Somewhere in the last 10 years we started to forget about Bordeaux. Maybe it was the advent and rush of the natural wine movement and ‘new school’ wines , or perhaps it was the increase in perceived luxury following the legendary 09′ and 10′ vintages. It could even have been a slow shift in perception towards the idea that Bordeaux is less of a wine to drink and more of a collectible to be boasted about. The likely truth is that all of these factors have influenced the new and old American wine enthusiast to overlook some of the greatest wine made on the planet.
That is nowhere near an exaggeration. In case you haven’t noticed, Cabernet, Merlot, and the usual Bordeaux blend suspects are capable of making absolutely stunning wines all over the world. Before there was Napa Valley Cabernet, there was Bordeaux. Before there was Chilean red blend, there was Bordeaux. Before there was Mendoza Malbec, there was Bordeaux. We could go on and on. How massive though is the irony that the global palate can be so proud of the native wines which have built the identity of their regions, and so dismissive of the wines which provided the very blueprint of success?
The reality is that there’s a lot of very good wine competing for our attention all of time, and Bordeaux has not always done itself a favor on the pricing side in making some of its best wines broadly accessible. This is changing FAST. The level of winemaking coming out Bordeaux at the moment is of such a high quality, and at such a pervasive level, that the big appellations and smaller appellations alike are bursting at the seams with fantastic wine. Funny as it is to think, consumers used to lean on an 1855 classification of the top estates to inform their purchasing decisions. There are now hundreds of estates and wines that don’t exist on that list but offer amazing drinking experiences for wonderfully low prices.
Bordeaux is as much the blueprint for a globally successful wine style as it is a beautiful region with exceptional terroir. Nowhere else does Cabernet and Merlot so consistently produce wines of deep minerality, complex bouquet, and delicious fruit. These are wines built for the holiday table; perfect fits for pairing with intimate family moments over dinner, and the late night conversations and memory sharing that come after.
Below we’re going to recommend several curated Bordeauxs across three different price spectrums: Excellent Value, Mid-range Beauties, and Best-in-Class. These wines will be perfect to share with friends and family over your holiday celebrations, and they’ll be treasures to enjoy long after.
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EXCELLENT VALUE
Chateau Les Carmes Haut-Brion ‘Le C des Carmes’, Pessac-Leognan 2020 750ml $33 special, 29 bottles available
Decanter 94 points “Smells rich with perfumed blackcurrants. Clean and crisp on the palate, a smooth and silky texture but with crunchy and bright, almost sharp fruit – dark cherries, plums and figs edged with a chalky, minerality. Clearly charming, this is succulent, supple and so easy to like with excellent drinkability. Refreshing and totally moreish.”
Wine Advocate 94 points “Bottled after 24 months’ élevage, much of which took place in large foudres, the 2020 Le C des Carmes Haut-Brion offers up aromas of dark berries, plums and spices complemented by hints of rose petal and licorice. Medium to full-bodied, supple and pillowy, with an ample core of fruit framed by melting tannins, it’s a suave and charming blend of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot.”
Chateau Capbern, Saint-Estephe 2018 750ml $36 special, 15 bottles available
Jeb Dunnuck 94 points “The 2018 Château Capbern checks in as a Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated blend that includes 37% Merlot and 1% Petit Verdot, all of which was brought up in 60% new barrels. It has a deep, dark, earthy, classic Saint-Estèphe bouquet that gives up lots of cassis and almost blue fruits as well as ample chocolate, damp earth, and leafy herb-like aromas and flavors. With a full-bodied, rich, opulent mouthfeel, loads of sumptuous dark fruits, sweet tannins, and a great finish, this brilliant 2018 brings lots of fruit and opulence, yet stays weightless and balanced, with solid underlying structure. A hidden gem in the vintage, this is every bit as good as the 2016, and it’s going to shine for two decades or more.”
Wine Enthusiast 94 points “This richly structured wine is layered with dense black fruits and serious tannins. A big wine in every sense, it is concentrated and juicy. The wine is made by the team from nearby classed growth Château Calon Ségur. Drink from 2026. -Roger Voss”
l’Hetre, Castillon Cotes de Bordeaux 2016 750ml $29.5 special, 36+ bottles available
Jancis Robinson “L’Hêtre 2016 Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux is the first release of this wine from the organically farmed estate perched at 100 m on the end of the St-Philippe d’Aiguilhe limestone plateau, the highest point in Bordeaux…‘Rich in blackcurrant fruit with a savoury dark glow to make it more than just fruit. Just a touch of smoky char even though the oak is well in the background, a seductive fruit sweetness. On the palate, this is beautifully balanced, the alcohol perfectly integrated in the tannic structure and fruit core with a fresh tang that runs through the middle. There’s a cool fluidity to it even with its depth and length. Fine, dry, lingering and savoury aftertaste. Impressive first vintage with a promising future in the bottle. I opened this on a Sunday evening and it was still tasting fresh and vibrant four days later. This is a very classy wine, and the tannins tell you everything: fine, definite, building in the mouth but in perfect balance with the fruit and freshness. Blue-blooded Castillon. Catch it while you can.'”
MID-RANGE BEAUTIES
Le Crock St Estephe 2016 750ml $41.90 special, 11 bottles available
Wine Enthusiast 94 points “Cellar Sellection. Under the same management as Château Léoville-Poyferré in Saint-Julien, this estate belongs to the Cuvelier family. With its structured Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine is made to age. Big tannins and concentrated fruits are full and dense.”
Decanter 94 points “Clearly standing out in this line-up, an impressive, well-crafted wine with great tannic hold; a wine you would be thrilled to own. Cassis, bilberry, blackberry, hawthorn, black chocolate, slate. Great texture and balance, and full of St-Estèphe signature. Great stuff.”
La Reserve de Leoville Barton, Saint-Julien 2019 750ml $47.50 special, 24 bottles available
Jane Anson 92 points “Attractive, with personality and texture to the loganberry and blackberry fruit. The muscular tannins have juice running through them, and overall this has plenty of lift and tension while remaining appealingly unfussy.”
Decanter 92 points “Shiny glossy fruit on the nose, floral and pretty. Bright pink in the glass full of blackcurrant and cherry aromas. Nice plushness on the palate with chewy tannins that have a touch of dryness/chalkiness and drive of fresh red fruit, with some creamy, chalky aspects coming in on the finish. Nicely balanced. It’s balanced and fresh, light and playful. Not showy, but easy. Touch of cedar wood on the edges at the finish. Drinking Window 2023 – 2030.”
Chateau Rouget, Pomerol 2019 750ml $59 special, 36+ bottles available
James Suckling 95 points “This is soft and chewy with very round tannins and lots of blackberry, toasted-oak, walnut and earth character. Traditional with a new vibe. Full-bodied, layered and juicy. Some tobacco, stem and chocolate, too. Better after 2026.”
Decanter 95 points “Ripe and dried red berry fruit on the nose, raisins, freshly picked raspberries and blueberries. Some wonderful potpourri perfume too. Great grip and hold from the start – this is tannic and they coat the mouth but with such a bright and juicy aspect too. Real energy here, a lighter if you can say that (as still 14.5%) style, with focus on delicate red fruits, perfume and dark chocolate. RIch to start with, muscular with a bold immediate taste then the delicacy comes in. A wonderful aerial style that is all in balance but still needs some time. It will reward cellaring. Great potential here and quality winemaking on show. Tasted twice.”
Vinous 94 points “The 2019 Rouget is bold, plush and racy to the core. Raspberry jam, spice, kirsch, leather, cedar and sweet pipe tobacco all meld together effortlessly. This sumptuous, flamboyant Pomerol captures all of the natural intensity of the year.”
Chateau d’Issan, Margaux 2020 750ml $75 special, 23 bottles available
Decanter 96 points “Wonderfully intense on the nose, so ripe and concentrated with some toasted oak aromas. Supple and vibrant on the palate, the fruit is clean and crisp with tannins that are fine but firm, just giving the expression some tension and linearity. Cinnamon and clove edge the bright blackcurrant and black cherry fruit with lovely acidity. This is plush, and firm at the same time, clean and clear, fragrant and ripe. Lots going on here with bitter dark chocolate too. It’s all happening. Needs time to relax but this is wonderfully nuanced and really quite captivating. Grippy and refreshing, leaves a lingering impression.
Vinous 95 points “The 2020 d’Issan is a gorgeous, wonderfully complete wine. Blueberry, sage, dried herbs, menthol, lavender and licorice are all beautifully knit together. Medium in body, with notable depth and freshness, Issan is all class. Silky tannins round out the long, vibrant finish. The 2020 d’Issan is the first vintage that incorporates Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec to compliment the traditional Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot in the blend.”
BEST-IN-CLASS
Chateau Malescot-St-Exupery, Margaux 2018 750ml $89 special, 14 bottles available
Vinous 95 points “The 2018 Malescot Saint Exupéry is every bit as compelling as it was from barrel. Powerful and incisive, the 2018 is a driving, potent Margaux that dazzles from the first taste. Iron, smoke, new leather, licorice, pressed rose petal and cedar all open in the glass, conveying tremendous nuance and a ton of character.”
Wine Advocate 95 points “The medium to deep garnet-purple colored 2018 Malescot St. Exupery leaps from the glass with expressive scents of baked blackberries, Morello cherries and boysenberries with hints of blackcurrant cordial, dark chocolate, licorice and tilled soil. The medium to full-bodied palate has impressive intensity without heaviness, delivering mouth-coating black fruits and a firm, grainy texture, finishing with a refreshing earthy lift.”
Chateau Pavie Macquin, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru 2016 750ml $119 special, 14 bottles availableJeb Dunnuck 98+ points “Possibly the finest vintage of this cuvée to date, the 2016 Château Pavie Macquin comes from a cooler, later terroir on the upper plateau and checks in as 82% Merlot, 16% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Cabernet Sauvignon aged in 50% new oak. This deep, inky-colored effort boasts a rock star bouquet of blackcurrants, black cherries, white truffle, graphite, and spice. Deep, rich, and powerful on the palate, yet also balanced, elegant, and seamless, with ultra-fine tannins, this seamless beauty needs a decade of cellaring and will keep for 4-5 decades.”
Vinous 98 points “The 2016 Pavie Macquin is a total stunner. Rich, lush and inviting, the 2016 is a drop-dead gorgeous beauty. Sweet red cherry, plum, rose petal, lavender and mint are all given an extra kick of allure by silky tannins that caress the palate from start to finish. There is a level of precision and nuance here that is simply breathtaking. The purity of the fruit is just mind-boggling.”
James Suckling 97 points “This is very linear and driven with a precise and driven center palate. Full-bodied, tight and compact. Energetic and well formed. Give it at least five years. Try from 2024.”
Wine Advocate 96 points “Deep garnet-purple in color, the 2016 Pavie Macquin charges out of the glass with gregarious black cherries, warm blackberries and wild blueberries scents followed up by loads of red roses, baking spices, cedar chest and unsmoked cigars sparks plus a waft of wild thyme. Medium to full-bodied, the palate is an exercise in poise, revealing layer upon layer of cherries and berries flavors and tons of savory nuances, framed by firm yet exquisitely ripe tannins, finishing very long.”
Chateau Canon, Saint-Emilion 2010 750ml $179 special, 18 bottles available
Wine Advocate 96+ points “[Reviewed in 2020] Deep garnet colored, the 2010 Canon features wonderfully expressive notes of dried mulberries, stewed plums and baked black cherries with hints of mocha, bay leaves and fallen leaves. Full-bodied, opulent and super spicy, it has a plush texture with a racy line supporting the hedonic fruit, finishing with jaw-dropping persistence.”
Decanter 96 points “[Reviewed in 2020] You know you are on the Right Bank limestone plateau with this wine not by the fruit character, which is savoury, dark and concentrated, but by the juicy finish, which remains a little austere even after 10 years. After 15 minutes in the glass it opens up to be gloriously appetising and sapid (a word that is used much more frequently in French, and that sums up why limestone soils can transmit such appetising, drinkable and mouth watering flavours and textures, and why wines of this type work so well with food). At this stage it is the 2009 that delivers a readier-to-drink wine, but this is subtle and complex and has pulsating sense of purpose. Drinking Window 2022 – 2042.”
Chateau Rauzan-Segla, Margaux 2016 750ml $159 special, 19 bottles available
Jeb Dunnuck 98 points “I continue to love the 2016 Rauzan-Ségla, a thrillingly complete, flawlessly balanced, and borderline perfect Margaux that should be snatched up by readers. Notes of cassis, graphite, tobacco leaf, and earth all give way to a full-bodied effort that has building tannins, no hard edges, and a level of purity and elegance that’s just about off the charts. Given its purity and balance, it’s accessible today, but it will be best with 4-5 years of bottle age and keep for 3-4 decades.”
Wine Advocate 97 points “Deep garnet-purple colored, the 2016 Rauzan-Ségla drifts effortlessly from the glass with fragrant rose hip tea, candied violets and chocolate box scents over a core of fresh blackcurrants and black cherry compote plus wafts of tobacco and dusty soil. Medium to full-bodied, it delivers a great mid-palate of softly textured black and blue fruits with loads of floral nuances and a refreshing lift on the finish. The blend this year is 68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot, harvested between September 20th and October 15th at an average yield of 45 hectoliters per hectare. It was aged for 18 months in French oak, 60% new. The alcohol is 13.5%, and the pH is 3.6.”
Vinous 97 points “The 2016 Rauzan-Ségla has an intense bouquet, one of the most perfumed that I encountered during my round of tastings. Violets infuse the ebullient black fruit, and traces of pencil lead emerge with time. The palate is medium-bodied, very pure and supple, displaying wonderful balance and a satiny texture that belongs in a lingerie shop. This is an utterly seductive Margaux, one of the finest in recent years as this estate continues its upsurge in quality. Few 2016s will dole out such inhibited pleasure.”
Chateau Pichon Lalande, Pauillac 2018 750ml $279 special, 26 bottles available
#2 WINE SPECTATOR – WINE OF THE YEAR IN 2021
Jeb Dunnuck 98+ points “The 2018 Château Pichon-Longueville Comtesse De Lalande is a monster of a wine with an almost Château Latour-like stature and structure, offering deep, backward, slightly reductive notes of blackcurrants, crushed stone, scorched earth, lead pencil shavings, and tobacco leaf. Based largely on Cabernet Sauvignon mixed with 23% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Petit Verdot, it’s full-bodied, concentrated, and powerful on the palate, with masses of tannins, beautiful mid-palate density, and a great finish. As I’ve commented previously, the up-front, sexy style of the past (due to the larger Merlot content, I believe) has been replaced by a more regal, at times austere profile. Nevertheless, it’s still its own wine and very Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande in style. This 2018 is going to need 5-7 years of bottle age and will evolve for 40+ years.”
Wine Spectator 98 points “Offers a deep well of dark currant, blackberry paste and plum preserves fruit that needs time to unwind fully, as it’s shrouded in warm earth, tobacco, singed cedar, sweet bay leaf and savory notes. A ramrod of graphite adds to the strident, structured feel. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Best from 2030 through 2050. 13,000 cases made. — JM”
Wine Enthusiast 98 points “Cellar Selection. This famous estate at the southern end of Pauillac has produced a powerful wine. Packed blackberry fruits, laced with acidity, are just starting out on a long journey along with the tannins. The wine’s elegance is beautifully preserved within the structure. With considerable potential, the wine should not be drunk before 2027. -Roger Voss”
Wine Advocate 97+ points “The 2018 Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande is a blend of 71% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot with a pH of 3.85, an IPT (total polyphenol index) of 87 and 14% alcohol. The grand vin represents 50% of the crop this year. Deep garnet-purple colored, it charges out of the gate with bold scents of baked plums, ripe blackcurrants and wild blueberries, followed by hints of cedar chest, pencil lead, bouquet garni and charcuterie, plus a waft of lilacs. The medium-bodied palate is beautifully crafted with its seamless freshness and firm, grainy tannins supporting the compelling, finely knit black fruits and savory nuances, finishing on a lingering fragrant-earth note. This will need a good 5 years to come around and should easily cellar for another 30 years or more.”