In Today’s Newsletter:
Featured New Arrival: 2016 Clos de Tart
Buzz-Worthy Champagne Offers:
Dom & Veuve
Top Toasting Picks
New Week – New Year – New Arrivals
Trending Case Deals
VinopolPick Year End Review: Case Deals
A Pair of Perrins
New Reviews:
Scott Paul & Nikolaihof
Featured New Arrival
2016 Clos de Tart
A Legend in the Making
Domaine du Clos de Tart ‘Clos de Tart’ Grand Cru Monopole, Cote de Nuits 2016 750ML ($699.95) $519 special, 11 bottles available
Domaine du Clos de Tart ‘Clos de Tart’ Grand Cru Monopole, Cote de Nuits 2016 1.5L ($1499.95) $1099 special, 2 magnums available
Neal Martin-Wine Advocate 97-99 points “The 2016 Clos de Tart Grand Cru was assessed from a blend of all the component parts (except the young vines) that I previously tasted separately, as I have done over the last decade. The final blend will be 80% new oak, whereas my sample contained 100%, although this was discrete and enmeshed with the fruit. It has a fascinating bouquet, much more nuanced than those from a decade ago, dark fruit, a little earthier, with the stem addition lending it more freshness and even, dare I say, slightly green—and I mean that in a very positive sense. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp acidity, a core of slightly candied black cherry and blackcurrant fruit framed by quite “strict” tannin and a fresh, marine-influenced, brine-tinged finish that lingers long in the mouth. There is a sense of harmony and completeness here that, even over 20 years tasting at this address, I have rarely encountered. You can just feel the frisson in this wine. One of the finest wines from the Côte d’Or in 2016. It’s that simple.”
The average price for the 750ml is $608
The next best price for the magnum is $1,219
Buzz-Worthy Champagne Offers
Arriving Today, December 31st!
Dom Perignon Brut, Champagne 2009 750ML ($199.95) $149 special
Case-3 Dom Perignon Brut, Champagne 2009 750ML ($499.95) $399 special (that’s only $133/bottle!)
Case-6 Dom Perignon Brut, Champagne 2009 750ML ($999.95) $769 pre-arrival special (that’s only $128.17/bottle—the lowest listed price in the country!)
Antonio Galloni 97 points “The 2006 Dom Pérignon is a beautifully balanced, harmonious Dom Pérignon that strikes an incredibly appealing stylistic middle ground. Rich, voluptuous and creamy, the 2006 shows off fabulous intensity in a style that brings together the ripeness of 2002 with the greater sense of verve and overall freshness that is such a signature of the 2004. Bass notes and a feeling of phenolic grip on the finish recall the 2003, as the Pinot Noir is particularly expressive today. After an irregular summer that saw elevated temperatures in July followed by cooler, damp conditions in August, more favorable weather returned in September, pushing maturation ahead and leading to a long, protracted harvest. The 2006 falls into the family of riper, more voluptuous Dom Pérignons, but without veering into the level of opulence seen in vintages such as 2002.”
Wine Advocate 96 points “The 2006 Dom Pérignon comes from a very rich vintage with an early ripeness that brought a lot of aromatic maturity. The white-golden prestige cuvée contains a bit more Chardonnay than Pinot Noir and opens with a deep and seductive, pretty accessible nose with intense yet fresh fruit aromas of pineapples, with peaches and tangerines. Lively and elegant on the palate, this is a full-bodied, unusually aromatic and fruity DP with a long and tension-filled expression.”
Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Demi-Sec, Champagne NV 750ML ($69.95) $39 special
Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Demi-Sec, Champagne NV 375ML ($37.95) $21.90 special
Winery note “Veuve Clicquot Demi-Sec pays homage to the taste of the 19th century. The higher presence of Chardonnay enhances its sweetness and silkiness. It is best served in a carafe, allowing the flavors to fully expand and develop. After additional cellaring (two to three years, or even more in the right conditions), Demi Sec develops even richer notes of praline or toasts. It is then ideal with caramel or praline based desserts: Paris-Brest, tarte Tatin, pears with caramel, etc…”
The average price for the 750ml is $60
Top Toasting Picks
“The freshness, finesse, and brightness of Brut Premier make it the perfect wine for festive occasions. Its structured texture, richness, and length are distinctly winey. It is a full, complex wine that is both rich and powerful, whilst remaining a great classic.” -Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon, Cellar Master
Louis Roederer Brut Premier, Champagne NV 750ML ($59.95) $41.90 special
Wine Spectator 92 points “An elegant Champagne in an aperitif style, with flavors of crushed blackberry, biscuit, spring blossom and Meyer lemon zest riding the finely detailed bead, underscored by a streak of salinity that emerges on the fresh finish. Drink now through 2022.”
2002 was an excellent vintage. This sumptuous wine, from an under-the-radar Grande Marque, is all about texture and richness.
De Venoge Brut, Champagne 2002 750ML ($79.95) $59 special
Wine Spectator 93 points “A core of mineral-accented smoke, spice and honey notes is wrapped with flavors of glazed apricot, lemon preserves and candied ginger in this vibrant and well-balanced version. Creamy, with a lasting finish. Drink now through 2025. 3,000 cases made.”
“2004 is clearly superior to the consistently underwhelming 2002” –Antonio Galloni
“There’s a controlled power to this poised, vinous, linear 2004… It has a luminous freshness and good density” -Decanter
“There is marvelous precision here on both the nose and palate, not to mention a sense of harmony and grace” –John Gilman, A View from the Cellar
“The poise is unquestionable” –James Suckling
“absolutely mesmerizing”
Krug Vintage Brut, Champagne 2004 750ML ($299.95) $248 special
Krug Vintage Brut Gift Box Packaged, Champagne 2004 750ML ($299.95) $259 special
Antonio Galloni 97+ points “Krug’s 2004 Vintage is absolutely mesmerizing. Layers of bright, chiseled fruit open up effortlessly as the wine fleshes out with time in the glass. Persistent and beautifully focused, with a translucent sense of energy, the 2004 captures all the best qualities of the year. Moreover, the 2004 is clearly superior to the consistently underwhelming 2002 and the best Krug Vintage since 1996. Readers who can find it should not hesitate, as it is a magical bottle.”
Wine Advocate 97 points “Combining subtleness with complexity, the coolish Krug 2004 Brut opens with a highly elegant, fascinatingly clear, bright and refreshing bouquet of ripe (apple) fruits. Dense and round, with a delicate mineral soul, the pure but perfectly balanced 2004 reveals great finesse and weightless elegance with a long and round finish. This is a gorgeous Krug vintage that is 14 years old but still on the rise. Tasted from ID 316034 in New York in November 2018.”-SR
Decanter 97 points “This is the current and latest vintage release from Krug, and is a fitting successor to 2002, though it’s very different in style – unusually, the blend contains more Chardonnay than Pinot Noir. Despite this, it is hallmark Krug with its oxidative profile. It has a luminous freshness and good density without heaviness. There’s a controlled power to this poised, vinous, linear 2004, displaying candied fruits, minerals, gingerbread, white chocolate, caramel and marzipan. This has a long, dry autolytic finish, great balance and lovely bead. Disgorged just after the next, and very different, vintage we tasted, the Krug 2003. Drinking Window 2017-2037.”
New Week – New Year – New Arrivals
California
While Newton Vineyard is best known for their higher end “unfiltered” bottlings, their red label wines provide exceptional value for under $20. Now those prices are even lower—we’re offering a deal that’s too good to pass up. If you drink California Chardonnay or Cab, these are going to become your new house wines, at least until we run out (Only ten cases of each are available).
Newton Vineyard ‘Skyside-Red Label’ Chardonnay, California 2017 750ML ($21.95) $21.95) $14 special
Case-12 Newton Vineyard ‘Skyside-Red Label’ Chardonnay, California 2017 750ML ($249.95) $149 special (that’s only $12.42/bottle!)
The average price is $22
Newton Vineyard ‘Skyside-Red Label’ Claret, North Coast 2016 750ML ($24.95) $16 special
Case-12 Newton Vineyard ‘Skyside-Red Label’ Claret, North Coast 2016 750ML ($299.95) $169 special (that’s only $14.08/bottle—the lowest listed price in the USA today!)
The average price nationally is $20
L. Aubry Premier Cru Brut, Champagne NV 750ML ($44.95) $36 special
Disgorged May 2018
Antonio Galloni 89 points “The NV Brut is a very pretty, ethereal wine from the Aubry brothers. Silky, perfumed and open-knit, the Brut will drink well with minimal cellaring. Orchard fruit, lemon confit and expressive floral notes are nicely delineated. In this release, the Brut feels a bit on the sweet side. That is a relatively small critique as this level, however. This release equal parts 2015 and perpetual reserve. Dosage is grams per liter.” [Review is for March 2018 disgorgement]
Terry Theise note “Meunier expresses here as barley, rusks, crackers, and so the wine tastes rusky, coppery-saline, iodé, mineral and appetizing. It’s beautifully expressive of a corner of Champagne and tastes as though it were fined with sel gris. This edition is a 2015-base with 50% perpetual reserve. No grassiness! 40% Meunier, 25% CH, 30% PN and 5% “other. Deg early 2018—as were all the wines tasted – , dosage a little less than usual. It’s a frisky version of this, with lots of fruit and salt and quite forthcoming even so freshly disgorged. It’s almost suave. It’s less briny than usual, less brassy, more “fine.” Less Malpeque and more Fanny Bay.”
“confounding in the best possible way”
Mouzon-Leroux L’Atavique Grand Cru Brut, Champagne NV 750ML ($79.95) $49 special
Grapelive 94 points “This is an exciting new-to-me grower producer that does a biodynamic Extra Brut from estate vines. [It’s a blend of] 55% Pinot Noir and 45% Chardonnay from Verzy, and it’s a thrilling and dry style Grand Cru bubbly. Interestingly it is from mostly 2012 vintage, about 65%, with the rest a blend of leesy reserve wine from 2009 to 2011 with very low dosage, hence the Extra Brut. It was native yeast or natural fermented with the lots going through full Malo, so that very little sulfur had to be used. This Champagne is extremely brisk and vividly vibrant, but with complex layers and ever expanding depth on the palate. It has zingy citrus, orange blossom, apple, white cherry, fig and hazelnut leading the way with a steely core and lemon zest along with wet stones, before opening to brioche, a hint of smoke, chalky spice and quince. The mousse is remarkably fine and caressing, allowing lovely texture and mouth feel in such a taut Champagne. It’s not a crowd pleaser really, but a jewel for the enthusiast. The Mouzon-Leroux Cuvee l’Atavique is a special Champagne for grower fizz fans.”
The average price is $64
Chateau Doisy-Vedrines, Sauternes 2011 750ML ($69.95) $59 special
Chateau Doisy-Vedrines, Sauternes 2011 375ML ($39.95) $29 special
Neal Martin-Wine Advocate 95 points “Tasted blind at the Sauternes 2011 horizontal tasting. The Château Doisy-Védrines 2011 has a very fragrant, almost floral bouquet with pure honey, quince and yellow flower scents that soar from the glass and embrace you like your favourite aunt. The palate is medium-bodied with a viscous texture and superb acidity that really set this Sauternes alight: real tension and a sense of energy here. It just “flows” toward a vibrant, honeyed finish that has only just begun to “motor.” This surpasses its showing from barrel and constitutes a magnificent effort from Olivier Castèja and his team.”
Wine Spectator 95 points “Pure, with piercing persimmon, pineapple, white peach and quince flavors. Gorgeous floral notes of honeysuckle and orange blossom form the backdrop, while a heather accent caresses the finish. Overwhelmingly pure in the end, with a finish that sails on and on. Best from 2016 through 2035.”
James Suckling 94 points “A white with peaches, honey and lemon-curd character. Caramel, too. Full body, medium-sweet with a fresh, clean finish. Lots of mineral undertones and lightly toasted oak. Needs five to six years to come together. Intensely sweet in the finish. Try in 2019.”
Domaine Matrot Perrieres, Meursault Premier Cru 2016 750ML ($149.95) $119 special
Stephen Tanzer–Vinous 91-94 points “(from a “full normal crop” from very old vines, according to Elsa Matrot): Reduced aromas of peach and pineapple enlivened by calcaire energy. Very concentrated, youthful and balanced, boasting a lovely mineral/acid spine that’s already in harmony with the wine’s dense, sweet fruit. Finishes firm and lightly phenolic but not bitter, with excellent saline, iodiney grip and terrific subtle, sappy length. Delivers a lovely combination of power and elegance.”
A wine to fall in love with…
Pierre-Marie Chermette Domaine du Vissoux Saint-Amour, Beaujolais 2017 750ML ($27.95) $24 special
Nick Stock-JamesSuckling.com 93 points “Rich aromas of poached strawberries and pastries, as well as pomegranate and blood oranges. Really fresh. The palate has a very plush and lively strawberry core. Raspberries, too. Juicy, sapid appeal. Drink now or hold.”
A standard-bearer delivers the goods.
Clos des Papes Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Rhone 2016 750ML ($149.95) $128 special
Joe Czerwinski-Wine Advocate 97+ points “The 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape is full-bodied but balanced, with plenty of richness and concentration but also a certain paradoxical lightness. It offers complex garrigue and anise notes, a blend of cherry and raspberry fruit, a silky texture and a long finish that shows no sign of the wine’s 15.8% alcohol. For technocrats, the wine’s pH is 3.7, which is sufficient acidity to maintain a fine sense of balance. This lovely wine should drink well for at least two decades. Together with the 2015 and the 2017, it will be a compelling trio of wines to follow over the years.”
Josh Raynolds-Vinous 95-97 points “Vivid ruby-red. Ripe, intensely perfumed raspberry, blackberry, cherry pit and pungent flowers on the highly expressive, mineral- and spice-tinged nose. Juicy and seamless in texture, offering palate-staining yet graceful red and blue fruit liqueur and floral pastille flavors and an exotic suggestion of candied fennel. Delivers flavor intensity without excess weight and shows no rough edges. Closes sweet, sappy and extremely long, with smooth, slow-building tannins framing lingering red fruit preserve and floral notes.”
Re-stocked!
#14 Wine of the Year – Wine Spectator Top 100 2017
Clos des Papes Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Rhone 2015 750ML ($139.95) $119 special
Wine Spectator 98 points “This has a drop-dead gorgeous core of cassis and raspberry pâte de fruit flavors that holds center stage but still allows notes of Lapsang souchong tea, anise, incense and shiso leaf to chime in. Very long, with a sublime feel through the mineral-tinged finish. So seductive already, but this will cruise in the cellar. Drink now through 2040.”
Wine Advocate 97 points “Bottled in May, the 2015 Chateauneuf du Pape is a floral, elegant, unbelievably complex wine. Roses and violets, cherries and stone fruit, cinnamon and allspice and more are carried across the full-bodied yet almost weightless palate, finishing in a swirl of silky tannins and lingering spice. Drink it over the next two decades.”
Josh Raynolds–Vinous 94-96 points “(raised in foudres) Deep ruby. Hugely aromatic red and dark berry, potpourri and floral scents are underscored by smoky minerality and an exotic suggestion of Asian spices. Sappy, focused and impressively deep yet lively, offering alluringly sweet raspberry, cherry compote and spicecake flavors and a refreshingly bitter touch of blood orange. Puts on weight and spreads out steadily with air, acquiring a succulent herb note that carries through the strikingly long, mineral-laced, gently tannic finish. This beauty is shaping up to be among the standouts of this extremely successful vintage.”
Easily one of the best values in wine under $20, drink now or cellar for a decade…
Domaine de la Pepiere Muscadet Sevre-et-Maine Sur Lie Clos des Briords, Loire 2017 750ML ($24.95) $19 special
Wine Enthusiast 90 points “From 60–70 years old, this wine boasts a rich, concentrated backdrop. Its spice and pepper flavors are integrated with the ripe fruitiness, while delicious acidity and a touch of almond grace the finish.”
Germany
Weingut Alfred Merkelbach Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Spatlese #7 Halbtrocken, Mosel 2016 750ML ($29.95) $24 special
David Schildknecht – Vinous 92 points “I harbor fond memories of halbtrocken Merkelbach Würzgartens long past, so perhaps you’ll think I was overly influenced simply by having once again seen those words on a bottle of their Riesling. But its contents certainly left me wishing that they would let this happen in their cellar more often. A classic Würzgarten nose of fresh strawberry and lime adds hints of more Erden-typical tarragon and sassafras. Subtly silken in feel, this finishes buoyant and lusciously long, with animating, bright primary juiciness and transparency to shimmering impingements of stones and mineral salts. Incidentally, it weighs in at a mere 10% alcohol, a reminder that the Merkelbachs pick for Spätlese at must weights that most of today’s top Mosel growers would deem appropriate for Kabinett. A prime example of what I call “hidden sweetness” – residual sugar playing a supportive and catalytic role while not engendering any overt sense of sweetness – this will perform brilliantly at table as well as in your cellar.”
The average price is $27
Markus Molitor Erdener Treppchen Riesling Spatlese Trocken (White Capsule), Mosel 2016 750ML ($34.95) $27 special
Wine Advocate 93 points “The 2016 Riesling Erdener Treppchen Spätlese (White Capsule) has a very clear and precise bouquet of ripe and concentrated yet fine and flinty Riesling expressions intermixed with yeasty notes from the long lees aging, which lasted until September 2017. On the palate this is a very elegant, lush and finessed Spätlese with crystalline acidity and beautiful Mosel elegance. The purity, finesse and terroir expression are really remarkable here. A great and promising Spätlese. Tasted March 2018.”
Markus Molitor Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spatlese Trocken (White Capsule), Mosel 2016 750ML ($34.95) $27 special
Wine Advocate 94 points “From deeper slate soils that deliver very aromatic fruit and crunchy slate aromas, the 2016 Riesling Graacher Domprobst Spätlese (White Capsule) is excitingly pure and smoky on the terribly fine and dark nose. This is intense, piquant and very complex on the palate but also beautifully fruity, lush and crystalline in its super fine and silky texture.The finish is pure, salty and perfectly interwoven with ripe and elegant fruit. This is a great Mosel wine from 2016, and it sells for 20 euros ex cellar. Tasted March 2018.”
David Schildknecht-Vinous 94 points “Here is another of those gorgeously heady, florally perfumed noses that seem to abound among Molitor 2016s. Lily, rowan and heliotrope garland ripe apple and pecan, themes perfectly suited to this wine’s subtly creamy, expansive yet alcoholically buoyant palate impression. And for all of that creamy, nutty richness, the billowingly sustained finish is a model of sheer refreshment as well as of transparency to crystalline and stony nuances.”
Alvaro Palacios’ “Descendientes J Palacios” project in Bierzo makes some of the most captivating wines in Spain at hard to believe prices. Rich yet elegant and bright, these are captivating wines at insane prices for their quality. The Petalos bottling, in particular, is an absolute bargain—there’s a very serious wine in that bottle with the under $20 price tag.
In Stock Now:
Descendientes de J. Palacios ‘Petalos’, Bierzo 2015 750ML ($21.95) $18 special
Case-12 Descendientes de J. Palacios ‘Petalos’, Bierzo 2015 750ML ($249.95) $189 special (that’s only $15.75/bottle!)
Wine Advocate 92+ points “The entry level 2015 Pétalos del Bierzo, their regional wine, in the new official category that will start working in the appellation from the 2017 vintage, a blend of many different vineyards planted with field blends, where the breakdown might come to some 5% white varieties (Valenciana/Doña Blanca, Godello and Palomino/Jerez) and around 1% other reds (Pan y Carne, Negrada and Gran Negro), all from vines ranging between 40 and 90 years of age on slopes (half of the grapes around the village of Corullón and the remainder in the rest of Bierzo). It’s a showy, approachable, aromatic and open version of Pétalos, and as I tasted it later on in the season, it felt more polished and round, with a lush texture. It’s extremely aromatic, in a way similar to the 2012. This is always one of the best values not only of Bierzo but for the whole of Spain. 310,000 bottles and 2,000 magnums produced.”
An earlier-drinker of the lineup, this Cru is all too often ignored for the more cult-y Rabaja, the more serious Ovello or the darker/denser Montestefano. But the Muncagota should not be ignored – it’s one of the best values that’s worthy of a lot of attention. And in 2013, it is beautiful, harmonious and captivatingly structured.
Produttori del Barbaresco Muncagota, Barbaresco Riserva DOCG 2013 750ML ($79.95) $59 special
Case-12 Produttori del Barbaresco Muncagota, Barbaresco Riserva 2013 750ML ($669.95) $599 special (that’s only $49.91/bottle!)
Antonio Galloni 94 points “Like most of the wines in this lineup, the 2013 Barbaresco Riserva Muncagota is quite potent. A rush of raspberry jam, wild flowers, white pepper and mint make a strong opening statement. Succulent and yet also structured, the Muncagota has so much to offer. It should be one of the first wines in this range to start opening up, although when that will happen exactly is hard to say.”
Wine Spectator 94 points “Powerful yet underlined by racy acidity, driving the black cherry, black currant and mineral flavors. Menthol and tobacco notes add depth, keeping this intense. All the components are here, yet this will need time to really sing. Best from 2024 through 2040.”
Any lover of Brunello—no, any lover of Italian wine—should have a case of Il Poggione’s Brunello in their cellar. The combination of classical proportions and attention grabbing power and complexity is extremely rare in a wine, especially at these sorts of prices. They are truly Great Brunello, along with names like Biondi-Santi, Soldera, Saliciutti, etc. except at half (or less) the price of its peer group.
In Stock Now:
“This is one of the year’s best Brunellos”
Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Tuscany 2012 750ML ($89.95) $55 special
Case-6 Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Tuscany 2012 750ML ($419.95) $299 special (that’s only $49.83/bottle!)
Wine Advocate 95+ points “Il Poggione is a Brunello superstar and a vintage like this reveals every reason why that affirmation is true. From the second the 2012 Brunello di Montalcino pours into the glass, you know you are in for something special. The wine is darkly saturated and rich in appearance. Absent are those slightly amber or browning hues you often get with Sangiovese in a hot vintage. Nor does the wine show flat or tired characteristics. Instead, the quality of fruit is vibrant and rich. This is a healthy, generous and exuberant Brunello with dark density and succulent fruit flavors that are followed by integrated spice and tobacco. The balance is impressive and one thing you get here is fresh acidity. This is not to be underestimated, because the acidity quota in the 2012 vintage across the appellation is not as high or evident as usual. This is one of the year’s best Brunellos.”
The average price nationally is $79
Our surprise hit from Chablis with a crunchy vein of minerality:
La Chablisienne Vaulorent, Chablis Premier Cru 2014 750ML ($39.95) $33 special
Case-6 La Chablisienne Vaulorent, Chablis Premier Cru 2014 750ML ($219.95) $179 special (that’s only $29.83/bottle!)
Decanter 95 points “An exuberant, complex nose packed full of exotic fruits, asparagus and elderflower with well integrated oak. The palate has a very strong fruity expression with an oily depth and harmony and very impressive length. All the pieces of the Chablis puzzle are in place here.”
Burghound 92 points “Outstanding. As is usually the case this is more elegant, particularly on the floral and white orchard fruit suffused nose that is nuanced by plenty of classic Chablis elements and in particular mineral reduction. There is also a bit more volume to the caressing, intense and voluminous flavors that drip with minerality on the refined but powerful finale where a discreet touch of wood arises. This offers ample development potential and should be lovely with time. Drink: 2021+”
Matello Pinot
The Last of the Label
Lovers of Willamette Pinot take note—the following is one of the best deals you’ll see on a bottle of wine from the Valley. Marcus Goodfellow’s labels have been mainstays at the shop for some time now—wines that we carry regardless of vintage, scores or overall hype. The wines are amongst the best in Oregon and consistently some of the most inspiring wines we taste. While he exclusively makes wine under the Goodfellow Family Cellars now, his original packaging all bore the “Matello” name. When you look at the Matello labels now, they seem a little campy in comparison and not a reflection of the Burgundy-influence winemaking and serious wines in the bottle. Perhaps that’s why he’s eager to move on and get rid of the last remaining stock of the Matello wines. Even if it’s not, we’re excited to offer you these great deals while they last. The 2014 shows plenty of Goodfellow style: lots of whole cluster and bright, fresh acidity with plenty of power and richness.
Snag a case on our December special for the ultimate deal!
Matello Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley 2014 750ML ($24.95) $18 special
Case-12 Matello Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley 2014 750ML ($219.95) $189 special (that’s only $15.75/bottle!)
VinopolNote: Lots of whole cluster to balance out the warmth and richness of the year. 2014 power and fruit marries with spice and structure to produce a beautifully integrated bottle of Pinot Noir.
A Pair of Perrins
Gigondas & Vinsobres
Perrin is a legendary family in the wine world. They’re best known for their stewardship of Chateau Beaucastel, that benchmark of Chateauneuf du Pape, but they also make wines from other properties in the area. Of particular note are the Clos Tourelles Gigondas and the Vinsobres Les Hautes de Julien. These are from more mountainous terroirs than Chateauneuf. Gigondas requires little in the way of further explication, but Vinsobres is a fascinating region, in the northern part of the southern Rhone, which is Syrah based and is like a hypothetical cross between Cornas and a Syrah from the south. These are great Rhone values with that stole the show with Jeb Dunnuck. Tuck away in your cellar or pop now for hedonistic pleasure.
Famille Perrin Gigondas Domaine du Clos des Tourelles, Rhone 2015 750ML ($59.95) $49 special
Jeb Dunnuck 97 points “The finest vintage to date, the 2015 Gigondas Le Clos des Tourelles comes from a tiny vineyard located just inside the village of Gigondas. Incorporating a touch of Syrah, this Grenache dominated beauty reveals a deep ruby/purple color as well as off the chart notes of black raspberries, black cherries, pepper, garrigue, and tons of that classic Gigondas spice. I wrote “Wow” more than once in my notes and this full-bodied 2015 has ultra-fine tannin, perfect balance, and a stacked mid-palate. Give bottles 2-3 years and drink over the following 15+ years.”
Famille Perrin Vinsobres Les Hauts de Julien, Rhone 2015 750ML ($49.95) $39 special
Jeb Dunnuck 95 points “The 2015 Vinsobres Les Hauts De Julien comes from the Vinsobres region, which is a cooler terroir located in the northern part of the southern Rhône. Based largely on very old vine Syrah blended with Grenache, it offers a vibrant purple color as well as a sensational bouquet of blueberries, cracked pepper, violets, lavender, and exotic spices. Incredibly textured, full-bodied, deep, and opulent, with awesome purity of fruit, it’s another sensational vintage for this cuvée that would pass undetected in a blind lineup of top Cornas. Drink it anytime over the coming decade.”
The average price is $44
New Review for Our Trendiest Willamette Valley Estate!
Scott Paul La Paulee Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley 2014 750ML ($39.95) $18 special, 29 bottles in stock now
Grapelive 90 points “Originally made for a special La Paulee celebration, this Scott Paul is now available at $18. [This] is less than half price through multiple outlets; the original winery price was $39. This Kelley Fox-made 2014 version is a steal with a generous and elegant focus and easy to love personality…The 2014 La Paulee is very silky and flows seamlessly across the medium bodied palate with loads of red cherry, plum and cranberry fruits, light spices, cola bean, subtle toasty oak and a nice streak of mineral, ripe tannin and sweet floral tones which is a rose petal array in the nose. The dark crimson and ruby hue is very pretty in the glass and this Pinot Noir never puts a foot wrong. It’s very lovely from start to finish and with lots of admirable quality in the glass. As the winery puts it, [La Paulee] is a bottling that was selection of superior lots from our blocks of Maresh and Nysa Vineyards in the Dundee Hills and Ribbon Ridge and Azana Vineyards on the Chehalem Mountains that was aged in all neutral French oak barrels. Still fresh and focused, it will drink very nicely for another 3 to 5 years with graceful ease, and at this price it is more than worth it. Stocking up is not a bad idea.”
Scott Paul Azana Pinot Noir, Chehalem Mountains 2013 750ML ($59.95) $24 special, only 36 bottles in stock now
Josh Raynolds 92 points “Brilliant red. Fresh red berries, cherry compote and a hint of blood orange on the highly perfumed nose and in the mouth. Juicy and lithe in character, with no rough edges; a suave floral pastille nuance emerges on the back half. Shows excellent clarity and spicy cut on the finish, which hangs on with strong, floral tenacity.”
Scott Paul Azana Pinot Noir, Chehalem Mountains 2014 750ML ($59.95) $24 special, only 36 bottles in stock now
Wine Spectator 92 points “Broad and spicy, open-textured and appealing, showing balletic balance and featuring black cherry, rose petal and white pepper character that glides into a long and inviting finish. Drink now through 2024. 141 cases made.”
The next best price is $33.24
Scott Paul The Long Run Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills 2011 750ML ($59.95) $33 special, only 23 bottles in stock now
Josh Raynolds 92 points “(12.9% alcohol; 20% new oak): Light, bright red. Sexy, high-pitched red berry and floral scents, with notes of star anise, underbrush and sassafras adding complexity. Offers intense raspberry and bitter cherry flavors, along with notes of rhubarb, candied flowers and orange zest. This lithe, focused, pure pinot finishes linear and very long, with echoing floral and spice notes. Pinot purists should definitely check this one out.”
Wine Enthusiast 92 points “($45) Previously labeled as Les Gourmandises, this is now The Long Run in honor of Scott Wright’s completing his first full-length marathon in 2011. It’s all Nysa vineyard fruit, graceful and delicate, scented with rose water and satin smooth. Cranberry and wild strawberry fruit accents lead into a mouthful of cherry soda, delicate but lingering.”
Scott Paul Maresh Vineyard Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills 2015 1.5L ($149.95) $99 special, only 9 magnums available
Wine Enthusiast 94 points “Editor’s Choice. This cuvée, sourced from Maresh vineyard old vines, was formerly called Audrey. This vintage, the vineyard gets its due. The old vines contribute both texture and mouthfeel, elevating the overall experience. A lush mix of raspberry, cherry and blackberries flavors unfolds on the palate. Underbrush and mushroom scents and accents emerge as it winds gracefully into the finish.”
Scott Paul Nysa Vineyard Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills 2015 750ML ($59.95) $24 special, 28 bottles in stock now
Wine Enthusiast 92 points “The famous vineyard is showing well here. Winemaker Ian Burch has a fine ability to provide a distinct focus for each of the winery’s single vineyard selections. This bottling is refined, with an intriguing mix of flavors, from grapefruit and Bing cherry, to chicken broth and milk chocolate. As odd as it sounds, it all knits together quite well.”
Scott Paul ‘Pre’ Pinot Noir, Dundee Hills 2012 750ML ($49.95) $39 special, only 27 bottles in stock now
Josh Raynolds 92 points “Brilliant ruby-red. Assertive red berry and incense aromas, along with suggestions of Asian spices, sassafras and minerals. Spicy, focused and racy on entry, then fleshier in the mid-palate, with vibrant raspberry and bitter cherry flavors gaining sweetness with air. Distinctly lithe for the vintage, with a whiplash of juicy red fruit defining the lively, persistent finish. This fruit was grown in the Nysa vineyard.”
Burghound 92 points “Outstanding. A beautifully layered and admirably pure nose is composed of plum, violets, spice and discreet sandalwood hints. There is more volume to the slightly bigger and richer medium-bodied flavors that also possess good verve on the dusty, compact and moderately firm finish. This is clearly built to age and it will need at least 4 to 5 years and reward 8 to 10. In a word, impressive.”
Scott Paul Quatre Journaux Pinot Noir, Chehalem Mountains 2012 750ML ($79.95) $49 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Josh Raynolds 93 points “Vivid ruby-red. Drop-dead gorgeous, highly perfumed aromas of red berry preserves, Asian spices, sassafras and smoky minerals, with an intense floral nuance. Sweet, penetrating and pure, offering nervy red fruit and rose pastille flavors complemented by deeper notes of mocha and licorice. Shows outstanding balance and clarity, with smooth tannins building slowly through a long spice- and mineral-inflected finish.”
Nikolaihof Vinothek
New Review!
You wouldn’t infer it from the bright neon labels, but Nikolaihof has been around for a while. In fact, it may very well be the oldest wine estate in Austria. Evidence has been traced back to 470 A.D. to remains of the monastery of St. Nikola that can be found within the walls of the estate, hence the winery’s name.
The Saahs family has owned Nikolaihof since 1894. Before them, monks tended the vines and made the wine. The monks’ ancestors acquired the buildings and vineyards after the collapse of the Roman Empire. And before the Romans, the Celts were making wine here along the Danube. Nikolaihof is considered the oldest wine estate in Austria, and their Im Weingebirge was the first vineyard to carry a name. Riesling and Grüner Veltliner of the highest order have kept this estate on the fine wine map. One of the first biodynamic wineries in the world, Nikolaihof still ages the wines in Austrian oak, in a cellar that’s 700 years-old, and has begun re-using an 18th-century wooden press.
Nikolaihof makes some of the most fascinating and compelling whites in the world, including these two beauties, which aged over a decade and a half in cask (unsulfured!) before being bottled. These are two masterpiece wines to buy and savor at a special occasion—the vinous equivalent of watching an Antonioni film. The 1997 is in stock now and the newly reviewed 2002 is arriving in January.
In Stock Now:
A hauntingly pure expression of Riesling from the master of Wachau!
Familie Saahs Nikolaihof Vinothek Riesling, Wachau, Austria 1997 750ML ($219.95) $149 special, 17 bottles in stock now
Wine Advocate 97 points “Aged for 17 years in a domestic 3,500-liter cask before it was bottled in August 2014, the 1997 Riesling Vinothek is the best part of the regular 1997 Riesling Smaragd Im Weingebirge, which was bottled and marketed in late 1998. The aged Vinothek version offers a fascinatingly clear, bright, deep and multi-layered nose with iodine and ripe as well as intense white-fleshed fruit aromas. Full-bodied, full of finesse and elegant, this dry, transparent and mineral Riesling develops a great intensity, complexity and power on the palate, but never leaves its silky road of purity, finesse and transparency. There is a lot of Spiel and tension here, but the most exciting characteristic trait is the intense and very mineral, almost endless finish. How youthful this wine is! And its further aging potential is still terrific. The wine reminds me of certain sherries, white Riojas and Jura wines, although it is not less oxidative. But it spent a long time in cask and has the freshness, complexity and thrilling taste of those. It’s a great, unique and stimulating wine that was bottled with 12.8% of alcohol, 6 grams of residual sugar and 6.5 grams of acidity.”
David Schildknecht–Vinous 97 points “This successor to the almost supernaturally ethereal and haunting 1995 also has to live up to the reputation of a vintage-of-the-half-century. It manages, though! The bouquet is unearthly in its complex amalgam of bittersweetly floral (iris, gentian, buddleia), pungently nutty, subtly smoky (black tea) and elusively mineral (sea breeze, wet stone, faint fusel oil) components. Considering the secondary development signaled on the nose, a surprising intensity of pure white peach, apple and grapefruit emerges sumptuously on the silky palate. The buoyant finish, more tightly clinging and less ethereal than that of the 1995, represents a long, harmoniously undulating interaction of liquid floral perfume, diverse minerality and succulent fresh fruits. I tasted this shortly before its mid-2014 bottling (a rare exception to the Nikolaihof rule against unveiling wines from cask) and did not review that note before tasting seven months later. My first spontaneous word each time was “unearthly.” And happily, my impressions that followed demonstrated that this wine’s amazing personality, including its aromas and textural allure, had made it to bottle scarcely altered. The source vineyard here, incidentally, is the Im Weingebirge whereas the 1995 was from Vom Stein.”
Arriving in January:
A unique monument of a wine.
Familie Saahs Nikolaihof Vinothek Riesling, Wachau 2002 750ML ($219.95) $179 pre-arrival special
Stephan Reinhardt – Wine Advocate 96 points “From the Im Weingebirge single vineyard, the 2002 Riesling Vinothek has been aged… for 16 years in a 6,000-liter oak cask. Bottled in July 2018, the brilliantly white-golden colored wine is fascinatingly clear and bright on the elegant and aromatic nose. Highly elegant and beautifully balanced on the palate, with some bitterness in the finish, this is a concentrated Riesling whose fine acidity is completely integrated. The finish is tight, intense, very complex and terribly long. The acidity is completely interwoven with the stony character, which gives the 2002 great elegance and finesse. Tasted at the Nikolaihof in Mautern/Wachau, September 2018.”
Terry Theise “[++]This as you know is a concept whereby a Smaragd wine is left in (large) cask for fifteen years or longer, without sulfur. (There’s a parallel program called “Steinriesler” made from lighter material, but I wasn’t persuaded by the current vintage.) This is the best since the ’95; solid, powerful, smoky; strong but not heavy, an old iron stove of Riesling. The roast is reposing fragrantly, and the stove still smolders….”
The next best price is $199.99
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