In Today’s Newsletter:
2008 Dom Perignon – A Legend in the Making
Gerard Boulay’s Sancerre Mastery
No Girls Wines from Cayuse’s Christophe Baron
Paolo Bea: Icon of Umbria
Trending Wines
Staff Pick: A Beautiful Spring White
The Powerful and Complex Muller-Catoir ’17s
A Fantastic Cotes du Rhone from the President of Latour
The Most Exciting Spanish Wines We’ve Tasted?
2008 Dom Perignon
A Legend in the Making
“The 2008 Champagnes that have been released so far capture all the potential I sensed when I first tasted the young vins clairs right after harvest. The 2008s are racy, energetic and tense, in the style of cool years like 1996, but with more fruit depth and less austerity. At the top end, the finest 2008 Champagnes are viscerally thrilling, chiseled wines that will soon be recognized as modern-day icons.…Of course wine is much more complex than numbers alone, but the first 2008s I have tasted point to an exceptional, and perhaps even legendary, vintage. 97+ points” – Antonio Galloni, on the 2008 Champagne Vintage
“Departing chef de caves Richard Geoffroy says that 2008 is his best DP vintage since 1990.” – Decanter
“The 2008 vintage of Dom Pérignon is an absolute classic in the making and this is destined to be one of the great recent years for this iconic cuvée.” – John Gilman, A View from the Cellar
Arriving Friday:
#5 Wine of the Year – Wine Spectator Top 100 in 2018
Dom Perignon Brut, Champagne 2008 750ML ($249.95) $189 pre-arrival special
Antonio Galloni 98+ points “The 2008 Dom Pérignon is fabulous, but quite remarkably, it was even more open when I tasted it a year ago. Bright, focused and crystalline in its precision, the 2008 is going to need a number of years before it is at its best. Lemon peel, white flowers, mint and white pepper give the 2008 its chiseled, bright profile. Several recent bottles have all been magnificent. What I admire most about the 2008 is the way it shows all the focus, translucence and energy that is such a signature of the year, and yet it is also remarkably deep and vertical. In other words, the 2008 is a Champagne that plays in three dimensions.”
John Gilman 98 points “The 2008 vintage of Dom Pérignon is an absolute classic in the making and this is destined to be one of the great recent years for this iconic cuvée. It is far more classically structured out of the blocks than the relatively generous 2009 version, offering up a deep, complex and very youthful bouquet of menthol, green apple, a touch of tangerine, a very complex base of minerality and notes of dried flowers in the upper register. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and rock solid at the core, with precise mousse, brisk acids and stunning length and grip on the primary and laser-like finish. This will demand some cellaring to start to really stir and should prove to be an extremely long-lived vintage of DP. Stellar juice.”
James Suckling 98 points “The best Dom since 2002. A vintage with very restrained, powerful style that has been released non-sequentially after the 2009. This has a lighter stamp of highly curated, autolytic, toasty aromas than many recent releases. Instead, this delivers super fresh and intense aromas of lemons, grapefruit and blood-orange peel. Incredible freshness here. The palate has a very smoothly delivered, berry-pastry thread with light, sweet spices, stone fruit and fine citrus fruit. This really delivers. Drink now or hold.”
Decanter 96 points “Departing chef de caves Richard Geoffroy says that 2008 is his best DP vintage since 1990. The first half of the growing season was dull and sunless, but good weather returned in mid-September and led to one of the longest harvests, running into October. The summer provided ideal conditions for a classic, cool, maritime vintage of exceptional, subtle aromas with minerality and freshness. This has a vibrant but controlled acidity, and is above all a memorable symbiosis of mature fruit and salinity derived from top terroirs. The poised mouthfeel makes this a perfect gastronomic wine, strong enough for spicy Asian cuisine from the Pacific rim, but still compatible with classics such as roast turbot and lobster.””
Wine Spectator 96 points “There’s power to this graceful Champagne, with the vivid acidity swathed in a fine, creamy mousse and flavors of toasted brioche, kumquat, pastry cream, candied ginger and poached plum that dance across the palate. An underpinning of smoky mineral gains momentum on the lasting finish. Drink now through 2033.”
Gerard Boulay’s Sancerre Mastery
“Given the crystalline purity of his Sauvignon Blancs, he has become one of my favorite producers of the central Loire. If you want to know what true Sancerre tastes like, try one of his single-vineyard bottlings. It does not come any better!” – Joel Payne, Vinous
Gerard Boulay makes some of the best white wines in France from his vineyards in Chavignol. Chavignol is the true beating heart of Sancerre and the host of all the best names in the region (Vatan, the Cotats, Boulay, etc.) and Boulay owns some of best located sites in some of the best vineyards in the town. From his parcel in La Grande Cote to Monts Damnes to the famed Clos Beaujeu, all of his wines ring with terroir and the unique minerality that’s inherent to Chavignol.
For the prices that Boulay charges, these are some of the most electric and profound whites in all of France. While low-tier Sancerre always seems overpriced, the top producers in the region make extraordinary wines that seem to be completely undervalued (with the obvious exception of Vatan). 2016 was a fantastic year in the Loire and Boulay made some of his best bottles in his career. We have a few cases of each of the cru wines arriving Friday, so these should disappear quickly, but they’re worth jumping on now.
Arriving Friday:
Gerard Boulay Sancerre La Cote, Loire 2016 750ML ($59.95) $49 pre-arrival special
Importer Note “Boulay’s parcel in “La Grande Côte,” which is partially owned and partically rented, is one of three designated Crus of Chavignol and is reputed for producing wines of incredible precision. Vintage 2010 was the inaugural release. Overall, Gerard Boulay’s “terre blanche” vineyards produce some of the most distinctive and soil-inflected Sauvignon Blancs in the Loire, with a delineation and minerality often reminiscent of a top Chablis. Boulay is certainly among the top examples of the appellation, including Boulay’s neighbors (Cotat Bros., Vatan). These are gorgeous, highly complex wines that are a clear step above “regular” Sancerre, and can age easily for 10-20 years or more. In fact, we have had them all the way back to the 1959 which was magnificent! They confirm Boulay’s place in the top ranks of Loire Valley vignerons. (referred to by the Cotat brothers as La Grande Cote)”
The average listed price is $57
Importer Note “One of Chavignol’s most historic vineyards, Boulay’s parcel lies within the original Clos of the vineyard, established by the monks of Beaujeu in the Middle Ages. The walls of the Clos are no longer standing as they were originally built from clay and hay, and did not withstand the test of time. Boulay farms a 0.75 hectares plot of 30- to 60-year old vins where the soils are pebbly, lime-rich and strewn with fossils. Along with the 60% gradient for much of the vineyard, the rocky soils make this parcel very difficult to farm. Clos de Beaujeu is the source of some of Boulay’s deepest, most structured wines and savory, spicy examples of Chavignol that are built to last.”
The average listed price is $50
Importer Note “Boulay began farming the steeply sloped Mont Damnés vineyard in 1982. His plot has an average vine age of 45 years. Mont Damnés’ reflective soils and south-facing exposition make it one of Chavignol’s warmest sites. Overall, Gerard Boulay’s “terre blanche” vineyards produce some of the most distinctive and soil-inflected Sauvignon Blancs in the Loire, with a delineation and minerality often reminiscent of a top Chablis. Boulay is certainly among the top examples of the appellation, including Boulay’s neighbors (Cotat Bros., Vatan). These are gorgeous, highly complex wines that are a clear step above “regular” Sancerre, and can age easily for 10-20 years or more. In fact, we have had them all the way back to the 1959 which was magnificent! They confirm Boulay’s place in the top ranks of Loire Valley vignerons.”
The average listed price is $51
“No Girls was originally founded as a collaboration between Cayuse Vineyards’ owner and vigneron Christophe Baron and general manager Trevor Dorland. Since the No Girls Project was launched, the wines have earned routinely high accolades, with Wine Spectator calling the 2009 vintage “some of the best Washington wines ever rated” by the magazine.
“The name No Girls represents an appreciative nod to the 1950s and 60s—one of Walla Walla’s richest and most colorful eras. It’s a celebration of our history, with very specific roots in one of downtown’s most storied landmarks.
“The grapes come from the Cayuse La Paciencia vineyard, which means patience—appropriate since the project was ten years in the making. The vines are tightly spaced and planted on an angle, giving No Girls a personality all its own, and the wines are focused and pure. These are food friendly creations that eloquently express the rocky terroir from which they spring.
“Christophe Baron and Cayuse Vineyards’ assistant vigneron Elizabeth Bourcier have worked together since the first release of No Girls in 2008, developing a style that is a true reflection of the uniqueness and character of the La Paciencia Vineyard. Elizabeth took over sole wine studio responsibility for the project with the 2011 vintage.” – Winery Notes
In Stock Now:
Just five bottles available
No Girls La Placiencia Vineyard Grenache, Walla Walla Valley 2015 750ML ($149.95) $128 special
Wine Advocate 96 points “The 2015 Grenache la Paciencia Vineyard was showing very well indeed, wafting from the glass with a complex aromatic mélange of garrigue, wild strawberries, peony and balsam bough. On the palate, the wine is pure, voluptuous and expansive, with wonderfully silky structure and a layered core of succulent fruit, concluding with a long, tangy finish. Beautifully balanced and amazingly texturally finessed, this is a fabulous Grenache from Elizabeth Bourcier.”
Jeb Dunnuck 96 points “Starting with the 2015 Grenache La Paciencia from bottle, this brilliant wine tastes like a Chambolle-Musigny mixed with a Châteauneuf du Pape from Rayas! Strawberries, raspberry liqueur, green olive, and floral notes all flow to a medium-bodied, ethereally textured, beautiful Grenache that has plenty of intensity, yet just dances on the palate with no weight or heaviness. Enjoy this elixir over the coming 7-8 years. ”
The next best price is $139.99
Just five bottles available
No Girls La Placiencia Vineyard Tempranillo, Walla Walla Valley 2015 750ML ($149.95) $119 special
Jeb Dunnuck 97 points “Lastly, the 2015 Tempranillo La Paciencia offers ample cedarwood, bloody meat, blackcurrants, and violets aromatics in a rich, full-bodied, beautifully layered package. It carries the most weight and depth of the cuvées from Boucier, as well as tannin, yet it’s already impossible to resist. Drink this beauty anytime over the coming 10-15 years.”
Wine Advocate 94 points “Offering up aromas of cassis, dried berries, candied peel, panforte, raw cocoa and baked earth, the 2015 Tempranillo la Paciencia has already integrated its 30% new oak. On the palate, it’s full-bodied, seamless and layered, with a deep core of savory fruit and a structuring chassis of rich, fine-grained tannins and a mouthwateringly stony finish.”
Just two bottles available
No Girls La Placiencia Vineyard Syrah, Walla Walla Valley 2015 750ML ($149.95) $128 special
James Suckling 98 points “This offers attractive complexity and interest, plenty of savory spices and fresh meaty appeal. Lots of pepper and red plum fruit here. The palate has a smooth-honed, silky feel with bright, spice-wrapped red plum fruit. Long and silky, beautifully rendered syrah with lots of interest. Really focused, this is a benchmark. Drink or hold.”
Wine Advocate 96+ points “The 2015 Syrah la Paciencia Vineyard is very impressive, unfurling in the glass with a wonderfully savory bouquet of tapenade, dark chocolate, bresaola, cassis, currant leaf, potpourri and mandarin oil. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, layered and complete, but it’s quite serious and tight-knit despite its structural refinement and will certainly reward patience. Pure and complete, it concludes with a long, sapid finish.”
Jeb Dunnuck 96 points “The 2015 Syrah La Paciencia Vineyard is just slightly darker in color than the Grenache (not by much) and offers more blackberry, peppery meats, ground herbs, and smoke. Beautifully textured, medium to full-bodied, seamless, and with building minerality, it’s another singular wine from this estate that will continue drinking nicely for a decade.”
The next best price is $139.99
Paolo Bea is an iconic producer—a virtual one-winery symbol of Umbrian wine and it’s potential. No winery in the region produces wines as profound, interesting and delicious as the Italian masters (son Giampero is the winemaker these days).
If you’ve had these before, keep scrolling to check out the new releases—if not, pay attention. These are wines that capture the wildness of Umbrian wine and its signature grape, Sagrantino, in a way that captivates even the most jaded palates. They’re naturally made, but have classical proportions, with an almost savage ferocity to the flavors (and in the Sagrantino, the tannins as well). They’ve become quite hard to acquire in recent years (we guess the word’s gotten out), but we have some of the new wines arriving on Friday.
Arriving Friday:
Paolo Bea Pagliaro Secco, Sagrantino di Montefalco DOCG 2012 750ML ($109.95) $89 pre-arrival special
Importer Note “The fabled local grape of Montefalco is the Sagrantino and the Pagliaro vineyard, situated at 1300 feet in altitude, is dedicated in large part to this grape variety. The harvest of Sagrantino normally occurs during the second half of October. The cuvaison extends for forty to fifty days. The wines is then aged for one year in stainless steel, another two years in large Slavonian oak barrels and, finally, spends one more year in bottle (the wine, like all Bea wines, is unfiltered) before release. Annual production from the Pagliaro vineyard is 15,000 to 20,000 bottles.”
The next best price is $94.99
The average listed price is $99
Importer Note “This wine is sourced from the San Valentino vineyard in Montefalco the soil of which is dominated by clay. The vineyard is at 1300 feet altitude. The composition of the Montefalco Rosso is 70% Sangiovese, 15% Sagrantino and 15% Montepulciano, all from a 50-year old vineyard containing the constituent grapes. Harvest usually occurs in the final ten days of October. Bea puts all the dry reds through extensive cuvaison. In this instance, the wine usually macerates for approximately 30 days before being racked and prepared for the malolactic fermentation. The wine is aged for 3 years in stainless steel and an additional 4 to 12 months in bottle before release.”
This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast today!
Importer Note “Arboreus, Umbria Bianco Arboreus: is made from a Trebbiano clone known as Trebbiano Spoletino which is trained so that the fruit hangs high above the ground. The vineyards are planted in the low hills between Trevi and Montefalco at an elevation of 650 to 700 feet with a range of parcels facing both to the east and to the southwest. The soil is essentially clay and gravel. Harvest generally occurs during the first two weeks of October. The wine is left in contact with the skins for up to three weeks or more and is then aged in stainless steel tanks for at least two years prior to bottling. Sulfur is never added. Annual production is in the range of 3000 bottles.”
Villa Symposia Pezenas L’origine, Languedoc 2013 750ML ($39.95) $33 special
Wine Advocate 93 points “The terrific 2013 Pézenas l’Origine shows the hallmark spice-laced perfume of this appellation. Lots of red fruits, crushed flowers, spice and violet nuances give way to a medium-bodied, elegant and sweetly fruited 2013 that has fine tannin and a seamless, sexy texture. Drink this beauty anytime over the coming 5-6 years.”
Domaine Aurelien Verdet Aux Boudots, Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru 2010 750ML ($99.95) $79 special
Wine Spectator 92 points “Shows some reduction on the nose, but otherwise features rich cherry, pomegranate and mineral flavors. Firm and juicy, with a long finish of berries and mineral. Best from 2015 through 2032. 75 cases imported.”
Grochau Cellars Zenith Vineyard Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills 2013 750ML ($47.95) $28 special
Josh Raynolds – Vinous 93 points “Brilliant red. Powerful, spice-accented cherry and raspberry aromas are complemented by hints of candied rose, anise and smoky minerals. Sweet and focused on the palate, offering intense red and dark berry and spicecake flavors and a strong suggestion of floral pastilles. Rich yet lithe in the style, this elegant Pinot finishes with powerful, spicy thrust and silky, slow-building tannins that contribute shape and grip.”
Alta Mora ‘Guradiola’ Etna Rosso, Sicily 2014 750ML ($59.95) $49 special
James Suckling 96 points “The crystal-clear nose of jasmine, slate, quartz, wild strawberries, blueberries and tons of orange rind, not to mention chocolate shavings and walnuts, is stunning. The full-bodied palate is expansive and fruit-forward yet so minerally and uplifted by a fresh line of acidity that culminates in a long finish. Tight and refined in terms of tannin texture. So good now but better in 2019.”
Wine Advocate 95+ points “The 2014 Etna Rosso Guardiola is a wine of unique beauty and character. Having seen this stunning vineyard in person and climbed its steep ascent on the flank of the volcano, I am immediately reminded of the warm smells that come from these sun-scorched soils and the wild herbal notes that come off the scrub brush that grows in this harsh, otherworldly environment. This wine offers an immediate sense of place. The bouquet is elegant, almost ephemeral at first. It grows exponentially in intensity and complexity as the wine takes on more air in the glass. Give it the time it merits. Tangy acidity and sour cherry keep the palate very much alive. Congratulations to Cusumano of Alta Mora for this authentic taste of Etna inspiration. Only 5,310 bottles were made. Fruit comes from a three-hectare vineyard with 120-year-old vines.”-ML
Castell’in Villa Santacroce Toscana IGT 2004 750ML ($119.95) $99 special
Antonio Galloni 93 points “[Reviewed Jun 2012] The 2004 Santacroce is silky, layered and impeccably balanced. Sweet red roses, red berries and spices are all woven together beautifully in this refined, expressive wine. This is a lovely showing. The 2004 captures the essence of the 2004 vintage in a relatively soft, supple style built for near and mid-term enjoyment.”
Markus Molitor Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Spatlese Trocken (White Kap), Mosel 2016 750ML ($34.95) $27 special
Wine Advocate 93 points “The 2016 Riesling Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Spätlese (White Capsule) is clear, fresh and precise on the nose where a ripe, concentrated and spicy white fruit aroma is displayed and intermixed with crystalline and crunchy slate flavors. On the palate, the Bockstein reveals lush, concentrated, very elegant and mineral structured fruit that is terribly precise and piquant. The finish is pure, clean, intense and persistently salty, again showing crunchy slate flavors. The wine was bottled in September 2017. Tasted in March 2018.”
Stuart Pigott-jamessuckling.com 93 points “Full of blossoms and citrusy freshness. This Saar wine is so juicy and refreshing that you might think it is too charming, but it has a firm and mineral core that builds up at the long finish. Drink or hold.”
Goodfellow Family Cellars Richard’s Cuvee Chardonnay, Oregon 2014 375ML ($24.95) $20.90 special
Half-bottle (375ml)
Wine Advocate 95 points “The 2014 Chardonnay Richard’s Cuvee knocks it out of the park with a nose of ripe apricots, pink grapefruit and guava underscored by fresh ginger, baking bread, beeswax and yeast extract hints with a waft of jasmine. Medium-bodied, the palate is very elegant and refined, with incredible freshness and depth wrapped in a lovely satiny texture, finishing with long lasting mineral and spices layers. Wow!”-LPB
Winery note “Dry-farmed chardonnay from a 1-acre parcel at Whistling Ridge, hand-picked, whole-cluster pressed. After a brief period settling the wine is racked into large French oak vessels. Fermentation and elevage lasts about 21 months on the gross lees. The shallow marine sediment soils and windy environs at Whistling Ridge produce a Chardonnay that is mineral, deep and long with chalky citrus fruit.”
Casarena Owen’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Agrelo 2015 750ML ($31.95) $26 special
Case-12 Casarena Owen’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Agrelo 2015 750ML ($359.95) $279 special (that’s only $23.25/bottle—the lowest listed price in the USA today!)
Wine Advocate 94 points “Tasted side by side with the 2014, the 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon Owen’s Vineyard feels a lot fresher. This is an old, balanced, traditional vineyard that yields wines with very good depth and natural balance. There is perfect ripeness here and a notable absence of those green pepper aromas that often mask the personality of many Cabernets. These old vines yield very concentrated juice and it shows in the tannins and acidity, which show in perfect harmony. 30,000 bottles produced.”
Staff Pick
A Beautiful Spring White
“I have a short list of favorites for early spring whites, and had to add another to the list this week. I wanted to jump into something a little different from the old standbys of Muscadet, Gruner Veltliner, or Chablis. The Jean Masson La Dechiree sounded like it would fit the bill nicely; crisp, herbal, light. The Dechiree did not disappoint with the herbal notes of thyme and mint. It also had lovely tangerine citrus scents and a surprisingly long finish. It was crunchy with minerals yet broad enough across the palate to feel like there was more to follow. As it came up to temperature the aromas continued to gain in intensity and the creamy texture was very enjoyable. I wish I’d thought out a better dinner to pair this with, but in the end it didn’t matter; simply a perfect little white for a cool Portland night. It was definitely a step up from any Apremont than I have had in the past. Jean Masson is known as a star in the region, and having access to these wines certainly makes me want to get into the Coeur d’Apremont and the Centenaire to see how aromatic Jacquere can be.”Domaine Jean Masson & Fils Savoie Apremont La Dechiree 2017 750ML ($29.95) $21.90 special
Importer note “Shows high acidity with a long finish. The interesting minerality intertwines with notes of tarragon, verbena and orange.”
Winery note “[Translated] A very atypical wine, the Dechiree comes from a hill at the highest point in Apremont. The vineyard is surrounded by brambles (mulberry and raspberry), and the vines offer a powerful wine with a cascade of complex and pronounced aromas. This wine has a nice minerality highlighted by a rich texture. It pairs well with fish in a cream sauce, roasted poultry and lobster.”
This is the only listing in the country!
Every wine region in the world has one or two estates that immediately come to mind when you hear the name of the region. Chateau Margaux in Margaux, Romanee-Conti in Vosne-Romanee, and Donnhoff in the Nahe and Muller-Catoir occupies that space in the Pfalz in Germany. A historic name that continues to make excellent wines, these are some of the finest in Germany and from a vintage that’s one of the best in years.
The Pfalz is a unique region in Germany in that wineries there focused on powerful dry wines long before it was fashionable to do so in the rest of the country. The wines we’re highlighting today are dry and are some of the best values in the world for breathtakingly mineral wines. Muller-Catoir owns some of the best vineyards in the region and has a special touch with them.
From grand, aristocratic Riesling to wild and exciting Scheurebe to the best Pinot Blanc (Weisburgunder) in the world, Muller-Catoir’s wines are top of the class in every category—and excellent value as well. 2017 was an exceptional vintage, even by recent German standards, and the wines are powerful, focused and intense—the perfect sort of year for the Pfalz. These arrive tomorrow and then later in the month, perfect for spring drinking or a sleep in the cellar.
Just Arrived, In stock Now:
Muller-Catoir Haardter Burgergarten ‘Im Breumel’ Riesling Grosses Gewachs, Pfalz 2017 750ML ($59.95) $45 special
Stuart Pigott – jamessuckling.com 98 points “Stand back for the arrival of a giant! Super-fresh nectarine, vanilla and Thai-basil aromas that don’t leave you in any doubt that this is a very remarkable dry riesling. Then the tidal wave of minerality comes through at the finish and sweeps everything away. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.”
Wine Spectator 94 points “Extremely elegant and precisely crafted, with notes of star anise and lavender framing the core of crunchy pear and blood orange flavors. The acidity is appreciable, fueling the flavors and spice accents. Savory mineral details linger on the finish. Best from 2021 through 2031.”
Terry Theise note “A eucalyptus angularity and a chile-thread bite-not heat, as it only has 13% abv, but simply expressiveness. It’s rather a wild ride, not (at least now) ‘elegant’ but splashy and energetic; not quite ‘mineral’ but rocky, a clamber up a rocky chute in a bearclaw scratch landscape. It’s a departure for this wine, which has always been more comme il faut.”
The next best price is $67.67
The average listed price is $72
Stuart Pigott – jamessuckling.com 94 points ” Effusive aromas of apricots and lemon zest with hints of summer flowers. At once succulent, graceful and finely nuanced on the palate, then very long and filigree at the finish. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.”
Stuart Pigott – jamessuckling.com 94 points “A stunning, bone-dry riesling for this moderate price level! Fine nose of sliced pears and honeysuckle. Stunning freshness and purity on the medium-full palate. The finish is subtlety reminiscent of Mosel. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.”
Terry Theise note “‘Haardt’ is the village wine. And quite the wine it is; dense and salty, an excellent Pfalz Riesling and an atypical Catoir wine, more suede than silk, but generous and solid and pineappley.”
The next best price is $29.99
Stuart Pigott – jamessuckling.com 95 points “Why drink a dry white called scheurebe? Here’s the answer. An enormously complex nose of grapefruit, cassis and pineapple, then breathtaking purity and elegance on the palate and a totally uplifting and super-long finish. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.”
Terry Theise note “Over 50-year vines now, and this is outsized Scheu, dense and grand, spiciness to the intersection of space and time; salty and regal, and in its delightfully gnarly way gorgeous, erecting a megalith on your palate. Forget spitting; you can’t get rid of it.”
The next best price is $58.50
That’s a difference of over $25 per bottle!
Stuart Pigott – jamessuckling.com 93 points “Very creamy and silky, but without a hint of fat, this is a very polished pinot blanc with underplayed power. Delicate white-peach and pear aromas. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.”
Stuart Pigott – jamessuckling.com 95 points
“Stunning nectarine, peach and papaya character, together with lovely succulence and enormous vitality, make this a breathtaking sweet Spätlese with a finish that’s straight as a laser beam and super-clean. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.”
Stuart Pigott – jamessuckling.com 93 points “Ripe white and yellow peaches and just enough acidity to lift the medium-full body and give the long finish some real drive. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.”
Stuart Pigott – jamessuckling.com 92 points “Wonderful pink-grapefruit and muscat nose that bowls you over. So joyful and really rather subtle for a seriously aromatic grape variety. Very bright finish. From organically grown grapes. Drink now.”
Terry Theise note “I’ve often said you have to go to the Grand Cru Goldert from ZH to fins a Muscat equal to Catoir’s, but lately the Alsace wine’s been flirting with overripeness, while the Catoir never does. Clearly I adore Muscat, but if it has a claim to stake on greatness, this is where. The ’17 is clean, brisk, shimmering, salty and gigglesome. Forget the sleek salty substance; just suck on the Thai-basil leaf while you wiggle your toes….”
The next best price is $35.77
Stuart Pigott – jamessuckling.com 93 points “The whiff of smoke gives the cassis nose of this wine an extra dimension. Concentrated and racy with a dangerous amount of energy. So juicy and vibrant with a long and very clean finish. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.”
Terry Theise note “A gooseberry note feints towards Sauvignon Blanc but pink grapefruit pulls it back; finely angular, with a sort of woodruff-like charred-leaf thing; obdurate length; the finish is like the embers of a campfire in your mouth.”
Stuart Pigott – jamessuckling.com 95 points “All the heads turned when this beauty walked into the room. Ripe and fresh, deep yet very clean and delicate, this is a superb pinot blanc. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.”
A Fantastic Cotes du Rhone
From the President of Latour
While Fontboneau isn’t the oldest estate in the Rhone (or close, by any measure) it makes up for its lack of history with sheer star power. Childhood friends Jerome Malet (now an important Roussillon negociant) and Frederic Engerer (President of Chateau Latour and GM of Araujo, Ch. Grillet, etc) took over the 42 acre property in 2008 and have very quickly brought it to the highest heights of the Rhone. While only in the Cotes du Rhone AOC, the partners have aspirations of challenging Gigondas or Vaqueyras in quality (and one presumes pricing, eventually). At the moment, this remains one of the best deals in Rhone wine out there, with structure and intensity that don’t match the price tag or the names behind the winery.
In Stock Now:
Domaine de Fontbonau Cotes du Rhone Rouge, Rhone 2010 750ML ($27.95) $18 special
Case-6 Domaine de Fontbonau Cotes du Rhone Rouge, Rhone 2010 750ML ($149.95) $99 special (that’s only $16.50/bottle!)
Case-12 Domaine de Fontbonau Cotes du Rhone Rouge, Rhone 2010 750ML ($279.95) $179 special (that’s only $14.92/bottle!)
Wine Advocate 91+ points “Medium garnet-purple colored, the nose is of warm berries, black cherry compote and dried Provence herb aromas with hints of cumin seed, cardamom and violets. Full, opulent and seductive on the palate, it is superbly structured with a nice acid backbone and a medium to firm level of very finely grained tannins, finishing long and spicy. Delicious now, it should develop beautifully to 2020+.”
The next best price is $20.99
The Most Exciting Spanish Wines We’ve Tasted?
The Beautiful Montsant Wines of Vinyes D’en Gabriel
Perhaps no winery epitomizes the promise of the new Montsant like Vinyes D’en Gabriel. Farmed without chemicals, these vineyards (up to 150 years old!) contain a mix of Samsó (Carignan), Garnacha and Syrah and the resulting wines are all varied and distinctive. From the low to the high end, these wines captivated us like few others we’ve tasted recently.
Montsant is a great undiscovered land for lovers of Spanish wines. Based in the mountains just southwest of Barcelona, the DO forms a ring around the more famous Priorat. Despite its more famous neighbor and proximity to a major city, Montsant remains an area where aspiring vintners can still afford land studded with old vines—and that’s what makes it one of the hottest regions in the world of Spanish wine. Those old vines, combined with unique soils, produce wines that are singular in Spain and at prices that are imminently reasonable for their quality.
Although close to Priorat, Montsant’s soils are radically different—limestone and clay to Priorat’s shiste and slate. As a result, the best wines of Montsant have a nearly Burgundian feel to them—the acidity and precision of flavors mirrors those legendary French wines born of similar soils. This being Spain, though, there’s a warmth and generosity to the flavors that’s unmistakable.
We just purchased a bunch of wines from Vinyes D’en Gabriel, across their entire range. The number of different wines we brought in should tell you how exemplary these are, especially for their prices. We’d recommend ordering a varied selection of their wines to get a sense of the varying styles and profiles the wines can carry and go from there!
In Stock Now:
Vinyes D’en Gabriel Plan Elle Carignane, Montsant 2014 750ML ($41.95) $36 special
VinopolNote: 100% Samso (the Catalan word for Carignan). This is richer and denser than you’d expect from the grape, though it still has all of that trademark lift and brightness. This is sourced from some of the oldest vines in the property, in a mix of clay, sandy and limestone soils and aged in a variety of barrel sizes before bottling.
VinopolNote: The “Finesse” and “Secret” bottlings are a fascinating pair. Produced from two sides of the same high-elevation vineyard that is planted to 100% Garnatxa. The “Finesse” comes from a section with limestone soils and is brighter, with a floral lift and delicacy that you’d associate with that terroir. The “Secret” bottling comes from a section of the vineyard that is predominantly red (volcanic) clay and has more power, body and a gamey quality that’s unique. Both are delicious and exceptional values.
VinopolNote: The “Finesse” and “Secret” bottlings are a fascinating pair. Produced from two sides of the same high-elevation vineyard that is planted to 100% Garnatxa. The “Finesse” comes from a section with limestone soils and is brighter, with a floral lift and delicacy that you’d associate with that terroir. The “Secret” bottling comes from a section of the vineyard that is predominantly red (volcanic) clay and has more power, body and a gamey quality that’s unique. Both are delicious and exceptional values.
Winery note “50% Garnatxa from 80 year old vines, 50% Samso (Carignan) from 70 year old vines. L’Heravi Criança is a rich, deep cherry red with hints of violet at the rim. On the nose it is complex and refined, a blend of red fruit and wild flowers, surrounded by subtle spice and mineral notes that evoke the land from which it is produced. In the mouth it is approachable and elegant, with a good tannic structure giving it depth. The finish is long and freshly aromatic. It will continue to display its qualities over the next ten years and more.”
Winery note “Brilliant intense colour with shades of violet indicating long life, with an intense nose in which the montsant terroir predominates. Presence of balsamic aromas from pine trees to honeycomb, touches of liquorice, mineral notes, aniseed with hints of fennel, cherry. In the mouth it is seductively moreish, full-bodied and well structured. The retronasal perception is of great aromatic complexity, with mineral notes alongside preserved fruit and fruits of the forest.”
Case-12 Vinyes d’en Gabriel L’Heravi, Montsant 2017 750ML ($219.95) $169 special (that’s only $14.08/bottle!)
Winery note “L’Heravi Joven is seductive, a rich cherry colour with hints of purple. It has a potent bouquet, with notes of red fruit, wild herbs and just a touch of sweet confectionery. In the mouth it is smooth and elegant, with intense flavours accompanied by freshness and nicely integrated tannins. It will continue to display its qualities over the next 3 years or so.”
This is the only listing in the USA today!
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