The 96 Point Lisini Ugolaia Brunello
New Rosenthal Rosés
New Reviews for Clos Erasmus and a Bordeaux Value
2015 Piemonte: The World Class Vintage Begins to Arrive
The Best Value in Chinon?
Trending Wines
A Stunning Set of ’17s from William Fevre
The 96 Point Lisini Ugolaia Brunello
Just Reviewed, Arriving Next Week
Lisini Ugolaia, Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2012 750ML ($119.95) $99 pre-arrival special
Wine Spectator 96 points “A bright and elegant yet taut and structured version, this red features buried cherry, plum, earth, iron and tobacco flavors. Dynamic despite the firm grip of tannins, this should come around in a few years. Licorice and ripe cherry notes mark the finish. Best from 2020 through 2038.”
Also Available, In Stock Now from Lisini:
Lisini Rosso di Montalcino, Tuscany 2016 750ML ($31.95) $26 special
Wine Spectator 90 points “Black cherry, blackberry, iron and wild herb flavors mark this ripe, fruity red, which is well-integrated, with dusty tannins on the finish. Drink now through 2024.”
Lisini Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Tuscany 2013 750ML ($59.95) $48 special
Wine Spectator 96 points “Exuding cherry, strawberry and floral flavors tinged with iron, earth ans spice notes, this ripe red is elegant in profile, tightly wound and deftly balanced, ending with a kick of fruit, spice and mineral elements. Best from 2020 through 2037.”
Lisini Brunello di Montalcino Riserva DOCG, Tuscany 2011 750ML ($89.95) $69 special
Wine Advocate 94+ points “I have not seen a Riserva from Lisini for a while, so this wine comes as a pleasant surprise. The 2011 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva takes us back to one of the warmest vintages in re-cent memory. However, this wine holds nicely with plenty of lush primary fruit to keep it smelling and tasting younger than its years. Dark cherry and dried blackberry rise to the top. Soon to follow are layers of spice and sweet tobacco. The mouthfeel is thickly layered but vel-vety smooth all the while”.
Importer Note: From the superlative Ugolaia cru, a 3.7-acre, southeast-facing vineyard by the same name, planted in 1978 with selected grafts (top grafted onto wild vines by Lisini senior experts). Crops are 1.1 kilo per rootstock, and élevage is 36 months in Slavonian oak barrels (11-20 hl.), followed by 18 months’ bottle age.
Arriving Tomorrow
We have the first few, from fan favorites Peyrassol and Gour de Chaule, arriving tomorrow and couldn’t be more excited. The rest (Pradeaux, etc.) arrive over the next month, but these always are the first true markers of spring for us.
Arriving Tomorrow:
Peyrassol Cotes de Provence ‘Le Clos Peyrassol’ Rose 2018 750ML ($59.95) $49 pre-arrival special
Peyrassol Cotes de Provence ‘Le Clos Peyrassol’ Rose 2018 1.5L ($119.95) $99 pre-arrival special
Peyrassol Cotes de Provence ‘Chateau Peyrassol’ Rose 2018 1.5L ($99.95) $79 pre-arrival special
Peyrassol Cotes de Provence ‘Chateau Peyrassol’ Rose 2018 3L ($199.95) $169 pre-arrival special
*****Shipping Not Available for 6L Bottle*****
Peyrassol Cotes de Provence ‘Commanderie de Peyrassol’ Rose 2018 1.5L ($51.95) $47 pre-arrival special
This is the lowest listed price for a magnum in the USA today!
For Clos Erasmus and a Bordeaux Value
Case-12 Chateau Haut-Bergey, Pessac-Leognan 2007 750ML ($389.95) $299 special
Grapelive 90+ points “This vintage, 2007, is totally under the radar in Bordeaux and while it is never going to be a classic or collectable year for the region there are some fantastic wines and values, including Château Haut-Bergey’s lovely 2007, Cabernet Sauvignon based red from Pessac-Leognan. The 2007 Haut-Bergey’s nose comes across far more mature than the wine is and certainly the fresh palate is much more thrilling than I would have expected, it makes for a great drinking Bordeaux with classic layers of mulberry, currant, cherry and blackberry fruits with touch of graphite, acacia flower, wild plum, tobacco leaf, loamy earth and light cedar notes. This wine gains in personality and charm with air, it finishes with a gorgeous texture and length, making for a wine that way over delivers for the price, even if it will not get too much better with more cellaring. Château Haut-Bergey is located in the heart of the village of Léognan, mecca of Graves which is home to some famous neighboring properties such as Haut-Smith-Laffite, La Louviere, Haut-Brion, La Mission and one of my favorites Château Haut-Bailly, it’s great terroir no question and Haut-Bergey is a great value….the estate is all organic and the biodynamic farming adds to the energy in the wines. Château Haut-Bergey’s red wine is crafted of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon, but with a good dose of Merlot, and some parts of Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec grown on the region’s mix of rounded pebbles, broken stone along with clay, limestone and shelly sand. The rise in [prices in] recent times has made Château Haut-Bergey very attractive for those seeking quality at bargain prices, these wines are exceptional deals especially in less hyped years, as 2007.… with food this wine really comes alive and adds dimension finding a little bit of grip and filling out to a medium full wine. If you find this wine and want a savvy Bordeaux experience, I recommend buying a few bottles to drink over the next 3 to 5 years.”
Jeb Dunnuck 99 points “Not far off the magical 2013, the 2016 Clos Erasmus shows the purity and freshness of the vintage yet backs it up with rock star depth of fruit and richness. A huge nose of blueberries, crème de cassis, blood orange, and violets give way to a full-bodied Priorat that has flawless balance and purity, a stacked mid-palate, ripe tannins, and a finish that goes on for over a minute. This is pure, elegant, yet powerful Priorat at its finest. The 2016 is a blend of 75% Grenache and 25% Syrah that spent 18 months in 40% new oak. Give bottles 2-3 years, count yourself lucky, and enjoy over the following 15-20 years.”
Jeb Dunnuck 95 points “The 2016 Laurel is sensational stuff and, in truth, matches several older vintages of the grand vin in quality. A blend of 80% Grenache, 15% Syrah, and the rest Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 16 months in a mix of oak, concrete, and amphora, this deep purple-colored beauty offers up a fresh, vibrant bouquet of blueberries, crisp plums, violets, and spring flowers. Possessing full-bodied richness, beautiful depth of fruit and richness, and a fresh, elegant style, it’s a brilliant wine that’s going to evolve gracefully for 10-15 years.”
2015 Piemonte
The World Class Vintage Begins to Arrive
We’re finally at the part of the year where the real-deal releases are upon us—all the top names should be arriving at the shop over the next six months or so. Based on what we’ve tasted and read, the hype for the vintage is real and the hype is huge. If you missed out on ’10’s and ’13’s, be warned: these are going to disappear quickly as well. We have new releases from Paitin (in Barbaresco) and Cavallotto arriving early next month as well as a small allocation of E. Pira locked down for the fall. If you love any of these wines, act quickly—they’re going to be in high demand.
Paitin:
Secondo Pasquero-Elia and his two sons, Giovanni and Silvano have enlisted enologist Dante Scaglione (of Bruno Giacosa fame) to draw even more from such an amazing site. The results offer a glimpse into the future of the winery and the wines to come. The wines are solid, deep, and built to last – echoing the family and their tie to their home and spectacular vineyards. From atop the hill where the winery sits, you can overlook the two main vineyard sites and understand the difference in microclimate, soil type and techniques for farming. The Bricco di Nieve side of the hill is steep, breezy and has beautiful older vines that produce the gorgeous sori Paitin Barbaresco. The other side of the hill has the looser iron rich soil that is the Serra vineyard. Tasting the two Barbaresco side by side is a lesson in site location and the unique qualities that can be shown, just a stone’s throw away
Arriving ETA Early May:
Paitin di Pasquero-Elia ‘Sori Paitin Serraboella’, Barbaresco DOCG 2015 750ML ($69.95) $59 pre-arrival special
Paitin di Pasquero-Elia ‘Sori Paitin Serraboella’, Barbaresco DOCG 2015 1.5L ($149.95) $119 pre-arrival special
Wine Spectator 95 points “Sweet cherry and strawberry fruit is framed by earth, eucalyptus, tobacco and tar notes in this rich yet firm red. The assertive tannins suggest a glacial evolution but the lasting impression of fruit shows this wine’s potential. Best from 2022 through 2040. 815 cases made.”
Plus, their late-released Vecchie Vigne from ’11 arrives in May, as well!
Paitin di Pasquero-Elia ‘Sori Paitin Vecchie Vigne’, Barbaresco DOCG 2011 750ML ($89.95) $79 pre-arrival special
Cavallotto:
“Cavallotto may very well be the greatest Barolo producer few people have ever heard of, something that continues to mystify me. Truth is, it isn’t just the Barolos here that are impressive, the entry-level wines are every bit as delicious and well-priced…Readers who appreciate a firm, classic style of Barolo will want to spend some time getting to know Cavallotto.” – Antonio Galloni
Arriving ETA Early May:
Cavallotto Bricco Boschis, Barolo DOCG 2015 750ML ($79.95) $69 pre-arrival special
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 93-95 points “This is a review that looks far, far into the future since this wine is not even technically a Barolo yet. It has not finished its aging process. Tasted from barrel, the 2015 Barolo Bricco Boschis is shaping up beautifully. I tasted it next to the 2013 edition of the same wine that was reviewed last year (with 96+ points). This vintage shows depth and richness with generous texture and fiber. This vintage recalls 2011 and 2017, although it wasn’t quite as scorching hot. Of course, the 2014 vintage was not produced because of hail damage in the vineyard. After 2015, we will be treated to the highly anticipated 2016 edition.”
E. Pira (Chiara Boschis)
“Year in, year out Chiara Boschis quietly makes some of the most compelling wines in Barolo without getting either the attention or recognition of some of her neighbors.” – Antonio Galloni
Arriving ETA October:
E. Pira & Figli Chiara Boschis Cannubi, Barolo DOCG 2015 750ML ($119.95) $99 pre-arrival special
James Suckling 99 points “Impressive roses and finely ground spices with a bright red-cherry core, as well as a fresh wild-herb thread. The sense of focus and purity here is stunning. The palate has a deeply juicy and fresh core of tightly knit tannins that carry immense power with impeccable balance. Elegantly executed wine with profound length. Try from 2025.”
The Best Value in Chinon?
Situated at the highest altitude of all of the parcels, the “Domaine” is a blend of two vineyards. Most of it comes from a vineyard with limestone bedrock, which provides backbone and structure, but some comes from a more gravel heavy vineyard that always emphasizes fruit. The resulting wine is always significantly more approachable than Grezeaux or Clos Guillot, but with enough backbone to age for a decade plus in a good year like ’17. Compared to the Les Granges bottling, it shows much more noble character—this is a wine of real class and breeding. When we taste it in the lineup of Baudry wines, it always seems to be the least expensive of the high end wines, which means it’s also probably the best value of the bunch. We just secured excellent pricing on a lot arriving this summer and at volumes that mean you’ll be able to stock up.
Arriving ETA July:
Bernard Baudry Chinon Cuvee Domaine, Loire 2017 750ML ($27.95) $21.90 pre-arrival special
Case-12 Bernard Baudry Chinon Cuvee Domaine, Loire 2017 750ML ($299.95) $236 pre-arrival special (that’s only $19.67/bottle!)
Winery Note “70% of sandy plateaux over limestone, 30% of gravels. /Vines : Average of 30 to 35 year old vines. / Vinification + Aging : Manual harvest. Two-week fermentation in cement vats, then fifteen-month aging in unlined cement or oak vats. Bottling two springs after harvest. No filtration.”
Xavier Vignon Chateauneuf-du-Pape La Reserve VII IX X, Rhone NV 750ML ($69.95) $59 special
Wine Advocate 96 points “While I reviewed this NV Châteauneuf du Pape La Reserve VII IX X (a blend from the 2007, 2009 and 2010 vintages) last year, I was able to taste it again this go around, and it still blew me away. Fabulously full-bodied and decadent, with loads of lavender, incense, black raspberry and cured-meat nuances, it’s still youthful and vibrant, with notable freshness and purity. Enjoy this brilliant wine through 2028.”
Weingut Willi Haag Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett, Mosel 2016 750ML ($27.95) $21.90 special
David Schildknecht – Vinous “Fresh lime, white peach and apple are incisively tinged with fresh ginger on the nose and on a silken, glycerol-rich palate, displaying textural allure that is regrettably rare among the Willi Haag 2016s. But that sense of richness has not come at the expense of refreshing primary juiciness. Peach kernel and almond lend bittersweet counterpoint, fresh ginger invigoration and a touch of salinity saliva-inducement to a lingering finish.”
Pierre-Marie Chermette Domaine du Vissoux Fleurie les Garants, Beaujolais 2016 750ML ($29.95) $26 special
Josh Raynolds 92 points “Vivid ruby. Aromas of fresh dark berries, candied violet and smoky minerals pick up a hint of allspice with air. Sweet and nicely concentrated, offering juicy boysenberry and blackberry flavors and a touch of licorice. Finishes sappy and smooth, showing excellent persistence, lingering spiciness and dusty tannins that sneak in slowly.”
VinopolNote: Although the recent press for the Mouin-a-Vent has pushed it to the forefront of the Vissoux collection, the two Fleuries from Pierre-Marie Chemette have traditionally been the estate’s calling card. The Garants vineyard is on what the Domaine describes as “noble granite soil” and is the more structured, age-worthy of the two Fleuries (the soil has a definite Morgon influence on the wines). This is rich and structured, with some of the classic perfume of Fleurie, but also an iron-rich depth in its core.
When Bea’s wines hit the shelves, the frenzy begins—especially for the flagship.
Paolo Bea Pagliaro Secco, Sagrantino di Montefalco DOCG 2012 750ML ($109.95) $89 special
Importer Note “The fabled local grape of Montefalco is the Sagrantino and the Pagliaro vineyard, situated at 1300 feet in altitude, is dedicated in large part to this grape variety. The harvest of Sagrantino normally occurs during the second half of October. The cuvaison extends for forty to fifty days. The wines is then aged for one year in stainless steel, another two years in large Slavonian oak barrels and, finally, spends one more year in bottle (the wine, like all Bea wines, is unfiltered) before release. Annual production from the Pagliaro vineyard is 15,000 to 20,000 bottles.”
Conceito Contraste Tinto, Douro 2014 750ML ($19.95) $14 special
Wine Advocate 89 points “The 2014 Contraste Tinto is mostly a field blend from 40-year-old vines, with some separated grapes, aged for 18 months in French oak (third and fourth use). Over the years, this second label has become increasingly interesting on its own. This is a rather respectable performance at this price level in a very shaky vintage. It is actually impressive in structure, showing fine grip on the finish and a bright feel. The mid-palate has respectable depth, too. What it seems to lack, at least now, is the typical flavor and vivid fruit that the bottling often has. Perhaps it will open more. I doubt it will ever be the best of the brand, but you can’t really go wrong at this price for a serious house pour. It will be a fine food wine.”
Goodfellow Family Cellars Bishop Creek Vineyard Pinot Noir, Oregon 2014 750ML ($41.95) $33 special
Josh Raynolds 91 points “Vivid red. A highly perfumed bouquet evokes fresh red berries, cherry, candied flowers and musky earth, backed by a touch of smokiness. Lively black raspberry and floral pastille flavors pick up hints of bitter chocolate and licorice with aeration. The clinging, focused finish features fine-grained, slow-mounting tannins and repeating floral character. Give this one a little air time.”
Grapelive 91 points “Delicately layered and spicy, the 2014 Bishop Creek is a pretty effort, especially for a richer vintage in Oregon. Made by Marcus Goodfellow, the ex-Evesham Wood and Westrey man, [he] is coming into his own as a talent, inspired by Doerner of Cristom and John Paul of Cameron. You can see the style showing through here. Bishop Creek, planted to Pommard and Wadenswil (old Swiss clone), [is] now owned by Nicolas Meo of the famed Burgundy Domaine Meo-Camuzet. [The vineyard] ([which is] not far from Shea Vineyards) formed this wine with its distinct strawberry and racy red cherry core along with the mixed spice, mineral tones and light wood influence. Its southern exposure and Willakenzie soils (dark rocky marine sediment) give warmth and grace. Planted in 1988, the vines ripen without flamboyant extraction, allowing more finesse to show through. At 13.9% this medium weight wine offers fine detail, opulence and restrained, almost earthy, soulfulness. Hints of bitter herb, cedar and candied citrus rind add a tangy note to the whole and the finish echoes the red fruits in subtle fashion with a touch of wilted roses lingering on. It shines right now, though best to enjoy it with cuisine to match as it is a tad shier than other 2014 Oregon Pinots (I’ve tried) and needs time and coaxing to reach its beautiful peak. Best from 2018 to 2022.”
Domaine de Montille Bourgogne Rouge, Burgundy 2016 750ML ($49.95) $39 special
Perseval-Farge C. de Pinots Premier Cru Brut, Champagne NV 750ML ($49.95) $39 special
Importer note “The “C. de Pinots” is a blend of Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. A gentle pressing is done with a vertical press and the juice is vinified in stainless steel vats and in barrels (not new). A part of the wine goes through a malolactic fermentation. This cuvée is typically a blend of several vintages with at least 40% being reserve wine. The Champagne rests 48 months “sur lattes” before being disgorged. The dosage is 7g/L.”
Adriano Marco e Vittorio Barbaresco “Basarin”, Barbaresco DOCG 2015 750ML ($34.95) $28 special
Wine Spectator 93 points “A streak of cherry bisects the supple texture and sleek structure in this elegant red. Hints of licorice, menthol, leather and tobacco add depth as this plays out on the chewy, resonant finish. Best from 2022 through 2038.”
After the warm, rich 2015 and ’16 vintages, 2017 Chablis wines in general feel like a breath of fresh air—fresh, stony, seaside air. Yields were poor in ’17, but luckily for us and for the producers, the quality of what remained was superb—further proof that Burgundy can and will get better and better regardless of what Mother Nature throws its way.
Stylistically, 2017 is a classical vintage with a seductive side. It’s not as bracing as 2014, but shares a similar style of fruit and degree of minerality. These are beautifully Chablisienne wines that nevertheless seem to be delicious right out of the gate. The wines are marked by their chalky, smoky intensity. A character branded into the vineyards by Kimmeridgian soil. And the professional reviews gush with mineral descriptors for the entire collection on offer: from notes of “oyster shell,” “sea breeze,” and “iodiney minerality” – these are wines as intensely mineral as one could want in a fine Chablis. We’re head over heels for the wines and have a nice selection of these ’17’s arriving early this summer, though you should stock up now because quantities are limited.
Arriving ETA June:
William Fevre Beauroy, Chablis Premier Cru 2017 750ML ($59.95) $49 pre-arrival special
Neal Martin – Vinous 89-91 points “The 2017 Chablis Beauroy 1er Cru, which is vinified 30% in barrel and the rest in tank, has a clean, precise bouquet with fresh yellow fruit mixed with cold stone and dandelion scents. The palate is lively and fresh on the entry, an effervescent Beauroy with hints of lemon and orange zest on the effervescent finish. I would just like more depth here, but it should age well.”
Burghound 88-91 points “There is a back wisp of exoticism to the ripe and fresh aromas of white orchard fruit, petrol and discreet honeysuckle nuances. The exceptionally rich flavors possess reasonably good verve if only average concentration though they offer good persistence on the citrusy, clean and balanced finale.”
William Kelley – Wine Advocate 90-93 points “The 2017 Chablis Grand Cru Bougros is also very promising, offering up an attractive bouquet of peach, pastry cream and Meyer lemon. On the palate, it’s medium to full-bodied, bright and tangy, with a textural attack but good underlying tension and stony grip.”
Burghound 90-92 points “A cool and ripe nose features notes of pear and apple that possess background nuances of iodine and seashell. There is excellent mid-palate concentration to the big, very rich and concentrated flavors that display a very round and suave mouth feel, all wrapped in a powerful, dry and slightly rustic finale. This muscular effort delivers sneaky good length and if it can develop more depth than I imagine with time in bottle, it’s possible that my projected range will be exceeded.”
Neal Martin 90-92 points “The 2017 Chablis Bougros Grand Cru suffered a lot of frost damage and was picked at less than 20hl/ha. It has a refined bouquet, nicely delineated if just missing a little focus and energy. The palate is well balanced with good salinity on the entry, but the remainder of the palate does not follow through with the same precision and tension as the other Grand Crus.”
The next best price is $89.95
William Kelley – Wine Advocate 92-94 points “The 2017 Chablis Grand Cru Bougros Côte Bouguerots is also excellent, unwinding in the glass with aromas of salty oystershells, smoky reduction, crisp peach and wet stones. On the palate, it’s full-bodied, chalky and taut, with bright acids, good concentration and a mineral finish.”
Neal Martin – Vinous 92-94 points “The 2017 Chablis Bougros Côte Bouquerots Grand Cru, picked around 23hl/ha, has a detailed bouquet with Granny Smith, grass clipping, white flower and orange pith scents that are very well defined and seem to gain intensity with aeration. The palate is very well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, a little fatter and weightier than the regular Bougros with quite an intense, saline finish. Excellent.”
Burghound 91-94 points “A deft touch of wood can be found on the cool and equally pure aromas of various citrus, spiced pear and oyster shell hints. There is fine density and punch to the brooding and powerful large-scaled flavors that brim with minerality on the tightly coiled bitter lemon-inflected finish where the wood telegraphed by the nose resurfaces.”
William Fevre Fourchaume, Chablis Premier Cru 2017 750ML ($79.95) $59 pre-arrival special
Burghound 89-91 points “A ripe and agreeably fresh nose reflects mild exotic influences to the iodine, quinine and dried yellow orchard fruit aromas. The exceptionally rich flavors are suave and seductive, indeed the word opulent comes to mind, all wrapped in a generously proportioned, round and relatively forward finish.”
Neal Martin – Vinous 88-90 points “The 2017 Chablis Fourchaume 1er Cru does not come from estate fruit but three contracted growers. It has a clean and precise honeysuckle scented bouquet, very understated in style. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, modest weight in the mouth but it is just missing the precision of say, William Fèvre’s Mont de Milieu on the finish.”
William Fevre Les Clos, Chablis Grand Cru 2017 750ML ($149.95) $119 pre-arrival special
William Kelley – Wine Advocate 93-95+ points “The 2017 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos is potentially the finest of Fèvre’s 2017s, offering up notes of citrus oil, confit lemon, beeswax and sweet white flowers. On the palate, it’s full-bodied, glossy and rich, with a deep, firm core and chewy extract, balanced by juicy acids. It’s a powerful, complete Les Clos that’s built for the long haul.”
Burghound 92-94 points “Here too there is enough wood to merit mentioning on the decidedly cool and reserved nose that offers up plenty of floral elements along with those of citrus, iodine and oyster shell. The lavishly rich, muscular and overtly powerful flavors possess the hallmark minerality that carries over to the dense, citrusy and very dry finish. This beauty should age effortlessly.”
Neal Martin – Vinous 91-93 points “The 2017 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru, from 4 hectares at the top of the hill, was harvested at around 23-24hl/ha. It has a very precise bouquet with oyster leaf, Granny Smith apples, wet granite and hints of almond that gain intensity with aeration. The palate is very well balanced with a touch of roundness on the entry that is counterbalanced by fine bead of acidity. There is wonderful salinity and a dash of spice on the finish. This is a Chablis that should give at least a decade’s worth of drinking pleasure.”
William Fevre Les Lys, Chablis Premier Cru 2017 750ML ($59.95) $49 pre-arrival special
Burghound 90-92 points “A perfumed nose offers up cooler notes of iodine, floral, citrus and white orchard fruit and in particular pear. Yet again there is a plethora of Chablis elements present on the vibrant, intense and well-detailed medium weight flavors that are a lovely combination of richness and finesse, all wrapped in a moderately dry, balanced and sneaky long finish. Worth considering.”
Neal Martin – Vinous 90-92 points “From one-hectare on the top of the slope, the 2017 Chablis Les Lys 1er Cru has an attractive orange blossom and beeswax scented bouquet that opens nicely in the glass. The palate is quite concentrated due to the relatively lower yield, touches of orange peel and pear with impressive weight on the finish. This lesser-known Premier Cru is well worth seeking out.”
Neal Martin – Vinous 91-93 points “The 2017 Chablis Mont de Milieu 1er Cru comes from just 0.5-ha of vine that was affected by frost, so yield was just 10hl/ha. It has an attractive, marine-tinged bouquet with touches of oyster leaf and citrus fruit. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, just the right amount of bitterness to keep you coming back for another sip. This is one of Fèvre’s best Premier Crus.”
Burghound 90-92 points “A discreet application of wood sets off mildly exotic aromas that are composed of mineral reduction, apricot, white peach and ample Chablis typicity. The very rich, impressively concentrated and much bigger flavors brim with dry extract that imparts a sappy texture to the powerful and muscular finish that flirts with rusticity but doesn’t quite cross the line. This too is good stuff.”
Neal Martin – Vinous 91-93 points “The 2017 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre 1er Cru comes from 2.2-ha of vine, harvested around 22hl/ha. It has a crisp, slightly floral bouquet with oyster leaf, dill, fresh citrus fruit and a touch of wet limestone. The palate is lively and fresh in the mouth and shows a little more depth and concentration than the Mont de Milieu. It flows and fans out nicely towards the finish and should offer several years of drinking pleasure”
Burghound 90-93 points “An elegant, pure and airy nose combines notes of white flowers, citrus, lemon-lime and plenty of classic Chablis character. There is also excellent volume, density and power to the refined medium-bodied flavors that presently are not quite as complex as they usually are on the lingering finish. The underlying material however appears to be first-rate and as such my predicted range offers the benefit of the doubt that more depth will develop with time.”
William Fevre Montmains, Chablis Premier Cru 2017 750ML ($59.95) $49 pre-arrival special
William Kelley – Wine Advocate 90-92 points “The 2017 Chablis 1er Cru Montmains exhibits notes of salty oystershells, crushed chalk, tart green apple and white flowers. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, dense and concentrated, with a firm, backward profile and tangy balancing acids. It’s derived from 12 parcels, and some 40% of the cuvée hails from Butteaux. It’s very promising.”
Burghound 88-90 points “The nose immediately makes this wine’s origins clear with its lovely aromas of oyster shell, iodine and green apple-scented aromas. There is an appealing sense of vibrancy to the delicious, intense and super-saline-inflected flavors that contrast considerably with the lavishly rich and somewhat sweet finale. A curious effort as the nose is very Chablis yet the flavors, stylistically speaking, suggest the Mâconnais.”
Neal Martin – Vinous 88-90 points “The 2017 Chablis Montmains 1er Cru was blended the previous week. The bouquet is attractive with honeysuckle and light sea spray aromas. The palate is well balanced with a smooth entry, the 30% barrel ageing lending a pleasant roundness without impeding upon the terroir. It attenuates just a little towards the finish, but otherwise this is a competent but not dazzling Montmains and I have a preference for the Vaillons or Les Lys.”
William Fevre Les Preuses, Chablis Grand Cru 2017 750ML ($119.95) $99 pre-arrival special
Neal Martin – Vinous 93-95 points “The 2017 Chablis Les Preuses Grand Cru has a well defined bouquet with hints of white flower, nettle and dandelion augmenting the green apple and spicy aromas. The palate is powerful on the entry, very intense and focused with a precise and detailed finish that is one of the best that the domaine produced on the finish. Excellent.”
William Kelley – Wine Advocate 92-95 points “The 2017 Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses is a pretty, delicate wine, exhibiting lovely aromas of orange blossom, mandarin, oystershell and lemon oil. On the palate, it’s ample, full-bodied and elegant, with a tense, stony core and fine-boned structure. Right now, it doesn’t have the weight of the Côte Bouguerots, but it’s beautifully detailed and refined.”
Burghound 92-94 points “As is virtually always the case, this is more elegant than the Valmur with its ripe, pure and airy aromas of lavender, green apple, citrus and white orchard fruit scents. There is very good density to the relatively restrained medium-bodied flavors that possess plenty of minerality on the rich, sappy and palate coating finale. A wine of class, refinement and finesse.”
William Fevre Vaillons, Chablis Premier Cru 2017 750ML ($59.95) $49 pre-arrival special
Neal Martin – Vinous 90-92 points “The 2017 Chablis Vaillons 1er Cru comes from 3.6-hectares located mainly in the heart of the valley. It offers light pressed flower scents on the nose with hints of nettle and dandelion. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, crisp and taut with a precise finish that just needs to develop a little more power. Very fine.”
Burghound 89-92 points “A more floral suffused nose flashes good Chablis typicity with its notes of petrol, pear and ocean breeze. Here too there is fine vibrancy to the sleeker and slightly finer medium weight flavors that offer both good minerality and salinity on the more harmonious finish. Lovely stuff.”
William Kelley – Wine Advocate 89-91 points “Notes of pastry cream, white peach, citrus oil and spring flowers introduce the 2017 Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons, a tangy, medium-bodied wine that’s supple and structurally open-knit. While I found it somewhat ephemeral, Didier Séguier contends that it’s one of the highlights of the portfolio: let’s see how it performs from bottle.”
William Fevre Valmur, Chablis Grand Cru 2017 750ML ($119.95) $99 pre-arrival special
William Kelly – Wine Advocate 92-94 points “The 2017 Chablis Grand Cru Valmur was cropped at less than 20 hectoliters per hectare this year, but it remains quite classic in profile, unfurling in the glass with notes of green orchard fruit, lemon oil and anise, framed by light reduction. On the palate, it’s full-bodied, glossy and concentrated, with bright acids, a tight-knit core and a long, mineral finish. It’s a promising Valmur.”
Neal Martin – Vinous 91-93 points “The 2017 Chablis Valmur Grand Cru, harvested at less than 20hl/ha due to frost, has a clean and precise apple blossom, orange pith and white chocolate-tinged bouquet that gradually opens with time. The palate is well balanced with crisp acidity, full of tension and with good bite, leading to a saline finish that gets the taste buds going. Very classic in style, this should age nicely in bottle.”
Burghound 90-92 points “A citrus and mineral reduction tinged nose is comprised mostly of green fruit and honeysuckle nuances. The palate impression is much like that of the Bougros as the big-bodied flavors are dense and muscular while exhibiting excellent power on the only moderately complex if solidly persistent finish.”
Burghound 91-94 points “A background application of wood is present on the vaguely exotic aromas of dried pear, apple, white peach and quinine. There is both excellent delineation and punch to the notably saline-inflected flavors that possess good punch while retaining a lovely sense of refinement on the impressively complex and persistent finish. This is lovely juice that should age well over the mid-term.”
Neal Martin – Vinous 91-93 points “The 2017 Chablis Vaudésir Grand Cru has a well defined bouquet, quite complex with scents of honeysuckle, citrus peel, a faint touch of nougat and almond lending a soupçon of exoticism. The palate is well defined with a crisp, taut line of acidity. I admire the focus of this Vaudésir with a lightly spiced, quite tensile finish that lingers in the mouth. Excellent.”
William Kelley – Wine Advocate 91-93 points “The 2017 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir exhibits pretty aromas of spring flowers, orange blossom and white peach. On the palate, it’s medium to full-bodied, tangy and taut, with a lean, structural profile. It will likely fill out with further élevage.”
William Kelley – Wine Advocate 92-94 points “The 2017 Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorent promises to be the finest of Fèvre’s premiers crus this year, unfurling in the glass with a classy bouquet of peach, oystershell, iodine and spice, framed by light reduction. On the palate, it’s medium to full-bodied, ample and textural, with lovely stony depth and tension, concluding with a saline finish. Perhaps it’s simply the power of association, but I’m tempted to identify an echo of neighboring Les Preuses here.”
Neal Martin – Vinous 92-94 points “The 2017 Chablis Vaulorent 1er Cru is the richest of William Fèvre’s wines on the nose, despite just a touch of reduction. It has a complex bouquet with scents of toffee apple, honeysuckle, marzipan and almond that is very well defined. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, very harmonious in the mouth with tangy marmalade and citrus lemon on the finish. Excellent.”
Burghound 90-93 points “A restrained nose is comprised by notes of smoky reduction, sea breeze and a whiff of exotic fruit. The super-rich, dense and very suave flavors coat the palate with sappy dry extract while the powerful and focused finish delivers outstanding length.”
Domaine William Fevre Sauvignon de Saint-Bris, Burgundy 2017 750ML ($24.95) $19 pre-arrival special
Sauvignon Blanc