A Collectible-Quality Red at Value Pricing
Saint Cosme’s Exciting New Project
Trending Wines
Staff Pick: Loire Bargain
Collector’s Corner
Kapcsandy’s First Growth Napa Reds
Value Up and Down the Line
From the Most Important Importer of Spanish Wine
Fondreche – Pride of Ventoux
That’s an incredible savings compared to the big names of Abruzzo and a testament to the incredible work that Valle Reale is doing to vault themselves into the top tier of producers in their region. Located in a nature preserve, their young estate (founded 2000) has been making waves for over-delivering on the quality front. We have their 94 point Montepulciano arriving on Tuesday and this looks to be a (very) early contender for our wine of 2020. Stock up while we can get it.
Arriving Tuesday, January 7th
Valle Reale Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2018 750ML ($17.95) $14 special
Case-12 Valle Reale Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2018 750ML ($179.95) $149 special (that’s only $12.42/bottle—the lowest listed price in the USA today!)
Ian D’Agata – Vinous 94 points “Bright red. Red cherry and flowers on the perfumed nose; much more fragrant than the 2017 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. Then fresh and juicy, with bright red fruit repeating in the mouth. Finishes long and savory, showcasing notable purity. Outstanding cool-climate Montepulciano of noteworthy refinement. Very, very well done; I’m not sure readers fully realize just how hard it is to obtain a result of this level in a cold-weather environment such as that of Popoli. This success speaks loudly of the capability and talent of owner Leonardo Pinzolo and his Valle Reale technical team.”
Saint Cosme is probably our top selling producer, year in and out. We carry a variety of their wines, from their single vineyard, estate grown Gigondas to their excellent value negociant bottlings from the Northern Rhone. When we heard they had purchased a historic estate in Vinsobres, we had high hopes—and the wine lives up.
Chateau de Rouanne dates back to Roman times, with limestone and sandy marl soils planted to a massale selection of Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre. Vinsobres is pretty far north for the Southern Rhone and reminds us of where Gigondas was 10-15 years ago, both in terms of pricing and climate. In Saint Cosme’s hands, that’s a very, very good thing, as we think you’ll see.
Arriving Friday:
Chateau de Rouanne Vinsobres, Rhone 2018 750ML ($34.95) $28 pre-arrival special
Case-12 Chateau de Rouanne Vinsobres, Rhone 2018 750ML ($399.95) $299 pre-arrival special (that’s only $24.92/bottle—the lowest listed price in the USA today!)
Importer note “Château de Rouanne is a historic estate with a 12th century medieval castle, situated on a classified Roman site located in the southern Rhône Valley. The name of the estate comes from “Rugius”, which is said to be the name of the original Roman owner. The estate totals 177 acres (72 hectares), including 153 acres (62 hectares) of vines. Château de Rouanne was purchased by Louis Barruol, owner and winemaker of Château de Saint Cosme, in May of 2019. Barruol sees enormous potential in Château de Rouanne, having worked with the previous owners for years as a source for some of his négociant wines. ‘It reminds me a lot of Saint Cosme when I took it over in 1992. It’s an unknown sleeping beauty waiting for a vigneron to truly love it.’ The vineyard of Château de Rouanne is a unique one-block monopole, planted entirely with 50+ year old vines, which are a selection massale of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. The ancient terroir is comprised of limestone and sandy marl soils dating back to the Pliocene epoch. Barruol uses whole bunches during fermentation, as the stems absorb alcohol and help retain acidity and tannin. Indigenous yeasts are used to impart the character and the purity of the terroir into the wine. The wine is aged for 16 months in concrete vats and is bottled unfined and unfiltered in order to deliver a “straight to the ground” interpretation of this unique vineyard. Raspberry, violet, licorice, peony, black pepper and gingerbread. Greatly textured with prominent saltiness and length in the finish.”
Looking for other wines from Saint Cosme? Check out these highlights below or view the full list in our online store.
In Stock Now:
Chateau de Saint Cosme Gigondas, Rhone 2017 750ML ($49.95) $39 special
Case-12 Chateau de Saint Cosme Gigondas, Rhone 2017 750ML ($599.95) $419 special (that’s only $34.92/bottle!)
Wine Spectator 93 points “($60)This offers a mix of dark cherry, currant and blackberry compote flavors, scored liberally with singed alder, dried sage and warm earth accents through the finish. A flash of chestnut at the very end keeps this in the old-school camp. Solid for the vintage. Best from 2022 through 2035.—J.M.”
Jeb Dunnuck 93 points “The 2017 Gigondas is another terrific vintage for this cuvée, and it’s a quintessential expression of Saint Cosme. Ground herbs, graphite, gunpowder, pepper, black raspberries, and cassis all emerge from this full-bodied, ripe, polished Gigondas. With solid concentration, building yet ripe tannins, and a great finish, you’ll be thrilled to have a case in the cellar.”
Wine Advocate 92+ points “Loaded with notes of black olives and black cherries, the full-bodied 2017 Gigondas is rich and velvety in the mouth. I’m not sure it’s quite as good as the 2018, but it’s certainly no slouch, with a long, silky finish that picks up a hint of cocoa.”
Decanter 92 points “Whole-cluster fruit from limestone, marl and Miocene sand soils is fermented in concrete with indigenous yeasts. It’s then aged 70% in barrel, 20% new, with the remaining 30% in concrete. It has a very oaky aromatic profile at this early stage, but it’s joined by a lovely herbal aspect from the stems. Medium to full-bodied, the fruit has a vibrant freshness and the acidity is pretty marked, while the tannins are massy but ripe and harmonious. Long finish.”
The average listed price is $50
Wine Advocate 93 points “Sourced from three lieux-dits (including La Crau), Saint Cosme’s 2015 Chateauneuf du Pape is a blend of approximately 60% Grenache, 20-25% Mourvèdre and bits and pieces of other varieties. It’s full-bodied, rich and spicy, with hints of cumin, licorice, cinnamon and clove all swirling about on the long finish.”
Case-12 Saint Cosme Saint-Joseph, Rhone 2017 750ML ($419.95) $299 special (that’s only $24.92/bottle!)
Jeb Dunnuck 93 points “A step up, the 2017 Saint Joseph offers another level of class and purity. Beautiful blackberry, black raspberries, cured meats, and pepper notes give way to a medium to full-bodied Saint Joseph that has subtle oak, a seamless texture, and fine tannins. It’s going to benefit from 2-4 years of bottle age.”
Case-12 Saint Cosme Crozes-Hermitage, Rhone 2017 750ML ($359.95) $279 special (that’s only $23.25/bottle—the lowest listed price in the USA today!)
Grapelive 93 points “The beautiful and sultry 2017 Crozes from Louis Barruol at Chateau de Saint Cosme is highly entertaining, complex and remarkably easy to quaff even now in its infancy with classic terroir influences and warmly ripe dark fruits, making for a seductive 100% Serine heirloom clone Syrah. Barruol, famous for his estate Gigondas southern Rhone wines, loves his northern Rhone negotiant bottlings, especially his Crozes-Hermitage notes that Syrah at Crozes-Hermitage shows (us) what the balance of a Syrah can and should be, suffused with freshness and pretty peony aromas, and a salty palate that gives depth, but unfurls with no heaviness. I wholeheartedly agree and this vintage has it all and more showing layers of pepper laced blackberry, blueberry, black currants and damson plum fruits along with crushed violets, graphite, loamy earth and black licorice to start with a nice burst of acidity, satiny tannin, a touch of cedar and sweet smoke, all with a vinous textured elegance. Saint Cosme really allows the place and vintage to speak in its most true and best voice in its wines, and this Crozes especially proves this point and is an example of authentic and classic varietal purity… making for outrageous value for the money. For the 2017 version, Barruol and team did 100% de-stemming and fermented in vats before aging the Crozes in 20% new oak casks, with the remaining wine in once and twice used barrels for 12 months. Saint Cosme sourced this wine from extraordinary hillside vines set in granite soils around the villages of Crozes, Larnage, Gervans and Ero^me where Barruol has contracts with old vine parcels… This is irresistible stuff showing gorgeous detail and is fabulous with an array of cuisines from Korean BBQ to Zuni Chicken, in particular it is joyous with lamb kabob and or wild mushroom dishes, drink now or hold for 3 to 5 years.”
Jeb Dunnuck 91 points “Moving to the three Northern Rhônes, the 2017 Crozes Hermitage is outstanding. Loads of red and black fruits, spice, chocolate, and earthy notes flow to a ripe, sexy, medium to full-bodied Crozes that has sweet tannins and loads of upfront charm. Despite its forward style, it has plenty of mid-palate oomph and is going to evolve for over a decade.”
Saint Cosme Cote Rotie, Rhone 2017 750ML ($79.95) $59 special
Jeb Dunnuck 94 points “The 2017 Côte Rôtie is another satisfying, character-filled wine. Complex notes of blackberries, ground herbs, new leather, and violets flow to a medium to full-bodied, layered, complete, balanced Côte Rotie that’s going to shine for 10-15 years. It has some feral, wild notes as well as plenty of old-school character.”
Josh Raynolds – Vinous 93-94 points “Deep, bright-rimmed magenta. Expressive dark berry, cherry, olive, peony and smoky bacon aromas are sharpened by cracked pepper and smoky mineral flourishes. Juicy blackberry, cassis, cherry preserve and floral pastille flavors show very real energy and becomes sweeter with air. Rich, but energetic in style, showing solid finishing thrust and building tannins that add shape and youthful grip.”
Wine Advocate 92-94 points “Notes of smoked meat and cold fireplace mark the nose of Saint Cosme’s 2017 Cote Rotie. It’s medium to full-bodied, with a plush, seductive mouthfeel, supple tannins and a long finish. It should be a beauty.-JC”
Jeb Dunnuck 94-96 points “Notes of camphor, dried soil, crushed rocks, and loads of red and black fruits define the 2017 Gigondas Le Claux, which is 100% Grenache from a site just down the road from the estate. I always find a certain Burgundian character in this cuvée and it’s certainly present in the 2017. With medium to full body, a beautiful elegance and purity, and fine tannins, give bottles a few years and enjoy over the following decade or more.”
Wine Advocate 94 points “The 2017 Gigondas le Claux features deep blue and black fruit on the nose. It’s full-bodied in the mouth, with a generous, silky mouthfeel and an expansive, voluptuous finish that folds in hints of dark chocolate and salted licorice. All Grenache, from vines planted in the 19th century, it’s a terrific Gigondas.”
Decanter 93 points “Fermented in concrete with no destemming and indigenous yeasts, then 100% matured in barriques, one-third new, one-third second use and one-third third use. The wood gives it strong clove notes, joined on the silky palate by raspberry, strawberry coulis and strawberry eau-de-vie. A fine patina of wet-clay tannins coat your lips, slightly drying the palate and leading to a long finish. The St Cosme single-vineyard wines are undoubtedly impressive and strongly oak-influenced, displaying masterful work in the cellar – but they will be too oaky for some tastes, especially in their youth.”
The next best price is $108.95
The average listed price is $124
Check out all their wines in our online store.
Gaja Barbaresco DOCG, Piedmont 2010 375ML ($119.95) $89 special
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 94 points “Smack from the start, the 2010 Barbaresco shows full-on Gajissimo personality with irresistible opulence and intensity, magically contrasted against remarkable smoothness and finesse. Everyone wants to know his secret. The wine delivers seductively rich concentration and integrated oak that is offset by a delicate portfolio of chiseled mineral, dried berry fruit, Spanish cedar, crushed herb, anisette and blue flower. Fruit is sourced from 14 vineyards in Barbaresco. It already leaves a mark, but will reward those who wait. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2028.”
Wine Spectator 92 points “Tinged with new oak that lends a spicy impression, this red evokes cherry, menthol and underbrush notes. Supple and beautifully balanced, with a long finish. Best from 2015 through 2025. 2,100 cases made.”
Stephen Tanzer 92 points “Good bright medium red. Enticing, nuanced nose offers red berries, red cherry and spicy, earthy underbrush. Rich, broad and fine-grained, with lovely inner-mouth perfume and tension. Seemed to shut down in the glass, showing a penetrating juicy quality and finishing with suave tannins and terrific length. A splendid Barbaresco.”
Cantalupo Il Mimo Nebbiolo Rosato, Piedmont 2018 750ML ($21.95) $16 special
Importer Note “Estate-grown Nebbiolo fruit, crushed and left to macerate overnight, then pressed off and fermented at low temperature. This is the first rosè from Nebbiolo that I remember from northern Piedmont, maybe 15 years ago, and it’s just delicious: raspberries, strawberries, fresh acidity. Nice bright flavorful complement to all kinds of foods (salmon, roast chicken, pork, salumi…). Don’t hold the price against it!”
Tiberio Pecorino Colline Pescaresi IGT, Abruzzo 2017 750ML ($24.95) $19.50 special
Ian D’Agata – Vinous 90 points “Abruzzo’s Tiberio winery has quickly risen to the top of the hierarchy not just in Abruzzo’s but in all of Italy. What the talented Cristiana Tiberio has achieved in the very hot 2017 vintage with Pecorino (a variety that does not like heat) is a testament to her talent. The 2017 Tiberio Pecorino is by no means the best Pecorino she has ever made (and frankly, it would have been very strange if it was otherwise, given the year’s weather), but it offers lovely balance with pure sage and kiwi notes that mingle with ripe orchard fruit nuances complicated by a saline edge. Both these wines made for a wonderful start to my meal, but they would have paired very well with all the other dishes I chose to eat this evening.”
The average listed price is $24
Peter Lauer Ayler Kupp Fass 2 Riesling Extra Trocken, Mosel 2017 750ML ($31.95) $26 special
Stuart Pigott-jamessuckling .com 91-92 points “Although this is a serious Saar riesling for the acid hounds, it has plenty of smoky and candied-citrus character. Generous substance, too. Better from 2019.”
John Gilman 90 points “The 2017 vintage of Faß 2 comes in at 12.5 percent octane and is quite dry, as mentioned above, at just over one gram of sugar. The wine is youthful, but shows lovely promise, with the nose wafting from the glass in a mix of pink grapefruit, orange peel, plenty of smokiness, a fine base of slate, wild yeasts and a nice hint of Saar herb tones in the upper register. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied, racy and nascently complex, with great focus, cut and grip and a long, poised and perfectly balanced finish. This will need a year or two longer in the cellar to start to stir than the 2018 version, but it too is going to be an excellent bargain. 2023-2055. 90.”
Domaines Lupier La Dama, Navarra 2015 750ML ($59.95) $49 special
Wine Advocate 96 points “The elegance, finesse and nuance of the 2015 La Dama is simply irresistible. It’s ethereal, perfumed, elegant and complex (rose petals, orange peel, wild herbs…), even if it’s extremely young. It’s bright ruby, with great purity and detail, transparent and full of energy. It is harmonious and nicely textured, with chalky tannins and a stony sensation. It’s more powerful than it feels and has the stuffing and balance to develop nicely in bottle. This is truly sensational, full of mineral energy. 6,878 bottles were filled in May 2017.”
A Loire Value Bargain
I love Cabernet Franc from the Loire—no secret if you’ve talked to me about wine. It’s a grape/region combo that delivers lots of the qualities I’m looking for in red wine. They’re often bright, fresh and vibrant, with enough depth and richness to pair with a lot of different foods. Characteristically, these wines are often a blend of savory and fruit flavors—something I really dig. Plus, these wines are often way undervalued—which means when I say the wine I’m highlighting today is a steal, that statement practically counts double.
Yes, Guion’s Bourgueil “Cuvee Domaine” is a bargain, even by the standards of the Loire. This wine, from one of the leaders in organic farming in the region, is fermented in tank to retain its cool, snappy freshness. That pairs well with its mixture of black and red fruit and Franc-ish spice and savor. This is what I want to drink when I sit down at a bistro (in Portland, or Paris) and the balance of seriousness and refreshment is a difficult trick to pull off. This would be a fantastic wine with Thanksgiving—or really any other time.
In Stock Now:
Domaine Guion Bourgueil Cuvee Domaine, Loire 2017 750ML ($21.95) $18 special
Case-12 Domaine Guion Bourgueil Cuvee Domaine, Loire 2017 750ML ($259.95) $199 special (that’s only $16.58/bottle—the lowest listed price in the USA today!)
Importer Note “There are few properties in France that can boast such a great pioneering legacy in organic farming as Domaine Guion. In the 1950’s, the Guion family established their farm in the heart of the Bourgueil appellation, a stone’s throw from the banks of the Loire Rive… By 1965, they began farming organically, with a holistic understanding of its effects far ahead of their time. Since taking the reins from his father in 1994, Stéphane Guion has a put a much greater emphasis on viticulture, managing 8 ½ hectares of land. Quiet and curious, he is a respected member of the vigneron community in Bourgueil and is often consulted by other growers eager to adopt organic farming practices. Once in the cellar, he only employs native yeasts and allows a moderate maceration of the grapes. “Cuvée Domaine” is entirely fermented and aged in tank.”
Kapcsandy’s First Growth Napa Reds
And that’s where we pick up. In 2000 Lou Kapcsandy discovered that the old Beringer State Lane vineyard, primary source for the Private Reserve Cabernet program, was ripped out due to phylloxera and was for sale. He bought the twenty acre vineyard, replanted it and starting in 2005 began producing some of the most lauded wines to come out of the Napa Valley.
The late Denis Malbec, formerly of Chateau Latour in Bordeaux, got the project up and running and served as a consulting viticulturist and winemaker, producing wines of depth and power. These are Napa wines with a Bordeaux spine and sensibility.
Kapcscandy’s grape growing philosophy involves intense cultivation, involving meticulous hedging and maintenance with continuity in the way the vines are planted, cared for and harvested. Vines are planted 4-5 times more densely than is typical for Napa Valley, showing similarities with the plantings of 1st Growth Bordeaux’s. This higher density spacing creates smaller berries with higher skin-to-juice ratios and induces natural stressing of the vines without artificial human intervention, resulting in a higher intensity of flavors, complexities and aromas.
In Stock Now:
Only two magnums available
Kapcsandy Family Winery State Lane Vineyard Grand-Vin Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley 2009 1.5L ($799.95) $699 special
Antonio Galloni 98 points “The 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Grand Vin opens with the most beguiling bouquet imaginable. Freshly cut flowers, mint, cinnamon and licorice all make an appearance as this vivid, beautifully delineated wine opens up in the glass. A model of total finesse and elegance, the 2009 wraps around the palate with what feels like endless layers of aromas and flavors. This totally seamless, polished Cabernet Sauvignon is virtually impossible to resist today, but it will be even better in another few years. The 2009 is 96% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Merlot and 1% Cabernet Franc.”
Only two bottles available
Kapcsandy Family Winery State Lane Vineyard Grand-Vin Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley 2015 750ML ($499.95) $449 special
Wine Advocate 99 points “Composed of 92% Cabernet Sauvignon and 8% Merlot, the 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Grand Vin State Lane Vineyard sports a deep purple-black color and has a classic nose of crushed black currants, black plums and cedar with hints of dried Mediterranean herbs, underbrush, smoked meats and cloves. Medium to full-bodied, the palate has youthful exuberance with tight-knit, muscular black fruits and spicy suggestions framed by firm, grainy tannins, finishing with great length and depth. Should age incredibly!”
Stephen Tanzer – Vinous 96 points “Deep medium ruby. Aromas of black cherry, licorice and menthol, plus a slightly green suggestion of cassis bud and a hint of coffee torrefaction; aeration brought a suggestion of citrussy lift. Wonderfully dense, fine-grained and sweet; like the Roberta’s, this is much easier to taste today than its 2016 sibling, even if it doesn’t possess quite that wine’s breadth. With its refined texture and sweetness of fruit, this wine comes across as less obviously tannic than the 2016 Roberta’s–yet more indication of the power of Merlot at this site. Incidentally, the ’15s were bottled in July of 2017, a month or two later than previous vintages. (14.2% alcohol; 88% new French, 3% new Hungarian and 9% second-fill French oak)”
Robert Parker 98-100 points “Another potentially perfect wine, with off-the-charts richness, is their largest cuvée of 700 cases, the 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Grand Vin State Lane Vineyard. The wine is a blend of 92% Cabernet Sauvignon and 8% Merlot harvested Sept. 10-25. Notes of graphite, black chocolate, crème de cassis, blackberry and subtle smoke are all present in this dense, seamless, full-bodied wine that has magnificent fruit purity, richness and depth. This is a 30-year wine, and a fabulous one at that.”
Only one bottle available
Kapcsandy Family Winery Rapszodia, Yountville 2015 750ML ($479.95) $419 special
Wine Advocate 95+ points “A blend of 65% Cabernet Franc and 35% Merlot, the 2014 Rapszodia has a deep garnet-purple color and wonderfully spicy nose of cloves, vanilla and cinnamon stick over a core of red and black currants, black cherries and bay leaves. Medium to full-bodied with plenty of baking spice flavors complementing the ripe, expressive red and black berry flavors, it has a very fine-grained texture and plenty of freshness, finishing long.”
Robert Parker 98-100 points “Their 100% Cabernet Franc cuvee, the 2015 Rapszodia Proprietary Red, spent its whole life in 100% new French oak and is an exhilarating wine with off-the-charts richness, an exquisite bouquet of spring flowers, forest floor, rich blue and black fruits, voluptuous texture, incredibly fine, silky tannins, and, for a Kapcsandy wine, relatively elevated alcohol at 14.5%. This is a “wow” wine that should drink beautifully young and last 20-30+ years.”
Only one magnum available
Kapcsandy Family Winery State Lane Vineyard Roberta’s Reserve, Napa Valley 2012 1.5L ($799.95) $699 special
Robert Parker 98 points “The 100% Merlot cuvée, the 2012 Roberta’s Reserve State Lane Vineyard is, once again, flirting with perfection. A stunning nose of chocolate fudge intermixed with coffee bean, black cherry and blackcurrant fruit is intense, and followed by a full-bodied, gorgeously textured, opulent style of wine with stunning richness and purity. This is a brilliant wine and only represents 12% of the production, as only 300 cases were produced. It should drink well for 20-25 years.”
Antonio Galloni 98 points “The 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Grand Vin opens with the most beguiling bouquet imaginable. Freshly cut flowers, mint, cinnamon and licorice all make an appearance as this vivid, beautifully delineated wine opens up in the glass. A model of total finesse and elegance, the 2009 wraps around the palate with what feels like endless layers of aromas and flavors. This totally seamless, polished Cabernet Sauvignon is virtually impossible to resist today, but it will be even better in another few years. The 2009 is 96% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Merlot and 1% Cabernet Franc.”
Stephen Tanzer – Vinous 97 points “Good medium ruby; not as crystal-clear as the 2013. Knockout nose combines crushed dark berries, volcanic (basalt?) minerality and high-toned violet and lilac notes. Spectacularly dense, silky and suave, showing surprisingly firm but perfectly integrated acidity for the year. Wonderfully chewy, strong, structured Merlot with the serious tannic mass to support a long and graceful evolution in bottle–and yet it’s already utterly seamless. Really glistens on the palate and rises on the aftertaste. (14.5% alcohol; 100% Merlot, for the first time; 100% new oak)”
Only three bottles available
Kapcsandy Family Winery State Lane Vineyard Roberta’s Reserve, Napa Valley 2015 750ML ($499.95) $399 special
Wine Advocate 98 points “Made from 100% Merlot, the 2015 Merlot Roberta’s Reserve has a deep garnet-purple color and gorgeous nose of black plums, warm blueberries and mocha with touches of anise, red roses and spice box. Medium to full-bodied and densely packed with layers of blue and black fruits and perfumed notions, it has a firm yet plush backbone to support and a very long, layered finish.”
Stephen Tanzer – Vinous 96 points “Saturated ruby-red. Brooding, medicinal scents of dark cherry, menthol and licorice. Boasts outstanding breadth and density of material, with its expressive flavors of black cherry, dark berries, spices and bitter chocolate complicated by salty minerality and lifted by a subtle floral quality. This distinctly soil-driven wine is showing more personality today than the ’16 and should reach its plane of peak drinkability earlier. And yet my sample tightened up in the glass to show a rather powerful tannic spine. (14.4% alcohol; 100% Merlot; from fruit harvested three weeks earlier than in 2016; 88% new French, 3% new Hungarian and 9% second-fill French)”
Robert Parker 95-98 points “Their 100% Merlot cuvée, the 2015 Merlot Roberta’s Reserve, is another fabulous product with outstanding purity, great balance, loads of chocolate, black cherry and blackcurrant fruit, silky, juicy tannins and terrific concentration, depth and overall balance. It will also be approachable upon release and last 20-25 years.”
From the Most Important Importer of Spanish Wine
About those producers: Muga you know, but there are names like Vatan and Sierra Cantabria that fly under the radar. Vatan is the personal project of Jorge Ordonez in the Toro region. It’s a follow up to Numanthia, a winery that Ordonez created to highlight the singular terroir of the region. He sold Numanthia to LVMH and promptly turned around to start a new project—which brings us to the Vatan wine that’s in stock now. It’s the spiritual successor to the higher end Numanthia wines, just at a mid-tier pricepoint. Like everything else Ordonez does, it delivers exceptional value.
Likewise, the Sierra Cantabria is one of the most important Rioja producers for the Spanish consumer, but here flies under the radar on these shores. From top to bottom, they make some of the richest and most voluptuous wines in Rioja. They’re really special wines, aged in French rather than American oak and given a tremendous amount of care in the production process. We’ve got an assortment of Jorge’s wines in stock and arriving over the next several months, all highlighted below.
In Stock Now:
Bodegas Ilurce Rioja Rio Madre Graciano, Rioja DOCa 2016 750ML ($14.95) $11.90 special
Josh Raynolds 90 points “(aged for six months in one to three year old French oak barrels) Inky ruby. Pungent black and blue fruits, licorice, vanilla and cola scents are complemented by a smoky nuance that builds in the glass. Chewy and focused on the palate, offering concentrated bitter cherry and cassis flavors that are lifted and braced by a spine of juicy acidity. The smoke and cherry notes echo on the youthfully tannic finish, which shows sharp delineation and strong persistence. For the price point this is quite a serious wine, and one that will reward some patience.”
Jeb Dunnuck 90 points “Made from 100% Graciano aged in neutral oak, the 2016 Rio Madre offers a ripe bouquet of black cherries, blackberries, dried flowers, leather, and damp earth. Rich and nicely concentrated, it’s medium-bodied, well-balanced, and has a solid, layered texture as well as a great finish. It blossoms with time in the glass, has plenty of fruit and character, and is a rock-solid value.”
Bodegas Ordonez Vatan Tinta de Toro, Toro 2015 750ML ($49.95) $41.90 special
Jeb Dunnuck 97 points “Seeing the same élevage as the 2016, the 2015 Vatan offers a slightly more saturated color as well as smoking good notes of blackcurrants, smoked earth, melted licorice, violets, and dark chocolate. Fabulous on the palate as well, with full-bodied richness, flawless balance, ripe tannins, and a great, great finish, it’s a primordial baby at the moment, yet this thrilling wine could compete with wine costing 3-4 times the price.”
Case-12 Sierra Salinas Casa Mira, Alicante 2016 750ML ($249.95) $175 special (that’s only $14.83/bottle!)
Jeb Dunnuck 93 points “Also 100% Monastrell but a selection of old, head-trained vines, the 2016 Mira Salinas was brought up in a mix of new, once-, and twice-used barrels. Its deep ruby/plum color is followed by a Bandol-like bouquet of smoked black fruits, earth, meat, and spice. It’s rich, medium to full-bodied, has beautiful fruit, good acidity, and plenty of tannins, and it’s a classic, balanced Monastrell that more than over-delivers at the price. These are custom cuvées for Jorge Ordonez that are only brought into the US.”
Case-12 Bodegas Muga Reserva, Rioja DOCa 2015 750ML ($359.95) $285 special (that’s only $23.75/bottle!)
Jeb Dunnuck 94 points “One of the flagship cuvées from this estate that’s produced in every vintage, the 2015 Reserva is a blend of 70% Tempranillo and the rest Garnacha, Mazuelo, and Graciano that spent 24 months in used French and American oak. Blackberries, currants, cigar wrapper, cedar box, and hints of vanilla all flow to a medium-bodied, concentrated, beautiful Rioja that has ripe tannins, beautiful balance, and a great finish. You couldn’t go wrong with a case of this.”
James Suckling 94 points “Complex nose with ripe black cherries, deeply integrated cedary oak, baking spices, dried flowers, leather, fresh tobacco and earthy notes. This is silky and mellow with long, laid-back tannins that deliver ripe dark plum flavors into a spicy and earthy finish. Drink or hold.”
Pre-Arrival Wines, Arriving ETA Late January:
Sierra Cantabria Reserva Unica, Rioja DOCa 2015 750ML ($34.95) $28 pre-arrival special
Case-12 Sierra Cantabria Reserva Unica, Rioja DOCa 2015 750ML ($379.95) $299 pre-arrival special
Jeb Dunnuck 94 points “The single vineyard 2015 Reserva Unica is one of the few from this estate that’s not 100% Tempranillo, as it includes 3% Graciano. Aged two years mostly in French oak (30% new), its deep ruby/purple color gives way to a brilliant wine that’s loaded with notions of ripe black cherries, blackcurrants, smoked earth, crushed violets, cigar, and lead pencil shavings. It’s rich, full-bodied, has a terrific mid-palate, flawless balance, and a great, great finish. This is a beautiful wine.”
Jeb Dunnuck 98 points “Another tiny production, single vineyard release that’s all Tempranillo, from vines planted in 1973, the 2016 Finca el Bosque was brought up mostly in French oak yet had 10% of the blend aged in Hungarian oak. It has a Pomerol-like bouquet of black and blue fruits, earth, graphite, and lead pencil that develops beautifully with time in the glass. Rich, full-bodied, powerful, and mouthfilling on the palate, it has rocking purity of fruit, sweet tannins, and a killer finish. It’s another rich yet elegant wine from this estate that’s going to keep for four decades or more. Bravo!”
The average listed price is $138
Jeb Dunnuck 98 points “A tiny production, single vineyard release, the 2016 Mágico is based on a field blend of 65% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha, and the rest a mix of permitted varieties, all aged 20 months in new French oak. Its deep, saturated purple color is followed by an exotic bouquet of blackcurrants, blueberries, crushed violets, licorice, and flowery incense. Medium to full-bodied, with incredible purity of fruit, nicely integrated acidity, and fine tannins, it’s another elegant, seamless wine from this estate that builds with time in the glass, has no hard edges, and delivers a massive finish. This gorgeous wine will benefit from 2-4 years of bottle age and keep for 15+ years.”
Domaine de Fondreche makes some of the most profound wines in the Rhone from an overlooked corner of the region. Based in Ventoux, they’ve made a name for themselves for bold, powerful reds that receive critical acclaim and have been placed on wine lists at some of the most prestigious restaurants in France and the US. Because of the obscurity of their region, these aren’t as expensive as they probably should be, despite a multitude of scores in the high 90’s for their wines (case in point, 97 and 95 for the pair today). They’re due to arrive in March and you should lock in pricing now.
Arriving ETA March
Domaine de Fondreche Ventoux Divergente, Rhone 2016 750ML ($69.95) $59 pre-arrival special
Case-6 Domaine de Fondreche Ventoux Divergente, Rhone NTE 2016 750ML ($419.95) $333 pre-arrival special (that’s only $55.50/bottle!)
Jeb Dunnuck 97 points “Reminding me of one of the Sélections Parcellaires Hermitage from Michel Chapoutier, the 2016 Ventoux Divergente is 90% Syrah and 10% Mourvèdre that was mostly destemmed and brought up in foudre. Crème de cassis, black raspberries, peppered meats, graphite, and liquid rock notes all flow to a fat, unctuous, sexy Syrah that has beautiful acidity, fine tannin, and a huge finish. It’s a true “Wow” wine that needs to be tasted to be believed. Put this in a blind lineup of top Hermitage and shock all your friends.”
Wine Advocate 94 points “Less immediately showy and approachable than the 2016 Persia, the 2016 Ventoux Divergente is tight and focused, deserving of a couple of years in the cellar. Smoke, black olive and plum notes dominate this full-bodied wine, picking up hints of espresso on the long, tannic finish.-JC”
Jeb Dunnuck 95 points “The flagship is the 2016 Ventoux Il Etais Une Fois, which is mostly Grenache with tiny amounts of Syrah and Mourvèdre brought up all in foudre. Violets, red and black fruits, spice, and dried earth/limestone minerality all give way to an elegant, medium to full-bodied Grenache that gains depth, freshness, and purity with time in the glass. It has fine, building tannin, a seamless texture, and a great, beautiful finish. Over the previous few years, the quality of this cuvée has soared, and this is one of the finest to date.”
Wine Advocate 94 points “Coming in at the top end of the range I projected for it last year, the stunning 2016 Ventoux Il Etait Une Fois is a blend of 80% Grenache, 10% Mourvèdre and 10% Syrah. It’s a voluptuous, full-bodied mix of black cherries and subtle spice notes, all carried by a seamless, plush, creamy-textured palate through a long, concentrated finish. Wow.-JC”