Midweek VinopolPick 6-2-20

In Today’s Newsletter:


First Offer
The Iconic Hubert Lignier’s 2017’s


Staff Pick: Two Budget Friendly Bubbles

Trending

Remelluri’s Magic Rioja

Sicily’s Nearly Lost, Great Underrated Grape

Krug 2004: Grace Under Glass

Two Icons of Priorat
Clos Erasmus and Familia Nin-Ortiz


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First Offer

The Iconic Hubert Lignier’s 2017’s

Hubert Lignier is one of the finest names in Burgundy.  The wines have been a core of the Neal Rosenthal portfolio since the 1978 vintage and have always been one of the jewels of the portfolio.  These are some of the defining wines of Morey-St. Denis, different from Dujac stylistically but no less important or profound.

We have the 2017 vintage arriving next month—a fantastic and charming year across Burgundy and the wines chez Lignier are no exception.  These promise to be amongst the best wines of the vintage, per usual, and the standard for 2017 is very high.  If you’re already familiar with these wines, just click here to head straight through to a list on our website.  If you aren’t you should browse below and make sure to try a bottle or two.

“Hubert and Laurent Lignier make a fantastic father-and-son team. Hubert Lignier, now in his 80s, seems to be working just as hard as ever, the male equivalent of Lalou Bize-Leroy, but without the weekend mountain climbing and yapping dogs. They are both indefatigable winemakers. Laurent Lignier guided the ship through choppy waters a decade ago following the untimely passing of Hubert’s son Romain, and with an expanded portfolio that includes various fermages and métayages, this has become one of my lengthiest tastings….

“Hubert Lignier has rapidly become one of the most dependable producers in Morey-Saint-Denis. I sometimes feared that such expansion across so many different vineyards and appellations might stretch Laurent and Hubert too much, and yet year after year they maintain quality control. There are several wines to mention. At the heart of their range is their Morey-Saint-Denis Premier Crus, and although the single-vineyards are tempting, I consistently find their Morey-Saint-Denis Vieilles Vignes 1er Cru on the money, thanks to old vines that suffer millerandage and concentrate the berries. If you do insist on your Morey-Saint-Denis affixed to a specific vineyard, then look no further than their excellent Les Chaffots, courtesy of vines up to 90 years old. Throughout their range, one can see assiduous use of whole bunch addition: adding judiciously where necessary, de-stemming in total if that is what they feel is best. Nothing here is done by rote.

“The jewel in the crown is their single hectare of 50- to 60-year-old vines in Clos de la Roche, split between 0.62 hectares in Monts Luisants and 0.28 hectares in Les Fremieres. Occasionally it can be a contender for the best wine in the Côte de Nuits, and though the 2017 growing season probably means that it does not rank alongside the 2015 or 2016, it is still a very impressive wine, amongst the finest from this Grand Cru.” – Neal Martin,
Vinous

“Laurent Lignier has once again produced a fine vintage for both his domaine holdings and négociant sources—the latter, amounting to some 3.5 hectares of vines, now clearly distinguished in our reviews. As readers will know, winemaking is pretty classical at this address, with a short cold maceration, two to three weeks’ maceration with one pigéage and one rémontage per day, and maturation in barrels, some third of which are new—if possible, without racking—for fully 22 months. Lignier began picking on September 4 and finished eight days later, reporting finished alcohols which, with only a couple of exceptions, are below 14%. The two pieces of news are the Lignier is now certified organic since May 2019, and that he is producing a new cuvée of Clos de la Roche, the story of which is told in the accompanying tasting notes.” –William Kelley, Wine Advocate


Highlights, Arriving ETA July

“can be a contender for the best wine in the Côte de Nuits” – Neal Martin, Vinous
Only six bottles, one magnum available
Domaine Hubert Lignier Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, Cote de Nuits 2017 750ML ($599.95) $499 pre-arrival special
Domaine Hubert Lignier Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, Cote de Nuits 2017 1.5L ($1199.95) $999 pre-arrival special
William Kelley – Wine Advocate 95-97 points
“The king of the cellar, Lignier’s 2017 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru is superb, wafting from the glass with a complex bouquet of red and black cherries, cassis, warm spices, incense and grilled game bird. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, layered and complete with striking depth and dimension, rich but satiny structuring tannins and excellent structural tension at the core, concluding with a long and penetrating finish. It’s a magical wine that will merit ardent pursuit when it’s released next year.”
Neal Martin – Vinous 93-95 points “The 2017 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru has a complex, engaging bouquet of ample black and red fruit, candied orange peel and light rose petal aromas that gently unfold in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannin, quite Clos Saint-Denis in style. The masculine, uncharacteristically stoic finish suggests it has longevity in mind. For those with the intention to cellar only. Impressive, but I am expecting more charm to manifest with the requisite bottle age.”

This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast today!
This is the only listing for a magnum in the USA today!

Only three bottles available
Domaine Hubert Lignier Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru, Cote de Nuits 2017 750ML ($419.95) $379 pre-arrival special
Neal Martin – Vinous 92-94 points
“The 2017 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru includes 20% whole bunches, matured in one-third new oak. It has a gorgeous bouquet of cranberry and raspberry fruit with veins of cassis; later, brown spices emerge. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin, good depth and fine grip, perhaps just missing a little precision toward the finish but still very fine.”
Burghound 91-93 points “An agreeably discreet application of wood sets off the attractively fresh and markedly floral aromas of black cherry, plum and abundant earth scents. There is a subtle minerality and vibrancy to the sleek and intense middle weight flavors that possess a caressing mouthfeel that contrasts somewhat with a mildly austere finale that exhibits fine depth and persistence. This is both stylish and pretty and like the Griotte, could be approached with pleasure on the younger side if that’s your preference.”

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

Only three bottles available
Domaine Hubert Lignier Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru, Cote de Nuits 2017 750ML ($699.95) $599 pre-arrival special
Burghound 91-93 points
“There is much more moderate oak influence framing the cool and perfumed nose that offers up essence of various red berries and floral nuances along with a hint of the sauvage. The well-detailed and solidly concentrated flavors possess fine size and weight as well as plenty of sleek muscle and minerality on the stylish and classy finish. This is built to age yet it’s not so structured that it couldn’t be approached after a few years of bottle age.”
Neal Martin – Vinous 91-93 points “The 2017 Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru comes from purchased fruit. It has a well-defined bouquet of blackberry, raspberry coulis and light cassis aromas, and the one-third new oak is neatly integrated. The fleshy, generous palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin and fine acidity, leading to a smooth, sensual finish. This might be earlier-drinking than Lignier’s other two Grand Crus.”

This is the only listing in the USA today!

Only six bottles available
Domaine Hubert Lignier Morey-Saint-Denis Premier Cru Vieilles Vignes, Cote de Nuits 2017 750ml ($299.95) $299.95) $249 pre-arrival special
William Kelley – Wine Advocate 92-94+ points
“The 2017 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Vieilles Vignes is superb, wafting from the glass with a complex bouquet of warm spices, raspberries, cherries, dark chocolate and candied peel. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, layered and textural, with the most depth and dimension of Lignier’s premiers crus, its deep core of fruit largely concealing the wine’s fine-grained structuring tannins, concluding with a saline finish. This cuvée hails from a parcel that straddles the climats Faconnières and Chenevery that was planted in 1936, 1942 and 1943, and which the Lignier family has always vinified as a single cuvée.”
Neal Martin – Vinous 91-93 points “The 2017 Morey-Saint-Denis Vieilles Vignes 1er Cru includes 25% whole bunch fruit. It has a tightly wound bouquet that opens in confident style to reveal red cherries, strawberry and fine mineralité. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, quite airy in style, but then suddenly exerts fine grip on the persistent, chalky-textured finish. Excellent.”

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
The next best price is $305

Only three bottles available
Domaine Hubert Lignier Les Chaffots, Morey-Saint-Denis Premier Cru, 2017 750ML ($219.95) $179 pre-arrival special
Neal Martin – Vinous 91-93 points
“The 2017 Morey-Saint-Denis Les Chaffots 1er Cru, from vines up to 90 years old, has a refined, quite floral bouquet, scents of peony tincturing the red fruit. The sorbet-fresh palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, a citric line of acidity and a harmonious, elegant finish. Bon vin.”
William Kelley – Wine Advocate 91-93 points “The 2017 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Les Chaffots reveals aromas of sweet cassis and cherries that mingle with nuances of cinnamon, licorice, dark chocolate and nori. On the palate, it’s medium to full-bodied, layered and tangy, with a tauter, more acid-driven profile than the other premiers crus by virtue of its higher-altitude locate, displaying excellent concentration and high-quality structuring tannin.”

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

Only three bottles available
Domaine Hubert Lignier La Riotte, Morey St Denis Premier Cru 2017 750ML ($249.95) $199 pre-arrival special
William Kelley – Wine Advocate 90-93 points
“The supplest, most open-knit of Lignier’s premiers crus from Morey, the 2017 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru La Riotte bursts with aromas of plummy fruit, red currants, subtle spices and rose hip. On the palate, it’s medium to full-bodied, supple and expansive, with a layered mid-palate, fine but chalky tannins and a saline finish. This will win friends in its youth.”
Neal Martin – Vinous 90-92 points “The 2017 Morey-Saint-Denis La Riotte is aged in one-third new oak and includes 20% whole bunches. It has an expressive bouquet with touches of mint that infuse the vibrant red fruit. The dense, fresh palate is medium-bodied with gentle grip on the entry and hints of sour cherry toward the edgy finish. Good potential here.”

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

Only twelve bottles available
Domaine Hubert Lignier Morey-Saint-Denis Trilogie, Cote de Nuits 2017 750ML ($149.95) $119 pre-arrival special
Neal Martin – Vinous 90-92 points
“The 2017 Morey-Saint-Denis “Trilogie,” which includes 25% whole bunch fruit from vines that tend to suffer millerandage, offers vivacious dark cherry and raspberry coulis scents on the nose. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin, a fine bead of acidity, good focus and a mineral-infused finish that delivers a pleasant sour edginess. Excellent.”
William Kelley – Wine Advocate 89-91 points “The 2017 Morey-Saint-Denis “Trilogie” hails from three lieux-dits, this year working out at around 60% Chenevery, 30% Porroux and 15% Clos Solon, and it was vinified with 25% whole cluster. Offering up aromas of sweet berries, cassis, licorice, cinnamon and chocolate, it’s medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered with a rich but lively core of fruit and fine but chalky structuring tannins. As usual, it’s one of the finest renditions of the appellation.”

Only three bottles available
Domaine Hubert Lignier Les Chabiots, Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru 2017 750ML ($299.95) $249 pre-arrival special
Rosenthal Note
““Les Chabiots” is a dreamily situated premier cru that lies just north of Musigny, perched just above the fabled “Les Amoureuses” on the slope in the southern sector of Chambolle. Hubert and Laurent began purchasing grapes from a parcel of 20-year-old vines here during their recent inheritance battle, and they have continued to produce wine from this great but tiny cru ever since. The wine is intoxicatingly ethereal on the nose—open, enveloping, and inviting. The palate is round but well structured, with generous, sappy fruit, and a hedonistically succulent finish.”

This is the only listing in the USA today!

Domaine Hubert Lignier Gevrey-Chambertin Les Seuvrees, Cote de Nuits 2017 750ML ($119.95) $99 pre-arrival special
Domaine Hubert Lignier Gevrey-Chambertin Les Seuvrees, Cote de Nuits 2017 1.5L ($269.95) $219 pre-arrival special
Neal Martin – Vinous 89-91 points
“The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Seuvrées contains around 20% whole bunch fruit. It has a fresh, generous bouquet, hints of brown spice infusing the red fruit. The palate is well balanced with sappy red fruit laced with orange peel, quite firm grip in the mouth and a slightly austere finish at the moment. Give this three or four years.”
William Kelley – Wine Advocate 89-91 points “The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Seuvrées is showing very well, unfurling in the glass with suggestions of cassis, raspberries, sweet soil tones and spices. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, ample and nicely concentrated, with good depth at the core and fine-grained but firm, even chalky, structuring tannins. This should evolve well in bottle.”

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
This is the only listing for a magnum in the USA today!

Don’t worry there’s more—too much more to list here
(we have 22 new wines from Lignier arriving next month).
You can see them all (plus a few scattered ’16’s)
in a full list in our webstore.

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Staff Pick

Two Budget Friendly Bubbles


Andy:
My house bubbles are taken care of for the summer: Domaine Brazilier has arrived. This may be my favorite time of year simply because I know that my favorite sub-$20 sparkler is in the shop, in good supply, and will be in my glass by the weekend. Domaine Brazilier is seven generations of skill, hard work and extremely good humor. While the still wines are listed as Couteaux du Vendômois, the sparkling wine is Vin de Pays. You’ll be hard pressed to find a better table wine than these. The rose is pure Pineau d’Aunis, very floral with a crack of white pepper. The mousse is persistent and adds a freshness, but is not as fine as some. It’s easy, accessible and drinks quite well with a wider variety of meals than you might expect. I enjoy this with steak tacos.

The Blanc is Chenin and 1/4 Pineau d’Aunis and will light up your summer seafood selections. We had this with grilled Rockfish that showed off the electric snap of the Chenin. Again, the floral notes are lovely, but there is a light tropical note that comes through clearly and thankfully cleanly. It’s best quality is that it is simply a mouthwatering wine. I used to drink this in Chicago at Sun Wah with the roast duck or the Siu Yook pork. We’ve also had this at the coast for crab boils and oysters. It’s not the most refined bubble you will have this year, but it might be the easiest to justify opening ANY night of the week. Delicious.

In Stock Now:

Domaine Brazilier Methode Trad Brut, Loire NV 750ML ($21.95) $17 special

Chenin/Pineau d’Aunis from 25+ year old vines grown in clay & flint soil.
Winery Note “this quality sparkling wine comes from a long aging process: after fermentation, it spends about 12 months sur lattes to give it its fine bubbles and the subtle and original aromas of this blend.”

Brazilier Methode Trad Brut Rose, Loire NV 750ML ($21.95) $17 special
Pineau d’Aunis from 25+ year old vines grown in chalky limestone soil.
Winery Note “This quality sparkling wine comes from a long aging process: after fermentation, it spends about 12 months sur lattes to give it its fine bubbles and the typical aromas of Pineau d’Aunis such as peony.”

This is the only listing in the USA today!
 
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Vinopolis Wine Shop Curbside Pick Up

Order Online / By Phone / By Email

When you’re ready to pick up, just park in our lot,
give us a call, & we’ll bring your order to your car.


(If another adult is picking up for you,
please let us know their name when placing your order.)

www.vinopoliswineshop.com

info@vinopoliswineshop.com

503-223-6002

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Trending


Excellent Cote de Blancs Champagne that way over delivers for the price.
Diebolt-Vallois Brut Tradition, Champagne NV 750ML ($49.95) $33 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Wine Spectator 91 points
“Bright, with citrusy acidity, this harmonious Champagne offers a creamy mousse and a minerally underpinning layered with flavors of apricot, honeysuckle, salted almond and biscuit. A crowd-pleaser. Drink now through 2020. 125 cases imported.”
 
This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

A great bottle of Chateauneuf at throwback pricing.
Domaine du Vieux Lazaret Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Rhone 2016 750ML ($49.95) $29 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Wine Spectator 93 points
“Ripe and forward in feel, featuring crushed raspberry and blackberry compote notes, mixed with red licorice, blood orange, rooibos tea and fruitcake hints. Silky from start to finish, with a subtle sanguine thread lacing up the finish. Very enticing. Best from 2020 through 2037. 16,000 cases made, 2,000 cases imported.”

This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast!
The average price nationally is $35

Looking for classic/bright Napa Chard (ie Montelena/Mayacamas) at half price? Check this out.
Vie di Romans Chardonnay “Vie di Romans”, Friuli-Venezia Giulia 2017 750ML ($39.95) $28 special, 20 bottles in stock now
James Suckling 93 points
“A medium-bodied white with a solid core of fruit and creamy texture. Dried apricot and apple character throughout. Tangy acidity at the end. Drink now.”

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
The average price is $32

“what Barbaresco is all about.” – Antonio Galloni
Ca’ del Baio Vallegrande, Barbaresco DOCG 2016 750ML ($49.95) $33 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Case-12 Ca’ del Baio Vallegrande, Barbaresco DOCG 2016 750ML ($599.95) $379 special (that’s only $31.58/bottle!)
James Suckling 94 points
“Lots of dried strawberries with watermelon and hints of cherries on the nose and palate. Medium to full body. Firm and silky tannins. Flavorful finish. Drink after 2021.”
Antonio Galloni 93 points “The 2016 Barbaresco Vallegrande is bright and fragrant, with tremendous energy driving the red/purplish berry fruit, spice and floral flavors. Medium in body and finely cut, the 2016 is a model of elegance and finesse. It is easily one of the most polished Barbarescos I have tasted from Ca’ del Baio, and, frankly, what Barbaresco is all about.”

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!
The average price is $43

From vineyards in Brunello, this 100% Sangiovese is a value winner. We’ve joked about doubling the price because it’s hard to convince folks that something this good costs this little. 
La Fortuna Fortunello Rosso Toscana IGT, Tuscany 2017 750ML ($17.95) $14 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
VinopolNote:
A fantastic value, showing pretty varietal notes of red cherries and spice. Moderately rich, savory and expressive.
Winery Note “A wine that first expresses itself through its colour; intense ruby red. Extraordinary via its intensity and absolute pleasure on the palate, vigor, length, freshness and fruity finish. A wine that will improve with age with its scents of raspberry and red berries.”

This is the only listing in the USA today!

Traditional, delicious Bordeaux for under $20.
Chateau de Grandchamp, Montagne-Saint-Emilion 2015 750ML ($24.95) $19.90 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Le Guide Hachette Des Vins 2/3 stars
(Vin Remarquable) “A mountain that exalts the qualities of the 2015 vintage and participated in the final of the favorites. From a blend of hand-harvested Merlot (90%) and Cabernet Franc, Château Grandchamp’s team has extracted a wine that combines power and elegance. The color of the dress is purple with violet, the nose is centered on dark fruits with spicy aromas, the palate is frisky, smooth, fruity, with fine, firm tannins and a long finish. [translated]”
Importer notes “Château de Grandchamp is the only domaine on the hillside overlooking the ancient commune of Parsac, located in the Montagne-Saint-Emilion appellation on the right bank of the Dordogne. Vigneron Gonzague Maurice manually farms Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon in densely planted vineyards rooted in clay-limestone soils with small traces of iron. The vineyard has been in organic conversion since 2010, however grass is sown regularly between vine rows and ploughing is done in alternating rows. Gonzague’s sole objective in the vineyard is to obtain perfectly ripe and clean fruit. Triage is done in both the vineyard and the cellar to ensure the highest quality grapes. In the cellar, grapes are vinified in small, temperature controlled tanks and then aged in a combination of tank and one to two year old barrels. Above all, he seeks to preserve the fruit throughout the fermentation and ageing processes. The resulting wine is aromatically vibrant and beautiful balanced with soft tannins.”
 
This is the only listing on the West Coast!

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Remelluri’s Magic Rioja

Telmo Rondriguez is one of the most talented winemakers in Spain.  Internationally trained, he returned to the family estate, Remelluri, and has taken it to new heights.  Remelluri is in Rioja Alavesa—the smallest part of Rioja which is known for intense, powerful wines and these are no exception.  The soils in their vineyards are exceptionally shallow, creating small berries and greater concentration in the wines and their organic farming and careful cellar work keeps a sense of brightness and energy even in warm vintages.

Remelluri eschews American oak, finding it too overblown, and instead works with only the highest quality French cooperage.  No expense is spared, up and down the line, and these wines are special as a result of that.  Their wines somehow manage the magic trick of being impressive today and capable of aging for decades.  These are some of the landmark wines of Spain and deserve a prominent place in any cellar.


In Stock Now:

Remelluri Gran Reserva, Rioja DOCa 2012 750ML ($99.95) $89 special, 24+ bottles in stock now
Case-6 Remelluri Gran Reserva, Rioja DOCa 2012 750ML ($599.95) $499 special (that’s only $83.17/bottle!)
James Suckling 96 points
“The DNA of Remelluri is here. Wild mountain herb character, structured and firm, these tannins are succulent and deeply expressive. Powerful and assertive red plums, wild cherries and roasting herbs with the oak sitting well. Power and balance. Try from 2021.”
Luis Gutierrez-Wine Advocate 94+ points “A blend of Tempranillo, Garnacha and Graciano, the 2012 Granja Remelluri Gran Reserva represents what they are aiming for with this wine, a classical expression of the place, the quintessence of the vineyards. The select their oldest vineyards and age the wine for a long time, coming back to those early years of a modern Rioja that has now turned into a classic. It has some dusty tannins, with good grip and length. It was bottled in 24,238 bottles after an élevage of 26 months. It has been in bottle since May 2015.”

Remelluri Reserva, Rioja Doca 2012 750ML ($44.95) $33 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Josh Raynolds-Vinous 93 points
“Deep ruby. Ripe red berries, dried flowers, illicit herb and smoky minerals on the exotically perfumed nose. The palate offers spicy, penetrating, concentrated flavors of black raspberry, cherry compote and floral pastilles, with a zesty mineral quality building in the glass. Shows excellent clarity and intensity on the very long, floral, gently tannic finish.”
Wine Advocate 93 points “The flagship 2012 Reserva was cropped from a year when they started seeing the results of improvements made to the work in the vineyards that started in 2010. 2012 was not as warm and ripe as 2011, and the wine comes through as a nice balance between power and elegance, with some earthiness, good fruit and a fine palate. It has a personality between the Labastida and San Vicente bottlings of the Lindes bottlings. It matured in barrique for 18 months, but the wood feels very well integrated. 2012 was a shorter crop, and they produced some 281,000 bottles. It was bottled in April 2015.”

This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast today!

Remelluri Lindes de Remelluri San Vicente, Rioja Doca 2014 750ML ($27.95) $24 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Case-6 Remelluri Lindes de Remelluri San Vicente, Rioja Doca 2014 750ML ($179.95) $128 special (that’s only $21.33/bottle!)
James Suckling 96 points
“Some richer, darker and deeper fruit character with plums, blackberries and a dark, earthy streak. The tannins are more upright, more elevated, and the fruit is richer and darker than in the Labastida. This has real presence, grip and energy. Try from 2021.”
Grapelive 94 points “Telmo Rodriguez, one of the most iconic and best winemakers of his generation…. has accomplished himself as a champion of terroir over varietal and employs artisan craftsmanship in the cellar, with his wines hardly ever showing overt oak or aggressive alcohol, they always show distinctive purity and a sense of place, and these secondary wines known as Lindes de Remmelluri are magnificent expressions of Rioja, they are richly flavored and soulful wines crafted from old vine purchased fruit from vineyards that prior had got into the family’s main wine. These two vineyard select wines, Labastida and this San Vincente, coming from vineyards that used to go into the Remelluri Reserva are now separated into these two new single vineyard bottlings that are absolutely stunning values, especially in this 2014 vintage….The beautiful and deep Lindes de Remelluri Viñedos de San Vicente 2014, a field blend of 95% Tempranillo and 5% Garnacha, was fermented using all native yeasts in cool stainless steel tanks and then raised in barrel, 100% French oak, for 12 months before bottling where it is rested a good amount of time as well. San Vincente in the Rioja Alta just to the east of Haro is at about 50 meters up, but hotter than the higher sites at Labastida and at the main Remelluri estate located in Rioja Alavesa which are much cooler, making this wine seem more lush, riper in satiny tannin and with a softer acidity. Grown on hardened clay and calcareous limestone over a firm core of bedrock from organic vines that average at least 40 years of age this wine shows warm dark fruits, blackberry, cherry and plum lead the way along with hints of earthy mulberry and cranberry along with lilacs, cedar/sandalwood, a touch of vanilla and a subtle array of spices. 2014 was a slightly cooler year and that really helps this wine feel alive on the opulent and full bodied palate and it lingers on and on with a echoing aftertaste that is highly impressive. Telmo’s wines are always polished and textural, but distinctly authentic with terruño character and delivering substance along with some flair, which this one shows, it should age well too, I can imagine at least another decade plus with this 2014 San Vincente.”
 
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Sicily’s Nearly Lost, Great Underrated Grape
 
Perricone is the greatest grape in Sicily that no one’s ever heard of. Nearly extinct at the turn of the 20th century, it survived as a blending partner for Nero d’Avola.  Only recently has it been vinified on its own and the results can be fantastic.  Carusa e Minini make one of the best out there: pretty, fragrant and zesty. It’s a perfect summer red and is one to stock up on.


In Stock Now:

Caruso E Minini Perricone Naturalmente Bio 2017 750ML ($24.95) $20.90 special, 36+ bottles in stock now
Case-12 Caruso E Minini Perricone Naturalmente Bio 2017 750ML ($299.95) $228 special (that’s only $19/bottle!)
Ian D’Agata-Vinous 95 points
“Bright medium red. Pungently perfumed nose offers violet, lavender, Szechuan pepper, lemongrass, blood orange and small red berries. Then juicy and very fresh flavors similar to the aromas, plus a building licorice note, linger impressively on the medium-bodied mouthfeel. Closes with magical, persistent inner-mouth perfume and truly exceptional clarity and cut. This sees no oak whatsoever, and therefore the wine’s magical perfume is really allowed to shine through. A real knockout of a wine, and easily one of the two or three best Perricones I have ever tried.”
 
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Krug 2004

Grace Under Glass


“2004 is clearly superior to the consistently underwhelming 2002” –Antonio Galloni

“There’s a controlled power to this poised, vinous, linear 2004… It has a luminous freshness and good density” –Decanter

“There is marvelous precision here on both the nose and palate, not to mention a sense of harmony and grace” –John Gilman, A View from the Cellar

At Krug, ’04>’02—which is really saying something.
Krug Brut, Champagne 2004 750ML ($299.95) $259 special, 24+ bottles in stock now
Antonio Galloni 97+ points
“Krug’s 2004 Vintage is absolutely mesmerizing. Layers of bright, chiseled fruit open up effortlessly as the wine fleshes out with time in the glass. Persistent and beautifully focused, with a translucent sense of energy, the 2004 captures all the best qualities of the year. Moreover, the 2004 is clearly superior to the consistently underwhelming 2002 and the best Krug Vintage since 1996. Readers who can find it should not hesitate, as it is a magical bottle.”
Wine Advocate 97 points “Combining subtleness with complexity, the coolish Krug 2004 Brut opens with a highly elegant, fascinatingly clear, bright and refreshing bouquet of ripe (apple) fruits. Dense and round, with a delicate mineral soul, the pure but perfectly balanced 2004 reveals great finesse and weightless elegance with a long and round finish. This is a gorgeous Krug vintage that is 14 years old but still on the rise. Tasted from ID 316034 in New York in November 2018.”-SR
Decanter 97 points “This is the current and latest vintage release from Krug, and is a fitting successor to 2002, though it’s very different in style – unusually, the blend contains more Chardonnay than Pinot Noir. Despite this, it is hallmark Krug with its oxidative profile. It has a luminous freshness and good density without heaviness. There’s a controlled power to this poised, vinous, linear 2004, displaying candied fruits, minerals, gingerbread, white chocolate, caramel and marzipan. This has a long, dry autolytic finish, great balance and lovely bead. Disgorged just after the next, and very different, vintage we tasted, the Krug 2003. Drinking Window 2017-2037.”
John Gilman 97 points “The new release of 2004 Krug is absolutely beautiful and is already quite elegant and open on both the nose and palate and is drinking with great finesse. I had expected this wine to be a bit more steely in structure out of the blocks, but the refinement of the blend this year has produced a wine that is already a joy to drink at age thirteen, though it will continue age gracefully for many, many decades to come. The cépages in 2004 is thirty-nine percent Chardonnay, thirty-seven percent Pinot Noir and twenty-four percent Pinot Meunier, with the wine having been disgorged in the winter of 2016. The bouquet jumps from the glass in a refined mix of apple, a touch of walnut, warm bread, lavender, a superb base of soil tones and a topnote of smokiness. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and utterly seamless, with vibrant acids, great focus and grip, a lovely core, refined mousse and a very long, complex, racy and energetic finish. There is marvelous precision here on both the nose and palate, not to mention a sense of harmony and grace that is fairly rare in the 2004 vintage. Chapeau! 2017-2060.”
 
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Two Icons of Priorat

Clos Erasmus and Familia Nin-Ortiz




Clos Erasmus

It seems nearly impossible for any winery to have collected the scores and praise that Clos Erasmus has, while still being available for purchase in the open market.  Since the turn of the century, their flagship wine has scored over 96 points fifteen times—from the Wine Advocate alone!  That’s across multiple critics (Robert Parker to Luis Guitierrez) who have all recognized the impressive class and iconic power of one of Spain’s greatest wines.

Daphne Glorian, who was born in Switzerland, seems an unlikely figure to be a leading winemaker in Priorat.  However, she fell in love with the region, moving there to help revive old vines and she’s now a rock star in the region on the level of Palacios and Barbier.

Clos Erasmus represents her finest wine and a truly spectacular example of what the region is capable of.  Rich, bold and powerful, the wine is quintessential Priorat through and through and is one of the truly iconic bottlings of Spain. She also produces a second wine, called Laurel, which displays all of the style and panache of the estate at a very approachable price.


In Stock Now:

Only twelve bottles available
Clos Erasmus, Priorat DOCa 2017 750ML ($219.95) $199 special
Wine Advocate 98 points
“The just-bottled 2017 Clos Erasmus is a blend of Garnacha with 25% Syrah that fermented with indigenous yeasts in oak vats and matured in 228-liter oak barrels (40% new). It feels very aromatic, expressive and open, floral and elegant and surprisingly fresh for the conditions of the year. It’s still young and undeveloped, with the puppy fat still to be rendered, and right now, it comes through as juicy and elegant, with very good freshness and super fine tannins. It’s very aromatic and floral, really impressive for 2017. It seems like the year was much better in the Mediterranean part of Spain than in the rest of the country. 3,000 bottles produced.-Luis Gutierrez”

This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast today!

Clos Erasmus ‘Laurel’, Priorat DOCa, 2017 750ML ($59.95) $49 special
Case-12 Clos Erasmus ‘Laurel’, Priorat DOCa, 2017 750ML ($719.95) $549 special (that’s only $45.75/bottle!)
Wine Advocate 95 points
“The 2017 Laurel is a blend of the younger vines, some barrels that were declassified from Clos Erasmus and the remaining Cabernet Sauvignon, and in the low-yielding and dry 2017 vintage, it’s 70% Garnacha, 20% Syrah and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, with 15% alcohol. The wine fermented mostly in concrete and oak vats with indigenous yeasts and matured in a combination of oak vats, concrete, used barriques and amphorae for 16 months. They produce this to be approachable from the moment it’s released. The 2017s feel very aromatic, open, expressive and young, quite primary, tender and juicy and surprisingly fresh for a dry, warm year that resulted in a very early harvest. There is a peachy, soft, approachable quality here that I like very much. Surprisingly enough, winemaker and proprietor Daphne Glorian sees reminiscences of the 2013s in the 2017s, and I have to agree. Different from 2016, but at the same quality level. 19,126 bottles were filled in May 2019.-Luis Gutierrez”

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

 
Familia Nin-Ortiz

Top Priorat From Clos Erasmus’ Vineyard Whisperer


Familia Nin-Ortiz is one of the leading lights of New Priorat.  Both Ester Nin and Carles Ortiz are renowned viticulturists (Ester, notably, was the vineyard guru behind Clos Erasmus) and some of the earliest proponents of biodynamics in Priorat, but what they’re doing together on the winery side is stunning indeed.  Their wines are some of the most compelling in Priorat, combining the power inherent in the terroir with a stunning sense of energy and vitality.

They’re best known for their “Nit de Nin” single vineyard bottlings—wines which the top restaurants in Spain fight over.  Both the “Mas d’En Cancador” and “La Coma d’En Romeu” are monuments of Priorat and channel the power of the appellation into focused beams of schist-based energy.  Their “Planetes” releases offer a gentler, more elegant approach to the wines, perfect for drinking now.

The only complaint about these excellent bottles is the quantities.  Every notable restaurant in Barcelona and Madrid (and London) are trying to put these on their wine lists, so often there’s not a lot available by the time the US gets access to them.  Only 30 and 9 bottles are available of the two single vineyards and the Planetes wines are coming under four cases each.  These are wines to secure now, before you can’t any more.


Arriving ETA June:

Familia Nin-Ortiz ‘Planetes de Nin’ Blanc, Priorat DOCa 2018 750ML ($99.95) $75 pre-arrival special
Luis Gutierrez-Wine Advocate 94 points
“Cariñena Blanca has finally been added to the registry of varieties in Spain, which means it should soon be allowed by the Priorat appellation, so they could start putting it on the labels of the 2018 Planetes de Nin Carinyena Blanca. This fermented and matured in used 300-liter oak barrels for seven months. It’s 13% alcohol and has a pH of 3.2 with 6.5 grams of acidity (tartaric); they struggled to get the minimum 13% alcohol required by the appellation, as the year was very cold and they lost a lot of grapes waiting for the alcohol level. It’s a year with lots of freshness, and the wine, which feels really young and undeveloped, needs some time in the glass to open up. This is an exceptional year that is going to develop slowly in bottle. The palate is vibrant, focused and dry, with citrus freshness and a mineral finish. 1,948 bottles were filled in April 2018.”

This is the only listing in the USA today!

Familia Nin-Ortiz ‘Nit de Nin’ La Coma d’en Romeu, Priorat DOCa 2017 750ML ($179.95) $149 pre-arrival special
Luis Gutierrez-Wine Advocate 98+ points
“The 2017 Nit de Nin La Coma d’en Romeu is from an extremely dry and early harvest that delivered just five hectoliters per hectare! That means they only produced 1,330 bottles from the 1.5 hectares of Garnacha on those slate terraces at 350 meters in altitude. It was bottled in April 2019. It has a beautiful and subtle nose that’s very spicy (cloves and cumin, curry and pink pepper) and floral, with a palate that feels light but has great depth and inner power, with pungent flavors and subtle minerality.”

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

Familia Nin-Ortiz ‘Nit de Nin’ Mas d’en Cacador, Priorat DOCa 2017 750ML ($119.95) $99 pre-arrival special
Luis Gutierrez-Wine Advocate 97+ points
“The 2017 Nit de Nin Mas d’en Caçador is a vintage they talk about like this: “We will remember this vintage as one of the most extreme of the decade, along with that of 2012. It is in years like these that the work we do in the field is rewarded. In spite of the climatic exceptionality, we have acidity and pH that seem like a miracle to us. Our vines did not suffer the severe frosts of this 2017.” The wine has lower alcohol than the 2016 but the same pH of 3.3; insultingly young and tender, it doesn’t feel like the wine had a long élevage in oak. It has kept very good freshness and great balance. It’s tasty, pungent and long, with power and elegance and all the components to develop nicely in bottle. 1,440 bottles were filled in April 2019.”

This is the lowest listed price in the USA today!

Familia Nin-Ortiz Planetes de Nin Classic, Priorat DOCa 2017 750ML ($59.95) $49 pre-arrival special
Luis Gutierrez-Wine Advocate 95 points
“The 2017 Planetes de Nin comes from the four hectares of 20-year-old Garnacha and 11-year-old Cariñena in the Planetes vineyard in Porrera at 450 meters in altitude. It’s 60% Garnacha (some of it Peluda) and the rest Cariñena, harvested early. It fermented with indigenous yeasts and matured in 3,200-liter oak vats and one 1,000-liter amphora for 17 months. It has depth and harmony, and the vines are getting older and seem to be better and better balanced. This is not that different from the 2016; it feels quite stable and has its style and character, especially since the 2015 vintage. 9,704 bottles were filled in April 2019.”

This is the only listing in the USA today!

Familia Nin-Ortiz ‘Planetes de Nin’ Garnatxes en Amfora, Priorat DOCa 2018 750ML ($49.95) $41.90 pre-arrival special
Luis Gutierrez-Wine Advocate 93 points
“Produced with Garnacha grapes from their four hectares in Finca Planetes in Porrera, the 2018 Planetes de Nin Garnatxes en Amfora fermented with indigenous yeasts for four weeks and matured in 700- and 1,000-liter terracotta amphorae for seven months. The nose jumps out of the glass with very clean aromas that are expressive, floral and pure, with a profile of juicy fruit, like biting into a bunch of ripe Garnacha. Delicious! 6,200 bottles were filled in June 2019.”

This is the lowest listed price on the West Coast today!

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Thanks for reading!