In Today’s Newsletter:
Thought You Missed It?
Re-Arriving Friday
Baumard’s Quarts de Chaume
Featured New Arrival:
95 pts/ $25 / Spanish Garnacha
New Week – New Arrivals
Staff Pick
Trending Wines of the Weekend
Arriving Friday & Newly Reviewed:
Occhiphinti SP68 Rosso
Old-Old-Vine Cab @ Old-Old-School Price
Domaine Garon:
A Remembrance of Things Past
Fall in Love with the February Sale
Thought You Missed It?
Re-Arriving Friday
Baumard’s Quarts de Chaume
A Wine Spectator Top 100 Pick!
Domaine des Baumard Quarts de Chaume, Loire 2015 375ML ($59.95) $49 pre-arrival special
Wine Spectator 98 points “Highly Recommended. Waves of creamed Jonagold apple, Cavaillon melon, mirabelle plum, mango and white peach flavors provide thrilling range, while flashes of honeysuckle and verbena add detail and focus throughout. Unctuous yet pure, sweet yet invigorating, with an inner brightness that matches the outward hedonism. Best from 2020 through 2045. 100 cases imported.”
Featured New Arrival
Olivier Riviere ‘El Cadastro’, Arlanza 2014 750ML ($39.95) $28 specialCase-12 Olivier Riviere ‘El Cadastro’, Arlanza 2014 750ML ($419.95) $299 special (that’s only $24.92/bottle!)
Luis Gutierez-Wine Advocate 95 points “The 2013 was not produced, so we jumped to the 2014 Viñas del Cadastro, an old-vine cuvée with some varieties mixed in the field together with the Tempranillo, mostly some Garnacha, but also some isolated plants of Bobal, Garnacha Tintorera or other varieties. This is a ‘domaine’ wine, produced with grapes from his own vineyards, including the grapes from his flagship vineyard El Quemado in the years where it’s not bottled. There is a lot more depth and complexity here; it’s not heavy at all and it’s very balanced, and it feels like a very good vintage for this wine. It was produced with extremely low yields, some 1,500 kilos of grapes from hectare, but it doesn’t have the astringency you often find in very low yields; the vines seem to have achieved very good balance. It combines floral notes with some red and black wild berries and just a spicy twist. The wine opens up nicely with time in the glass. The tannins are very fine with the subtle austerity from the stony, deep gravel soils, coming through as extremely elegant and definitively fresher than 2012, with the alcohol pretty integrated despite having some 14.5% by volume. This is a superb Arlanza, by far the best wine I know from the small appellation. This isn’t cheap, but for the quality, it still represents very good value. 6,000 bottles were filled in September 2016. Frenchman Olivier Rivière has decided to only release his top wine from Arlanza, El Quemado, in the very best vintages, so he will bottle it in 2015 and 2016, which will be the first since 2011. In the mean time, all the best grapes go to the Viñas del Cadastro cuvée.”
The average price is $34
New Week – New Arrivals
Oregon
Staff pick producer! This up & coming, dry-farming bubbles producer makes some of the finest Willamette Valley sparklers for the money. Don’t miss their Blanc de Blanc or sparkling Riesling…
Mellen Meyer Brut Sparkling, Willamette Valley NV 750ML ($34.95) $28 special
KWG8 – Tasting Pour “From a small Willamette Valley producer specializing only in sparkling wine try this traditional Chardonnay and Pinot Noir blend for a dry, crisp elegant sparkling at a good price. Smells of green apples with a salty tart palate.”
Winery note “Grapes sourced from Johan VIneyard, Van Duzer Corridor and Dundee Hills. 35% Chardonnay, 65% Pinot Noir fermented in neutral French and Oregon oak. 25 months in tirage, 8 grams/ liter dosage. 350 cases produced.”
Wine Advocate 91 points “The 2015 Chardonnay Ribbon Ridge has a lovely nose of acacia blossom, fresh hay and wet stone over a core of red and yellow apples and lemon pith with touches of sliced almonds. Medium-bodied and lively in the mouth, it offers good layers of orchard and citrus fruit with mineral and earth notes plus toasty/nutty suggestions in the background. It’s slightly creamy in the mouth with a strong frame of acidity, finishing on a honey-nut note. 350 cases produced.”-EB
Winery note “Our Chardonnays are a homage to the ways of the Old World…specifically the great white wines of Burgundy. Fresh fruit is fully pressed and run into a variety of French oak barrels where it is allowed a native fermentation under the careful eye of the winemaker. Because we strive to reveal the essence of this exceedingly malleable grape, the juice sees few manipulations…a majority of the barrels are seasoned from use year after year…the percentage of new wood is kept decidedly low. The resulting wine completes malolactic fermentation and remains on its gross lees for a full year, after which it is moved to tank for another six months when it is bottled by hand in the farm winery.”
The average price is $29
Brick House Vineyards ‘Evelyn’s’ Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley 2015 750ML ($69.95) $59 special
Josh Raynolds – Vinous 94 points “Lurid red. A complex, highly perfumed bouquet evokes fresh red and dark berries, Asian spices and incense, and a hint of candied flowers emerges with aeration. Concentrated raspberry preserve, cherry cola and spicecake flavors show excellent clarity and stretch out and become sweeter and deeper on the back half. Shows outstanding clarity and spicy thrust on the impressively persistent finish, which is shaped by smooth, harmonious tannins that fold quickly into the juicy, lingering fruit.”
Wine Advocate 93 points “Pale to medium ruby-purple colored, the 2015 Pinot Noir Evelyn’s is a little youthfully mute, conjuring notions of red currants and pomegranate with hints of wild thyme, yeast extract, damp loam and mossy bark. Light to medium-bodied, the palate has a wonderfully fine-grained texture supporting elegant, delicate fruit, finishing with long-lasting savory and spice notes.”Brick House Vineyards ‘Les Dijonnais’ Pinot Noir, Ribbon Ridge 2016 750ML ($69.95) $49 special
Wine Advocate 94 points “Medium ruby in color, the 2016 Pinot Noir les Dijonnais has a classic nose of red cherries and berries with nuances of spiced cranberries and wonderful layers of earth and mineral: cola, wood smoke, dusty earth, dried tea leaves and touches of cracked pepper. Medium-bodied and silky textured, it fills the mouth with warm red fruits that carry the layers of earth and spice on the mouthwatering, layered finish. This is lovely! 650 cases produced.”
Josh Bergstrom is not one to rest on his laurels… Somehow these wines just get better and better every year. Bravo!
Bergstrom ‘Old Stones’ Chardonnay, Willamette Valley 2016 750ML ($39.95) $33 special
Wine & Spirits 92 points “Scents of preserved lemon and grapefruit peel are framed by a fine autolytic nuttiness. The flavors are no less complex, but the texture is bracing and lean, with a lemony bite and crisp, crunchy mouthfeel that makes you hungry for seafood, like salt-baked prawns.”
Winery note “The mighty Shea Vineyard is perhaps Oregon’s best-known vineyard site due to the fact that Dick and Deirdre Shea have been selling Pinot Noir fruit to some of America’s most highly acclaimed winemakers for the past 25 years. This 140-acre, mountainside vineyard located in the Yamhill-Carlton AVA is comprised of two different hills that rise several hundred feet in elevation, separated by a steep ravine… Shea Vineyard sits on ancient marine seabeds that were uplifted millions of years ago by volcanic activity. Unlike the Silice and Le Pré Du Col Vineyards (which lie only one to two miles east), Shea Vineyard has very thin soils with sandstone bedrock lying just inches from the surface in some areas. Here, the grapevines struggle each year to force their roots into the mother rock in search of moisture and minerals. For this reason, Shea Vineyard wines are rich with minerality, well structured and full of force. Because of Shea Vineyard’s low altitude, it is a very warm microclimate for the Willamette Valley, and its grapes have the opportunity to achieve full physiological maturity each and every vintage—another reason why wines from this site are consistently the most dense, structured and full-bodied of all of the Bergström Wines.”
Champagne
Staff cellar pick!
Pierre Gimonnet et Fils Cuvee Special Club Brut Millesime, Champagne 2012 750ML ($99.95) $79 special
Antonio Galloni 93 points “Interestingly, the 2012 Special Club is quite a bit riper and bigger than any of the three single-village Special Clubs. Light tropical overtones meld into a core of candied orange peel, apricot, chamomile and wild flowers. In this tasting, the 2012 comes across as adolescent and not fully put together. Hopefully that will come in time. Disgorged: July 20, 2017.”
Wine & Spirits 93 points “The most ornate and complex of the Gimonnet wines we tasted for this issue, this Special Club is built to age. Nearly half of the wine comes from ancient vines-the Montaigu vineyard, in Chouilly, planted in 1951, and parcels in Cramant planted in 1911 and ’13. Its flavors contrast sun and shadows, bright scents of jasmine, lemon and thyme against pale, earthy notes of chalk and gun flint. It buzzes with acidity and chalky abrasion, taut and intense. Treat it to some rest and relaxation in your cellar.”
Wine Spectator 92 points “Fresh and refined, with a delicate range of Honeycrisp apple, spring blossom, chalk and citrus flavors, this elegant Champagne is more about precision and fine texture than power and bold flavor. Disgorged May 2017. Drink now through 2028.”
The average price is $101
October 2017 Disgorgement
Antonio Galloni 95 points “The 2012 Brut Ivoire et Ebène is another fabulous wine in this range. Powerful, ample and resonant in the glass, the 2012 is superb from the moment it is first poured. Baked apple, pear, smoke and spice fill out the wine’s voluptuous frame, with a hint of French oak that add complexity without being overpowering. The combination of bright flavors and rich textures is compelling. Dosage is 3 grams per liter.” [Review is for June 2016 disgorgement]
Pierre Paillard ‘Les Terres Roses’ Bouzy Grand Cru Extra Brut Rose XIV, Champagne NV 750ML ($59.95) $49 special
Stephan Reinhardt note “Wow! Of all the producers I have met and the wines I have tasted during my Champagne tour in April and May this year, the cuvées from Champagne Pierre Paillard were among the most stunning. The domaine and the vineyards are entirely located in Bouzy Grand Cru, arguably one of the finest addresses in the Montagne de Reims if not in the entire Champagne region. Bouzy is also one of the warmest terroirs. You can expect round and full-bodied wines from here, often dominated by Pinot Noir. The wines that Antoine Paillard presented to me during a meeting in Cramant were breathtakingly precise, sharp and finessed. I already really liked the wines and the domaine two years ago, but the new cuvées are even better, or let’s say: dramatically better. The wines are by no means bold or rich, but they are so well defined and elegant that I’d call them great wines. This 11-hectare domaine (which produces 95,000 bottles at maximum per year), where a great attention is laid on the genetics of the vines and tie vitality of the soils, is most likely a rising top producer for Bouzy if the quality and style of the range I tasted becomes standard here.” [No review yet for the XIV]
The average price is $59
Burgundy
Featuring Domaine Forey
Domaine Forey’s wines exist in an odd medium place—quantities are extremely scarce because of the size of the domaine (and demand on the east coast) but somehow isn’t quite a “name” in the sense of a Coche or Roumier. The result is that we actually get to offer the wines to you. The 2016 vintage is, of course, a great year and more importantly it’s a year that plays into the style of the house. These look to be monumental wines.
Domaine Forey Pere et Fils Morey-Saint-Denis, Cote de Nuits 2016 750ML ($59.95) $49 special
Burghound 89 points “From Clos Solon and Les Crais. A discreet application of wood doesn’t materially intrude on the purity of the otherwise pretty, complex and perfumed nose of red currant, plum and a trace of underbrush. The succulent and agreeably punchy medium-bodied flavors retain a lovely sense of detail while delivering fine length on the saline-inflected finish. This is really quite good for its level and could easily be enjoyed young.”
The next best price is $59.99
Burghound 89 points “Touches of reduction and wood do not completely mask the earthy red berry fruit aromas. There is fine concentration to the muscular flavors that possess good underlying tension that continues onto the delicious, balanced and sneaky long finish. While this isn’t especially refined, it’s certainly less rustic than it usually is plus it offers very fine complexity. Good stuff.”
The next best price is $69.99
Burghound 89 points “Here too there is just enough reduction to shave the top notes from the black currant, violet, spiced tea and a whiff of wood toast. The notably more refined medium weight flavors possess both fine intensity and delineation while exhibiting good length on the sappy finish. This is very Vosne in style and I particularly like the sleek mouthfeel. A quality Vosne villages.”
The average price is $73
Burghound 89-92 points “Once again the nose is exuberantly fresh, evidencing red currant, raspberry, lavender and a hint of wood spice. The vibrant, detailed and utterly delicious flavors are not particularly dense but I like both the mouthfeel and the refreshing finale that is sufficiently complex to make this quite an attractive effort overall, plus it could be enjoyed young.”
Burghound 90 points “Moderate wood surrounds the relatively high-toned aromas of various red berries and markedly floral-infused aromas that include violet, lavender and rose petal. The sappy and sleekly textured medium weight flavors exude a fine bead of minerality on the impressively long and reasonably firm and mildly austere if slightly warm finale. Thanks to the relatively fine-grain of the supporting tannins this is a Nuits of comparative refinement if not actual finesse.”
Burghound 92-94 points “This is actually aromatically similar to the Echézeaux if slightly earthier and not quite as spicy. There is by contrast both more volume and more concentration as well to the bold, robust and broad-shouldered flavors that possess a velvety mid-palate that contrasts markedly with the distinctly firm and even mildly rustic and warm finish that is fashioned in a take-no-prisoners style. This is also potentially excellent but while the Ech could be approached young, this is a Clos de Vougeot that will definitely need extended cellaring.”
The next best price is $195
Burghound 92 points “Here too there is a touch of reduction that pushes the notes of red currant, cherry, violet and spice elements to the background. There is though good freshness to richer and even more full-bodied flavors that possess outstanding concentration thanks to the abundance of dry extract that coats the palate and buffers the slightly less structured finale that also offers fine length and solid depth. As pretty as this is though, it can’t match the evident class of the Gaudichots good as it is.”
The average price is $189
Sauternes
The Chateau elected to bottle the entire 2012 Sauternes harvest under their entry-level label since the vintage was not up to snuff, making this a rare gem at a bargain price.
Chateau Suduiraut Castelnau de Suduiraut, Sauternes 2012 375ML ($21.95) $18 special
Wine Enthusiast 92 points “This generous and opulent wine is full and ripe, with well integrated fruit. It offers spice and layers of rich honey and is ready to drink.”
Germany
Like water in a hot pan, as the saying goes, most of the 2017 Willi Schaefer Rieslings sold out when we first offered them. The vintage was short and the wines beloved. Fortunately, we were able to secure more of this Kabinett, which will likely be the last of the vintage!
Weingut Willi Schaefer Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett, Mosel 2017 750ML ($39.95) $33 special
Stuart Pigott – JamesSuckling.com 95 points “Amazingly concentrated for a Kabinett, but it is also cool and finely nuanced with an entire spectrum of fruit and herbal notes. Hints of smoke and flint, too. The crystalline clarity of the long finish is literally breathtaking. Drink or hold.”
Mosel Fine Wines 94 points “The 2017er Graacher Himmelreich Kabinett proves still somewhat backward and only gradually reveals shy notes of smoke, white flowers, anise, yellow peach and grapefruit, all wrapped into a hint of herbs. The wine is quite intense yet playful on the palate as beautifully zesty and ripe acidity mingles with juicy yellow fruits. Despite the intensity, this Kabinett remains superbly light and develops some stunningly complex mineral and zesty fruity flavors in the finish. This is a brilliant Kabinett in the making. 2025-2037.”
Von Winning Estate Riesling, Pfalz 2017 750ML ($21.95) $16 special
Terry Theise “[+] It’s a corn bisque in the form of wine. The 9 g.l of RS does nothing but good—too good, actually, but ’17 does like handing out upgrades especially in the Pfalz; it has some of the peachiness of Reiterpfad and the greeny twang of Paradiesgarten; rich, grainy and lush, and honestly kind of absurdly too good. Just don’t hate on me when the 2018 returns us to earth-orbit.”
Kruger-Rumpf Abtei Riesling Trocken, Nahe 2017 750ML ($34.95) $28 special
Terry Theise “[+] I introduced my new book to a group of sales and marketing people who work for the publisher, and we thought we’d taste a few wines. But what wines? It wasn’t set up as a “wine seminar;” the wines were supposed to lubricate a meeting to talk about my stunning new book. But I picked the 2016 of this wine to show, however “esoteric” it may have seemed, because A) it was delicious and B) it had a story to tell, and the book is about all those stories, that live in every authentic wine. In this case it’s the story of an idealistic project for Georg Rumpf, obtaining and working a steep and difficult vineyard directly overlooking the Rhine on a vein of phyllite soil unique to the region, and seldom found anywhere. (The famous Rauenthaler Baiken is most noted for this soil.) The ’16 blossomed in the bottle (and wowed the tasters at the publisher) but the ’17 is a step ahead, darker and doughier than the ’16, with a high-pitched salty shimmer atop the savor of the complicated terroir. Seriously long, it made me want to live twenty more years to taste future vintages and see what this ground really has to tell us.”
The average price is $34
Weingut Donnhoff Norheimer Dellchen Riesling Grosses Gewachs, Nahe 2017 750ML ($99.95) $89 special#3 Wine of the Year – James Suckling Top 100 in 2018
Stuart Pigott – JamesSuckling.com 100 points “An enormous spectrum of fruit aromas, from peaches through grapefruit to wild strawberries and pineapple. However, that doesn’t prepare you for the mind-blowing concentration and brilliance on the palate. Extremely filigree finish, in spite of the profound minerality. From organically grown grapes. Fair’n Green certification. Drink or hold. Limited production.”
Mosel Fine Wines 95 points “The 2017er Norheimer Dellchen GG exhibits a superbly aromatic and fruit-driven nose of pineapple, grapefruit, apple, grape juice and lime, all wrapped into smoke and anise. The nose gains even in finesse and presence with further airing. The wine has great presence and focus on the palate, w here spices and delicately herbal notes give a great refreshing side to this playful dry Riesling. The finish is pure, gorgeously long and driven by lime. This is a classic in the making. 2025-2042.”
The average price nationally is $94
Stuart Pigott – JamesSuckling.com 95 points “This might have happened by accident, due to the high level of ripeness that resulted from the frost damage and very low yield, but it works really well. Ripe citrus and peach aromas, but there’s great freshness and very lively acidity that animates the medium-full body and lifts the long finish. From organically grown grapes. Fair’n Green certification. Drink or hold.”
Wine Spectator 93 points “Multilayered, featuring well-sculpted and concentrated flavors of baked apple, gooseberry, roasted pineapple and vanilla bean. Acidity cuts through, delivering freshness midpalate and presenting ripe melon and quinine notes on the finish. Best from 2022 through 2030.”
Mosel Fine Wines 93 points “The 2017er Bad Kreuznacher Krötenpfuhl GG delivers a spicy and minty nose of ripe fruits including pear, apple, prune and grapefruit. But it is on the palate that this wine really shines, combining energy and finesse with beautifully f lowery and grapefruit driven elements. A great salty side adds depth to the fully dry and superbly mineral after-taste. This is a great dry Riesling in the making. 2025-2037.”
The next best price is $64.38
Stuart Pigott – JamesSuckling.com 98 points “A star is born! Stunning white-peach and herbal nose, then a sensational combination of ripeness and freshness that whips this forward like a jockey driving a racehorse towards the winning post. From organically grown grapes. Fair’n Green certification. This has enormous aging potential. Drink or hold.”Weingut Donnhoff Roxheimer Hollenpfad Riesling Trocken, Nahe 2017 750ML ($44.95) $33 special
Stuart Pigott – JamesSuckling.com 94 points “This is no top GG for its weight or power, but it’s got enormous, herbal intensity and super minerally acidity that keeps pumping out the flavors at the very fresh finish. From organically grown grapes. Fair’n Green certification. Drink or hold.”
The next best price is $37.99
Spain
(Bodegas Gerardo Mendez) Do Ferreiro Albarino, Rias Baixas 2016 750ML ($29.95) $26 special
Wine Advocate 92 points “The Méndez family consider 2016 a vintage with some similarities with 2011. I tasted their regular 2016 Albariño, which is produced from a mix of grapes from the 164 plots of vines they work, adding diversity of soils, mostly granite and sand but also red slate, and expositions in the villages of Meaño, Adina, Sisán, Castelo and Leiro. The grapes were picked in five days, starting on September 17th. All wines fermented with a “pied de cuve” from the Cepas Vellas, which fermented the juice from the destemmed grapes. The wine is kept with fine lees for a period of time that can range between four and up to 11 months. It has a fresh and balanced nose, with notes of good freshness—quite striking for a warmish year—with citrus notes intermixed with hints of white flowers and fruit. It’s a more powerful year, with 13.5% alcohol, but has great acidity and freshness. The palate is focused and delineated, with great purity and very tasty flavors. It has great mid-palate and concentration. A surprise. It’s one of the finest young Do Ferreiros I remember. This should evolve nicely in bottle. 85,000 bottles produced and bottled in ten different lots. I tasted a bottle from May 2017; they now have all the bottling dates on the labels.”
Vina Mein Blanco, Ribeiro 2016 750ML ($27.95) $21.90 special
Luis Gutierrez-Wine Advocate 91+ points “I tasted the 2016 Viña Mein, which is from different vineyards in the Avia Valley, mostly Treixadura, Godello and small percentages of the other white varieties. This fermented with indigenous yeasts, and the vineyards have been stripped of chemicals and herbicides, each plot fermented separately. There are some notes of white fruit, and it feels quite primary and undeveloped, with balsamic aromas (bay leaf, fennel and aniseed) and something lanolin-like that I associate with the baby fat of such a young white. The tropical aromas from yesteryear have disappeared; it’s a lot more serious with a touch of moss, river stones, more austere. The palate is medium-bodied with still some white fruit flavors and balanced acidity but with the texture and nerve provided by the granite soils. This is the finest regular Viña Mein I remember tasting ever. 72,000 bottles were produced in 2016.”
Staff Pick
This is a beautifully aromatic blend of indigenous white varieties from GOTA Winery in the Dao region of Portugal. Bright and fresh, use this at table as you would an Alsatian blend (edelzwicker) or a light-bodied dry Riesling. Its floral notes dominate with a subtle touch of white peach and sea salt underneath. The blend is 50% Encruzado, a white grape famous for its complexity that imparts body, texture and stone fruit aromas. This is a great bargain that just arrived and is only $14/bottle.Gota Wines Prunus Branco, Dao, Portugal 2017 750ML ($19.95) $14 special
Wine Advocate 89 points “The 2014 Contraste Tinto is mostly a field blend from 40-year-old vines, with some separated grapes, aged for 18 months in French oak (third and fourth use). Over the years, this second label has become increasingly interesting on its own. This is a rather respectable performance at this price level in a very shaky vintage. It is actually impressive in structure, showing fine grip on the finish and a bright feel. The mid-palate has respectable depth, too. What it seems to lack, at least now, is the typical flavor and vivid fruit that the bottling often has. Perhaps it will open more. I doubt it will ever be the best of the brand, but you can’t really go wrong at this price for a serious house pour. It will be a fine food wine.”
The next best price is $16.99
Trending Wines of the Weekend
Commanderie de la Bargemone Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence Rose, Provence 2017 750ML ($17.95) $11.90 February Sale Special
Case-12 Commanderie de la Bargemone Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence Rose, Provence 2017 750ML ($199.95) $119 February Sale Special
Jeb Dunnuck 91 points “Like the white, the 2017 Coteaux d’Aix en Provence Rosé (30% Grenache, 28% Syrah, 23% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cinsault, and the rest Rolle, Carignan, and Counoise) has a beautiful saltiness that makes your mouth water. White cherries, strawberries, and spice notes all flow to a medium-bodied rosé that has terrific acidity, plenty of fruit and a clean, dry finish.”
Wine Enthusiast 91 points “Editor’s Choice. This ancient estate, founded in the Middle Ages by the Knights Templar, has produced an exemplary rosé. It has lightness and poise as well as great fruitiness, acidity and a crisp, zesty texture. Perfumed and with red-currant and strawberry flavors, the wine is ready to drink.”
Josh Raynolds 90 points “Light, vivid orange. Clean, focused and minerally on the nose, displaying fresh citrus and pit fruit scents and a hint of candied lavender. Sappy and precise in style, offering bitter cherry and redcurrant flavors and a spicy jolt on the back half. Clings very nicely on the finish, leaving floral and orange pith notes behind.”
The next best price is $13.99
The average price is $16
Domaine de L’Edre Cotes du Roussillon Villages 2013 750ML ($49.95) $38 specialWine Advocate 95 points “One of the wines of the vintage is the 2013 Cotes du Roussillon Villages Domaine de l’Edre. While this cuvee had a rustic edge in the past, today it’s incredibly polished and pure, with brilliant aromatics of cassis, black raspberries, licorice, crushed flowers and chalky minerality. Medium to full-bodied, ripe, yet elegant and balanced, it’s a classic Roussillon that can be enjoyed today or cellared for a decade.”
The next best price is $47.99
Domaine Vocoret et Fils Les Forets, Chablis Premier Cru 2016 750ML ($31.95) $24 special
Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Tuscany 2012 750ML ($89.95) Was $59, Now $49 February Sale Special
Wine Advocate 95+ points “Il Poggione is a Brunello superstar and a vintage like this reveals every reason why that affirmation is true. From the second the 2012 Brunello di Montalcino pours into the glass, you know you are in for something special. The wine is darkly saturated and rich in appearance. Absent are those slightly amber or browning hues you often get with Sangiovese in a hot vintage. Nor does the wine show flat or tired characteristics. Instead, the quality of fruit is vibrant and rich. This is a healthy, generous and exuberant Brunello with dark density and succulent fruit flavors that are followed by integrated spice and tobacco. The balance is impressive and one thing you get here is fresh acidity. This is not to be underestimated, because the acidity quota in the 2012 vintage across the appellation is not as high or evident as usual. This is one of the year’s best Brunellos.”
Ian D’Agata – Vinous 93+ points “Good full red. Medicinal red cherry, raspberry, sweet spices and mint on the fresh, precise nose. Bright and sweet, with a penetrating, austere quality to its flavors of red fruits, minerals and medicinal herbs. Harmonious acidity nicely frames the pure, long, youthfully tight finish. Lovely young Brunello that will repay cellaring.”
The next best price is $54.94
The average price is $79
“Occhipinti’s wine occupies a special place in my heart. I am always filled with joy and expectation when I drink them. They are not blockbusters, but rather soulful, playful and most of all truthful wines that elicit a sense of seriousness without an over thinking drama about them. There is a feeling of peace and pleasure in them I find wonderfully compelling.” –Kerry Winslow, Grapelive
Azienda Agricola Arianna Occhipinti SP68 Sicilia Rosso IGT, Sicily 2017 750ML ($27.95) $24 pre-arrival special
Grapelive 93 points “There is always great expectations when I get the latest Occhipinti, and this new SP68 Rosso does not disappoint. It has all the seductive earthy qualities and beautiful fruit expression that Arianna is famous for: it is a pure and charming effort. The hard working and humble Arianna Occhipinti, who made her first (home) vintage at the age of 21, is the epitome of grit and determination. Her success is or was almost unimaginable in the region of her birth and gives her an almost mystical aura. Her wines are some of the most sought after in the natural and organic wine world…That said, her wines are not just natural wines nor is their appeal for a limited group; they are fresh, energetic and made with passion and down to earth charm that has won (her) fans from almost every corner of the greater wine world…The Occhipinti SP68, an IGT not a DOC, is labeled Terre Siciliane and is a cuvee of 70% Frappato and 30% Nero d’Avola that is grown on the red sand and chalk driven soils over, what Arianna calls, sub Apennine limestone rock. The vines used are at least 15 years old and densely planted and the grapes are all organic, as you’d expect, and the winemaking is careful, pragmatic, precise and minimalist without any chemical intervention in the vineyard or in the cellar… all to preserve purity, rawness and translucent flavors. The pale blue/crimson hued 2017 is fresh, showing a hint of reduction and earthy tones at first before opening up to its pretty fruit and spice showing its core Frappato driven character with sweet strawberry, plum, cranberry and unique lingonberry note as well as wild herbs, basil, pepper, anise, saline and brandied cherries. The mouth feel is smooth and easy, its medium weight (like Pinot Noir) is both refreshing and substantial giving a sense of completeness, complex and sensual charm in a lighter framed and racy wine. Air just opens the bouquet further with florals and mineral sensations. While less sharp than Gamay, it is stylistically similar and can be enjoyed with a slight chill and it will, like Pinot go with lots of cuisine options. Enjoy this new SP68 over the next 2 to 3 years. It’s vivid, easy and lovely. Occhipinti is a star, and her wines a reflection of her place and person, it is hard not to, after sipping her wine, book a flight to Sicily, especially this SP68. This new release is a gateway view to the vintage, which looks to be an impressive one for this part of the island, and I look forward to tasting her other bottlings.”
Old-Old-School Price
Casarena makes wine from the Lujan de Cuyo section of Mendoza—a section relatively unexplored in the modern wine industry, but possessing a wealth of old vines and interesting vineyards. The wine we’re highlighting today, from Owen’s Vineyard, is made from a block of 80+ year old, pergola trained Cabernet. That vineyard, combined with rigorous sorting and extended maceration, creates a Cab of high quality and obscene value. This is one to stock up on, and with the case special bringing it under $24 a bottle, you can afford to.
Arriving February 21st:
Casarena Owen’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Agrelo, Argentina 2015 750ML ($31.95) $26 pre-arrival special
Case-12 Casarena Owen’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Agrelo, Argentina 2015 750ML ($359.95) $279 pre-arrival special (that’s only $23.25/bottle!)
Wine Advocate 94 points “Tasted side by side with the 2014, the 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Owen’s Vineyard feels a lot fresher. This is an old, balanced, traditional vineyard that yields wines with very good depth and natural balance. There is perfect ripeness here and a notable absence of those green pepper aromas that often mask the personality of many Cabernets. These old vines yield very concentrated juice and it shows in the tannins and acidity, which show in perfect harmony. 30,000 bottles produced.”
The average price nationally is $27
Let me begin with a short digression about Cornas. When I first read Kermit Lynch’s Adventures on the Wine Route, the section that stuck most with me was the heartbreaking story of the lost vines of Cornas. As winemakers increasingly elected to seek their fortunes elsewhere rather than work the rustic and difficult slope of Cornas or chose to farm on the easier valley floor, weeds, trees and eventually houses took over the terraced vineyards. Vineyards were abandoned as modernity took root, and something was lost.
What does this have to do with the neighboring appellation of Cote Rotie? Well, such a loss is not limited to Cornas alone. The abandonment of backbreaking work in difficult terrains happens elsewhere, too, including in Cote Rotie.
Yet, against all logic and practicality, it seems, some brave souls are not only continuing the work in their families’ vineyards, these hardy few are even seeking out abandoned vineyards to reclaim the former glory of these forgotten times. Crazy? Illogical? Romantic? Perhaps. But far be it from me to argue with the results.
If you’re unfamiliar with Domaine Garon, know that the family goes back hundreds of years in and around Ampuis. The domaine as we know it was started in the early 80’s, as they began to reclaim old, abandoned vineyards in Cote Rotie. The replanted vineyards were farmed carefully and sustainably, and for years the fruit was sold to negociants. Once the restored vineyards were old enough, the family started bottling the “Les Triotes.” Various higher-tier cuvees followed as the years progressed.
These are wines that appeal to the head, the heart and some instinctive sense of nostalgia. The quality of the fruit is evident from first sip—there’s a power and complexity to the wines that only comes from premier sites farmed by a master. The wines are mostly destemmed, with some, but not too much new oak and as a result these can be delicious and polished when young. With age, they turn into some of the greatest wines of Cote Rotie. These beauties arrive late this month and belong in any collector’s cellar.
Arriving in Late February:
Domaine Garon Condrieu La Vieille Maison, Rhone 2017 750ML ($59.95) $49 pre-arrival special
Josh Raynolds-Vinous 88-90 points “Lurid violet. Aromas of fresh, spice-accented black and blue fruits and licorice are given a spicy edge by a peppery flourish. Silky and appealingly sweet, offering juicy blueberry and cassis flavors that firm up steadily on the back half. Finishes on a subtly tannic note, featuring lingering blue fruit and pepper notes.”
Domaine Garon Cote Rotie Les Triotes, Rhone 2016 1.5L ($149.95) $119 pre-arrival special
Josh Raynolds-Vinous 92 points “(40% new oak) Opaque ruby. Smoky, mineral-accented cherry and blueberry scents are complicated by hints of vanilla, Indian spices and licorice. Supple and broad on the palate, offering pliant blackberry and bitter cherry flavors that become sweeter as the wine opens up. A sexy floral pastille note emerges on the clinging finish, which shows excellent clarity and gentle, slow-building tannins.”
Jeb Dunnuck 91-93 points “From a mix of the La Triotes, Mollard, Combard, and Lancement lieux-dits, the 2016 Côte Rôtie Les Triotes is charming and elegant, with lots of black raspberries, vanilla oak, candied flowers and hints of meatiness. Medium to full-bodied, elegant and silky on the palate, it’s going to drink nicely right out of the gate, yet should evolve gracefully on its balance.”
Wine Advocate 90-92 points “The 2016 Cote Rotie Les Triotes is a blend of the domaine’s parcels in the Côte Blond that will spend 18 months in oak. It doesn’t have the excitement of the lieu-dit wines, but it’s solidly made, offering hints of cedar and vanilla over red berries. It’s medium to full-bodied, with a plush texture and a long, velvety finish.”
This is the only listing in the USA today for the magnum!
Josh Raynolds-Vinous 94 points “(50% new oak and 50% whole clusters) Vivid purple. Candied cherry, blueberry, Moroccan spices and olive paste on the exotically perfumed nose. Silky, seamless and sweet on the palate, offering juicy, spice-laced black and blue fruit, floral pastille and spicecake flavors that tighten up slowly on the back half. A smoky mineral note comes up on the strikingly long finish, which is framed by smooth, well-integrated tannins.”
Wine Advocate 92-94 points “The medium to full-bodied 2016 Cote Rotie Lancement is a stunning, seductive example of Cote Rotie, with fine herbal notes entwined around ripe blueberries and cracked spices. It’s creamy through the mid-palate and onto the plush finish, where it picks up hints of mocha and mint.”
Jeb Dunnuck 92-94 points “The most aromatic of the lineup is the 2016 Côte Rôtie Lancement, 100% Syrah that was 70% destemmed and will see 20 months in French oak. It’s loaded with notes of incense, dried violets, white pepper and assorted red and blue fruits. Medium to full-bodied, elegant and seamless on the palate, with building, fine tannin, it shines for its purity and length and is an impressive barrel sample.”
Josh Raynolds-Vinous 93 points “(40% new oak) Bright violet. Smoke- and mineral-accented aromas of dark berries, cherry pie and vanilla, along with a hint of olive in the background. Supple, broad and sweet on the palate, offering concentrated black raspberry, spicecake and violet pastille flavors and a snap of smoky minerality on the back half. Shows impressive energy and detail and reveals no rough edges. Finishes velvety and quite long, displaying excellent focus, even tannins and lingering spiciness.”
Jeb Dunnuck 92-94 points “The 2016 Côte Rôtie Les Rochins from Garon is a more modern styled beauty that has plenty of toasty oak and vanilla, yet also has ample classic black raspberry, spice and floral nuances. It’s ripe, medium-bodied, beautifully balanced and polished, and is loaded with charm. This cuvée is 100% Syrah and includes 20% stems.”
Josh Raynolds-Vinous 90-93 points “Brilliant purple. Ripe dark berries, olive and hints of camphor and cracked pepper on the fragrant nose. Sweet and energetic on the palate, offering juicy black and blue fruit flavors that pick up succulent floral and spice notes as the wine opens up. In a lively, precise style, showing very good clarity and length on a gently tannic finish that leaves olive paste and cassis notes behind.”
Drinking well now or cellar for another 5-10 years
Louis Latour Les Mitans, Volnay Premier Cru 2015 750ML ($79.95) Was $69, Now $59 February Sale Special
James Suckling 95 points “Incredible aromas of crushed strawberries, blueberries and flowers. Full body, full and linear tannins and a silky, caressing finish. Always compressed and refined. Drink in 2021.”
Now it’s even lower!
The next best price is $74.99!
Domaine de Cristia Chateauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes, Rhone 2015 750ML ($99.95) Was $79, Now $71.90 February Sale Special
Wine Spectator 97 points “This delivers a lush, enticing blast of cassis and raspberry and boysenberry preserve flavors, carried by a silky structure that lets the fruit play out at length, giving adequate time for black tea, singed apple wood, dried anise and fruitcake notes to fill in throughout. Dreamy. Grenache. Best from 2020 through 2040.”
The average price is $86
Tua Rita Redigaffi Toscana IGT, Tuscany 2015 750ML ($299.95) Was $228, Now $219 February Sale Special
James Suckling 100 points “This is an extraordinary merlot with such purity and focus. Flowers such as violets and hints of orange peel. It is full-bodied yet incredibly energetic and structured. The finish goes on for minutes. Seamless texture. Fresh yet dense. Contrasty. Best Redigaffi ever. Hard not to drink now but a wine for decades.”
Wine Spectator 95 points “Lush and polished, featuring a cashmere texture caressing vanilla, chocolate, black cherry and plum flavors. Well-balanced, with a persistent finish. The harmony hides a solid structure. Decant now. Merlot. Best from 2020 through 2032.”
The average price is $258
Thank you for reading!