Monday Newsletter 8-9-21

Armando Parusso is a Barolo winemaker who defies categorization while creating some of the most exciting wines in the Piedmont. A relentless experimenter who the Wine Advocate called “one of the most dynamic and out-of-the-box wineries in Barolo,” he nonetheless doesn’t hew to what’s usually considered “modernist ” in the Piedmont. Rather, Parusso remains devoutly inspired by Burgundy—and he’s worked tirelessly to make his bottles stand in the company of DRC, Dujac, and Leroy, whose bottles he adores.

That means he’s one of the rare producers who ferments his Barolo whole-cluster, with long macerations—up to 50 days on the skins (the antithesis of most modernist producers). He then takes the fermented wine and ages in barriques, with frequent lees-stirring and only a single racking. It’s an outlandishly original production method, which Wine Spectator described as the product of “constantly tweaking his methods to coax more from his Nebbiolo.” 

No less than Giacomo Conterno declared that “We always need people who are hungry, and Marco is hungry. He always wants more from his wine”—and the results speak for themselves.  These are some of the most stunning wines in Barolo, with class and power to spare. We just received a small allocation of his bottles, available until they run out.

In Stock Now:

Parusso Armando Ornati Barbera d’Alba, Piedmont  2019 750ML ($24.95) $19.50 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Case-6 Parusso Armando Ornati Barbera d’Alba, Piedmont  2019 750ML ($149.95) $111 special (that’s only $18.50/bottle!)

This is the only listing in the USA today!

Armando Parusso Barolo DOCG 2016 750ML ($49.95) $39 special, 6 bottles in stock now
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 94 points “The Parusso 2016 Barolo offers that distinctive Parusso nose that I have come to understand over the years I have been tasting these wines. There is a touch of ripe fruit, dried grape skins and stems that pop out over rich black fruit, tar and black spice. There’s a sultry and smoky aspect to the wine with extra concentration and tannic astringency on the finish. This vintage is even more structured, suggesting a longer cellar aging time. If you are invested in the Parusso philosophy, this is a good place to start.”
Antonio Galloni 92+ points “The 2016 Barolo is a terrific example of the year. Unusually dark and somber, the 2016 packs a real punch. Black cherry, plum, espresso, licorice, spice and menthol add to the wine’s richness and overall intensity. Far from an easygoing straight Barolo, Parusso’s 2016 is a very serious wine; I wouldn’t dream of touching a bottle anytime soon. Vineyard sources are Mariondino, Mosconi and Bussia – all top sites that are also bottled separately here.”

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
The average price is $57

Armando Parusso Barolo Bussia 2013 750ML ($89.95) $79 special, 10 bottles in stock now
James Suckling 97 points “This is one of the greatest wines I have ever had from here. So much ripe cherry, raspberry and floral character. Medium body, super-refined tannins and a long and flavorful finish. So much going on here. Better in 2021.”
Wine Advocate 95 points “The 2013 Barolo Bussia is my favorite wine among Marco Parusso’s new releases. This wine shows an extraordinary level of richness and softness that speaks to the unique winemaking style proposed by this innovative producer. The Bussia cru tends to produce softer and finer fruit characteristics. The bouquet delivers elegant notes of wild berry, forest floor and white truffle with mineral notes such as pencil shaving delicately tucked in at the back. The wine sees up to 60% stem inclusion and maceration times are long. This Barolo is articulate and profoundly expressive.”

Armando Parusso Barolo Bussia 2016 750ML ($119.95) $89 special, 6 bottles in stock now
Antonio Galloni 96+ points “Marco Parusso’s 2016 Barolo Bussia brings together all the best elements of his style and year in a wine that is simply brilliant. Sweet floral notes, dark red fruit, mint, blood orange and spice infuse the 2016 with myriad layers of complexity. A bold, dramatic Barolo made from Rocche and Munie fruit, the 2016 is going to need a number of years to be at its best.”
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 96 points “This is one of the most important single-vineyard expressions from Marco and Tiziana Parusso, a formidable brother and sister team whose winery is located at the edge of Monforte d’Alba on the road to Castiglione Falletto. Their 2016 Barolo Bussia is a dark and brooding expression with some of those aromas of Nebbiolo stems and skins that give extra power and density to the wine. I’d suggest a pairing of succulent red meat, but you definitely need to put this wine aside for more time. This classic vintage is especially well suited to cellar aging. The structure of this Bussia is a tiny bit more pliant and approachable compared to the more astringent Mosconi.”
James Suckling 95 points “Wild strawberries and plums with spices, dried flowers and hazelnuts. It’s full-bodied, yet tight, fine and focused with lovely balance and finesse. Drink or hold.”

Armando Parusso Barolo Mariondino 2016 750ML ($79.95) $59 special, 9 bottles in stock now
Antonio Galloni 94 points “The 2016 Barolo Mariondino is another potent, heady wine in this range. The red fruit and floral notes typical of this site emerge, but the Mariondino is big and very dark in 2016. Like all of these Barolos, the Mariondino is built for the long haul. In most vintages, Mariondino is a Barolo of sensuality but the 2016 is a real powerhouse. Time in the glass brings out red fruit and floral notes, but this is an XL Barolo.”
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 94 points “The 2016 Barolo Mariondino sees fruit from a vineyard not too far from the Parusso winery in Castiglione Falletto. It opens to sultry and intense aromas. Generally speaking, the wines of this estate achieve a level of richness and concentration that you don’t see anywhere else in the appellation. The fruit is slightly dehydrated before fermentation and a good percentage of stem inclusion is used. There is a note of sweet, sun-ripened fruit on the close, and you taste the actual skins of the grapes. Stern tannins mark the close.”
James Suckling 94 points “Extremely perfumed with dried flowers, such as roses and lilacs, complementing the ripe strawberry and plum character. Full-bodied on the attack with a fine tannin profile and a fresh finish. Drinkable now, but needs a year or two to open. Better after 2021.”

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
The next best price is $88.43

Armando Parusso Barolo Mosconi 2016 750ML ($119.95) $89 special, 16 bottles in stock now
James Suckling 97 points “An exotic, high-toned Barolo with blackberry, walnut and dried-flower aromas and flavors, as well as orange undertones. It’s full-bodied with spices and ripe fruit. Figs, too. Long and wild. Drink or hold.”
Antonio Galloni 95 points “The 2016 Barolo Mosconi shows all the breadth and richness that is typical of this Monforte site. Dark fruit, chocolate, spice, new leather, menthol, sage and crushed rocks build in an explosive, tannic Barolo that is going to need at least a few years in bottle to come together. Powerful, deep and resonant, this dark, brooding Barolo has a ton to offer.”
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 95 points “The Parusso 2016 Barolo Mosconi exhibits that same power, intensity and dark fruit with aromas of grape skins and vinous components. Marco Parusso lets his grapes undergo a very light appassimento in a cold storage room before pressing, and he uses a percentage of whole-cluster fruit with stems. Those strong flavors and tannins are very much on notice. You get hints of white pepper on this very powerful and tannic wine that won’t be accessible until at least 10 years after the harvest, or probably more.”

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
The average price is $118

Armando Parusso Langhe Nebbiolo 2018 750ML ($24.95) $20.90 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Case-6 Armando Parusso Langhe Nebbiolo 2018 750ML ($149.95) $119 special (that’s only $19.83/bottle!)
Wine Advocate 90 points “The Parusso 2018 Langhe Nebbiolo has a wild side with some of the tangy white pepper aromas that you sometimes get with some of the indigenous grapes of Piedmont. The delivery is simple and clean, but don’t underestimate the bold personality that you get here. Those tangy fruit aromas are mixed in with garden herb, licorice and crushed flowers.”