The Final Round of 2018 Terry Theise Offers:
Von Winning, Schlossgut Diel and Spreitzer
New Reviews from Wine Spectator and Grapelive
New Regional Spanish Treasures
From Fedellos do Couto, Celler del Roure, and Javi Revert
Last Chance on Special Pricing for Francesco Rinaldi
Trending Wines
The Final Round of 2018 Terry Theise Offers
Today we’re featuring our final three producers: Von Winning, Schlossgut Diel and Weingut Spreitzer, all of whom made fantastic wines in 2018. 2018 is a year not to miss for lovers of German Riesling—it reminds us of a more intense 2016 (or perhaps 2007), with the good producers making fantastic Riesling that’s rich, powerful and yet lyric at the same time.
All wines arriving ETA December
They also make some of the best Sauvignon Blanc in the world—rich, textural examples that move beyond varietal characteristics and into unique territory. Their closest comparison is probably the top Sauvignon of Friuli (eg, Miani, Ronco del Gnemiz) or the very best estates in Austria (in Styria). These, too, are not to be missed (plus there’s a really delicious, excellent value bubbly in the mix, as well.
Von Winning Deidesheimer Paradiesgarten Riesling Trocken, Pfalz 2018 750ML ($37.95) $29 pre-arrival special
Terry Theise note “The best vintage I recall of this surprising wine; curvaceous and leafy, the often-noted caraway seed nuance, along with ‘18s beaming plum-blossom aromas and the fennel and mirabelle-drenched palate could hardly be more fetching. The salty finish also doesn’t hurt!”
Terry Theise note “Many growers would bottle this wine as a GG; it’s probably the best site in Ruppertsberg (though Bürklin has a claim with its monopole Gaisböhl); this ’18 is peachy, sweet white corn, chervil and tarragon; it’s more melodic than Paradiesgarten but with an aloe vera and sorrel note common to good ‘18s; it’s the most appealing of the 1er Lages, sweet-natured and with a lovely grace.”
Terry Theise note “Along with Künstler this is the best estate Riesling in the portfolio, and the best that could be conceived. As proud as they justly are of their lordly GGs, this is the wine that shows their true genius. An utter classic Pfalz, with euphoric fruit, classic earthiness, lip-smacking balance, enticing saltiness.”
Terry Theise note “How did I ever live without von Winning Sauvignon Blanc? I mean really. And how did they ever forgive my stubborn reluctance to taste these wines all those years ago? Attmann doesn’t look to the Loire for his model; he looks to White Bordeaux, and if he doesn’t deliberately look to Styria, his wines themselves do, to the volcanic zone around Kitzeck and also in southeast-Styria. He will protest that his wines don’t have the (often) excessive alcohol of the top Styrians—correctly—but I’m talking more about flavors per se. The “500,” named after the casks in which it is raised, extends this smokiness past the frontier of the “varietal” and entirely into eros and witchcraft and incense and voodoo.”
Terry Theise note ” The 2018 “I” recalls my all-time favorite 2013, and only ‘18’s jalapeño nibble obtrudes upon its eerie serenity.”
Terry Theise note ” The basic 2018 is direct and red-peppery. The palate is fun, a little phenolic at the end; it reminds me of the Vetiver “X-Treme” of Guerlin. It’s a little yawp-y and frisky.”
Terry Theise note “A pre-disgorgement sample based on 2017, to be disgorged “when we need it,” yet this feels quite complete and stylish; a super-pretty Pfalz Riesling aroma, angular and herbal but creamy and warm like sunny flowering meadows; this is actually outstanding and I hope it persists after disgorging.”
Terry Theise note “Obviously it’s premature to note such an embryonic wine, but it was striking in all its carrot elements, carrot greens plus chervil plus yellow beets, with little of the usual apricot. I can only say the wine seemed savory and food-like, and we’ll see what happens.”
Schlossgut Diel Eierfels Riesling Trocken, Nahe 2018 750ML ($41.95) $33 pre-arrival special
Terry Theise note “This is like “Der Ott,” the top dry wine below the GGs, using (mostly) the material deemed insufficient for those lofty boys, but this vintage is ideal; more generous now, and with a toasted scree and conifer profile, a minerally German Riesling in a more yielding matrix; it’s still a most-particular kind of wine, but it’s welcoming rather than forbidding.”
Schlossgut Diel Dorsheimer Goldloch Riesling Auslese, Nahe 2018 1.5L ($119.95) $99 pre-arrival special
Terry Theise note “For me this is an Auslese Ideal—“drinky” and euphoric and complete, energetically rippling and waving towards its brightness and acidity. Again, the finish is sweet and it’s not a dinner wine, but as an object it’s a ginger-candy DEE-LITE.”
Schlossgut Diel Dorsheimer Pittermannchen Riesling Kabinett, Nahe 2018 750ML ($41.95) $33 pre-arrival special
Terry Theise note “Classic, slate and ginger, spiced apple and sassafras, and racy as all get-out.”
Terry Theise note “There were two options. A drier one is classic, upholstered, earthy and dense with just an edge of sweetness, rural and with a fragrance of leaf-decay. The “sweeter” wine ran to the usual violet and lavender but showed a sweet finish, and yet the wine’s more playful. You guessed it; we blended them and enjoyed much of the best of both worlds, though Andi will keep at it until he gets the exact one he wants. I want this wine to be earnest and Jesuitical and also delicious. Tall order, but Andi’s a pretty tall guy.”
Weingut Josef Spreitzer Oestricher Lenchen Riesling Kabinett, Rheingau 2018 750ML ($27.95) $21.90 pre-arrival special
Terry Theise note “We made it drier, at which point it showed more mid-palate and less elbows-and-knees, becoming a frisky balanced wine with a crisp finish; mirabelles, yellow fruits and lemon-zest, salty and salivating. This wine has come a long way from the simpler and fruitier wine it once was.”
Weingut Josef Spreitzer ‘303’ Oestricher Lenchen Riesling Spatlese, Rheingau 2018 750ML ($59.95) $49 pre-arrival special
Terry Theise note “The cadaster is called Eiserberg (iron hill), from which a record-setting wine of 303º Oechsle was gathered back in the 1920s. The record’s since been broken but come on; this is the climate-change era. This ’18 has a blatant fragrance of iron, white flowers and pickled ginger and a mass of pulverized mineral; it’s as sleek as the 2004 and yet as rich as the 2015, and if there’s any botrytis it’s clean and discreet. The sweetness is taut and buzzing. The most exciting vintage in many years! What is this wine, though? It’s somewhat too rich and intense for a typical Spätlese and too buoyant for a typical Auslese, and so it becomes a wine that’s oblique to the notion of “utility,” how it might be used. This can drive you crazy unless you can somehow cherish the whole idea of a wine existing merely because it is beautiful. OK, yes, that’s all well and good, but at some point we decide to open it, and then what, when, why, how? My only answer would be, that we contrive the occasion for the wine to be like a painting on your wall; you look at it and are happier and richer. It doesn’t have to “perform” in any way. It simply returns your life to you as a finer and deeper matter. And if a painting can do this, why not a wine?”
Weingut Josef Spreitzer ‘Rosengarten’ Riesling Grosses Gewachs, Rheingau 2018 750ML ($59.95) $49 pre-arrival special
Terry Theise note “Herbs, quince, mint, pea-shoot and a curious underlying stoniness; it made me think of oolongs and Sencha and grassy green teas; a singular Riesling of leaf upon leaf.”
Weingut Josef Spreitzer Wisselbrunnen GG 2018 750ML ($59.95) $49 pre-arrival special
Terry Theise note “I can’t recall when a young Wisselbrunnen was this present, even more than the ’17 was. There’s a fine refined aroma of hickory nuts and conifer, that leads into a serious and suavely firm and substantive palate with lots of echo and umami, and then a stoniness enters, and the finish just doesn’t quit. Reminds me of 2012 at its graceful best, and it’s a pure Rheingau Grand Cru (at least from the riverfront), self-assured but not haughty.”
Chateau de Saint Cosme Gigondas, Rhone 2017 750ML ($49.95) $39 special
Case-12 Chateau de Saint Cosme Gigondas, Rhone 2017 750ML ($599.95) $419 special (that’s only $34.92/bottle!)
Wine Spectator 93 points
Bodegas Hidalgo “Tradicion H” Viura, Rioja 2016 750ML ($34.95) $27 special
Grapelive 91 points “The Bodega Basilio…in partnership with famous Sherry house Hilalgo makes a 100% Viura Rioja Blanco, a very unique white wine.… This rare bottling was done as a customer request and little is known about it, except that this Viura was aged in three Manzanilla casks brought from Hidalgo in Sanlúcar de Barrameda in the Sherry region and that Basilio managed to develop a veil of flor for three months, so it is crazy stuff and not like any white Rioja I’ve ever tried. Viura is fairly concentrated and can be as intense as Sancerre, with Sauvignon Blanc like characteristics, which married to a dusty dry, brisk, nutty and saline layer, adds a Sherry like dimension…. this not a wine that is not easily explained…but it is invigorating and lively and gives a brisk and complex performance in the glass with less oxidative character than you’d find in a traditional Sherry, making more easy to enjoy for the less adventurous and it’s great with Tapas and salty snacks, while also with enough depth to handle more robust cuisine. There is layers of lemon/lime, gooseberry, salted rock, almond oil, dried pineapple, kumquat and quince along with a hint of orange blossom, verbena balsam and ginger/peach tea. Also, once open and warming in the glass you get wet chalk, herb and grapefruit rind. This is zingy stuff, combining texture and savory elements and as mentioned totally unique, it’s kind of kinky, like Jura meets Muscadet with a Spanish twist, it’s an aperitif style white to enjoy with salty or briny starters and or cured ham and hard sleep cheeses. This lightly gold tinted white by Basilio Izquierdo is an intriguing exercise that might not be made again, though I admit, it is much better than I thought it would be and without question well crafted, drink it over the next 3 to 5 years.”
All Wines Arriving Friday
Fedellos do Couto ‘Conasbrancas’, Ribeira Sacra 2016 750ML ($34.95) $28 pre-arrival special
Luis Gutierrez – Wine Advocate 93 points “I tasted the 2016s and 2017s of all the wines, including the white. A blend of local varieties from the village of Soutipedre in Manzaneda in the Bibei Valley, the 2016 Conasbrancas uses the white grapes from different vineyards—50% Godello, 25% Dona Blanca and the rest Treixadura, Lado, Albariño and Torrontés. Seventy percent of the volume fermented in plastic bins with full clusters, the rest was pressed and the juice fermented in barrique. The wine matured in 300- and 500-liter oak barrels for seven months without bâtonnage and a small part went through malolactic fermentation. It has a developed and complex note with aromas of chamomile, hay, straw and pollen, really expressive and showy in a sort of a developed Hermitage way, with a faint honeyed note. It has a lively palate that’s very expressive, with very fine tannins and a mineral, stony sensation that provides tastiness and length. This has to be the finest Conasbrancas to date. 4,000 bottles were filled in June 201
Luis Gutierrez – Wine Advocate 94 points “The 2016 Lomba dos Ares is the village red from different parishes of Manzaneda (Soutipedre, Seoane and Langullo), and the old vineyards (mostly over 60 years old) are planted with a myriad of grapes, mainly Mencía, yes, but also Grao Negro, Negreda, Garnacha Tintorera, Bastardo and Aramón. The full clusters fermented at cold temperature with indigenous yeasts, and the wine matured in 300- and 500-liter used French oak barrels and one 3,200-liter oak vat for ten months. This is super expressive, with a flinty sensation; it’s a little reductive, serious and more insinuating, with a chiseled palate and a strong mineral sensation, long and tasty. This is a superb Lomba dos Ares, the finest vintage to date. 5,500 bottles were filled in December 2017.”
Luis Gutierrez – Wine Advocate 95 points “Produced with a mixture of Bastarda/Merenzao/Trousseau grapes from two different subzones of Ribeira Sacra Riberas do Sil and Bibei, the 2016 Bastarda is better than any previous vintage. It fermented with full clusters and matured in a combination of used French oak barrels and concrete vats for seven months. It was really singing wen I tasted it, with ethereal notes of rose water, wild herbs and small berries, aromatic, perfumed, elegant and subtle. The palate is as expressive as the nose, with ultra fine tannins and a stony, dry sensation that gives it seriousness and length. This is a stunning expression of the grape. Bravo! 6,500 bottles were filled in June 2017.”
Celler del Roure ‘Cullerot’, Valencia 2017 750ML ($19.95) $16 pre-arrival special
Importer Note “When Pablo Calatayud founded Celler del Roure in 1995 he chose as its setting an ancient country estate outside of Moixent. For centuries this was an integrated farm producing grain, almonds, olives and grapes with unsubtle evidence for the production of olive oil and wine – a large, stone, olive press and extensive subterranean cellar with dozens of intact 17th century amphorae. It took a few years of research and restoration but Pablo is using these clay vessels to make wine once again. Cullerot, which means tadpole, is the white that Pablo makes in the old cellar utilizing heirloom and indigenous varieties including Macabeo, Malvasía, Pedro Ximénez, Verdil and others.”
Luis Gutierrez – Wine Advocate 92+ points “Only in its second vintage, the 2016 Safrà is already a reference for the winery—it’s more vibrant and livelier than Parotet but produced with the same grape, Mandó, which is complemented here with 10% each Garnacha Tintorera and Monastrell. It fermented in stainless steel and stone lagars with 30% full clusters and indigenous yeasts. Malolactic was in amphorae, where the wine matured for some six months. It has plenty of aromatic herbs, balsamic; in a way, it reminded me of a vermouth. At the end of the day, 2016 was a short vintage—the grapes ripened earlier, so they harvested them pretty early, keeping the freshness. The palate is light to medium-bodied but very tasty, with deep flavors and great persistence; it has more concentration than it seems. It’s not as light as the 2015 and feels more complete. They used more stems than in the initial vintage, and that also helped to keep the freshness and balance the juicier fruit. It feels like a good improvement over the previous year, a very good value and the benchmark for Mandó reds. 15,000 bottles were filled in July 2017.”
Javi Revert ‘Micalet’ Blanco, Valencia 2017 750ML ($39.95) $33 pre-arrival special
Luis Gutierrez – Wine Advocate 93 points ” The grapes for the white 2017 Micalet were picked the 29th of August, very early, but as the vineyard is in the process of being recovered, it yielded more grapes than the previous year. Here the field blend is mostly Tortosí, Trepadell and Merseguera, complemented by Malvasía and Verdil. He picked 4,400 kilos from 2.5 hectares—some 30% more than he got in 2016—and the grapes were picked a little less ripe to keep the acidity and pH in a warm year like 2017. All of the grapes were picked at the same time and pressed together; the juice was let to settle and fermented in stainless steel with indigenous yeasts, and then part of the volume was transferred to barrel to finish fermenting there. The wine in barrel was kept there without racking for eight months, and the rest was moved to glass demijohns, where it was kept with the lees, which were not stirred. It’s a subtle Mediterranean white with spice and herbs, a hint of pollen and a nutty touch. It has a precise palate with the chalky texture from the limestone soils that also give it a saline character that makes it super tasty, almost salty. This is a great Mediterranean white that transcends the year, as the vineyard is in the process of being recovered, and the wine has even less alcohol. 2,500 bottles were filled in May 2018.”
Luis Gutierrez – Wine Advocate 91 points “The red 2017 Sensal is a blend of Garnacha Tintorera and 30% Monastrell, with each variety from one vineyard, but in the future, it will contain Monastrell from one more vineyard and Garnacha that was planted in a new plot. The name is provided by the Garnacha Tintorera plot, a vineyard planted in 1965 on limestone soils. The two varieties fermented separately with some full clusters, then the wines were blended and matured in used French oak barrels for ten months. It feels quite ripe and a bit heady, and it’s powerful, concentrated and juicy, with notes of black olive and black berries. It’s rounder and gentler than the 2016, but it’s a powerful and rustic red, thinking that it has a majority of Garnacha Tintorera. 1,800 bottles produced. It was bottled in July 2018.”
Luis Gutierrez – Wine Advocate 93+ points “There is yet another red, the 2016 Simeta, a single-vineyard Arcos (a variety with a long cycle) from a plot planted in 1970 on sand and clay soils. The grapes fermented with 60% full clusters, with the last of the fermentation in clay amphorae, where it rested for eight months followed by two months in glass demijohns. Arcos is sometimes called Arco and other similar names, and they all seem to be the same variety. Apparently, it’s an autochthonous grape, and 100 years ago some 70% of the plantings were of this grape. It’s a long-cycle variety (ripens later than the Monastrell), with thick skins, very resistant to rot, very apt for the Mediterranean climate. There is good ripeness, in a northern Rhône way, juicy and keeping the freshness. At times, it also reminded me of some reds from Ribeira Sacra (Lousas from Envínate) or a Garnacha from Gredos (Comando G), but it also had a Mediterranean accent. I found this fascinating, juicy and tasty. 1,010 bottles were filled in July 2017.”
For Francesco Rinaldi
These are some thrilling wines that are always priced very attractively, an amazing feat considering the history and renown of the estate. They’re best known for their two cru bottlings, Cannubi and Brunate, which are from some of the most storied vineyards in all of Barolo, but don’t sleep on their Barolo normale. All three wines are extremely ageworthy, but the 2015’s seem to show a bit more flesh and early drinkability than usual.
We’re getting the collection of new Barolos, plus their super-value Dolcetto, this coming Friday (August 23rd) and we’re going to offer you even better pricing than usual, until the wines arrive. These prices go up on the 24th, so now is the prime time to stock up.
Arriving Friday, August 23rd:
Francesco Rinaldi & Figli Cannubbio, Barolo DOCG 2015 750ML ($79.95) Will be $69, Now $59 pre-arrival special
Decanter 93 points “The source of this very traditional wine is Rinaldi’s 2.2ha holding in Cannubi Boschis. It can be a very structured wine, but in 2015 there’s greater opulence than usual. Tasted from cask, it displays heady juicy raspberry aromas, discreet but perfumed. It’s concentrated on the palate but also fresh and silky, combining lush textures with tension and drive thanks to welcome acidity on the persistent finish. Drinking Window 2021 – 2038.”
Importer Note “The other single vineyard bottling is the Cannubi, which is made from the single greatest vineyard in the village of Barolo, as well as one of the most famous individual crus in the entire region. Cannubi was the first vineyard name to be famous in the Barolo region, and to this day a bottle of 1752 Cannubi is still treasured by the wine-producing family of Manzone, and is considered the oldest, extant bottle of Barolo still in existence. The vineyard is most famous for the fabulously perfumed wines that it produces, for Cannubi is not the most powerful cru in Barolo, and much like Romanée-Conti in Burgundy, it is cherished for the fabulously complex aromatics and round, suave palate impression that it provides when fully mature. This is not to say that Luciano and Paula Rinaldi’s Cannubi is a delicate wine, for it is a deep, intensely-flavored and concentrated Barolo of great pedigree and elegance- once it is fully mature. Like the Rinaldi Brunate bottling, eight to ten years is required in top vintages, and the wine is really at its blazing best at age fifteen to twenty.”
Francesco Rinaldi & Figli Barolo Brunate, Barolo DOCG 2015 750ML ($79.95) Will be $59, Now $53.50 pre-arrival special
Importer Note “The two flagship bottlings at Francesco Rinaldi e Figli are the single cru Baroli, Brunate and Cannubi. Brunate is one of the greatest vineyards the Barolo region, lying on the border between La Morra and Barolo proper, with each village sharing the vineyard (though with the lion’s share lying within the village boundaries of La Morra). Wines from the Brunate vineyard are prized for their depth, power and brilliant balance, and the example from Francesco Rinaldi e Figli is one of the very greatest examples of Brunate made. In a great vintage it demands at least a decade to really begin to soften, and generally is not in full bloom until its twentieth birthday.”
Francesco Rinaldi & Figli Barolo DOCG, Piedmont 2015 750ML ($59.95) Will be $49, Now $45 pre-arrival special
Importer Note “Francesco Rinaldi e Figli makes two non-cru denominated bottlings, one of Barbaresco and one of Barolo, made from a blend of different parcels. The Barolo is made from vineyards in the towns of Barolo, Castiglione Faletto and La Morra…the standard Barolo bottling is aged for three years in large cask before it is bottled and made available for sale. Both wines are built for aging, and typically will be at their best from six to ten years out from the vintage. Like all of the wines from Giuseppe and Paola Rinaldi, they are beautiful, classic expressions of their underlying terroirs, with well-integrated tannins, tangy acids and beautiful complexity and balance. Both improve immeasurably if decanted an hour prior to serving.”
Francesco Rinaldi & Figli Dolcetto d’Alba Roussot, Piedmont 2018 750ML ($24.95) $18 pre-arrival special
Importer Note “The lower level wines are superb examples of their genres, with impressive depth, complexity and classic structures…[like] he round, full-bodied and surprisingly serious Dolcetto d’Alba “Roussot” from vineyards located within the cru of Cannubi.”
Trending Wines
Descendientes de J. Palacios ‘Petalos’, Bierzo 2016 750ML ($24.95) $18 special
Case-12 Descendientes de J. Palacios ‘Petalos’, Bierzo 2016 750ML ($279.95) $199 special (that’s only $16.58/bottle!)
Wine Advocate 92+ points “I tasted two vintages of their entry-level wine because the 2016 Pétalos del Bierzo was sold out and the 2017 has already been released. Depending on the vintage, they use more or less white grapes in the fermentation, and in 2016 it was around 6%. It has an elegant profile, clean, floral and spicy, with a soft palate and subtle acidity that gives it a kick and makes it longer. This is one of the best value wines in Spain, and 2016 is not an exception. Perhaps it won’t be the longest-lived vintage, but it’s drinking beautifully and gives a lot of pleasure. It’s somehow reminiscent of 2013 or 2014, perhaps a tad warmer. There were a whopping 318,000 bottles and 3,000 magnums, which means they had 1,568 barrels of this wine.”
Josh Raynolds 92 points “Deep, lurid ruby. Powerful, mineral- and spice-accented cherry and dark berry aromas, along with a suave violet nuance that builds in the glass. Sweet and penetrating on the palate, offering intense black raspberry, cherry-cola and spicecake flavors and a deeper suggestion of candied licorice. Shows excellent clarity and mineral cut on a long, subtle tannic finish that leaves a bitter cherry note behind.”
Wine Spectator 92 points “This savory red offers notes of espresso, black olive and graphite framing a core of black cherry and licorice. Fine-grained tannins and fresh acidity keep this balanced. Harmonious and graceful. Drink now through 2024. 27,000 cases made.”
James Suckling 92 points “In spite of all the blackberry and violet aromas, this wine has great herbal freshness and enormous vitality on the sleek and positively dry palate, with a long and crisp mineral finish. About as food-flexible as any red wine gets.”
Azienda Agricola La Torre Rosso di Montalcino, Tuscany, Tuscany 2016 750ML ($39.95) $33 special
Grapelive 95 points “The 2016 is going to be legendary in Tuscany. We are seeing the top wines already getting unbelievably good press, but there are also some killer deals on lesser known wines, especially wines like this gorgeous deep fruited and elegant La Torre Rosso di Montalcino. [Such wines] are incredible and offer a wonderful value for much less than their Brunello version. Lighter on its feet than the Brunello(s) the Rosso [shows] style and grace, it shows a complex array of flavors and a sense of never-ending length with a beautiful rose petal perfume and exotic spices. This La Torre has, what it is cliche to say, Burgundy class in the glass with ripe tannins and a gorgeous garnet/ruby hue that seduces the senses with layers of black cherry, raspberry, strawberry and plum fruits to begin on its open and generous palate with gains structure with air as well as highlighting the background elements, mineral notes and light earthiness. Additionally there is classic anise, fine cigar tobacco wrapper, sandalwood and lingering dried flowers and cranberry/currant, making for a lovely Sangiovese wine that gets even better with food, bringing out more depth and fruit intensity. There is almost nothing to fault here and the detailing and mouth feel is exceptional in this remarkable Rosso di Montalcino. This is a wine that needs to be taken out of the “Baby Brunello” box; it is really next level stuff on its own. The La Torre winery was founded not all that long ago by Italian standards back in 1976 by Giuseppe Ananìa, who purchased the La Torre estate from the famous Ciacci family of Montalcino. Now Luigi Anania, Giuseppe’s son, is the present owner and producer of the wines of La Torre. The estate is located in the commune of La Sesta, approximately 8 kilometers south of Montalcino, which is in the highest altitude section of the Brunello appellation. La Torre make four main wines, all from organic vines: Brunello di Montalcino (with a Riserva in the best years as well), Rosso di Montalcino, with the Brunello and Rosso being exclusively Sangiovese Grosso (Brunello Clone) by law, as well as a Rosso di Toscano and a Rosso di Toscano “Ampelio” which have touches of Ciliegiolo and Alicante added to a mainline of Sangiovese. The wines are all made from all grapes that are de-stemmed prior to fermentations and only indigenous yeasts are used before an extended 20 maceration on the skins. Ferments are done in a combination of steel and oak with an 18 month elevage being in large oak casks of French origin, with only about 10% of the ultimate cuvée being aged in small French barrels. Made for more early drinking pleasure and a sublime vintage really show here and I absolute love this stuff. Judging it purely on its intent and delivery it is fantastic, drink this brilliantly crafted beauty over the next 3 to 5 years.”
Benoit Dehu ‘La Rue des Noyers’, Champagne NV (2014) 750ML ($119.95) $89 special
Antonio Galloni 93+ points “Benoit Déhu NV (2014) Extra Brut Cuvée La Rue des Noyers Non-Dosé is bright, powerful and tightly wound. A wine of energy and vibrancy, the 2014 is going to need at least a few years to be at its very best. Even so, its potential today is evident. The Meunier character is pronounced, but it is the wine’s salivating minerality that gives shape, focus and cut. What a gorgeous wine this. Disgorged on August 4, 2017 with no dosage.”
Importer note “Benoit is an eighth generation vigneron that returned to the family estate after working for Bollinger. He is committed to natural farming and aims to craft unadultered, pure Pinot Meunier. He purchased this 1.7 hectare vineyard and farms it biodynamically. The results are exceptional and we are thrilled to introduce Benoit’s work to our clients. The Cuvee La Rue de Noyers, named for the walnut trees that line the parcel, is a wine that will keep you intrigued and coming back for more. Organically farmed Pinot Meunier, 1.7 hectares farmed biodynamically. A quarter of the property is worked with a horse named Violette. Vinified in oak barrels, many of which are made from trees from the forest of Fossoy. No malo, no dosage, unfined and unfiltered.”
The next best price is $99.99
Azienda Agricola Arianna Occhipinti Il Frappato Sicilia IGT, Sicily 2016 750ML ($49.95) $39 special
Ian D’Agata – Vinous 95 points “Deep red. Pungent floral aromas of red rose, quinine, cinnamon, red cherry and minerals. Then juicy and fresh, with real floral lift to the sour red cherry and dried berry flavors. Finishes long with zingy acidity. Another knockout Frappato from Arianna Occhipinti.”
Castello di Ama ‘San Lorenzo’, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2014 750ML ($59.95) $44 special
Case-12 Castello di Ama ‘San Lorenzo’, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2014 750ML ($599.95) $469 special (that’s only $39.08/bottle!)
Monica Larner-Wine Advocate 93+ points “The 2014 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione San Lorenzo flaunts its importance. It boasts confidence and an outward-looking personality that comes as a refreshing surprise. Like all Gran Selezione wines, it is released 30 months after January 1st following the harvest. That means it still has a few more months to go before it hits the market. This expression of Sangiovese shows depth and power with ripe fruit tones of cherry and forest berry. Like many of the other high profile wines I preview-tasted from the difficult 2014 vintage, I am delighted and surprised by the elegant and soft nature of the mature tannins. The wine’s finish offers bright freshness with layers of dark fruit, wet earth and forest floor.”
Wine Enthusiast 93 points “Aromas of exotic spice, pipe tobacco, woodland berry and a whiff of French oak take center stage on this fragrant, elegant red. The racy, ethereal palate delivers tart red cherry, tart pomegranate, cinnamon and vanilla framed in taut fine-grained tannins and vibrant acidity. Drink 2019–2026.”
James Suckling 93 points “This is extremely tangy with plenty of chocolate and lemon character and hints of cedar, too. Medium body, bright acidity and chocolatey aftertaste. Very refined and well-crafted for a 2014. Drink now.”