Monday Bonus Newsletter 12-27-21

Port has been a staple in every cellar since its inception in the 17th century. Not only delicious but also one of the most age-worthy and collectible wine styles in the world, Port is a mainstay on auction blocks around the world from New York to Hong Kong. Vintage Ports are coming from a handful of the best barrels from a singular harvest and must pass through three levels of strict evaluation. Statistically speaking less than 2% of Port is ever bottled as a vintage offering, making them some of the scarcest wines in the world. They consistently rank on the Top 100 lists and rack up impressive scores across a broad spectrum of reviewers. These will delight for decades to come.

Vintage Port Highlights In Stock Now: 

#42 Wine of the Year – James Suckling Top 100 in 2018
Quinta do Noval Vintage Port 2016 750ML ($149.95) $119 special, 28 bottles in stock now
James Suckling 98 points “This is a superb baby Noval that reminds me of the 1966. Chewy yet so polished. The light sweetness suggests an overall dialing back of the sugar content. Stemmy and lightly green. A truly classic Noval. Almost all from Pinhao. Buy. Better in 2025.”
Wine Spectator 97 points “This has terrific energy from the start, with a bramble note inlaid in the core of cherry and plum paste flavors. Sappy, sweet and fresh, with a plum cake-infused finish. Gains focus and polish as it stretches out in the glass.—Non-blind Quinta do Noval vertical (May 2018). Best from 2030 through 2055. 6,000 cases made.”
Mark Squires-Wine Advocate 97 points “The 2016 Vintage Port is a field blend, mostly Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinto Cão and Sousão, aged for 18 months in old wood. It comes in with 82 grams of residual sugar. This was in bottle for only about seven weeks when seen, but I made sure at least some of it had a lot of air. It looks super, with plenty of room to grow in the cellar. Christian Seely likes to say that this regular Noval and the Nacional are not better than one another, just different. In fact, I usually prefer Nacional, but in this vintage I make a case for equality and endorse that view. This was stunning from the first smell, promising concentration, intensity of fruit and great things to come. It had a 100-point nose that made me go “wow!” No wine I tasted had a better nose than this. Violets and blue fruits lead off, with a trace of eucalyptus. I tend to think Noval is a producer that always shows mid-palate finesse, but this seems pretty deep too. It is also intense. The tannins won’t sear your mouth because the balance is impeccable. To be sure, it might close down, but it is surprisingly approachable now, notwithstanding that intensity. Rest assured that this lively young Porto still has all the materials to make old bones. Needless to say, “approachable” does not mean “ready.” You need to toss this in the cellar for a decade, at least. Purists will say to double that or more. When the palate becomes as expressive as the nose—if it does—this will be entitled to an uptick. No pricing was set yet.”

#53 Wine of the Year – Wine Spectator Top 100 in 2019
Quinta do Noval Vintage Port 2017 750ML ($119.95) $99 special, 16 bottles in stock now
Wine Spectator 98 points “This is well-packed, offering the vivid plum, boysenberry, cassis and açaí berry fruit profile of the vintage, along with a dark edge of tar, baker’s chocolate and salted licorice that courses underneath. The long finish lets the fruit play out, keeping singed alder and chai spice hints in the background. Smolderingly seductive. Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Cão, Sousão and Tinta Roriz. Best from 2035 through 2060. 3,500 cases made. — JM”
Neal Martin-Vinous 97 points “The 2017 Quinta do Noval Vintage Port was picked from August 21 to September 28 under perfect conditions. It has a tightly wound bouquet that requires a lot of aeration. Eventually it reveals fabulous, detailed aromas of cassis, bilberry jam, crushed stone and pressed violets, later hints of orange blossom and quince. The palate is pure class. Saturated tannins, wonderful structure but the headline is the intensity of fruit. I cannot remember a Noval with this penetration, almost overwhelming the senses as layers of effervescent black plum and cassis fruit segue into a spicy finish that fans out like there is no tomorrow. Is this the best Quinta do Noval ever?”
Mark Squires-Wine Advocate 97 points “The 2017 Vintage Port is a field blend, mostly Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinto Cão and Sousão, aged for 18 months in old wood vats. It comes in with 99 grams of residual sugar. This was bottled in May 2019, about a month before tasting, but I made sure at least some of it had a lot of air. Aromatic, wonderfully fragrant and laced with eucalyptus, this then shows typical Noval focus and power. A couple of hours in a glass simply increased the power. More intense than the very fine 2016, it grips the palate and shows rather significant astringency. As wonderfully aromatic as this is, there the 2016 might have the edge. Too closed and muscular once past the aromatics, this rather dry Port needs some time. It is harder to read than the 2016 was, but this should overtake it in time. Have some patience with this one.”
James Suckling 97 points “Big grip in this wine with dark blackberries, blueberries and floral notes. Fine tannins. Ripe but sweet and pretty. Shows a lovely finish. Try after 2027.”
Decanter 96 points “Noval spills over into two valleys from Pinhão to Roncão which contribute two very different terroirs to the blend, though both predominantly south-facing. It displays heady Douro aromas of open, ripe, plummy fruit with a touch of dust and eucalypt, wild and aromatic. The palate is dense, smooth and seductive on the palate with firm, schistous tannins rising on to a fresh, linear finish. Beautifully defined and integrated. Just 3,500 cases declared.”

#4 Wine of the Year – James Suckling Top 100 in 2018
Taylor Fladgate Vintage Port 2016 750ML ($119.95) $99 special, 16 bottles in stock now
James Suckling 100 points “OMG. This is really the most amazing young Taylor’s I have ever tasted. Full-bodied and lightly sweet with super power and intensity. So racy and focused. Yet this has such muscle and intensity. Needs at least eight years to show you everything it has to offer. Drink in 2025.”
Wine Spectator 98 points “This is packed with raspberry, blackberry and blueberry fruit flavors that play off one another, melding with anise, fruitcake and ganache notes. A warm tarry edge coats the finish, revealing an echo of bramble. A seriously grippy, strapping Port, this revels in its power. Best from 2032 through 2055.”
Wine Enthusiast 98 points “Ripe, structured while also fruity, this intense, perfumed Port is opulent while also elegant. Its tannins and great fruit are finely integrated and are rich with potential. Black fruits, berries and a juicy aftertaste add freshness to the wine. Drink from 2028.”
Neal Martin – Vinous 97 points “In 2016 Taylor’s began picking in Vargellas on 17 September, followed by Pinhão Valley estate on 23 and 26 September. The 2016 Vintage Port has an aristocratic bouquet with tight wound aromas of blackberry, bilberry, crushed stone, black olive and a light, marine-tinged element, perhaps almost peat-like. The palate is just beautiful with fine, chiseled tannins and a perfect line of acidity. There is that almost “arching” structure one always seeks in a great Taylor’s with a gentle but insistent grip towards the finish. It is everything you really want from a Vintage Port. Production is 6,200 cases.”

Churchill’s Vintage Port 1994 1.5L ($199.95) $89 special, 22 magnums in stock now
Wine Spectator 93 points “A gorgeous, voluptuous young Port, best Churchill ever. Intense aromas of dark chocolate and grapes. Full-bodied, with powerful, chewy tannins, yet it’s sweet and fruity on the finish. Try after 2010. — JS”

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
The average price for the 750ml is 87!!!

Churchill’s Vintage Port 2003 750ML ($89.95) $69 special, 14 bottles in stock now
Wine Enthusiast 92 points “An impressive, finely tannic Port with solid, ripe fruits and great black jelly and fig flavors. -Roger Voss”

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The next best price is $81

Fonseca Vintage Port 1985 750ML ($149.95) $119 special, 21 bottles in stock now
Wine Spectator 95 points “A hard, take-no-prisoners Port, extremely powerful and still closed when last tasted. Deep inky color, with concentrated blackberry and raisin aromas, full-bodied, with massive raisin flavors, a superb backbone and a very long finish.”

W & J Graham’s Vintage Port 2017 750ML ($119.95) $99 special, 24 bottles in stock now
Decanter 98 points “Based on Touriga Franca from south-facing slopes at Quinta dos Malvedos, with Touriga Nacional from quintas Vila Velha and Vale de Mealhadas (both predominantly north-facing), topped out with fruit from old vines at Quinta da Tua and 10% Sousão. It’s a very deep blue-black colour with an expressive, super-ripe nose of plum, mint and bergamot which springs from the glass. The palate is rich, velvety and voluptuous in typical Graham’s style. The initial richness makes the tannins, which show up on the ripe, broad, mouthwatering finish. Wonderful purity and definition. A real wow of a wine! 3.9 Baumé.”
Wine Spectator 97 points “Lush and inviting, with waves of cassis, melted red licorice, plum preserves and boysenberry reduction coursing through, carried by a velvety structure that lets this flow wonderfully. Flashes of apple wood and tar score the finish, which ends with authoritative cut. This is serious. Best from 2035 through 2055.”
James Suckling 97 points “Wow! Amazing aromas of crushed blackberry and blueberry, stems and rose petal. Entrancing. Full-bodied, very tight and powerful with ultra-fine tannins. Intense richness of crushed berries, chocolate, hazelnut and coffee. 5,250 cases. Try after 2026.”
Neal Martin-Vinous 95 points “The 2017 Graham’s Vintage Port was picked from August 28 at Malvedos, though production is one-third less than the previous year. Here the Touriga Franca was particularly early ripening. It has an expressive nose, a mélange of red and black fruit, fig jam, dates and touches of clove, aromatics that are very seductive if perhaps just missing the intellectual capacity of the Dow’s. The palate is medium-bodied with very supple tannins, a gorgeous Graham’s with hints of espresso and cloves that tincture the multi-layered fruit that veers towards black rather than red towards the finish that fans out without a care in the world. This is perhaps one of the more flamboyant Vintage Ports that is likely to drink earlier than the Dow’s, yet that takes nothing away from what is a beautifully crafted Graham’s. Total production is 5,250 cases.”
Mark Squires-Wine Advocate 95-97 points “One of the more aromatic ports here, this is laced with cistus and eucalyptus. Lush in texture and concentrated, it was actually showing well at the time of this tasting—notwithstanding some power and pop. The more it aired out, though, the more power it showed. Even so, this remains a rather refined and suave Graham’s. I’d call it subtly sexy. It does put on weight with some aeration, though, and there is that muscle underneath, so don’t dive in too soon. There were 5,250 cases produced. The 2017 Vintage Port is a blend of 35% Touriga Nacional, 47% Touriga Franca and various others, including a blend from old vines. It comes in with 113 grams of residual sugar. It was bottled about a month before this tasting, but the just-bottled sample was not really ready. This is a pre-bottling sample instead.”

Dow’s Vintage Port 2017 750ML ($119.95) $99 special, 8 bottles in stock now
Dow’s Vintage Port 2017 1.5L ($249.95) $219 special, 3 magnums in stock now
Dow’s Vintage Port 2017 375ML ($69.95) $59 special, 22 half-bottles in stock now
Neal Martin-Vinous 98 points “The 2017 Dow’s Vintage Port showed a slight reduction and required more time to really open in the glass. Typical of Dow’s it has a more backward and introspective bouquet compared to its peers, scents of blackberry, clove, wild mint, cassis and vanilla, gradually gaining more intensity with aeration. The palate is simply glorious. It is built around a compelling tannic frame that seems finer than any Dow’s I have encountered apart from the ethereal 2011. There is so much energy coiled up in this Port, a sense of symmetry that is enthralling and yet you just know that it needs to be cellared for 15-20 years for it to reveal its full potential. For serious Port-lovers. One of the vintages most cerebral offerings. Total production is 5,250 cases.”
James Suckling 98 points “Pure grape aromas that remind me of fermenting must but then goes to stems and dried flowers. Full-bodied, medium sweet with fine-grained tannins that coat your palate. Powerful and muscular yet remains agile and beautiful. Grows on your palate. Wonderful ripe fruit in the middle palate. Try after 2030.”
Decanter 97 points “Based on fruit from the predominantly south-facing Quinta do Bomfim in the Cima Corgo and Quinta Senhora da Ribeira in the Douro Superior, with Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca making up 80% of the blend. This is opaque and closed in but powerfully ripe with underlying pure berry fruit. It’s seemingly quite introverted compared to some of its peers at this stage, but it’s still full, rich and opulent on the palate. It also shows the latent power of the vintage, made as it is in a slightly drier style (3.4 Baumé), with lovely minty fruit and full, ripe sinewy tannins all the way through the finish. Long and lithe, and very fine.”
Wine Spectator 96 points “A dense, thickly textured version, dripping with warm salted licorice, tar and açaí paste notes, while plum and blueberry pâte de fruit, chai spice and chocolate elements fill in behind. Lots of brambly grip flows underneath. Shows a very sappy feel on the finish. Best from 2035 through 2055.”
Wine & Spirits 95 points “This wine seems more accessible than young Dow vintages of the past, perfumed with purple-fruit freshness that’s completely integrated into the wine’s dark tannins. The structural power of those tannins grows more apparent as you spend time with the wine. Though they seem articulate, spicy and grand from the start, they continue to give fruit flavor after the bottle has been open for three days. The details range from cinnamon bark to mincemeat, plum skins and minerals, all of it surrounding the healthy purple-red fruit at the center of this wine. A beautiful and satistfying vintage from Dow, this will develop for decades.”
Mark Squires-Wine Advocate 94-96 points “Opening with dramatic color, this adds violets on the nose. It retains elegance while seeming subtly concentrated rather than jammy. Then, it finishes with pop and controlled power. For those who remember the powerhouse Dows in the past, that’s not quite this for the most part. It is an accessible and elegant Dow, relatively speaking. Charles Symington said that the higher proportion of Touriga Franca compared to some years contributed to that. That said, this still has the structure to age and develop. It seems wonderfully fresh and lifted all the while, but it’s neither rich, nor intense nor austere. This is a Dow that still needs some time to become more expressive and complex, though. There were 5,250 cases produced. The 2017 Vintage Port, bottled in May for release in the third quarter of 2019, is mostly a 42/38 blend of Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca with old vines and miscellaneous others (including about 8% Alicante Bouschet) for the rest. It was bottled about a month before this tasting after 18 months in seasoned vats, but the just-bottled sample was not actually used for fear it might be in shock. This, accordingly, was actually a pre-bottling sample. It comes in with 106 grams of residual sugar.”
Jancis Robinson 18/20 points “Black core with purple rim. Very different from the Stone Terraces just tasted, sweet and somehow more lifted as if more volatile. Hedgerow fruits on the nose, floral too, and again that real sweetness of fruit on the palate. Intense, firmly built but very generous in its sweet fruit character even if not analytically sweeter. Fine-grained but still grainy tannins with some hints of dried fruits on the finish. When I tasted this a second time on a different occasion, it seemed much fresher and more vibrant so I increased my score and lengthened the drinking window.”

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In one of the smallest villages in the Côte des Blancs is Avize. One of the original Grand Cru villages, it plays a role in some of the most recognizable Champagnes: Dom Perignon, Heidsieck’s Blanc des Millenaires, Veuve Clicquot’s La Grande Dame, Selosse, and Agrapart. The wines are deeply influenced by the chalky soils and clay of the region, expressing a core of minerality. 

Waris-Larmandier is a tiny estate founded in 1989. You’ll be forgiven for not having heard of it. It encompasses just over five hectares (all 32+ year old vines) and most of its understated production is snapped up in France and the UK. But the family is in good company, with close familial ties to Larmandier-Bernier, Pierre Gimonnet, and Guy Larmandier. Based in Avize, they tend vines in several Cote des Blanc villages as well as tiny parcels of Pinot Noir and Meunier in the Montagne de Reims, Côte des Bar, and the Aube. The base wines are aged in neutral barrels with liqueur de tirage and dosage made exclusively from estate vines, if added at all. Officially certified biodynamic just last year, these are structured wines bottled at a lower pressure to best showcase Chardonnay’s skill at conveying terroir. 

In Stock Now from Waris-Larmandier:

“The Waris-Larmandier style is terroir-focused, understated, structured, and ultra-elegant.”
Waris-Larmandier ‘Racine de Trois’ Brut NV 750ML ($79.95) $59 special, 24 bottles in stock now 
Importer note “Cuvée Racines de Trois represents the “three roots” of Waris-Larmandier: the contribution of the three siblings to the project, and their use of three grape varieties (chardonnay, pinot noir, and meunier), coming from three regions of Champagne (Côte des Blancs, Montagne de Reims, and Côte des Bar). Together they form the base of Waris-Larmandier’s entry-level Champagne, which combines the structure of chardonnay with the red-fruit characteristics from the two pinots in an incredibly food-friendly, drinkable package. The Waris-Larmandier family utilizes natural and regenerative agricultural practices to cultivate their old-vine Grand Cru vineyards near their village of Avize in the Côte des Blancs. Racines de Trois is certified organic and biodynamic Champagne. The Waris-Larmandier style is terroir-focused, understated, structured, and ultra-elegant.”

Waris-Larmandier Particules Crayeuses Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Extra Brut, Champagne NV 750ML ($89.95) $73.50 special, 21 bottles in stock now
Importer note “Particules Crayeuses is Waris-Larmandier’s flagship Blanc de Blancs cuvée, sourced from the estate’s biodynamically farmed, old-vine chardonnay plots in the Grand Cru villages of Chouilly, Cramant, Avize, Oger, and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger in the Côte des Blancs. The Waris-Larmandier family utilizes natural and regenerative agricultural practices. Particules Crayeuses is certified organic and biodynamic Champagne. The Waris-Larmandier style is terroir-focused, understated, structured, and ultra-elegant.”

“The harmonious palate has a savory, smooth and creamy texture and a long, elegant and supple finish.”
Waris-Larmandier ‘L’Instant de Passion’ Brut Rose, Champagne NV 750ML ($89.95) $75 special, 11 bottles in stock now 
Importer note “L’Instant de Passions Rosé is sourced from the estate’s biodynamically farmed, old-vine chardonnay plots in the Grand Cru villages of Chouilly, Cramant, Avize, Oger, and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger in the Côte des Blancs and pinot noir from the Côte des Bar. The Waris-Larmandier family utilizes natural and regenerative agricultural practices—L’Instant de Passions Rosé is a certified organic and biodynamic Champagne. The Waris-Larmandier style is terroir-focused, understated, structured, and ultra-elegant. L’Instant de Passions Rosé is a very limited, complex œil de perdrix rosé with mellow, earthy mushroom nuances, melting into strawberries, pink grapefruit, saline notes, and baking spices. The harmonious palate has a savory, smooth and creamy texture and a long, elegant and supple finish. A rosé that can be enjoyed before a meal but also has the tension to pair beautifully with food.”

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
The next best price is $82.99

Explore the terroir of Avize with this single-village gems:

Newly arrived!
Christian Bourmault Clos Bourmault Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru, Champagne NV 750ML ($119.95) $99 special, 18 bottles in stock now
William Kelley-Wine Advocate 93 points “Disgorged in October 2018 with five grams per liter dosage, the NV Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Clos Bourmault exhibits aromas of buttered brioche, dried citrus rind, yellow apple, English walnuts and dried white flowers. On the palate, it’s medium to full-bodied, with ripe but racy acids, a delicate core of fruit and a youthfully frothy mousse. This derives from a 0.8-hectare parcel in Avize located above the church.” 
Disgorged February 2019

This is the only listing in the USA today!

Arriving Late January from Larmandier-Bernier’s Avize holdings:
Larmandier-Bernier Les Chemins d’Avize Grand Cru Extra Brut, Champagne 2013 750ML ($179.95) $149 pre-arrival special, only 20 bottles available! 
William Kelley-Wine Advocate 96 points “Revisited from the October 2019 disgorgement, Larmandier-Bernier’s 2013 Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Les Chemins d’Avize continues to show brilliantly, offering up complex aromas of argan oil, fresh apricot and crisp yellow orchard fruit, complemented by hints of fresh walnuts and almond paste. Full-bodied, deep and vinous, it’s layered and elegantly fleshy, with a concentrated core of ripe fruit, racy acids and a long, mineral finish. As I wrote last year, Pierre Larmandier invariably excels in cool, late-growing seasons, so the 2013 vintage was perfectly adapted to his talents.”
Antonio Galloni 94 points “The 2013 Extra Brut Les Chemins d’Avize Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru is floral and gracious, much more so than is common in Avize Champagnes, which tend to have more body. The 2013 is beautifully perfumed and ethereal from start to finish, with striking beams of salinity that confer tension. Candied lemon peel, white flowers, spice, hazelnut, dried flowers and chamomile are some of the many notes that are laced together. This subtle, wonderfully nuanced Champagne has so much to offer. It is the most restrained wine in this range. The Chemins d’Avize is a blend of fruit from Chemin de Plivot and Chemin de Flavigny, done in neutral oak. Dosage is 2 grams per liter. Disgorged: October, 2019.”
Importer note “This vintage cuvée was a long time coming! Pierre knew for many years that his Avize vineyards were unique expressions of the village and merited a terroir cuvee like those of Vertus and Cramant. Historically, the vineyards of Chemin de Plivot and Chemin de Flavigny contributed to the Longitude cuvée, but in 2009 Pierre and Sophie purchased a smaller press to allow them to vinify the juice from these parcels separately. It is fermented in a combination of large foudres and smaller Burgundy barrels…”

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Collector’s Corner: 

Dehu: The Marne’s Master of Meunier 

Please note:

We will close at 5 pm sharp on New Year’s Eve,
be closed New Year’s Day,
& reopen on Sunday the 2nd for our regular hours
10 am – 6 pm