Barthod’s Stellar, Limited 2016’s
Two Rare Coche-Dury Treasures
Sequitur Subscriber Special (Including the New 2017!)
Müller-Catoir’s Iconic 2017’s
Wine Spectator Advance Highlights Lambray’s 2016 Gem
Trending Wines of the Week
Perfect/Classic Clos Apalta
The Vineyard That Made Bernkastel Famous
More Top 2016 Port Arrives Tomorrow
Barthod’s Stellar, Limited 2016’s
The wines have become harder and harder to find over recent years—six hectares doesn’t go very far in the world market. Nevertheless, we’ve managed to secure a strong allocation across her portfolio (though each bottling is very limited in quantity). These are some of the Burgundian highlights of each vintage and 2016 is no exception.
Arriving Friday:
Domaine Ghislaine Barthod Bourgogne Les Bons Batons Rouge, Burgundy 2016 750ML ($59.95) $49 pre-arrival special
“(just 30 hectoliters per hectare made): Healthy dark red. Slightly inky but fresh scents of blueberry, violet and licorice. In a firm, dark-fruit style, offering noteworthy punch and definition and a complicating element of salinity. The tannins are serious but not green or dry. Finishes with lingering dark berries and violet and an impression of brisk acidity. An outperformer for its appellation.” -Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
“An agreeably fresh nose combines notes of various red berries with soft floral and earth scents. There is both good energy and detail to the appealingly textured flavors that terminate in a compact, saline and lingering finish. This very pretty effort should unwind relatively quickly. Lovely.” –Burghound
Domaine Ghislaine Barthod Les Baudes, Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru2016 750ML ($199.95) $179 pre-arrival special
Burghound 90-93 points “Here the equally elegant nose is even cooler and more restrained with a similar aromatic profile. The sleek, intense and more voluminous flavors possess plenty of muscle and punch before culminating in a dusty, serious and notably more structured finish. In contrast to the prior wines, all of which could be approached in their youth, this beauty is clearly going to require at least some patience and 12 to 15 if you wish to experience it at its apogee.”
Domaine Ghislaine Barthod Aux Beaux Bruns, Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru 2016 750ML ($199.95) $169 pre-arrival special
Stephen Tanzer-Vinous 90-92 points “Bright red with ruby tones. Crushed black fruits and cherry on the nose, lifted by notes of mint, rock and orange zest. Pliant but firm wine with thickness, clarity and lift. Sappy flavors of medicinal dark cherry, spices and red licorice display excellent balance and depth. A strong performance for this cuvée, from a crop that was off by 50% due to the frost. This reminded me of the superb 1993 bottling.”
Burghound 90-92 points “This is more aromatically elegant than usual with its fresh array of cool essence of red currant, cherry, violet and soft spice wisps. There is fine density to the sappy and seductively textured medium-bodied flavors that display fine depth and persistence on the balanced finish. This is a classic Beaux Bruns that combines a taut muscularity with a refined mouthfeel.”
Domaine Ghislaine Barthod Les Charmes, Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru 2016 750ML ($249.95) $219 pre-arrival special
Burghound 91-94 points “Sweet Spot Outstanding. A somewhat more deeply pitched nose offers up notes of dark cherry and raspberry along with spice and floral whiffs. The rich, caressing and seductively textured flavors possess terrific mid-palate density as well as unusually good power on the sappy, markedly firm and palate drenching finish. This is a big Charmes, indeed much more imposingly-scaled than normal. In a word, excellent.”
Arriving Friday:
“A ‘wow’ wine if there ever was one.”
Only one bottle available
Coche-Dury Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Cote de Beaune 2013 750ML ($3999.95) $3319 pre-arrival special
Burghound 97 points “An incredibly densely fruited nose also only grudgingly offers up notes of stone, tangerine peel, white flowers, green apple and plenty of spice and soft wood nuances. There is an almost painful intensity to the equally concentrated and overtly powerful broad-shouldered flavors that brim with dry extract that simultaneously coats the palate while buffering the extremely firm acid spine on the incredibly long finish. This is a breathtakingly good CC but note well that it will be largely pointless to open one of these rare beauties before it is at least 7 to 8 years of age. As an aside I would add that I was so taken with this wine that I could still taste it the next day. A ‘wow’ wine if there ever was one.”
The next best price is $3799.89
That’s a difference of over $480 per bottle!
Coche-Dury Meursault, Cote de Beaune 2016 750ML ($749.95) $649 pre-arrival special
Stephen Tanzer 91 points “(from Narvaux, which was not affected by frost and yielded close to 48 hectoliters per hectare): Pale, bright yellow. Aromas of lemon, lime and stone. Firm on the attack, then sharply chiseled but not at all hard in the middle palate, with lovely fruit intensity and classic Meursault citricity. Tightly coiled yet somehow pliant, this village wine shows terrific citrus lift and cut. Finishes pure, fresh and long. Raphaël Coche told me that this wine, along with his Meursault Perrières and Corton-Charlemagne, “are what 2016 could have been.”
Including the New 2017!
Just Arrived, In Stock Now:
Mike Etzel’s Sequitur Pinot Noir, Ribbon Ridge 2014 750ML ($119.95) Your Price $79
Josh Raynolds–Vinous 94 points “Limpid ruby-red. Smoky, mineral-accented aromas of black raspberry, cherry cola and incense carry a strong spicecake overtone. Stains the palate with sappy red berry liqueur, spicecake and floral pastille flavors that are lifted and given definition and tension by juicy acidity. At once rich and nervy, with no excess fat but showing excellent depth and intensity of flavor. Finishes with sexy notes of candied violet and smoky Indian spices and superb, gently tannic persistence. This wine’s Beaux Freres bloodline is very clear to see.”
Wine Spectator 94 points “Broad and spicy, open-textured and generous, with ripe plum and currant flavors, shaded by pepper, sage and coffee notes as the finish sails past fine-grained tannins. Completely harmonious and made to age. Drink now through 2024.”
The average listed price is $100
Mike Etzel’s Sequitur Pinot Noir, Ribbon Ridge 2015 750ML ($119.95) Your Price $79
Josh Raynolds – Vinous 95 points “Deep brilliant red. A strikingly complex bouquet evokes ripe, mineral-accented red berries, cherry cola, vanilla, five-spice powder and sandalwood. Alluringly sweet, seamless and expansive on the palate, offering concentrated black raspberry, cherry liqueur, spicecake and lavender pastille flavors that are given spine and lift by a core of juicy acidity. Delivers a compelling blend of power and delicacy and finishes extremely long and smooth; rounded tannins frame the lingering red fruit preserve notes.”
Wine Advocate 94 points “Pale to medium ruby purple in color, the 2015 Sequitur Pinot Noir has a very provocative nose of Bing cherries and cranberries over a core of red roses, game, yeast extract and underbrush. Medium-bodied, with wonderful energy and freshness, it has a lively backbone and long finish paved with very fine, ripe tannins.”
Winery note “Sequitur 2015 Pinot Noir “Two fold,” a collaboration between our Mother, the earth, those of us who “play” in the vineyard and winery, and you, the wine lover.”
Mike Etzel’s Sequitur Pinot Noir, Ribbon Ridge 2016 750ML ($119.95) Your Price $79
Wine Advocate 94+ points “Pale to medium ruby-purple in color, the 2016 Sequitur Pinot Noir has a lovely, open nose of black and red cherries and blackberries with notions of wood smoke, turned earth, autumn leaves, cardamom and potpourri. Medium-bodied, it floods the mouth with ripe black and red fruits with wonderful earthy/spicy accents, very fine, grainy tannins and mouthwatering acidity, finishing long with spice and floral layers. 480 cases produced.”
The average price is $100
Winery Note “TOTALITY—During the growing season of 2017, Oregon was treated to a total solar eclipse, where the moon passed exactly between the earth and the sun. Day turned to night, the temperature dropped and the farm animals were disoriented. The moment of awe was tempered with a deep sense of vulnerability, as we witnessed our world bow down to the power of nature. May this 2017 vintage seeped in “totality,” bring you a fresh perspective.”
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From grand, aristocratic Riesling to wild and exciting Scheurebe to the best Pinot Blanc (Weisburgunder) in the world, Muller-Catoir’s wines are top of the class in every category—and excellent value as well. 2017 was an exceptional vintage, even by recent German standards, and the wines are powerful, focused and intense—the perfect sort of year for the Pfalz. These arrive tomorrow and then later in the month, perfect for spring drinking or a sleep in the cellar.
Muller-Catoir Haardter Burgergarten ‘Im Breumel’ Riesling Grosses Gewachs, Pfalz 2017 750ML ($59.95) $45 pre-arrival special
Stuart Pigott – jamessuckling.com 98 points
Wine Spectator 94 points “Extremely elegant and precisely crafted, with notes of star anise and lavender framing the core of crunchy pear and blood orange flavors. The acidity is appreciable, fueling the flavors and spice accents. Savory mineral details linger on the finish. Best from 2021 through 2031.”
Terry Theise note “A eucalyptus angularity and a chile-thread bite-not heat, as it only has 13% abv, but simply expressiveness. It’s rather a wild ride, not (at least now) ‘elegant’ but splashy and energetic; not quite ‘mineral’ but rocky, a clamber up a rocky chute in a bearclaw scratch landscape. It’s a departure for this wine, which has always been more comme il faut.”
The next best price is $67.67
The average listed price is $72
Stuart Pigott – jamessuckling.com 94 points ” Effusive aromas of apricots and lemon zest with hints of summer flowers. At once succulent, graceful and finely nuanced on the palate, then very long and filigree at the finish. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.”
Stuart Pigott – jamessuckling.com 94 points “A stunning, bone-dry riesling for this moderate price level! Fine nose of sliced pears and honeysuckle. Stunning freshness and purity on the medium-full palate. The finish is subtlety reminiscent of Mosel. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.”
Terry Theise note “‘Haardt’ is the village wine. And quite the wine it is; dense and salty, an excellent Pfalz Riesling and an atypical Catoir wine, more suede than silk, but generous and solid and pineappley.”
The next best price is $29.99
Stuart Pigott – jamessuckling.com 95 points “Why drink a dry white called scheurebe? Here’s the answer. An enormously complex nose of grapefruit, cassis and pineapple, then breathtaking purity and elegance on the palate and a totally uplifting and super-long finish. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.”
Terry Theise note “Over 50-year vines now, and this is outsized Scheu, dense and grand, spiciness to the intersection of space and time; salty and regal, and in its delightfully gnarly way gorgeous, erecting a megalith on your palate. Forget spitting; you can’t get rid of it.”
The next best price is $58.50
That’s a difference of over $25 per bottle!
Stuart Pigott – jamessuckling.com 93 points “Very creamy and silky, but without a hint of fat, this is a very polished pinot blanc with underplayed power. Delicate white-peach and pear aromas. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.”
Arriving Later in March:
Muller-Catoir Haardter Burgergarten Riesling Spatlese, Pfalz 2017 750ML ($39.95) $31.90 pre-arrival special
Stuart Pigott – jamessuckling.com 95 points “Stunning nectarine, peach and papaya character, together with lovely succulence and enormous vitality, make this a breathtaking sweet Spätlese with a finish that’s straight as a laser beam and super-clean. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.”
Stuart Pigott – jamessuckling.com 93 points “Ripe white and yellow peaches and just enough acidity to lift the medium-full body and give the long finish some real drive. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.”
Stuart Pigott – jamessuckling.com 92 points “Wonderful pink-grapefruit and muscat nose that bowls you over. So joyful and really rather subtle for a seriously aromatic grape variety. Very bright finish. From organically grown grapes. Drink now.”
Terry Theise note “I’ve often said you have to go to the Grand Cru Goldert from ZH to fins a Muscat equal to Catoir’s, but lately the Alsace wine’s been flirting with overripeness, while the Catoir never does. Clearly I adore Muscat, but if it has a claim to stake on greatness, this is where. The ’17 is clean, brisk, shimmering, salty and gigglesome. Forget the sleek salty substance; just suck on the Thai-basil leaf while you wiggle your toes….”
The next best price is $35.77
Stuart Pigott – jamessuckling.com 93 points “The whiff of smoke gives the cassis nose of this wine an extra dimension. Concentrated and racy with a dangerous amount of energy. So juicy and vibrant with a long and very clean finish. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.”
Terry Theise note “A gooseberry note feints towards Sauvignon Blanc but pink grapefruit pulls it back; finely angular, with a sort of woodruff-like charred-leaf thing; obdurate length; the finish is like the embers of a campfire in your mouth.”
Stuart Pigott – jamessuckling.com 95 points “All the heads turned when this beauty walked into the room. Ripe and fresh, deep yet very clean and delicate, this is a superb pinot blanc. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.”
Highlights Lambray’s 2016 Gem
Domaine des Lambrays Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru, Cote de Nuits 2016 750ML ($319.95) $269 pre-arrival special
Wine Spectator 96 points
Domaine des Bosquets Gigondas Le Lieu Dit, Rhone 2016 750ML ($79.95) $59 special
Jeb Dunnuck 97 points “From a cooler terroir of sandy soils just beside the domaine, the 2016 Gigondas Le Lieu Dit is another tour de force from this brilliant estate. It sports a medium ruby color as well as a rocking bouquet of kirsch, blackberry liqueur, rose petals, damp earth, incense, and spice. Ultra-fine, seamless, elegant, and pure, it’s nevertheless powerful and rich, with awesome intensity. Readers need to snatch up this blockbuster.”
Jeb Dunnuck 96-98 points “The 2016 Gigondas Le Lieu-Dit is also 100% Grenache and comes from a parcel just beside the winery. This is a cooler, sandy terroir and the style of this cuvée is dramatically different than the La Colline cuvée, showing a much more finesse-driven, elegant, ethereal style. Nevertheless, the 2016 is one of the larger, richer example of the cuvée and sports a deep, inky color as well as to die for notes of black raspberries, crème de cassis, crushed pepper, and ground herbs. With full-bodied richness, polished, sweet tannin, no hard edges and a fabulous length, it’s another best to date cuvée from this estate.”
Wine Spectator 95 points “Deliciously ripe, featuring a bright and lively display of red currant, raspberry and blackberry coulis flavors that race along, underscored by fine but persistent chalky tannins and backed by lilac, violet, rooibos tea and savory notes along the way. The long finish ripples with fresh acidity. Best from 2020 through 2036.”
One of the best values in California Cab
Newton Vineyard ‘Skyside-Red Label’ Claret, North Coast 2016 750ML ($24.95) $16 special
Case-12 Newton Vineyard ‘Skyside-Red Label’ Claret, North Coast 2016 750ML ($299.95) $169 special (that’s only $14.08/bottle!)
Wine Enthusiast 90 points “Mint, chocolate and cherry flavors intermingle in this dry, full-bodied and firmly tannic wine blended from Bordeaux grape varieties. It offers plenty of blackberry notes shaded by black pepper and smoke and will stand up to the juiciest protein you can order.”
Flamboyant, powerful Portugese reds can be very impressive. This is stellar.
Quinta do Vale das Escadinhas ‘Quinta da Falorca’ Reserva, Dao 2011 750ML ($59.95) $39 special
Wine Advocate 95 points “The 2011 Reserva Quinta Da Falorca Lagar is a blend of Touriga Nacional (70%), Alfrocheiro (15%) and Tinta Roriz (15)%, aged for 18 months in new French oak. On opening, this didn’t seem anywhere near as silky as the Touriga Nacional, also reviewed. On the second day, if anything, it was more so, very Burgundian and very graceful, but also more powerful, with a bit more astringency on the finish. There are expressive fruit flavors around the edges, but, as with the Touriga, this is unevolved and needs time despite its late release. It is potentially a big winner, but I liked the Touriga slightly better just now. That could easily change.”
Chateau Gassier Cotes de Provence ‘Esprit Gassier’ Rose 2018 750ML ($21.95) $18 special
Case-12 Chateau Gassier Cotes de Provence ‘Esprit Gassier’ Rose 2018 750ML ($249.95) $196 special (that’s only $16.33/bottle!)
Importer Note “‘Esprit Gassier’ is the ‘Gassier Spirit’ that combines the exceptional terroir of the Sainte-Victoire region with Côtes de Provence varietals to produce a wine that expresses the family’s passion, expertise and creativity. The beautiful label, designed by a local artist, is silk-screened on the bottle to create a striking package. A very clear rosé with shades of peach. Intense nose with delicate aromas of white flowers and white fruit (peach). A second nose unveils spicy notes as well as scents of clementine. The mouth is round with notes of citrus fruits and a slight and healthy final acidity.”
Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Rotlay Riesling, Mosel 2011 750ML ($59.95) $33 special
Wine Advocate 91+ points “Carob and toasted nuts inflect baked apple and vanilla on the nose of Selbachs’ block-picked 2011 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Rotlay, which comes to the palate expansive, creamy, and buoyant (at 8.5% alcohol), its apple joined by almost overripe Persian melon. Hints of pip and botrytis bitterness add interest, but there is not the subtle interaction of flavors or the layer of primary juiciness that rendered the corresponding Anrecht bottling so memorable, but instead a more dominantly honeyed, soothingly rich personality. This long-finishing beauty may well – as its author suggests – just need some time to reveal its multiple layers.”
The next best price is $43.99
Alexandra Marnier Lapostolle and her husband Cyril de Bournet founded Lapostolle in 1994. The Marnier Lapostolle family, known for founding Grand Marnier liqueur, drew on long long roots in wine and spirits within France. Their project in Chile, under the name Lapostolle, delivers world-class wines across every tier. Their flagship wine, the Clos Apalta, is a wine spared no expense (as you’d expect given the names involved. We’re pleased to offer the 2015, a wine that received a perfect score from James Suckling as well as its sibling—the 2015 “Petit Clos,” both arriving tomorrow.
Arriving Tomorrow:
Casa Lapostolle Clos Apalta, Apalta 2015 750ML ($149.95) $128 pre-arrival special
James Suckling 100 points “There is a subtle complexity on the nose with currant, berry, fresh herb and wet earth aromas. Cut fresh flowers, too. Full body, dense and powerful. Incredible character here with such purity and polish. It goes on for minutes. Formed, sculptured yet soulful. A monumental wine for Chile. Unbelievable. More powerful than the 2014 which was 100 points. A blend of 46% carmenere, 30% cabernet sauvignon, 19% merlot and 5% cabernet franc. Made from biodynamically grown grapes. Better in 2022”
Casa Lapostolle ‘Le Petit Clos Apalta’, Apalta Valley 2015 750ML ($49.95) $39 pre-arrival special
Case-6 Casa Lapostolle ‘Le Petit Clos Apalta’, Apalta Valley 2015 750ML ($299.95) $219 pre-arrival special (that’s only $36.50/bottle!)
James Suckling 95 points “Blackberry, fresh herb, wet earth and tar aromas follow through to a full body, with powerful tannins and density yet an agile and polished, textured finish. Much better than 2014. The second wine of Clos Apalta. Try it in 2021”
The average price is $41
Casa Lapostolle Clos Apalta, Apalta 2014 750ML ($159.95) $119 special
James Suckling 100 points
Doctor + Badstube From Thanisch
The challenge is worth it, though, as the best wines from the Doctor, including these from Thanisch, are spectacular indeed. Every year we fight and scrap to secure as much as we can from Thanisch, who’s turned into a cult classic producer. They make bottlings from two vineyards. One is from the Doctor and the other from the Badstube, which incorporates a few different vineyards in and around Bernkastel. These wines are the essence of thrilling Mosel wines, with a richness and stature that only the Doctor can bring. We have an assortment of 2016’s in stock now and the highly anticipated 2017’s, which were very highly reviewed, arrive tomorrow.
2017’s Arriving Tomorrow:
Dr. H. Thanisch Bernkasteler Doctor Riesling Kabinett, Mosel 2017 750ML ($39.95) $33 pre-arrival special
Mosel Fine Wines 93 points “The 2017er Berncasteler Doctor Kabinett offers a wonderfully complex and refined nose of white flowers, spices, whipped cream, minty herbs, earl grey and vanilla. The wine is ethereally light and refined on the palate, where it delivers some Kabinett precision and finesse with great multilayered complexity. The finish is all about finesse, delicacy and refinement. This is a great Kabinett in the making. 2027-2042.”
Mosel Fine Wines 93 points “The 2017er Berncasteler Doctor Spätlese offers a ripe nose of yellow peach, orange blossom, apricot, coconut cream, pear and smoke, all wrapped into some toffee. The wine is compact and still on the sweet side and intense on the palate. Riper fruits including apricot, mango and melon kick in and make for a delicately creamy and still rather sweet feel in the finish. This big backward offer will need more than a decade to absorb its sweetness and develop the inherent finesse of Doctor wines. 2032-2057.”
Mosel Fine Wines 91 points “The 2017er Bernkasteler Badstube Spätlese offers a gorgeously ripe and fruity nose of pineapple, candied grapefruit, melon and pear, all wrapped into a touch of aniseed herbs. It displays quite some ripe yellow fruits on the structured and quite intense palate often found in Auslese rather than Spätlese. The finish is driven by zesty acidity and spices, so that the feeling of sweetness is well packed into a racy structure. 2025-2037.”
Mosel Fine Wines 90 points “The 2017er Bernkasteler Badstube Kabinett displays a subtly fruity and floral aromatic profile with great complexity and finesse on the nose. Notes of whipped cream, candied grapefruit, yellow peach, pear and herbs are wrapped into delicately cream and light sweetness on the palate. The finish is light-weighted and delicately creamy. 2025-2037.”
2015’s & 2016’s In Stock Now:
Dr. H. Thanisch Bernkasteler Doctor Riesling Kabinett, Mosel 2016 750ML ($49.95) $39 special
Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 93 points “The 2016 Berncasteler Doctor Riesling Kabinett has a lovely clear and aromatic stone fruit bouquet with coolish, flinty slate aromas. Lush, round and highly attractive on the palate, this is a very elegant and charming Doctor with a seriously mineral, stimulatingly salty finish. Tasted March 2018.”
David Schildknecht – Vinous 92 points “Musky, sweaty notes mingle with scents of ripe pear, white peach, decadent freesia and lily. The palate impression is lusciously fruity, subtly sweet, faintly creamy and extremely delicate – perfectly suited to the prominence of inner-mouth perfume. The finish features striking lift along with inhalative flavor retention. (Breathing in and out after spitting – or swallowing – it’s almost as if the wine hadn’t left your mouth.)”
Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 93 points “The 2016 Berncasteler Doctor Riesling Spätlese shows a complex, smoky, fresh and elegant bouquet but is still slightly reductive. Piquant and mineral on the palate, with generous fruit, this is an elegant, crystalline and complex Doctor Spätlese with a dense, salty, very expressive and persistent finish. Keep this wine for at least a decade. Tasted March 2018.”
David Schildknecht – Vinous 92 points “A product of picking on three different days, this “regular” Doctor Spätlese bottling (there are two others from Thanisch in 2016) leads with alkaline, saline scents of sea breeze such as I can’t recall before from this site. With that comes a greenhouse-like allusion to flowering and leafing things, as well as intimations of the fresh apple, pear, and honeydew melon that dominate on the glossy palate. This is startlingly cool and northerly-fruited in personality for a Doctor Spätlese, which complements the sense of delicacy delivered on a lingering finish transparent to alkaline and stony nuances. And in enjoying it, I didn’t once think about sweetness, because its presence is modest and entirely supportive.”
David Schildknecht – Vinous 91 points “Ripe pear and apple dominate on the nose as well as on a silken, buoyant palate, supported by subtle sweetness. Mouthwatering salinity and transparency to crystalline stony nuances give the long, refreshingly juicy finish a fascinating and delightful sense of shimmer.”
Mosel Fine Wines 90 points “The 2016er Badstube Kabinett was harvested at 88° Oechsle. It offers a delicately ripe nose of pear, earthy spices, slate and smoke. The wine comes to life on the palate as acidity peps up some succulent pear right into the long finish and gives it a gorgeously lively and well-balanced side. The after-taste is elegantly playful. 2026-2041”
Dr. H. Thanisch Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Spatlese, Mosel 2015 750ML ($31.95) $28 special
John Gilman 93 points “The 2015 Badstube Spätlese from Weingut Dr. Thanisch is a lovely wine, wafting from the glass in a complex and vibrant aromatic blend of white cherries, delicious apple,. slate, lime blossoms and a topnote of bee pollen. On the palate the wine is pure, medium-full and very elegant, with lovely filigree, racy acids and outstanding length and grip on the complex, vibrant and bouncy finish. I really love the structural tension of this wine.”
Wine Advocate 92+ points “The 2015 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Spätlese is perfectly ripe and elegant on the nose, with a clear and aromatic Riesling aroma intermixed with slate and noble sur-lie flavors. Lush and round, very elegant and precise, this is a very fine and delicate Spätlese with gorgeous fruit. The finish is long and intense, stimulatingly vital and finessed. This Spätlese is a wine to keep for two or three decades.”
Stephan Reinhardt-Wine Advocate 92+ points “The 2016 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Spätlese offers a clear, elegant nose with bright fruit, green asparagus and flinty aromas. Racy and lush on the palate, this is a refreshing, elegant but still pretty sweet Spätlese with crystalline, piquant acidity and structure. The finish is long and complex, but the wine needs a decade to integrate all its components into a fine and elegant Spätlese. Tasted March 2018.”
Mosel Fine Wines 92 points “The 2016er Badstube Spätlese offers a nice nose made of pear, white peach, cassis, minty herbs and a hint of whipped cream. The wine is nicely playful and loaded with white fruits and minerals on the palate. The finish is beautifully playful and complex. While still young, this hints at great potential. 2026-2041”
Arrives Tomorrow
“I often forget the joy of tasting young Port. Any trepidation vanished with the first sample: the succulent and ebullient black fruit with veins of blueberry and cassis, those cashmere tannins and, crucially in 2016, the silver bead of acidity that lends them so much freshness and eliminates any heaviness in the mouth.
“The general quality across the board is high and, from the selection I tasted, there is not really a weak link in the pack. The focus on quality is paramount in the Douro. Given that declarations only come around once every three or four years on average, you can bet that there is no cutting corners.
“There is no doubting the quality of these nascent 2016s. I am aware that the market can be resistant since the noble tradition of finishing dinner with a wee snifter of Vintage Port has faded in recent years. Then again, in terms of quality to price ratio it beats their equivalents Bordeaux or Burgundy hands down. Why not treat yourself to a case or two? Not only is Port more pleasurable in its youth, but these fortifieds possess in-built longevity and will give three or four decades of drinking pleasure.” – Neal Martin, Vinous
Arriving Tomorrow:
Dow’s Vintage Port, Portugal 2016 750ML ($119.95) $99 pre-arrival special
Dow’s Vintage Port, Portugal 2016 375ML ($69.95) $59 pre-arrival special
Wine Spectator 98 points “This packs a lot of fun, with a wallop of blackberry, fig, boysenberry and açai berry compote flavors working together, laced with a mouthwatering licorice snap note and driven by a fresh, well-detailed finish. A roasted apple wood accent is integrated as well, lending textural contrast through the vivacious finish. Best from 2030 through 2055.”
Wine Enthusiast 97 points “Very floral, intense and ripe, this is a wine that is based around big black fruits as well as fine acidity. It is obviously destined for long aging with its powerful dry tannins and perfumed acidity. Drink this wine from 2028.”
James Suckling 96 points “Aromas of blueberries, blackberries and dried flowers plus hints of slate follow through to a full body, very fine tannins and a driven and linear finish. Orange peel and dried fruit. Sleek and racy. Ready to try in 2024.”
#42 Wine of the Year – James Suckling Top 100 in 2018
Quinta do Noval Vintage Port, Portugal 2016 750ML ($149.95) $119 pre-arrival special
James Suckling 98 points “This is a superb baby Noval that reminds me of the 1966. Chewy yet so polished. The light sweetness suggests an overall dialing back of the sugar content. Stemmy and lightly green. A truly classic Noval. Almost all from Pinhao. Buy. Better in 2025.”
Wine Spectator 97 points “This has terrific energy from the start, with a bramble note inlaid in the core of cherry and plum paste flavors. Sappy, sweet and fresh, with a plum cake-infused finish. Gains focus and polish as it stretches out in the glass.—Non-blind Quinta do Noval vertical (May 2018). Best from 2030 through 2055. 6,000 cases made.”
Mark Squires-Wine Advocate 97 points “The 2016 Vintage Port is a field blend, mostly Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinto Cão and Sousão, aged for 18 months in old wood. It comes in with 82 grams of residual sugar. This was in bottle for only about seven weeks when seen, but I made sure at least some of it had a lot of air. It looks super, with plenty of room to grow in the cellar. Christian Seely likes to say that this regular Noval and the Nacional are not better than one another, just different. In fact, I usually prefer Nacional, but in this vintage I make a case for equality and endorse that view. This was stunning from the first smell, promising concentration, intensity of fruit and great things to come. It had a 100-point nose that made me go “wow!” No wine I tasted had a better nose than this. Violets and blue fruits lead off, with a trace of eucalyptus. I tend to think Noval is a producer that always shows mid-palate finesse, but this seems pretty deep too. It is also intense. The tannins won’t sear your mouth because the balance is impeccable. To be sure, it might close down, but it is surprisingly approachable now, notwithstanding that intensity. Rest assured that this lively young Porto still has all the materials to make old bones. Needless to say, “approachable” does not mean “ready.” You need to toss this in the cellar for a decade, at least. Purists will say to double that or more. When the palate becomes as expressive as the nose—if it does—this will be entitled to an uptick. No pricing was set yet.”
Other 2016 Port, Arriving Later this Month:
W & J Graham’s Vintage Port, Portugal 2016 750ML ($119.95) $99 pre-arrival special
W & J Graham’s Vintage Port, Portugal 2016 375ML ($69.95) $59 pre-arrival special
James Suckling 99 points “Extremely complex aromas that show the classic Graham character of black-fruit marmalade and burnt oranges. Follows through to a full body with great grip at the finish. Lightly sweet. Chewy and powerful. Such a focus at the end.”
Wine Spectator 98 points “This offers a distilled plum and boysenberry essence, with a racy feel, as spearmint and graphite notes drive through. As the finish kicks in, this turns toward the dark side, with ganache, charcoal and tar elements. Has the showy ripeness of the vintage but is backed by a decidedly dry feel on the finish, imparting a sense of precision despite the heft. Best from 2030 through 2055.”
Wine Enthusiast 97 points “Cellar Selection. This finely structured wine is powered by fine tannins and rich fruits. A touch of acidity comes through the rich berry flavors and the concentration of the dark tannins. This wine will certainly age, don’t drink before 2028.”
Wine Advocate 95 points “The 2016 Vintage Port is a blend of 37% Touriga Nacional, 42% Touriga Franca and various others. It comes in with 115 grams of residual sugar. A bit bigger than Dow’s this year, this is more intense as well. The better wine of these two benchmarks seems to be this Graham’s. Tight on the finish, aromatic and very flavorful, this actually opens rather well and shows off its lovely fruit. The Dow’s will be approachable a bit earlier, perhaps, and this may reward aging even more. As always, Graham’s is wonderfully delicious. That’s one hallmark of the house. I’m not sure this is a truly great Graham’s, but at the moment, it is enticing, with plenty of potential for improvement. There were 6,325 cases produced, plus some bottles in other formats.”
#4 Wine of the Year – James Suckling Top 100 in 2018
Taylor Fladgate Vintage Port, Portugal 2016 750ML ($119.95) $99 pre-arrival special
James Suckling 100 points “OMG. This is really the most amazing young Taylor’s I have ever tasted. Full-bodied and lightly sweet with super power and intensity. So racy and focused. Yet this has such muscle and intensity. Needs at least eight years to show you everything it has to offer. Drink in 2025.”
Wine Spectator 98 points “This is packed with raspberry, blackberry and blueberry fruit flavors that play off one another, melding with anise, fruitcake and ganache notes. A warm tarry edge coats the finish, revealing an echo of bramble. A seriously grippy, strapping Port, this revels in its power. Best from 2032 through 2055.”
Wine Enthusiast 98 points “Ripe, structured while also fruity, this intense, perfumed Port is opulent while also elegant. Its tannins and great fruit are finely integrated and are rich with potential. Black fruits, berries and a juicy aftertaste add freshness to the wine. Drink from 2028.”
Neal Martin – Vinous 97 points “In 2016 Taylor’s began picking in Vargellas on 17 September, followed by Pinhão Valley estate on 23 and 26 September. The 2016 Vintage Port has an aristocratic bouquet with tight wound aromas of blackberry, bilberry, crushed stone, black olive and a light, marine-tinged element, perhaps almost peat-like. The palate is just beautiful with fine, chiseled tannins and a perfect line of acidity. There is that almost “arching” structure one always seeks in a great Taylor’s with a gentle but insistent grip towards the finish. It is everything you really want from a Vintage Port. Production is 6,200 cases.”