In Today’s Newsletter:
The D Team
New Dunnuck Reviews
For Darnaud, Delas & Durand
Collectible Magnums
Just Arrived Rosenthal Rosés
Domaine de Montille
Killer White Burg
Rosenthal Imports’ Cult St Aubin:
Henri Prudhon
Assortment of 2008 Champagne
The D Team
New Dunnuck Reviews
For Darnaud, Delas & Durand
We’ll kick start this feature with the lowest price value in our newsletter: Delas Freres’ St Joseph.
Want to buy it elsewhere? You’d have to pay over 50% more on average!
Jeb Dunnuck on Delas Frères:
“Delas Frères is another largely negotiate estate that is fashioning brilliant wines from throughout the Rhône Valley. The incredible quality has been led by Burgundian Jacques Grange, who joined Delas Frères in 1997, and he’s assisted by the talented Claire Darnaud… They’ve done a fine job in 2016, with the wines showing more elegant characters, missing the density or structure of a top year, yet offering balanced, very drinkable profiles… It’s worth noting that this estate has seen a progression in style since 2005, where the wines were more extracted and oaky, to the 2016s and 2017s today, which could be seen as more mid-weight and elegant.”-JD
Delas Freres Saint Joseph Sainte Epine 2016 750ML ($59.95) $49 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Jeb Dunnuck 94 points “Always one of the wines of the appellation, the 2016 Saint Joseph Sainte Epine from Delas comes from a terrific terroir just north of Tournon. This is a sunny yet cooler, windy region of pure granite soils, and the wine spent 16 months in new and once-used barrels. Saturated purple-colored, with lots of cassis, crushed violets, and liquid rock aromas and flavors, it’s seamless and elegant on the palate, with beautiful finesse in its tannins and rocking purity of fruit. This beauty just glides across the palate, is medium-bodied, impeccably balanced, and a classic Northern Rhône Syrah that will keep for a decade.”
The next best price is $66.98
The average listed price is $79
The 2016 versions are a worthy follow up to their breakthrough 2015’s. From the low to the (relatively) high end, these are wines that over deliver at each price point. The Crozes region in general offers a good deal of value, but, as we found out last year, Darnaud is something unique.
Emmanuel Darnaud Crozes Hermitage Au Fil Du Temps 2016 750ML ($49.95) $39 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Emmanuel Darnaud Crozes Hermitage Au Fil Du Temps 2016 1.5L ($99.95) $89 special, 5 magnums in stock now
Jeb Dunnuck 93 points “The 2016 Crozes Hermitage Au Fil Du Temps comes from the alluvial soils in the southern part of the appellation and was brought up in 50% French oak. Sporting a saturated purple color, it offers impressive notes of crème de cassis, black raspberries, crushed pepper, and ample floral and incense notes. With medium to full body, solid elegance and balance, and moderate tannins, you can drink it today or cellar bottles for 7-8 years.”
The average listed price is $44
Jeb Dunnuck 92 points “The 2016 Crozes Hermitage Les Trois Chênes comes from alluvial and pebbly soils and was mostly destemmed and brought up in demi-muids and tanks. Similarly colored, with lots of blackberry, spice, peppery herbs, and hints of incense, this beauty hits the palate with medium to full-bodied richness, a rounded, layered texture, sweet tannins, and a great finish. It’s very much in the charming, forward style of the vintage and ideal for drinking over the coming 5-7 years (I suspect it will keep even longer).”
Emmanuel Darnaud Saint Joseph Lieu Dit La Dardouille 2016 1.5L ($99.95) $89 special, 2 magnums in stock now
Jeb Dunnuck 94 points “The 2016 Saint Joseph Lieu Dit La Dardouille comes from a fabulous terroir (Jean-Louis Chave also works with this vineyard) and was brought up a mix of once- and twice-used demi-muids and barrels. It offers ripe, sexy notes of crème de cassis, violets, and graphite, with subtle new oak covered by beautifully pure fruit. With medium to full-bodied richness and depth, sweet tannins, and a great finish, it’s a gem of a Saint Joseph that will be better with 2-3 years of bottle age and cruise for a decade. Hats off to the young Emmanuel Darnaud for another beautiful wine.”
Arriving This Month:
Eric Et Joel Durand Cornas Confidence 2016 750ML ($59.95) $49 pre-arrival special, ETA April 2019
Jeb Dunnuck 95+ points “The 2016 Cornas Confidence is the flagship cuvée of the estate and comes from the La Côte and Tézier lieux-dits in Cornas, both of which are shallow, granitic parcels. It’s slightly tighter and more focused compared to the sexier Empreintes and has more cassis and blackberry fruits as well as lots of cedarwood, ground pepper, and earth-like aromatics. This full-bodied, concentrated 2016 has beautiful purity, a ripe, layered texture, and building tannins. It’s a serious 2016 to drink over the coming 10-15 years.”
Eric Et Joel Durand Cornas Empreintes 2016 750ML ($49.95) $39 pre-arrival special, ETA April 2019
Eric Et Joel Durand Cornas Empreintes 2016 1.5L ($99.95) $79 pre-arrival special, ETA April 2019
Jeb Dunnuck 95 points “Deep purple-colored, the 2016 Cornas Empreintes is a smoking good effort. Blackberries, plums, cured meats, pepper, and earthy notes all flow from this rounded, sexy, powerful Cornas that has beautiful mid-palate depth and density as well as a great finish. Drink this smoking good 2016 any time over the coming decade.”
Eric Et Joel Durand Cornas Premices 2016 750ML ($39.95) $33 pre-arrival special, ETA April 2019
Case-6 Eric Et Joel Durand Cornas Premices 2016 750ML ($219.95) $179 pre-arrival special (that’s only $29.83/bottle!), ETA April 2019
Jeb Dunnuck 91 points “Moving to the Cornas trio, the 2016 Cornas Premices is a terrific wine for readers who want to understand the vintage in Cornas as well as this estate. Classic notes of black fruits, charred meats, violets, and pepper all emerge from this medium-bodied, supple, balanced Cornas that has light tannins and an already approachable, charming, layered style. Drink it over the coming decade.”
Eric et Joel Durand Saint-Peray 2017 750ML ($29.95) $24 pre-arrival special, ETA April 2019
Jeb Dunnuck 90 points “The only white, the 2017 Saint-Péray from the Durand team is outstanding stuff, offering a light gold color, perfumed tropical fruits, peach, and mint, medium body, and a fresh, focused style on the palate. This beauty has some obvious salinity and minerality on the finish and will drink nicely for 2-4 years.”
Collectible Magnums
Sine Qua Non Into The Dark Grenache, Sta Rita Hills 2004 1.5L ($2199.95) $1599 special, 1 magnum in stock now
Wine Advocate 99 points “More up-front and open-knit, the 2004 Into the Dark (Grenache) checks in as a blend of 84% Grenache, 8% Mourvedre, 7% Syrah and 1% Viognier that comes mostly from Manfred’s 11 Confessions Vineyard, yet includes small portions from Alban (10%) and Alta Mesa (9%) Vineyard. Reminding me of Clos Saint-Jean’s Sanctus Sanctorum with its incredible bouquet of sweet kirsch, licorice, dried baking spices, graphite and ground pepper, this beauty flows onto the palate with impeccable purity, perfect integration of its fruit, tannin and acidity, and blockbuster length. As is common with this estate’s wine, it’s the purity paired with serious richness that sets it apart. While still youthful and benefiting from a healthy decadence, I think it’s drinking at point and would aim to drink bottles over the coming 4-5 years. It will evolve gracefully for longer, but I see no reason to hold off.”
Chateau Pavie, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 2000 1.5L ($1999.95) $1699 special, 1 magnum in stock now
Robert Parker 100 points “Just beginning to come around and strut its enormous potential, this wine at age 15 has been evolving like a glacier. The wine has an inky, opaque, plum/purple color and a stunningly rich nose of mulberries, bramble berries, blackberries, licorice and incense as well as touches of toast and graphite. Fabulously concentrated and full-bodied, with a multidimensional mouthfeel, this profound Pavie is in mid-adolescence. It should evolve and continue to drink well for at least another 30-40 years. This is clearly the first compelling effort made by the Perse family.” 8/2015
Chateau d’Yquem, Sauternes 2015 1.5L ($1099.95) $979 special, 3 magnums in stock now
Chateau d’Yquem, Sauternes 2015 750ML ($499.95) $449 special, 17 bottles in stock now
Wine Advocate 98-100 points “The 2015 Château d’Yquem is a blend of 75% Semillon and 25% Sauvignon Blanc that was picked on the gravelly soils as early as 3 and 4 September until 21 October, four tries through the vineyard. It delivers 144 grams per liter of residual sugar, with six-grams of tartaric acid, a pH 3.65 and 13.9% alcohol. It has a show-stopping bouquet that is beautifully defined and very complex and exuberant, infused with greater mineralité than recent vintages – intense but not as flamboyant as say the 2009 Yquem at this stage. The palate boasts absolutely stunning balance. This is a Yquem without a hair out of place: fantastically pure, botrytised fruit caressing the mouth. That is as per normal. What distinguishes this Yquem is the sense of electricity that is imbued by that razor-sharp acidity. There is just unbelievably tension here and to be frank, there is little point in me continuing to write this note, because it is simply an astonishing Yquem that will rank alongside the 2001 and 2009.”
Eisele Vineyard (Araujo) Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley 2015 1.5L ($1299.95) $959 special, 4 magnums in stock now
Wine Advocate 100 points “Medium to deep garnet-purple in color, the 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon charges from the gate with exuberant red and black cherries notes, black currants and mulberries with a beautiful roses and lavender perfume, plus hints of sandalwood and cinnamon stick. Full-bodied, concentrated and downright explosive in the mouth, it is still wearing loads of gorgeous puppy-fat fruit flavors, offering suggestions of the complex, multilayered blockbuster that it will emerge into. The structure deserves its own mention: wonderful, seamless freshness and oh-so-fine, pixelated tannins, with an extraordinary persistence of fruit and mineral nuances. Wow.”
Antonio Galloni 99 points “Eisele Vineyard’s 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon is without question one of the wines of the vintage. Majestic and soaring in the glass, the 2015 is absolutely stunning from the very first taste. A rush of dark fruit, graphite, grilled herb, smoke, leather, earthiness and exotic spices makes a bold opening statement, but it is the wine’s breath, volume and sheer intensity that are all off the charts. I tasted the 2015 blind in a flight of wines from Calistoga’s Pickett Road neighborhood. All of the wines were terrific, but the wine that was most moving and most profound was unquestionably the 2015 from Eisele Vineyard.”
Winery cellar release
Ridge Vineyards Monte Bello, Santa Cruz Mountains 1995 1.5L ($799.95) $699 special, 2 magnums in stock now
Antonio Galloni 97 points “[Tasted in July 2016] The 1995 Monte Bello is powerful, bright and incisive. At twenty years of age, the 1995 retains gorgeous, refreshing acidity that gives the wine lift and energy. The 1995 is a brooding Monte Bello, with darker tonalities of fruit and accompanying notes of smoke, licorice, spice, menthol, tobacco and cedar. Although the 1995 is striking today, it could also use more time in bottle, as it remains a touch compact and austere, especially next to the 2012 and 2002 tasted alongside it. Readers who enjoy cool, mineral and savory inflected Cabernets will adore the 1995, a wine that will drink well for another 20 years. Vineyard manager David Gates describes 1995 as a cool, relaxed, late ripening season that yielded small berries with elevated tannins. A second recent bottle was a bit more open and ample. Either way, the 1995 Monte Bello is a remarkably vivid, expressive wine that has a long life ahead of it.”
James Suckling 97 points “[Tasted in 2012] Amazing flowers and lavender and blackberries. Love the nose. Tobacco and cigar box. Full-bodied, with firm and round tannins. Then there’s rosemary and berry on the finish. Give it time.”
Kapcsandy Family Winery State Lane Vineyard Roberta’s Reserve, Napa Valley 2012 1.5L ($799.95) $699 special, 1 magnum in stock
Antonio Galloni 98 points “The 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Grand Vin opens with the most beguiling bouquet imaginable. Freshly cut flowers, mint, cinnamon and licorice all make an appearance as this vivid, beautifully delineated wine opens up in the glass. A model of total finesse and elegance, the 2009 wraps around the palate with what feels like endless layers of aromas and flavors. This totally seamless, polished Cabernet Sauvignon is virtually impossible to resist today, but it will be even better in another few years. The 2009 is 96% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Merlot and 1% Cabernet Franc.”
Taylor Fladgate Vintage Port, Portugal 2003 1.5L ($299.95) $249 special, 5 magnums in stock now
Robert Parker – Hedonist’s Gazette 100 points ” I noticed the Chinese love to have both a sweet wine and a vintage port at the end of a meal, which is pretty much over-kill for me. However, I was blown away by the 2003 Taylors vintage port. The Great Wall of China, Black Tie Dinner.”
Pierre Ravoni – Wine Advocate 95 points “The 2003 Taylor’s has a lovely ripe, primal bouquet of blackberry, raspberry, vanilla and marmalade that shows slightly better delineation than the Fonseca. The palate is medium-bodied with very composed, refined tannins that belie the heat of that summer. There is wonderful focus here and fine tension, the finish offering precise notes of black cherries, mulberry, cloves and white pepper. This is one of the finest Ports of a precocious vintage. Tasted May 2013.”
Just Arrived Rosenthal Rosés
Neal Rosenthal brings in arguably the best collection of rosé from Europe. From Pradeaux in Bandol to Peyrassol in Provence and Bagnol in Cassis, his rosés are the defining examples of their appellations. We tend to think of Rosenthal rosé as being especially elegant and nuanced, with excellent minerality and poise.
We have the first few, from fan favorites Peyrassol and Gour de Chaule, just arrived and we couldn’t be more excited. The rest (Pradeaux, etc.) arrive over the next month, but these always are the first true markers of spring for us.
Just Arrived, In Stock Now:
Peyrassol ‘Le Clos Peyrassol’ Rose, Cotes de Provence 2018 750ML ($59.95) $49 special
Peyrassol ‘Le Clos Peyrassol’ Rose, Cotes de Provence 2018 1.5L ($119.95) $99 special
Importer note “It is made from a single parcel which is equally planted to Cinsault and Tibouren (a touch of Rolle makes it into this cuvee as well). The soil is a mix of clay and limestone with a lot of large rocks on the surface. The site has a bit of depression which helps more even ripening, since the soil holds a little more water than other parcels. The 2016 is the palest of the three roses, with a very silvery salmon hue. At the moment of tasting the nose was a tad firm, showing flinty mineral notes. The palate is quite rich and dense with an almost white Burgundy presence. The fruits lean a little sweeter than the other cuvées, with hints of pear and passion fruit. Even so, the wine is completely dry and has a super-long mineral finish. It’s a great rosé that has the potential to age, and we hope some of you keep a few bottles to drink over the next several years.”
Peyrassol ‘Chateau Peyrassol’ Rose, Cotes de Provence 2018 1.5L ($99.95) $79 special
Peyrassol ‘Chateau Peyrassol’ Rose, Cotes de Provence 2018 3L ($199.95) $169 special
Importer note “This is the elite cuvée of the estate relying as it does on grapes harvested from the oldest vines of the domaine (35 years and older). Principally composed of Cinsault, Grenache and Syrah, the “Chateau” bottling also sees the addition, from time-to-time of Tibouren, the ancient and regal Provencale grape. This Rosé is produced via the “direct press” method and has a long cuvaison designed to produce a wine of character and concentration. Vinified in stainless steel and bottled in late winter – early spring, production is quite limited.”
These are the only listings in the USA for the large formats!
*****Shipping Not Available for 6L Bottle*****
Peyrassol ‘Commanderie de Peyrassol’ Rose, Cotes de Provence 2018 1.5L ($51.95) $47 special
Importer note “For us, this wine is the classic representation of the pink-tinted wines of this region and is the workhorse wine of the estate. It carries a pale rose color, a lovely fruit blossom nose and finishes crisply dry with a stony touch that gives it class and elegance. The grape blend is usually Cinsault, Grenache and Syrah in varying percentages. The average age of the vines is 25 years or more. The Rosés of Peyrassol are made from the direct press method. The grapes undergo cold maceration before being pressed. This gives them their beautiful watermelon pink color. The fermentation takes place under controlled temperatures and is exceptionally long, resulting in rosés that are both lively, fresh and full-bodied. As production has increased at Peyrassol with the additional plantings, we too have increased our purchases.”Domaine du Gour de Chaule Gigondas Amour de Rose, Rhone 2018 750ML ($27.95) $24 special
Importer note “The Rosé at Gour de Chaulé is made from the direct press method. The juice is quickly drawn off the skins (6 to 9 hours of contact), then fermented. A cold stabilization follows. The wine does not undergo malolactic fermentation and is bottled in the early spring of the year following harvest. The Rosé is composed of Cinsault (50%), Grenache, and Mourvedre. This is a brilliantly colored wine with hues of pink and rose accompanied by flavors and a bouquet dominated by the impression of freshly crushed strawberries. Again, a limited amount of this wine is produced annually, only enough for us to have 1200 bottles per year for the US market.”
Domaine de Montille
Killer White Burg
de Montille is one of the most storied names in Burgundy, producing notably long-lived wines from prime holdings in Volnay and Pommard. In recent years, though, they’ve expanded their white program and are now one of the preeminent producers of white Burgundy. Most of this stems from Etienne de Montille’s appointment as the head of the Chateau du Puligny-Montrachet in 2002, where he oversaw a revitalization of the estate and paved the way for his family domaine’s acquisition of it a decade later.
Those prime holdings, combined with Etienne’s passion for white wines and winemaker Brian Sieve’s touch with the grape, have catapulted de Montille into the conversation as one of the best producers of Chardonnay in the Cote d’Or. We have a small allocation of their 2016’s (a top tier white Burg vintage) arriving at the end of the week and would urge any lover of white Burgundy to put these in their cellar en masse.
Just Arrived, In Stock Now:
Domaine de Montille Bourgogne Blanc 2016 750ML ($44.95) $36 special, 11 bottles in stock now
Domaine de Montille Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Cote de Beaune 2016 1.5L ($419.95) $379 special, 1 magnum in stock now
Burghound 91-93 points “Strong reduction dominates the fruit at present. Otherwise there is excellent richness to the succulent but punchy and powerful flavors that possess a sleek muscularity as well as ample minerality that really comes up on the long if slightly rustic finish which is unusual for this wine.”
Stephen Tanzer 92+ points “Bright yellow. Musky pineapple and lemon aromas offer a bit less lift today than the Cailleret but plenty of allure. Less sweet and pristine in the middle palate than the Cailleret, but a bit thicker in texture, with the stony underpinning and spine of lemony acidity to give it a seriously penetrating quality. A sexy element of reduction adds to this young wine’s considerable appeal. Conveys a strong, tactile impression of dry extract without any rough edges and finishes salty and long. A year ago, the Cailleret seemed creamier and more harmonious than this wine but this has put on weight without any loss of tension.”
Burghound 90-92 points “Moderate reduction and sulfur undertones make the nose tough to assess. Otherwise there is fine volume and density to the tautly muscular flavors that evidence good power and punch on the drier, more complex and longer finish.”
Most of the time when the phrase “cult wine” is used we think of small production, pricy wines with lots of points. But, every now and then, we see a wine that breaks that mold and the wines from Domain Henri Prudhon are prime examples. They aren’t expensive (or big or rich) but they are hard for us to source because they occupy a unique place in the Burgundy world. For one, they’re incredibly fairly priced, which seems to be rarer than ever before in Burgundy, but most of all, they’re mineral driven wines—even the reds.
These are red and white Burgs for lovers of dry Riesling. High in acid, bright but with just enough fruit to tie everything together, they have a crunchiness to them that can be hard to find. They’re held back before release and so in this case both the whites and reds are from outstanding vintages, especially for the cooler St. Aubin terroir that the Prudhon family owns. This set is really something. We’ve probably said more than we should already, but here’s your first chance at them—and we can’t promise they’ll be available after arrival.
Importer (Neal Rosenthal) Note “This cuvée is drawn from several parcels in Saint Aubin that comprise about 7/10 of a hectare. The vines are a mix of young (10 years) and old (40 years). Clay and limestone soils with a western exposure in the western most sector of the village of Saint Aubin. The wine is aged in small barrel for eight months but no new oak is used.”
Case-12 Henri Prudhon & Fils Saint-Aubin Les Argillers Rouge, Cote de Beaune 2015 750ML ($379.95) $299 pre-arrival special (that’s only $24.92/bottle!)
Importer (Neal Rosenthal) Note ““Les Argillers” sits on the upper reaches of the slope of Saint-Aubin, just south of “Le Ban” and bordering the forest. Prudhon farms two hectares of 30-to-60-year-old vines here, and the wine they produce tends to be snappy, mineral-driven, and floral—less about Pinot Noir plushness and more about the freshness and drive of a cool-climate red wine.”
Burghound “A pretty and fresh mix of red and dark raspberry aromas reveals earth and soft spice nuances. There is better volume to the sappy, round and succulent middle weight flavors that possess a bit more overall depth and length as well as slightly more supporting structure.”
Case-12 Henri Prudhon & Fils Les Frionnes Rouge, Saint-Aubin Premier Cru 2015 750ML ($479.95) $389 pre-arrival special (that’s only $32.42/bottle!)
Importer (Neal Rosenthal) Note “The Prudhons own a solid hectare of vines between 30 and 60 years of age in this premier cru that lies just to the north of “Les Perrieres.” In keeping with the Prudhon house style, “Frionnes” emphasizes the freshness and raciness of Saint-Aubin—there is virtually no new oak used in its elevage, and there’s a certain restraint and brightness to the fruit that feels self-assured and very terroir-loyal.”
Burghound “A spicy and again attractively fresh nose offers up notes of red currant, black raspberry and a hint of violet. The mouth feel of the medium-bodied flavors is also sappy and round with reasonably good vibrancy to the naturally sweet finale. This should be enjoyable young if that’s your preference.”
Case-12 Henri Prudhon & Fils Les Rouges Gorges, Saint-Aubin Premier Cru 2015 750ML ($479.95) $389 pre-arrival special (that’s only $32.42/bottle!)
Importer (Neal Rosenthal) Note “his wine is produced from two separate parcels: one on a hillside above the hamlet of Gamay and the other from a parcel between Saint Aubin and Chassagne Montrachet. The average age of the vines is 50 years (as of 2011). A classic wine of this sector with compelling notes of animal and wild berries. The elevage is about 18 months before bottling; again, very little new oak is used.”
Burghound 87-90 points “Here the expressive nose is spicier still with its layered array of various red berries, soft earth and pretty floral nuances. There is a bit more volume to the slightly richer, seductive and caressing medium weight flavors that exude a subtle minerality onto the mildly austere and rustic finale. This could use a few years to round out.”
Case-12 Henri Prudhon & Fils Sur le Sentier du Clou Vieilles Vignes Rouge, Saint-Aubin Premier Cru 2015 750ML ($479.95) $389 pre-arrival special (that’s only $32.42/bottle!)
Burghound 89-91 points “This possesses the most elegant and perhaps even the most complex nose in the range with its layered assortment of red and black cherry, plum, violet and freshly turned earth scents. The fine complexity continues onto the solidly concentrated and more obviously mineral-inflected flavors that possess a relatively sophisticated mouth feel while concluding in a balanced and lingering finish. This is really quite good and worth considering.”
Importer (Neal Rosenthal) Note “This wine is from some of the oldest vines in the estate, planted between 40 and 80 years ago (as of 2011). The parcel is about 1.5 hectare in size and sits on a hillside between Saint Aubin and Gamay with an east-southeast exposure. There is an elevage of 15 to 18 months (with very little new oak used). Perhaps the most serious and complex of the red wines of the domaine with a character dominated by red fruits and spices supported by substantial backbone.”
Burghound “Spicy aromas of primarily green apple and citrus precede the racy, intense and delectably delicious flavors that exhibit fine length on the saline and agreeably very dry finish. A quality effort and worth your interest”
Importer (Neal Rosenthal) Note “Prudhon’s exemplary Aligoté comes from two plots—one in Saint-Aubin and one in Puligny-Montrachet—totaling just under a half-hectare. The vines are between 30 and 60 years old, and the wine is aged in stainless steel and bottled on the early side to preserve freshness”
Burghound “Here too the expressive nose flashes notes of green apple along with those of lemon zest and white flowers. There is a bit more volume if not quite the same energy to the agreeably textured flavors that offers very good depth and length in the context of what is typical for the genre. This too is worth considering.”
Burghound 88 points “An admirably subtle application of wood can be discerned on the perfumed array that reflects notes of pear, floral and a whiff of tangerine. There is both good volume and richness to the plump, round and delicious flavors that exhibit a bracing salinity on the nicely detailed, dry and clean finale. This should reward a few years of cellaring but be approachable young too.”
Importer (Neal Rosenthal) Note “This village level white is sourced from multiple parcels that cover 2 2/3 hectare; the bulk of the vineyards are hillside situated and are found in the southwestern quadrant of the village. The age of the vines varies from 10 to 60 years (as of 2011). The soil is clay and limestone and the exposition is south-southeast. No new oak is utilized on this cuvée and the elevage is about eight months long.”
Burghound 89 points “Notes of green apples, matchstick and plenty of citrus elements introduce the round, caressing and utterly delicious medium weight flavors that possess good sap for such young vines, all wrapped in a sneaky long finish. This too should be enjoyable on the younger side.”
Importer (Neal Rosenthal) Note ““Les Castets” sits just underneath “Le Ban,” and it marks the beginning of a swath of premier crus that form the “fillet” of the slope above the village itself. Produced from a miniscule 0.3-hectare parcel, it shows more richness and breadth on the palate than “Le Ban” above, but with a similar vibrancy. Prudhon’s vines here are 15 years old, and they employ a modest 25% new oak, which the premier-cru density of the wine absorbs well.”
Burghound 90 points “The fresh and expressive nose is notably more floral in character with its aromas of Granny Smith apples, lemon-lime and matchstick hints. There is really good punch to the well-delineated medium-bodied flavors that conclude in a compact, stony and youthfully austere citrus-inflected finish that is quite dry. This is pretty tightly wound at present but my sense is that it should open up relatively quickly.”
Importer (Neal Rosenthal) Note “The beautifully situated “La Chatenière” sits right next to “Sur Gamay” on the slope (its northern edge is the southern edge of “Sur Gamay”). Prudhon owns a painfully tiny parcel here—barely a tenth of a hectare of 40-year-old Chardonnay—and the wine is always a standout, suggesting its close proximity to grand cru territory with a richer palate than the preceding wines. “La Chatenière” sees one-third new oak each year (Prudhon typically produces just three barrels, one of which is always new), but the wine bears next to no trace of wood influence.”
Burghound 90 points “A nicely complex combination offers up notes of apple and pear compote that is laced with hints of grapefruit and spiced tea. The middle weight flavors possess even better mid-palate concentration if not the same minerality or complexity on the fleshy, very dry and focused finale.”
Importer (Neal Rosenthal) Note “As the name implies, this parcel of approximately ¾ of an hectare sits on a hillside overlooking the neighboring hamlet of Gamay (directly east of Saint Aubin and a neighbor to Puligny). The vineyard is a mix of 20 year old and 60 year old vines. The soils are classic clay and limestone and the vineyards face southwest. As with the other 1er Cru whites, this wine ages in barrel (20% new oak) for 12 months before bottling. The “Sur Gamay” yields a complex wine that often requires several years to express its full character marked by notes of honey and minerals.”
Burghound 91 points “An attractively pure and expressive nose is comprised of green apple, pear, floral hints and mineral reduction scents. There is plenty of the hallmark minerality of a fine Perrières as well as good vibrancy on the utterly delicious and complex flavors that conclude in a clean, dry and mildly austere finish that is like rolling small stones around in the mouth. This too is good stuff.”
Importer (Neal Rosenthal) Note “Les Perrières” sits just below “Sur le Sentier du Clou” on the slope, immediately north of the village itself, and the Prudhons own a half-hectare of 35-year-old vines here. It’s typically more firmly mineral and linear than “Sentier du Clou,” and this 2016 follows suit, with a strict, tightly focused palate of immense electricity.”
Burghound 91 points “There is a whiff of the exotic present on the mandarin orange, white peach and hint of lychee-suffused aromas. There is a bit more volume, particularly on the mid-palate, to the medium-bodied flavors that possess a highly seductive texture on the markedly more complex and persistent finish. Good stuff.”
Importer (Neal Rosenthal) Note “Always a standout in Prudhon’s cellar, “Sur le Sentier du Clou” produces both white and red wine of great character. The Prudhons own a 0.4-hectare parcel of 35-year-old Chardonnay in this vineyard, which lies in the heart of the western flank of Saint-Aubin, completely surrounded by other premier crus.”
Burghound 88-91 points “A typical Puligny nose combines notes of white flower and white-fleshed fruit with those of spice and soft citrus nuances. There is a more sophisticated mouth feel if not the same complexity to the delicious and solidly concentrated flavors that are also generously proportioned before concluding in a sappy and persistent finish. It’s possible that this will ultimately catch the Houillères but for the moment its Chassagne cousin has the edge. Note that this should be approachable young if that’s your fruit preference.”
Importer (Neal Rosenthal) Note ““Les Enseignères” is one of those stealth values in the complex world of Burgundy. Its western border is the eastern edge of Batard-Montrachet, and it is one of the rare spots in the Cote d’Or where grand cru slopes directly down into village-level with no premier cru in between. The Prudhons own just shy of a hectare of quite old vines here—between 30 and 80 years of age.”
Assortment of 2008 Champagne
2008 evokes memories of the 1996 and 2002 vintages in terms of style and greatness, respectively. This is an epic year and one that for many producers is just beginning to hit the market. We’re featuring a new offer on some top wines below, all well below the average price nationally!
“The 2008 Champagnes that have been released so far capture all the potential I sensed when I first tasted the young vins clairs right after harvest. The 2008s are racy, energetic and tense, in the style of cool years like 1996, but with more fruit depth and less austerity. At the top end, the finest 2008 Champagnes are viscerally thrilling, chiseled wines that will soon be recognized as modern-day icons. Temperatures were never too hot during the summer and ripening was gradual. Two thousand eight is a year with high acidity, approaching 10% in some cases, and also high potential natural alcohol (because of the improved weather in September), a combination that yielded vibrant, crystalline Champagnes. Of course wine is much more complex than numbers alone, but the first 2008s I have tasted point to an exceptional, and perhaps even legendary, vintage.” –Vinous Media
“One of the best two vintages of this decade. A return to a classic, dry style in a cooler year. Powerful fruit and scintillating acidity in complete harmony. A real keeper to 2025 or later. 5/5” -Decanter
Arriving ETA May:
Deutz Amour de Deutz Blanc de Blancs Brut Millesime, Champagne 2008 750ML ($199.95) $159 pre-arrival special
Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 95 points “The citrus-colored 2008 Amour de Deutz Brut Millésime is still yeasty on the nose, but very clear and elegant on the palate. This is a super pure and mineral, well-balanced Millésime with a long, intense and persistent finish. This is full of tension and finesse. A great wine.”
Wine Enthusiast 95 points “[Review is for 375ml] This wine is rich and surprisingly full-bodied. It comes from a great Champagne vintage, giving it both intensity and an acidity built for longterm aging. This half-bottle version is filling out, showing almond flavors yet retaining its citrus edge. Drink from 2019.”
Antonio Galloni 94 points “The 2008 Brut Millésimé Amour de Deutz is gorgeous. Bright and focused in the glass, the 2008 is full of nuance. A hint of reduction adds complexity without overpowering the wine. Crushed rocks, lemon confit and passion fruit flavors offer an appealing interplay of brightness and more overt flavors. The Amour is one of the more open, accessible 2008s readers will come across at this stage. Today, it is particularly expressive.”
Wine Spectator 94 points “An elegant version, this is sleek and harmonious, offering a finely detailed mousse and expressive hints of mango and passion fruit layered with flavors of glazed apricot, pastry cream and candied ginger. Minerally finish. Drink now through 2030.”
Deutz Amour de Deutz Rose Brut Millesime, Champagne 2008 750ML ($219.95) $189 pre-arrival special
Antonio Galloni 95 points “The 2008 Brut Rosé Millésimé Amour de Deutz is gorgeous and crystalline in the glass, as Champagnes from this vintage tend to be. Light on its feet yet also quite intense, the 2008 exudes energy in its finely sculpted red berry, floral and mineral-infused notes. The 2008 could use a bit more time in bottle to soften, but it is undeniably beautiful, even at this early stage.”
Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 94 points “Deutz’ Millésime 2008 Amour de Deutz Rosé Brut shows a pale but brilliant salmon color and a clear, delicate bouquet of discreet red fruits as well as very fine spicy and floral notes. The palate is highly delicate and fresh, firmly structured and nicely dry, with good, dense, aromatic and well-structured length. However, the wine is still young and not yet perfectly round.” [Review is for lot LA112D32216]
Wine Spectator 93 points “Spring blossom and mineral notes waft through the flavors of white cherry, star fruit and marzipan in this elegant rosé Champagne, while the sleek acidity is finely meshed and carries the flavor range on the lacy finish. Drink now through 2028.”
Piper-Heidsieck Brut, Champagne 2008 750ML ($79.95) $59 pre-arrival special
Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 94 points “The 2008 Vintage Brut offers a clear and toasty aroma on the nose. Pure, fresh, lean and delicate but complex and mineral on the palate, this is a lithe and elegant, very finessed and persistent 2008 with grip and expression. This is a complex, intense yet light and very elegant Champagne with a pure, mineral-structured and persistent finish.”
Wine Spectator 93 points “An elegant, toasty version, featuring firm, focusing acidity layered with rich hints of canelé, dried apricot, coffee liqueur and star anise. Bright and citrusy, with a long, mouthwatering finish. Drink now through 2027. 125 cases imported.”
Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Brut, Champagne 2008 750ML ($ 89.95) $69 special (2 bottles in stock now, more arriving in May)
Case-6 Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Brut, Champagne 2008 750ML ($399.95) $359 pre-arrival special (that’s only $59.83/bottle!)
Decanter 96 points “It is quite something to be invited to the launch of Champagne Veuve Clicquot 2008 at Clos des Lambrays, one of the finest grands crus of Burgundy’s Côte de Nuits and acquired by LVMH in April 2014. It was rumoured to have paid close to €100m. The Veuve Clicquot 2008 is VC Chef de Caves Dominique Demarville’s first solo vintage. What fascinated him at Lambrays was winemaker Thierry Brouin’s consummate talent in capturing from the red iron-rich soil a wonderfully bright character in the wine- so fresh, rich yet elegant, density and delicacy in magical harmony. The same can be said for my two coups de coeur in Clicquot 2008. — Veuve Clicquot 2008 (Magnum) — Shimmering green-gold. Easily up several notches from the bottle. Perfect balance of freshness, ripe acidity and complex vinosity to come. Near perfect wine, patina of seasoned spice of subtle oak. — Elegant and complex Champagne with plenty of fine mousse and flavours of toast, smoke and roasted fruit notes to balance the fresh acidity. A refined and refreshing fullbodied wine in a gastronomic style with the potential to drink well for many years.”
Thank you for reading!