy River Vineyard Pinot Gris Willamette Valley 2011 ($19.95) $11.90 special
From the winery “Redolent of tart pineapple and stone fruit, particularly apricot and golden plums, the Gris shows the distinct crispness characteristic of Lazy River wines. The palate has length – its flavors develop from a bright tropical symphony to a long-lived apricot and lychee body and a clean, apple-citrus finish. Pair the LRV Pinot Gris 2012 with raclette and fondue, fall-run chinook or a grilled pork chop.”

Lazy River Vineyard Pinot Noir Yamhill Carlton District 2007 ($29.95) $16 special
From the winery “This wine has proven itself with customers who continue to reorder. Well-structured with good tannins, good acids and wonderful fruit. Dr. Jay Miller of The Wine Advocate (90 points) noted that this particular vintage will blossom and drink well through 2019. He called it “a fragrant perfume of smoke, earth, and cherry blossoms.” ”

Lazy River Vineyard Pinot Noir Yamhill Carlton District 2009 ($37.95) $18 special
From the winery “This robust wine showcases the savory side of the versatile pinot noir grape with big, balanced flavors of soy sauce, truffles, dry earth, blackberries, and dried flowers on the palate. A long finish offers notes of barbecue smoke and charred meat. Ranked 15th best Oregon Pinot Noir by Portland Monthly”

WASHINGTON
Betz Besoleil Columbia Valley 2011 ($49.95) $39 special
Stephen Tanzer 92 points “(54% grenache, 15% cinsault, 12% each counoise and mourvedre and 7% syrah):  Moderately saturated bright medium red.  Sexy aromas of red berries, cherry, lavender and rose petal, plus a faint rocky quality.  Suave and weightless in the mouth, with bright red fruit and floral flavors complicated by dried thyme, lavender and pepper nuances.  Lovely juicy wine with excellent intensity and saline grip.  This is the first vintage of this bottling to include counoise, which Bob Betz says has contributed spiciness.”

Betz Syrah La Cote Rousse Red Mountain 2011 ($59.95) $49 special
Wine Advocate 92-95 points “($55) Always more structured and burly than the La Serenne, the 2011 Syrah La Cote Rousse is no exception and exhibits classic blackberry, currant, iron, wild herb and cracked pepper-like aromas and flavors to go with a medium to full-bodied, balanced and exceedingly pure mouthfeel. Also 100% Syrah, yet from the warmer Red Mountain AVA (which excelled in 2011), this elegant, yet concentrated Syrah will drink nicely for upwards of a decade. Drink now-2024.”

CALIFORNIA
Orin Swift “Machete” Red Wine 2012 ($59.95) $49 special
Winemaker Notes--“In the glass, deep, dark bluish-red hues can be seen with a band of ruby on the rim. Uplifted aromatics of ripe blackberries, mulled raspberries, acacia flowers, toasty oak, and herbal notes hit the nose in a pronounced way. Offering up robust flavors during the approach, the mid palate is exposed to an unadulterated array of crushed berries, dark chocolate, black fruits, and a tinge of creamy espresso. Finishing with principle, the glossy tannins are in alignment for immediate enjoyment or some time in the cellar too.”

FRANCE- BURGUNDY
Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits-St-George Les Roncieres Premier Cru 2009 ($99.95) $69 special
Burghound 91-93 points “Moderate wood influence does not unduly hamper the attractiveness of the otherwise fresh and bright earthy and high-toned red pinot fruit suffused nose. The rich and solidly structured medium-bodied flavors possess copious amounts of mid-palate sap, which is a good thing because the impressively persistent finish is firm to the point of being chewy. This is potentially the best example of the Chevillon Roncières that I have ever seen from cask though note that patience will be required.”

Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits-St-George Les Perrieres Premier Cru 2009 ($99.95) $69 special 
Burghound 90-93 points “A more elegant nose of ultra fresh though restrained red berry fruit and cassis blossom precedes rich, concentrated and palate staining mineral-driven medium-bodied flavors that are quite serious on the linear, focused and impeccably well-balanced finish. Excellent.”

Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits-St-George Les Bousselots Premier Cru 2009 ($99.95) $69 special
Burghound 90-92 points “Subtle but not invisible wood frames relatively high-toned red berry fruit, especially red currant, that introduces delicious, round and unusually fine middle weight flavors thanks to the refined tannins and impressively long finish. The ‘09 is the best example of this wine that I have ever tasted from cask chez Chevillon.”

Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault Genevrieres Permier Cru 2007 ($319.95) $289 special
Stephen Tanzer 94 points “Knockout aromas of musky lime, lemon, minerals and powdered stone; nothing exotic about this. Rich, sweet and wonderfully pure, offering an uncanny combination of intensity, power and elegance. Finishes with explosive length. An outstanding bottle of Meursault.”

Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault Clos de la Barre 2011 ($149.95) $125 special
Wine Advocate 92 points “The 2011 Meursault Clos de la Barre was raised in used oak and bottled a little later than Dominique’s other 2011s. It has a generous bouquet that is spicier than the Village Cru with hints of smoked walnut emerging with time. The palate takes the tempo down a notch: mellow, refined and harmonious with beautifully integrated oak and a sumptuous lightly honeyed finish. Lovely. Drink now-2022+.”

Domaine des Comtes Lafon Charmes, Meursault Premier Cru 2011 ($249.95) $199 special
Burghound 92-94 points ” *Outstanding* A blend of fruit coming from 35+ and 75+ year old vines all in Charmes Dessus, which is the best part directly below Perrières and abutting Combettes. Here the pattern is reversed as the nose is less ripe; indeed here it is cool, restrained and positively backwards with its pure aromas of hazelnut, citrus, acacia blossom and extract of pear and white peach. There is terrific underlying tension and plenty of minerality to the medium-bodied flavors that possess almost painful intensity on the explosively persistent finish. This is first-rate though patience will be required. Drink 2021+”
Wine Advocate 93 points “The 2011 Meursault 1er Cru Charmes is adorned with an elegant, vibrant bouquet with lime flower, citrus peel and quince that gains intensity in the glass. The palate is well-balanced with light honeyed notes furnishing the entry before it crescendos toward the finish that offers quince, grapefruit and passion fruit all struck with fine acidity and a cheeky hint of white chocolate just appearing on the aftertaste. There is a lot to take in here — a mercurial, thought-provoking Meursault. Drink 2015-2027.”

FRANCE- LOIRE
Sangouard-Guyot Pouilly Fuisse Quintessence 2012 ($29.95) $24 special

FRANCE- ALSACE
Bott Freres Pinot Blanc 2013 ($17.95) $14 special
Winery notes “Clear yellow robe. Expressive bouquet of well-ripened fruit. Wine with thirst-quenching character and also suppleness. Goes supremely well with steamed fish but also with smoked fish. To be enjoyed with white meats served with light and creamy sauces.”

FRANCE- SOUTHERN FRANCE
Lacapelle Cabanac Tradition Cahors 2012 ($17.95) $14 special

ITALY- PIEDMONT
Azelia Barbera D’alba Punta 2011 ($31.95) $27 special
Antonio Galloni 90 points “Dark red cherry, plum, spice, menthol and licorice notes flesh out in Azelia’s 2011 Barbera d’Alba Punta, a wine that stands out for its polish. This is an especially refined Barbera for the year. A long, silky finish rounds things out nicely.”

ITALY- SPARKLING
Cavit Lunetta Prosecco Rose NV ($14.95) $8.50 special
Winery notes “This stylish, delicately sparkling wine is fragrant, with enticing aromas of apple and peach. On the palate it is rich, refreshing and harmonious, with crisp fruit flavors and a clean finish.”

SPAIN
Suriol Cava Brut Nature 2010 ($21.95) $18 special
Importer Notes “From 3 different certified organic plots of native grapes average age 25 years old; the cuvée is comprised of 40% Macabeo from La Plana, 30% Xarel-lo from L’Hort, and 30% Parellada from Les Carbasses. This is a lovely Cava with rich flavors, freshness, and an elegant balance between fine bubbles and notes of bread yeast, honey and citrus.”

Terre Nere Etna Rosato 2013 ($27.95) $24 special
Winery notes “Our Etna Rosato is bright and vibrant, but never superficial. The joy it delivers has sophistication. I’ve found out that it ages beautifully. Not that there is any reason to age it. But when it does, the complexity is quite unexpected and remarkable in a rosé. Fish, poultry, soups, pasta, prosciutto and cantaloupe, figs and salame, bread and olives and cheese. You name it.”

 

Stony Hill Diamond Mountain Cabernet 2010 ($79.95) $59 special

Araujo Altagracia Napa Valley Red 2011 ($149.95) $119 special
Wine Advocate 92 points “The 2011 Altagracia is round, sexy, supple and beautiful, especially within the context of the year. Sweet red berries, mint, tobacco, savory herbs and anise meld together in a distinctive wine long on personality. With time in the glass the wine fleshes out nicely, as the flavors become darker, richer and layered. Altagracia is a blend of mostly Eisele fruit, plus a bit of Vine Hill Ranch, a well-draining site in Oakville that is among Napa Valley’s very best. The blend is 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Petit Verdot, 3% Cabernet Franc and 2% Malbec.”

AIA Vecchia Lagone Bolgheri Rosso 2011 ($17.95) $14 special
Wine Advocate 89 points “A blend of Merlot (60%), Cabernet Sauvignon with a smaller part Cabernet Franc, the 2011 Lagone is a super ripe and soft wine with jammy aromas of blackberry and prune backed by milk chocolate and tobacco. Aged one year in barrique, the wine presents supple and velvety characteristics. It’s a terrific value. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2018.”

AIA Vecchia Sor Ugo Bolgheri Rosso 2010 ($39.95) $29 special
Wine Advocate 92 points “The top denomination wine from this estate, the 2010 Bolgheri Superiore Sor Ugo delivers massive, dark concentration and an exceedingly supple mouthfeel. The blend is Cabernet Sauvignon (50%), Merlot, Cabernet Franc and a small part Petit Verdot (all aged 18 months in barrique). The beautifully rich wine inches forward over the palate with heft and determination, imparting bright cherry, blackberry and spice as it moves slowly along. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2021.”

Borgo Scopeto Chianti Classico 2010 ($19.95) $16 special
Wine Spectator 92 points “This is vibrant and energetic, with a base of fine-grained tannins lifting the cherry, currant, rhubarb and tobacco flavors. Taut and almost racy on the long finish. Best from 2015 through 2024.”

Badia A Coltibuono Chianti Cetamura 2012 ($11.95) $9.90 special
CASE-12 Coltibuono Chianti Cetamura 2012 ($119.95) $89 special (that’s only $7.41 per bottle!)

 

“I can’t think of too many estates in Piedmont that have raised the bar higher than Vietti has over the last decade or so. Virtually every wine that emerges from these cellars is outstanding, and many are profound. ” – Antonio Galloni

The history of the Vietti winery traces its roots back to the 19th Century. Only at the beginning of the 20th century, however, did the Vietti name become a winery offering its own wines in bottle.

Patriarch Mario Vietti, starting from 1919 made the first Vietti wines, selling most of the production in Italy. His most significant achievement was to transform the family farm, engaged in many fields, into a grape-growing and wine-producing business. Then, in 1952, Alfredo Currado (Luciana Vietti’s husband) continued to produce high quality wines from their own vineyards and purchased grapes. The Vietti winery has grown to be one of the top-level producers in Piemonte and was one of the first wineries to export its products to the USA market. Today, the vineyards and wine-making are under the hands of Alfredo and Luciana’s son- Luca Currado.  Luca uses a combination of his family’s traditions and modern techniques, producing wines that are expressive of their terroir and known for their ability to age.

 

Vietti Barbera D’asti Tre Vigne 2012 ($21.95) $16 special 12+ bottles available
Vietti Nebbiolo Langhe Perbacco 2012 ($27.95) $21.90 special 12+ bottles available

Vietti Barolo Castiglione 2009 ($49.95) $37 special 12+ bottles available
Wine Advocate 94 points “The 2009 Barolo Castiglione delivers a radiant but subdued quality with polished notes of dry mineral, black fruit, tar, licorice, leather and many more levels of complexity. This entry-level Barolo demonstrates that great results are achieved in 2009. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025.”

 

Vietti Barbera D’alba Scarrone Vigna Vecchia 2010 ($89.95) $69 special 2 bottles available
Antonio Galloni 95 points “Vietti’s 2010 Barbera d’Alba Scarrone Vigna Vecchia shows the pedigree of these old vines. Rich and explosive in style, yet buffered by fabulous minerality, the 2010 Vigna Vecchia stands out for its exceptional balance and polish. This is a great vintage for one of Piedmont’s icon wines.”

Vietti Barbera D’alba Scarrone Vigna Vecchia 09 ($89.95) $77 special 7 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 92 points “(from vines planted in 1918; this wine did its malolactic fermentation in barriques, 20% new and the rest at least five years old, then was moved into large Slavonian casks in the spring for another year of aging):  Bright, dark red.  Fresh, floral aromas of cherry and wild herbs, with complementary oak tones.  Dense, rich and deep, combining outstanding sweetness of fruit with harmonious acidity and serious power and structure.  This will age well on its sheer density.  Luca Currado picked these barbera vines early, “with very thick, ripe skins” and a crop level of under 25 hectoliters per hectare.”

Vietti Barbaresco Masseria 2006 3L ($499.95) $399 special 1 double magnum available
Wine Advocate 93 points, Stephen Tanzer 92 points “Good deep red. Medicinal cherry and violet on the nose, with a hint of nuts. Sweet and fresh, with excellent inner-mouth energy and floral lift. But this also boasts an opulent texture, with the sweet tannins arriving late. I find this softer than the 2005 version, but again these tannins reminded me of a Barolo.”

Vietti Barbaresco Masseria 2007 1.5 LITER ($349.95) $199 special 3 magnums available
Wine Advocate 94 points “The 2007 Barbaresco Masseria flows gracefully from the glass with fabulous aromas of crushed flowers, berries, spices and minerals. It is a wonderfully perfumed, elegant Barbaresco of the highest level. Supple and open today, it promises to drink well to age twenty, if not significantly longer. Hints of the profound 1989 Barolo Rocche – one of the all time greats here – lingers on the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2027.”

Vietti Barbera D’asti La Crena 2007 1.5 LITER ($149.95) $119 special 1 magnum available
Wine Advocate 94 points “Vietti’s 2007 Barbera d’Asti La Crena is a thrilling glass of wine. Jammy dark fruit, minerals, spices and French oak come together beautifully in this opulent, gorgeous La Crena. Today the wine is naturally quite primary, but with another few years in the bottle, it should develop plenty of tertiary nuances. I generally have my best experiences with La Crena around age ten, and have found it to be a wine that can stand side by side with just about anything. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019.”

Vietti Barolo Brunate 2006 1.5LITER ($399.95) $319 special 2 magnums available
Vietti Barolo Brunate 2006 3LITER ($829.95) $699 special 1 double magnum available
Wine Enthusiast 97 points “Bravo! The Brunate cru has awarded Vietti with a stellar product: a wine that is unusually dark and plush with impressive intensity and crafted aromas of black fruit, spice, earth, licorice, balsam and gianduia chocolate-hazelnut spread. The soft, velvety texture is seductively delicious and the wine will age many long, glorious years.”

Vietti Barolo Brunate 2009 ($149.95) $119 special 6 bottles available
Wine Advocate 95 points “From one of the region’s most celebrated vineyards, the 2009 Barolo Brunate lavishes on smoky, granite and mineral notes that make this wine absolutely irresistible. Even the drawing of a snail on the label seems to hammer home one obvious point: This wine is built for longer cellar aging. Its rich texture, velvety feel and firm structure are guarantees that it will become increasingly elegant and finessed with time. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2030.”

Vietti Barolo Lazzarito 2006 1.5LITER ($399.95) $349 special 1 magnum available
Wine Advocate 97 points “The 2006 Barolo Lazzarito has begun to show the pedigree of this great Serralunga site now that Vietti has backed off the French oak, and the 2006 is nothing short of superb. A melange of dark, mineral-infused fruit flows from the glass as the large-scaled Lazzarito gradually shows off its class. Licorice, tar, smoke and earthiness add layers of complexity and nuance. The Lazzarito is still the Barolo that spends the longest number of months in French oak following the malolactic fermentation, but that period is down to several months from a full year the wine spent in small barrels up until 2001 or so. One day the Lazzarito may challenge the Rocche as Vietti’s signature Barolo, and that day may be closer than most people realize. This huge, imposing Barolo will require patience, but it is nothing short of superb. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2031.”

Vietti Barolo Lazzarito 2007 1.5LITER ($449.95) $349 special 2 magnums available
Wine Advocate 96+ points “The 2007 Barolo Lazzarito is a superb, plush wine loaded with dark fruit, flowers of all sorts, sweet menthol and minerals, all of which flow through to the long, powerful finish. The wine’s inner perfume emerges over time, adding even more nuance and subtlety to this big Barolo. The 2007 Lazzarito is far from an open, easygoing wine, in fact it needs time, and lots of it. Anticipated maturity: 2022-2042.”

Vietti Barolo Lazzarito 2009 ($149.95) $119 special 11 bottles available
Wine Advocate 95+ points “Luca recently purchased more land in the Lazzarito cru. The 2009 Barolo Lazzarito delivers subdued notes of red rose and violet that build in intensity as the wine takes on more air in the glass. Black fruit, plum, cassis, leather, tar and licorice soon follow suit. This wine is an absolute, drop-dead stunner. Its tannic crispness makes it feel lively and buoyant in the mouth. The wine shows heft and importance that become firmly etched in the mouth. Each time I went back to the glass, the wine told a new story. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2035.”

Vietti Barolo Rocche 2009 ($149.95) $119 special 8 bottles available
Wine Advocate 96 points “The 2009 Barolo Rocche is a solid, unwavering expression that brings the intensity meter even higher. Sweet red fruit, licorice, leather and moist pipe tobacco are some of the many layers that peel back from the bouquet. The balance, structure and persistence of the wine are all superb. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2036”

Vietti Barolo Lazzarito 2010 ($179.95) $149 special 8 bottles available
Antonio Galloni 96 points “The 2010 Barolo Lazzarito is impeccably polished, silky and refined, especially for a Serralunga Barolo. Mint, violets, black fruit, smoke and deep layers of spices are some of the many notes that flesh out on the inviting, textured finish. Today, the Lazzarito is incredibly primary to the point of being raw and undeveloped, but it is explosive, bursting with energy and flat-out great. This is also the first recent vintage I can remember tasting where the French oak is more in line with the other single-vineyard Barolos.”

Vietti Barolo Brunate 2010 ($189.95) $159 special 3 bottles available
Antonio Galloni 97 points “Dark red fruit, iron, new leather and smoke all jump from the 2010 Barolo Brunate. A huge, dense, powerful Barolo, the 2010 Brunate boasts stunning depth and sheer richness. At the same time, though, it is incredibly polished for such a big wine. The Brunate brings together the power of the Lazzarito, but with a greater sense of textural polish and finesse that is typical of the Rocche. In 2010, the Brunate is all about balance and harmony.”

Vietti Barolo Villero Riserva 2006 ($349.95) $299 special 12+ bottles available
Wine Advocate 97 points, Antonio Galloni 96+ points “The last wine of the flight is the outstanding 2006 Barolo Riserva Villero. It literally bursts open to full force intensity and beauty. It’s a mind-blowing interpretation of the often austere and brooding Nebbiolo grape that shows abundant life and vigor. Dark leather, cured beef, pressed rose petal, candied fruit, prune, cola, dried herbs and crushed mineral emerge from the glass like an aromatic marching band. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2035.”

 

Gruner Veltliner

Austria’s Signature Grape

Prost!  It’s time to celebrate Gruner Veltliner, ladies and gentleman.  Why, you ask? Because of it’s mouth tingling, driving acidity and wine pairing capabilities?  Because of it’s weighty Chardonnay-like character or it’s bursting citrus and spice notes?  Maybe it’s just time for this underrated, exotic Austrian grape to gain the recognition it deserves.  Gruner (which translates to ‘green’ in German) Veltliner is mostly recognized for it’s fresh lime, grapefruit and white pepper notes.  What most consumers have not learned yet is it’s range of various styles and their complexities, some intended for early consumption and others achieving great ageing capabilities.

The Wachau region in Austria is truly a connection between Northern and Southern climates, involving a rich mosaic of various soils and steep, rocky river banks (some as steep as in the Mosel and Cote-Rotie).   Geography plays a major role when talking of the whites coming from this region,  and the resulting concentration of flavors due to the Pannonian climate they experience.    The Danube river acts as a natural heat regulator, by retaining  heat in the day for sugars and phenolic compunds to build up, while creating currents of moist Northen air, allowing for cool nights to balance and preserve the aromas and acidity.

There are over 900 named vineyard sites in Wachau, but right now let’s not get too overwhelmed, and just concentrate on style.  Wachau created a classification system from strictly 100% Wachau grapes.  With words like ‘Steinfeder’, ‘Federspiel’ and ‘Smaragd’, it’s quite easy to be slightly intimidated when approaching these wines and deciphering their meaning.   This classification is similar to Germany in that they are classified by their ‘must weight’, or sugar content at harvest time, an indication of ripeness and levels of alcohol.  So, let’s keep it pretty cut and DRY:

Steinfeder– Named after a local grass growing in the local vineyards and mostly consumed in Austria, this style is bone dry with a lighter, crisper approach and a  maximum of 11.5%abv.  The notable citrus notes really pop with these wines.
Federspiel– Named after a falcon often hunted in the Wachau, this second level on the three-tier system shows a bit more finesse and generous mouthfeel.  Still dry, this style lies between the crisp fresh citrus notes and the white pepper characteristics, with a bit more weight to balance out the richness of the fruit and those beautiful acids.
Smaragd– The most coveted wines of Wachau with a minimum of 12.5%abv these wines are dry, robust and full-bodied.  They have the highest concentration of sugars and reach the optimum levels of ripeness.  This does not translate to this style being sweet, but that they demonstrate more age-worthiness (some with 20+ years potential!) with even more richness in body and flavor, and showing greater complexities.   ‘Smaragd’ is also the name of the emerald-lizards that live and roam in the vineyards of Wachau, so that’s reason enough to explore this style.

The region of Kremstal and the historic town of Krems, a neighbor of the Wachau,  lies on weathered bedrock soils and produces Gruner Veltliners with elegance, opulent fruit and a creamier texture.  The Nigl estate, lying on the terrace of Kirchenberg is influenced by the forested mountains that create cooler nights than in Wachau, resulting in larger diurnal swings in temperature that extend the ripening season and produce spicey wines full of depth.
Just Northwest of Vienna is the small, yet prestigious region of Kamptal.  Also benefiting from the influences of the Pannonian climate and cool breezes coming from the Waldvierte forest, these wines display great depth and character. Gruner Veltliner vineyards are mostly located in the lower-lying areas, where the deep clay and loess soils contribute to richer, highly concentrated wines, while still maintaining their vibrant acidity. Extended over the entire region,  vines have been cultivated on terraced hillsides of gneiss, sandstone, loess and gravel for over 2000 years , allowing these wines to really show their mineral driven characteristics. 

 

Alzinger Gruner Veltliner Steinertal Smaragd Wachau 2011 ($59.95) $49 special 15 bottles available
Falstaff Report 95 points “(translated) Bright Green Yellow. Fine yellow peach fruit, delicate orange flavor, mineral touch, multi-faceted bouquet, succulent, very elegant texture, fine stone fruit touch, balanced, underlaid with a finesse acid structure remains very good stick, mineral finish, very good from an inspiring transparency, aging potential.”

Alzinger Gruner Velt Steinertal Smaragd Wachau 2012 ($69.95) $55 special 17 bottles available
Joel Payne 91 points “Intense ripe aromas of pineapple, cantaloupe and white pepper. Quite concentrated, warmly rich and powerful, yet cool, austere and focused. Mineral spices and a nearly salty impression linger on the long finish.”

FX Pichler Gruner Loibner Klostersatz Wachau 2012 ($39.95) $33 special 21 bottles available
Falstaff Report 91 points “[translated] Bright yellow green. Pleasant yellow apple fruit, a hint of stone fruit and melon. Juicy, tender leafy spice, subtle fruit sweetness, well-integrated acidity, lemony touch in the finish, already good to drink.”

FX Pichler Gruner Frauenweingarten Wachau 2012 ($39.95) $33 special 22 bottles available
Falstaff Report 92 points “[translated] Bright green, silver flecks. Fresh green apple, backed with fine meadow herbs, delicate hint of tobacco. Juicy, shows a nimbleness and good complexity, fine spice, fresh structure, pleasant fruit reverberation, less alcohol, more flavor.”

FX Pichler Gruner Smaragd Urgestein Wachau 2012 ($44.95) $36 special 13 bottles available
Falstaff Report 93 points “[translated] Medium green, silver flecked. Fine Spicy highlighted yellow fruit, tender ripe mango. Complex, elegant texture, fine extract sweetness, ripe Golden Delicious apple, backed with fine acidity, has excellent ageing potential.”

FX Pichler Gruner Loibenberg Smaragd Wachau 2012 ($59.95) $47 special 7 bottles available
Falstaff Report 94-96 points “[Translated] Medium green yellow, silver flecked. Distinct notes of herbs and spices, delicately lined with mango and pineapple. Powerful, ripe white fruit aromas, delicate pears, pleasant sweetness, fine acidity, harmonious style, a good promise for the future, dark minerality in the finale.”

FX Pichler Gruner Loibner Steinertal Wachau 2012 ($59.95) $49 special 20 bottles available
Falstaff Report 93-95 points “[translated] Medium Green Yellow. With fresh wild herbs highlighted by yellow apple fruit, tender mango, dark mineral hints at fine hint of tobacco. Juicy, pleasantly sweet extract, delicate acidity, powerful but balanced, fine balance in the finish, very good aging potential.”

FX Pichler Gruner Durnsteiner Liebenberg Wachau 2011 ($79.95) $49 special 2 bottles available
Wine Spectator 92 points “A peachy aroma leads to powerful flavors of pear, dried pineapple and apricot. White chocolate hints lend added richness and complexity, culminating in a voluptuous finish. Drink now through 2022. ”

FX Pichler Gruner Durnsteiner Liebenberg Wachau 2012 ($69.95) $55 special 24 bottles available
Falstaff Report 92-94 points “[translated] Medium greenish yellow. Attractive yellow tropical fruit, delicate pineapple and peach, with fresh wild herbs and delicately highlighted with orange zest. Powerful, a fine touch of honey, sweet extracted core, subtle acid structure, mineral reverberation, yellow fruity finish, a hint of opulence.”

FX Pichler Gruner Kellerberg Wachau 2009 ($89.95) $69 special 1 bottle available
Stephen Tanzer 96 points “Medium green-yellow. A superb bouquet reveals layers of Golden Delicious apple, cantaloupe, tobacco, anise, black pepper and wet slate. Mounts in intensity in the mouth, where sweetly apple and melon fruit and full satiny body are gracefully by vibrant, fully integrated acidity. The palate-staining finish lingers for literally minutes with abundant fruit, minerals and spices. This extraordinary wine will continue to gain in complexity for the next five years and should hold well until 2024.”

FX Pichler Gruner Kellerberg Smaragd Wachau 2012 ($89.95) $79 special 24 bottles available

FX Pichler Gruner Veltliner M Smaragd Wachau 2012 375ML ($59.95) $49 special 9 half bottles available
FX Pichler Gruner Veltliner M Smaragd Wachau 2012 750ML ($109.95) $89 special 12 bottles available

FX Pichler Gruner Veltliner Kellerberg Wachau 2011 ($119.95) $99 special 4 bottles available
Wine Spectator 93 points “Lithe, rich and effusively minerally, this offers some saline notes to the lively mix of red peach, wild cherry and white plum flavors. Interesting elements of slate and dried herbs add to the complexity, revealing accents of lemon that linger on the broad-brushed finish. Drink now through 2022.”

FX Pichler Gruner Veltliner M Smaragd Wachau 2011 ($119.95) $99 special 2 bottles available
Wine Spectator 92 points “Delivers light smoky notes to the ripe, plush flavors of candied ginger, baked yam and dried pear, balanced by crisp minerality. Complex and rich, with stony notes that mix well on the spicy, powerful finish. Drink now through 2022. 40 cases imported.”

Gobelsburg Gruner Veltliner Gobelsburger Kamptal 2012 ($17.95) $14 special 3 bottles available
Terry Theise notes: “Euphoric fragrance, sweet and tenderly delineated; sweet grains and white flowers; the palate is digital and pixilated, cressy and a tiny bit of langoustine-sweetness plus the brine from the stock of the shells. The quality-price rapport has to be among the very best on earth.”

Gobelsburg Gruner Veltliner Steinsetz Kamptal 2012 ($29.95) $24 special 6 bottles available
Terry Theise notes: “For many years this showed the most esoterically spicy side of GrüVe, as if it were fined with glacier dust and scree and stirred with a peppermint stick. The 2010 was markedly juicier, but I ascribed it to the vintage.This ‘12 continues the new pattern, if it is a pattern, because I asked Michi if the “accent” of the wine was being changed on purpose, and he said no, suggesting that perhaps the older vines were creating another kind of wine. Mind you, this ‘12 is plenty spicy, minty and eucalyptus-y, but unlike the pre-2010 vintages it isn’t obdurately firm and nippy. Vetiver, flowering fields and juiciness coat the bones; barky and pine-resiny. A completely original white wine!”

Hirtzberger Gruner Veltliner Honivogl Smaragd Wachau 2011 ($109.95) $89 special 5 bottles available
Wine Spectator 92 points “Dense and rich flavors of peach cobbler, ruby grapefruit and glazed citrus are supported by a zesty acidity. The accents of marzipan and lemon curd provide balance, accompanied by hints of tarragon cream. A big wine. Drink now through 2020. ”
Stephen Tanzer 91 points “Tobacco, acacia honey and white peach rise on the nose, along with a hint of pepper. Juicy, dry and sharply focused, with a core of ripe apricot extract. Finishing with impressive persistence, this wine will certainly be long-lived.”

Hirtzberger Gruner Velt Rotes Tor Federspiel Wachau 2011 ($39.95) $24 special 15 bottles available
Wine Spectator 89 points “Firm yet plush, with well-focused gooseberry, lentil and wild cherry flavors that are filled with minerally notes. Crunchy finish. Drink now through 2017.”

Hirtzberger Gruner Veltline Rotes Tor Smaragd Wachau 2011 ($59.95) $49 special 5 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 91 points “Restrained nose reveals ripe melons, wild herbs, cracked pepper and dark minerals. Sumptuously concentrated, with spicy acidity providing a counterpoint to the sweetly extracted apricot flavors. Long on the finish.”

Nigl Gruner Herzstuck Kirchenberg Kremstal 2010 ($59.95) $49 special 3 bottles available

Nikolaihof Gruner Weingebirge Federspiel Wachau 2012 ($34.95) $27 special 8 bottles available
Terry Theise notes: “Markedly lissome and chiseled, slate-blue eyes and high cheekbones; even a little phenolic and certainly mineral, especially for this estate. The finish is clipped but the alc is below 12%, and the clarity and oyster grip is almost more typical for Hefeabzug.”

Nikolaihof Gruner Weingebirge Smaragd Wachau 2010 ($69.95) $59 special 2 bottles available
Terry Theise notes: “Delicate and soulful. Not a flashy first impression. 12.6% alc. Pea shoot and vetiver and a curious tickle of tannin; a careful beautiful wine with nothing to prove. Again a stirringly mineral finish.I should emphasize, I don’t need to or want to summon any kind of spell when I’m tasting here. I try instead to erase my screen and then transcribe whatever takes place. I mean, the wines are how they are, and I seem to feel my only authentic response is directly into image and metaphor. And the tasting itself is quite workmanlike; 4-5 glasses are lined up and the wines poured into flights, just like anywhere else. And then they start to peal, and the usual deconstruction of flavors just isn’t called for. Better to fall into the aura of the pealing, to hear the complicated overtones, to feel the air between the wine and me. That’s what seems to work.”

Nikolaihof Gruner Weingebirge Smaragd Wachau 2011 ($64.95) $55 special 7 bottles available
Terry Theise notes: “Delicate and soulful. Not a flashy first impression. 12.6% alc. Pea shoot and vetiver and a curious tickle of tannin; a careful beautiful wine with nothing to prove. Again a stirringly mineral finish.I should emphasize, I don’t need to or want to summon any kind of spell when I’m tasting here. I try instead to erase my screen and then transcribe whatever takes place. I mean, the wines are how they are, and I seem to feel my only authentic response is directly into image and metaphor. And the tasting itself is quite workmanlike; 4-5 glasses are lined up and the wines poured into flights, just like anywhere else. And then they start to peal, and the usual deconstruction of flavors just isn’t called for. Better to fall into the aura of the pealing, to hear the complicated overtones, to feel the air between the wine and me. That’s what seems to work.”

Brundlmayer Gruner Veltliner Alte Reben Kamptal 2008 ($49.95) $41.90 special 18 bottles available
Terry Theise notes: “You get to make a stylistic choice; the ’08 is out of diapers, and it’s all green beans and twigs, with the cool angularity of the vintage, and with a kind of power having little to do with strength but rather with a precise expressiveness.”

Hirsch Gruner Veltliner Lamm Kamptal 2011 ($59.95) $49 special 24 bottles available
Terry Theise notes “The ‘11 is back-lit by its extreme youth, but there’s a shimmery brilliance that’s really compelling; it’s back-palate now, but silvery rather than meaty withal it’s as massive as Lamm always is; it’s salty not stocky, like a slice of cucumber between two arugula leaves with a few grains of selgris. Again singular in the context of 2011.”

Nikolaihof Gruner Veltliner Hefeabzug Wachau 2013 ($29.95) $24 special 24 bottles available
Terry Theise notes: “CORE-LIST WINE. It means sur lie. It’s exotic this year, but has the spicy flowery euphoria of ’13 and its usual semolinasweet lees; less starchy than usual but vastly more floral, as if a potion of wisteria were dissolved in it. Very long wintergreeny finish.

Nikolaihof Gruner Weingebirge Federspiel Wachau 2013 ($39.95) $29 special 24 bottles available
Terry Theise notes: “Well this is a miracle-wine. Sparrowy energy; perfumed so pungently it’s like smelling your irises and lilacs from inside the house; a delicate minerality, but this wreaks an utter havoc of charm and deliciousness, all with that delicate woodsy breath of the cellar. Numinously gentle, unforgettable wine.”

Nikolaihof Gruner Weingebirge Smaragd Wachau 2012 ($69.95) $59 special 18 bottles available
Terry Theise notes: “Spices and tobacco; an old dialect not only of GV but of wine; a kind of melting exhalation of relaxing, nothing to prove, no point to make, just delicately forceful; at the edge of oxidation, but feels mysterious, not decadent. Banish the noise!”

Ott Gruner Veltliner Am Berg Wagram 2013 ($24.95) $18 special 4 cases available
Terry Theise notes: “CORE LIST WINE. Bernhard’s entry-level GV is ludicrously good in 2013, partly because of the vintage but also because he controlled all the grape-sellers vineyards for the first time, and picked them by hand with his own team. It’s sensationally juicy and rich, not in ripeness but in substance. I found I couldn’t spit it, however manfully I tried.”

Ott Gruner Veltliner Der Ott Wagram 2013 ($49.95) $39 special 12 bottles available
Importer note: “Ott’s premiere line of Grüner Veltliner’s begins with “Der Ott,” made from the younger, 10-12 year old, vines of the top three Erste Lage sites – Spiegel, Stein and Rosenberg.”

Ott Gruner Veltliner Fass 4 Wagram 2013 ($34.95) $27 special 12 bottles available
Terry Theise notes: “Salty and herbal pork crackling or the skin of the roast; rose hips and rhubarb; the plus is for sheer torque and force, and the wine has the absurd happiness of a great rock song.”

Ott Gruner Veltliner Rosenberg Wagram 2013 ($64.95) $51.90 special 12 bottles available
Terry Theise notes: “The exegesis of loess here. Wet cereal, polenta and honey and buttery scrambled eggs; it has an imposing salty force, pure power, not just the alcohol-facsimile of power; eucalyptus and ginger; a vibrating mass of ur-salt, magma; a singular vintage of this GV icon.”

Ott Gruner Veltliner Spiegel Wagram 2013 ($59.95) $49 special 12 bottles available
Terry Theise notes: “The highest elevation among Ott’s three Grand Crus, thus the coolest and breeziest. The soil is gravel over conglomerates. This ’13 is salty and pheasant-y like a sous-vide breast with burgundy truffle; esoteric spices and tropical fruit and parsnip chips; markedly ripe and concentrated.”

Ott Gruner Veltliner Stein Wagram 2013 ($59.95) $49 special 12 bottles available
Terry Theise notes: “The subsoil is the so-called Gföhler gneiss (such as is in the Gaisberg, for example) with a sandy-loessy topsoil. Bernhard leased the vineyard in 2006, as part of a growth phase. The owner watched him working in the vineyard, and was so impressed by the way he cared for the soil, she offered to sell it to him for “any price you want to pay.” I heard that story and had to blink a few times…
Complex aromas, like a quarry of mineral; a firm, stand-at-attention GV, intense and cool but wonderfully expressive, not aloof; basmati and corn, something leafy, lemon and mint, a liquid Ricola drop; herbs and stones and grains. Technically in the Kamptal, by the way.”

 

Pierre Peters Cuvee de Reserve Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Brut ($59.95) $51.90 special
“Champagne seems to have a difficult time getting away from a “celebration only” beverage. This food-friendly wine is perfect for ANY occasion. What many see as the best village for Chardonnay in all of Champagne, Le Mesnil-Sur-Oger. Incredible balance between minerality and acidity, with notes of brioche and flowers, and a long, elegant finish. Delicious. Grand Cru for $51.90.”

 

 

Cameron “Giuliano” White Blend 2012 ($27.95) $17 special
“An enjoyable blend of Friulano, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio and Auxerrois with a small bit of Moscato. A bold wine that seems well worth aging. Medium bodied with subtle notes of grass and pear. A brilliantly dry wine that starts off plush and finishes with a tangy minerality. Very food friendly and versatile wine, pairing well with bold spices and more delicate dishes.”

 

 

Alvaro Palacios is not exactly a new face in the wine scene  – he has helped revolutionise the Spanish wine industry by making rich, complex wines from Priorat and is considered, along with Peter Sisseck of Pingus, to be one of the most important winemakers of Spain’s modern era.

One of nine children from the esteemed Rioja winemaking family Bodegas Palacios Remondo, Alvaro Palacios interned in Bordeaux at the side of Christian Moueix, the celebrated winemaker of Pomerol château Pétrus. He credits his tenure under Moueix for much of his winemaking philosophy and for showing him “the importance of great wines.” Upon his return to Spain he decided against getting involved in the family business and instead pursued his own ventures. Strongly drawn to the ancient, abandoned vineyards of Priorat, Alvaro acquired his first vineyard in 1990. Located 60 miles from Barcelona, Priorat had been one of Spain’s important pre-Phylloxera wine regions, planted predominantly with Garnacha, with Cabernet, Syrah, and Merlot producing a smaller percentage. Known for its minerally black soil and the powerful wines produced from this terroir, Alvaro believed  he could make a wine that would truly express the unique area.  He was right. His first wine there, 1995 L’Ermita, is what orginally gained him recognition as one of the world’s most inspired and dedicated winemakers.

His success in Priorat inspired Alvaro to search again for something new, this time putting his faith in the potential of Bierzo and the area’s primary varietal Mencia.  In 1998, Alvaro and his nephew Ricardo Perez, who had just finished studying in Bordeaux, opened the doors to Descendientes de Palacios. Purchasing old vine Mencia vineyards, Alvaro and Ricardo hope to bring new life to Bierzo in the same way Alvaro did in Priorat. The winery is dedicated to Alvaro’s father, and Ricardo’s grandfather, who passed away in early 2000, once again drawing inspiration from their families’ long history in Spanish winemaking.
The wines we have available from the Palacios group include almost everything available, those labeled Descendientes de J Palacios are from Bierzo and wines labeled Alvaro Palacios are from Priorat.

Alvaro Palacios Camins del Priorat 2012 ($21.95) $18 special  36 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 91 points “Inky ruby.  Aromas of blackberry, cola and spicy oak.  Sweet and intense in the mouth, offering weighty dark berry flavors complicated by Asian spices.  The fleshy, broad finish features smooth tannins and appealingly sweet black and blue fruit qualities.”

Alvaro Palacios Finca Dofi 2010 ($69.95) $57 special  11 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 94 points “Suave, highly perfumed nose offers fresh raspberry, minerals, candied flowers and Asian spices.  Sappy and minerally, offering intense, spice-accented red fruit and floral pastille flavors with superb clarity.  Wonderfully supple in texture, with outstanding finishing persistence and only a hint of sweet tannins.”
Alvaro Palacios Finca Dofi 2011 ($69.95) $59 special  31 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 94 points “Suave, highly perfumed nose offers fresh raspberry, minerals, candied flowers and Asian spices.  Sappy and minerally, offering intense, spice-accented red fruit and floral pastille flavors with superb clarity.  Wonderfully supple in texture, with outstanding finishing persistence and only a hint of sweet tannins.”

Alvaro Palacios Priorat Gratallops 2010 ($49.95) $39 special  16 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 92 points “Dark ruby. Aromas of cherry, cassis, cocoa, Asian spices and underbrush, lifted by a strong mineral quality. Juicy, sappy and nicely concentrated, with very good density to its flavors of blackcurrant, bitter cherry and candied rose. A lively, sexy wine that finishes with strong mineral bite and impressive length.”

Descendientes de J Palacios Corullon 2010 ($49.95) $33 special  12 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 92 points “Bright violet color. Pungent, youthful aromas of dark berry preserves, cherry-cola and candied violet, with a mineral topnote. Offers an array of sappy red and dark fruit flavors, with spicecake and anise nuances building with air. Silky tannins give shape and grip to a long, penetrating finish.”

Descendientes de J Palacios Corullon 2011 ($49.95) $33 special  5 bottles available
Wine Advocate 93 points “”The 2011 Corullon nearly jumps from the glass in an explosion of violets, ripe peaches and acid strawberry, the fruit darker, a touch riper, with some organic notes of humus and peat, even mushroom. You can drink it now to enjoy the exuberant, exotic profile of the wine or let it rest for three years and enjoy later. It has superb precision and length. Corullon also benefits from blending different vineyards.”

 Descendientes de J Palacios Las Lamas 2010 ($119.95) $69 special  1 bottle available
Stephen Tanzer 94 points “Deep, bright-hued ruby. Powerful, spice-accented aromas of red berry liqueur, cherry pit, rose oil and incense, with a bright mineral topnote. Sappy, penetrating raspberry and bitter cherry flavors show impressive energy and punch, picking up floral pastille and spicecake nuances with air. Finishes chewy and very long, with slow-building tannins and insistent floral and spice notes.”

Descendientes de J Palacios Las Lamas 2011 ($119.95) $69 special  12 bottle available
Stephen Tanzer 94 points “Deep, bright-hued ruby. Powerful, spice-accented aromas of red berry liqueur, cherry pit, rose oil and incense, with a bright mineral topnote. Sappy, penetrating raspberry and bitter cherry flavors show impressive energy and punch, picking up floral pastille and spicecake nuances with air. Finishes chewy and very long, with slow-building tannins and insistent floral and spice notes.”

 

Bodegas Muga Prado Enea 2004 1.5 LITER ($129.95) $99 special
Stephen Tanzer 94 points “80% tempranillo, with garnacha, mazuelo and graciano):  Dark ruby.  An intensely perfumed nose displays cherry-cola, cassis, licorice and woodsmoke, with a sexy floral quality and very good focus.  Juicy, penetrating dark fruit flavors are given spine by tangy acidity and pick up bitter chocolate and spicecake nuances with air.  Supple tannins add shape to the very long, sappy, smoke-accented finish.  This is still a baby.”