Monday August 18th Newsletter

Descendientes J Palacios Bierzo Petalos 2012 ($24.95) $19 special
Wine Spectator 90 points “Plump yet polished, this red offers plum, espresso, mineral and fresh herb flavors, supported by gentle tannins and fresh acidity. Subtle, harmonious and graceful. Drink now through 2018.”

Santa Rita Medalla Real Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon, Maipo Valley2009 ($19.95) $11.90 special 3+ cases available
Wine Spectator 88 points “A medium-bodied and elegant red, with chocolate and tobacco notes to the ripe flavors of dark fruit, mocha and cola. The supple finish lingers with dried herb nuances. Drink now through 2016.” WS

Santa Rita Medalla Real Gran Reserva Carmenere, Maipo Valley 2008 ($19.95) $11.90 special 3 cases available
Winemaker’s comments: “Deep and intense ruby red in color with a complex bouquet that combines the variety’s typical fresh black fruits and spicy notes that blend elegantly with rich oak to heighten the wine’s chocolate and vanilla characteristics. The result is a big and flavorful wine that is concentrated and persistent without sacrificing elegance or depth.”

 

Santa Rita Medalla Real Gran Reserva Sauvignon Blanc, San Antonio Valley 2012 ($14.95) $8.80 special 3 cases available
Winemaker’s comments: “Brilliant light greenish-yellow in color. The great fruit expression shines the spotlight on grapefruit and lemon blossom citrus notes combined with the classic gooseberry and the distinctly mineral finish that is characteristic of the Leyda Valley. Elegant and compact, this is a tremendously balanced wine with vibrant acidity that spreads over the palate as it develops its fruity components and delivers its long fruit-driven finish.”

Jean Milan Champagne Terres de Noel Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru Brut Blanc de Blancs 2009 ($99.95)$75 special
Stephen Tanzer 93 points “(made from a single plot of 72-year-old vines and aged for around 40 months on its lees; disgorged June, 2013):  Light yellow-gold.  Highly perfumed lemon, orange and toasted nut scents are complicated by a suave floral quality.  Smoky and dry, offering intense lemon pith, orange and buttered toast flavors and a hint of hazelnut.  Becomes creamier with air and finishes with excellent clarity and smoky persistence.”

Jean Milan Champagne Grande Reserve 1864 Grand Cru Brut Blanc de Blancs NV ($99.95)$79 special
Wine Advocate 94 points “The NV Brut Grand Reserve 1864 is another hauntingly beautiful wine great with exquisite inner perfume and lovely softness in its fruit. Aging in oak gives the wine a little more inner sweetness and spiciness, but the oak is very well balanced. Mirabelle plums, kirsch and jasmine are some of the nuances that linger on the haunting finish. The current release is a blend of vintages 2000 and 2001. This bottle was disgorged on July 12, 2011. Dosage is 8 grams per liter. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2018.”

Jean Milan Champagne Symphorine Grand Cru Brut Blanc de Blancs 2008 ($89.95) $69 special
Stephen Tanzer 93 points “Light gold. Ripe tangerine and melon on the nose, with exotic floral and spicecake notes expanding with air. Spicy and energetic, displaying dense orchard fruit, Meyer lemon and honeydew flavors and sneaky power. The broad, sappy finish shows excellent tenacity and leaves sweet citrus fruit and poached pear notes in its wake”

Isole e Olena Collezione De Marchi Chardonnay Toscana IGT 2012 ($49.95) $39 special

Isole e Olena Syrah Collezione de Marchi Toscana IGT 2007 ($69.95) $59 special
Antonio Galloni 94 points “The 2007 Syrah Collezione De Marchi bursts from the glass with masses of dark red fruit, smoke and spices, all of which flow effortlessly from this exuberant, caressing wine. This is a first-class effort from start to finish. Expressive aromatics are woven throughout, adding to an impression of total finesse and harmony. Mint, flowers and raspberries linger on the caressing finish. This is a dazzling effort.”

Isole e Olena Cepparello Toscana IGT 2005 3L ($399.95) $319 special
Isole e Olena Cepparello Toscana IGT 2005 ($79.95) $59 special
Antonio Galloni 94 points “The 2005 Cepparello is striking. It possesses stunning depth and a darker profile of fruit than is typical. The 2005 was quite compact when first released, but what a difference a few years in bottle make. Today the 2005 has begun to blossom into a big, dramatic wine for the year. As was the case throughout most of Chianti Classico, 2005 was shaping up to be a great year until the rains arrived just before harvest. This is a fabulous effort on its own, but especially notable for the vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2030.” AG

Isole e Olena Cepparello Toscana IGT 2006 3L ($399.95) $319 special
Antonio Galloni 96 points “The 2006 Cepparello is a super classic wine. It brings together the best elements of the house style in its breathtaking aromatics, delineated fruit and striking overall balance. All of the elements are in the right place for the 2006 to develop into a spectacular wine. The 2006 stands apart for its nuance, depth and overall detail. Juicy red cherries, raspberries, rose petals and licorice build to the huge, dramatic finish. The 2006 is one of the all-time great Cepparellos. It bears more than a passing resemblance to the stunning 1988. The 2006 has blossomed beautifully in bottle over the last few years, and it is now clear I underestimated its potential. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2036.” AG

Isole e Olena Cepparello Toscana IGT 2009 ($79.95) $59 special
Wine Advocate 95 points “The 2009 Cepparello is gorgeous. It brings together the radiance and ripeness of a warmer year with the medium-bodied structure of a cooler vintage. Today the 2009 is a bit reticent and appears headed for a period of dormancy. From time to time hints of its ultimate potential come through in attractive layers of dark red fruit. The rich, textured finish bodes well for the future. Paolo De Marchi describes 2009 as a year with a cold spring and a hot summer that also brought hail in early August. The 2009 Cepparello is clearly one of the wines of the vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2034.” WA

Isole e Olena Cepparello Toscana IGT 2010 ($79.95) $59 special
Antonio Galloni 96+ points “Isole e Olena’s 2010 Cepparello is magnificent. In particular, I admire the way the wine fleshes out in all directions, with seemingly endless layers of dark, mineral-infused berry, plum and pomegranate notes. A primal wine in need of significant cellaring, the 2010 is easily one of the highlights of the year. Bright, saline notes support the precise finish. Today, the 2010 is naturally quite backward and undeveloped, but it should be a gem in another 5-10 years. This is an especially dark, structured Cepparello built for the cellar. The 2010 brightens up with time in the glass, but it remains one of the darker, more brooding wines made in the estate’s history.”

Isole e Olena Chianti Classico DOCG 2011 ($24.95) $19.90 special
Antonio Galloni 90 points “Sweet raspberry, rose petal and spice notes wrap around the palate in the 2011 Chianti Classico. Soft and enveloping, the 2011 is highly typical of the vintage. In 2011 proprietor Paolo De Marchi used about 10% Syrah to give the wine a little more freshness. Savory herbs, tobacco and licorice add nuance on the finish. The 2011 is an outstanding wine. I would drink the 2011 now and give the 2010 another year in bottle.”

Isole e Olena Vin Santo del Chianti Classico 2003 375ML ($59.95) $49 special
Decanter Magazine “High-toned nose, rich in dried fruit, marmalade and salted nut aromas. Utterly delicious; intense and crammed with flavour – raisins, figs, orange peel – but relatively light on its feet with cracking freshness.”

Isole e Olena Vin Santo del Chianti Classico 2004 375ML ($59.95) $49 special
Stephen Tanzer 94 points “Deep amber-yellow. Sexy, kaleidoscopic nose combines exotic tropical fruits, chestnut honey, raisin, dried fig, caramel and a musky iodine note. Then sharply delineated and penetrating on the palate in spite of its honeyed sweetness, with superb acidity giving spine to the dried fruit and ripe citrus flavors. This wonderfully vibrant yet thick and rich Vin Santo coats the mouth on the long, smooth finish. Great stuff.” ST

Tempranillo is the star of this over 100 year old winery that controls over 300 hectares of clay-limestone soil vineyards.  Founded in 1890 by the Artacho family in Cenicero, Bodegas Riojanas is a large-scale winery with a pioneering spirit.  After the phylloxera devastation, much of the vineyards had to be rebuilt and many French grape growers journeyed to the region to assist.  The winery has a long history of exporting wine across the globe, and with each expansion of the winery and vineyard holdings, their exports have increased alongside.  Their focus today is on their Reserva and Gran Reserva wines: they have expanded fermentation and aging areas.  They are especially noted for the large bottle aging facilities, allowing them to release wines when they reach their peak in bottle.

French oenologist Gabriel Larrendat spent time assisting with the winery in the 1920s and 1930s and named the Monte Real line.  The Reserva is 100% Tempranillo from Cenicero.  The grapes are completely destemmed and the wine is aged for 24 to 30 months in American oak.  The wines are racked as needed without topping up the barrels.  The wine is richly structured with integrated notes of oak.  Although reaching maturity now, it will cellar in bottle for much longer.

Bodegas Riojanas Monte Real Reserva, Rioja DOCa 2006 ($29.95) $24 special 12 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 92 points “(100% tempranillo; aged for 30 months in American oak):  Ruby-red.  Sexy smoke- and spice-accented red fruit and floral pastille scents show impressive clarity and energy.  Smooth, sweet and expansive on the palate, offering intense cherry-cola and blackberry flavors and an exotic rose pastille quality.  Closes very long and sweet, with sneaky tannins and lingering spiciness.  These are far and away the freshest bottles from this historic bodega that I’ve ever tasted stateside.”

Bodegas Riojana Monte Real Gran Reserva, Rioja DOCa 1998 ($59.95) $39 special 32 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 93 points “Dark red with a pale rim. Pungent, spicy nose shows pure cherry, redcurrant and plum complemented by succulent herbs, vanillin oak spice and a hint of dried flowers. Supple, lush and deep, with sweet red fruit flavors framed by gentle, harmonious tannins. Fleshy and sweet on the back end, with impressive concentration and focus. This should age well.”

Bodegas Zugober, founded in 1987 by the young enologists, Eduardo Gomez and Isabel Bernardo, is a relatively small production in Rioja, with only 15% exported worldwide. Eduardo and Isabel, both coming from families with a long wine-making tradition, were determined to set up a modern winery based on old wine-making traditions. Marketing their wines under the name ‘Belezos’, this family-run winery of limited production has continued to operate for 25 years with a particular focus on innovation, modern technology and extreme quality.

The Zugober vineyards, located in Lapuebla de Labarca, are comprised of 85% Tempranillo, 5% Graciano, 3% Garnacha and 7% Viura and Malvasia. Situated on the banks of the River Ebro, this town can be found to the extreme west of the historic lands of Alava, within the Laguardia-Rioja-Alavesa quadrille. Based in an area of steep, craggy hills Belezos’ vines benefit from healthy sun exposure and are protected from cold winds with their southern facing. 2005 was a terrific vintage at Zugober and it shows through in this delicious Reserva, composed of 95% Tempranillo with the rest Graciano and Garnacha, Produced from vines over 45 years old, the Reserva is fermented in tank, and aged in American oak barrels for 18 months, with another 18 months of bottle aging before release, resulting in an intense, dark wine with a perfect balance between fruit and oak.

Bodegas Zugober Belezos Rioja Reserva 2005 ($31.95) $26 special 12 bottles available
Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate 92+ points” The 2005 Reserva is made up of 95% Tempranillo with dollops of Graciano, Mazuelo, and Garnacha aged in oak for 18 months. It delivers a beautifully spicy perfume along with notions of lavender, a hint of balsamic, mineral, and assorted black fruits. Already displaying considerable complexity, it has enough structure (provided by the outstanding 2005 vintage) to evolve for another 5-7 years at which point my rating may appear miserly. It will provide optimum drinking from 2016 to 2025.”

The Toro wine region of Spain is a small area near the border of Portugal in the Castilla y Leon.  It is known for its big, rich red wine from a dark, thick-skinned variety of Tempranilla known locally as Tinta de Toro.  The Terra d’Uro winery is a joint project between two well-known wine makers: Cristiano van Zeller and Oscar Garrote.  Van Zeller comes from a family with a highly esteemed reputation in the Port region of Portugal that formerly owned the Quinta do Noval.  Garrote comes from the restaurant scene in Spain and owns and operates Quinta vale Dona Maria with his wife, Joana.  The Finca la Rana is 100% Tinta de Toro from a single, organic property in the Toro with 22 year old vines.  It is aged in French oak barrels for 11 months.

Terra d’Uro Finca le Rana, Toro ($17.95) $14 special 24 bottles available
Wine Advocate 90 points “The 2010 Finca la Rana is a project between Cristiano Van Zeller and Javier Ortega. It represents one of the region’s outstanding values. The vines are 22 years of age under organic viticulture and the wine is aged for 11 months in French Bordeaux barrels. The nose is well-defined with brambly black fruit, cedar and graphite, in fact, quite Bordelais-like in style. The palate is well-balanced, with a fleshy opening, crisp acidity, and luscious red berry fruits providing joie de vivre and fine tension on the approachable finish. This is a great little Toro red at a superb price. Drink now-2015.”

2010 in Piedmont
A Vintage to Watch in Barbaresco and Barolo

“In Piedmont, winemakers were somewhat surprised to find that harvest ended with superior quality. In fact, the 2010 harvest will make for harmonious, balanced and elegant wines, endowed with bright, vibrant acidity and measured alcohol content.” —Angelo Gaja in JancisRobinson.com

The growing season in Piedmont was unusual in 2010 especially given the successive warm vintages leading up to it.  It began with higher than normal amounts of rain in the spring that interrupted flowering and reduced potential yields.  Hail caused damage in scattered vineyards.  Heavy fog in August also caused concern that ripening would be nearly impossible.  Yet warm and dry weather in September and October heartened growers, and harvests of Nebbiolo generally took in mid to late October.

The vintage really came down to the care grape growers took in the vineyard.  Green harvesting helped allow the already reduced crops ripen fully and evenly.  Vineyards with a greater southern exposure saw greater levels of ripening.  The wines show more tension and brisker acidity, classic to a cooler vintage.  Tannin and structure is not as concentrated as the 2008s.  Many Barolo producers noticed small berry sizes in vineyards, which aided ripening.  The high temperatures and strong diurnal swings in July, September and October allowed the grapes to ripen fully.  The wines are elegant and restrained, without the need decades of aging to be approachable.

Azelia di Luigi Scavino Barolo DOCG 2010 ($37.95) $31.90 special 11 bottles available
Antonio Galloni 91 points “Azelia Barolo is produced from 2.5 Ha of vineyards in both Castiglione Falletto and Serralunga d’Alba. The Nebbiolo is fermented for 15 days on the skins and spends 24 months is ‘botti grande’ large wood cask. Azelia’s base Barolo is not produced from the young vines of the estate, these Nebbiolo vines are 25 to 40 years old! Historically an incredible Barolo value, receives tremendous accolades from the wine press, can age for 12 to 15 years. 900 to 1,100 cases produced a year depending on the vintage.”

Azelia di Luigi Scavino Bricco Fiasco, Barolo DOCG 2010 ($99.95) $79 special 6 bottles available
Antonio Galloni 97 points “Azelia’s 2010 Barolo Bricco Fiasco is incredibly polished in this vintage. Dried roses, crushed berries, tobacco, mint and spices are woven together in a fabric of nearly indescribable class and elegance. The ferrous notes and massive tannins typical of this Barolo are nearly completely covered with layers of deeply expressive, perfumed nuances that captivate all the senses. This is a super-classic feeling Bricco Fiasco from Azelia. I never thought I would describe a Bricco Fiasco Barolo as seductive, but Azelia’s 2010 is that, and a lot more.”

Azelia di Luigi Scavino Margheria, Barolo DOCG 2010 ($89.95) $71.90 special 23 bottles available
Antonio Galloni 96 points “The 2010 Barolo Margheria comes across as quite compact at this stage but then again, it is a young Serralunga Barolo. Iron, graphite, smoke and crushed rocks seem to resonate off a core of expressive dark fruit in a muscular, implosive Barolo endowed with tremendous depth and intensity. With time in the glass the wine’s inner perfume and sweetness begin to emerge, accompanied by expressive floral and savory notes that add tons of pure appeal. The 2010 is going to require considerable patience, but there is a lot to look forward to. Layers of chalk and limestone inflected minerality support to the building finish. The Margheria is aged entirely in cask, which among other things, means the malolactic fermentation is done the spring after harvest, later than the other Azelia’s Barolos.”

Azelia di Luigi Scavino ‘San Rocco’, Barolo DOCG 2010 ($89.95) $71.90 special 20 bottles available
Antonio Galloni 96 points “Dark cherry, plum, smoke, menthol, melted road tar and graphite meld together in the 2010 Barolo San Rocco. A big, explosive wine, the 2010 blossoms in the glass with layers of deep, expressive fruit. The San Rocco is usually a wine of volume and breadth, at it is again in 2010. The firm Serralunga tannins are present, but they are also beautifully balanced. I can’t wait to see how the 2010 develops. Today, the San Rocco is young, young, young.”

G. B. Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero, Barolo DOCG 2010 ($99.95) $79 special 7 bottles available
Antonio Galloni 94 points “The 2010 Barolo Vigneto Monvigliero is as reticent as it is beautiful. With time in the glass, some of the aromas and flavors start to release, but the 2010 is mostly a wine of texture at this stage. Whereas the 2009 was open and resonant, the 2010 is a wine that demands the taster’s full attention. Bright red berries, mint, spices and crushed rocks are some of the many notes that flow through to the chiseled finish. Hints of iron, savory herbs, tar and game add to this super-distinctive Barolo.”

G. B. Burlotto Barolo DOCG 2010 ($49.95) $39 special 33 bottles available
G. B. Burlotto Barolo DOCG 2010 375ML ($27.95) $24 special 24 bottles available
Antonio Galloni 92 points “The 2010 Barolo is gorgeous. Silky and polished to the core, the 2010 graces the palate with sweet red cherries, raspberries, flowers, menthol and spices. The flavors are bright, punchy and beautifully articulated throughout. Even today, the tannins are remarkably finessed, making the 2010 virtually impossible to resist young. Readers who can wait will be rewarded with an exquisite Barolo to savor over many years. This is a great introduction to the vintage at Burlotto.”

Elio Grasso Ginestra Vigna Casa Mate, Barolo DOCG 2010 ($119.95) $99 special 27 bottles available
Elio Grasso Ginestra Vigna Casa Mate, Barolo DOCG 2010 1.5L ($249.95) $219 special 1 magnum available
Antonio Galloni 97 points “Dark red cherries, plums, smoke, tar, menthol and licorice all take shape in the 2010 Barolo Ginestra Vigna Casa Matè. Today the 2010 is painfully young and less expressive than the Gavarini, but equally promising. A generous, resonant wine, the 2010 blossoms in all directions with seemingly endless layers of dark, balsamic-inflected fruit. Today, the Casa Matè is closed and shut down, but it has all the qualities to develop into a spectacular Barolo. The future is bright, especially for readers who can be patient.”

Marcarini Brunate, Barolo DOCG 2010 ($59.95) $49 special 3+ cases available
Marcarini Brunate, Barolo DOCG 2010 1.5L ($149.95) $133 special 2 magnums available
Marcarini Brunate, Barolo DOCG 2010 3L ($299.95) $259 special 1 double magnum available
Stephen Tanzer 93+ points “Bright, dark red. Pungent, high-pitched aromas of bitter cherry, blackberry, mint, blood orange and white peach. Then dense, sweet and pliant yet penetrating thanks to terrific vibrant acidity. For a medium-bodied wine, this communicates an impression of strong dry extract. The firm tannins arrive late, allowing the wine’s finishing fruit to expand and stain the palate. Classic 2010 energy here.”

Marcarini La Serra, Barolo DOCG 2010 ($49.95) $39 special 33 bottles available
Antonio Galloni 91-93 points “Marcarini’s 2010 Barolo La Serra is laced with freshly cut flowers, mint, crushed rocks and red fruit. High-toned floral and spice notes abound in a bright, chiseled Barolo built for the cellar. The vivid, crystalline finish is particularly of note.”

Rocche Costamagna ‘Rocche dell’Annunziata’, Barolo DOCG 2010 ($49.95) $39 special 11 bottles available

Vietti Brunate, Barolo DOCG 2010 ($189.95) $159 special 3 bottles available
Antonio Galloni 97 points “Dark red fruit, iron, new leather and smoke all jump from the 2010 Barolo Brunate. A huge, dense, powerful Barolo, the 2010 Brunate boasts stunning depth and sheer richness. At the same time, though, it is incredibly polished for such a big wine. The Brunate brings together the power of the Lazzarito, but with a greater sense of textural polish and finesse that is typical of the Rocche. In 2010, the Brunate is all about balance and harmony.”

Vietti Castiglione, Barolo DOCG 2010 375ML ($31.95) $27 special 5 half-bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 91(+?) points “Captivating nose combines raspberry, truffle, earth, coffee, tobacco and a positive herbaceous note. Dense and rich but youthfully imploded, with bright acidity energizing the flavors of minerals, mocha and humus. The long, echoing finish features building ripe tannins and considerable incipient complexity.”

Vietti Lazzarito, Barolo DOCG 2010 ($179.95) $149 special 8 bottles available
Antonio Galloni 96 points “The 2010 Barolo Lazzarito is impeccably polished, silky and refined, especially for a Serralunga Barolo. Mint, violets, black fruit, smoke and deep layers of spices are some of the many notes that flesh out on the inviting, textured finish. Today, the Lazzarito is incredibly primary to the point of being raw and undeveloped, but it is explosive, bursting with energy and flat-out great. This is also the first recent vintage I can remember tasting where the French oak is more in line with the other single-vineyard Barolos.”

Vietti Rocche, Barolo DOCG 2010 1.5L ($499.95) $419 special 1 magnum available
Antonio Galloni 99 points “A wine of exquisite beauty, the 2010 Barolo Rocche is pure silk on the palate. The 2010 is incredibly dense, dark and powerful for a young Rocche. With time in the glass, the Rocche opens up nicely, showing the full breadth of its potential and pedigree. Stunning in the glass and impeccable throughout, the 2010 Rocche is firing on all cylinders. Sweet rose petals, mint, spices and licorice are woven into the breathtaking, perfumed finish.”

Ca’ del Baio Valgrande, Barbaresco DOCG 2010 ($37.95) $29 special 3+ cases available
Wine Advocate 94 points “Of course, the Nebbiolos are nothing to sneeze at. The 2010 Barbaresco Valgrande, on the other hand, delivers a heightened sense of elegance and feminine restraint. The bouquet is redolent of cola, tar, blue flower, rosehip with faint hints of exotic spice. The tight grip of the tannins–firm without being astringent–gives this wine the attributes needed for longer cellar time. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2026”

Cantina del Pino Barbaresco DOCG 2010 ($41.95) $33 special 3+ cases available
Wine Advocate 94 points “The 2010 Barbaresco is anything but a -base- Barbaresco says Renato Vacca. It is assembled from fruit sourced in Barbaresco and Neive but grapes are specially selected to make this wine. It opens to a light garnet color and Burgundian aromas of small berries, blue flowers and light spice. There-s a delicate touch of toasted pine nut at the back. Fruit from Nieve contributes more power, heft and color. Fruit from the Barbaresco township renders a sense of elegance and finesse. These wines are not clarified or filtered. Drink: 2017-2028. Renato Vacca releases his Barbaresco one year later than most and is extremely excited about 2010. I visited him on a beautiful spring day as his elderly father fumbled with a ladder to pick fruit off a cherry tree in the background. Renato and his family once sold fruit to Produttori del Barbaresco before Cantina del Pino was founded in 1997. The winery was built in 2000 and Renato introduced the Albesani cru in 2005 to offer contrast to the wine he is best known for, the Barbaresco Ovello. Together he farms five single vineyards in Neive and Barbaresco (Starderi, Albesani, Gallina and Ovello) and makes three expressions of Barbaresco.”

Elvio Tintero Barbaresco DOCG 2010 ($24.95) $21.90 special 24 bottles available

Paitin di Pasquero-Elia ‘Serra’, Barbaresco DOCG 2010 ($37.95) $30.90 special 3+ cases available
Case-12 Paitin di Pasquero-Elia ‘Serra’, Barbaresco DOCG 2010 ($399.95) $336 special (that’s only $28 a bottle!)
Antonio Galloni 93 points “Dark cherries, menthol, tobacco, licorice and tar all emerge from the glass in the 2010 Barbaresco Serra. This is a decidedly dark, powerful, brooding vintage for the Serra. Readers will find a powerful, structured Barbaresco that will require considerable cellaring. The broad-shouldered, brooding style typical of this part of the Barbaresco zone comes through in spades. The Serra spent 18 months in cask.”

Rizzi Barbaresco Nervo Fondetta, Barbaresco DOCG 2010 ($49.95) $39 special 18 bottles available
Antonio Galloni 93 points “Rizzi’s 2010 Barbaresco Nervo Fondetta is another terrific wine from Treiso. Sweet, balsamic and beautifully layered, the 2010 impresses for its exceptional overall balance. Dark plum and cherry notes flesh out in the glass, followed by sweet tobacco, licorice, spice and menthol notes. Sweet floral notes ring out on the finish. As always, the Rizzi style is built on immediacy, and there is plenty of that here, but at the same time, the 2010 boasts plenty of energy and class.”

Rizzi Pajore, Barbaresco DOCG 2010 ($49.95) $41.90 special 16 bottles available
Antonio Galloni 93+ points “The 2010 Barbaresco Pajorè is the best wine I have ever tasted from Rizzi. Layers of deep, balsamic-inflected aromas and flavors wrap around the palate in a rich, expressive Barbaresco. Menthol, pine, minerals and cloves inform the striking, vivid finish. This plush, harmonious Barbaresco from one of the best sites in Treiso is firing on all cylinders.”

Sottimano Cotta, Barbaresco DOCG 2010 ($69.95) $59 special 23 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 93 (+?) points “(from classic clay-and-limestone soil; aged in 15% new oak; Sottimano gets all his barriques from Francois Freres): Bright, saturated medium red. Raspberry, brown spices and earth on the nose, accented by a note of wild sage. At once silky and bright, showing tangy floral lift to the intense, tightly coiled red berry and earth flavors. Juicy, sharply delineated wine with a sexy topnote of blood orange. Finishes with fine tannins and terrific persistence and lift. Barbaresco for the Burgundy lover. ”

Sottimano Fausoni, Barbaresco DOCG 2010 ($69.95) $59 special 12 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 92 points “(aged in 25% new oak; from sandy soil): Good medium red. Highly perfumed aromas of redcurrant, red plum, licorice, incense and dried herbs. Juicy and fairly light, with lovely rose petal lift to the pure flavors of red fruits, dry spices and herbs. Finishes with fine-grained tannins and excellent length and lift.”

Sottimano Pajore, Barbaresco DOCG 2010 ($69.95) $59 special 12 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 92(+?) points “(from a limestone-based vineyard in Treiso, planted at an altitude of 380 meters; vinified with 15% whole clusters): Good bright dark red. Slightly balsamic aromas of cherry cola, dried spices, cedar and cigar box, with some suggestions of very ripe fruit. Lush, round and silky but less showy and aromatic today than the Cotta. Less primary fruit and more soil and tobacco here, supported by firm limestone-driven acidity. Finishes with dusty tannins that reach the front teeth, and a building sweetness that leaves behind nuances of herbs and spices.”

Domenico Clerico Arte Rosso Langhe 2010 1.5 LITER ($99.95) $79 special 6 magnums available
Wine Advocate 93 points “The 2010 Langhe Rosso Arte is a crowd-pleasing blend of Nebbiolo (about 90 percent) and Barbera that drinks sumptuously even at this young age. It shows the important structure, acidity and promptness of fruit for a steady evolution. Many of Clerico’s best wines are engineered in this fashion: Although they taste beautiful straight out of the bottle, they generously reward those who wait. In this case, you get layers of bold fruit, spice, and tobacco that are carefully woven into the thick and enduring fabric of the wine. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2025.”

Marco Marengo Valmaggiore Nebbiolo d’Alba 2010 ($31.95) $28 special 10 bottles available

Edi Keber Collio Bianco, Friuli-Venezia Giulia 2013 ($29.95) $24 staff pick special
“This is an old-school style blend of 70% Ribolla Gialla and the rest Fruiliano and Malvasia.  It starts off with a funky, earthy note that blows off quickly.  This is followed by flinty minerality with bright citrus and white floral aromatics.  In the mouth, there are some notes of raw honey and good texture.  This wine would be excellent on its own as an aperitif or with light summer foods such as chicken salad with almonds or a mixed greens salad with a tangy vinagrette.”

Gaston Chiquet Carte Verte Tradition Brut NV 375ML ($27.95) $24 staff pick special
Gaston Chiquet Carte Verte Brut Tradition NV 1.5 LITER ($99.95) $89 staff pick special
“The Chiquet family has been making wine in Dizy, Champagne since the 18^th Century. Since 1919, two brothers, Fernand and Gaston Chiquet, were pioneers in the idea to actually farm, keep their own grapes, turn them into Champagne sell their own wine. Another quality producer from, a shocker I know, the Terry Theise Portfolio. On the palate, notes of green apple, pear, brioche, with a touch of lemon. The still wine is aged without oak. 40% Pinot Meunier, 35% Chardonnay, and 25% Pinot Noir.”

Champagne of the Week

 

Aubry is one of the very few producers in Champagne to use the region’s indigenous varieties; Arbanne, Petit Meslier, Fromentea (Pinot Gris), and Enfumé, (a supposed mutation of Pinot Meunier).  The estate’s plantings of these rarely used and somewhat forgotten grapes were completed in 1989, coincidentally marking the Aubry family’s 200 year anniversary of cultivating grapes.  Blended with the more familiar Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay, these wines have been a major factor in putting Aubry on the map with the use of these seldom seen varieties allowing their originality to really shine.

Following a philosophy of discipline, respect for tradition and creativity, twin brothers Phillipe and Pierre Aubry have carried the family tradition and are now the current proprietors.  Descendants of a long line of winemakers, the brothers celebrate the tradition by bringing back these varieties their ancestors once used.  They have worked together to express beautiful interpretations of these ancient grapes that impart unique flavors and textures to the different blends.  Located in the village of Jouy-lès-Reims, in the western sector of the Montagne de Reims, the Aubry estate sits on the harmonious hills of Petite Montagne.  All vineyards are Premier Cru, with the soils consisting of a deeper type of clay and sandy topsoil, bringing a slightly less austere character to the wines and showing more purity of fruit.   Aubry truly expresses the originalities of a ‘grower Champagne’, full of individuality and incomparable character.

Aubry Brut NV 750ml ($41.95) $36 special 3+ cases available
Aubry Brut NV 3L ($319.95) $279 special 2 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 91 points “Bright straw.  Pungent aromas of Meyer lemon, pear and fig, with a gingery accent adding lift.  Sappy, penetrating citrus fruit and floral flavors are given a refreshingly bitter character by notes of pear skin and peach pit, with a waxy note coming up on the back half.  A smoky nuance lingers on the finish, which shows very good clarity and length.”

 Aubry Nombre D’or Campanae Brut 2008 750ml ($79.95) $59 special 6 bottles available
Antonio Galloni 93 points “The 2008 Brut Le Nombre d’Or Campanae Veteres Vites is beautifully open, expressive and resonant today. Here the aromas show gorgeous breadth and volume. Pastry, brioche, dried flowers and mint all jump from the glass. The style is boisterous and intense, yet all the elements are in the right place. Nombre d’Or Campanae Veteres Vites incorporates all six of the grape varieties allowed in Champagne. The blend is 25% Pinot Gris/Pinot Blanc, 20% Pinot Noir, 20% Petit Meslier, 15% Chardonnay, 15% Arbanne and 5% Pinot Meunier. The Chardonnay was done in oak while all the other grapes were fermented in tank. This bottle was disgorged in March 2013. Dosage was 3 grams/liter.”

Aubry Nombre D’or Sable Blanc des Blancs 2007 750ml ($89.95) $79 special 12 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer 92 points “Made from 30% chardonnay, 30% petit meslier, 20% arbanne and 20% pinot blanc, with a very low dosage of 2 g/l; disgorged June, 2012):  Light yellow.  Intensely perfumed bouquet of orchard fruits, tangerine, chamomile and anise, along with a suggestion of ginger and a mounting floral element.  Firm and dry in the mouth, with chewy pear skin and citrus flavors giving way to deeper peach and nectarine on the back half.  Shows a suave blend of richness and energy, finishing very long, with lingering spiciness and minerality.”

Aubry Nombre D’or Sable Bdb 2008 750ml ($79.95) $69 special 22 bottles available

Aubry ‘Nicolas Francois Aubry’ Sable Rose 2008 750ml ($89.95) $77 special 23 bottles available

Tablas Creek Esprit De Tablas Rouge 2011 1.5 LITER ($119.95) $89 special final four magnums available
Wine Advocate 93 points “A blend of 40% Mourvedre, 30% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 10% Counoise, the 2011 Esprit de Tablas has a core of sweet black raspberry and cassis that is cut by more savory, meaty nuances, pepper and spice. Medium to full-bodied, rich and beautifully textured, with ripe tannin, it’s a more streamlined, fresh version of the cuvee that relies more on elegance and complexity than sheer depth and richness. It will have 10-12 years of longevity.”