In Today’s Newsletter:
Featured Fourrier Offer
New Week – New Arrivals
Willi Schaefer:
New Arrivals & New Reviews Featurette
Single Vineyard, Grand Cru Champagne
Arriving Tomorrow!
De Villaine’s Affordable Burgundies
Long Shadows Vintners Collection
Last Chance!
Subscriber-Only Sale Ends Tonight at Midnight!
The Classic Burgundy of Chandon de Briailles
Featured Fourrier Offer
Arriving October 26th
Domaine Fourrier Chambertin Clos-de-Beze Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes 2013 750ML ($699.95) $599 pre-arrival special, only 2 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer-Vinous 92-95 points “Bright, dark red. Sappy raspberry, strawberry and black cherry aromas and flavors are complicated by earth and spice notes. Voluptuous and fine-grained but extremely backward, with perfectly judged oak. Most impressive today on the whiplash of a finish. This distinctly masculine wine will need many years in bottle to unclench.”
Burghound 92-95 points “Reduction flattens the fruit but there is good freshness and a lovely inner mouth perfume to the very spicy and mineral-driven big-bodied flavors that are shaped by notably ripe tannins on the backward, structured and very markedly serious finale. I like the balance and the underlying material and provided that you have the patience to wait at least 10 years this should be first-rate.”
Neal Martin-Wine Advocate 92-94 points “The 2013 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze has an open and generous bouquet with beautiful floral scents: violets and rose petals, all with great delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with filigree tannins, superb acidity and tension with a very precise saline finish. This is a very fine Clos-de-Bèze from Jean-Marie.”
“A wine of class and grace.”
Domaine Fourrier Chambertin Clos-de-Beze Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes 2015 750ML ($699.95) $599 pre-arrival special, only 1 bottle available
Stephen Tanzer-Vinous 93-95 points “Moderately saturated medium red. High-pitched perfume of raspberry and crushed rock. Savory and sharply delineated, conveying strong soil character to its flavors of raspberry, minerals and rose petal. Still tight but not austere, this compellingly juicy wine finishes brisk and very long. This will need time in bottle to open and blossom. These vines are located just above Fourrier’s Cherbaudes holding.”
Burghound 92-95 points “Discreet wood does not interfere with the clear expression of the wonderfully spicy red currant, black cherry and softly earthy-scented nose. There is much more refinement to the powerful, intense and moderately dense flavors that delivers excellent complexity and outstanding length. A wine of class and grace.”
Neal Martin-Wine Advocate 91-93 points “The 2015 Chambertin Clos de Beze Grand Cru has a detailed and refined bouquet with bright red cherries, crushed strawberry and a touch of orange blossom. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, good density, vibrant with a frisson of active limestone on the finish. This is a fine Clos-de-Bèze, although I must be honest, I was expecting more breeding on the finish.”
Domaine Fourrier Chambertin Grand Cru Vieille Vigne 2014 750ML ($699.95) $599 pre-arrival special, only 1 bottle available
Stephen Tanzer-Vinous 92-95 points “(from 85-year-old vines): Healthy medium red. More closed and less exotic than the Clos de Bèze. Dense, sappy and thick but youthfully tight, with the plum and redcurrant flavors showing much less obvious sweetness than the Clos de Bèze or Cherbaudes. This is more austere, with the serious tannins currently cutting off the fruit. I’d like to see this again in a year or two.”
Burghound 92-94 points “Like the Clos de Bèze moderate wood can be found on the brooding nose of black pinot fruit that is liberally laced by notes of earth and animale nuances. The lush and very generous medium weight plus flavors possess both good energy and fine precision while delivering excellent power and minerality on the balanced, long and youthfully austere finale. Once again I would suggest buying this only if you have the intent of aging it for at least 8 years or so.”
The next best price is $630.50
The average price is $660
“Don’t miss!”
Domaine Fourrier Chambertin Grand Cru Vieille Vigne 2015 750ML ($779.95) $679 pre-arrival special, only 2 bottles available
Neal Martin-Wine Advocate 94-96 points “The 2015 Chambertin Grand Cru has a beautifully defined bouquet with black cherries, crushed strawberry, bergamot and rose petal scents, the mineralité surfacing with a few swirls of the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red berry fruit, gentle grip, fine structure with impressive density on the finish. The elegance will come later, with bottle age.”
Stephen Tanzer-Vinous 94-96 points “(made from even smaller berries than the Clos de Bèze, according to Fourrier; this fruit was picked on September 20; just one new barrel out of four): Deep red. Wild, soil-driven scents of raspberry, minerals, spices and game. Boasts outstanding richness and depth of texture without heaviness, although some unabsorbed CO2 is muting the wine’s fruit today. Most impressive today on the spicy, building finish, which features utterly noble tannins and pronounced terroir character. “The magic of 2015 was the way the vines were able to maintain their plateau of ripeness for two weeks,” noted Fourrier.”
Burghound 93-95 points “Don’t miss! A prominently less spicy but even more complex nose displays admirable purity on the cool, dense and restrained array of various black berry fruit, earth, forest floor and a hint of the sauvage. The more mineral-driven and overtly powerful big-bodied flavors possess even better energy if less refinement on the hugely long, serious and built-to-age finale. This will absolutely require at least a decade of bottle age and reward double that.”
“Flat out terrific and highly recommended.”
Domaine Fourrier Clos Saint-Jacques, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru 2005 750ML ($799.95) $699 pre-arrival special, only 1 bottle available
Stephen Tanzer-Vinous 94+ points “Good deep red. Knockout nose combines raspberry, mocha, roast coffee, game and minerals, accented by mint and oak spice. The palate offers a lush wall of thick fruit that saturates the entire palate without leaving any impression of weight. This densely packed beauty finishes extremely long and smooth, with utterly suave tannins and superb aromatic lift.”
Burghound 94 points “Outstanding. A positively gorgeous nose of cool red, blue and violet aromas nuanced with hints of anise, stone, mild earth and crushed herb notes that continue onto the classy, refined and very pure flavors that retain a terrific sense of focus and detail on the firmly tannic and almost Zen-like finish that is a study in harmony and grace. Flat out terrific and highly recommended. Stated differently, don’t miss it!”
The average price is $801
Domaine Fourrier Clos Saint-Jacques, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru 2008 750ML ($699.95) $599 pre-arrival special, only 3 bottles available
Antonio Galloni 96 points “The 2008 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St. Jacques engages all of the senses with its cool, mineral-laced fruit and expressive bouquet. This shows marvelous tension and energy, not to mention fabulous overall balance. It could not be more different in style than the 2009 tasted alongside it. Both are fabulous, though. The 2008 is one of the more backward wines of the vintage and will require considerable patience.”
“an intense wine of harmony and drive with everything it needs for a long life.”
Domaine Fourrier Clos Saint-Jacques, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru 2009 750ML ($599.95) $519 pre-arrival special, only 3 bottles available
Antonio Galloni 96 points “The 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St. Jacques is a seamless beauty laced with sweet hard candy, perfumed cherries, kirsch and sweet spices. The sweetest and silkiest of tannins caress the palate from start to finish as this sublime Burgundy conquers all of the senses. The laser-like, pure finish is breathtaking.”
Stephen Tanzer-Vinous 94 points “Good bright medium red. Wild, musky aromas of strawberry, raspberry, minerals and game; quite explosive on the nose. Sweet, fat and savory, with the musky quality carrying through on the palate. Not particularly high-pitched or floral but offers terrific intensity of red berry and soil flavors. Fourrier believes that following three vintages with lower levels of phenolic maturity, many growers overextracted in 2009. Incidentally, he’s now confident about his labor-intensive system for sealing his bottles with wax and believes that a wine like this Clos Saint-Jacques should have no trouble aging for 20 years.”
Burghound 93 points “This storied terroir often produces one of the most elegant and sophisticated of all the 26 Gevrey 1ers with the gorgeously refined red berry fruit and floral nose suffused by an almost pungent minerality that continues onto the supple, fresh and vibrant medium-bodied flavors that possess excellent concentration and a stunning, even explosive if firmly structured finish. This is an intense wine of harmony and drive with everything it needs for a long life.”
Domaine Fourrier Clos Saint-Jacques, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru 2010 750ML ($599.95) $519 pre-arrival special, only 3 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer-Vinous 95 points “Medium red. Perfumed aromas of raspberry, dried rose, smoke and pepper. Deep, dry and intense on the palate, with compelling inner-mouth perfume to the raspberry and orange zest flavors. The wine’s exhilarating sugar/acid balance and peppery lift give the very long, savory finish outstanding verve. Tannins are utterly suave.”
The next best price is $599
The average price is $697
“a quite brilliant wine from Jean-Marie Fourrier.”
Domaine Fourrier Clos Saint-Jacques, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru 2012 750ML ($559.95) $499 pre-arrival special, only 2 bottles available
Wine Advocate 96 points “Tasted blind at the annual “Burgfest” tasting in Beaune. The 2012 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St Jacques from Fourrier is showing the most stems on the nose, but it is so full of character with supreme delineation. The aromatics clearly need three or four years to fully coalesce. The palate is divine: supremely fine tannin, perfectly judged acidity, utterly harmonious with not a hair out of place on the finish. There is so much sophistication here that it does not know what to do with itself. This is the Clos Saint Jacques that is leading the pack – a quite brilliant wine from Jean-Marie Fourrier.”
Stephen Tanzer-Vinous 94+ points “Bright, moderately saturated dark red. Brilliantly pure, vibrant aromas of raspberry, rose petal, spices and crushed stone; here the terroir trumps the vintage character. Wonderfully silky on the palate but with a firm spine of acidity giving the flavors of red berries, flowers and crushed stone a youthfully clenched quality. Finishes with outstanding breadth and saline complexity, the noble tannins thoroughly coated by fruit. It will be a treat to try this wine next to the 2013 version a decade from now.”
The average price nationally is $568
“In a word, marvelous.”
Domaine Fourrier Clos Saint-Jacques, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru 2014 750ML ($669.95) $599 pre-arrival special, only 2 bottles available
Stephen Tanzer-Vinous 94 points “Healthy medium red. Sexy, complex aromas of strawberry, crushed stone and rose petal convey a captivating combe coolness. Wonderfully concentrated and bright, combining classic 2014 salty minerality with superb fruit intensity. Boasts the kind of restrained generosity of fruit that reminds me of the ’99s in the early going. A compelling, saline vin de terroir but not a powerhouse. The long, rising finish features very suave tannins.”
Wine Advocate 93 points “Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2014 tasting, Jean-Marie Fourrier’s 2014 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St Jacques (labelled with “Vieilles Vignes”) has a very pure bouquet, almost coulis-like fruit, dark cherries intermingling with blueberry and light marmalade scents. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, a fine line of acidity, quite sensual in the mouth with good depth on the finish. Perhaps what it is missing is that peacock’s tail—it sort of ends in the wrong key. There is great potential here though not best in the (Clos Saint-Jacques) show this year. Like a television with its contrast turned up a bit too high when compared to its peers. Tasted September 2017.”
Burghound 92-94 points “Sweet Spot Outstanding. This is at once cooler and more elegant with its airy assortment of pure red and blue pinot fruit, floral, spice, earth and tea scents. There is fine intensity and excellent delineation to the pungently mineral-inflected and refined medium weight flavors where the sense of refinement is enhanced by the super fine-grained tannins, all wrapped in an explosively long and perfectly balanced finale. In a word, marvelous.”
This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast!In Stock Now from Domaine Fourrier:
New Week – New Arrivals
Oregon
Kelley Fox Wines ‘Ahurani’ Pinot Noir Momtazi Vineyard, McMinnville 2016 750ML ($27.95) $24 special
Grapelive 94 points “One of Oregon’s talented new generation of winemakers Kelley Fox has released her latest Ahurani Pinot Noir from the biodynamic vines at Momtazi Vineyard in the McMinnville AVA. It’s a beauty. In 2016 (as in 2015) Fox used 100% whole cluster, and it’s produced from blocks on the top of the tallest hill of the vineyard. This block selection cuvee is remarkably fresh and vivid in a vintage that some found warm and even over-ripe in places… At 13% it’s as refined and bright as you’d want [and] wonderfully balanced. Fox, after long stints at Eyrie and Scott Paul wines, started her own winery with the 2007 vintage and has gained a stellar reputation ever since. [She] is one of the region’s rising stars with absolutely star quality wines with this offering of Ahurani being an exceptional value in her lineup… The ripe and warm year really allows the use of whole bunch and stems here and it shows that the total harmony found here in this gorgeously detailed Pinot. Fox’s wonderful touch and judgement are also on full display too, as there is the perfect amount of tension and stemmy thrill to go with the graceful and silky fruit. This is a wine that grabs your attention and seduces you with purity of flavor, texture, subtle perfume and dreamy length. The palate is surprisingly complex and mouth filling considering the restrained natural alcohol. This Ahurani retains an energy and acidity profile that is fresh and vibrant that provides an excellent stage to show the vivid layers of black cherry, pomegranate, wild plum and strawberry fruits, liquid mineral, a touch of earth, sweet/minty Thai basil/herbs, peppery cinnamon and a heady mix of floral elements and woodsy chanterelles. Air and time in the glass allows this youthful Pinot Noir to gain an even more intriguing and engaging charm. Its color seems to become even more translucent and glowing with a bright ruby and garnet core. [There’s] a touch of rose petal, a cut of orange tea, and a nice play of spice and sexy blue fruits on the aftertaste. This 2016 is easy to love even now, but I can really imagine things developing further over the next 2 or 3 years in bottle. I am absolutely blown away with this latest set of Kelley Fox wines. This is not a label to miss, especially her Pinot Blanc and this Ahurani Pinot Noir!”
The next best price is $29.99
Importer note “Benoit is an eighth generation vigneron that returned to the family estate after working for Bollinger. He is committed to natural farming and aims to craft unadultered, pure Pinot Meunier. He purchased this 1.7 hectare vineyard and farms it biodynamically. The results are exceptional and we are thrilled to introduce Benoit’s work to our clients. The Cuvee La Rue de Noyers, named for the walnut trees that line the parcel, is a wine that will keep you intrigued and coming back for more. Organically farmed Pinot Meunier, 1.7 hectares farmed biodynamically. A quarter of the property is worked with a horse named Violette. Vinified in oak barrels, many of which are made from trees from the forest of Fossoy. No malo, no dosage, unfined and unfiltered.”
The next best price is $98
Importer note “Cuvée Initiation is the newest addition to the Déhu lineup. Made from his signature variety Pinot Meunier and 25% Pinot Noir, which Benoît planted using massale selection of Pommard clone from Burgundy. Oak vinification and ageing, unfined and unfiltered, low dosage. The wines is zippy and round with a persistent finish. Sourced from a small parcel at the bottom of the hill which Benoît planted using massale selection of Pommard clone from Burgundy.”
The next best price is $86
Winery note “82% Pinot Meunier, 18% Chardonnay + 17% red wine (mainly Pinot Meunier); aged for three years on the lees. On the palate, it is an explosion of crushed raspberry, wild strawberry and fresh mango. It is broad in the mouth and surprisingly smooth and fresh. As it warms, its aromas open into notes of pear and quince.”
The next best price is $143
Isole e Olena Cepparello Toscana IGT, Tuscany 2015 1.5L ($179.95) $149 special
James Suckling 96 points “Shows lots of black cherries, cranberry tea, caramelized orange peel, roasted herbs and citrus peel. Full-bodied with ripe and quite round tannins that frame layers of cherries. Bright and fresh, yet rich and long at the same time. The sangiovese character really springs out of the glass. Drink in 2020.”Isole e Olena Collezione Privata Cabernet Sauvignon Toscana IGT, Tuscany 2014 750ML ($89.95) $69 special
James Suckling 93 points “Shows plenty of red peppers, dried spices, nutmeg and blackcurrants. Full body, ripe and chewy tannins and a medium-long finish. Very well done for the vintage. Drink in 2020.”
The next best price is $74.98
Winery Note “(translated) The grapes come from espalier plants of about 40 years, all grafted onto American cuttings. Presents clusters of medium size and spherical grains of very intense color, pulp rich in minerals and sugars (23-25%), thin peels with high concentration of anthocyanins and tannins. Wine with an intense ruby red color with reflections still young, consistent and not very transparent. The nose is rich and persistent with hints of ripe fruit, with hints of grass that tend to balsamic. Subtle tertiary aromas, with a slight spiciness and toasting. The taste is warm, with quite austere tannins, well balanced with a strong and enveloping taste. It is definitely a wine with rich and fatty foods based on meat, game, and winter dishes typical of the mountain cuisine, it also goes well with aged cheeses.”
Winery Note “(translated) The grapes come from around 70-100 year old vines. Presents clusters of medium size and spherical grains of very intense color, pulp rich in minerals and sugars (23-25%), thin peels with high concentration of anthocyanins and tannins. Wine with an intense ruby red color with garnet reflections, consistent and not very transparent. The nose is rich and persistent with hints of ripe fruit, aromas of underbrush, balsamic and earthy. The taste is warm, with austere tannins, without excessive drying, fresh and lively wine. It is definitely a wine with rich and fatty foods based on meat, game, and winter dishes typical of the mountain cuisine, it also goes well with aged cheeses.”
The next best price is $69.99
Willi Schaefer
New Arrival & New Reviews Featurette
As with many things involving the wines of the Mosel, it’s best to let Terry Theise do the talking. He imports the wines from Willi Schaefer, but we don’t find his prose to be hyperbolic in the slightest. Ok, perhaps a touch, but seriously not by a lot—the wines are that good. Here’s what he has to say:
“For many tasters, these are the Ne Plus Ultra of Mosel wine, and they have attracted an almost religious following. Thus my most frustrating agency, as there is never enough wine. It is hard to put a finger on exactly what it is that makes these wines so precious. There is a candor about them that is quite disarming. They are polished too, but not brashly so. They are careful to delineate their vineyard characteristics, and they offer fruit of sublime purity. They are utterly soaring in flavor yet not without weight. What many of you seem to have warmed to is their clarity, precision and beauty of fruit, so maybe I’ll leave it at that!
“If you’re new to all this, there’s a reason these wines are so beloved. Part of it is they’re so scarce; the estate is all of 4 hectares with no desire to grow. Part of is the wines themselves; they’re silly with deliciousness. And as crystalline as they are, as ethereally complex and limpidly clear, they have a quality of calm; they don’t fuss at you how amazing they are. They are, dare I say, affectionate; they just sit in the glass and love you. And so we love them back. We banish all the unruly beasts of our ragged natures, and slip into the warm pool, and let ourselves, for once, be happy.” –Terry Theise
Featured Willi Schaefer Newly Arrived & Newly Reviewed
Weingut Willi Schaefer Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese #4, Mosel 2016 750ML ($79.95) $59 special, 12 bottles in stock now
Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 96 points “The 2016 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese has a bright, white-golden color and displays a perfectly ripe, intense and slightly honeyed bouquet of small, golden Riesling berries. On the palate, this is a super lithe, elegant, very complex and stimulating Auslese with mouth-filling texture and mouthwatering salinity and mineral grip. Although the 2016 drinks beautifully today, it will be absolutely fabulous in 15 years.”
Also Newly Reviewed and In Stock Now from Willi Schaefer
Weingut Willi Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Riesling Kabinett, Mosel 2016 750ML ($37.95) $33 special, 17 bottles in stock now
Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 92 points “The 2016 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Kabinett is clear, deep and smoky on the nose, more stony and earthy/mineral on the nose than the Himmelreich Kabinett. The fruit is rather cool and very fine here. On the palate, this is a lush, racy-piquant, beautifully salty Kabinett with firm yet fine mineral structure and a mouthwatering finish.”
Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 91 points “The 2016 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett displays a stony and floral bouquet with ripe white fruit aromas. Round, lush and sweet, with a refreshing and grippy minerality, this is a charming Riesling with mouthwatering salinity and precision in the very salty, titillating finish.”Weingut Willi Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spatlese #5, Mosel 2016 750ML ($54.95) $49 special, 26 bottles in stock now
Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 93 points “The 2016 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spätlese (AP #5) has a lovey clear, piquant and still reductive nose that indicates tremendous complexity and richness. Round, super lush and elegant on the palate, this is a beautifully balanced and harmonious Spätlese that has an even riper and more textured character compared to the Spätlese #10.”
Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 94 points “The 2016 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spätlese (AP #10) is one of three Spätlesen that were selected in 2016. The wine has a very clear and smoky bouquet of perfectly ripe, healthy Riesling berries and yellow-fleshed stone fruits. Round, lush and piquant, this is a very elegant and stimulating Spätlese with lingering, mouthwatering salinity. The wine is complex but not all too intellectual. It has a ripe but coolish-elegant character with a long, well-structured finish.”
Weingut Willi Schaefer Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spatlese, Mosel 2016 750ML ($44.95) $39 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 93 points “The 2016 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese is clear and precise on the deep and flinty nose that also shows some floral aromas. Round, lush and sweet on the palate, with delicate acidity and lingering salinity, this is an elegant and already very accessible Spätlese with a very fine, aromatic, mineral, piquant and salty finish. A classic.”Weingut Willi Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Riesling Auslese #11, Mosel 2016 750ML ($89.95) $79 special, 12 bottles in stock now
Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 96 points “Tasted from a 375-milliliter bottle, the 2016 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Auslese (AP #11) offers a very clear, super ripe but still healthy bouquet of perfectly ripe Riesling intermixed with flinty, slightly caramelly aromas. On the palate, this is a lithe yet complex, piquant, refreshingly mineral and highly elegant Domprobst Auslese that reveals a firm, tensioned structure in the long, salty, already stimulating finish.”
Stuart Pigott – JamesSuckling.com 95 points “Amazingly concentrated for a Kabinett, but it is also cool and finely nuanced with an entire spectrum of fruit and herbal notes. Hints of smoke and flint, too. The crystalline clarity of the long finish is literally breathtaking. Drink or hold.”Weingut Willi Schaefer Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spatlese, Mosel 2017 750ML ($59.95) $45 pre-arrival special, only 4 bottles available!
Stuart Pigott – JamesSuckling.com 95 points “So Mosel wines are light? Yes they are and this one only has 7% alcohol, but it is staggeringly concentrated for that figure. In spite of having a slew of citrus and stone-fruit aromas, it is also very subtle and graceful. The finish is as pure and straight as a laser beam. Drink or hold.”
Weingut Willi Schaefer Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese, Mosel 2017 750ML ($59.95) $49 pre-arrival special, only 3 bottles available!
Stuart Pigott – JamesSuckling.com 95 points “A ton of floral and peachy charm on the nose. In spite of the high acidity of the vintage, this has a playful personality. Another stunning wine from this producer. A long lemon, gooseberry and mineral finish. Drink or hold.”
Arriving This Tuesday, October 16th
Single Vineyard, Grand Cru Champagne
The Pierre Peters Champagne bottlings are regularly rated by critics as “outstanding” and Rodolphe Peters is universally considered one of the top growers in Champagne. Founded in 1919 under the name Camille Peters, the Pierre Peters estate was one of the first growers in Champagne to start bottling and selling wine under their own label, and by 1929 became a full Récoltant-Manipulant (colloquially known as ‘Grower Champagne’), managing every step in their production from vineyard to bottle.
Rodolphe Peters took over the reins of this venerable estate in the southern Côte des Blancs in 2008, becoming the fourth generation to lead the estate. Today, the estate consists of 18 hectares of vineyards, predominantly in the grand cru of Les Mesnil-sur-Oger along with smaller holdings in the Côte des Blancs (Oger, Avize and Cramant). These great terroirs, all Grand Cru, all Chardonnay, are located a few miles south of Epernay and lay on a chalky outcrop. Very sensitive to the quality of their vineyards, Rodolphe uses sustainable farming methods and aims to produce the best grapes naturally. The hands-off wine-making and low dosage add further complexity to the wine.
The Domaine has maintained, and perhaps even improved, quality throughout its generations, and the enthusiasm for their wines continues to grow. The top wine of Pierre Peters is the “Les Chetillons” (or Cuvée Spéciale) considered to be one of the best single-vineyard champagnes of the Côte des Blancs, alongside Salon and Krug’s Clos du Mesnil (though it is not a rival in price). It comes from three small parcels in the vineyard of Les Chetillons that were acquired by the family in 1930. One of the most highly-regarded sites within Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, these vines in the oldest plot of 80 acres are 68 years old, with the rest of the vines averaging 50 years old. The Cuvée Spéciale has been pure Chétillons ever since it was created in 1971. At that time, it was sold as a Spécial Club wine until François Péters left the Club in 1981. 2000 was the first vintage of Cuvée Spéciale to state the name of the vineyard on the label, Les Chetillons. Each parcel is vinified separately and blended to produce a single vineyard vintage. Chétillons offers a chance to witness one of Champagne’s best growers working in one of the greatest sites for Chardonnay. The results are gorgeous, as noted wine writer Peter Liem states, “there’s no denying this wines’ quality.”
Pierre Peters Single Vineyard Champagne Arriving This Tuesday:
Pierre Peters Cuvee Speciale Les Chetillons Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Brut, Champagne 2011 750ML ($149.95) $125 pre-arrival special, 36+ bottles available
Wine Advocate 94 points “The 2011 Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Les Chetillons Cuvée Speciale shows a clear and spicy bouquet with earthy and vegetal notes at the moment. There are also some white nougat and pignon flavors. On the palate, this is a firmly structured, fresh, elegant and, right now, lightly austere Chétillons that should be cellared for a decade, as Rodolphe Péters recommends. The long and mineral finish is very clear, fresh, firm and highly complex. This is a very promising Blanc de Blancs from three plots in Les Chétillons that were fermented separately. By the way, 50% of the wine is kept aside as reserve, while 5,000 to 11,000 “vintaged” bottles are produced from the 2.5 hectares Péters owns in the extraordinary cru whose sélections massales date back to 1981 and 1936. The 2011 Cuvée Speciale is dosed with four grams per liter and was disgorged in January 2018. Tasted at the domaine in April 2018.”
Antonio Galloni 93 points “The Brut Cuvée Spéciale Les Chétillons is quite frankly a revelation. It is also one of the wines of this very challenging vintage. Candied lemon peel, white flowers, sage, mint, tangerine and pastry abound. The savory elements that are typical of the year are nearly buried by the sheer richness and concentration of the fruit. Given the trajectory of so many 2011 Champagnes, I would not push my luck with the 2011 Chétillons, but there is no doubt this is an impressive effort from Rodolphe Péters. Disgorged November 2017. Dosage is 4.7 grams per liter.”
Pierre Peters Champagnes Arriving in November:
Pierre Peters Cuvee Speciale Les Chetillons Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Brut, Champagne 2011 1.5L ($349.95) $299 pre-arrival special, 2 magnums available
[See reviews above]
Pierre Peters Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Brut L’Esprit de 2013, Champagne 2013 750ML ($119.95) $89 pre-arrival special, 4 bottles available
Antonio Galloni 93 points “The 2013 L’Esprit once again shows just how compelling this vintage is. Bright acids play off a core of rich, textured fruit laced with tropical overtones. Beautifully layered and resonant, the 2013 possesses fabulous depth and tons of character. The Esprit is a terrific choice for readers who want to get a look at the quality of 2013 in the Côtes des Blancs, or who want to explore the Pierre Péters Champagnes without splurging on one of the prestige bottlings. Don’t miss it. Disgorged December 2017. Dosage is 4.2 grams per liter.”
Wine Advocate 92+ points “The 2013 Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Millésime L’Esprit de 2013 has a clear, fine, fresh and precise bouquet of white flowers, spices and citrus fruits—lemon peel, lemongrass and even a touch of rhubarb. Dense and intense on the palate, with lots of energy and expression, this is a well-structured, highly elegant and finessed, remarkably pure and fresh 2013 with a long, complex, greatly tensioned and salty finish. Disgorged as Brut in November 2017 (dosage: 4.5 grams per liter). Tasted April 2018.”
Importer note “4 selected parcels from Le Mesnil-sur-Oger Grand Cru, Oger Grand Cru, Avize Grand Cru and Cramant Grand Cru.”
Pierre Peters L’Etonnant Monsieur Victor Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru, Champagne (2011) NV 750ML ($349.95) $299 pre-arrival special, 4 bottles available
Terry Theise note “There is a droll and touching story about the label concepts, which entail a series of pastiches of various “famous” works of art in the style of Takashi Murakami. Think Manga graphics meet Pop-Art style; they’re funny and vivid. The wine is “based on a blend of our best Perpetual Reserve’s vat and our best Vin Clair’s vat, aged on a natural cork while on the lees, it matures for more than five years before disgorgement.” As you would expect, production is tiny.”
Importer note “50% best tank of Chetillons 2011 + 50% Oubliee 2010 base. From Le Mesnil-sur-Oger Grand Cru, Cramant Grand Cru, Avize Grand Cru and Oger Grand Cru. Aged sur latte for 72+ months.”
Pierre Peters ‘Reserve Oubliee’ Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut, Champagne NV (2012) 750ML ($149.95) $119 pre-arrival special, 9 bottles available
Terry Theise note “The wine answers a challenge presented to Péters by a British wine writer, to loosen the wines up by permitting casks to be used. What he did instead was to age the wine an extra year in tank before tirage, to create a “mature but not oxidative” Champagne. It’s aged agrafé on the lees, also for longer than the regular NV. The wine can be wonderful. They make their own dosage from must-concentrate they do themselves (does anyone else in Champagne do this???) and age it in a 60-liter barrel of old wood from Cognac, so the Champagne has a sly bit of bois after all. After a short hiatus to let the 2011-base to slip into the mists, we’re back and with a vengeance. This is 2012-based, deg 11/2017, and it’s a wild beast, extreme biscuits and rye crackers; balances the power of ’12 with the herbal notes from ’11 and ’10; raw pizza dough, sorrel, this wine is crazy in the best way.”
Pierre Peters Cuvee Rose for Albane Brut, Champagne NV 750ML ($129.95) $99 pre-arrival special, 8 bottles available
Importer note “2015 base with 15% reserve wine from perpetual reserve. 55% Chardonnay, 45% Pinot Meunier saignee. Aged sur latte for 24+ months. From Le Mesnil-Sur-Oger Grand Cru and Cumieres 1er Cru.”
Winemaker’s note “An innovation and small revolution for our family house which produced exclusively Blancs de Blancs Champagnes prior to 2007, this Cuvée is a blend of Chardonnay from Le Mesnil and a wonderful “Rosé de Saignée” giving birth to a Rosé Champagne in keeping with the Pierre Peters style: full of freshness, purity and elegance.”
De Villaine’s Affordable Burgundies
Arriving in November
“Aubert de Villaine deserves the accolades he receives. He is a reluctant hero, an unlikely trait in a man of such accomplishment, intellect, and inherent sense of noblesse [and] heir to one of the most enviable wine legacies of all time, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti.
“In the 1970s, Aubert and his American wife, Pamela, sought less pedigreed pastures to call home. They finally settled in the village of Bouzeron, well-situated between Chassagne-Montrachet, Santenay, Rully, and Mercurey, in the Côte Chalonnaise. However high profile his day job, Aubert still considers himself a vigneron like any other, and Bouzeron’s off-the-beaten-path location left him alone to make his own wines without the demands of upholding an international reputation. The domaine was horribly rundown when the de Villaines took over, but years of studying this unique terroir have made them pioneers in one of the last forgotten enclaves of Burgundy. The monks of the great abbey of Cluny first planted vines here in the twelfth century, leaving a legacy that has endured for centuries. Consequently, the grape varietal that reigns supreme today is the dry, white Aligoté—an unusual celebrity given its work-horse reputation in the middle of Chardonnay country. Bouzeron boasts the best Aligoté in Burgundy, the Aligoté Doré, (instead of the lesser clone, Aligoté Vert) which gives smaller yields to produce wines with more expressive aromatics. Although the grape was overlooked until 1979 when it first earned the appellation Bourgogne Aligoté de Bouzeron, the I.N.A.O. finally upgraded the appellation to A.O.C. Bouzeron in 1997, largely due to Aubert’s advocacy over the years. Aubert’s single vineyard Bourgognes, both in blanc and rouge, are equally outstanding representations of the unlikely pedigree found in this corner of the region…
“Their single-vineyard parcels are stunning examples of what this complex and amazing terroir can yield. Though their wines are quite enjoyable young, their ability to age well is what one might expect from a master such as de Villaine. Much of this is due to both the diversity of his vinestock and his organic and biodynamic methodology in the vineyards, both of which Aubert stands by with great conviction… Pierre de Benoist, Aubert’s nephew, currently directs the domaine, upholding the sense of tradition, excellence, and standards for which it has become so well-known.” –Kermit Lynch Imports
Domaine A. & P. De Villaine Bourgogne Cote Chalonnaise Les Clous Aime Blanc, Burgundy 2016 750ML ($39.95) $33 pre-arrival special
Winery note “Les Clous Aimé comes from several parcels located on a south-facing slope of Bouzeron’s valley, sheltered from summer’s north wind during ripening. Our vineyard here is planted with selections of Chardonnay grapes that we have chosen for moderate yields. 2016 [was a] great success. Our Clous Aimé 2016 is powerful, dense with a soft and floral touch on the palate at the same time. A wine of pleasure, without complexity and very attractive. No need to think about it, it simply must be drunk.”
The average price is $41
Domaine A. & P. de Villaine Bouzeron Blanc, Cote Chalonnaise 2016 750ML ($39.95) $33 pre-arrival special
Winery note “Our Bouzeron comes from vines situated on the best slopes of the appellations. We have planted to Bouzeron the golden Aligoté doré grape, which gives lowers yield and more aromatic wines than its cousin, the Aligoté vert. True to its varietal nature, our Bouzeron is a liveley, fruity wine, but it also has a finesse and roundness that spring from the essential nature of the terroir. These qualities lend it great versatility. To best appreciate the freshness and fruit, our Bouzeron would be drunk young, within two or three years. To allow the wine to fully develop fullness and “fatness”, age it for up to ten years. This Bouzeron 2016 is more floral than fruity but remains very fresh, thanks to the acidity present. This liveliness, as always, is generated by the particular marl-limestone soils of Bouzeron. Rich, round and lively at the same time, the mouth feel oscillates between richness of the fruit, roundness generated by a good maturity and a saline presence, a palatability that makes the wine extremely digestible.”
The average price nationally is $38
Domaine A. & P. de Villaine Rully Les Saint-Jacques Blanc, Cote Chalonnaise 2016 750ML ($51.95) $45 pre-arrival special
Winery note “Our vineyard in the “Les saint-Jacques” parcel is located at the foot of an east-facing slope, just below the Clos Saint-Jacques- one of the Rully’s most famous premiers crus. Planted in 1990, this vineyard is the legacy of an old Côte d’Or vineyard-it is made up of moderate-yield Chardonnay selections. Usually, we pick enough berries to vinify in foudre and few barrels. With the frost incident, we picked only a few that we were only able to vinify a small amount of barrels. This is an intense wine that we offer you whose nose revolves around fresh fruits complemented by floral and spicy notes. Beyond this sensation of aromatic concentration, our Rully Les Saint Jacques, as always, express its terroir with elegance and finesse.”
Domaine A. & P. de Villaine Bourgogne Cote Chalonnaise La Digoine Rouge, Burgundy 2016 750ML ($59.95) $49 pre-arrival special
Winery note “La Digoine is a site at the foot of a slope, known for centuries to provide the deep soil and growing conditions necessary for excellent red wine. At first sight, the colour is sustained, intense red. Even if the nose is still slightly shy, it suggests a great wine; this impression is confirmed by the complexity on the palate. A wine fleshy, rich, deep, full of ripe and silky tannins. These wines having been matured and vinified the most natural way possible, we would recommend that you cellar them for a bit and then let them breathe before drinking.”
Domaine A. & P. de Villaine Bourgogne Cote Chalonnaise La Fortune Rouge, Burgundy 2016 750ML ($49.95) $39 pre-arrival special
Winery note “Fresh with fruity notes that evoke blackberry, red fruits, wild strawberries. The tannins are soft, silky and give the wines, beside a powerful structure, a real aromatic lightness.”
Long Shadows Vintners Collection
World Class Wines by World Class Vintners
From the exceptional 2015 vintage
Arriving in November
One of the greatest collections ever from this famed project!
Case-6 Long Shadows Vintners Collection, Columbia Valley 2015 750ML ($399.95) $319 pre-arrival special
Contains one 750ML bottle each of Long Shadows’ six acclaimed red wines, packaged together in a beautifully etched wood box
2015 Pirouette:
Jeb Dunnuck 95 points “The 2015 Pirouette Red Wine is a Cabernet Sauvignon dominated cuvée that includes 21% Merlot, 11% Petit Verdot and 3% Malbec. It spent 22 months in 75% new French oak. Blackcurrants, dark chocolate, crushed rock, and graphite notions all dominate this rich, opulent, beautifully concentrated, layered red. It has enough tannin to warrant short-term cellaring and is going to keep for 10-15+ years.”
2015 Feather:
Jeb Dunnuck 97 points “The 2015 Feather Cabernet Sauvignon is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon that was brought up in 90% new French oak barrels. Its inky purple color is followed by a seamless, pure, impeccable balanced Cabernet that has loads of currants, scorched earth, graphite, and espresso aromas and flavors. Deep, rich, gorgeously pure and polished, with building tannin, it’s a heavenly Cabernet Sauvignon that has everything you could want. It’s the finest vintage to date of this cuvée and is capable of lasting for 20-25 years.”
Wine Advocate 96 points “The 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Feather is lovely, unfurling in the glass with aromas of cassis, blackberries, petroleum jelly and burning embers. On the palate, it’s full-bodied, ripe and powerful, with an expansive attack and an ample core of dark berry fruit, underpinned by a fine-grained, stony chassis of ripe tannins. This wine is made by Howell Mountain veteran Randy Dunn, and its profile—while marked by the torrid 2015 vintage—will be familiar to followers of the wines he produces there.”
2015 Pedestal:
Jeb Dunnuck 96 points “The 2015 Pedestal Merlot from Long Shadows is a blend of 75% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Petit Verdot aged 22 months in 85% new French oak barrels. Crème de cassis, wood smoke, scorched earth, and graphite characteristics all emerge from this rich, full-bodied, voluptuous beauty that has more mid-palate depth and richness than any other Merlot made in the state. With ample tannin, it will benefit from a year or three and keep for 15. It’s a gorgeous wine.”
2015 Sequel:
Jeb Dunnuck 95 points “Incorporating 7% Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2015 Sequel Syrah wasn’t destemmed and spent 18 months in 65% new French oak. Its inky purple color is followed by a huge nose of blackberry liqueur, espresso roast, scorched earth, and dark chocolate. This is followed by a full-bodied, beautiful Syrah that has remarkable freshness and purity, fine tannin, and a great, great finish. It’s always a pedal-to-the-metal effort, yet the 2015 stays beautifully fresh and lively on the palate. This is certainly one of the finest vintages to date.”
2015 Saggi:
Jeb Dunnuck 94 points “Crème de cassis, ripe black cherries, licorice, and toasty oak all emerge from the 2015 Saggi Red Wine, which is a blend of 62% Sangiovese, 28% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Syrah. With an inky color, full-bodied richness, fine, polished tannin and a great finish, it’s another terrific wine from this estate that’s going to evolve beautifully for 10-15 years.”
2015 Chester-Kidder: (no reviews yet)
VinopolNote: The back bone of this wine is Cabernet from Walla Walla and nearby Candy Mountain. Its deepness and darkness is Syrah from the estate’s Benches Vineyards with a touch of Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. Aromas of dried figs and cocoa powder, along with hints of tamarind and toasty oak are followed by intense violent and blueberry jam flavors beautifully integrated around a spicy core.
The next best price is $430
Last Chance
Subscriber-Only Sale Ends Tonight at Midnight
The Classic Burgundy of Chandon de Briailles
Special Deals on Special Burgundy
The wines of Chandon de Briailles are old-school and brilliant because of it. Made with lots of whole clusters and an age-worthy approach, they are wines that need time but pay off in a big, big way. The estate has been a bit of an insider secret for years (wines from Corton and Pernand don’t get noticed as much as sexier appellations) as these wines are fantastic for their prices. We’ve secured a lot of Grand Cru Corton from Chandon de Briailles, arriving over the next week, and are offering you a Subscriber Special through Monday (10/15) at midnight—buy any 6+ bottles of Chandon de Briailles and receive a 10% discount off of these already subterranean low prices.
Subscriber Special ends Monday, October 15th at 11:59PM PT
Discount will not display online—we will manually apply before processing your orderQuantities Limited, Act Fast Now!Arriving This Friday:
Burghound 91-93 points “This too is quite reduced yet from barely perceptible fruit seems fresh. As is usually the case there is slightly finer mouth feel to the broad-shouldered flavors that also possess fine mid-palate concentration, all wrapped in a firmly structured but not hard finish. This is youthfully austere with just a hint of rusticity and this too will definitely require patience.”
Wine Spectator 91 points “This is spicy, with sandalwood, vanilla, green olive and wild berry flavors building from start to finish. Balanced in a lean, tightly wound style, presenting a lingering, spicy aftertaste. Best from 2018 through 2032. 334 cases made.”
The next best price is $100
The average price is $118
Wine Spectator 94 points “This needs air to reveal the deep cherry and raspberry flavors. Pure, with mineral and earth details adding grace notes. Though balanced, this will require time for the structure and flavors to meld. Fine length. Best from 2020 through 2035. 367 cases made.”
Burghound 93 points “Reduction presently dominates the nose and I would again strongly suggest decanting this first if you’re going to sample a bottle before 2 to 3 years of age. On the palate there is a seductive texture to the velvety, complex and attractively mineral-inflected medium weight plus flavors that possess a fine sense of balance and deliver excellent finishing persistence along with impressive depth. This too is textbook.”
The next best price is $99.97
The average price is $119
Burghound 92-95 points “Sweet Spot. A markedly ripe yet elegant nose that consists of rose petal, plum liqueur, lilac, spice and wet stone aromas is trimmed in enough wood to notice. The very rich, intense and wonderfully vibrant big-bodied flavors evidence obvious minerality on the mouth coating and impressively long finish. This is a big and refined effort that is very much built-to-age so patience required.”
The next best price is $140
The average price is $169
Wine Spectator 93 points “All the elements are here in this young red. The raspberry and cherry flavors are pure, framed by subtle oak spice notes and supported by a firm structure. The finish echoes fruit and spice details despite closing up a little. Best from 2019 through 2032. 98 cases made.”
Burghound 90-93 points “Reduction. Here the big-bodied flavors are both bigger and richer with fine volume and density before terminating in a velvety, palate coating and muscular finish. This is old school in style but not at all hard or even especially rustic though note well that patience will be required.”
The next best price is $107.90
Wine Spectator 93 points “Though concentrated, this is also lean and chewy, with big, dusty tannins framing blackberry and blueberry fruit. Good acidity keeps this focused, though this will need some time for the structure to resolve. Fine length. Best from 2022 through 2036. 15 cases imported.”
Burghound 91-94 points “This too manages to be at once very ripe but attractively fresh with its liqueur-like aromas of dark currant, plum, lilac and warm earth. The powerful yet sleek medium weight plus flavors brim with dry extract thanks to the concentrated amount of sappy dry extract that imparts a velvety mouth feel to the hugely long finale. This is less rustic than it usually is though with that said, it’s less refined than its two big boy stablemates.”
The next best price is $135.99
The average price is $141Buy any 6+ bottles of Chandon de Briailles, receive a 10% discount on them
Subscriber Special ends Monday, October 15th at 11:59PM PT
Discount will not display online—we will manually apply before processing your order
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